I've been binge watching your videos. They're very good. I like the use of pen and paper, I can easily understand your calculations. Hope you eventually get sponsored and get a spot welder, or a newer soldering machine.
Definitely great educational content.... on that note, I have two questions: 1. Wonder why they named these popular lithium batteries 18650, it can't be its maximum amperage capacity (there are too many digits in the model number). 2. Anyone knows how to reliably measure current amperage of a battery cell (not the factory capacity but its capacity without a load in it)? Thanks.
@@BillAnt 1. Take out your ruler or vernier caliper, measure the battery and you will understand why it coded like that... AFAIK, Li-ion / Li-Po not only in 18650, but came in many size such as 14500 (AA battery size) up to 26500 (D type battery size) 2. Buy or build a decent constant current load battery tester
@@BillAnt 1. 18mm x 65mm 2. you can't measure capacity without putting a load on it. you measure a known load over time, and when the battery voltage drops below a desired minimum, that's your useful ah capacity.
@@sspence65 < Ahh 1. 18mm x 650mm now makes sense, nice riddle. :) Right, I figured that... but how does the battery manufacturer compute and labels the battery with say 3,000mah? What kind of load are they using? I can put a small load on and it would last for days, or a large one and it will run out in a few hours. So if I use a digital amp meter and simply touch the poles of the battery for a second, obviously the meter puts a load on the better internally. Is that a light or heavy load, and would the measurement be accurate as I described it? Sorry, just trying to learn.
@@BillAnt A typical 18650 battery is rated at 1C, so if it's nominally a 2500mah battery, put a 2.5 amp load on it, and see how long it lasts. It should last approximately 1h before the voltage drops below the minimum of 2.8v. With some testing, you can adjust the load current until you get 1h to 2.8v. Whatever that current is, that's your capacity. if it's 2a, then you have a 2000 mah battery. battery manufacturers don't have to guess, because they have a target mah they are designing for, so they just have to test each battery to make sure there is at least 2.8v left at the end of the hour.
I have 3 of those same power banks, and I agree with the other comments that you received two "backs" rather than a front and a back. That's why you had the odd bits of broken plastic in the grooves, those broke off from the original front cover. It was probably returned so they just stuck another "back" in the kit and sent it out again. I'd contact the seller you will be able to get a replacement kit.
Thanks for the very good video. I got correct Top & Bottom covers. Top cover has a pushbutton and a 4 Led window. I used 6 x NCR18650A taken from an old laptop Battery Pack. Was a very inexpensive and easy to buildup PowerBank kit. Seems to work ok.
You should revisit these - they now have 16x18650 versions, no soldering (all spring terminal), PD-compatible. They're really good power banks if you put in decent batteries.
Great idea for the flash-light charger, I bought a PowerBank from a local shop today with 1 x 18650 cell in it at 1800 mAh It cost me £4.00 UK (about 6 US dollars), which is a lot less than a non re-chargeable battery for my flashlight and the 18650 cell was not soldered in :-)
I bought a power bank that uses 18650's a while ago on Amazon, I have quite a few of those batteries so I'm trying to find uses from them. The bank was drawing current from the batteries even when off to the point of killing them. There actually was 0V on the batteries after just a few days of leaving the bank unused. I don't feel confident about trying another one of these...
Yes, it really looks like two covers for the same side. It also looks like if somebody already tried to assemble it and snapped the pieces of the black plastic which remained in the green part. The pieces don't come from my covers. But It's weird because I think that this cheap chinese rubbish is never returned to the sellers...
Excellent video. Just what I was after as I just bought this on ebay. Very clear even with your accent and english obviously not your mother tongue. Well done buddy. Subscribed! Look forward to more content. Greatings from Wales UK.
I got an 10x cell case and put in some 3200 mAh Panasonic cells. The thing kicks butt. Quick Charge too! Not super sure if readout is accurate. I'm ordering some testing gear to check that out. Will probably build another one and in case of temporary grid down or a power outage I'm going to be alright while the lights are off.
The issue with the volt/amp meter USB indicator is that it follows the standard 2.0 - hence only 0.5A w/o the data pins negotiation. Can it draw more than 0.5 with just resistors?
hi, thanks for such another great video. i have a question about at 19:56, is there any difference if you charge power bank with 5 v 2 A or 12 V 1 A how efficience change? for example i try this with my phone whenever I charge my Phone with 5 V 1.5A till %70 at night battery level down about %66, but whenever I charge with 9 V 1.8 A till %70 I saw %52 at morning.. is Fast charging really fill battery or just shows placebo effect us 🤔
Great instructions. I bought mine off of Ali Express thinking all I need is to purchase batteries, slap them in and it starts working. Um, yeah, they were laughing all the way to the Bank of China. I was slightly disappointed that no conductive metal went from the batteries to the unit and, while responsive, customer service was less than zero help. I was, however, deeply irritated with absolutely no instructions. I openly admit I am a novice but never shy away from a challange... well, unless it involves a parachute and a plane. Anyways, seems simple enough now but over my head before this video. I would have never thought about safety fuses. Brilliant idea. Not intending to knock the Chinese but safety seems to not be their top priority. I think my Ali Express buying days are done... both for safety reasons and other more personal reasons.
