Thank you so much ! I have an Inverter from Kero, with constant false CO2 alarm. Put it apart several times, switched from several brands of fuel, nothing solved the problem, exept...recalibrating it with the paperclip. Simple as that !!! Works like new, so happy !
Thanks for this. The detector panel on mine was made in Sweden. I took it apart and followed the instructions. The paper clip didn't work. I put it in the oven at 60 degrees and left it for an hour. Then I put it back into the heater, with the paper clip connected. Tried it again, first with the paper clip and then without. Bingo. It now works like new. Many thanks from Carcassonne in France.
Thanks for this video mate, followed every step and after not working properly for months finally works non stop. Saved us getting a new one. Thanks again for the clear and easy instructions!!
Brilliant video, thanks for taking the trouble to record this. I have exactly the same heater, with the identical problem and didn't want to throw it out when I knew it was just the CO meter which was dicky. It annoys me endlessly the amount of low quality junk imported from China which ends up in landfill after 5 minutes use - your video has helped me to avoid this. Well until the next component goes phut !! Brilliant !!!
Thank you so much. Followed instructions ,,, cleaned filters , got rid of old fuel , still not working co2 coming up . Bought paper clip . Working fine now
muchas gracias desde España, me ha sido de gran ayuda. He hecho lo que indica en el video y ha funcionado!! Thank you very much from Spain, it has been a great help to me. I have done what is indicated in the video and it has worked !!
Hello all, After a drying session and just a recalibration (S1 as explained) the inverter has restarded like a brand new one ! Thanks for the video ;) Bonjour à tous, Après avoir fait secher la sonde sur un radiateur et une simple recalibration (pontage temporaire S1 haut-gauche sur S1 bas -gauche), l'appareil a redémarré comme un neuf ! Merci pour cette vidéo ;)
Super, même s'il est vrai que la traduction est moyenne ;) Pour les Français, je vous explique ce qu'il faut faire. Votre poêle affiche CO2, pas de soucis, enlevé le capot, déclipsé le module CO2 en bas à droite, faire un pont avec un trombone sur les trous du S1, allumer est compter 10 clignotement (perso j'ai en laisser 12), mettre sur off, déponter le trombonne, rallumer. A ce moment là votre capteur CO2 est recalibrer. si cela n'as pas fonctionner, deux solutions, soit le trombone n'as pas fait contact entre les deux borne des trous du S1, soit il faut passer le module au four à 60° (ce qui permet de refaire les micro-soudures comme en informatique) et recommencer l'étape pont. Si cela ne fonctionne pas, vous pouvez faire un pont entre les files bleu et gris mais attention car vous n'aurez plus de detecteur de CO2 = risque de mort. Personnellement la première a fonctionner pour moi. Encore merci, mon poêle fonctionne à nouveau !!! Good job Engine Tuning ;)
Thanks for the tip, it has worked for me. I went on the web site of the manufacturer of the CO2 unit but they do not list this type. Maybe they just make it specifically for this heater manufacturer.
Great news. I remember visiting that site (are they Swedish or something like that?... I forget). However, I remember learning nothing from their site.
yeay! Who said girls can't do technics? i just fixed my inverters false co detection by recalibrating just as you said! it works!! a very warm thank you Mr Engine Tuning! i ll check on how to clean its filter as well :)
New issue for me, and you seem to be the only person who knows your way round these heaters. wife said she turned it on, it ignited and ran for a short while then stopped, and the screen was blank (as if no power). I went to have a look, the heater appears dead (socket checked and was ok) and the heater casing was noticeably very hot! I’m waiting for it to cool down and have another look, but I’m guessing it went haywire and overheated, tripping something?? Any ideas gratefully appreciated. 🙏
Check the mother board, where the mains supply is transformed - there should be a fuse, and there may be more than one. If the fuses are good, and the panel remains blank, then an electric component has failed. Re the heat ... check the air intake grill, and make sure everything is clean. Also ensure that it is not too close to a wall etc. Good luck :)
No, not specifically. I presume that it's moisture that causes the flicker of orange. Add 0.5% Acetone to each fresh tank of fuel. This breaks the surface tension of liquids, including water, and all liquid fuels. This enables the fuel to be better atomised (rather than droplets), ensuring superior combustion, and greater heat output. You can even turn the heater down, and still get blue flames. Acetone saves you a substantial sum of money, and likely eliminates 'cleaning strip-downs', or certainly prolongs the period between services.
thanks, i was confused a bit there - was wondering why it had a co2 sensor when my inverter has a CO sensor. Don't those things have a service life anyways? so at some point its gonna need bypassing and use a stand alone sensor to monitor
Thanks for these videos there very helpful, however my one is completely shot, the motherboard has blown, do you know where i could get new motherboard in the UK Thanks 👍
hello there , been running one of these for the 2 previous winters , just started it again for this year and seems to stink bad on shut down , worse than before its always smelt a bit but is there anything i should be looking at ?
@@EngineTuning right i thought i would update you , rods both clean but i polished them up anyway , one small penny size burnt looking scab in the pot , it just fell off no need to scrape - seems to have fixed the smells thank you
Dear Sir, Thank you für explanations. My kanzai mostly does not react when I press the start button - the start sequence does not start. Do you have any ideas? Thank you
It sounds like 'lack of power supply'. If you can use a multimeter, you first need to check fuses, then mains power in at the transformer, and the out voltage. Good luck! :)
Thanks for the comment Tech Genie. I've just given this a search, and I'm getting results on gas sensors that use blinking light. This does correspond to what can be seen on the faulty gas sensor in the video.
I don't know a parts store. You need to analyse what is happening. Has the problem just appeared, or has it gradually gotten worse? Is it 'clicking' (creating a spark)? Try cleaning the sparker.
hI, Thanks for the great inverter/laser paraffin videos. I have a Zibro/Toyotomi lc32 - been great with no maintenance for 4 years, apart from the co2 fault e11, which comes on earlier and earlier, and now after a couple of minutes. Today, with your video guides, i stripped the thing down, cleaned the burner and flame sensor (which were'nt dirty/carbonised at all). Worst was the gunge in the internal fuel tank, horrible slimy black gunge under the oil which i poured out. Located the co2 sensor - it's on the back, lower rh side, under a plastic cover, slightly different to yours in this video. Got pictures but don't know how to post them yet. The wires to it are white, black, red blue. There's no s1 and s2 marked, so can't reset it as you described. Any ideas how i can reset this particular sensor? Failing that, any idea which two wires to short to effectively disable the sensor and get rid of the self-shutdown due to lack or ventilation (e 11)? Many thanks. The house is getting cold!
Hi Jay I can't help with the specifics :( They are all sort of the same, so you need to settle down to the task, and take a view on the problem. Half the problem is that you had hope that I could direct you. Once that hope is dispelled, then you are free ... it's the best place to be ;) :)
@@EngineTuning Well thanks anyhow. I think a better place for me would be if I had a solution to my particular co2 sensor problem! It's not that I haven't tried - been on this for 6 months now. For some reason, the lc32 model doesn't figure in any youtube videos, certainly to the servicing level or circuit diagrams. It's so frustrating - the co2 module (and the whole heater) seems to be extremely similar to yours, but has a different 'arch' and no s1, s2 'holes'. Just one further question if I may - if I randomly play around shorting the co2 interface wires (in the hope to stop it reporting an erroneous error) is it likely I'd damage the electronics (or myself)? I assume it's all low voltage. If anyone reading has solved this for the lc32 (as sold by amazon,ebay etc, plenty must own one i would think) i'd appreciate some help.
@@jayswaff4120 It is highly likely that the cable positions will be the same as on the video. Examine the circuits and compare to mine at say ua-cam.com/video/djHI69lIcxo/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/djHI69lIcxo/v-deo.html follow the cables. If it is as mine, there will be 3 wires. These will be live, return, and signal - red, blue, grey in unknown order Connecting the grey to neutral drops the signal to 0V from a higher voltage, OR blue is the live (unusual but hey) and lifts the signal from 0V to a higher voltage. Ie. it is a binary switch - high voltage or zero voltage is seen on the motherboard, causing it to stop the system, or allow it to run. From this, you can appreciate the need to meter (DC volts) the cables to earth, when disconnected from the sensor. The most important is to find the cable that is live (powering the sensor) Then you can connect the other two cables. Good luck, and don't rush it :)
@@EngineTuning Well problem solved, mainly through trial and error. So here's the co2 solution for a lcdx320 (which is very similar to the lc32 it was sold to me as) which i hope may help others. The co2 sensor is connected to the motherboard by a 6 pin connector with 4 wires connected. Disconnect the connector (and don't reconnect it later) and short out the two right hand pins. This takes away the co2 error and 'ventilate' message and the beeping for this error. All trial and error, so no idea of any other consequences, but it's be going fine for a week now. Thanks for the pointers engine tuning. I think even without a co2 sensor, the heater is still safe due to the flame monitoring, but nevertheless, I'm careful to well ventilate the room.
@@jayswaff4120 That is truly great news Jay :) What you have shown is that 'knowing it can be done' needs to be matched to a firm decision 'to accept the challenge', followed by 'thoughtful action'. Clearly, in technical matters, some basic understanding is required (in order to know where to start). Once you have that basic understanding, one's good brain can figure it out, if it is allowed the time to do so. This is why you can't rush these problems ;) Hahaha! What a victory! ... and you can justifiably walk taller now. This work will continue to pay dividends throughout your life... Victory is sweet :)
Hi, my Ruby sre 300 which is almost identical to the one in your video and has a problem in that when I start in normal 'auto' mode in fires up then switches off after a few seconds with the alarm sound and showing the error - E1 or E2. To get it to start and keep going I have to press the MIN button on the power select before it fires up and only then does it work. I have stripped the machine and cleaned everything including fresh fuel. Any thoughts on what the problem might be? Thanks.
Hi Ian. Just to confirm ... you have cleaned the unit as per playlist : ua-cam.com/play/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa.html In particular: ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/tKpzPCLnhuw/v-deo.html The error codes indicate contaminated fuel or flame rod problem. It is feasible there could have been water build up in the fixed fuel reservoir. The flame rod itself could be failing. If you can get the heater to start ... I would buy a can of highest grade fuel (C1) - sold in containers often with a picture of an indoor portable heater (ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html). Run the heater for a few hours at its maximum temperature. This high grade fuel will help dissolve any older sticky residues, and its increased volatility will create a hotter combustion chamber (which in itself can be self-cleaning). Make sure that the room is well ventilated. In this way, the heater may resolve its problems. Good luck! Let us know how you got on ;)
@@EngineTuning Hi, Thanks for the quick reply. I have watched the playlist and followed your instruction. I made sure everything was spotless but the error appears when starting from cold. Also, if I try and increase the temperature after the heater has been run for some time occasionally the machine cuts off as it tries to increase the heat output. Is there a temperature sensor that needs investigating? Thanks again.
If you have cleaned the combustion chamber and flame rod, and you are using highly refined fuel ... normally all problems are solved (I think, in all cases reported here). It is possible that the flame rod is failing, or the temp sensor, but we are in a grey area. Honestly, it is difficult to say what the problem might be.
