this video has been a lifesaver! I too was wanting to install a paper towel holder in the middle of my garage floor but was unsure of what anchors I should use to properly hold it down. Thanks very much
I don't know for a fact if it was your product, but I used a product like yours that I purchased at one of the popular home improvement centers in my area. I drilled the holes with the drill bits you provided and then I couldn't get the screws to hold firmly. I tried the product in concrete and concrete block walls.
What I've found that works better than canned air is a baby nasal aspirator. It never runs out of air and has enough pressure to evacuate particulate in the holes. In addition, tossing in a 23-24 awg wire when you set the tapcom really helps reinforce a positive lock into the structure. Just a couple tips from real world use.
FYI to any adults who may be reading this who can carry on a conversation on UA-cam without childishly insulting people: I found the secret to using these is CANNED AIR! Get a can of compressed air at Walmart (computer section) or wherever. After you drill your hole (make sure it's a little deeper than you need) put the straw deep in the hole and blow out the concrete dust (preferably not into your open eyes and mouth; lean away!). Before I was told to do this more than half of my Tapcons were snapping off. After I started using canned air, I'm batting 1.000. And to be fair, Bob Carlisle tells you to thoroughly clean out the hole in this video. I was using the drill bit to clean it out, and that just doesn't work, despite any dust you might see being drawn out by the turning bit. There is still A LOT of dust in the hole, and as soon as the screw hits that dust, it will bind and lock so tight you'll snap the hardened steel in the screw. Blow all the dust out thoroughly before drilling and it will work like a charm.
If you go the compressed air route, I highly suggest wearing a dust mask. Silica in the lungs is a bad thing. Using compressed air to blow the dust around will make it easier to inhale it. Better off using a shop vac with a good filter on it.
Hi, Bob. We are building a workshop set of shelves against a concrete foundational wall in our lower basement. After consulting several dealers (e.g. Home Depot) we chose Tapcon screws. They have been very frustrating to use! We only needed 30 screws in the first part of the project and have only managed to set 8 flush with the8' - 2" x 3"s we are using as supports. Here is the problem (and thank you for this video, it should be most helpful). We are using 1/4" Tapcon screws with the Phillips head. This is not our preferred head as it tends to "strip" easily, but the "better" square (or Robertson head as it is called in Canada) was not available. In hindsight it would have been better to use the hex heads, but we want the screws to flush with the wood. The 3/16" drill bits (i.e. that come with the screws) are simply not "wide" enough! We tried a 1/4" drill bit, but of course that left some screws "spinning" around! One commenter asked about using some kind of "epoxy" in the holes, presumably to fix this. Is that possible? (Incidentally, we drilled each hole at least 1/4" deeper than the length of the screws, which are 3 and 1/4", and vacuumed out each hole, and used a hammer drill.) We also used concrete adhesive, which has been of tremendous value and we recommend to any and all DIYs. Unfortunately this made our option for the "correct" size of drill bit, IOHO, impossible to find. With a couple of the 8' - 2" x 3"s we further drilled the holes with a 7/32" drill bit and presto, the screws went in like a dream (with that satisfying "pull" in as they set). So, we think you should recommend and supply a 7/32" masonry drill bit with the 1/4" Tapcon screws. We cannot find this size of masonry bit (needs to be longer than the standard drill bit for wood, plastic and steel, which comes with many "sets"). I will be sending you some of our stripped screws and another copy of this letter (once I find your mailing address). The screws are strong and seem great once they are properly "set", and they are not cheap. Best of all they are Made in the U.S.A. (Here in Canada we have had a lot of problems with offshore supplies!) I can also send you pictures of our project if you like. These shelves need to be very strong as they will be holding rocks and minerals! One more thing, by your own admission (i.e. in this video) the size of the drill bit for the 1/4" screws (i.e. 3/16") is not appropriate. You recommend a 5/32" drill bit for the 3/16" screws (that is a difference of 1/32"). From our experience, that should work great. However, using a 3/16" drill bit (which are so readily available, even in multiple quantities/packages), for a 1/4" screw gives a difference of 1/16", not the 1/32" we think would work better. 1/4" minus 7/32" gives 1/32". How about that? (And it really doesn't matter to us how many professionals out there have had no problems with the 3/16" drill bit, if it doesn't work for us, it may be frustrating many of your other customers.) Thank you for you time and consideration. Greg Shea (Lake Cowichan, BC, Canada) P.S. A local major concrete supplier in Victoria said the 3/16" drill bit is "right". He does not have any 7/32" bits, although he said he used to. Why is that no one has this size? They have the 5/32", even the 11/64" drill bit. Very frustrating, but we will keep looking and checking online!
The proper diameter bit for a 1/4" tapcon is 3/16" The bit must meet ANSI standards and used in a hammer drill that is set in the hammer and rotation mode.
was this comment even read in full before responding? I realize this is from almost 10 years ago but I still run into this issue on various jobs which is why I often use a ramset. I’ll definitely try using a 7/32” drill bit for the 1/4” tapcons in the future and hopefully I have better luck than using a 3/16” and/or 1/4” drill bit and failing to secure the fastener. Luckily most of my experience with tapcons deal with setting walls to basement floors and at times I can insert liquid nails in the holes with the tapcons and apply pressure to the bottom plate with longer studs in order to prevent the bottom plate from moving around but still I shouldn’t have to do that!
Hey Bob. You might save some folks some time and headache by emphasizing a little more on the method of actually screwing the fasteners into concrete. I can guarantee failure if I use my my impact driver for installing. I can guarantee success (almost) by using my drill driver and setting clutch to 50% (and then increase if needed). I also use the low speed setting.. For those of you suburban craftsmen who don't get it, think about it differently. If you push it in too fast, there will be no happiness. If you take your time and insert it slowly, there will be joy.
