Definitely great educational content.... on that note, I have two questions: 1. Wonder why they named these popular lithium batteries 18650, it can't be its maximum amperage capacity (there are too many digits in the model number). 2. Anyone knows how to reliably measure current amperage of a battery cell (not the factory capacity but its capacity without a load in it)? Thanks.
@@BillAnt 1. Take out your ruler or vernier caliper, measure the battery and you will understand why it coded like that... AFAIK, Li-ion / Li-Po not only in 18650, but came in many size such as 14500 (AA battery size) up to 26500 (D type battery size) 2. Buy or build a decent constant current load battery tester
@@BillAnt 1. 18mm x 65mm 2. you can't measure capacity without putting a load on it. you measure a known load over time, and when the battery voltage drops below a desired minimum, that's your useful ah capacity.
@@sspence65 < Ahh 1. 18mm x 650mm now makes sense, nice riddle. :) Right, I figured that... but how does the battery manufacturer compute and labels the battery with say 3,000mah? What kind of load are they using? I can put a small load on and it would last for days, or a large one and it will run out in a few hours. So if I use a digital amp meter and simply touch the poles of the battery for a second, obviously the meter puts a load on the better internally. Is that a light or heavy load, and would the measurement be accurate as I described it? Sorry, just trying to learn.
@@BillAnt A typical 18650 battery is rated at 1C, so if it's nominally a 2500mah battery, put a 2.5 amp load on it, and see how long it lasts. It should last approximately 1h before the voltage drops below the minimum of 2.8v. With some testing, you can adjust the load current until you get 1h to 2.8v. Whatever that current is, that's your capacity. if it's 2a, then you have a 2000 mah battery. battery manufacturers don't have to guess, because they have a target mah they are designing for, so they just have to test each battery to make sure there is at least 2.8v left at the end of the hour.
I've been binge watching your videos. They're very good. I like the use of pen and paper, I can easily understand your calculations. Hope you eventually get sponsored and get a spot welder, or a newer soldering machine.
You should revisit these - they now have 16x18650 versions, no soldering (all spring terminal), PD-compatible. They're really good power banks if you put in decent batteries.
I have 3 of those same power banks, and I agree with the other comments that you received two "backs" rather than a front and a back. That's why you had the odd bits of broken plastic in the grooves, those broke off from the original front cover. It was probably returned so they just stuck another "back" in the kit and sent it out again. I'd contact the seller you will be able to get a replacement kit.
Thanks for the very good video. I got correct Top & Bottom covers. Top cover has a pushbutton and a 4 Led window. I used 6 x NCR18650A taken from an old laptop Battery Pack. Was a very inexpensive and easy to buildup PowerBank kit. Seems to work ok.
Yes, it really looks like two covers for the same side. It also looks like if somebody already tried to assemble it and snapped the pieces of the black plastic which remained in the green part. The pieces don't come from my covers. But It's weird because I think that this cheap chinese rubbish is never returned to the sellers...
Great idea for the flash-light charger, I bought a PowerBank from a local shop today with 1 x 18650 cell in it at 1800 mAh It cost me £4.00 UK (about 6 US dollars), which is a lot less than a non re-chargeable battery for my flashlight and the 18650 cell was not soldered in :-)
Dude, you had me cracking up, "it snaps together, it fits... well it kind of fits... maybe not." Awesome video though, really clear steps and why you're doing each. I appreciate it!
Excellent video. Just what I was after as I just bought this on ebay. Very clear even with your accent and english obviously not your mother tongue. Well done buddy. Subscribed! Look forward to more content. Greatings from Wales UK.
I bought a power bank that uses 18650's a while ago on Amazon, I have quite a few of those batteries so I'm trying to find uses from them. The bank was drawing current from the batteries even when off to the point of killing them. There actually was 0V on the batteries after just a few days of leaving the bank unused. I don't feel confident about trying another one of these...
This is where the clear heat shrink tubing I see in my assorted heat shrink sizes box would come in handy. It would allow you to see if the fuse is blown without having to get an ohm meter out to check it.
hi, thanks for such another great video. i have a question about at 19:56, is there any difference if you charge power bank with 5 v 2 A or 12 V 1 A how efficience change? for example i try this with my phone whenever I charge my Phone with 5 V 1.5A till %70 at night battery level down about %66, but whenever I charge with 9 V 1.8 A till %70 I saw %52 at morning.. is Fast charging really fill battery or just shows placebo effect us 🤔
The issue with the volt/amp meter USB indicator is that it follows the standard 2.0 - hence only 0.5A w/o the data pins negotiation. Can it draw more than 0.5 with just resistors?
Can i ask you something? I have a weller soldering gun original from USA. one 75 watts and one 100watts plus 150watts 2in1 I have a problem with the soldering tip The tip copper is not very hot, sometimes when the soldering tip is changed the heat is too strong. And then After a few days the copper is not hot enough. At the time I changed it just before it was very hot and good to use and perform. My question is what is the perfect gauge of the copper tip of the soldering gun?
