NEXT LEVEL Astrophotography with my Dual Barrel Frankenscope!
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- My Patreon: / cuivlazygeek
My Merch Store: cuiv.myspreads...
Dual Barrel Frankenscope components:
Initial video: • I built a Double Barre...
WarpAstron WD-20 Mount: bit.ly/3wxNbGI
Aliexpress cheap dual dovetail: s.click.aliexp...
Apertura CarbonStar with coma corrector: bit.ly/3W7ZFiA
SW Quattro 150P Budget Newt: bit.ly/3BABCxl
Proper dual dovetail: tinyurl.com/4r...
Scope adjuster: tinyurl.com/36...
TOUPTEK IMX571 APS-C Cooled camera: tinyurl.com/mr...
TOUPTEK IMX585 Cooled camera: tinyurl.com/4y...
OGMA versions (use code CUIV on checkout for a small discount!): getogma.com/
ZWO 2600MC Duo: bit.ly/3Jti7KQ (HPS) or bit.ly/3M8IkPS (Agena) or tinyurl.com/22... (FLO)
ZWO ASI585 MC Pro Camera: bit.ly/3Iwo6y8 (Agena) or bit.ly/4cp1Ofn (HPS) or tinyurl.com/43... (FLO)
USB to 12V cable: amzn.to/4b7VyY2
Affiliate Links
Amazon affiliate: amzn.to/49XTx01
Agena affiliate: bit.ly/3Om0hNG
High Point Scientific affiliate: bit.ly/3lReu8R
First Light Optics affiliate: tinyurl.com/yx...
All-Star Telescope affiliate: bit.ly/3SCgVbV
Astroshop.eu Affiliate: tinyurl.com/2va...
Dwarf 2 Smart Telescope: bit.ly/3SyChXua
Seestar S50: tinyurl.com/3n...
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My equipment
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ZWO Seestar S50: tinyurl.com/3n...
TOUPTEK IMX571 APS-C Cooled camera: tinyurl.com/mr...
TOUPTEK IMX585 Cooled camera: tinyurl.com/4y...
OGMA versions (use code CUIV on checkout for a small discount!): getogma.com/
SW Quattro 150P Budget Newt: bit.ly/3BABCxl
Backyard Universe upgrade kit: tinyurl.com/3j...
OCAL Collimator: s.click.aliexp... or s.click.aliexp...
Askar V Modular Telescope: bit.ly/3Imoq2M
or bit.ly/3GLuyR8 or tinyurl.com/2h...
ZWO AM5 Mount: bit.ly/3Qb5xVf or bit.ly/3JeVUkn
MiniGuideScope: bit.ly/3MyUJhn
Antlia ALP-T highspeed filter: bit.ly/42RBR2e
Celestron C6: bit.ly/3ocePVs
Hyperstar C6: starizona.com/...
Mini Computer (newer version): amzn.to/49XTx01
AstroPC Pro: astro-gadget.n...
Flocking paper/Felt paper: amzn.to/3zASgvu or amzn.to/3m94zwa
Follow me!
My Instagram: / cuivlazygeek
My Facebook page: / cuivlazygeek
My Patreon: www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek
My Merch Store: cuiv.myspreadshop.com/
Dual Barrel Frankenscope components:
Initial video: ua-cam.com/video/166AxhdrScI/v-deo.html
WarpAstron WD-20 Mount: bit.ly/3wxNbGI
Aliexpress cheap dual dovetail: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEnP1Wr
Apertura CarbonStar with coma corrector: bit.ly/3W7ZFiA (too bad I had messed with the primary and forgotten to recollimate)
SW Quattro 150P Budget Newt: bit.ly/3BABCxl
Proper dual dovetail: tinyurl.com/4rx8j435
Scope adjuster: tinyurl.com/3625nvuv
TOUPTEK IMX571 APS-C Cooled camera: tinyurl.com/mr2yhvcw
TOUPTEK IMX585 Cooled camera: tinyurl.com/4y9dz774
OGMA versions (use code CUIV on checkout for a small discount!): getogma.com/
ZWO 2600MC Duo: bit.ly/3Jti7KQ (HPS) or bit.ly/3M8IkPS (Agena) or tinyurl.com/2227k637 (FLO)
ZWO ASI585 MC Pro Camera: bit.ly/3Iwo6y8 (Agena) or bit.ly/4cp1Ofn (HPS) or tinyurl.com/43h2pbx9 (FLO)
USB to 12V cable: amzn.to/4b7VyY2
Affiliate Links
Amazon affiliate: amzn.to/49XTx01
Agena affiliate: bit.ly/3Om0hNG
High Point Scientific affiliate: bit.ly/3lReu8R
First Light Optics affiliate: tinyurl.com/yxd2jkr2
All-Star Telescope affiliate: bit.ly/3SCgVbV
Astroshop.eu Affiliate: tinyurl.com/2vafkax8
You giving this guy advice? LOL!