Hi I have been watching your videos regarding the paraffin heaters with great interest. I had a power failure and several of my heaters that were running at the time now refuse even to show the temperature or any other signs of life. I have checked the fuses, they are fine, I can not find a wiring diagram on line and I am at a loss to know how to proceed. Can you offer any help. Thanks
That sounds like very bad news Anthony. The fact is that we live our lives believing that everything is under strict control. However, many elements have lesser degrees of control. Electrical supply is in that latter bracket. Fuse designers do their best, and certainly, some countries have better electrical infrastructure than others. The problem may be due to 'a perfect storm' of circumstances. A power failure can create a supply spike. This can defeat conventional spike defence norms. Additional protection can be purchased quite cheaply. Most people use it for their TV's and computers, but clearly, it is also required for the heater motherboards. Fuses are rated by their reaction time. If over-current occurs, then a fast acting fuse melts before too much excess current has passed through it. If you experienced a spike of really high, yet short duration, the fuse might have got hot, but never melted. ... though further down the line, there were components more susceptible to the peak temperature (than the fuse). This is why the fuse must always be weaker than the weakest component downstream. The fuse must be the weakest link. But if too weak, it will continually trip. The designer looks at the typical scenario - say perhaps, a longer duration, lower peak. It sounds like you were unlucky, or the designers got it wrong. ... particularly as you state that more than one heater was fried. Using the same components... if one went bang... then why not the others? Boom! ... or more likely; no sound whatsoever. Simply, component failure. >>>>> You really need to provide more info. What country? How many heaters in total (in use)? How many of those were fried? Talk to the supplier. Ask if they have a spare 'test' motherboard. Swap it with one failed heater. If it works, then order new motherboards. Shit happens... Good luck :)
Hi,i have Qlima inverter kerosene heater,but i have e 03.I cleaned evrything, fuel filter,nuzlle,pump,but the problem not going.Sime times is working for 15-20min ,then they slow the burnning and getting off .Do you have same idea?
@@EngineTuning yes it's cleaned,evrythink it shinnig like brand new.I think maybe one of the tempreture sensore is wrong,i dont know what is this think on the nuzzle,are one of couple wires is for heating of nuzzle
Buy some Acetone. It is cheapest, the more you buy. In France I paid €15 for 5 litres. This is enough to treat 500 litres of fuel oil (3 cents per litre) Add 50ml of Acetone to the 5lt reservoir (1%) For this first time only ... add 5ml to the fixed reservoir, and stir it in. There is a good chance that this will fix the problem. Also, the heater will run hotter and burn less fuel - therefore it will not cost you, in fact you will save money. Run the heater at maximum temperature for a couple of hours. You can then lower the temperature to suit your needs. It may take around 4 - 6 hours to return to full normality. Thereafter, always add 50ml of Acetone for each new tank of fuel. BTW This fix has already worked for robyne smith See the comment thread here: ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html
@@EngineTuning Ok i will try,I hope to be fine,because i no have more think to do.Yesterday i change fuel pump with anothere from my second heater Corona,to test them.But its the same story,only the flayme was weakly because fuel pump from corona is smaller
I can see that you are working hard to repair your heater. Well done for making the effort. Sometimes an easy solution can be found. I think that the Acetone could be your easy solution. Good luck!
I recalibrated the cO2 card as on the video, everything works fine. My question and the following I would like to know how to test to see if the plate will activate CO2 safety if too much CO2 in the room? Thank you.j'ai recalibré la carte cO2 comme sur la vidéo,tout fonctionne correctement. Ma question et la suivante j'aimerai savoir comment tester pour savoir si la plaque activera la sécurité co2 si trop de co2 dans la pièce? Merci
before of all, congratulations for your vids! I have a Qlima and only appears error 17 , but the problem that I cant see the s* anywhere, in other words I just don't know where co2 sensor and therefore I can do nothing! do you know where I can look for it? Thanks very much for a reply!
The video ua-cam.com/video/3wsBBEMNxwU/v-deo.html shows the Qlima Laser Heater to be of similar construction to the one in the video. This means that the only space available, to mount the motherboard is to the right, in front of the portable fuel tank. On most heaters of this type, the sensor is where it is shown on the video. If you cannot find it, perhaps a new type of sensor is used.
hi I have got a ne model as well and from the mother board is going 3 cables brown, blue, and red i disconnected the plug but it still would switch off after 3min of working showing e17 error code my sensor is in the back in small plastic brown box can you please help me thank you
excellent video. only one thing, its a CO (carbon monoxide ) sensor not a co 2 (carbon dioxide ) sensor. a lot of people confuse to 2. CO will kill you. co2 wont, well not straight away anyway. you need a CO alarm not a co2 alarm.
You can buy both. The heater detector is a CO2 detector. As the fuel burns, the oxygen is consumed and CO2 levels rise ... hence the need for ventilation. :)
@@EngineTuning Yes, but the CO2 will not kill you. You are breathing CO2 out like everything that is burning. But I'm wondering if it is really a CO2 detector that is inside the heater (it can though of course),because if it is much there is probably less oxigen in the air and that could make it produce CO later, so a kind of 'pre-warning'-system?
Hey, I keep getting e1 and e9. We bought this heater around 3 years ago and it always worked just fine. This year though, it was working as usual but there was a day when power went down. Ever since then the errors I mencioned keep showing up. Do you know what that might be? Thank you in advance.
Hi Antonio. That's a very well presented question (therefore you deserve a good answer)... 1) Age of the heater 2) Overall operational history 3) History just prior to the failure 4) The failure point 5) The errors after failure I would say that for this type of heater (liquid fuel) - it just lacked 'the type of oil being used'. Have a look at this video that I made discussing the different fuel types. ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html Based upon how highly refined (is the oil) - there are 2 top home heating grades ... and then lower grades. There are also oils used in engine environments, that might have chemicals added (to help the engines to function correctly) The top grade (British Standard C1) - is the highest refined, and it burns 10% hotter (than C2 grade oil). It burns very cleanly, leaving minimal deposits ... meaning 'reduced maintenance'. You can breathe the fumes in a ventilated room. C2 grade is slightly more viscous, and leaves more physical deposits after burning. It is recommended for heaters with a chimney or flue, that vents the fumes outside. Lots of people use this grade in their portable heaters - it's cheaper, and more easily available. However, the heater will periodically require cleaning - explained here: ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html Note: C2 grade contains 10% less energy than C1 ... therefore include that, when comparing the cost of the oils. Your Problem ------------------------ Loss of power - E9 This indicates that the 'auto-shut-off' has been activated. My thinking is that the heater was knocked - causing the auto-shut-off (power off). It should be placed on a level surface. Power disconnected, then reconnected, and switched on. Try repeating this, if E9 error code is displayed. The auto-shut-off should reset itself (we hope). EO to E4 are combustion errors. Yours was working fine ... so we are confused. If the error codes persist ... you will need to dismantle the heater, and clean it. That means: The fuel filter, air filter, flame rod, sparker, combustion grill, and all dust The fuel filter video is here: ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html Please return and post your report. Thumbs up for each video, and subscribe please. Good luck! :)
Hi, I have tracked the problem to the transformer. I live in northwest France and often experience fluctuations in voltage. I'm not sure if this one was the result of lightening but it took out 5 heaters. I have found a motherboard replacement here in France at 225€, I can currently by a new heater on offer at 179€!!!! I am searching for a replacement transformer but with no luck.
Ah yes - France. Sadly, France is subject to many supply fluctuations, particularly when it rains :( The replacement m/board cost is ridiculous... sorry to hear that. Because you have lost 5 heaters... probably with the same component failing in each, you need to be certain that each heater does have the same failed component. Do remember that electrical components cost pennies. Even transformers are very cheap. This kit is knocked out by the millions. If a single specific component has failed... that specific component can be changed. Even on the motherboard, you could hope that a replacement could be soldered in place. You sometimes see this on m/boards, where a big old fashioned component is soldered in place to replace the original micro component. Re the transformer. This will simply transform 230V AC down to the system voltage. Therefore any transformer to that spec will do. You may need a local electronics technician. (I'm too far away from you) They don't work with original part numbers. They work with standard 'off the shelf' components. In fact they usually have all the replacement components, other than micro-chips. If you can find one locally; that would be great He'll suss out the problem easily. If you have tied it down to the transformer. It can be de-soldered and replaced. Just be certain that you check the circuit from Primary IN through Secondary OUT. If you have a heater that is working - check the mains supply in, and the transformed voltage out (at the output pins). If you have mains supply in, and nothing coming out, then yes... the transformer has been fried. Otherwise, have a good look for fuses. I'm just wondering whether your spike could have melted the transformer coils. OVERALL You can forget about complete m/boards (obviously). Simply follow the electricity path, and find the failed component. Then change that component. If you can do it yourself, it will cost you very little x 5. You may need a solder sucker. It's a tool that sucks the solder when it has been melted. www.ebay.co.uk/p/Metal-Solder-Sucker-Silverline-633609-185mm-Extractor/12003303625?iid=231879756759 €3 is fine. Hey... if it is the transformer, and you can't find one with the same pin dimensions... You can use any same spec transformer, and solder wires to the secondary pins on the m/board. A bit like a laptop with a separate PSU - or find somewhere to mount it in the heater. Good luck.... you can do this :D
Yes, all 5 have the same fault as I have confirmed by replacing the transformer with one from a working heater and they all miraculously burst into life! I have even found a supplier of replacement transformers (www.sav-pem.EU/5997-transformateur-poele-a-petrole.HTML) but unfortunately they are out of stock!!!
Nice work Anthony. It looks like you are sorted, but for the need to find another source. One thing is absolutely clear... you must fit surge protectors. They are only a few euros each, for a single plug. You could also fit one in the distribution panel, at the voltage IN. Then all the circuits downstream would have initial protection. However, you'd have to research whether one big one can protect the more delicate circuits. Overall though, your experience has provided valuable information for all visitors to this channel. Thanks for sharing. I'll pin this thread to the top :)
It's not a CO2 alarm you need, its a CO alarm, CO2 is carbon dioxide which is still pretty bad if there is too much of it, we breathe the stuff out ourselves anyway, its CO, Carbon Monoxide which is the deadly stuff you need an alarm for.
why cant they make a model that has an exhaust for the CO² (like a gasboiler),a simple flexible tube at the back like for a portable airco would be suficient,with the option to use the exhaust or not,with a tube you wouldnt have to leave your windows completely open,you just put a wooden frame with a hole for the exhaust in the window opening,and like i have done with my portable airco made a frame wich is insulated
What part of Yorkshire are you from? You sound a bit "Leeds" or Morley? I live in South America now and love hearing "English by the English"....I am usually pretty close when I hear an English accent as to what part they hail from.... My best yet, was a chap in Australia.... I said: "I reckon you are from east side of Oldham......" He lived in Delph...a village to the east of Oldham! Thanks for the video....got one of these in now.... stinking of paraffin.... They are very expensive here....but I am not a fan of them at all....overrated, smelly, not at all impressed. Yes, much better than the paraffin stoves of my childhood.....but not massively so. (Many of the problems are caused by the quality of the fuel I reckon) Cheers.
Hello i have a SWF 3000 eurom inverter its the same as you use i keep getting an EH code the manual says that the room temperature is above 28 or 30 degrees but its only 20 degrees is there anything i can do to fix this Any help please gratefully received.
It could be that the sensor is taking too much heat from the heater. You could improve its isolation - then test with a separate thermometer, until temps are correct.
@@dreeke100 Did you find the room temperature sensor? It is often clipped to the back of the heater unit ... like a cable sticking out, but going nowhere. You could try adding a rubber sleeve over the sensor. Don't forget that you can trace different sensors by looking at the cable connector names on the motherboard in this case R-Th.
You may have to accept the odour :( My heater makes a bad odour when it starts. I use a big plastic bag. I cover the front of the heater, with the bag. When the gas ignites ... a puff of smoke (that smells bad) is caught in the bag. I then empty the bag outside. The result : no bad smell. Also... your oil may be less refined. Less refined oil produces more smell. It may help, if you clean the flame rod, and combustion chamber. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html Thanks for the good question. I hope that my advice has helped you. Subscribe and thumbs up :)
Hello Fung Huang :) The error code 'EA' is not documented. This is probably to make you take it to a service center, for repair. However, if you clean the heater, as per my video ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html This can eliminate other error codes. Don't forget to clear the dust from the fan inlet. Also, physically check all electrical connections. By moving a connector, a failed connection can be fixed. If this is the first time starting the heater (after storage) ... you must remove all the old fuel from the portable tank, AND the fixed reservoir. Replace the fuel with fresh, highly refined fuel. Be careful of water at the bottom of the new fuel. Ideally you should use a water filter funnel. Good luck! :)
Hi my inverter start ok but after 2 min it turns off itself and nothing is left on the screen and after 2-3 mins when you turn it on and it starts working again and then it happens again
Hello I have a zibro 4kw heater it flashes up E11 which means i need to vent i have donr this even tried running it outside with no luck . Is this a co2 sensor issue ???