If the tip randomly changes its temperature, it's probably a poor contact. It's about 0.4V at 200A, so even a small resistance between the soldering gun and the tip wire has a massive effect.
I got an 10x cell case and put in some 3200 mAh Panasonic cells. The thing kicks butt. Quick Charge too! Not super sure if readout is accurate. I'm ordering some testing gear to check that out. Will probably build another one and in case of temporary grid down or a power outage I'm going to be alright while the lights are off.
Yup, they sent you 2 bottom covers. The top one has the switch to activate the flashlight and battery status and a window to view the 4 blue status LEDs.
i bought this, you have two back covers, the front has a button and led windows, also cool logo. i got a bag containing button and opaque LED diffusers. question; can i wire this to produce 12 volts? how? thanks
You can, but it would be incredibly reckless to do so -- since it could easily destroy things that you attach to it for a charge. Basically you are asking about the difference between connecting batteries in parallel vs. in series. With the cheaper types of these batteries, you really don't want to go above 3.7V. Only the high quality ones should be charged nearer to the 4.2 V. You'd basically need 3 batteries minimum. But you could do multiples of 3 to give more capacity -- by essentially mixing parallel and series connections. www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-bank-tutorial.html
A question please. I long thought that my laptop battery is dead for good. After all, it has been there for 11 years and for the last 4 year it didn't show any signs of life, just dead weight. Even the indicator on the task bar would always show a red cross. Curious of replacing the Li-ion 18650 and reviving the laptop battery, I have opened it and removed all the batteries. BTW, the soldering was very hard and I kind of ruined the scheme... BUT! What I found really intrigued me. I have taken out all 6 batteries and tested them. All of them show solid 4.15V charge! Could you please kindly explain to me what is going on?!
Vazgen Ghazaryan it would seem the BMS (small circuit board connected to the cells) has taken a crap. BMS (battery management system) is what controls the charging and balancing of all the cells, they're also quite prone to failure.
I like how you heat your shrink wrap. Nice technique. I have 11200mAh it charges in 3-3.5 hours, 20000mAh should take 6-7 hours and should be charged with 2.1- 2.4 amps. My battery pack will not charge with less than 2.1 amps.
These power bank modules suck. None of them have any sort of reverse polarity protection whatsoever, a single mistake and boom, magic smoke. Also suck at delivering the needed current. Mine drops to 4.8V at 1A load.
I bought one like that: two outputs, spring contacts inside, no protection at all. Those unused pads near negative battery terminal are for DW01P + mosfets protection and they bypassed it with a signle 0 Ohm resistor, just like in mine. Before I even put batteries in it, I ordered these parts and soldered them on. That way I protected all those cells when main control chip decided to break, what caused them to slowly discharge, and not want to charge again. Worst 2 bucks spent ever!
The amperage is there on the batteries, but they tend to use low quality power converter board, which top out at a much lower amperage than advertised. Typical cheap Chinese crap (the dreaded 3 "C"s), though there are some pricier higher quality boards out there.
I use those with solar panel on one side and LED array on other. they work good. I did not use fuses for batteries, so i will now use them, if you use them.
At 20.37 you calculate the charge time but the charge mA are at 5V and the battery mAh are at 3.7V. If you convert it to Wh you get a charge of 2.5Wh and a battery capacity of 44.4Wh. Then you get 44.4 / 2.5 = 17.76 hours, which is also incorrect because there is some heat loss and the charge current will drop when the battery voltage rises. You can see the difference at 25.51, on the USB side you have 360mA and at the battery side 427mA. Non gold plated USB connectors can have a high contact resistance, combined with undersized cables they can be a pain in the a** when used as charge cable.
The advertised powerbank capacity is the capacity of the batteries. If you have a power bank with a 2200mAh cell, the power bank is called 2200 mAh. Powerbanks are marked this way because it gives higher numbers. The capacity at the USB side is lower of course. But yes, I probably calculated the charge time wrong, because this one has a switching (buck) charging regulator, so the battery charging current is higher than the USB current. I was probably thinking about a linear regulator, where the currents are equal :).
20:27 The 2000 mAh are at a nominal voltage around 3.7V. But the USB charging voltage is close to 5V, so you can't calculate the charge time from that. First you have to convert the mAh to Wh, use the charging power instead of the charging current, and finally add some charging losses, maybe 20%.
Really like your vid's! Please keep doing them. Noticed your bicycle at 7:57, I'd love it if you did a review of something electronic that goes on a bike. Thanks
This is probably the only bicycle accesory I have reviewed so far: ua-cam.com/video/9pM_nPSdvXA/v-deo.html but I may take a look at some more in the future ;)
la soldadura no debe soplarse para enfriar, se debe dejar enfriar sola si no solamente estas debilitando haciendo que sea más fácil quebrarse o despegarse... las cualidades no son las mismas. recuerda, no soplar, si dejar enfriar sola.