Use shims in one of the dovetail clamps to change alt and/or az of that dovetail clamp. Fit shim at one end of the dovetail or between the dovetail and one side of the clamp. coke can ring pulls work well 😊 or cooking foil folded!
I was going to say that! Glad someone did. Sometimes old school tech is the best solution.
I gotta say it sounds like a lot of work to find just the right thickness, but it could work! But with the dovetails being so narrow, the side shim may be an issue, I don't think there's much tolerance to include one. I'll have a look - but I'll also try an XY stage that I found on Aliexpress!
Also, new word (and tool) learned: a feeler gauge... Dang I am terrible at anything mechanical or DIY!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek yeah, I was actually thinking a set of feeler gauges would work. they come arranged in increments of .001 inch in the US. Not sure about ROW metric increments.
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Feeler gauge like what you get an an automotive store. It is a tool with a series of small petals or blades that are marked with their thickness in mm or inches and used to gap spark plugs. Ask the clerk, they will know.
@@CuivTheLazyGeek haha! You’re not old enough Cuiv! I used a feeler gauge to set the “points” in my first cars. That was in the days before electronic ignition.
First! 😜 Looking forward to watching this when I'm home mate! Always appreciate your massive effort putting these vids out 👍👍
CS!
Thanks so much mate, enjoy the watch! And thanks for your massive efforts too, you rock! :) CS!
Nice final image! What would the difference have been if you used Image Integration rather than Pixel Math to combine the five masters? I realize you down weighted the "old Image" due to quality but I am not sure what image integration would have done differently.
By default Image Integration just does a similar average, but with the same weight for each submaster - now subframe selector with weights and then image integration is also a good idea!
fantastic image am semi retireing to a bortle 0+ or bortle 1- near perfect sky inland from karatane south island new zealand north of Dunedin 76 mcgrath road waikouati am going to set up tourist observatory 1 c11 and 1 rasa 11 hopefully by end of year if the money holds out 🙂
Oh my word, that sounds like the perfect semi-retirement! You'll get a better result in one minute of imaging!!
Lol I was getting excited when you were getting ready to explain how you align both scopes to each other until 1:39... 😢
Sorry about that :D A lot of people suggest some shims, using things like the leaves from a feeler gauge! Once I get to it, I'll make a quick video about it :)
someone tested if you can join several masterlights from several nights.. his conclusion was it is not working. massive difference between stacking all images at once compared to joining 4 of them. Maybe you find time to do the same comparison in the future.
It depends on how it's done though - each frame has a different quality and different integration time. If you respect the respective weights of each master, you should be getting a very similar results.
The average of (1, 8, 7, 6, 3, 2, 9, 3) is 4.875, And the average of 1,8,7,6 is 5.5, while the average of 3,2,9,3 is 4.25. Then the average of 5.5,4.25 is.... drumroll... 4.875! But do this with uneven sets, and you need to do a weighted average on your masters! This is why joining masters together will work just as well (or almost just as well), as long as relative imaging time (and ideally quality) weights are respected. But great idea for a comparison!
Some result that for your first attempt Cuiv. Very impressive.