Good simple video and explanation. After watching I looked at the thumbs down and smiled - even in a simple company sanctioned product video demonstration there's never a shortage of thumbs down.
Their is a British saying, which describes the “Thumbs Down” folk quite succinctly- “You Can’t Teach Pork”! I myself found the video, to be exactly what I needed to know, to attach wire mesh, (6mm X 6mm holes), to my block house, to act as a barrier, to prevent little furry creatures, from joining our family.
Well I followed the instructions here...used a 3/16 bit screwed in my 1/4 Tapcon..its loose in the hole...worthless....thats worth a thumbs down in my book.
I used 3" Tapcons to mount a 2X8 Support Band around the inside of My Metal Garage so I could jack it up and move it to the back of my yard. Was told that it could not move it with out being taken apart and re assembled! My method worked well
Trying to find info with no luck. This video tells me it is physically possible, but not sure the idea is soundly engineered. We are looking at installing an 8 foot long table, 15 inches wide, with a 4.5 inch epoxy strip in the middle. The legs will be metal pipe several feet high, one at either end and one in the middle. All three in centered in the 15 inch width of the table. The legs will be mounted to the concrete basement floor. 1) Will these tapcon screws (4 at the base of each leg) be enough to keep the table solidly in place even if an adult human bumped into it? 2) Will the epoxy be strong enough on table and not split or shatter?
Good simple video. Needed these to get through concrete on the other side of some paneling in my furnished basement. Using simple wood screws to hang pictures was never an issue, but when it came to hanging a 70x25 shelf for a sheet metal bumper above my futon, I needed a little more insurance than that haha.
Yeah, I used a hammer drill and the right size bit, My wife actually bought some of these screws and again I' don't know if it was your product and she was going to use them on stucco with out any luck.
02:05 in the hole also make sure that you do 02:08 not over torque the screw ... Are there suggested torque settings, or is one suppose to determine by feel by over-torquing samples to determine the breaking point?
almost impossible to get a screws to hold, even using the bit that came with the screws. No hammer drill so no chance for me. Don't know what to do once the hole is stripped or too big to hold the screw and it's the only place you can fasten it ... like for a toilet flange into a concrete sub floor. Don't know what I'll do now, but I can bet lots of people have had all kinds of frustrations trying to fasten to concrete.
Trying to figure out size/diam. of a bunch of Tapcon screws I got (no packaging) out of an old tool chest. Outer diameter of threaded part is 5/16". Diameter of unthreaded shaft is 1/4". Is this considered a 5/16" or a 1/4" screw?
The 3/16 drill bit to be used on Tapcon screws is worthless… 3 new bits and never got a hole in the brick. Used a 20v Dewalt hammer drill. Had to quit and find a masonry bit to drill the hole.
Beware the included bit. The one In my pkg was too big so the screws free wheeled. I was really pi**ed. Even the recommended pilot hole on the pkg is too big. Hammer drilling seems to enlarge holes beyond the bit size so when you put in the screw, it doesn’t hold properly-if at all.
@gregvancom they will not work in stucco. I would get a hold of the company you purchased them from and see if you can figure out if the proplom is the screw or the base material.
@gregvancom There are many reasons why a concrete screw may not work in a particular application as they are not the answer for all applications. Did you use a hammer drill for driling the hole? Bit size and anchor size is critical and sometimes the base material is not suitable for tapping threads into.
Hello, I have to hang a 10 pound oval mirror in our newly-renovated bathroom. The wall on which I have to hang the mirror is a porcelain-tiled wall. These tiles are 12"x24" tiles made in Italy and extremely hard. Behind the tiles is drywall. What thickness and length of Tapcon screw do you recommend? It is understood that I'm making the hole in the tile and NOT the in the grout. Thanks
Well, we still maintain that the 3/16" drill bit is too small, at least in western North America where the concrete is "stronger". A 7/32" masonry drill bit works great, just as a 5/32" bit works for the 3/16" screws, a difference of 1/32" for both. This gives a big enough hole for the screws, but also allows them to "bite" properly and be sunk to the depth needed (i.e. flush). Anyone having trouble with the 3/16" drill bit should try the (very difficult to find) 7/32" one. We could not find one at the main supplier of all things concrete on Vancouver Island (although they used to carry them). However, at the local Restore (part of Habitat For Humanity still supported by the amazing Pres. Carter, we did manage to find one for 50¢! Greg Shea (Lake Cowichan)
I under stand you particular situation and it may work for you. But since 1979 2.3 billion 1/4' tapcon screws have been sold all packaged with 3/16" bit. If you care to care to contact the manufacture get a hold of them at www.tapcons.com. Good luck with your project and thank you for your feedback.
I am trying to anchor plastic lawn edging to my walkway so that I can then have a material to anchor my gopher wire to. I have removed 6 inches of dirt to expose the 4 inches of concrete that makes up my walkway slab. Once I anchor the material, affix my wire, back fill, and lay sod, these anchors will be under a few inches of dirt. My questions are, will these anchors hold up underground? What material are they made of?
This product works about half the time; the other half of the time, the screw breaks into two pieces and YOU are screwed. Even perfectly cleaning out the bored hole perfectly, and applying a slow steady torque, the screw would rather break off than seat. It appears to me that the screw is imported and made of very soft steel.
Ps, great screws,but drill a little deeper than needed because it is hard to clean the hole,if you have a can of compressed air it will help, usually for cleaning electronic equipment, also be careful as they snap easily.
The problem I have is when tying to use the concrete drill bit to make the pilot hole, I use a rotary hammer drill but the drill bits all get damaged and I can't drill the pilot hole. The concrete is Quickcrete. I have dulled 6 drill bits so far! What gives?!?!??? The drill bits all say it's for hollow tile blocks, brick and concrete!
