great beginner video, but for torquing those collet nuts, use the other holder, vertical one, that way the fixture holds the tool, then hold the torque wrench with BOTH hands, this ensures an accurate reading, and that the force doesn't send the end flying as the head slips off, with nothing to catch it.
Good tutorial for beginners but with ER collets the flange that locks them in is eccentric so you should insert the collet into the holder at an angle where the flange is hooked under the groove and rotate it to align with the holder while pushing foreword, in sot sure how to do this just wiggle around while pushing but do this without a tool in it and until it snaps or locks into place. This is especially important on the larger er collets. When using a weldon type holder that requires a flat milled on an endmill be sure to tighten the set screw into the slot or flat then back it out just enough to slide up and down, if it does not hit both ends of the notch and is not captive you did not get it into the notch created by the flat and need to adjust it until you find it then tighten it tight. I think you may have gone overboard with the gloves used to hold an endmill or any tool, yes you need to be careful but if you are that sensitive then you should never touch a part because they often have sharp burrs and are covered in sharp chips that become splinters easily. In the real world you won't make it if you need a glove to handle a tool, I have had several cuts and numerous splinters over the last 30 plus years in machine shops, one of those times I was wearing thick leather gloves, I thought they would protect my hands but trying to pull stringy chips out of a conveyor proved them to be ineffective, better to rely on common sense. My advise is use common sense, learn from your mistakes and have a good pair of sharp tweezers and regular ones for the splinters sticking out of your skin. You don't have to be tough but it helps to not be a pussy either when working in a machine shop.
You said you set the torque wrench to 34 Lbft. Have you accounted for extra torque to be generated due to extended certerline while attaching the crowfoot to the torque wrench ? If not, then there would be variations in torque values that is transmitted into the collect nut and risk of damaging the thread or nut due to over torque.
I have a problem: when I'm milling the part one time I get one size, and when I get the toolholder from the spindle and get it back to the spindle and milling another part I get another size. It varies from 0.02 to the 0.05 mm. What can be the reason of this problem?
I think you need to have the crow foot at 90 degrees to the torque wrench body? Otherwise your wrench length isn't accurate and your torque value will be off?
This video may seem silly to some, but if you have never operated a CNC... It's super helpful
great beginner video, but for torquing those collet nuts, use the other holder, vertical one, that way the fixture holds the tool, then hold the torque wrench with BOTH hands, this ensures an accurate reading, and that the force doesn't send the end flying as the head slips off, with nothing to catch it.
This was very helpful John.
Thank you!
Good tutorial for beginners but with ER collets the flange that locks them in is eccentric so you should insert the collet into the holder at an angle where the flange is hooked under the groove and rotate it to align with the holder while pushing foreword, in sot sure how to do this just wiggle around while pushing but do this without a tool in it and until it snaps or locks into place. This is especially important on the larger er collets. When using a weldon type holder that requires a flat milled on an endmill be sure to tighten the set screw into the slot or flat then back it out just enough to slide up and down, if it does not hit both ends of the notch and is not captive you did not get it into the notch created by the flat and need to adjust it until you find it then tighten it tight. I think you may have gone overboard with the gloves used to hold an endmill or any tool, yes you need to be careful but if you are that sensitive then you should never touch a part because they often have sharp burrs and are covered in sharp chips that become splinters easily. In the real world you won't make it if you need a glove to handle a tool, I have had several cuts and numerous splinters over the last 30 plus years in machine shops, one of those times I was wearing thick leather gloves, I thought they would protect my hands but trying to pull stringy chips out of a conveyor proved them to be ineffective, better to rely on common sense. My advise is use common sense, learn from your mistakes and have a good pair of sharp tweezers and regular ones for the splinters sticking out of your skin. You don't have to be tough but it helps to not be a pussy either when working in a machine shop.
Thanks, This video is intended for high school students. I can't have students getting cut in my classroom hence the reason I advise they wear gloves.
Excellent!!
You said you set the torque wrench to 34 Lbft. Have you accounted for extra torque to be generated due to extended certerline while attaching the crowfoot to the torque wrench ?
If not, then there would be variations in torque values that is transmitted into the collect nut and risk of damaging the thread or nut due to over torque.
Great info ! What is the correct lbft?
I have a problem: when I'm milling the part one time I get one size, and when I get the toolholder from the spindle and get it back to the spindle
and milling another part I get another size. It varies from 0.02 to the 0.05 mm. What can be the reason of this problem?
Old machines tend to do this because of wear on the machine. Also this can be from the spindle warming up and cooling down
I think you need to have the crow foot at 90 degrees to the torque wrench body? Otherwise your wrench length isn't accurate and your torque value will be off?
I noticed the same thing. The applied torque will be greater than the indicated torque.
Correct. 90° it is 👍
What is the name of this part..where you clamp ur tool holder for change tool?
Tool holder fixture
Tool holder its also setup in tool room
Its BT40 Locking device
We have same in ready stock
What is the name of the tool holder jig you are showing?
I don't know where our school purchased them from
At 6 min, you didn’t lower the tool far enough to engage into the groove!
It's engaged, depth perception can be deceiving.
I think you are correct, he needs to double check it by loosening it slightly and moving it up and down, if it's not captive it's not in the notch.