Great instructions. I bought mine off of Ali Express thinking all I need is to purchase batteries, slap them in and it starts working. Um, yeah, they were laughing all the way to the Bank of China. I was slightly disappointed that no conductive metal went from the batteries to the unit and, while responsive, customer service was less than zero help. I was, however, deeply irritated with absolutely no instructions. I openly admit I am a novice but never shy away from a challange... well, unless it involves a parachute and a plane. Anyways, seems simple enough now but over my head before this video. I would have never thought about safety fuses. Brilliant idea. Not intending to knock the Chinese but safety seems to not be their top priority. I think my Ali Express buying days are done... both for safety reasons and other more personal reasons.
these cases are garbage... I got the light guides .... but no electronics... you got the electronics but no light guides.... needless to say I won't be buying another.
I'm waiting for the full d.i.y kit, no case or pcb :) That charge socket must be really crap, perhaps you can bend the contacts with a needle. I thought 500ma per usb socket too, good enough :-D
But what is the Ground pin for the chip? Plus the charger you are charging with shows Low voltage to begin with. Okay I looked up the datasheets and it probably has a pad underneath that is connected with the Ground.
I bought 100 each of typeA and micro USB plugs and I use twin 0.7mm mains cable to make my own vlow resistance charging cables. 0.35A charging current rises to 1.02A, even my "good" cables are blown away by a thick copper conductor. Digital data, I doubt there will be much if any advantage gained from forcing 4 big conductors onto a small plug. USB3 uses data as part of the charge process - so another obstacle probably not worth tackling. it might be worth thinking about wire gauges in general to see where the optimum lies. but certainly worth doing if you have a lot of chargeables
At 4.8V of course its not going to use a lot of current. Expensive powerbanks are doing that as well! In order to prevent heating up connectors etc. The control chip basically senses the input voltage, so the higher the voltage drop gets the lower the current will be regulated. But great video man :)
John Coops yes. But you didnt get my point. I was talking about the power consumption of usb powered devices in general while charging. Actually, since a lot of the times the input voltage as the usb meter says is already just at 4v6 its pretty normal that the powerbank doesnt even draw an amp! Because those devices do sense the input voltage to prevent high losses at connectors and such. So only at a proper input voltage of 5v or 4v9 maybe it is going to use the full charging current.
calk1calk... you have it kind of mixed up. If the device that's charging uses an Amp, then it uses an Amp. A powerbank doesn't reduce it's own current draw if there are less input volts. However, some Android phones use a check of input voltage to determine when they are pulling too many amps. This is a test of whether the charger is being overloaded or not... My Samsung will keep increasing it's current draw up to 2A providing that the voltage doesn't drop below 4.8V or so. Anyway, that's not what happens with powerbanks.
John Coops well actually that is a thing. Even tho you dont seem to believe it at this very moment but if you take a measurement of the buck regulators pulsewidth during charge you can clearly see how its getting lower again as you decrease the input voltage. My rather expensive gp powerbank does that and i have seen this effect on a variety of devices. Also i have seen molten in micro usb ports on devices that dont have anything like that. But really, input voltage sensing is absolutely nothing special and even the most simple tl494 buck regulator can do that.
LOL - okie dokie, then ROFL. Obviously you have no understanding whatsoever of the term "constant current", nor how that's used for charging lithium battery cells inside powerbanks are charged. You seem quite confused about how buck converters work, and cannot grasp that in order to provide the same output power they MUST increase (average) current when the input voltage is reduced. There's no "special" input voltage sensing required or used in a Buck Converter... they inherently adjust their operation frequency or PWM in response to changes in load and input voltages. This is very simple stuff. Your comment about melted Micro USB ports is absolutely ridiculous.
I have a 8x 18650 powerbank and it discharges fast. When I manually checked the percentage of each batteries, others are not drained. How do I fix this? Pls reply sir.
Diode gets the award for most obscure soldering method ever. There's not enough flux because you are using it wrong. The flux goes on the work, not onto the soldering iron. The way you do it, the flux is all wasted before it gets anywhere near to the surface to be soldered.
since i got one of these, i´m sure the seller give you 2 covers from the same way, and the cover where the leds and the switche are wasn´t given you in the kit.
Hi sir I had made the same power bank as u made in this video but problem is that it is charging but it is not showing the charging level after when I cut the Supply of charging .What is the problem?
Stejnou DIY power banku jsem si cca před rokem koupil. Opravdu ti poslali 2 stejný kryty :D Nechápu jak se to mohlo stát. Co se týče obvodu, tak bych ho nehodnotil tak positivně jako ty. Nabíjení je strašně pomalé a při zátěži větší jak 5V 2750 mA se začne obvod strašně přehřívat
I have bad experience with these DIY powerbanks. I've bought one Single Cell and it gave me only 0.5 amps. I requested an new one but when I connected it quickly shorted on me. Same thing happened with the first one after some time.
thanks for your vids and please make more I need your help please in building your battery analyzer can I replace IRLB8743 with irf 1404 and mc33171 with lm358 thanks again
LM358 would kind of work, but it doesn't have offset null, so the accuracy would be compromised. For this reason, mc33171 is better. Also TLC271 seems more suitable, althouhg I didn't test it. I think mc33171 is sold on Ebay. It is an old type, TLC271 may be a good replacement if you don't find any. IRF1404 MOSFET is not a LOGIC level mosfet, It may not turn ON well at 5V (minus the voltage drop of the OPAMP output). Better try to use some LOGIC level mosfet. Those are mostly rated 30V.