I like how you heat your shrink wrap. Nice technique. I have 11200mAh it charges in 3-3.5 hours, 20000mAh should take 6-7 hours and should be charged with 2.1- 2.4 amps. My battery pack will not charge with less than 2.1 amps.
This is where the clear heat shrink tubing I see in my assorted heat shrink sizes box would come in handy. It would allow you to see if the fuse is blown without having to get an ohm meter out to check it.
Dude, you had me cracking up, "it snaps together, it fits... well it kind of fits... maybe not." Awesome video though, really clear steps and why you're doing each. I appreciate it!
Stejnou DIY power banku jsem si cca před rokem koupil. Opravdu ti poslali 2 stejný kryty :D Nechápu jak se to mohlo stát. Co se týče obvodu, tak bych ho nehodnotil tak positivně jako ty. Nabíjení je strašně pomalé a při zátěži větší jak 5V 2750 mA se začne obvod strašně přehřívat
Yup, they sent you 2 bottom covers. The top one has the switch to activate the flashlight and battery status and a window to view the 4 blue status LEDs.
This dude straight up sounds like count dracula , all I keep thinking about for this entire video. And getting sent two bottom covers instead of the correct bottom and top is absolutely classic of any cheap eBay purchase of any junk Chinese made garbage from my experiences and those of people I know as well anyway. Man I really need to get me one of them little inline voltemeter gadgets that plug into any USB powered device then the USB cable hooks up into it as I'd absolutely love to know what the true charging rates are of my supposed "rapid charge" USB wall chargers as well as the true charging capacity , voltage and milliamps of my USB cables I'm using and I'd also love equally as much to find out what the true maximum capacity of my many (5) portable power bank cellphone chargers that I have especially because two of them I've opened up to find they were powered by standard flat top 18650's so I added 1-2 more 18650's of as close or identical capacity as I possibly could get ahold of for next to nothing (I harvested half of them from old lap top battery packs, lithium ion cordless tool battery packs where as the tool has long broke on me , as well as a few older smaller portable power pack chargers which I simply got for like $4 each so didn't mind harvesting their one or two internal 18650's to bring the supossed capacity of two of my power banks up to just over 8,000mah according to the specs printed on the batteries anyway but like I said id like to know the true capacity as well as true charging output of each of my 5 powerbanks. BTW just a bit of knowledge for anybody seeking to buy a decent quality and capacity portable cell phone charging powerbank that can still fit into your front pocket of your jeans with your cell phone as well and a short 6"-12" usb cable connecting the two I recently made an impulse buy like 4-5 months back looking for another portable powerbank charger that was pocket sized , had two outputs and a capacity of 6,000-15,000mah also another key feature that was a must for me was at least 2100mah charging rate out of all USB ports in the unit. So I found at Best buy after looking carefully at all their powerbanks I was attracted to this 8,000mah capacity model with dual 2400mah output USBs made by insignia which was still pocketable even with my cell phone in the same pocket and accepted an input charge rate of 2100 or 2400mah which was also a must. At $24.99 they beat the price of all other brands with the same matching statistics them I almost didn't notice but thankfully I did but they had an option for a two pack of the same exact powerbanks for only $34.99 so only $10 more for a second identical unit. So me and my sister split the cost of the two pack and each ended up with one. Out of the 5 powerbanks I own , two being high priced and supposedly high quality morphie powerjuice models I found that so far the performance of this much cheaper insignia (Best buy brand) charger surpasses the performance of all my other 4 chargers in every aspect including being the most compact and portable. I've made it my main go to charger in almost every situation now and bring it with me everywhere , I've prob recharged it over 50 times at this point as I tend to charge my phone and flashlights/worklights with portable powerbanks more often than I charge them with wall chargers due to the ability to be mobile while having the device on me as it's charging and useable still, as well as the fact that they generally charge all my gadgets considerably faster than all my wall chargers , even the ones rated at 2100mah charging output with braided extra thick usb cables. So yeah if your in the market for a medium capacity portable power bank that will charge most modern smart phones and apples about 3x from stone dead up to 100% and at a faster pace on average than any wall charger that ive come across so far than check out this the 8000mah insignia dual output portable charger two pack at Best buy, at $34.99 for two of them no other similar rated product comes close price wise. And also just word of caution I bought a morphie powerjuice 10,000mah slim line unit about 3-4 years back and it still to this day is regarded by their sales people as the most top of the line brand they sell besides maybe ankor. Regarding these types of chargers and it for me fell far short of my expectations, within 6 months it had lost significant capacity and would only charge my cell phone from about 15%power up to full maybe twice at most before being 100% drained and dead, despite having a 10,000mah rating and my cell phone battery only being 2800 or 2900mah, so you do the math, I've been quite let down by this product and brand name and mind you I also paid $40 or $45 for the damn thing 3-4 years ago. Ok rant over my bad.