Hello, I'd like to ask you a question. I have a marble slab at the base of my front stairs on which I have to mount a post lantern. The slab is 14" x 14" x 2" thick. This is rough marble, not polished. The metal post base for the lantern has 4 screw holes which are 1/4". Is it advisable to drill Tapcon screws into marble?
absolutely not !!! i think you want to stud THROUGH it, not anchor any bolt product INTO it. (drill through the soft stone and use a shouldered bolt or sleeve to take most of the load. Above all don't try this crap product. I have long experience in construction and have worked with some of the best rock climbers bolting redheads into rock. Less than an hour ago, after carefully following the instruction videos, i broke off 2 bolts in a row trying to simply hold down a threshold. Contact local artists or countertop guys for your project. someone that handles it daily. good luck.
Wouldn't you get more strength if you used plastic inserts with these types of screws? Wouldn't that hold the screw in a lot tighter? Or is this for applications where strength isn't so important? It just seems so easy to use an insert and that insert would conceivably fill in any dead air space. The screw is hard and concrete is hard. That can't be a good combination surely. (I am very inexperienced in construction obviously.)
Love these tapcons for solid concrete brick and masonry. However, you absolutely need a HAMMER DRILL. If you take more than about 10 seconds to drill the hole in these materials, you don't have a hammer drill and likely have opened up the hole and it won't work. (been there done that) Yes you have to be deep enough to hand fasten tightly. I can see how reefing on them will pop them out. (A rotary hammer drill will also work)
Are Tapcon screws a one-time-use product? Meaning if I screw it in, then back the screw out for whatever reason that screw can then be re-used? Or do I have to use a brand new Tapcon?
tapcon screws can be re installed in a different hole, they should not be backed out and then put back in the same hole. There is also a limit to the number of times they can be used in a different hole.
This is not the product to use on concrete filled cinder block walls. Used the 1/2" x 6" Tapcon Bolts and only 1'out of 6 bolts held. Used a brand new MAKITA 1" hammer drill with new Bosch SDS 1/2" bit, made sure I drilled hole straight and all precautions, including blowing out all the dust from the hole. Used a socket wrench and slowly hand tightened and no luck. It's too bad because I've had better results with the smaller Tapcon screws.
@campbowwowlic each application is different and we are not engineers and are unable to specify specific anchors for specfic applications. It should work, try it out.
Only thing Home Depot had. Expect to put a toothpick in every hole. Expect to use 3x the screws you need as they are phillips and will strip on you almost every hole. Most frustrating product I've used in years.
@@curtis1951 happer drill is the way to go for masonry work. besides a normal drill taking ages to drill one hole, you can damage the bearings in the regular drill if used as it was not designed for such loading (ul need to bear down real hard to get any where at all) also ul need to spin that carbide bit in thee for a very long time under high loads, that will shorten the life of the bit. and lastly using a regular drill will tend to yield an over sized hole which can result in insecure fastening.
@@curtis1951 A good grade regular drill will work just fine. Hammer drills are for extreme size fastner drilling, etc. I've used the same drill for hundreds of concrete holes as well as the same for steel (offroad rig). The bits take a beating over time, not the drill.
@campbowwowlic Yes, you can attach anything that can be held by a screw to concrete, brick, or block with these. But since you're using backer board on a floor, you're probably tiling, right? So your next concern is whether the screw will resist the corrosion from the mortar. I guess you could cover them in silicone. And are there even countersinking heads on any of these? That's another concern as you don't want the heads sticking up, unless you use a very thick layer of mortar.
A vacuum is not a good way to evacuate a small, tubular hole because there is no air flow motion generated inside the hole. Prove this to yourself by first using this vacuum method followed by using compressed air “Duster” to blow out the hole. Lots more debris comes out when the Duster is sprayed into the hole.
Well I just used my brand new hammer drill with a brand new SDS 3/16 bit...drill liked butter through the cement block screwed in my 1/4 Tapcon and its completely loose in the hole...completely worthless.
I want to hang a 64lb cabinet to a cinderblock wall (no studs available) will these tapcon screws be able to handle the job. cabinet = 63lbs stuff inside = 45lbs = 108lbs total
my house is sitting on a foundation it has slid to the very edge we have been told we need to anchor it to the slad better do you know anything about how we do that
that's not a hammer drill. what you show and what you need is a rotary hammer also my screws are 1/2 inch diameter by 6 inches. the package says use 1/2 inch drill bit. however they strip out going in. I am very unhappy
I want to attach 2x4 s to the sides of brick piers under my deck, so that I can install lattice in the area between the piers by nailing the lattice to the 2x4s. To drill the bricks and secure the 2x4s to the piers: a) what type and size of drill bit should I use? b) should I drill the holes in the middle of the bricks or in the mortar joints? c) how deep should I drill the holes? d) What type and size of screws should I use to secure the 2x4s to the piers? Thanks for anyone's input here!
i know its been a while since you asked the question but i will share what i have found. first of all i work in IT, i am mechanically inclined but i have zero "handyman" experience when it comes to almost anything about homes, garages and working in concrete. i drilled 7 holes with a regular drill. i used water to cool the bit and clean the hole as i was drilling, i ran a garden hose to my location. i struggled greatly with those 7 holes and i was using "masonry" bits. i used at least 1 drill bit her hole, sometimes it would take 2 brand new drill bits per hole, so i went and bought about 10 bits at $2.50 a piece. anyways i have about 30 holes to drill in total and i was drilling in American concrete from the 1950s and it had rocks in the mixture. anyways about the 8th hole, which was the most stubborn i had come across, i decided to go buy a $200 hammer drill for about $40 at a pawn shop and i was able to drill the rest of the holes one handed with no water and on the same drill bit. anyways i can confirm the hammer drill makes this job significantly easier.
These screws don’t need anchors and go in brick or concrete after drilling a pilot hole. That’s their selling point find some that can be drilled with a socket bit because a Phillips will strip.