I'm sure that the Frankenscope will produce some awesome images of nebulae too.
Are you just using the Stellarmate as a power hub and dew heater controller, or are you using it as part of the control set up? ( Mine seems to be full of glitches, keeps freezing up for no obvious reason requiring a complete shutdown and reboot to clear and I haven't even got round to testing the auto focus, polar align and plate solving yet. Very disappointing as I actually quite like it apart from that.)
Yes, for now the SM is a power hub, because as far as I know it doesn't support dual scopes with synchronized dithering! That's a shame about the stability of yours... in the app there's a button to update it, have you tried this? Yes I've seen glitches with it as I mentioned in my video, but not that many...
A galaxie from Bortle 9? That is incredible...good job Ciuv!!!!
It was a lot of work! Cheers Carlos!
Amazing First Light Cuiv! You're really pushing hard that I realize my Franken-Apo. 😁Still thinking if I afford the Askar 103 with the 0.6 reducer to get down to 420mm or if I use a 90mm Apo with a 0.8 reducer from the same series of telescopes like my 70mm. The Askar and my Apo would be 12mm in focal lengh apart and the 90mm TS CF would be a perfect match in focal lengh.
Is there any specific reason why you have chosen Pixel Math to combine the images and not Fast Integration? Maybe you can share some more details how you have determined the way forward for you.
I could see some others already suggested shims or foil to put between the clamp and the dove tail. I would try it with just a hand full layers of aluminum foil. Due to the distance of the objects the angle of adjustment is so tiny that even with a few millimeters of space in between the telescopes there is more than enough.
The Quattro and the Touptek camera have a resolution of 1.29" per pixel and the whole frame is 2.23x1.5 degrees. With this information you can do a good estimate how much the scope needs to be shifted. It is maybe around 30 minutes of angle in Az. With thin washers, this gauge that you have found or maybe 8-10 layers of aluminum foil should work out easily.
Once I have my Franken-Apo completed I will have to go through the same exercise. I will also use the cheapo clamp system like you or would you assume that I am going to pay 250 Euro for a double dove tail clamp? 250 bucks is an EAF for the new telescope. 😂
/Martin
Thanks Martin! Good luck on your FrankenAPO! :) I didn't want to use Fast integration because I wanted the frame weightings! In Tokyo I don't think I can do without weights...
And yes the shims should work! But they look like a pain to use with the saddles I have!
I loved this experiment with the Frankenscope. The result was very nice. You'd never know it was imaged in Tokyo.
Thanks! It was a lot of fun!
This is awesome. Im still waiting for a clear night to test my dual barrel setup, made up of 2 x 66mm refractors. Hyperthetically do you think 2 x F4 scope will produce a better image than 1x F2 scope everything else being equal?
That's something I don't really have the answer to! But I know for sure that the F2 scopes we have definitely seem to have less sharp stars and details than Newts, even at equivalent focal lengths!
Hey Cuiv! I never seen M63 so bright before from light polluted skies! It's almost like you created a mini interferometry setup using the 2 scopes in tandem well done!
Thanks Dave!! I'm not sure it works that way but it makes me want to look into it :p
Even though I am a retired engineer and used to be an amateur astronomer 40 years ago, though eye/visual only, no photography, I get lost when I watch your fascinating videos. I can follow along a bit because you explain things, but your knowledge on the subject of astrophotography, including image processing, is amazing! How you can do these things from Tokyo is nothing short of a miracle. Do you ever take dark sky excursions or camping trips?
Yeah cuiv must have some sort of superpower to fight the light pollution.
Oh wow this is high praise! Thank you so much! I do take some dark sky excursions, but most end up in failure due to weather :) So I like being on my little balcony!