At 20.37 you calculate the charge time but the charge mA are at 5V and the battery mAh are at 3.7V. If you convert it to Wh you get a charge of 2.5Wh and a battery capacity of 44.4Wh. Then you get 44.4 / 2.5 = 17.76 hours, which is also incorrect because there is some heat loss and the charge current will drop when the battery voltage rises. You can see the difference at 25.51, on the USB side you have 360mA and at the battery side 427mA. Non gold plated USB connectors can have a high contact resistance, combined with undersized cables they can be a pain in the a** when used as charge cable.
The advertised powerbank capacity is the capacity of the batteries. If you have a power bank with a 2200mAh cell, the power bank is called 2200 mAh. Powerbanks are marked this way because it gives higher numbers. The capacity at the USB side is lower of course. But yes, I probably calculated the charge time wrong, because this one has a switching (buck) charging regulator, so the battery charging current is higher than the USB current. I was probably thinking about a linear regulator, where the currents are equal :).
.........Normally...I don'y enjoy instructional / technical videos done by folks with accents....BUT you are different. I like the way you speak English...it's a bit like singing. The colorful notes are a good idea. Good camera work, nice cat. DIY battery kits involving soldering are best left to "technical types" of people...........try to get one with a battery carriage with springs and pos/neg indicators.
A question please. I long thought that my laptop battery is dead for good. After all, it has been there for 11 years and for the last 4 year it didn't show any signs of life, just dead weight. Even the indicator on the task bar would always show a red cross. Curious of replacing the Li-ion 18650 and reviving the laptop battery, I have opened it and removed all the batteries. BTW, the soldering was very hard and I kind of ruined the scheme... BUT! What I found really intrigued me. I have taken out all 6 batteries and tested them. All of them show solid 4.15V charge! Could you please kindly explain to me what is going on?!
Vazgen Ghazaryan it would seem the BMS (small circuit board connected to the cells) has taken a crap. BMS (battery management system) is what controls the charging and balancing of all the cells, they're also quite prone to failure.
I use those with solar panel on one side and LED array on other. they work good. I did not use fuses for batteries, so i will now use them, if you use them.
Is it a safe power Bank.. I have a plethora of good 16650 cells 2700 mah to repurpose. this could be a useful build. I will be making a couple large cap battery packs for my electric bicycle with the rest.
I have bad experience with these DIY powerbanks. I've bought one Single Cell and it gave me only 0.5 amps. I requested an new one but when I connected it quickly shorted on me. Same thing happened with the first one after some time.
i bought this, you have two back covers, the front has a button and led windows, also cool logo. i got a bag containing button and opaque LED diffusers. question; can i wire this to produce 12 volts? how? thanks
You can, but it would be incredibly reckless to do so -- since it could easily destroy things that you attach to it for a charge. Basically you are asking about the difference between connecting batteries in parallel vs. in series. With the cheaper types of these batteries, you really don't want to go above 3.7V. Only the high quality ones should be charged nearer to the 4.2 V. You'd basically need 3 batteries minimum. But you could do multiples of 3 to give more capacity -- by essentially mixing parallel and series connections. www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-bank-tutorial.html
Can i ask you something? I have a weller soldering gun original from USA. one 75 watts and one 100watts plus 150watts 2in1 I have a problem with the soldering tip The tip copper is not very hot, sometimes when the soldering tip is changed the heat is too strong. And then After a few days the copper is not hot enough. At the time I changed it just before it was very hot and good to use and perform. My question is what is the perfect gauge of the copper tip of the soldering gun?
If the tip randomly changes its temperature, it's probably a poor contact. It's about 0.4V at 200A, so even a small resistance between the soldering gun and the tip wire has a massive effect.
I'm waiting for the full d.i.y kit, no case or pcb :) That charge socket must be really crap, perhaps you can bend the contacts with a needle. I thought 500ma per usb socket too, good enough :-D
be careful not to charge faster than the cheap circuit can handle it can / will catch fire. many fast / quick chargers put out 2 amps and some of these are only rated a 0.5amp input. the board can catch fire
since i got one of these, i´m sure the seller give you 2 covers from the same way, and the cover where the leds and the switche are wasn´t given you in the kit.