@TheMrmagnetophon Then it's a good thing luck is not required! A bit of skill goes a long way with them however. There's only two reasons they won't work well for you: 1. bad concrete or 2) improper use. If your basement floor consists of bad concrete you may want to consider replacing it.
tapcon sucks…..I have tried using them well over a dozen times using the kit supplied drill, and every single time I would strip the holes out or the screw would strip the threads…..I DID NOT OVER-TORQUE……just a slight tightening turn would strip it out…..give me the plastic anchors every time now.
Well Bob , they don't work very well...They break off in slabs and they don't bite well in block. They work pretty well in brick. I would never ever recommend using the philips because your philips bit is going to slip out before the screw goes all the way in..
The 3/16" tapcon has a capacity of 145lbs or 66kg. The 1/4" has a capacity of 285lbs or 130kg, so I don't think it will be good for what you are doing.
+Alex Abuan what are you hanging curtains from concrete blocks ?? Why would you possibly need these for hanging curtains. get a curtain rod and install it to the window frame.
Home Depot recommended this screws to install a flange to the floor on my bathroom. I started drilling the concrete with the 3/16" drill and it seems like the drill bit is not much good to cut concrete. The guy on this advertisement talk flat and it seems like he is frozen . He does not move even his hand. I will give a try using this product and will let you folks know how this is good
Man I’m just trying to repair my toilet flange and bought a regular drill because I need it for other small house projects. Just 2 concrete screws. Got me the right drill bit for it too. Didn’t buy the hammer drill because I know I’m not going to us it a whole lot. Someone please reassure me on just using a regular drill with the right bit for just 2 or 4 concrete screws 🤣
Bought 2 1/8 inch masonry bits. First one become impossible after half of one hole. Second drill bit and goes very easily. Second drill bit was labeled for hammer drills but was using normal drill. Drilled into brick and concrete pavers.
I don't think the vaccum is good enough, you need to get in with canned air and blow it out properly. I use an electronic computer duster with a thin nozzle to get in and blow the hole out. It works like a charm!
this video has been a lifesaver! I too was wanting to install a paper towel holder in the middle of my garage floor but was unsure of what anchors I should use to properly hold it down. Thanks very much
LMAO !!! You too !
Hilarious. I thought that was what that was.
Hilarious
Amazing! It’s helped me so much, no, really I need help!
Youre killing me smalls. Lmfao, this made my day
I never knew it would be so easy to install a paper towel holder on the floor. I've put that job off for far too long.
I dig the epic sarcasm!
I installed a toilet paper holder on my ceiling!
Hahahah😂
@@tyson9419 hmmm. Is it hard to reach?
Sorry to be that guy, but that’s a speaker mount 😅
I don't know for a fact if it was your product, but I used a product like yours that I purchased at one of the popular home improvement centers in my area. I drilled the holes with the drill bits you provided and then I couldn't get the screws to hold firmly. I tried the product in concrete and concrete block walls.
What I've found that works better than canned air is a baby nasal aspirator. It never runs out of air and has enough pressure to evacuate particulate in the holes. In addition, tossing in a 23-24 awg wire when you set the tapcom really helps reinforce a positive lock into the structure. Just a couple tips from real world use.
FYI to any adults who may be reading this who can carry on a conversation on UA-cam without childishly insulting people: I found the secret to using these is CANNED AIR! Get a can of compressed air at Walmart (computer section) or wherever. After you drill your hole (make sure it's a little deeper than you need) put the straw deep in the hole and blow out the concrete dust (preferably not into your open eyes and mouth; lean away!). Before I was told to do this more than half of my Tapcons were snapping off. After I started using canned air, I'm batting 1.000. And to be fair, Bob Carlisle tells you to thoroughly clean out the hole in this video. I was using the drill bit to clean it out, and that just doesn't work, despite any dust you might see being drawn out by the turning bit. There is still A LOT of dust in the hole, and as soon as the screw hits that dust, it will bind and lock so tight you'll snap the hardened steel in the screw. Blow all the dust out thoroughly before drilling and it will work like a charm.
well said, no troll responses so far lol..................... good luck
Thanks. Experience.
Don't tempt me,!!!! LoL
If you go the compressed air route, I highly suggest wearing a dust mask. Silica in the lungs is a bad thing. Using compressed air to blow the dust around will make it easier to inhale it. Better off using a shop vac with a good filter on it.
Fuck it if it strips it strips and hope the rest hold it down
I've used Tapcons to attach plywood over my windows and glass doors for many a hurricane, and never had any problems or failures!
Hi, Bob.
We are building a workshop set of shelves against a concrete foundational wall in our lower basement.
After consulting several dealers (e.g. Home Depot) we chose Tapcon screws.
They have been very frustrating to use!
We only needed 30 screws in the first part of the project and have only managed to set 8 flush with the8' - 2" x 3"s we are using as supports.
Here is the problem (and thank you for this video, it should be most helpful).
We are using 1/4" Tapcon screws with the Phillips head. This is not our preferred head as it tends to "strip" easily, but the "better" square (or Robertson head as it is called in Canada) was not available. In hindsight it would have been better to use the hex heads, but we want the screws to flush with the wood.
The 3/16" drill bits (i.e. that come with the screws) are simply not "wide" enough!
We tried a 1/4" drill bit, but of course that left some screws "spinning" around!
One commenter asked about using some kind of "epoxy" in the holes, presumably to fix this. Is that possible?
(Incidentally, we drilled each hole at least 1/4" deeper than the length of the screws, which are 3 and 1/4", and vacuumed out each hole, and used a hammer drill.)
We also used concrete adhesive, which has been of tremendous value and we recommend to any and all DIYs.
Unfortunately this made our option for the "correct" size of drill bit, IOHO, impossible to find.