I feel young the weather part. Texas has been hammered by weather this month. It's insane
@@CuivTheLazyGeek I've always wanted to ask, but never did because it's really none of my business, but what the heck are you doing in Tokyo anyway?! 🙂
It was a woman... :p
Question Cuiv. Would it have been better to have integrated 8 sub-master images and then reintegrated the 8 these to form the final copy rather than pixel maths. I think the statistical value for each pixel would have been closer to stacking all 2400 subs at one go than that of pixel math route? BUT this is well beyond my mathematical/statistical level of knowledge. Great video as ever and thanks ☺️
In theory, assuming the relative weights of the sub masters are respected, it should be the same. BUT with an additional integration, including subframe measurements, then you get automated weighting, so it would have been interesting to see! I'll have a look :)
Many thanks. That's my expectation, just trying to carve out sufficient time to make a proper start and keep the senior moments to a minimum :).
Hope you get the time to get to it :)
I would get some brass shim stock in different thicknesses. You can buy assortment packages of it for cheap.
Thanks! Someone suggested feeler gauge leaves as well!
You're several steps ahead of me but I was hoping to do this for the nebula season and use the Askar C1 on one scope and the C2 on the other scope. Do you think that has potential to work?
Absolutely! Capture Ha, OIII, and SII all in one go!
Thanks Cuiv never knew you can add masters together to get decent results in pixel math does the weighting need to add up to something for it to work? Thanks
I prefer to make sure the weights add up to 1, so I don't saturate pixels!
Cuiv nice video and good shot. Could you share the specs of your computer system and perhaps the specs of your dream computer?
My processing computer? Ryzen 5800X, RTX3080Ti, 32GB or RAM. Ideally I'd want the 7800X and 64GB DDR4 RAM, better motherboard, and 10TB disk space :)
It might be intriguing to take a 3-d photo of Andromeda Galaxy !
Unfortunately that's not going to work! Andromeda (or even most stars in our own galaxy) are much too far away for 3D effect - the two scopes are effectively parallel to one another :)
@@CuivTheLazyGeekHow many astronomical units in length 9f base line do you think it would take to get a 3d image of Andromeda?
You can use thin brass shims to help align your two telescopes. Just add a small piece of shim to the saddle in between the dovetail clamp at one end or side and the rail.
I may indeed try this! :)
You should have enough play in the individual mounting plates to adjust. For altitude just use washers..
It's been tough to be honest - I'll be playing with this some more!
i know you tinker quite a bit ... use toothpicks 😂
in theory you won't scuff the skywatchers metal tube 😊
Aha, toothpicks! Good idea as well! Someone else suggested the leaves from a feeler gauge as well!
I'm gonna have to mortgage my house to do something like this but I live in a very remote part of Montana I can't wait to try it
Oh if you're under such dark skies, a humble star tracker (or even a barndoor tracker) with a DSLR should already give you amazing results! No need to mortgage the house :)
Cuiv, What an amazing image. Pretty cool Frankenscope setup. Inspires me to finally dive into PI this summer. Awesome.
Woohoo, you're going to struggle with PI, hate it for a bit, then it will click and it will be the best thing you've ever used. Enjoy the rollercoaster!
Great project and entertaining and informative as usual. However, my view is that it is much simpler and more flexible to run two mounts - dare I say lazier😮. No issues of alignment and can shoot the same or different targets. I have 2 x AM5s for this reason. Current preferred imaging systems 2 x Samyang 135/ 2600mm. Will buy a second redcat at some point and so on…… Cheers, Des
Oh yes I agree! But there is something so inherently geeky about a dual barrel scope :p
I watched your previous video and suggest you use a machinist's square to get the dovetail mounts in parallel, then shim as another watcher suggests to align them in the vertical. I used a setup like this (using all William Optics parts and an RST-135E) with a RedCat61 on one side and a Canon EOS Ra and 70-200mm zoom on the other during TSE 2024. I have since replaced the camera with a Tak Mewlon 180c, so it _really_ looks like a Franken-scope. One side (with ASIAIR+ for the brains and ASI2600MC Duo) is set up for AP and goto and the other for observation. I like it, but I get lots of head scratching from fellow club members :)
Hahaha I love the scope you describe!! The head scratching is worth it!
Could you move one mirror slightly out of perfect collimation to align them?