Hello. I have a question. Is it ok, safe to build a power bank with 4x 18650 batteries with different mahs? Like can I use 2 of 18650 with 2200mah n another 2 with 2600mah?
Jak tě zarazilo to tlačítko u vývodu č.5, u té LED diody... Ten obvod IP5306 je zjevně nějaký hybridní IO, co má v sobě 1čipový mikropočítač, co ovládá logiku té powerbanky. Napovídá tomu i to zapojení indikačních LED diod (multiplexing/charlieplexing LED). Ten vývod č.5 se periodicky s rel. vysokou frekvencí přepíná jako vstup(sledování stavu tlačítka)/výstup(napájení LED). Díky tomu ti na to stačí jen jeden kontakt. Tyhlety techniky jsou obzvláště běžné/oblíbené u málovývodových jednočipáků.
I bought 100 each of typeA and micro USB plugs and I use twin 0.7mm mains cable to make my own vlow resistance charging cables. 0.35A charging current rises to 1.02A, even my "good" cables are blown away by a thick copper conductor. Digital data, I doubt there will be much if any advantage gained from forcing 4 big conductors onto a small plug. USB3 uses data as part of the charge process - so another obstacle probably not worth tackling. it might be worth thinking about wire gauges in general to see where the optimum lies. but certainly worth doing if you have a lot of chargeables
Really like your vid's! Please keep doing them. Noticed your bicycle at 7:57, I'd love it if you did a review of something electronic that goes on a bike. Thanks
This is probably the only bicycle accesory I have reviewed so far: ua-cam.com/video/9pM_nPSdvXA/v-deo.html but I may take a look at some more in the future ;)
la soldadura no debe soplarse para enfriar, se debe dejar enfriar sola si no solamente estas debilitando haciendo que sea más fácil quebrarse o despegarse... las cualidades no son las mismas. recuerda, no soplar, si dejar enfriar sola.
They sent you 2 butom covers because they broke the top one's. :) At least that's what I thought.
no because one is for the top and the other for the botyom
I have one of these, the top cover has the holes for the leds and a button for the torch, he has 2 bottom covers
True !
That would explain the plastic remains in the middle part
Nah someoane got 2 top covers with button holes and light guides 😂😂😂😂😂
I've been binge watching your videos. They're very good.
I like the use of pen and paper, I can easily understand your calculations.
Hope you eventually get sponsored and get a spot welder, or a newer soldering machine.
I subbed for 2 reasons:
1: YOUR CAT
2. Learning more electronics knowledge.
Definitely great educational content.... on that note, I have two questions:
1. Wonder why they named these popular lithium batteries 18650, it can't be its maximum amperage capacity (there are too many digits in the model number).
2. Anyone knows how to reliably measure current amperage of a battery cell (not the factory capacity but its capacity without a load in it)?
Thanks.
@@BillAnt 1. Take out your ruler or vernier caliper, measure the battery and you will understand why it coded like that...
AFAIK, Li-ion / Li-Po not only in 18650, but came in many size such as 14500 (AA battery size) up to 26500 (D type battery size)
2. Buy or build a decent constant current load battery tester
@@BillAnt 1. 18mm x 65mm
2. you can't measure capacity without putting a load on it. you measure a known load over time, and when the battery voltage drops below a desired minimum, that's your useful ah capacity.
@@sspence65 < Ahh 1. 18mm x 650mm now makes sense, nice riddle. :)
Right, I figured that... but how does the battery manufacturer compute and labels the battery with say 3,000mah? What kind of load are they using? I can put a small load on and it would last for days, or a large one and it will run out in a few hours. So if I use a digital amp meter and simply touch the poles of the battery for a second, obviously the meter puts a load on the better internally. Is that a light or heavy load, and would the measurement be accurate as I described it? Sorry, just trying to learn.
@@BillAnt A typical 18650 battery is rated at 1C, so if it's nominally a 2500mah battery, put a 2.5 amp load on it, and see how long it lasts. It should last approximately 1h before the voltage drops below the minimum of 2.8v. With some testing, you can adjust the load current until you get 1h to 2.8v. Whatever that current is, that's your capacity. if it's 2a, then you have a 2000 mah battery. battery manufacturers don't have to guess, because they have a target mah they are designing for, so they just have to test each battery to make sure there is at least 2.8v left at the end of the hour.
I have watched a few of these and this is by far the clearest. No pointless music either.
Not enough cats.
17:45 "Are you kidding me guys?!" I started laughing out loud. I feel his pain.
Great videos and your knowledge. Easy to understand english. Greetings from Poland. I'ts pleasure to watch.
😎Purchased two in January from eBay, should come from China March 1st.
The case you received has two rear portions. I have the same kit and it came with the front portion.
Must be some rocket scientist in the packaging/shipping department. xD
I have 3 of those same power banks, and I agree with the other comments that you received two "backs" rather than a front and a back.