Your problem is that you are too lazy to source the components that are needed. Surely it's logical to not waste everyone's time and go find a circuit that suits whatever random components you've decided to purchase?
GarmnCX2 - I don't need to judge recklessly - so please cut the bullshit. Next you will tell us that you don't have internet in your country.
6 років тому
.........Normally...I don'y enjoy instructional / technical videos done by folks with accents....BUT you are different. I like the way you speak English...it's a bit like singing. The colorful notes are a good idea. Good camera work, nice cat. DIY battery kits involving soldering are best left to "technical types" of people...........try to get one with a battery carriage with springs and pos/neg indicators.
Hello. I have a question. Is it ok, safe to build a power bank with 4x 18650 batteries with different mahs? Like can I use 2 of 18650 with 2200mah n another 2 with 2600mah?
be careful not to charge faster than the cheap circuit can handle it can / will catch fire. many fast / quick chargers put out 2 amps and some of these are only rated a 0.5amp input. the board can catch fire
Is it a safe power Bank.. I have a plethora of good 16650 cells 2700 mah to repurpose. this could be a useful build. I will be making a couple large cap battery packs for my electric bicycle with the rest.
They sent you 2 butom covers because they broke the top one's. :) At least that's what I thought.
no because one is for the top and the other for the botyom
I have one of these, the top cover has the holes for the leds and a button for the torch, he has 2 bottom covers
True !
That would explain the plastic remains in the middle part
Nah someoane got 2 top covers with button holes and light guides 😂😂😂😂😂
I subbed for 2 reasons:
1: YOUR CAT
2. Learning more electronics knowledge.
Definitely great educational content.... on that note, I have two questions:
1. Wonder why they named these popular lithium batteries 18650, it can't be its maximum amperage capacity (there are too many digits in the model number).
2. Anyone knows how to reliably measure current amperage of a battery cell (not the factory capacity but its capacity without a load in it)?
Thanks.
@@BillAnt 1. Take out your ruler or vernier caliper, measure the battery and you will understand why it coded like that...
AFAIK, Li-ion / Li-Po not only in 18650, but came in many size such as 14500 (AA battery size) up to 26500 (D type battery size)
2. Buy or build a decent constant current load battery tester
@@BillAnt 1. 18mm x 65mm
2. you can't measure capacity without putting a load on it. you measure a known load over time, and when the battery voltage drops below a desired minimum, that's your useful ah capacity.
@@sspence65 < Ahh 1. 18mm x 650mm now makes sense, nice riddle. :)
Right, I figured that... but how does the battery manufacturer compute and labels the battery with say 3,000mah? What kind of load are they using? I can put a small load on and it would last for days, or a large one and it will run out in a few hours. So if I use a digital amp meter and simply touch the poles of the battery for a second, obviously the meter puts a load on the better internally. Is that a light or heavy load, and would the measurement be accurate as I described it? Sorry, just trying to learn.
@@BillAnt A typical 18650 battery is rated at 1C, so if it's nominally a 2500mah battery, put a 2.5 amp load on it, and see how long it lasts. It should last approximately 1h before the voltage drops below the minimum of 2.8v. With some testing, you can adjust the load current until you get 1h to 2.8v. Whatever that current is, that's your capacity. if it's 2a, then you have a 2000 mah battery. battery manufacturers don't have to guess, because they have a target mah they are designing for, so they just have to test each battery to make sure there is at least 2.8v left at the end of the hour.
I've been binge watching your videos. They're very good.
I like the use of pen and paper, I can easily understand your calculations.
Hope you eventually get sponsored and get a spot welder, or a newer soldering machine.
I have watched a few of these and this is by far the clearest. No pointless music either.
Not enough cats.
17:45 "Are you kidding me guys?!" I started laughing out loud. I feel his pain.
The case you received has two rear portions. I have the same kit and it came with the front portion.
Must be some rocket scientist in the packaging/shipping department. xD
You should revisit these - they now have 16x18650 versions, no soldering (all spring terminal), PD-compatible. They're really good power banks if you put in decent batteries.
Does the case still block the LEDs and the buttons?
I have 3 of those same power banks, and I agree with the other comments that you received two "backs" rather than a front and a back.
That's why you had the odd bits of broken plastic in the grooves, those broke off from the original front cover. It was probably returned so they just stuck another "back" in the kit and sent it out again. I'd contact the seller you will be able to get a replacement kit.
Thanks for the very good video.
I got correct Top & Bottom covers.
Top cover has a pushbutton and a 4 Led window.
I used 6 x NCR18650A taken from an old laptop Battery Pack.
Was a very inexpensive and easy to buildup PowerBank kit.
Seems to work ok.