I thought about it, but then it would be massively out of collimation unfortunately....
Great result Cuiv!👍The final image has a very impressive level of detail for a 150mm obstructed system.👍Furthermore, the large amount of data guaranteed that each point in the frame was thoroughly sampled by R, G & B pixels. Overall, having so much data really solidified the colours & enabled more aggressive processing to attack gradients, camera & sky background noise & the effects of atmospheric seeing....all of which resulted in a great image! 👍
Thanks so much Derek, and that's a great summary! Cheers!
This is where you use Gain 0 for longer exposures and more sanity. 🤣
Of for Touptek, switch to LCG :)
Wow, a lot to learn. Just started astrophotography with Asair eco system.
ASIAir works great as long as you keep things simple and within specs! So ZWO only + not too long focal lenghts, and definitely not dual scopes - but within those constraints it should really work amazing for you :)
Looks like a SAM (Surface to air missile launcher)
Yes haha! In fact the thumbnail to my previous video on this scope was precisely this :p
Maybe it's a little jank, but couldn't you just shim the dovetails with something. Maybe you could sacrifice a set of feeler guages to slip in there while tightening it down.
On the aiming front, ADM makes a couple "alt-az aiming" devices that should just plop in where one of your saddles is. The "ADM mini-max" is one of them. Haven't used them personally, and I think they are a little bit overpriced, but it or the larger variant may be what you need for a few degrees of adjustment.
For combining them, you’ll get a better resulting using local normalization on the masters to match them (or normalize scale gradients script) and the combining with ImageIntegration, default settings, no rejection, normalization field added.
Thanks for the tip! Although with that method there would not be any relative weighting of the submasters right?
@@CuivTheLazyGeek It will actually weight the frames using the PSF Signal Weight evaluation method, and it seems to do a rather excellent job in a case like this. :)
Love the story, even though I will never build a dual scope setup. Just one question: why 30 second exposures?
Because of the light pollution in Tokyo! Longer exposures like 120s start really pushing it, although probably the better compromise!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Back in the days when I did (still) landscape photography, the holy grail was ETTR, Expose to the right (of the histogram) The idea is to set the exposure time to a level where the exposure is about to clip the highlights. Then in postprocessing you would crank back the exposure to get the right image. The big advantage of this technique is much less noise. When I started in Astrophotography I initially did the same. You get very bright skies in your pictures (like the Tokyo nightsky?). But in post you can bring that back to a decent dark sky with much less noise. I wonder if you could do something similar in Tokyo?
Great video, Cuiv, always something new to learn from you!!
Thanks!
If you had 2 newts of the same diameter but different focal lengths ( F4 and F5) could they be used like this ?
Yes! These are f3.8 and f3.5!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek FFS Cuiv you had one job to do. " No Bill", "Stop your telescope hoarding Bill", "Your telescopes are killing your family Bill". Oh well, time to get another camera I guess.
Super interesting project even though context was challenging (largest city in the world, telescope optical center, not pointing the same region, etc...)
A method of aligning dual scopes is to use a dovetail with a slot across the width rather than a hole for the side to side adjustment and, you can also use the push pull arrangement of bolts on the skywatcher dovetail for the up down adjustment
If you can find a friendly local engineering shop you may be able to get them to modify the original skywatcher dovetail by opening one of the holes to a slot, for more precise adjustment a couple of drilled and tapped holes that intersect the slot could be used to make fine adjustments
This is so cool as an idea and it feels so out of reach for someone like me, with no mechanical or DIY skills :) That's one of the things about Japan, I have no idea how to find friendly local engineering shops. But actually since releasing this video I've found a cheap pointing adjuster on Aliexpress so I'll be testing that first :)
I suggest publishing the guest list so that later they don't say they didn't know about the final experiment.
I think as usual you love to overcomplicate everything :))) - I am fine with the good old Sharpcap and Photoshop...
the point of 2 scopes on the same mount is to have them barely overlap so you can get huge dual panel images after processing. using them to capture double the data is smart too but id be taking advantage of the FOV 1:55
Looks awesome! Can't wait to hear about the cable issue!