That's why you had the odd bits of broken plastic in the grooves, those broke off from the original front cover. It was probably returned so they just stuck another "back" in the kit and sent it out again. I'd contact the seller you will be able to get a replacement kit.
Thanks for the very good video.
I got correct Top & Bottom covers.
Top cover has a pushbutton and a 4 Led window.
I used 6 x NCR18650A taken from an old laptop Battery Pack.
Was a very inexpensive and easy to buildup PowerBank kit.
Seems to work ok.
Your soldering iron is creepy 😂😂
and I subbed you today coz I get entertainment and electrical knowledge at the same time
You should revisit these - they now have 16x18650 versions, no soldering (all spring terminal), PD-compatible. They're really good power banks if you put in decent batteries.
Does the case still block the LEDs and the buttons?
What a great channel you have. I'm so glad I stumbled upon it.
Your cat always makes a appearance and it likes watching you at 7:54
You really deserve to be respected
Great idea for the flash-light charger, I bought a PowerBank from a local shop today with 1 x 18650 cell in it at 1800 mAh It cost me £4.00 UK (about 6 US dollars), which is a lot less than a non re-chargeable battery for my flashlight and the 18650 cell was not soldered in :-)
I bought a power bank that uses 18650's a while ago on Amazon, I have quite a few of those batteries so I'm trying to find uses from them. The bank was drawing current from the batteries even when off to the point of killing them. There actually was 0V on the batteries after just a few days of leaving the bank unused. I don't feel confident about trying another one of these...
Wow I like this early thing. I think they gave you a used kit that was returned and the gave you two covers for the same side. They ripped you off.
Mike oliver what before 23h wtf
Yes, it really looks like two covers for the same side. It also looks like if somebody already tried to assemble it and snapped the pieces of the black plastic which remained in the green part. The pieces don't come from my covers. But It's weird because I think that this cheap chinese rubbish is never returned to the sellers...
Daniel pirkl, getting the video early is a perk of being a patron, a lot of people do it.
zx8401ztv ok
For those wondering , it was 2,5A for the fuses at 4:40 and 4A fuses at 12:30.
Explainded in the comments by the uploader himself.
That soldering scared the heck out of me 😂
I'm glad to see I'm not the guy blowing on his solders to make it harden faster, people make fun of me at work when I do that 😂
Excellent video. Just what I was after as I just bought this on ebay. Very clear even with your accent and english obviously not your mother tongue. Well done buddy. Subscribed! Look forward to more content. Greatings from Wales UK.
I got an 10x cell case and put in some 3200 mAh Panasonic cells. The thing kicks butt. Quick Charge too! Not super sure if readout is accurate. I'm ordering some testing gear to check that out. Will probably build another one and in case of temporary grid down or a power outage I'm going to be alright while the lights are off.
looks like a wrong top cover. what a surprise. as always a TU .very enjoyable
Love this dudes personality lmao
0:00 "Li-ion batteries can catch fire or explod *at any time* " :D
Brilliant :D
It sounds funny, but this is exactly what Li-Ion or Li-Pol batteries are like :). It's unlikely, but you're never sure...
I think this applies much more to LiPo cells. I haven´t seen 18650s fail dramatically so far, even with pretty bad abuse.
exactly, and it is why I hate them :D
Next time use kapton tape on positive side so you will feel more on the safe side when soldering the wire bro!!
Very nice video thank you ... how many amps that battery fuse can handle?
The issue with the volt/amp meter USB indicator is that it follows the standard 2.0 - hence only 0.5A w/o the data pins negotiation. Can it draw more than 0.5 with just resistors?
I subbed cause your multy talents is genuine,and your informative things you did
Great job with all the best information and knowledge
hi, thanks for such another great video.
i have a question about at 19:56, is there any difference if you charge power bank with 5 v 2 A or 12 V 1 A how efficience change? for example i try this with my phone whenever I charge my Phone with 5 V 1.5A till %70 at night battery level down about %66, but whenever I charge with 9 V 1.8 A till %70 I saw %52 at morning.. is Fast charging really fill battery or just shows placebo effect us 🤔
Great instructions. I bought mine off of Ali Express thinking all I need is to purchase batteries, slap them in and it starts working. Um, yeah, they were laughing all the way to the Bank of China. I was slightly disappointed that no conductive metal went from the batteries to the unit and, while responsive, customer service was less than zero help. I was, however, deeply irritated with absolutely no instructions. I openly admit I am a novice but never shy away from a challange... well, unless it involves a parachute and a plane. Anyways, seems simple enough now but over my head before this video. I would have never thought about safety fuses. Brilliant idea. Not intending to knock the Chinese but safety seems to not be their top priority. I think my Ali Express buying days are done... both for safety reasons and other more personal reasons.