With a couple of the 8' - 2" x 3"s we further drilled the holes with a 7/32" drill bit and
presto, the screws went in like a dream (with that satisfying "pull" in as they set).
So, we think you should recommend and supply a 7/32" masonry drill bit with the 1/4" Tapcon screws.
We cannot find this size of masonry bit (needs to be longer than the standard drill bit for wood, plastic and steel, which comes with many "sets").
I will be sending you some of our stripped screws and another copy of this letter (once I find your mailing address). The screws are strong and seem great once they are properly "set", and they are not cheap. Best of all they are Made in the U.S.A. (Here in Canada we have had a lot of problems with offshore supplies!)
I can also send you pictures of our project if you like. These shelves need to be
very strong as they will be holding rocks and minerals!
One more thing, by your own admission (i.e. in this video) the size of the drill bit for the 1/4" screws (i.e. 3/16") is not appropriate. You recommend a 5/32" drill bit for the 3/16" screws (that is a difference of 1/32"). From our experience, that should work great. However, using a 3/16" drill bit (which are so readily available, even in multiple quantities/packages), for a 1/4" screw gives a difference of 1/16", not the 1/32" we think would work better. 1/4" minus 7/32" gives 1/32". How about that?
(And it really doesn't matter to us how many professionals out there have had no problems with the 3/16" drill bit, if it doesn't work for us, it may be frustrating many of your other customers.)
Thank you for you time and consideration.
Greg Shea (Lake Cowichan, BC, Canada)
P.S. A local major concrete supplier in Victoria said the 3/16" drill bit is "right".
He does not have any 7/32" bits, although he said he used to. Why is that
no one has this size? They have the 5/32", even the 11/64" drill bit. Very
frustrating, but we will keep looking and checking online!
The proper diameter bit for a 1/4" tapcon is 3/16" The bit must meet ANSI standards and used in a hammer drill that is set in the hammer and rotation mode.
was this comment even read in full before responding? I realize this is from almost 10 years ago but I still run into this issue on various jobs which is why I often use a ramset. I’ll definitely try using a 7/32” drill bit for the 1/4” tapcons in the future and hopefully I have better luck than using a 3/16” and/or 1/4” drill bit and failing to secure the fastener.
Luckily most of my experience with tapcons deal with setting walls to basement floors and at times I can insert liquid nails in the holes with the tapcons and apply pressure to the bottom plate with longer studs in order to prevent the bottom plate from moving around but still I shouldn’t have to do that!
Hey Bob. You might save some folks some time and headache by emphasizing a little more on the method of actually screwing the fasteners into concrete. I can guarantee failure if I use my my impact driver for installing. I can guarantee success (almost) by using my drill driver and setting clutch to 50% (and then increase if needed). I also use the low speed setting.. For those of you suburban craftsmen who don't get it, think about it differently. If you push it in too fast, there will be no happiness. If you take your time and insert it slowly, there will be joy.
thanks for this info, saw someone saying they used a hand ratchet, nice to know i can still use a power tool but correctly...!
..as a newbie, this is the tip I was searching for 👍😎✊
These screws changed my life. Thank you.
A good screw usually does
@@danbrown6941 you're most brilliant!🤣👏
@@Inchonseoul didn’t remember this, for sure was drunk 😂
Good simple video and explanation. After watching I looked at the thumbs down and smiled - even in a simple company sanctioned product video demonstration there's never a shortage of thumbs down.
It's amazing how they find the time. Can you image what happens to them when something goes wrong? That makes me smile. They must totally lose it.
It's that 240p quality homie
Im gay
Their is a British saying, which describes the “Thumbs Down” folk quite succinctly- “You Can’t Teach Pork”! I myself found the video, to be exactly what I needed to know, to attach wire mesh, (6mm X 6mm holes), to my block house, to act as a barrier, to prevent little furry creatures, from joining our family.
Well I followed the instructions here...used a 3/16 bit screwed in my 1/4 Tapcon..its loose in the hole...worthless....thats worth a thumbs down in my book.
I used 3" Tapcons to mount a 2X8 Support Band around the inside of My Metal Garage so I could jack it up and move it to the back of my yard. Was told that it could not move it with out being taken apart and re assembled! My method worked well
So, you do not need adhesive when driving the screws into the concrete? Seems it would be helpful to provide permanence.
Am I the only one wondering why we're attaching a paper towel roll holder to the floor here?
Trying to find info with no luck. This video tells me it is physically possible, but not sure the idea is soundly engineered. We are looking at installing an 8 foot long table, 15 inches wide, with a 4.5 inch epoxy strip in the middle. The legs will be metal pipe several feet high, one at either end and one in the middle. All three in centered in the 15 inch width of the table. The legs will be mounted to the concrete basement floor. 1) Will these tapcon screws (4 at the base of each leg) be enough to keep the table solidly in place even if an adult human bumped into it? 2) Will the epoxy be strong enough on table and not split or shatter?
After watching this video, I feel confident in my ability to use Tapcon concrete products.
Thanks Confast!
Good simple video. Needed these to get through concrete on the other side of some paneling in my furnished basement. Using simple wood screws to hang pictures was never an issue, but when it came to hanging a 70x25 shelf for a sheet metal bumper above my futon, I needed a little more insurance than that haha.
Yeah, I used a hammer drill and the right size bit, My wife actually bought some of these screws and again I' don't know if it was your product and she was going to use them on stucco with out any luck.
No luck here either
Thank you. I purchased some Tapcon screws but haven't gotten around to using them. Are they suitable for fastening door hinges to concrete blocks?
Have you found your answer? How did your activity went? I'm planning something to this
02:05 in the hole also make sure that you do
02:08 not over torque the screw ...