Thanks! And that will come soon :)
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I love watching the process even though I don't understand most of it lol
Glad I'm making it enjoyable at least! :p
Well, 50MB*2480= 124000MB, or about 121GB. So, I’m not sure how PixInsight generates all the temporary files, but I don’t know that it would be measured in more than one TB total.
It generates calibrated files (somehow 100MB each) then debayered files (three times larger) then measured files and registered files :) It ends up definitely being more than 1TB!
Geek you're crazy, but I love you and your videos! Amazing stuff! Duel telescopes hooked together, what a concept?!!! Very cool!
Thanks so much! Hey crazy but fun :) Cheers!
Nice image! As others have said, just shim one end of the telescope barrel to match the alignment of the other. You can shim both barrels opposite directions to make up for even more mismatch if needed... I would not use an x-y micrometer stage due to the additional point of slop to get blown around by your rooftop windy nights.
I gotta say the shims look like an interesting way to achieve the result, but with the terrible saddles I got from Aliexpress I'm not sure it's going to work great. But I'll have a try!
When i heard you image in Tokyo i was amazed! I started the astrophotography journey (also with a quattro 150p) 4 months ago and in a relatively bright city (melbourne australia). I get almost no nebula images even with hours of imaging. So cool to watch this video and see how this beast of a setup turns out!
Oh yeah I feel your pain! City astrophotographers unite!
Great video Cuiv, love your content and enthusiasm…can I ask why you had a Stellarmate pro and a Mini PC mounted on the duo, as I thought the Stellarmate did everything as well as power all your kit…?
I don't think the SM Pro can do synchronized dithering on a single mount! Maybe I'm wrong, but for that NINA seemed the way to go!
Thank you so much for doing deep dives into a variety of equipment. Much of it very good values. Without these hands-on reviews I would be much less informed.
My pleasure!
It was great to see some things in PI that I've either never used or haven't used for a while (like Linear fit). Will put that in the memory bank for later :-)
Glad to be featuring some lesser known stuff! :D
Skywatcher has an alt-az aiming device that is a quarter of the price of the ADM mini device, although i had to order from the UK as its not sold in North America. Its also beefy, much larger than expected. Im using it for a dual 135mm setup and its overkill but i found using shims just wasnt practical and there was too much potential to accidentally drop my scopes in the middle of the night. I also found that for mosaics, the slight misalignment from the second scope can be enough to really force you to crop on both mosaic panels, resulting in quite a different outcome than anticipated. If youre not doing mosaics then shims are good enough to get the target relatively centred.
I got a beefier one from Aliexpress, same price as the Skywatcher device, and while it looks very robust and heavy and well built and works great on a refractor, the azimuth/x adjuster has enough backlash that it makes using a newt on top impossible, and causes wobbliness. So for now another solution is needed!
You have a lot of equipment, and more importantly time. Have you ever thought about doing something really worthwhile like science?
Where did you get the idea that I have a lot of time? :) I absolutely don't, with a busy full time job. I make the time but it comes at a cost
Take a round file and modify the rear most mounting screw hole on the bottom of the red rail that connects the two scopes. It will give you a nice pivot point.
Heck, you may just need to loosen them on both scopes, push them both in the direction they need to move then tighten. There may already be enough tolerance. You need almost nothing as far as movement. If it's the elevation axis then you can just get some shim stock from Amazon or wherever and shim between the previously mentioned red plate/rail and the adapter that connects the scope rail.
Another great idea! Some others have suggested feeler gauge leaves as shims, I'll have to try this!
Q: Can you see the same "city lights" on planets very far away, like James Webb's Telescope?
Just to be clear, the JWST hasn't detected city lights on planets far away, but there was discussion about its capability of maybe potentially being able to do so should there be such city lights. And my scope wouldn't be able to detect such lights!
Wow, amazing photo !
In processing the final steps, you removed some unwanted colors. Question; how close is the photo to the actual colors that we would see if it were possible to see from space?