I have same volt current meter and the usb contacts are high resistance, certainly not gold plated. You can bend and spray them.
Awesome video, i guess the cat is watching for quality control of the product :))
I like how you heat your shrink wrap. Nice technique. I have 11200mAh it charges in 3-3.5 hours, 20000mAh should take 6-7 hours and should be charged with 2.1- 2.4 amps. My battery pack will not charge with less than 2.1 amps.
This is where the clear heat shrink tubing I see in my assorted heat shrink sizes box would come in handy. It would allow you to see if the fuse is blown without having to get an ohm meter out to check it.
Dude, you had me cracking up, "it snaps together, it fits... well it kind of fits... maybe not." Awesome video though, really clear steps and why you're doing each. I appreciate it!
At 6:18. "(With accent) I will assemble it with the help of my cat."
these powerbanks automatically increase the charge current with more cells?
thank you very mutch
Stejnou DIY power banku jsem si cca před rokem koupil. Opravdu ti poslali 2 stejný kryty :D Nechápu jak se to mohlo stát. Co se týče obvodu, tak bych ho nehodnotil tak positivně jako ty. Nabíjení je strašně pomalé a při zátěži větší jak 5V 2750 mA se začne obvod strašně přehřívat
Yup, they sent you 2 bottom covers. The top one has the switch to activate the flashlight and battery status and a window to view the 4 blue status LEDs.
You are so funny. Funny language +logic+ accent.
A very enjoyable 31.40 minutes on a Sunday afternoon! Thank you Diode! Awesome video as always!
Nice explanation about schematic diagram
I have a question, how are you supposed to see if the fuse is blown with the black tube over it?
😺great engineer!!...deserves bonus 🐟
Greetings from Poland
1 like for the Beautiful kitty.
Hey, watch it. That's my wife you're talking about...
I also like butt no link(kit) available
This dude straight up sounds like count dracula , all I keep thinking about for this entire video. And getting sent two bottom covers instead of the correct bottom and top is absolutely classic of any cheap eBay purchase of any junk Chinese made garbage from my experiences and those of people I know as well anyway. Man I really need to get me one of them little inline voltemeter gadgets that plug into any USB powered device then the USB cable hooks up into it as I'd absolutely love to know what the true charging rates are of my supposed "rapid charge" USB wall chargers as well as the true charging capacity , voltage and milliamps of my USB cables I'm using and I'd also love equally as much to find out what the true maximum capacity of my many (5) portable power bank cellphone chargers that I have especially because two of them I've opened up to find they were powered by standard flat top 18650's so I added 1-2 more 18650's of as close or identical capacity as I possibly could get ahold of for next to nothing (I harvested half of them from old lap top battery packs, lithium ion cordless tool battery packs where as the tool has long broke on me , as well as a few older smaller portable power pack chargers which I simply got for like $4 each so didn't mind harvesting their one or two internal 18650's to bring the supossed capacity of two of my power banks up to just over 8,000mah according to the specs printed on the batteries anyway but like I said id like to know the true capacity as well as true charging output of each of my 5 powerbanks. BTW just a bit of knowledge for anybody seeking to buy a decent quality and capacity portable cell phone charging powerbank that can still fit into your front pocket of your jeans with your cell phone as well and a short 6"-12" usb cable connecting the two I recently made an impulse buy like 4-5 months back looking for another portable powerbank charger that was pocket sized , had two outputs and a capacity of 6,000-15,000mah also another key feature that was a must for me was at least 2100mah charging rate out of all USB ports in the unit. So I found at Best buy after looking carefully at all their powerbanks I was attracted to this 8,000mah capacity model with dual 2400mah output USBs made by insignia which was still pocketable even with my cell phone in the same pocket and accepted an input charge rate of 2100 or 2400mah which was also a must. At $24.99 they beat the price of all other brands with the same matching statistics them I almost didn't notice but thankfully I did but they had an option for a two pack of the same exact powerbanks for only $34.99 so only $10 more for a second identical unit. So me and my sister split the cost of the two pack and each ended up with one. Out of the 5 powerbanks I own , two being high priced and supposedly high quality morphie powerjuice models I found that so far the performance of this much cheaper insignia (Best buy brand) charger surpasses the performance of all my other 4 chargers in every aspect including being the most compact and portable. I've made it my main go to charger in almost every situation now and bring it with me everywhere , I've prob recharged it over 50 times at this point as I tend to charge my phone and flashlights/worklights with portable powerbanks more often than I charge them with wall chargers due to the ability to be mobile while having the device on me as it's charging and useable still, as well as the fact that they generally charge all my gadgets considerably faster than all my wall chargers , even the ones rated at 2100mah charging output with braided extra thick usb cables. So yeah if your in the market for a medium capacity portable power bank that will charge most modern smart phones and apples about 3x from stone dead up to 100% and at a faster pace on average than any wall charger that ive come across so far than check out this the 8000mah insignia dual output portable charger two pack at Best buy, at $34.99 for two of them no other similar rated product comes close price wise. And also just word of caution I bought a morphie powerjuice 10,000mah slim line unit about 3-4 years back and it still to this day is regarded by their sales people as the most top of the line brand they sell besides maybe ankor. Regarding these types of chargers and it for me fell far short of my expectations, within 6 months it had lost significant capacity and would only charge my cell phone from about 15%power up to full maybe twice at most before being 100% drained and dead, despite having a 10,000mah rating and my cell phone battery only being 2800 or 2900mah, so you do the math, I've been quite let down by this product and brand name and mind you I also paid $40 or $45 for the damn thing 3-4 years ago. Ok rant over my bad.