Are there suggested torque settings, or is one suppose to determine by feel by over-torquing samples to determine the breaking point?
almost impossible to get a screws to hold, even using the bit that came with the screws. No hammer drill so no chance for me. Don't know what to do once the hole is stripped or too big to hold the screw and it's the only place you can fasten it ... like for a toilet flange into a concrete sub floor. Don't know what I'll do now, but I can bet lots of people have had all kinds of frustrations trying to fasten to concrete.
Either go up a size fastener, or fill with 2 part epoxy.
Can I use a regular drill to the make the hole if I don’t have a hammer drill? I have the correct drill bit.
Trying to figure out size/diam. of a bunch of Tapcon screws I got (no packaging) out of an old tool chest. Outer diameter of threaded part is 5/16". Diameter of unthreaded shaft is 1/4". Is this considered a 5/16" or a 1/4" screw?
The 3/16 drill bit to be used on Tapcon screws is worthless… 3 new bits and never got a hole in the brick.
Used a 20v Dewalt hammer drill. Had to quit and find a masonry bit to drill the hole.
Where can I get a paper towel holder to screw to my floor like the one used in the video?
I actually lol'ed
LMAO. Just realized that's what he mounted.
Guess if you fall and can't get up you will have towels to stop the bleeding
I used 4 to install my pool slide today, worked well.
Beware the included bit. The one In my pkg was too big so the screws free wheeled. I was really pi**ed. Even the recommended pilot hole on the pkg is too big. Hammer drilling seems to enlarge holes beyond the bit size so when you put in the screw, it doesn’t hold properly-if at all.
Thats my experience as well. 3/16 bit and my 1/4 inch Tapcon screws are loose in the hole...complete BS.
@gregvancom they will not work in stucco. I would get a hold of the company you purchased them from and see if you can figure out if the proplom is the screw or the base material.
@gregvancom There are many reasons why a concrete screw may not work in a particular application as they are not the answer for all applications. Did you use a hammer drill for driling the hole? Bit size and anchor size is critical and sometimes the base material is not suitable for tapping threads into.
Hello, I have to hang a 10 pound oval mirror in our newly-renovated bathroom. The wall on which I have to hang the mirror is a porcelain-tiled wall. These tiles are 12"x24" tiles made in Italy and extremely hard. Behind the tiles is drywall.
What thickness and length of Tapcon screw do you recommend? It is understood that
I'm making the hole in the tile and NOT the in the grout.
Thanks
This man just oozes charisma
Lol..
I just drilled a 3/16 hole for my 1/4 inch tapcons...the fasteners are loose in the hole...the hole is too big.
Well, we still maintain that the 3/16" drill bit is too small, at least in western North America where the concrete is "stronger". A 7/32" masonry drill bit works great, just as a 5/32" bit works for the 3/16" screws, a difference of 1/32" for both. This gives a big enough hole for the screws, but also allows them to "bite" properly and be sunk to the depth needed (i.e. flush).
Anyone having trouble with the 3/16" drill bit should try the (very difficult to find) 7/32" one. We could not find one at the main supplier of all things concrete on Vancouver Island (although they used to carry them). However, at the local Restore (part of Habitat For Humanity still supported by the amazing Pres. Carter,
we did manage to find one for 50¢!
Greg Shea (Lake Cowichan)
I under stand you particular situation and it may work for you. But since 1979 2.3 billion 1/4' tapcon screws have been sold all packaged with 3/16" bit. If you care to care to contact the manufacture get a hold of them at www.tapcons.com. Good luck with your project and thank you for your feedback.
Wrong the hole is too big....1/4 inch screws are loose in the 3/16 hole...such BS
What size of driver bit for tap concrete screws for 5-1/6 and also the drill bit for it? Nice videos. and nice explain brain.
I am trying to anchor plastic lawn edging to my walkway so that I can then have a material to anchor my gopher wire to. I have removed 6 inches of dirt to expose the 4 inches of concrete that makes up my walkway slab. Once I anchor the material, affix my wire, back fill, and lay sod, these anchors will be under a few inches of dirt. My questions are, will these anchors hold up underground? What material are they made of?
if they are stainless steel they will outlive you...mild steel/galv metal will last quite a while...good luck
I so thought you were screwing a gopher to a fence
Can I use these to fasten my Grill to my patio? That is all I need to know.
You'll get more pleasure if you screw your grill on your patio.
@@Steel_the_Free don't you mean girl?
This product works about half the time; the other half of the time, the screw breaks into two pieces and YOU are screwed. Even perfectly cleaning out the bored hole perfectly, and applying a slow steady torque, the screw would rather break off than seat. It appears to me that the screw is imported and made of very soft steel.
Ps, great screws,but drill a little deeper than needed because it is hard to clean the hole,if you have a can of compressed air it will help, usually for cleaning electronic equipment, also be careful as they snap easily.
Do you leave the drill on hammer 🔨 when you put the screw in?
The problem I have is when tying to use the concrete drill bit to make the pilot hole, I use a rotary hammer drill but the drill bits all get damaged and I can't drill the pilot hole. The concrete is Quickcrete. I have dulled 6 drill bits so far! What gives?!?!??? The drill bits all say it's for hollow tile blocks, brick and concrete!
Hello, I'd like to ask you a question. I have a marble slab at the base of my front stairs on which I have to mount a post lantern. The slab is 14" x 14" x 2" thick.
This is rough marble, not polished. The metal post base for the lantern has 4 screw holes which are 1/4". Is it advisable to drill Tapcon screws into marble?
Jnjb NJ nnbv
Tuakama Taumauri vacrtsudhe dast switaswe, ywtars!
absolutely not !!! i think you want to stud THROUGH it, not anchor any bolt product INTO it. (drill through the soft stone and use a shouldered bolt or sleeve to take most of the load. Above all don't try this crap product. I have long experience in construction and have worked with some of the best rock climbers bolting redheads into rock. Less than an hour ago, after carefully following the instruction videos, i broke off 2 bolts in a row trying to simply hold down a threshold. Contact local artists or countertop guys for your project. someone that handles it daily. good luck.