It's very difficult to say, and TBH, you haven't provided the usual info that might help. I presume that this is the first start of the season, getting it ready for winter. Did you drain the old fuel, before starting. Did you start it first time on the best fuel? If you want to check the CO2 sensor, you can bridge the two cables. If it works no problem, then you know the area to look ;)
Hi thanks for the reply The heater is a zibro LC 400 it about a year old and has had light use only with grade A fuel as recommend It wasn't the first start up since summer but maybe the 5th .. The co2 sensor is in the back of these in a small plastic holder from the research i have done . Would the method of linking across it be the same Thanks
I don't know Sean. If it looks the same as the one shown in the video, then it will likely be the same. However, the vent failure could be due to something else. Try this doc www.electricheatingcosts.com/Zibro%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Votre question concerne-t-elle un code d'erreur (07)? Ou E7? La relation spécifique entre le code d'erreur et la faute ... n'est pas claire. Les principaux problèmes sont - CO2 unité. - Tige de flamme et chambre de combustion - Puis évidemment bloqué filtre / pompe - l'eau dans la pétrole. *Tige de flamme et chambre de combustion* C'est le flux ionique entre ces composants qui régule le débit d'huile. L'écart est prédéfini, mais le carbone peut s'accumuler, et empêcher l'écoulement ionique correct. Solution: nettoyer les deux composants.
You may have to accept the odour :( My heater makes a bad odour when it starts. I use a big plastic bag. I cover the front of the heater, with the bag. When the gas ignites ... a puff of smoke (that smells bad) is caught in the bag. I then empty the bag outside. The result : no bad smell. Also... your oil may be less refined. Less refined oil produces more smell. It may help, if you clean the flame rod, and combustion chamber. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html Thanks for the good question. I hope that my advice has helped you. Subscribe and thumbs up :)
Does 'burner cloth' = wick? There are many wick designs, that use different materials. It is not possible to simply cut a piece of cloth to size. Here is a cross reference chart: 21centuryinc.com/prodimages/WICK-CROSS-REFERENCE.pdf Here is a good site: www.milesstair.com/All_heaters_and_wick_number.html Good luck with your endeavors :)
@@EngineTuning What i mean is there are types off laser heaters that have in the combusting chamber a peace off cloth or so caled burner mat. i now that it possible to buy this peace somwhere and cut in the size you need. You can buy this in holland bit they are quit expensive. I would like to send you a photo But its not possible.. Or maby i can send you a email
Sure... simply upload it to your youtube account, and paste the link here. Also paste the link to the source in Holland. That way, everyone is happy :)
@@yl1272 My motherboard has no button. You can't recalibrate the sensor, because it wouldn't be practical. Resistance changes with temperature, producing a change in voltage. So for displaying (say) 20 C the chip requires to see a specific voltage. Therefore, if it is actually 20 C, but only 17 C is being displayed, the sensor is sending the wrong voltage. Is the replacement sensor the same spec as the original? If it is, and you are confident that the temperature is wrong, then you should return the sensor, and try another one.
@@EngineTuning thank you for your reply! I ordered a new sensor and hopfuly this one will show the right temperature.. When i was replacing the sensor i have a litle black button on the motherboard..
Hello teacher I have a tenki model 4600 stove, it gives me the E6 error. I turn it on, the vendiler works, it does not spark or flame and it throws the E6 error
@@EngineTuning thank you very much teachers Another I have a tenki 3001 stove, it indicates the empty paraffin tank, the pump and the sensor were changed but the same problem continues, the stove did not work because it indicates the empty paraffin tank
@@wfhg94 These heaters can get very dirty, particularly with old oil, that will become sticky. You need to check my other video on E4 errors. It shows how to clean the heater flame rod. You probably need to clean the fixed reservoir also.
Thanks for the comment :) Sadly, this is not the case when starting the heater. The operating temperature has no effect on the starting procedure. The alloy combustion chamber (fuel well) is heated to ignition temperature, the fuel is injected, and it ignites - with a puff of smoke. I have thought a great deal about this problem. It is primarily related to the temperature of the gas (after the fuel hits the combustion chamber). It may be possible to delay ignition... thus allowing the combustion chamber to heat further. The difficulty will be in modifying the ignition thermostat. If I find the solution... you will see it announced here :)
Just sharing some knowledge. I have the Inverter 5006 heater in Cyprus and have just started it up ready for winter. Kept getting EH error code. It turns out that this is normal at ambient over 28 degrees Celsius. So there is nothing wrong with the heater it is just to hot for it to work. 3hrs later and with help from Roger Banks at Dry-it-Out Limited who let me know this information. So do not start your heater over 28 degrees celsius as it will not run.
Thank you Undertale Plays for that (very useful) information. I certainly do not have all the answers. That nugget of knowledge could be very helpful for anyone who is prepping their heater, prior to the onset of cold weather. ... it was an excellent community contribution. On behalf of everybody, I will say thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge :)
Hello I have similar heaters models Tectro SRE 1330 C2. They have worked well for several years. Now one after a few minutes of running has a problem. The nice blue flame turns to an orange flickering flame and it smells. I have run two heaters side by side and only this one exhibits the problem so it is not ventilation. I have swapped the fuel tanks so it is not a fuel problem. I have cleaned and swapped the burner. I heave cleaned and swapped the ion sensor. I can only think it might be the main injector pump as i have not tried this yet but this looks a complicated swap which i would prefer not to do... Has anyone an idea what the problem could be. Any help please gratefully received.
Nice 'job report'. It is clear that you have thought this through, and carried out the testing and maintenance work. However, when troubleshooting a 'new to you' system, it is possible that you overlooked something fairly simple ... it just didn't get included in the work plan. Ha! Let's hope so eh? :) A good method, to overcome this normal occurrence is to restate the problem. By restating the problem, it reopens the mind that has become closed (having completed the tests). The problem is: The fuel is not burning efficiently, due to: a) Insufficient air supply b) Excess fuel supply c) Contaminated fuel You likely knew this; but by forcing yourself to restate the problem, it forces you to think: this is not a problem with the air supply; in fact it must be insufficient air supply (as a potential cause). Similarly; excess fuel supply, not less fuel. Otherwise, it will be contaminated fuel. For the fuel supply; you've cleaned the flame rod and combustion chamber. It is less likely that the pump is suddenly pumping too much fuel, as a blockage would be more common. So put that to one side. Insufficient air. Is the air intake fan working (not the heat blower at the back)? You should be able to hear it. Is the air intake clear? That leaves contaminated fuel. Using your syphon; did you pump out all the old fuel from the fixed reservoir ... and then replace all the old fuel with new, freshly purchased fuel of high quality? Note: Try to get everything out (even using very strong and absorbent paper towels). Remember that the last fluid out will be the water, because it is heavier than fuel oil ;) Tip 1: Add acetone to the fresh fuel @ around 2% mix ... you can drop that to 0.5% to 1% for normal running, to gain a better burn, and more heat, when you turn the heat down. The acetone will mix in with any remaining water in the system, and greatly reduce the droplet size of the injected fuel (superior vaporisation). Tip 2: Be careful when filling the tank with the last fuel in the container, as water is often at the bottom of the container ;) If the container is not see through, then transfer the last bit of fuel to rest in a clear container, and or, use a funnel with a water filter ;) My gamble would be on the fuel, because you probably didn't clean the old fuel out from last year :D It could be the intake fan. Less likely, but you must check. Good luck :)
@@EngineTuning Hello ET Thank you very much for your suggestions and advice. The large fan on the back of the heater is running fine I think. I held a piece of paper against it and it is pulled onto the grill just as it is in on the good heater. So I discounted the fan, also I am sure there would be an error code if the fan was not running. FYI I am not getting any error codes to help me. Also I mentioned previously I swapped over the fuel reservoirs and the good heater has run for several hours on the bad heaters fuel with no problems. I have emptied the fuel and cleaned as well as I could the sump tank but after a refill the problem was still there. So just to make sure I have done this properly I have done it again. This time I have sucked every dreg using a syringe and wiped with tissues and used some alcohol and now left it for over 24 hours in the warm sunshine with the tank out and facing the Sun. I will try some fresh fuel and try again. I am annoyed that this has come out of the blue or should I say orange... Over the years I have had orange flickering before and a good clean of the burner grill and sensor did the trick. I am puzzled that I do not get an error code or the heater shutting down to show it is not happy with things. Normally I figure things out but after dismantling and re assembling several times with no improvement it gets annoying and frustrating. this is why it is now basking in the sun and I am busy typing........
@@EngineTuning Air intake fan, what do you mean? I might wrongly assume that there is only one fan on my heater(s) the big tin one on the back. Is there another somewhere else? I would be very surprised if there was. can you explain what fan you mean, maybe my heater(s) are different to what you think ua-cam.com/video/gZz36s_ur70/v-deo.html
@@bellesurpriseholidaygite8534 Yes. If you check my first reply, you'll see that I stated 'not the heat blower at the back'. The air intake fan will either be to the left of the combustion chamber, or beneath it. You should be able to see the motor attached to an enclosure; within which, is the fan. The air intake can easily be found - it will have a removable grill (probably). The output of the fan may be a rubber hose, but could be part of the enclosure. It feeds the air to the combustion chamber. The motor has a 'hall effect' sensor, to indicate it's rpm. This tells the computer, which in turn adjusts the speed to suit the burn conditions. :)
I have recalibrated both my heaters that look the same as here, I beieive they're Tosaine, but I have a Qlima that needs the same treatment and looks nowhere near the same inside. Can anyone help??
Le radiateur Ruby sre302 fonctionne pendant une heure ou deux, puis un signal de ventilateur apparaît et le radiateur s'éteint. Lorsqu'il est redémarré, il fonctionne pendant quelques minutes et le signal du ventilateur apparaît. Le filtre arrière a été nettoyé et le même problème .
This could be a ventilation CO2 problem. Is the room small? You said the heater works for an hour or two. This indicates that the heater is fully functional. When you restart the heater; it functions for a few minutes. This is likely because the 'Stop Condition' has not changed. Consider ventilating the room :)
@@EngineTuning Merci pour votre réponse. La pièce est très grande. Existe-t-il une solution autre que la ventilation, car lorsque je la déplace sur un Mac plus grand, le même problème persiste
@@alwafimutaz I don't know, because the heater functions for two hours. If it was overheating, this would have occurred after 30 minutes. The only obvious problem is insufficient ventilation. A window should be left slightly open, to allow some 'CO2 rich' air to escape. This will suck fresh air into the room, if the door to the room is left slightly open. Basically ... the fire consumes oxygen, so raising the CO2 level in the room. The CO2 sensor, constantly measures the CO2 level in the air. If it reaches a trigger point, the heater will switch off and display a ventilation error code. Therefore, there must be some fresh air entering the room, and some 'CO2 rich' air leaving the room. It is possible that the CO2 sensor is too sensitive OR ... It is just doing it's job, by alerting you to too much CO2 in the room. Obviously this is just an educated guess, but I can't think of any other explanation.
Lol thanks for this video. I hope you are well and have not succumbed to any co2. Half way through I thought you might take a hammer or somthing and smash it to kingdom come.! Any how you have inspired me to take it apart and investigate.
Sorry, I don't know. It could be anything - CO2, electrical, flame rod, old fuel, or perhaps it has been knocked. In these situations, you should describe the history. Is it the first time you started the heater this year? Previously, was it working fine? Did it switch off during operation? Have you just moved it from storage? Did it have the old fuel from last year? The more information that you give, the easier it is to identify the fault.