It should actually be fairly close in this case, since we've done spectrophotometric color calibration!
Great! Very nice to have instructions how to do different actions in the PixInsight software!
Glad it was helpful!
excellent!
Thanks!
Ah the Frakenscope did good, well apart from the cable issue I guess nice image Cuiv & great video as always.
Clear skies (as you have guaranteed those heh heh)
Thanks so much mate! Really happy with the Frankenscope for now! And yes, clear skies guaranteed*
* you may have to get yourself above cloud cover first :p
Brillint!
Thanks!!!
Very interesting video as always.
That is a very nice image from light polluted skies. Great job!
Thank you very much!
Brilliant work there and well worth the final image 👌. Truly inspirational ☺️
Thanks so much!
Awesome rig! Just awesome! Thank you!
It's a lot of fun! Thanks for watching!
Great video Cuiv. I just hoped to see a similar processing with GraXpert and Adobe Photoshop... :-)
Thanks! There will be a processing video with GraXpert, Siril and Gimp! I've never used Photoshop so I'm definitely not the guy for that!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek , GIMP is fine too! If I manage how to use it properly, I can definitely get rid of Photoshop (and it's associated yearly cost) :-). I'll be waiting for that future video. Take care!
Was wondering how dithering would work with a twin setup
With the NINA plugin (I explain in more details in the previous video) it's absolutely painless!
Why didn’t you use the StellarMate Pro?
Because it doesn't support two scopes on the same mount with synchronized dithering, as far as I know!
They are too far apart to make it a binocular telescope, aren't they?
Not really, no - they're effectively perfectly parallel, so the distance doesn't really matter on a small scale
Great job✅
You should have used that ZWO EAF on CarbonStar scope to match the color 😂
Good point! But it was already on the quattro and... I was too lazy to switch :p
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Oh i forgot your nickname here, no worry then 😁
If i join your Patreon, i would be the first Bortle10...
Eeeek are you in the middle of Hong Kong or Singapore? Those places are brutal!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Haha, no I'm in the Netherlands, stuck between 4 of the 5 most light polluted cities in the Netherlands...
Nice vid Cuvier. I hope my first attempt at sync dither with dual scopes goes as smoothly 😅
Damn autocorrect Cuiv!
Fingers crossed it does! And don't worry about the autocorrect haha
Did you use two separate NINA taking images? If yes, how did you control mount and dithering? Could you put more details about these tricks?
Yes, he did. He talked about that in some depth in his previous video. That’s how he got the synchronized dithering, for example.
Yep, check the previous video, I go into all the details of the setup!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Ok. I missed it.
Yea baby. You are hooked. Why didn’t you stack the 5 images. Try siril you can stack them all at once. I’ve been using it because of the high volume with my twin setup. I like it because I can stay at low exposure times without worrying about it taking forever. Sirlic like a plug in.
I wanted different weights for each master! Easier to do that with Pixelmath:)
Oh and yes I could try Siril to stack all at once, but I then lose the subframe weighing? I don't recall of Siril has automated subframe evaluation and weighing, it's critical for me...
I would try it for the snr benny the beauty of it. It doesn’t take long. If you don’t like. Delete it. :). I can’t tell you how happy I am the you are using a twin set up It’s time for me to send you some coffee. I’m need to keep you motivated. Write and synchronize focus plug in. lol. Also the way Nina displays phd2. Why can it display the imaging tab of another instance even if it’s just view only. I’m asking for the world
Wow!
Would be interesting if you rotated one of the tubes by 45 degrees so that the diffraction from the spiders gets nullified.
Ah if I could stack all of the frames from both scopes at once with pixel rejection... it might work (or not)
@@CuivTheLazyGeek it would be e interesting if you could try it sometime. It looks like you have the ideal setup with the Frankenscope
Oh goody
Wow this came out great!
Thank you so much!!
Great video as always sir
Thanks, and thank you for your support!
Lovely image!
Thank you!
Fantastic work
Thank you!
Wooot
Woohoo!
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
FAB
Thank you!