Wow I like this early thing. I think they gave you a used kit that was returned and the gave you two covers for the same side. They ripped you off.
Mike oliver what before 23h wtf
Yes, it really looks like two covers for the same side. It also looks like if somebody already tried to assemble it and snapped the pieces of the black plastic which remained in the green part. The pieces don't come from my covers. But It's weird because I think that this cheap chinese rubbish is never returned to the sellers...
Daniel pirkl, getting the video early is a perk of being a patron, a lot of people do it.
zx8401ztv ok
Great videos and your knowledge. Easy to understand english. Greetings from Poland. I'ts pleasure to watch.
Your soldering iron is creepy 😂😂
and I subbed you today coz I get entertainment and electrical knowledge at the same time
😎Purchased two in January from eBay, should come from China March 1st.
Your cat always makes a appearance and it likes watching you at 7:54
0:00 "Li-ion batteries can catch fire or explod *at any time* " :D
Brilliant :D
It sounds funny, but this is exactly what Li-Ion or Li-Pol batteries are like :). It's unlikely, but you're never sure...
I think this applies much more to LiPo cells. I haven´t seen 18650s fail dramatically so far, even with pretty bad abuse.
exactly, and it is why I hate them :D
For those wondering , it was 2,5A for the fuses at 4:40 and 4A fuses at 12:30.
Explainded in the comments by the uploader himself.
Great idea for the flash-light charger, I bought a PowerBank from a local shop today with 1 x 18650 cell in it at 1800 mAh It cost me £4.00 UK (about 6 US dollars), which is a lot less than a non re-chargeable battery for my flashlight and the 18650 cell was not soldered in :-)
Dude, you had me cracking up, "it snaps together, it fits... well it kind of fits... maybe not." Awesome video though, really clear steps and why you're doing each. I appreciate it!
Thanks
Excellent video. Just what I was after as I just bought this on ebay. Very clear even with your accent and english obviously not your mother tongue. Well done buddy. Subscribed! Look forward to more content. Greatings from Wales UK.
Next time use kapton tape on positive side so you will feel more on the safe side when soldering the wire bro!!
A very enjoyable 31.40 minutes on a Sunday afternoon! Thank you Diode! Awesome video as always!
I bought a power bank that uses 18650's a while ago on Amazon, I have quite a few of those batteries so I'm trying to find uses from them. The bank was drawing current from the batteries even when off to the point of killing them. There actually was 0V on the batteries after just a few days of leaving the bank unused. I don't feel confident about trying another one of these...
This is where the clear heat shrink tubing I see in my assorted heat shrink sizes box would come in handy. It would allow you to see if the fuse is blown without having to get an ohm meter out to check it.
hi, thanks for such another great video.
i have a question about at 19:56, is there any difference if you charge power bank with 5 v 2 A or 12 V 1 A how efficience change? for example i try this with my phone whenever I charge my Phone with 5 V 1.5A till %70 at night battery level down about %66, but whenever I charge with 9 V 1.8 A till %70 I saw %52 at morning.. is Fast charging really fill battery or just shows placebo effect us 🤔
1 like for the Beautiful kitty.
Hey, watch it. That's my wife you're talking about...
I also like butt no link(kit) available
The issue with the volt/amp meter USB indicator is that it follows the standard 2.0 - hence only 0.5A w/o the data pins negotiation. Can it draw more than 0.5 with just resistors?
I have same volt current meter and the usb contacts are high resistance, certainly not gold plated. You can bend and spray them.
12.000mah are at 3.6V the charging 0.5A is at 5V you can't mix the two like you did in your "math".
Am I the only one laughing when he uses the word flashlight? Sounds like he is saying fleshlight haha...
I'm glad to see I'm not the guy blowing on his solders to make it harden faster, people make fun of me at work when I do that 😂
What a great channel you have. I'm so glad I stumbled upon it.
At 6:18. "(With accent) I will assemble it with the help of my cat."
That soldering scared the heck out of me 😂
I subbed cause your multy talents is genuine,and your informative things you did
I have a question, how are you supposed to see if the fuse is blown with the black tube over it?
Awesome video, i guess the cat is watching for quality control of the product :))
I keep hearing "charger for my fleshlight"
Lol just what I was going to say lmao😂😂😂
You really deserve to be respected
7:54 my cat is watching me
these powerbanks automatically increase the charge current with more cells?
Very nice video thank you ... how many amps that battery fuse can handle?
At 2:00 there are unpopulated components U2, Q1, Q2, R1, R2. What would they have been for if fitted?
If i wanted to, can I attach only ONE 18650 battery to this powerbank?
yes
Can i ask you something? I have a weller soldering gun original from USA. one 75 watts and one 100watts plus 150watts 2in1 I have a problem with the soldering tip The tip copper is not very hot, sometimes when the soldering tip is changed the heat is too strong. And then After a few days the copper is not hot enough. At the time I changed it just before it was very hot and good to use and perform. My question is what is the perfect gauge of the copper tip of the soldering gun?