The HHH error always appears after every time I reset the Aladdin Akf p326n heater. It works for several minutes and then gives the HHH error again and again, Please help.
*Clearing Errors* We assume that a request for advice, relates to the first start of the season. This means that the heater has been used last year, and then put away during the warm months. Therefore, the heater was working correctly, the last time it was used. Clean the air intake, and the fuel filter. Pump all the old fuel out of the fixed reservoir, into a container. Empty the portable fuel tank into the container. Fill the tank with fresh fuel. If you can buy acetone ... add 1% acetone to the fuel (10ml per Litre). If this doesn't solve the problem, you will need to clean the flame rod (as per the video). For most people, the heater will now function correctly. If not, you will need to find a repair centre, who can check the electronics. If the heater is now working... Each time you refill the fuel, you can add small quantities of the old fuel to the new fuel. Adding 1% acetone, will counter any humidity in the fuel, and make the heater burn hotter and cleaner. Good luck!
It is not possible for me to provide a definitive answer. However... An explosion would occur, if you used petrol as the fuel, instead of pétrole. Pétrole is French for paraffin or refined kerosene - a very light oil. Petrol is a highly volatile fuel. It gives off an inflammable gas at room temperature. If petrol was injected into the pre-heated combustion chamber, an explosion would definitely occur when the sparker was activated.
Hi Melissa ... I have not come across this error code. Consequently, you need to tell me the error circumstances. Is this the first start of the season? When was the heater last used? Are you starting the heater with old fuel? When does the error occur? ... by this I mean : You plug it in, and press the start button ... what happens next (passage of time)? Other than that, you should : - Drain the fuel tank into an empty container - Clean the fuel filter - Using the tube syphon, pump out as much of the old fuel as possible from the fixed fuel tank (beneath the filter) - Refill the fuel tank with newly purchased fuel (the correct grade). .... be careful not to take the water that is often at the bottom of the purchased fuel container. (It could be that you have water in the heater system) Make sure that the heater is level. Try starting the heater repeatedly - start - error -switch off - start etc. (repeat six times) If it finally starts, you can gradually mix the old fuel with the new, each time it needs a refill. You can also buy a litre of acetone, and add 50ml of Acetone to 5 Lt of fuel. This will absorb any water, and the fuel will burn cleaner and hotter (so it pays for itself). You can also buy a funnel with a water filter - check before purchasing that the funnel does not allow water to pass ;) This one should work www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tractor-Funnel-with-Water-Separating-Filter-Heavy-Duty-Funnel-OIL-TF/352309765511? If these steps don't work, then you will need to service the heater. See this play list ua-cam.com/play/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa.html You will need to follow the 'Easy Fix' video. Good luck ... report back ;) :)
Hello Francisc :) The E2 error indicates possible 'water in the fuel' - reduced combustion. You will need to drain the fixed fuel tank (below the fuel transportable reservoir) Do this, using the plastic pump siphon that you probably have. Pump this fuel into a container, and empty the transportable reservoir also into this container. Replace with fresh fuel. If you can ... add 1 % acetone to the new fuel. This will mix with any remaining water, and will cause the heater to burn cleaner. This acetone mix is highly cost efficient, as you get more heat from the fuel that you burn. Also, it will clean up the combustion chamber. Best wishes, and good luck :)
The short answer is: I do not know why the fan turns off, after turning on the heater. The long answer is: There are a number of reasons why an electric motor might stop working. Annoyingly, the person who can identify the reason, will be an electronics technician, who will charge you money for his time. Sometimes in life, you must resort to a specialist technician. This is how they make money and feed their family, so it is not all bad. :)
Dear sir hello I have a problem with my mitsubishi kerosene fan heater model Kd-32d4-n shwin F2 problem What do you think about it would you help me if you have email i can send you picture of the light which turn on
The thing to understand is... I already help people with their problems. I'm happy to help people. However, you need to list the failure fault (in detail). Then, I can help you, and others :)
domage la video et pas en francaise g meme probleme co2 tout demonter nettoyer remonter et encor co2 son pontage de fil et bien mes demage c pas en francais
Er ... Mike .... J'ai fait de mon mieux avec les sous-titres français. J'ai passé des heures. S'ils sont mauvais ... alors dites-le. S'ils sont mauvais ... alors désolé ... J'ai échoué. Mais ne dites pas que je n'ai pas essayé. Ce n'est pas juste du tout;) Plus ... FFS combien de personnes passent les heures pour traduire en français? ... laissez-moi vous dire ... ce n'est pas facile. ET BTW Je sais que c'est un gros problème en France. C'est pourquoi je l'ai traduit. Veuillez reconsidérer votre opinion ;)
उपशीर्षक का चयन करने का प्रयास करें। गियर पिनियन पर क्लिक करें। ऑटो-ट्रांसलेट का चयन करें। मुझे उम्मीद है कि यह आपके लिए काम करेगा। upasheershak ka chayan karane ka prayaas karen. giyar piniyan par klik karen. oto-traansalet ka chayan karen. mujhe ummeed hai ki yah aapake lie kaam karega
+Christelle Gomez Oh Christelle! Comment était la traduction? Est-ce compréhensible? Je passais des heures sur le texte. Je vis en France, et je sais que beaucoup de Français ont cet appareil de chauffage. Donc heureux si la vid vous a aidé.
Hahaha ... I know what you mean ... hahaha :) Funnily enough, 3 days ago, James Bowler left a comment that was the direct opposite of yours. You just can't please everyone. For myself, I'm happy enough with it ... at least it is short duration, scraping in at just under 15 minutes. That's pretty damned good for a fairly complex educational video ;) Anyway; thanks for taking the time to make the comment - at least it brings a smile to the face :)
codprawn That actually a CO2 dioxide sensor and a NDIR “nondispersive infrared” sensor. That arc looking plastic is the light guide for the infrared sensor. CO monoxide is only a issue on a non complete cycle of combustion, which is really not a issue with these type of heaters It is the high level of CO2 carbon dioxide you have to worry about and water vapor. You need a good CO2 meter that has NDIR (Non-Dispersive Infrared) waveguide technology to test. You know if CO2 levels are high if you get headaches. Easy to solve with proper ventilation. You get carbon monoxide from incomplete combustion." Plus most these heater will shut down due to lack of oxygen. A lot more that most get confused. Yes CO monoxide can die from poisoning and Asphyxiation.
Thank you so much ! I have an Inverter from Kero, with constant false CO2 alarm. Put it apart several times, switched from several brands of fuel, nothing solved the problem, exept...recalibrating it with the paperclip. Simple as that !!! Works like new, so happy !
Nice !
Thanks for this. The detector panel on mine was made in Sweden. I took it apart and followed the instructions. The paper clip didn't work. I put it in the oven at 60 degrees and left it for an hour. Then I put it back into the heater, with the paper clip connected. Tried it again, first with the paper clip and then without. Bingo. It now works like new. Many thanks from Carcassonne in France.
Well done Jess.
Nice!
Thanks for this video mate, followed every step and after not working properly for months finally works non stop. Saved us getting a new one. Thanks again for the clear and easy instructions!!
Great feedback Mark... that makes it all worthwhile :)
Great, A real life video, nothing goes right without a cup of tea! thank you
Haha yes ... victory snatched from the jaws of defeat :)
Brilliant video, thanks for taking the trouble to record this. I have exactly the same heater, with the identical problem and didn't want to throw it out when I knew it was just the CO meter which was dicky. It annoys me endlessly the amount of low quality junk imported from China which ends up in landfill after 5 minutes use - your video has helped me to avoid this. Well until the next component goes phut !!
Brilliant !!!
Thanks Simon :)
amigos del mundo agradecido de la persona de este tutorial realmente se paso un genio gracias por la asistencia gracias
Thank you so much. Followed instructions ,,, cleaned filters , got rid of old fuel , still not working co2 coming up . Bought paper clip . Working fine now
Hahaha loved the feedback 'bought paper clip'
... I did say that getting the paperclip would be the hardest task :D
Thanks for your comment Chris :)
muchas gracias desde España, me ha sido de gran ayuda. He hecho lo que indica en el video y ha funcionado!!
Thank you very much from Spain, it has been a great help to me. I have done what is indicated in the video and it has worked !!
Thank you Juanma for taking the time to report back :)
I just did it. It seems works good and correctly. Thank you from Italy.
Thanks for that feedback Max :)
Thank you friend, from chile ... we will have a warmer winter, with a stove that gave us and thanks to you I could fix
What wonderful news from Chile... you have just made my day.
Thanks for that Marcelo :)
Hello all,
After a drying session and just a recalibration (S1 as explained) the inverter has restarded like a brand new one !
Thanks for the video ;)
Bonjour à tous,
Après avoir fait secher la sonde sur un radiateur et une simple recalibration (pontage temporaire S1 haut-gauche sur S1 bas -gauche), l'appareil a redémarré comme un neuf !
Merci pour cette vidéo ;)
Bravo Michel :)
Thanks mate, I used the paper clip reset on my CO2 board, and it worked.
Great.
Don't forget to return the favour, and click subscribe ;)
The same for me, thanks for the tutorial, I’ve reseted the CO2 sensor with an electric guitar string
the paperclip worked for me, great, thank yyou very much! no Co2 cut for me anymore.
Good News!
:)
Super, même s'il est vrai que la traduction est moyenne ;) Pour les Français, je vous explique ce qu'il faut faire. Votre poêle affiche CO2, pas de soucis, enlevé le capot, déclipsé le module CO2 en bas à droite, faire un pont avec un trombone sur les trous du S1, allumer est compter 10 clignotement (perso j'ai en laisser 12), mettre sur off, déponter le trombonne, rallumer. A ce moment là votre capteur CO2 est recalibrer. si cela n'as pas fonctionner, deux solutions, soit le trombone n'as pas fait contact entre les deux borne des trous du S1, soit il faut passer le module au four à 60° (ce qui permet de refaire les micro-soudures comme en informatique) et recommencer l'étape pont. Si cela ne fonctionne pas, vous pouvez faire un pont entre les files bleu et gris mais attention car vous n'aurez plus de detecteur de CO2 = risque de mort. Personnellement la première a fonctionner pour moi. Encore merci, mon poêle fonctionne à nouveau !!! Good job Engine Tuning ;)
Merci pour la traduction Hicks.
Quand j'ai le temps, je vais mettre à jour les sous-titres :)
Merci pour la traduction
Thanks for the tip, it has worked for me. I went on the web site of the manufacturer of the CO2 unit but they do not list this type. Maybe they just make it specifically for this heater manufacturer.
Great news.
I remember visiting that site (are they Swedish or something like that?... I forget).
However, I remember learning nothing from their site.
yeay! Who said girls can't do technics? i just fixed my inverters false co detection by recalibrating just as you said! it works!! a very warm thank you Mr Engine Tuning! i ll check on how to clean its filter as well :)
Well done Vuur vogel :)
You have set a great example for others to follow.
Thanks for sharing your success with us :)
could not have done it without your video sir!
Thank you!... though full credit goes to you.
I gave the advice... but it was you that implemented it.
Your work - your success :)
I've pinned this to the top of the comments.
This will bolster the courage of those that lack your confidence :)
Thanks for the great information, all seems fine with my heater...but should I get a puff of smoke on start up? Cheers
Yes!
Catch it in a bin bag, and release it into the wild.
;)
Outstanding fix with the paperclip. Thanks so much.
Thanks Ian.
Lots of people reporting success with that method :)
New issue for me, and you seem to be the only person who knows your way round these heaters. wife said she turned it on, it ignited and ran for a short while then stopped, and the screen was blank (as if no power). I went to have a look, the heater appears dead (socket checked and was ok) and the heater casing was noticeably very hot! I’m waiting for it to cool down and have another look, but I’m guessing it went haywire and overheated, tripping something??
