Battery Tray, Frame Rail, Floor Pan (Pt.4 Final) - Datsun Z Rebuild Episode 24
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- 4th and final part to fixing up all the rust on the battery tray, frame rail, and floor pan.
Watch the full playlist: • Datsun Z Frame-Up Rest...
Loving the progress. This is going to be a fun car that you will cherish and enjoy for years to come
Hey bro love how meticulous you are when you work ,,BUT watching this video on replacing floor pans and sub rails,,,Why Didn't you treat the internals of everything you where closing up. If it was me been there done that .., I made sure nothing can work its way out from the inside,,USE WELD THRU PRIMER WHEREVER YOU WORK
cheers
Keep up the great content and the good work. I’m sure seeing this Z being built is like therapy for alot of folks, including me.😁
Don't worry about breaking the window, just cut the rubber off with a knife and some wd40. There should be no pressure on the glass if you do it this way. Run the blade parallel with the glass on the inside edge of the outer side of the screen. Cut away and simply lift the glass.
So I've just caught up on every episode of this playlist, having been looking for a detailed frame up resto of a Z for a while now, and man, I love your work!
The level of detail is fantastic and I especially like that you highlight your mistakes and learning curves instead if glossing over them.
One question though: if you could go back, with the benefit of hindsight, would you just acid dip it from the start and try to patch everything up or are you glad you did the chopping, exposed the hidden horrors, and now known that the structural stuff you fixed is sound?
Your commitment is just amazing. Tearing the car apart and do all the sheet metal, cutting, and grinding stuff which is demotivating is such an accomplishment!! Well done, congrats.
I've finalized the repair of my 610 L18 motor last week, some of the hints got them from your videos.
Keep up the good content
The panel hole tool does that also do the flanges?
You're doing a great job bro.
how did you comment so fast lol thanks for the support!!
@@RestorationForBeginners I was on cell,,and your video came up ,,so I went there quick to watch the new content,,,I was working on my Z also on the garage at the same time,,,,you're in the bay area? Cali?
@@3rd-eye-neenja563 Nah, in NC, near Raleigh. Haha I couldn't afford this garage in the bay area man
now i regret watching you ..... lol .... at this point i just want to say ..... bring it to a professional .... lol .... but now i understand why your channel is called restoration for beginners .... lol .... it makes me want to laugh and cry for you ..... the pain .... lol
Good shit, I've been waiting for another upload!
Hey man great work! Some great resto inspiration! If you plan on painting the car and installing brand new windscreen seals don’t bother paying someone to remove the glass just get a sharp blade and cut the outer rubber then lift out. Same with the rear hatch
Do t hire someone to remove the windshield. That’s the easiest part compared to what you have already done. Take a razor blade and cut the weatherstripping out of the way. The glass is pretty light and you can lift it right out.
Haha my buddy tried to take his out himself and cracked it... he's been looking for an affordable replacement for months. Are you sure it'll just come right out?
@@RestorationForBeginners yup. They aren’t glued. Cut the outer part of the weatherstripping all the way out of your way and start gently pushing from the inside in various spots. It’ll come out easily.
@@RestorationForBeginners I removed my 280Z by myself, other than I had a friend help me lift it out. No issues. Also, SafeLite Autoglass carries 240/260/280Z glass!
Also, I used dental floss. I cut into a corner with a razor blade, fished some floss through to the inside, and then drug it all the way around.
I cut mine out too. Easy work. You need to just cut the outside part covering the glass. I did it myself, and my rubber was stone hard.
Came across your channel. Wow amazing channel. What settings do you use on your welder? Just beginning my restromod 240z and have never done sheetmetal. TIA
for sheet metal? setting 2, wirespeed 4ish on my welder, dont know what that translates to in terms of actual voltage :(
Thank you. Keep up the great work!!! Your videos are very informative and easy to understand.
I love these videos, thanks for keeping us up to date!
Funny that you comment on the hammer, exactly when many of us are likely wondering why you haven't bought a proper dead blow already. Nice work, very methodical. Many of your welds look like you are putting too much heat into it for the gauge steel used, really shouldn't be so much bluing spread. I'd imagine you've come along way since this was done though.
Whery good to follow you 👍.. I have a datsun kb110 full of rust and and have decided to try welding myself. Never welded 😜, but watching your videos I'm optimistic that I'll get it done... I probably won't be nearly as careful as you..
The front screens are real easy to take out dude. Pull the trim out that sits in the rubber then take a blade and cut off the rubber lip that fold over the glass then just lift the glass out
I actually love watching the 'boring welding and grinding' lol
Do the windows yourself, it's very easy with this old style weather trim and there are videos on UA-cam to walk you through the process, but you basically just use a utility knife and cut the rubber around the window and use a glass suction cup from Amazon and you're done.
Just sand blast it it's wayyyyyy WAYYYY cheaper.
I have done both . If you acid dip it , you will have acid in joints you can not get to.