If the tip randomly changes its temperature, it's probably a poor contact. It's about 0.4V at 200A, so even a small resistance between the soldering gun and the tip wire has a massive effect.
@@DiodeGoneWild thank you for comments 🤟
What is the value of the fuses?
Yes , explain the fuses at 4:40 please
Please upload purchase link in the description for usb voltage device
I got an 10x cell case and put in some 3200 mAh Panasonic cells. The thing kicks butt. Quick Charge too! Not super sure if readout is accurate. I'm ordering some testing gear to check that out. Will probably build another one and in case of temporary grid down or a power outage I'm going to be alright while the lights are off.
I have seen tighter usb a connectors for industrial use advertised somewheres, I can't remember where.
Yup, they sent you 2 bottom covers. The top one has the switch to activate the flashlight and battery status and a window to view the 4 blue status LEDs.
starting @15:53 I can hear you watch is tick-tock, "and probably" your doing it at midnight, thanks mate!
for the IP5306, wouldnt it be easier to show the datasheet?
im doing stuff like you, my mom says i need a girlfriend.
You can fit both into your life :).
Mom's are allways right.
You might need 2.
Yeah, Hangela and Palmgela...
I prefer spending on that kind of stuff than in a girlfriend.
i bought this, you have two back covers, the front has a button and led windows, also cool logo. i got a bag containing button and opaque LED diffusers. question; can i wire this to produce 12 volts? how? thanks
You can, but it would be incredibly reckless to do so -- since it could easily destroy things that you attach to it for a charge. Basically you are asking about the difference between connecting batteries in parallel vs. in series. With the cheaper types of these batteries, you really don't want to go above 3.7V. Only the high quality ones should be charged nearer to the 4.2 V. You'd basically need 3 batteries minimum. But you could do multiples of 3 to give more capacity -- by essentially mixing parallel and series connections. www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-bank-tutorial.html
A question please. I long thought that my laptop battery is dead for good. After all, it has been there for 11 years and for the last 4 year it didn't show any signs of life, just dead weight. Even the indicator on the task bar would always show a red cross. Curious of replacing the Li-ion 18650 and reviving the laptop battery, I have opened it and removed all the batteries. BTW, the soldering was very hard and I kind of ruined the scheme... BUT! What I found really intrigued me. I have taken out all 6 batteries and tested them. All of them show solid 4.15V charge! Could you please kindly explain to me what is going on?!
Vazgen Ghazaryan it would seem the BMS (small circuit board connected to the cells) has taken a crap. BMS (battery management system) is what controls the charging and balancing of all the cells, they're also quite prone to failure.
I like how you heat your shrink wrap. Nice technique. I have 11200mAh it charges in 3-3.5 hours, 20000mAh should take 6-7 hours and should be charged with 2.1- 2.4 amps. My battery pack will not charge with less than 2.1 amps.
Can I ask why did you separated the lines of the 6 batteries into 2 with 3 battery each? Is it for a good charging process?
He did It I think for safety reasons
These power bank modules suck. None of them have any sort of reverse polarity protection whatsoever, a single mistake and boom, magic smoke. Also suck at delivering the needed current. Mine drops to 4.8V at 1A load.
I bought one like that: two outputs, spring contacts inside, no protection at all. Those unused pads near negative battery terminal are for DW01P + mosfets protection and they bypassed it with a signle 0 Ohm resistor, just like in mine. Before I even put batteries in it, I ordered these parts and soldered them on. That way I protected all those cells when main control chip decided to break, what caused them to slowly discharge, and not want to charge again. Worst 2 bucks spent ever!
Are there better DIY power banks?
The amperage is there on the batteries, but they tend to use low quality power converter board, which top out at a much lower amperage than advertised. Typical cheap Chinese crap (the dreaded 3 "C"s), though there are some pricier higher quality boards out there.
I use those with solar panel on one side and LED array on other. they work good. I did not use fuses for batteries, so i will now use them, if you use them.
can you make one with an sq12 camera attached and show how long willxit last?
At 20.37 you calculate the charge time but the charge mA are at 5V and the battery mAh are at 3.7V.
If you convert it to Wh you get a charge of 2.5Wh and a battery capacity of 44.4Wh.
Then you get 44.4 / 2.5 = 17.76 hours, which is also incorrect because there is some heat loss and the charge current will drop when the battery voltage rises.
You can see the difference at 25.51, on the USB side you have 360mA and at the battery side 427mA.
Non gold plated USB connectors can have a high contact resistance, combined with undersized cables they can be a pain in the a** when used as charge cable.
The advertised powerbank capacity is the capacity of the batteries. If you have a power bank with a 2200mAh cell, the power bank is called 2200 mAh. Powerbanks are marked this way because it gives higher numbers. The capacity at the USB side is lower of course. But yes, I probably calculated the charge time wrong, because this one has a switching (buck) charging regulator, so the battery charging current is higher than the USB current. I was probably thinking about a linear regulator, where the currents are equal :).