Any ideas gratefully appreciated. 🙏
Check the mother board, where the mains supply is transformed - there should be a fuse, and there may be more than one.
If the fuses are good, and the panel remains blank, then an electric component has failed.
Re the heat ... check the air intake grill, and make sure everything is clean.
Also ensure that it is not too close to a wall etc.
Good luck :)
Have u ever done a video on a paraffin inverter heater which deals with the flame flashing orange, combusting, and thermostat cutting in?
No, not specifically.
I presume that it's moisture that causes the flicker of orange.
Add 0.5% Acetone to each fresh tank of fuel.
This breaks the surface tension of liquids, including water, and all liquid fuels.
This enables the fuel to be better atomised (rather than droplets), ensuring superior combustion, and greater heat output.
You can even turn the heater down, and still get blue flames.
Acetone saves you a substantial sum of money, and likely eliminates 'cleaning strip-downs', or certainly prolongs the period between services.
Don’t know if it’s said elsewhere in comments, but it’s CO (carbon monoxide), not CO2 (carbon dioxide).
thanks, i was confused a bit there - was wondering why it had a co2 sensor when my inverter has a CO sensor. Don't those things have a service life anyways? so at some point its gonna need bypassing and use a stand alone sensor to monitor
Thank you so much for your help and your time. I can fix the CO2 problem in my heater with a paper clip.
Good news Ricardo :)
Thanks for these videos there very helpful, however my one is completely shot, the motherboard has blown, do you know where i could get new motherboard in the UK
Thanks 👍
Ebay, or find a cheap used heater.
Good luck!
hello there , been running one of these for the 2 previous winters , just started it again for this year and seems to stink bad on shut down , worse than before its always smelt a bit but is there anything i should be looking at ?
Just give it a service.
Check out my video tutorial.
:)
@@EngineTuning i shall ive already watched the videos, although i struggle to understand why its so bad upon shut down
@@steveo3002 The cpu is likely getting wrong signals from the flame rod.
@@EngineTuning right i thought i would update you , rods both clean but i polished them up anyway , one small penny size burnt looking scab in the pot , it just fell off no need to scrape - seems to have fixed the smells thank you
@@steveo3002 Nice find Steve :)
Dear Sir,
Thank you für explanations. My kanzai mostly does not react when I press the start button - the start sequence does not start. Do you have any ideas?
Thank you
It sounds like 'lack of power supply'.
If you can use a multimeter, you first need to check fuses, then mains power in at the transformer, and the out voltage.
Good luck!
:)
Ive tried this and it works thanks very much
Good work Richie - thanks for taking the time to comment, and lift the morale of those who may be feeling intimidated :)
Thx, you saved me 150€! :-D
+David Allard
Good news! :)
What was the fix.... disable, or recalibrate?
They are actually using a NDIR non-dispersive Infrared technology which is way better then the electro mechanical type that most use to cut cost.
Thanks for the comment Tech Genie.
I've just given this a search, and I'm getting results on gas sensors that use blinking light.
This does correspond to what can be seen on the faulty gas sensor in the video.
Hi can you advise me on my kero 301 dosnt ignite every time only sometimes I took apart gave it a clean n still the same where can I get parts for it
I don't know a parts store.
You need to analyse what is happening.
Has the problem just appeared, or has it gradually gotten worse?
Is it 'clicking' (creating a spark)?
Try cleaning the sparker.
En una tenki 3001 en que lugar está en sensor de co2 ?
I don't know.
Usually they are all in the same place.
hI, Thanks for the great inverter/laser paraffin videos. I have a Zibro/Toyotomi lc32 - been great with no maintenance for 4 years, apart from the co2 fault e11, which comes on earlier and earlier, and now after a couple of minutes. Today, with your video guides, i stripped the thing down, cleaned the burner and flame sensor (which were'nt dirty/carbonised at all). Worst was the gunge in the internal fuel tank, horrible slimy black gunge under the oil which i poured out. Located the co2 sensor - it's on the back, lower rh side, under a plastic cover, slightly different to yours in this video. Got pictures but don't know how to post them yet. The wires to it are white, black, red blue. There's no s1 and s2 marked, so can't reset it as you described. Any ideas how i can reset this particular sensor? Failing that, any idea which two wires to short to effectively disable the sensor and get rid of the self-shutdown due to lack or ventilation (e 11)? Many thanks. The house is getting cold!
Hi Jay
I can't help with the specifics :(
They are all sort of the same, so you need to settle down to the task, and take a view on the problem.
Half the problem is that you had hope that I could direct you.
Once that hope is dispelled, then you are free
... it's the best place to be ;)
:)
@@EngineTuning Well thanks anyhow. I think a better place for me would be if I had a solution to my particular co2 sensor problem! It's not that I haven't tried - been on this for 6 months now. For some reason, the lc32 model doesn't figure in any youtube videos, certainly to the servicing level or circuit diagrams. It's so frustrating - the co2 module (and the whole heater) seems to be extremely similar to yours, but has a different 'arch' and no s1, s2 'holes'. Just one further question if I may - if I randomly play around shorting the co2 interface wires (in the hope to stop it reporting an erroneous error) is it likely I'd damage the electronics (or myself)? I assume it's all low voltage. If anyone reading has solved this for the lc32 (as sold by amazon,ebay etc, plenty must own one i would think) i'd appreciate some help.
@@jayswaff4120 It is highly likely that the cable positions will be the same as on the video.
Examine the circuits and compare to mine at say
ua-cam.com/video/djHI69lIcxo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/djHI69lIcxo/v-deo.html
follow the cables.
If it is as mine, there will be 3 wires.
These will be live, return, and signal - red, blue, grey in unknown order
Connecting the grey to neutral drops the signal to 0V from a higher voltage, OR blue is the live (unusual but hey) and lifts the signal from 0V to a higher voltage.
Ie. it is a binary switch - high voltage or zero voltage is seen on the motherboard, causing it to stop the system, or allow it to run.
From this, you can appreciate the need to meter (DC volts) the cables to earth, when disconnected from the sensor.
The most important is to find the cable that is live (powering the sensor)
Then you can connect the other two cables.
Good luck, and don't rush it :)
@@EngineTuning Well problem solved, mainly through trial and error. So here's the co2 solution for a lcdx320 (which is very similar to the lc32 it was sold to me as) which i hope may help others. The co2 sensor is connected to the motherboard by a 6 pin connector with 4 wires connected. Disconnect the connector (and don't reconnect it later) and short out the two right hand pins. This takes away the co2 error and 'ventilate' message and the beeping for this error. All trial and error, so no idea of any other consequences, but it's be going fine for a week now. Thanks for the pointers engine tuning. I think even without a co2 sensor, the heater is still safe due to the flame monitoring, but nevertheless, I'm careful to well ventilate the room.
@@jayswaff4120 That is truly great news Jay :)
What you have shown is that 'knowing it can be done' needs to be matched to a firm decision 'to accept the challenge', followed by 'thoughtful action'.
Clearly, in technical matters, some basic understanding is required (in order to know where to start).
Once you have that basic understanding, one's good brain can figure it out, if it is allowed the time to do so.
This is why you can't rush these problems ;)
Hahaha!
What a victory!
... and you can justifiably walk taller now.
This work will continue to pay dividends throughout your life...
Victory is sweet :)
Hi, my Ruby sre 300 which is almost identical to the one in your video and has a problem in that when I start in normal 'auto' mode in fires up then switches off after a few seconds with the alarm sound and showing the error - E1 or E2.
To get it to start and keep going I have to press the MIN button on the power select before it fires up and only then does it work.
I have stripped the machine and cleaned everything including fresh fuel. Any thoughts on what the problem might be?
Thanks.
Hi Ian.
Just to confirm ... you have cleaned the unit as per playlist :
ua-cam.com/play/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa.html
In particular:
ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/tKpzPCLnhuw/v-deo.html
The error codes indicate contaminated fuel or flame rod problem.
It is feasible there could have been water build up in the fixed fuel reservoir.
The flame rod itself could be failing.
If you can get the heater to start ... I would buy a can of highest grade fuel (C1) - sold in containers often with a picture of an indoor portable heater (ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html).
Run the heater for a few hours at its maximum temperature.
This high grade fuel will help dissolve any older sticky residues, and its increased volatility will create a hotter combustion chamber (which in itself can be self-cleaning).
Make sure that the room is well ventilated.
In this way, the heater may resolve its problems.
Good luck!
Let us know how you got on ;)
@@EngineTuning Hi, Thanks for the quick reply. I have watched the playlist and followed your instruction. I made sure everything was spotless but the error appears when starting from cold. Also, if I try and increase the temperature after the heater has been run for some time occasionally the machine cuts off as it tries to increase the heat output.
Is there a temperature sensor that needs investigating?
Thanks again.
If you have cleaned the combustion chamber and flame rod, and you are using highly refined fuel ... normally all problems are solved (I think, in all cases reported here).
It is possible that the flame rod is failing, or the temp sensor, but we are in a grey area.
Honestly, it is difficult to say what the problem might be.
@@EngineTuning Thanks for your help anyway.
Hi I have been watching your videos regarding the paraffin heaters with great interest. I had a power failure and several of my heaters that were running at the time now refuse even to show the temperature or any other signs of life. I have checked the fuses, they are fine, I can not find a wiring diagram on line and I am at a loss to know how to proceed. Can you offer any help. Thanks
That sounds like very bad news Anthony.
The fact is that we live our lives believing that everything is under strict control.
However, many elements have lesser degrees of control.
Electrical supply is in that latter bracket.
Fuse designers do their best, and certainly, some countries have better electrical infrastructure than others.
The problem may be due to 'a perfect storm' of circumstances.
A power failure can create a supply spike.
This can defeat conventional spike defence norms.
Additional protection can be purchased quite cheaply.
Most people use it for their TV's and computers, but clearly, it is also required for the heater motherboards.
Fuses are rated by their reaction time.
If over-current occurs, then a fast acting fuse melts before too much excess current has passed through it.
If you experienced a spike of really high, yet short duration, the fuse might have got hot, but never melted.
... though further down the line, there were components more susceptible to the peak temperature (than the fuse).
This is why the fuse must always be weaker than the weakest component downstream.
The fuse must be the weakest link.
But if too weak, it will continually trip.
The designer looks at the typical scenario - say perhaps, a longer duration, lower peak.
It sounds like you were unlucky, or the designers got it wrong.
... particularly as you state that more than one heater was fried.
Using the same components... if one went bang... then why not the others?
Boom!
... or more likely; no sound whatsoever.
Simply, component failure.
>>>>>
You really need to provide more info.
What country?
How many heaters in total (in use)?
How many of those were fried?
Talk to the supplier.
Ask if they have a spare 'test' motherboard.
Swap it with one failed heater.
If it works, then order new motherboards.
Shit happens... Good luck :)
Hi,i have Qlima inverter kerosene heater,but i have e 03.I cleaned evrything, fuel filter,nuzlle,pump,but the problem not going.Sime times is working for 15-20min ,then they slow the burnning and getting off .Do you have same idea?
Have you cleaned the flame rod?
ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html
@@EngineTuning yes it's cleaned,evrythink it shinnig like brand new.I think maybe one of the tempreture sensore is wrong,i dont know what is this think on the nuzzle,are one of couple wires is for heating of nuzzle
Buy some Acetone.
It is cheapest, the more you buy.
In France I paid €15 for 5 litres.
This is enough to treat 500 litres of fuel oil (3 cents per litre)
Add 50ml of Acetone to the 5lt reservoir (1%)
For this first time only ... add 5ml to the fixed reservoir, and stir it in.
There is a good chance that this will fix the problem.
Also, the heater will run hotter and burn less fuel - therefore it will not cost you, in fact you will save money.