2 years ago.... haaaa i hope he wasnt waiting for MY reply haaa
Duct tape
Doesn't hurt to smile 😊
Wouldn't you get more strength if you used plastic inserts with these types of screws? Wouldn't that hold the screw in a lot tighter? Or is this for applications where strength isn't so important? It just seems so easy to use an insert and that insert would conceivably fill in any dead air space. The screw is hard and concrete is hard. That can't be a good combination surely. (I am very inexperienced in construction obviously.)
Yes you’re correct
Love these tapcons for solid concrete brick and masonry.
However, you absolutely need a HAMMER DRILL.
If you take more than about 10 seconds to drill the hole in these materials,
you don't have a hammer drill and likely have opened up the hole and it won't work.
(been there done that)
Yes you have to be deep enough to hand fasten tightly.
I can see how reefing on them will pop them out.
(A rotary hammer drill will also work)
However? That's why he says "a hammer drill must be used..."
M Mathews I have a standard Makita 18V drill with the hammer selection on it. Will this be sufficient?
@@gmmay70 but he wasn't as convincing, M Mathews was
Maybe to a deaf person.
Are Tapcon screws a one-time-use product?
Meaning if I screw it in, then back the screw out for whatever reason that screw can then be re-used? Or do I have to use a brand new Tapcon?
tapcon screws can be re installed in a different hole, they should not be backed out and then put back in the same hole. There is also a limit to the number of times they can be used in a different hole.
run bro you will have frigging holes all over the place the screws don't work like they should
I have to hang a few cabinets to firewall, 11/4 inch till it hits the bloke wall. 18" wide cab. firing strips every 23" or so What do I do
This is not the product to use on concrete filled cinder block walls. Used the 1/2" x 6" Tapcon Bolts and only 1'out of 6 bolts held. Used a brand new MAKITA 1" hammer drill with new Bosch SDS 1/2" bit, made sure I drilled hole straight and all precautions, including blowing out all the dust from the hole. Used a socket wrench and slowly hand tightened and no luck. It's too bad because I've had better results with the smaller Tapcon screws.
@campbowwowlic each application is different and we are not engineers and are unable to specify specific anchors for specfic applications. It should work, try it out.
Only thing Home Depot had. Expect to put a toothpick in every hole. Expect to use 3x the screws you need as they are phillips and will strip on you almost every hole. Most frustrating product I've used in years.
Us the tapcons with the hex head and drive with an open bit holder or nut driver. Much better than a philips.
It was a braket for a small wall speaker, we used it just to show somthing being attached.
Do you have to use a hammer drill or can I use a standard drill? I only gotta do a couple holes.
@@curtis1951 happer drill is the way to go for masonry work.
besides a normal drill taking ages to drill one hole, you can damage the bearings in the regular drill if used as it was not designed for such loading (ul need to bear down real hard to get any where at all)
also ul need to spin that carbide bit in thee for a very long time under high loads, that will shorten the life of the bit. and lastly using a regular drill will tend to yield an over sized hole which can result in insecure fastening.
@@thesage1096
That's what I figured. Thanks 👍
@@curtis1951 you are welcome man
@@curtis1951 A good grade regular drill will work just fine. Hammer drills are for extreme size fastner drilling, etc. I've used the same drill for hundreds of concrete holes as well as the same for steel (offroad rig). The bits take a beating over time, not the drill.
@campbowwowlic Yes, you can attach anything that can be held by a screw to concrete, brick, or block with these. But since you're using backer board on a floor, you're probably tiling, right? So your next concern is whether the screw will resist the corrosion from the mortar. I guess you could cover them in silicone. And are there even countersinking heads on any of these? That's another concern as you don't want the heads sticking up, unless you use a very thick layer of mortar.
Do Tapcon screws rust?
A vacuum is not a good way to evacuate a small, tubular hole because there is no air flow motion generated inside the hole. Prove this to yourself by first using this vacuum method followed by using compressed air “Duster” to blow out the hole. Lots more debris comes out when the Duster is sprayed into the hole.
I've used tapcons to anchor countless materials and objects to varied masonry walls and ceilings I've never had a problem ever.
Well I just used my brand new hammer drill with a brand new SDS 3/16 bit...drill liked butter through the cement block screwed in my 1/4 Tapcon and its completely loose in the hole...completely worthless.
I want to hang a 64lb cabinet to a cinderblock wall (no studs available) will these tapcon screws be able to handle the job. cabinet = 63lbs
stuff inside = 45lbs = 108lbs total
i'm no expert but i'm guessing the anchor will out perform the cabinet material
Set on hammer drill not hammer as a lot of SDS have a hammer/chip setting
Thank You I wasn’t for sure how to use the concrete screws I bought
Now the right size bit comes with the screws. About time i say.
I don't think I candle handle a guy with this little emotion.
Ramset package states use 5/32 drill bit, drill it to a depth of 10mm.
Don't use anchors?
what size tapcon would i use in a 1/4 in hole
my house is sitting on a foundation
it has slid to the very edge we have been told we need to anchor it to the slad better do you know anything about how we do that
Superglue is the answer.
@@hopeofthewicked idiot
Duct tape fixes everything
any special drill bit for concrete?
@KRASIMIRpro I'd say yes you can, if you use the right ones and enough of them and the surface you're connecting to is secure enough.
I haven't had the best luck with these.
very professional and helpful
that's not a hammer drill. what you show and what you need is a rotary hammer also my screws are 1/2 inch diameter by 6 inches. the package says use 1/2 inch drill bit. however they strip out going in. I am very unhappy
I want to attach 2x4 s to the sides of brick piers under my deck, so that I can install lattice in the area between the piers by nailing the lattice to the 2x4s. To drill the bricks and secure the 2x4s to the piers:
a) what type and size of drill bit should I use?
b) should I drill the holes in the middle of the bricks or in the mortar joints?
c) how deep should I drill the holes?
d) What type and size of screws should I use to secure the 2x4s to the piers?