20:27 The 2000 mAh are at a nominal voltage around 3.7V. But the USB charging voltage is close to 5V, so you can't calculate the charge time from that. First you have to convert the mAh to Wh, use the charging power instead of the charging current, and finally add some charging losses, maybe 20%.
i do have same opower bank and all 6batterys are 2200ma and its output same around 1.5a on all 4ports....
Really like your vid's! Please keep doing them. Noticed your bicycle at 7:57, I'd love it if you did a review of something electronic that goes on a bike. Thanks
This is probably the only bicycle accesory I have reviewed so far: ua-cam.com/video/9pM_nPSdvXA/v-deo.html but I may take a look at some more in the future ;)
la soldadura no debe soplarse para enfriar, se debe dejar enfriar sola si no solamente estas debilitando haciendo que sea más fácil quebrarse o despegarse... las cualidades no son las mismas.
recuerda, no soplar, si dejar enfriar sola.
Great instructions. I bought mine off of Ali Express thinking all I need is to purchase batteries, slap them in and it starts working. Um, yeah, they were laughing all the way to the Bank of China. I was slightly disappointed that no conductive metal went from the batteries to the unit and, while responsive, customer service was less than zero help. I was, however, deeply irritated with absolutely no instructions. I openly admit I am a novice but never shy away from a challange... well, unless it involves a parachute and a plane. Anyways, seems simple enough now but over my head before this video. I would have never thought about safety fuses. Brilliant idea. Not intending to knock the Chinese but safety seems to not be their top priority. I think my Ali Express buying days are done... both for safety reasons and other more personal reasons.
Those usb meters never have good contact, you always need to move them around until you see good current and then try not to breathe and move it again
What gauge number of copper you use in soldering Gun?
I use 1.5mm2 wire in my 75VA and 100VA ones. Converted to AWG it's somewhere between 15 and 16.
What value of fuse in it?
DiodeGoneWild?
these cases are garbage... I got the light guides .... but no electronics... you got the electronics but no light guides.... needless to say I won't be buying another.
Then you get the right electronics, right box, but no batteries. lol (i know, i know it's a kit, but still)
I'm waiting for the full d.i.y kit, no case or pcb :)
That charge socket must be really crap, perhaps you can bend the contacts with a needle.
I thought 500ma per usb socket too, good enough :-D
Good day boss..what is the value of the fuse u use... please...
But what is the Ground pin for the chip? Plus the charger you are charging with shows Low voltage to begin with.
Okay I looked up the datasheets and it probably has a pad underneath that is connected with the Ground.
I bought 100 each of typeA and micro USB plugs and I use twin 0.7mm mains cable to make my own vlow resistance charging cables. 0.35A charging current rises to 1.02A, even my "good" cables are blown away by a thick copper conductor. Digital data, I doubt there will be much if any advantage gained from forcing 4 big conductors onto a small plug. USB3 uses data as part of the charge process - so another obstacle probably not worth tackling. it might be worth thinking about wire gauges in general to see where the optimum lies.
but certainly worth doing if you have a lot of chargeables
At 4.8V of course its not going to use a lot of current. Expensive powerbanks are doing that as well! In order to prevent heating up connectors etc. The control chip basically senses the input voltage, so the higher the voltage drop gets the lower the current will be regulated. But great video man :)
That is not only illogical, but also it's wrong. Most decent power banks output a STABLE 5.1V to 5.2V irrespective of the load.
John Coops yes. But you didnt get my point. I was talking about the power consumption of usb powered devices in general while charging. Actually, since a lot of the times the input voltage as the usb meter says is already just at 4v6 its pretty normal that the powerbank doesnt even draw an amp! Because those devices do sense the input voltage to prevent high losses at connectors and such. So only at a proper input voltage of 5v or 4v9 maybe it is going to use the full charging current.
calk1calk... you have it kind of mixed up. If the device that's charging uses an Amp, then it uses an Amp. A powerbank doesn't reduce it's own current draw if there are less input volts. However, some Android phones use a check of input voltage to determine when they are pulling too many amps. This is a test of whether the charger is being overloaded or not... My Samsung will keep increasing it's current draw up to 2A providing that the voltage doesn't drop below 4.8V or so. Anyway, that's not what happens with powerbanks.
John Coops well actually that is a thing. Even tho you dont seem to believe it at this very moment but if you take a measurement of the buck regulators pulsewidth during charge you can clearly see how its getting lower again as you decrease the input voltage. My rather expensive gp powerbank does that and i have seen this effect on a variety of devices. Also i have seen molten in micro usb ports on devices that dont have anything like that. But really, input voltage sensing is absolutely nothing special and even the most simple tl494 buck regulator can do that.
LOL - okie dokie, then ROFL. Obviously you have no understanding whatsoever of the term "constant current", nor how that's used for charging lithium battery cells inside powerbanks are charged. You seem quite confused about how buck converters work, and cannot grasp that in order to provide the same output power they MUST increase (average) current when the input voltage is reduced. There's no "special" input voltage sensing required or used in a Buck Converter... they inherently adjust their operation frequency or PWM in response to changes in load and input voltages. This is very simple stuff. Your comment about melted Micro USB ports is absolutely ridiculous.
are not gel type batteries smaller and more practical?
looks like a wrong top cover. what a surprise. as always a TU .very enjoyable
If you put 6 3600 mAh cells inside of it there will be 21600 mAh capacity. If it charges at 500 mA it will take over 2 days to charge.