Run the heater at maximum temperature for a couple of hours.
You can then lower the temperature to suit your needs.
It may take around 4 - 6 hours to return to full normality.
Thereafter, always add 50ml of Acetone for each new tank of fuel.
BTW This fix has already worked for robyne smith
See the comment thread here:
ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html
@@EngineTuning Ok i will try,I hope to be fine,because i no have more think to do.Yesterday i change fuel pump with anothere from my second heater Corona,to test them.But its the same story,only the flayme was weakly because fuel pump from corona is smaller
I can see that you are working hard to repair your heater.
Well done for making the effort.
Sometimes an easy solution can be found.
I think that the Acetone could be your easy solution.
Good luck!
Bridge S1 for 10 blinks (10 seconds) works perfect for my exactly the same Kanzai SRE3002S
Ah Ha!!!!!!!
Great news!!!!
Thank you Frenk for reporting in.... the first to confirm that :Big Grin:
wery good!!!! super!!!! co2 recalibrer très bonne video
Good news Momo :)
I recalibrated the cO2 card as on the video, everything works fine.
My question and the following I would like to know how to test to see if the plate will activate CO2 safety if too much CO2 in the room? Thank you.j'ai recalibré la carte cO2 comme sur la vidéo,tout fonctionne correctement.
Ma question et la suivante j'aimerai savoir comment tester pour savoir si la plaque activera la sécurité co2 si trop de co2 dans la pièce? Merci
Place the heater in a small room.
Close all ventilation.
Start the heater.
... At some point, it should switch off, with a CO2 error code.
What is a e-8 fault on these heaters please
Did you solder in the 2 round contacts?
Whit tin?
@@jomarotta9055 I used a normal electricians solder, which has flux inside the soldering wire.
Salam i live in iran and baluchastan very in terested in fixing oil and gas i do.tanks and programs
Salam :)
@@EngineTuning واتوساتوکنه مااتووارتره مزه تر
before of all, congratulations for your vids!
I have a Qlima and only appears error 17 , but the problem that I cant see the s* anywhere, in other words I just don't know where co2 sensor and therefore I can do nothing! do you know where I can look for it?
Thanks very much for a reply!
The video ua-cam.com/video/3wsBBEMNxwU/v-deo.html shows the Qlima Laser Heater to be of similar construction to the one in the video.
This means that the only space available, to mount the motherboard is to the right, in front of the portable fuel tank.
On most heaters of this type, the sensor is where it is shown on the video.
If you cannot find it, perhaps a new type of sensor is used.
@@EngineTuning thanks! i will check it! thanks again!
hi I have got a ne model as well and from the mother board is going 3 cables brown, blue, and red i disconnected the plug but it still would switch off after 3min of working showing e17 error code my sensor is in the back in small plastic brown box can you please help me
thank you
excellent video. only one thing, its a CO (carbon monoxide ) sensor not a co 2 (carbon dioxide ) sensor. a lot of people confuse to 2. CO will kill you. co2 wont, well not straight away anyway. you need a CO alarm not a co2 alarm.
You can buy both.
The heater detector is a CO2 detector.
As the fuel burns, the oxygen is consumed and CO2 levels rise ... hence the need for ventilation.
:)
@@EngineTuning Yes, but the CO2 will not kill you. You are breathing CO2 out like everything that is burning.
But I'm wondering if it is really a CO2 detector that is inside the heater (it can though of course),because if it is much there is probably less oxigen in the air and that could make it produce CO later, so a kind of 'pre-warning'-system?
Yes, it's a warning system to indicate too much CO2 to oxygen :)
Hi, I waited 25 flashes with the paperclip S1, then stop and restart without the paperclip, it's ok there is'nt Co2 code
Nice!
Good work Joel :)
Hey, I keep getting e1 and e9. We bought this heater around 3 years ago and it always worked just fine. This year though, it was working as usual but there was a day when power went down. Ever since then the errors I mencioned keep showing up.
Do you know what that might be?
Thank you in advance.
Hi Antonio.
That's a very well presented question (therefore you deserve a good answer)...
1) Age of the heater
2) Overall operational history
3) History just prior to the failure
4) The failure point
5) The errors after failure
I would say that for this type of heater (liquid fuel) - it just lacked 'the type of oil being used'.
Have a look at this video that I made discussing the different fuel types.
ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html
Based upon how highly refined (is the oil) - there are 2 top home heating grades ... and then lower grades.
There are also oils used in engine environments, that might have chemicals added (to help the engines to function correctly)
The top grade (British Standard C1) - is the highest refined, and it burns 10% hotter (than C2 grade oil).
It burns very cleanly, leaving minimal deposits ... meaning 'reduced maintenance'.
You can breathe the fumes in a ventilated room.
C2 grade is slightly more viscous, and leaves more physical deposits after burning.
It is recommended for heaters with a chimney or flue, that vents the fumes outside.
Lots of people use this grade in their portable heaters - it's cheaper, and more easily available.
However, the heater will periodically require cleaning - explained here:
ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html
Note: C2 grade contains 10% less energy than C1 ... therefore include that, when comparing the cost of the oils.
Your Problem
------------------------
Loss of power - E9
This indicates that the 'auto-shut-off' has been activated.
My thinking is that the heater was knocked - causing the auto-shut-off (power off).
It should be placed on a level surface.
Power disconnected, then reconnected, and switched on.
Try repeating this, if E9 error code is displayed.
The auto-shut-off should reset itself (we hope).
EO to E4 are combustion errors.
Yours was working fine ... so we are confused.
If the error codes persist ... you will need to dismantle the heater, and clean it.
That means:
The fuel filter, air filter, flame rod, sparker, combustion grill, and all dust
The fuel filter video is here:
ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html
Please return and post your report.
Thumbs up for each video, and subscribe please.
Good luck!
:)
Engine Tuning Thank you for your help. The heater is now working normally. I followed your instructions and they were spot on.
Thank you once again.
That is marvelous news Antonio :)
Thanks for reporting the good news!
:)
Hi, I have tracked the problem to the transformer. I live in northwest France and often experience fluctuations in voltage. I'm not sure if this one was the result of lightening but it took out 5 heaters. I have found a motherboard replacement here in France at 225€, I can currently by a new heater on offer at 179€!!!! I am searching for a replacement transformer but with no luck.
Ah yes - France.
Sadly, France is subject to many supply fluctuations, particularly when it rains :(
The replacement m/board cost is ridiculous... sorry to hear that.
Because you have lost 5 heaters... probably with the same component failing in each, you need to be certain that each heater does have the same failed component.
Do remember that electrical components cost pennies.
Even transformers are very cheap.
This kit is knocked out by the millions.
If a single specific component has failed... that specific component can be changed.
Even on the motherboard, you could hope that a replacement could be soldered in place.
You sometimes see this on m/boards, where a big old fashioned component is soldered in place to replace the original micro component.
Re the transformer.
This will simply transform 230V AC down to the system voltage.
Therefore any transformer to that spec will do.
You may need a local electronics technician.
(I'm too far away from you)
They don't work with original part numbers.
They work with standard 'off the shelf' components.
In fact they usually have all the replacement components, other than micro-chips.
If you can find one locally; that would be great
He'll suss out the problem easily.
If you have tied it down to the transformer.
It can be de-soldered and replaced.
Just be certain that you check the circuit from Primary IN through Secondary OUT.
If you have a heater that is working - check the mains supply in, and the transformed voltage out (at the output pins).
If you have mains supply in, and nothing coming out, then yes... the transformer has been fried.
Otherwise, have a good look for fuses.
I'm just wondering whether your spike could have melted the transformer coils.
OVERALL
You can forget about complete m/boards (obviously).
Simply follow the electricity path, and find the failed component.
Then change that component.
If you can do it yourself, it will cost you very little x 5.
You may need a solder sucker.
It's a tool that sucks the solder when it has been melted.
www.ebay.co.uk/p/Metal-Solder-Sucker-Silverline-633609-185mm-Extractor/12003303625?iid=231879756759
€3 is fine.
Hey... if it is the transformer, and you can't find one with the same pin dimensions...
You can use any same spec transformer, and solder wires to the secondary pins on the m/board.
A bit like a laptop with a separate PSU - or find somewhere to mount it in the heater.
Good luck.... you can do this :D
Yes, all 5 have the same fault as I have confirmed by replacing the transformer with one from a working heater and they all miraculously burst into life! I have even found a supplier of replacement transformers (www.sav-pem.EU/5997-transformateur-poele-a-petrole.HTML) but unfortunately they are out of stock!!!
Nice work Anthony.
It looks like you are sorted, but for the need to find another source.
One thing is absolutely clear... you must fit surge protectors.
They are only a few euros each, for a single plug.
You could also fit one in the distribution panel, at the voltage IN.
Then all the circuits downstream would have initial protection.
However, you'd have to research whether one big one can protect the more delicate circuits.
Overall though, your experience has provided valuable information for all visitors to this channel.
Thanks for sharing.
I'll pin this thread to the top :)
its working very fine with the explenation
Merci Pierre pour le feedback :)
Great Job many thanks
It's not a CO2 alarm you need, its a CO alarm, CO2 is carbon dioxide which is still pretty bad if there is too much of it, we breathe the stuff out ourselves anyway, its CO, Carbon Monoxide which is the deadly stuff you need an alarm for.
+PlayF1 Net :-) a very useful video though
thanks a lot for the video the procedure works
why cant they make a model that has an exhaust for the CO² (like a gasboiler),a simple flexible tube at the back like for a portable airco would be suficient,with the option to use the exhaust or not,with a tube you wouldnt have to leave your windows completely open,you just put a wooden frame with a hole for the exhaust in the window opening,and like i have done with my portable airco made a frame wich is insulated
You can get heaters like that.
They run on a variety of fuels, and are popular in caravans and sheds
@@EngineTuning aha,thanx,didnt know that
Fantastic. Thanks. 👍🇬🇧
What part of Yorkshire are you from? You sound a bit "Leeds" or Morley?
I live in South America now and love hearing "English by the English"....I am usually pretty close when I hear an English accent as to what part they hail from....
My best yet, was a chap in Australia.... I said: "I reckon you are from east side of Oldham......" He lived in Delph...a village to the east of Oldham!
Thanks for the video....got one of these in now.... stinking of paraffin.... They are very expensive here....but I am not a fan of them at all....overrated, smelly, not at all impressed.
Yes, much better than the paraffin stoves of my childhood.....but not massively so. (Many of the problems are caused by the quality of the fuel I reckon)
Cheers.
Think Driff East Yorks :D
Hello i have a SWF 3000 eurom inverter its the same as you use
i keep getting an EH code the manual says that the room temperature is above 28 or 30 degrees but its only 20 degrees is there anything i can do to fix this
Any help please gratefully received.
It could be that the sensor is taking too much heat from the heater.
You could improve its isolation - then test with a separate thermometer, until temps are correct.
@@EngineTuning can you show me or tell me where i can find this sensor
@@dreeke100 Did you find the room temperature sensor?
It is often clipped to the back of the heater unit ... like a cable sticking out, but going nowhere.
You could try adding a rubber sleeve over the sensor.
Don't forget that you can trace different sensors by looking at the cable connector names on the motherboard in this case
R-Th.
Fantastik.tanks ...bravo
It worked, thank you!
That's great news.... Merci for the feedback.
Hello I have a Corona greenhouse and it smells out constantly so what is the solution please
You may have to accept the odour :(
My heater makes a bad odour when it starts.
I use a big plastic bag.
I cover the front of the heater, with the bag.
When the gas ignites ... a puff of smoke (that smells bad) is caught in the bag.
I then empty the bag outside.
The result : no bad smell.
Also... your oil may be less refined.
Less refined oil produces more smell.
It may help, if you clean the flame rod, and combustion chamber.
See this video:
ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html
Thanks for the good question.
I hope that my advice has helped you.