Which will continue to eat in all the non reach able and non see able inner panels.
Only acid dip it, if the have an over to bake out all the acid !
Which MOST acid bath shops DO NOT have. They just hose/ pressure was with water , creating rust in areas your car doesn't even have.
You just finished taking the rust out.
Now sand blast the car.
Prime the car, paint the car.
Use 2k bedliner like raptor.
Under the entire chassis. And in the wiper motor tray.
That area never got paint from the day it was born.
It's a tray of water , leafs, pin straw, dead bugs .You want to be sure. That wiper motor tray area is entirely primed painted and bedliner it WATER tight .
Not acid Dip !!! Save money ( alot )
After ist painted and you re blow out all the sand in ever hole you see back and forth then use EAST WOOD inner frame anti rust spray and long application wand to pump good coverage of anti rust in all closed/ boxed frame members .
Gone for months? Wow. What kind of special tools or techniques do they have that beat Min determination/OCD? You may have a drug addicted car if you send it on an acid trip. Get it in writing that it is NOT LSD. If it is, your car will never drive straight again, but it may be good for time travel and trips that you could never imagine. :-)
Did the 240z project stop?! I can't use your rebuild as a guide for my rebuild without you! I'll donate, just keep it up!
Will you just look at you GO! In such a professional manner.
You are going to get Z people
Paying you to rebuild their Z cars. " Why not you have the space, the tools and now the talent " BANG !!!
I feel like frame rails and floor pans are some major steps. Getting closer!
Does the acid dipping place also add some sort of rust protection coating? You should definitely do something to protect the inside of those frame rails and such. Looks good, nice work!
Mate I watch restoration projects with work similar to yours with rail replacements that didn't needed to be replaced and these guys have drilled into the sub rails and inserted this anti corrosive spray to limit deterioration but you had yours open and you didn't take any precautions to protect the inner steel. Do you think if you welded a steel box together with all that heat that moisture wouldn't happen
You are doing an excellent job! I'm working on a 280z myself.
I rebuilt an a161a galant sigma 1984
Mint condition
Bud watching what you are doing is exactly what nissan did back in the 70's ...didn't worry about anti rust issues
The blue on the car is the same color I had on my 1973 Datsun with a black & white interior. I owned it from 1977 to 1980. It totaled from behind at a stop light following my dad in his car. Then I bought a 1980 Mazda Rx7 4 speed. Now I am back wanting a newer version of my 73.
I hope by the end of June I will have one.
Hey brother that’s no mess at all. Looks great. Enjoying the progress.
Good video. Really love it.
Thanks for these vids!
You are getting soo much better with fab and welding, remember your first day at your job, it got better after that, I wish you would have got the car dipped in the beginning, would have saved a lot of elbow grease, keep up the great work.
Thanks man, thanks for continuing to tune in. It's a shame that I'm only now kind of decent at this, because I'm moving on from fabrication
YESSSSSS MORE VIDEOSSSSSS
I want to buy a welder
Love the way this is turning out.
You're doing a great job 👏 👍 🙌 👌.
Also already take the glass out of my 77 280z and is not a big deal, all you do is cut the rubber around, is something simple.
Also get a replacement al junk yard because my hase bubbles on the bottom, and take my 15 minutes to remove.
Great job.
Damn that came out great. Quick update on my car. I haven’t done much yet except clean it like crazy, clean and prepare the garage, buy more tools and meet with a few tech guys that work in nascar about engines and how much I will need to reinforce the frame to handle the hp. Well I guess that’s a lot but I don’t want to start tear down until all my ducks are in a row. Anyway we have to figure out a way to DM so I can come check out the garage. Peace, stay safe
I can't wait to see this thing come back from the acid bath. Well done on all of this!! Building it back up is going to be so satisfying.
Keep it up
Epic
Won't acid dipping burn the primer on the inside of the sills/frame rails/pillars etc off? The car would end up rusting from the inside out I'd think if it is dipped.
I'd basically need to reapply them afterwards. There are specialized spray cans with with extended nozzles you can use to re-coat those areas.
@@RestorationForBeginners Nice - glad to hear that's doable
Excited to see whats left after the acid dip! Hopefully not too much Swiss cheese is revealed.
Eyyyyyyyyyy
You work too hard, but I like it. Keep on making videos k
Awesome man! Keep going. It's fun to see a video every now and then
Looking great! This is a huge milestone!
I wonder if, once you add up all the tools and materials (not to mention time), it doesn't make more sense to spend a couple more grand on a better body? Honest question. I think you're doing something great 👍
I think the biggest reason is that this particular body has his hundreds if not thousands of hours of work on it. Plus, I don't think you would be able to find a true rust free example (mint behind every weld and cavity) unless you buy a fully restored show car that had the works. I don't think you can buy remanufactured body structures for something like this (but I have been wrong before).
looking good brother keeping going