Very nice. Have you found any with higher capacity output and/or faster input charging?
At 20.37 you calculate the charge time but the charge mA are at 5V and the battery mAh are at 3.7V.
If you convert it to Wh you get a charge of 2.5Wh and a battery capacity of 44.4Wh.
Then you get 44.4 / 2.5 = 17.76 hours, which is also incorrect because there is some heat loss and the charge current will drop when the battery voltage rises.
You can see the difference at 25.51, on the USB side you have 360mA and at the battery side 427mA.
Non gold plated USB connectors can have a high contact resistance, combined with undersized cables they can be a pain in the a** when used as charge cable.
The advertised powerbank capacity is the capacity of the batteries. If you have a power bank with a 2200mAh cell, the power bank is called 2200 mAh. Powerbanks are marked this way because it gives higher numbers. The capacity at the USB side is lower of course. But yes, I probably calculated the charge time wrong, because this one has a switching (buck) charging regulator, so the battery charging current is higher than the USB current. I was probably thinking about a linear regulator, where the currents are equal :).
Very nice video
.........Normally...I don'y enjoy instructional / technical videos done by folks with accents....BUT you are different. I like the way you speak English...it's a bit like singing. The colorful notes are a good idea. Good camera work, nice cat. DIY battery kits involving soldering are best left to "technical types" of people...........try to get one with a battery carriage with springs and pos/neg indicators.
Perhaps Joe's Garage has one.
Is the board specific to the amps? Or can i use a 2500mah board for this project?. Does amperage mater with the type of board?.
12.000mah are at 3.6V the charging 0.5A is at 5V you can't mix the two like you did in your "math".
Hi Diode, are these DIY powerbanks available with Quick Charge 3.0? If you find one could you please test it?
A question please. I long thought that my laptop battery is dead for good. After all, it has been there for 11 years and for the last 4 year it didn't show any signs of life, just dead weight. Even the indicator on the task bar would always show a red cross. Curious of replacing the Li-ion 18650 and reviving the laptop battery, I have opened it and removed all the batteries. BTW, the soldering was very hard and I kind of ruined the scheme... BUT! What I found really intrigued me. I have taken out all 6 batteries and tested them. All of them show solid 4.15V charge! Could you please kindly explain to me what is going on?!
Vazgen Ghazaryan it would seem the BMS (small circuit board connected to the cells) has taken a crap. BMS (battery management system) is what controls the charging and balancing of all the cells, they're also quite prone to failure.
So cute 👍🏻👍🏻 🇮🇳 || Kuki 14|01|2022
I use those with solar panel on one side and LED array on other. they work good. I did not use fuses for batteries, so i will now use them, if you use them.
Is it a safe power Bank..
I have a plethora of good 16650 cells 2700 mah to repurpose. this could be a useful build.
I will be making a couple large cap battery packs for my electric bicycle with the rest.
Ah yes the good ol' solder gun. Very good for soldering. Heats up and cools down quickly... Also, is the brown stuff flux?
I have bad experience with these DIY powerbanks. I've bought one Single Cell and it gave me only 0.5 amps. I requested an new one but when I connected it quickly shorted on me. Same thing happened with the first one after some time.
i bought this, you have two back covers, the front has a button and led windows, also cool logo. i got a bag containing button and opaque LED diffusers. question; can i wire this to produce 12 volts? how? thanks
You can, but it would be incredibly reckless to do so -- since it could easily destroy things that you attach to it for a charge. Basically you are asking about the difference between connecting batteries in parallel vs. in series. With the cheaper types of these batteries, you really don't want to go above 3.7V. Only the high quality ones should be charged nearer to the 4.2 V. You'd basically need 3 batteries minimum. But you could do multiples of 3 to give more capacity -- by essentially mixing parallel and series connections. www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-bank-tutorial.html
can you make one with an sq12 camera attached and show how long willxit last?
for the IP5306, wouldnt it be easier to show the datasheet?