Subscribe and thumbs up :)
hello marstro I have a model 4600 tenki stove, it turns on the fan and the EA error appears, which may be failing. Thank you so much
Hello Fung Huang :)
The error code 'EA' is not documented.
This is probably to make you take it to a service center, for repair.
However, if you clean the heater, as per my video ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html
This can eliminate other error codes.
Don't forget to clear the dust from the fan inlet.
Also, physically check all electrical connections.
By moving a connector, a failed connection can be fixed.
If this is the first time starting the heater (after storage) ... you must remove all the old fuel from the portable tank, AND the fixed reservoir.
Replace the fuel with fresh, highly refined fuel.
Be careful of water at the bottom of the new fuel.
Ideally you should use a water filter funnel.
Good luck!
:)
Hi my inverter start ok but after 2 min it turns off itself and nothing is left on the screen and after 2-3 mins when you turn it on and it starts working again and then it happens again
Hello
I have a zibro 4kw heater it flashes up E11 which means i need to vent i have donr this even tried running it outside with no luck .
Is this a co2 sensor issue ???
It's very difficult to say, and TBH, you haven't provided the usual info that might help.
I presume that this is the first start of the season, getting it ready for winter.
Did you drain the old fuel, before starting.
Did you start it first time on the best fuel?
If you want to check the CO2 sensor, you can bridge the two cables.
If it works no problem, then you know the area to look ;)
Hi thanks for the reply
The heater is a zibro LC 400 it about a year old and has had light use only with grade A fuel as recommend
It wasn't the first start up since summer but maybe the 5th ..
The co2 sensor is in the back of these in a small plastic holder from the research i have done .
Would the method of linking across it be the same
Thanks
I don't know Sean.
If it looks the same as the one shown in the video, then it will likely be the same.
However, the vent failure could be due to something else.
Try this doc www.electricheatingcosts.com/Zibro%20Service%20Manual.pdf
E0 eroor veriyor yanmaya başlıyor kachel komple ısınıp sönüyor acaba nedir problem?
quel sont en générale les pannes de défaut 07 en français s'il vous plait merci
Votre question concerne-t-elle un code d'erreur (07)?
Ou E7?
La relation spécifique entre le code d'erreur et la faute ... n'est pas claire.
Les principaux problèmes sont
- CO2 unité.
- Tige de flamme et chambre de combustion
- Puis évidemment bloqué filtre / pompe
- l'eau dans la pétrole.
*Tige de flamme et chambre de combustion*
C'est le flux ionique entre ces composants qui régule le débit d'huile.
L'écart est prédéfini, mais le carbone peut s'accumuler, et empêcher l'écoulement ionique correct.
Solution: nettoyer les deux composants.
私はコロナヒーターを持っていて、いつも強いにおいがします。解決策は何ですか？
You may have to accept the odour :(
My heater makes a bad odour when it starts.
I use a big plastic bag.
I cover the front of the heater, with the bag.
When the gas ignites ... a puff of smoke (that smells bad) is caught in the bag.
I then empty the bag outside.
The result : no bad smell.
Also... your oil may be less refined.
Less refined oil produces more smell.
It may help, if you clean the flame rod, and combustion chamber.
See this video:
ua-cam.com/video/VC-5657JLhU/v-deo.html
Thanks for the good question.
I hope that my advice has helped you.
Subscribe and thumbs up :)
Could you help me where to buy burner cloth in 1 piece so i can cut the size i need? I repair them
Does 'burner cloth' = wick?
There are many wick designs, that use different materials.
It is not possible to simply cut a piece of cloth to size.
Here is a cross reference chart:
21centuryinc.com/prodimages/WICK-CROSS-REFERENCE.pdf
Here is a good site:
www.milesstair.com/All_heaters_and_wick_number.html
Good luck with your endeavors :)
@@EngineTuning
What i mean is there are types off laser heaters that have in the combusting chamber a peace off cloth or so caled burner mat.
i now that it possible to buy this peace somwhere and cut in the size you need.
You can buy this in holland bit they are quit expensive.
I would like to send you a photo
But its not possible..
Or maby i can send you a email
Sure... simply upload it to your youtube account, and paste the link here.
Also paste the link to the source in Holland.
That way, everyone is happy :)
I have a problem, engineer. You work part of a minute and turn off. There is a code when you turn off 19, knowing that the type of heater is National.
When you say that it works for part of a minute ...
Are you saying that the heater ignites the fuel and you have a flame?
Hello,
Where is that little button on the motherboard for?
Beceause i replaced the room temperature sensor, and now it shows much too low temperature.. Im looking if its possible to recalibrate the sensor..?
@@yl1272 My motherboard has no button.
You can't recalibrate the sensor, because it wouldn't be practical.
Resistance changes with temperature, producing a change in voltage.
So for displaying (say) 20 C the chip requires to see a specific voltage.
Therefore, if it is actually 20 C, but only 17 C is being displayed, the sensor is sending the wrong voltage.
Is the replacement sensor the same spec as the original?
If it is, and you are confident that the temperature is wrong, then you should return the sensor, and try another one.
@@EngineTuning thank you for your reply! I ordered a new sensor and hopfuly this one will show the right temperature.. When i was replacing the sensor i have a litle black button on the motherboard..
@@EngineTuning ( inverter 5727)
@@yl1272 Is it a switch ... can you press it in?
Hello teacher I have a tenki model 4600 stove, it gives me the E6 error. I turn it on, the vendiler works, it does not spark or flame and it throws the E6 error
It could be an electrical failure (E6 error).
Check all connections.
It is possible that a component has failed.
Good luck :)
@@EngineTuning thank you very much teachers
Another I have a tenki 3001 stove, it indicates the empty paraffin tank, the pump and the sensor were changed but the same problem continues, the stove did not work because it indicates the empty paraffin tank
@@wfhg94 These heaters can get very dirty, particularly with old oil, that will become sticky.
You need to check my other video on E4 errors.
It shows how to clean the heater flame rod.
You probably need to clean the fixed reservoir also.
if you turn the heater to the minimom should not make any smoke
Thanks for the comment :)
Sadly, this is not the case when starting the heater.
The operating temperature has no effect on the starting procedure.
The alloy combustion chamber (fuel well) is heated to ignition temperature, the fuel is injected, and it ignites - with a puff of smoke.
I have thought a great deal about this problem.
It is primarily related to the temperature of the gas (after the fuel hits the combustion chamber).
It may be possible to delay ignition... thus allowing the combustion chamber to heat further.
The difficulty will be in modifying the ignition thermostat.
If I find the solution... you will see it announced here :)
Just sharing some knowledge. I have the Inverter 5006 heater in Cyprus and have just started it up ready for winter. Kept getting EH error code. It turns out that this is normal at ambient over 28 degrees Celsius. So there is nothing wrong with the heater it is just to hot for it to work. 3hrs later and with help from Roger Banks at Dry-it-Out Limited who let me know this information. So do not start your heater over 28 degrees celsius as it will not run.
Thank you Undertale Plays for that (very useful) information.
I certainly do not have all the answers.
That nugget of knowledge could be very helpful for anyone who is prepping their heater, prior to the onset of cold weather.
... it was an excellent community contribution.
On behalf of everybody, I will say thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge :)
24 watch the old lights.how do we get the oxygen sensor
Your link doesn't work.
How you can acquire the oxygen sensor in Iran?
... I don't know.
Best wishes for your endeavours :)
Hi يوجد عندي صوبة كورونا كاز والكهرباء فيها مشكلة هوا انه النار قوية جدا ما الحل
There is not enough information
@@EngineTuning can I send you video in your messenger
@@zedonalzobi5857 upload the video, and provide the link in the comment
@@EngineTuning I am upload my video
Fantastik..Hanks..
super pour ma par sa marche avec le tronbonne merci
Melane :)
Hello I have similar heaters models Tectro SRE 1330 C2. They have worked well for several years. Now one after a few minutes of running has a problem. The nice blue flame turns to an orange flickering flame and it smells. I have run two heaters side by side and only this one exhibits the problem so it is not ventilation. I have swapped the fuel tanks so it is not a fuel problem. I have cleaned and swapped the burner. I heave cleaned and swapped the ion sensor. I can only think it might be the main injector pump as i have not tried this yet but this looks a complicated swap which i would prefer not to do... Has anyone an idea what the problem could be. Any help please gratefully received.
Nice 'job report'.
It is clear that you have thought this through, and carried out the testing and maintenance work.
However, when troubleshooting a 'new to you' system, it is possible that you overlooked something fairly simple ... it just didn't get included in the work plan.
Ha! Let's hope so eh? :)
A good method, to overcome this normal occurrence is to restate the problem.
By restating the problem, it reopens the mind that has become closed (having completed the tests).
The problem is:
The fuel is not burning efficiently, due to:
a) Insufficient air supply
b) Excess fuel supply
c) Contaminated fuel
You likely knew this; but by forcing yourself to restate the problem, it forces you to think: this is not a problem with the air supply; in fact it must be insufficient air supply (as a potential cause).
Similarly; excess fuel supply, not less fuel.
Otherwise, it will be contaminated fuel.
For the fuel supply; you've cleaned the flame rod and combustion chamber.
It is less likely that the pump is suddenly pumping too much fuel, as a blockage would be more common.
So put that to one side.
Insufficient air.
Is the air intake fan working (not the heat blower at the back)?
You should be able to hear it.
Is the air intake clear?
That leaves contaminated fuel.
Using your syphon; did you pump out all the old fuel from the fixed reservoir ... and then replace all the old fuel with new, freshly purchased fuel of high quality?
Note: Try to get everything out (even using very strong and absorbent paper towels).
Remember that the last fluid out will be the water, because it is heavier than fuel oil ;)
Tip 1: Add acetone to the fresh fuel @ around 2% mix ... you can drop that to 0.5% to 1% for normal running, to gain a better burn, and more heat, when you turn the heat down.
The acetone will mix in with any remaining water in the system, and greatly reduce the droplet size of the injected fuel (superior vaporisation).
Tip 2: Be careful when filling the tank with the last fuel in the container, as water is often at the bottom of the container ;)
If the container is not see through, then transfer the last bit of fuel to rest in a clear container, and or, use a funnel with a water filter ;)
My gamble would be on the fuel, because you probably didn't clean the old fuel out from last year :D
It could be the intake fan.
Less likely, but you must check.
Good luck :)
@@EngineTuning Hello ET Thank you very much for your suggestions and advice. The large fan on the back of the heater is running fine I think. I held a piece of paper against it and it is pulled onto the grill just as it is in on the good heater. So I discounted the fan, also I am sure there would be an error code if the fan was not running. FYI I am not getting any error codes to help me. Also I mentioned previously I swapped over the fuel reservoirs and the good heater has run for several hours on the bad heaters fuel with no problems. I have emptied the fuel and cleaned as well as I could the sump tank but after a refill the problem was still there. So just to make sure I have done this properly I have done it again. This time I have sucked every dreg using a syringe and wiped with tissues and used some alcohol and now left it for over 24 hours in the warm sunshine with the tank out and facing the Sun. I will try some fresh fuel and try again. I am annoyed that this has come out of the blue or should I say orange... Over the years I have had orange flickering before and a good clean of the burner grill and sensor did the trick. I am puzzled that I do not get an error code or the heater shutting down to show it is not happy with things. Normally I figure things out but after dismantling and re assembling several times with no improvement it gets annoying and frustrating. this is why it is now basking in the sun and I am busy typing........
@@bellesurpriseholidaygite8534 You didn't mention whether you have checked the air intake fan, and checked that the intake is clear.
@@EngineTuning Air intake fan, what do you mean? I might wrongly assume that there is only one fan on my heater(s) the big tin one on the back. Is there another somewhere else? I would be very surprised if there was. can you explain what fan you mean, maybe my heater(s) are different to what you think ua-cam.com/video/gZz36s_ur70/v-deo.html
@@bellesurpriseholidaygite8534 Yes. If you check my first reply, you'll see that I stated 'not the heat blower at the back'.