Thanks for anyone's input here!
Get somebody to do it for you.
Can I use regular drill? I do not want to spend money on hammer drill because I do not use it much.
You must use a hammer drill, preferably an SDS bit version. You can rent one at many DIY places like home depot for cheap.
Thanks.
i know its been a while since you asked the question but i will share what i have found. first of all i work in IT, i am mechanically inclined but i have zero "handyman" experience when it comes to almost anything about homes, garages and working in concrete. i drilled 7 holes with a regular drill. i used water to cool the bit and clean the hole as i was drilling, i ran a garden hose to my location. i struggled greatly with those 7 holes and i was using "masonry" bits. i used at least 1 drill bit her hole, sometimes it would take 2 brand new drill bits per hole, so i went and bought about 10 bits at $2.50 a piece. anyways i have about 30 holes to drill in total and i was drilling in American concrete from the 1950s and it had rocks in the mixture. anyways about the 8th hole, which was the most stubborn i had come across, i decided to go buy a $200 hammer drill for about $40 at a pawn shop and i was able to drill the rest of the holes one handed with no water and on the same drill bit. anyways i can confirm the hammer drill makes this job significantly easier.
Is the smallest size tapcom screw 3/16? what to do if I need smaller diameter?
Can you drill a larger hole into the piece you are trying to mount to the wall?
Ok I see how they go on what is best way to remove. A hand screwdriver was too muck work. I have plywood take off windows after Hurricane Irma
I used these during my solo climb of Half-Dome.
Always use respiratory equipment when dealing with dust.
can these be used on cast stone?
what are you talking about? i use these all the time to fasten things to brick and concrete.
Almost to miss the demonstration.. phones now and it was too fast.. I never seen the jackhammer Jack in the wall.. that's a bit screwed up
Hello how do I determine what size anchors to use..
Throw 1 overboard. If your boat keeps floating away you need a bigger anchor
These screws don’t need anchors and go in brick or concrete after drilling a pilot hole. That’s their selling point find some that can be drilled with a socket bit because a Phillips will strip.
@TheMrmagnetophon Then it's a good thing luck is not required! A bit of skill goes a long way with them however. There's only two reasons they won't work well for you: 1. bad concrete or 2) improper use. If your basement floor consists of bad concrete you may want to consider replacing it.
tapcon sucks…..I have tried using them well over a dozen times using the kit supplied drill, and every single time I would strip the holes out or the screw would strip the threads…..I DID NOT OVER-TORQUE……just a slight tightening turn would strip it out…..give me the plastic anchors every time now.
+pdoggy10inch Buy better self drill screws
say it to me face
BUY SELF DRILLING SCREWS AND HAMMER DRILL MFER. ONLY MAKITA, NO AMERICAN CRAP
say it to my face you bitch you
i want to install a iron rail on my brick steps will these work? my father inlaw said it would just break the brick because the brick is old
Use the Redhead brand fastners instead.
Can a 13/64 hole be used for a 1/4 screw?
Well Bob , they don't work very well...They break off in slabs and they don't bite well in block. They work pretty well in brick. I would never ever recommend using the philips because your philips bit is going to slip out before the screw goes all the way in..
The 3/16" tapcon has a capacity of 145lbs or 66kg. The 1/4" has a capacity of 285lbs or 130kg, so I don't think it will be good for what you are doing.
I HATE these fasteners! Just had 4 in a row snap off while installing them. They can’t handle any torque.
I'm hanging blackout curtains. Will these hold?
+Alex Abuan what are you hanging curtains from concrete blocks ?? Why would you possibly need these for hanging curtains.
get a curtain rod and install it to the window frame.
+Chris Shaw the screws prob won't hold the curtains up LOL
Smfh. I wonder how this ended lol
Also make sure that you do not over torque the screw.
Nice video, thanks!
Home Depot recommended this screws to install a flange to the floor on my bathroom.
I started drilling the concrete with the 3/16" drill and it seems like the drill bit is not much good to cut concrete.
The guy on this advertisement talk flat and it seems like he is frozen . He does not move even his hand.
I will give a try using this product and will let you folks know how this is good
sounds like you arent using a hammer drill.
Do you know what a hammer drill is?
Nice. Here I was using plastic anchors smh. Gonna give these a try
Cheap method,3 1/4 framing nail and a piece of solid copper wire, leftover from 14/2 or use tie wire
Go on...
Beautiful video.
Indeed. I put it on 144p for crystal clarity.
Man I’m just trying to repair my toilet flange and bought a regular drill because I need it for other small house projects.
Just 2 concrete screws. Got me the right drill bit for it too. Didn’t buy the hammer drill because I know I’m not going to us it a whole lot.
Someone please reassure me on just using a regular drill with the right bit for just 2 or 4 concrete screws 🤣
Bought 2 1/8 inch masonry bits. First one become impossible after half of one hole. Second drill bit and goes very easily. Second drill bit was labeled for hammer drills but was using normal drill. Drilled into brick and concrete pavers.
they are used for that type of application by many different people.
Thank you jerry, I think you are right. Thanks for the reply.
I don't think the vaccum is good enough, you need to get in with canned air and blow it out properly. I use an electronic computer duster with a thin nozzle to get in and blow the hole out. It works like a charm!
The 5/16" tapcon requires a 1/4" bit.
This is the info I needed before I left the hardware store...
can i use this to make 2x4 wood walls
Tapcon screw would not be recommended for this application. The base material must be masonry, not dry wall.
Bob Carlisle where the hell do you see drywall anywhere in this video?
I appreciate it thanks 🙏
Honestly, if you have a decent cordless drill, you can use it.