I have a 8x 18650 powerbank and it discharges fast. When I manually checked the percentage of each batteries, others are not drained. How do I fix this? Pls reply sir.
You check for missing continuity when the cells are not plugged in.
Ah yes the good ol' solder gun. Very good for soldering. Heats up and cools down quickly... Also, is the brown stuff flux?
Soldering is much easier with flux core solder
This solder wire does have a flux core in it, but for me it's never enough :).
Diode gets the award for most obscure soldering method ever. There's not enough flux because you are using it wrong. The flux goes on the work, not onto the soldering iron. The way you do it, the flux is all wasted before it gets anywhere near to the surface to be soldered.
Especially that old Soviet era soldering "gun", you can actually kill someone with it. tsk-tsk
since i got one of these, i´m sure the seller give you 2 covers from the same way, and the cover where the leds and the switche are wasn´t given you in the kit.
There is a high drain 3,600mah battery. Samsung 36G (INR18650-36G) 10amp discharge.
17:11 I hate when this happens...
Me too, glad USB type C became a thing.
Ahoj, prosím kolik Amper mají pojistky? Děkuji
Tady do tý jsem dal dvě 4A pojistky. Do tý druhý menší, kterou sem stavěl, sem dal dvě 2,5A.
Hi sir I had made the same power bank as u made in this video but problem is that it is charging but it is not showing the charging level after when I cut the Supply of charging .What is the problem?
The 2 cell diy pb is hard to open so I filed down the plastic clips and added a pull ring
Are those batteries are in parallel or series?
Parallel
@@casper2501 okay thanks!
@@choicardinio8014 No problem :)
Stejnou DIY power banku jsem si cca před rokem koupil. Opravdu ti poslali 2 stejný kryty :D Nechápu jak se to mohlo stát. Co se týče obvodu, tak bych ho nehodnotil tak positivně jako ty. Nabíjení je strašně pomalé a při zátěži větší jak 5V 2750 mA se začne obvod strašně přehřívat
I have bad experience with these DIY powerbanks. I've bought one Single Cell and it gave me only 0.5 amps. I requested an new one but when I connected it quickly shorted on me. Same thing happened with the first one after some time.
Is the board specific to the amps? Or can i use a 2500mah board for this project?. Does amperage mater with the type of board?.
Hi Diode, are these DIY powerbanks available with Quick Charge 3.0? If you find one could you please test it?
thanks for your vids and please make more
I need your help please in building your battery analyzer
can I replace IRLB8743 with irf 1404
and mc33171 with lm358
thanks again
LM358 would kind of work, but it doesn't have offset null, so the accuracy would be compromised. For this reason, mc33171 is better. Also TLC271 seems more suitable, althouhg I didn't test it. I think mc33171 is sold on Ebay. It is an old type, TLC271 may be a good replacement if you don't find any. IRF1404 MOSFET is not a LOGIC level mosfet, It may not turn ON well at 5V (minus the voltage drop of the OPAMP output). Better try to use some LOGIC level mosfet. Those are mostly rated 30V.
appreciated very much
my problem is I can only get what is on my local market but thanks anyway
Your problem is that you are too lazy to source the components that are needed. Surely it's logical to not waste everyone's time and go find a circuit that suits whatever random components you've decided to purchase?
really Im in a country where I cant order online we dont have a zip code and we cant make credit cards so dont judge recklessly
GarmnCX2 - I don't need to judge recklessly - so please cut the bullshit. Next you will tell us that you don't have internet in your country.
.........Normally...I don'y enjoy instructional / technical videos done by folks with accents....BUT you are different. I like the way you speak English...it's a bit like singing. The colorful notes are a good idea. Good camera work, nice cat. DIY battery kits involving soldering are best left to "technical types" of people...........try to get one with a battery carriage with springs and pos/neg indicators.
Perhaps Joe's Garage has one.
Love this dudes personality lmao
Very nice. Have you found any with higher capacity output and/or faster input charging?
Does it have a charge balancer ?
Hello. I have a question. Is it ok, safe to build a power bank with 4x 18650 batteries with different mahs? Like can I use 2 of 18650 with 2200mah n another 2 with 2600mah?
It's a parallel connection, so the capacities can be different. No problem :).
be careful not to charge faster than the cheap circuit can handle it can / will catch fire.
many fast / quick chargers put out 2 amps and some of these are only rated a 0.5amp input.
the board can catch fire
hi where would you recommend buying the li ion cells i have 6 milwaukee v28 batteries that need re cell thank you
Is it a safe power Bank..
I have a plethora of good 16650 cells 2700 mah to repurpose. this could be a useful build.
I will be making a couple large cap battery packs for my electric bicycle with the rest.