Can i ask you something? I have a weller soldering gun original from USA. one 75 watts and one 100watts plus 150watts 2in1 I have a problem with the soldering tip The tip copper is not very hot, sometimes when the soldering tip is changed the heat is too strong. And then After a few days the copper is not hot enough. At the time I changed it just before it was very hot and good to use and perform. My question is what is the perfect gauge of the copper tip of the soldering gun?
If the tip randomly changes its temperature, it's probably a poor contact. It's about 0.4V at 200A, so even a small resistance between the soldering gun and the tip wire has a massive effect.
@@DiodeGoneWild thank you for comments 🤟
You and yor cat is the beat
At 2:00 there are unpopulated components U2, Q1, Q2, R1, R2. What would they have been for if fitted?
I have seen tighter usb a connectors for industrial use advertised somewheres, I can't remember where.
Can I ask why did you separated the lines of the 6 batteries into 2 with 3 battery each? Is it for a good charging process?
He did It I think for safety reasons
7:54 my cat is watching me
Your cat 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼❤️. Your knowledge 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼❤️
good day sir, is it okay if i used 1pc tp4056 for 2 or more 18650 battery for my diy power bank?
I'm waiting for the full d.i.y kit, no case or pcb :)
That charge socket must be really crap, perhaps you can bend the contacts with a needle.
I thought 500ma per usb socket too, good enough :-D
be careful not to charge faster than the cheap circuit can handle it can / will catch fire.
many fast / quick chargers put out 2 amps and some of these are only rated a 0.5amp input.
the board can catch fire
Am I the only one laughing when he uses the word flashlight? Sounds like he is saying fleshlight haha...
hi where would you recommend buying the li ion cells i have 6 milwaukee v28 batteries that need re cell thank you
i do have same opower bank and all 6batterys are 2200ma and its output same around 1.5a on all 4ports....
Good job continue
Thanks for this
If i wanted to, can I attach only ONE 18650 battery to this powerbank?
yes
since i got one of these, i´m sure the seller give you 2 covers from the same way, and the cover where the leds and the switche are wasn´t given you in the kit.
I keep hearing "charger for my fleshlight"
Lol just what I was going to say lmao😂😂😂
starting @15:53 I can hear you watch is tick-tock, "and probably" your doing it at midnight, thanks mate!
I have a question i have a powerbank 2100mah , and i have some others li-on batteries can i make 8400 mah with that board?
There is a high drain 3,600mah battery. Samsung 36G (INR18650-36G) 10amp discharge.
Nice job!
Those usb meters never have good contact, you always need to move them around until you see good current and then try not to breathe and move it again
Hello. I have a question. Is it ok, safe to build a power bank with 4x 18650 batteries with different mahs? Like can I use 2 of 18650 with 2200mah n another 2 with 2600mah?
It's a parallel connection, so the capacities can be different. No problem :).
Whats the rating on the fuse you used? How many amps?
I love your videos :)
Jak tě zarazilo to tlačítko u vývodu č.5, u té LED diody... Ten obvod IP5306 je zjevně nějaký hybridní IO, co má v sobě 1čipový mikropočítač, co ovládá logiku té powerbanky. Napovídá tomu i to zapojení indikačních LED diod (multiplexing/charlieplexing LED). Ten vývod č.5 se periodicky s rel. vysokou frekvencí přepíná jako vstup(sledování stavu tlačítka)/výstup(napájení LED). Díky tomu ti na to stačí jen jeden kontakt.
Tyhlety techniky jsou obzvláště běžné/oblíbené u málovývodových jednočipáků.
very nice vedio , nice idea thank you sir.
I bought 100 each of typeA and micro USB plugs and I use twin 0.7mm mains cable to make my own vlow resistance charging cables. 0.35A charging current rises to 1.02A, even my "good" cables are blown away by a thick copper conductor. Digital data, I doubt there will be much if any advantage gained from forcing 4 big conductors onto a small plug. USB3 uses data as part of the charge process - so another obstacle probably not worth tackling. it might be worth thinking about wire gauges in general to see where the optimum lies.
but certainly worth doing if you have a lot of chargeables
Good day boss..what is the value of the fuse u use... please...
Great information!
i just love your accent.
Really like your vid's! Please keep doing them. Noticed your bicycle at 7:57, I'd love it if you did a review of something electronic that goes on a bike. Thanks
This is probably the only bicycle accesory I have reviewed so far: ua-cam.com/video/9pM_nPSdvXA/v-deo.html but I may take a look at some more in the future ;)
la soldadura no debe soplarse para enfriar, se debe dejar enfriar sola si no solamente estas debilitando haciendo que sea más fácil quebrarse o despegarse... las cualidades no son las mismas.
recuerda, no soplar, si dejar enfriar sola.