The air intake fan will either be to the left of the combustion chamber, or beneath it.
You should be able to see the motor attached to an enclosure; within which, is the fan.
The air intake can easily be found - it will have a removable grill (probably).
The output of the fan may be a rubber hose, but could be part of the enclosure.
It feeds the air to the combustion chamber.
The motor has a 'hall effect' sensor, to indicate it's rpm.
This tells the computer, which in turn adjusts the speed to suit the burn conditions.
:)
I have recalibrated both my heaters that look the same as here, I beieive they're Tosaine, but I have a Qlima that needs the same treatment and looks nowhere near the same inside. Can anyone help??
It's difficult Linda, with a completely different design :(
Le radiateur Ruby sre302
fonctionne pendant une heure ou deux, puis un signal de ventilateur apparaît et le radiateur s'éteint. Lorsqu'il est redémarré, il fonctionne pendant quelques minutes et le signal du ventilateur apparaît. Le filtre arrière a été nettoyé et le même problème .
This could be a ventilation CO2 problem.
Is the room small?
You said the heater works for an hour or two.
This indicates that the heater is fully functional.
When you restart the heater; it functions for a few minutes.
This is likely because the 'Stop Condition' has not changed.
Consider ventilating the room :)
@@EngineTuning Merci pour votre réponse. La pièce est très grande. Existe-t-il une solution autre que la ventilation, car lorsque je la déplace sur un Mac plus grand, le même problème persiste
@@alwafimutaz I don't know, because the heater functions for two hours.
If it was overheating, this would have occurred after 30 minutes.
The only obvious problem is insufficient ventilation.
A window should be left slightly open, to allow some 'CO2 rich' air to escape.
This will suck fresh air into the room, if the door to the room is left slightly open.
Basically ... the fire consumes oxygen, so raising the CO2 level in the room.
The CO2 sensor, constantly measures the CO2 level in the air.
If it reaches a trigger point, the heater will switch off and display a ventilation error code.
Therefore, there must be some fresh air entering the room, and some 'CO2 rich' air leaving the room.
It is possible that the CO2 sensor is too sensitive OR ...
It is just doing it's job, by alerting you to too much CO2 in the room.
Obviously this is just an educated guess, but I can't think of any other explanation.
@@EngineTuning Tout ce qui précède est correct. Une dernière demande. Où se trouve le capteur de co2 pour la carte ser302 ?
@@alwafimutaz
ua-cam.com/video/djHI69lIcxo/v-deo.html
Lol thanks for this video. I hope you are well and have not succumbed to any co2. Half way through I thought you might take a hammer or somthing and smash it to kingdom come.! Any how you have inspired me to take it apart and investigate.
Hola, error EC? Sabe cual es?
Sorry, I don't know.
It could be anything - CO2, electrical, flame rod, old fuel, or perhaps it has been knocked.
In these situations, you should describe the history.
Is it the first time you started the heater this year?
Previously, was it working fine?
Did it switch off during operation?
Have you just moved it from storage?
Did it have the old fuel from last year?
The more information that you give, the easier it is to identify the fault.
Flavia, hola. Pudiste averiguar algo del error EC?
The HHH error always appears after every time I reset the Aladdin Akf p326n heater. It works for several minutes and then gives the HHH error again and again, Please help.
*Clearing Errors*
We assume that a request for advice, relates to the first start of the season.
This means that the heater has been used last year, and then put away during the warm months.
Therefore, the heater was working correctly, the last time it was used.
Clean the air intake, and the fuel filter.
Pump all the old fuel out of the fixed reservoir, into a container.
Empty the portable fuel tank into the container.
Fill the tank with fresh fuel.
If you can buy acetone ... add 1% acetone to the fuel (10ml per Litre).
If this doesn't solve the problem, you will need to clean the flame rod (as per the video).
For most people, the heater will now function correctly.
If not, you will need to find a repair centre, who can check the electronics.
If the heater is now working...
Each time you refill the fuel, you can add small quantities of the old fuel to the new fuel.
Adding 1% acetone, will counter any humidity in the fuel, and make the heater burn hotter and cleaner.
Good luck!
@@EngineTuning Although I have cleaned it more than once, I will follow the steps you mentioned, thank you sir.
Thanks for your conseil
:)
Bonjour mon poêle à pétrole fait une explosion au démarrage pourquoi merci
It is not possible for me to provide a definitive answer.
However...
An explosion would occur, if you used petrol as the fuel, instead of pétrole.
Pétrole is French for paraffin or refined kerosene - a very light oil.
Petrol is a highly volatile fuel.
It gives off an inflammable gas at room temperature.
If petrol was injected into the pre-heated combustion chamber, an explosion would definitely occur when the sparker was activated.
Can we talk about toyotomy flares xplain.master
Toyotomi heaters are not covered in this series of videos.
You will need to search the internet ... there is plenty of information and diagrams.
what does ed mean ?? it won t start and stating this!!!
Hi Melissa ... I have not come across this error code.
Consequently, you need to tell me the error circumstances.
Is this the first start of the season?
When was the heater last used?
Are you starting the heater with old fuel?
When does the error occur?
... by this I mean : You plug it in, and press the start button
... what happens next (passage of time)?
Other than that, you should :
- Drain the fuel tank into an empty container
- Clean the fuel filter
- Using the tube syphon, pump out as much of the old fuel as possible from the fixed fuel tank (beneath the filter)
- Refill the fuel tank with newly purchased fuel (the correct grade).
.... be careful not to take the water that is often at the bottom of the purchased fuel container.
(It could be that you have water in the heater system)
Make sure that the heater is level.
Try starting the heater repeatedly - start - error -switch off - start etc. (repeat six times)
If it finally starts, you can gradually mix the old fuel with the new, each time it needs a refill.
You can also buy a litre of acetone, and add 50ml of Acetone to 5 Lt of fuel.
This will absorb any water, and the fuel will burn cleaner and hotter (so it pays for itself).
You can also buy a funnel with a water filter - check before purchasing that the funnel does not allow water to pass ;)
This one should work www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tractor-Funnel-with-Water-Separating-Filter-Heavy-Duty-Funnel-OIL-TF/352309765511?
If these steps don't work, then you will need to service the heater.
See this play list ua-cam.com/play/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa.html
You will need to follow the 'Easy Fix' video.
Good luck ... report back ;)
:)
I have a heator 740 tc and error E2,help me please
Hello Francisc :)
The E2 error indicates possible 'water in the fuel' - reduced combustion.
You will need to drain the fixed fuel tank (below the fuel transportable reservoir)
Do this, using the plastic pump siphon that you probably have.
Pump this fuel into a container, and empty the transportable reservoir also into this container.
Replace with fresh fuel.
If you can ... add 1 % acetone to the new fuel.
This will mix with any remaining water, and will cause the heater to burn cleaner.
This acetone mix is highly cost efficient, as you get more heat from the fuel that you burn.
Also, it will clean up the combustion chamber.
Best wishes, and good luck :)
المروحة تطفئ لوحدها بعد تشغيل المدفئة بفترة قليلة
لماذا
The short answer is:
I do not know why the fan turns off, after turning on the heater.
The long answer is:
There are a number of reasons why an electric motor might stop working.
Annoyingly, the person who can identify the reason, will be an electronics technician, who will charge you money for his time.
Sometimes in life, you must resort to a specialist technician.
This is how they make money and feed their family, so it is not all bad.
:)
Dear sir hello
I have a problem with my mitsubishi kerosene fan heater model Kd-32d4-n shwin F2 problem
What do you think about it would you help me if you have email i can send you picture of the light which turn on
The thing to understand is...
I already help people with their problems.
I'm happy to help people.
However, you need to list the failure fault (in detail).
Then, I can help you, and others :)
very well thank you
Merci Maitre Fil :)
exelent!!! thanks!!
Great news!
Thanks for the feedback
it failed again, I made the bridge to cancel the sensor and now it does not give the error but it also shuts down
you can help?
HHHH4 how to repair it
I do not recognise that error code.
Try servicing the heater.
Here is the playlist:
ua-cam.com/video/djHI69lIcxo/v-deo.html
domage la video et pas en francaise g meme probleme co2 tout demonter nettoyer remonter et encor co2 son pontage de fil et bien mes demage c pas en francais
Er ... Mike .... J'ai fait de mon mieux avec les sous-titres français.
J'ai passé des heures.
S'ils sont mauvais ... alors dites-le.
S'ils sont mauvais ... alors désolé ... J'ai échoué.
Mais ne dites pas que je n'ai pas essayé.
Ce n'est pas juste du tout;)
Plus ... FFS combien de personnes passent les heures pour traduire en français? ... laissez-moi vous dire ... ce n'est pas facile.
ET
BTW
Je sais que c'est un gros problème en France.
C'est pourquoi je l'ai traduit.
Veuillez reconsidérer votre opinion ;)
Adjast pomp cruna ples sar
Thank you for your comment.
I am having difficulty in translating its meaning.
o bhaii koii urdu ma bTay k heTer thk krny ka tarikA
bar bar band hojata ha is ka hAl kya h
urdu
उपशीर्षक का चयन करने का प्रयास करें।
गियर पिनियन पर क्लिक करें।
ऑटो-ट्रांसलेट का चयन करें।
मुझे उम्मीद है कि यह आपके लिए काम करेगा।
upasheershak ka chayan karane ka prayaas karen.
giyar piniyan par klik karen.
oto-traansalet ka chayan karen.
mujhe ummeed hai ki yah aapake lie kaam karega
Or buy a carbon monoxide detector..I had purchased mine for off grid purposes so the electronics are of no use to me
Not really an 'or' but more of a direct safety requirement ;)
jamais vu un narvalo pareil, lol .
Narwhal?
Small whale with a unicorn tusk?
A Dude?
Crazy person?
Despicable person?
LOL spit it out!
amigos es un
En français,c'est pas possible????
+Christelle Gomez
Oh Christelle!
Comment était la traduction?
Est-ce compréhensible?
Je passais des heures sur le texte.
Je vis en France, et je sais que beaucoup de Français ont cet appareil de chauffage.
Donc heureux si la vid vous a aidé.
I hate those one cut video's, ...........
Hahaha ... I know what you mean ... hahaha :)
Funnily enough, 3 days ago, James Bowler left a comment that was the direct opposite of yours.
You just can't please everyone.
For myself, I'm happy enough with it ... at least it is short duration, scraping in at just under 15 minutes.
That's pretty damned good for a fairly complex educational video ;)
Anyway; thanks for taking the time to make the comment - at least it brings a smile to the face :)
Do you mean CO or CO2? Big difference! CO2 highly unlikely to kill you!!! Carbon Monoxide or CO is very different!
codprawn That actually a CO2 dioxide sensor and a NDIR “nondispersive infrared” sensor. That arc looking plastic is the light guide for the infrared sensor. CO monoxide is only a issue on a non complete cycle of combustion, which is really not a issue with these type of heaters
It is the high level of CO2 carbon dioxide you have to worry about and water vapor. You need a good CO2 meter that has NDIR (Non-Dispersive Infrared) waveguide technology to test. You know if CO2 levels are high if you get headaches. Easy to solve with proper ventilation. You get carbon monoxide from incomplete combustion." Plus most these heater will shut down due to lack of oxygen. A lot more that most get confused.
Yes CO monoxide can die from poisoning and Asphyxiation.
Actually c02 will kill faster than co.
@@ol6374 No it backwards a small amount of PPM of CO monoxide will kill you faster.
Stop talking rubbish. You need 40,000ppm of CO2 to kill you compared to 800ppm for CO.
complement con
What is a complement con ?
est-ce français?
Ah lengua española ?
"with compliments" :)
sí ?
¿Qué más?
Great effort
Thanks Richard :)