Nice video. May I suggest adding isolator rings on the positive side? Also, each parallel group should be isolated. The outer can is negative. With vibrations, the insulation may rub through, creating a short.
Maybe you could put links to the parts and tools you use so it makes even easier for beginners like me to follow your tutorial exactly and I know it will keep people coming back to learn from your tutorials 👍✌
That's the series connection between the two 6 sets of 6S batteries. It just connects the two blocks in series. As you can see, every series connection groups 8 cells or two sets of 4 cells in parallel.
I hear you, if you are building it for an electric skateboard, then my build is not safe at all, I suggest using cell holder to prevent the cells from rubbing, the vibration alone will damage the pack in no time. Definitely avoid fires.
@YvonSmart just for long range slow cruise to cover long distance long flight time. Yea can't punch out too much of battery can get hot. But my drone for the size isn't a high amp draw
Electric skateboards ride very rough. Further security messures need to be taken to ensure that the constent vibration and hitting the rocks and curves during rides do not crush the batteries. I suggest battery holders and a better divider that won't break overtime and lead to a short. I would also go for a much better bms
The pack can provide 180 Amps but that would be risky. On such build. I only set up my board to max at 60amps. Would recommend a better bms tho, the one I used on part 2 is only set up for charging
@@vincentpernicano3277 yeah definitely, like in my case, if you are not using cell holders, use a lot of kapton tape to prevent risks of the weld joints coming loose due to vibration during rides
@@vincentpernicano3277 copper would be necessary for going any higher than 60-80 amps. The Kweld is able to spot weld copper if a piece of nickel strip is put on top. This is one of the few uses for nickel plated steel, the higher resistance helps when trying to spot weld the copper. It’s called the copper nickel sandwich, posts can be found on Endless Sphere. 0.20mm nickel is only good for 10A per the ampacity charts but people have pushed much more, they just have to deal with the nickel heating up and higher resistance. Probably limits overall discharge potential compared to copper. This was a great tutorial though. Only thing I’d point out is when spot welding you only want to put a very light pressure on the electrodes
They are high capacity cells, but not protected internally as some other cells. Definitely take safety precautions. In this build I used a small charge only BMS that wouldn't recommend unless you are taking extra steps
Nice video. May I suggest adding isolator rings on the positive side? Also, each parallel group should be isolated. The outer can is negative. With vibrations, the insulation may rub through, creating a short.
Yea def good advice
Thanks for the great clear to follow tutorial keep up the great work brother many blessings to you and your family.
Maybe you could put links to the parts and tools you use so it makes even easier for beginners like me to follow your tutorial exactly and I know it will keep people coming back to learn from your tutorials 👍✌
I just updated the description
No Insulating the cells is a bad practice
Great tutorial, i need to make a 4 or 6s 2 pack for my long range plane. These cells would be great and give a long flight time in the air.
With this battery pack you have made, how many minutes do you drive with a normal ride?
sorry to be so stupid, but I dont understand, why all cells get welded together in the end with these cross blades?
That's the series connection between the two 6 sets of 6S batteries. It just connects the two blocks in series. As you can see, every series connection groups 8 cells or two sets of 4 cells in parallel.
@@YvonSmart ok, got it.
thank you for taking the time.
How long does it take to build from start to finish ?
A full day if you have time for it. But 2 days at most
I want to make 6S4P maybe 5P using P45B 21700 cells.
Just nervous making the pack. Don't want to f up
I hear you, if you are building it for an electric skateboard, then my build is not safe at all, I suggest using cell holder to prevent the cells from rubbing, the vibration alone will damage the pack in no time. Definitely avoid fires.
@@YvonSmart it's for a drone.
@@divingfalconfpv4602 Interesting choice of battery type. I think Lipo batteries are more suitable for drones energy density vs weight wise
@YvonSmart just for long range slow cruise to cover long distance long flight time. Yea can't punch out too much of battery can get hot. But my drone for the size isn't a high amp draw
@@divingfalconfpv4602 oh ok
why can it not be used for electric skateboards,
Electric skateboards ride very rough. Further security messures need to be taken to ensure that the constent vibration and hitting the rocks and curves during rides do not crush the batteries. I suggest battery holders and a better divider that won't break overtime and lead to a short. I would also go for a much better bms
How many amps are you planning on pulling with that pack?
The pack can provide 180 Amps but that would be risky. On such build. I only set up my board to max at 60amps. Would recommend a better bms tho, the one I used on part 2 is only set up for charging
@@YvonSmart ah okay that makes sense. I think some larger nickel strips would be in order as well?
@@vincentpernicano3277 yeah definitely, like in my case, if you are not using cell holders, use a lot of kapton tape to prevent risks of the weld joints coming loose due to vibration during rides
@@vincentpernicano3277 copper would be necessary for going any higher than 60-80 amps. The Kweld is able to spot weld copper if a piece of nickel strip is put on top. This is one of the few uses for nickel plated steel, the higher resistance helps when trying to spot weld the copper. It’s called the copper nickel sandwich, posts can be found on Endless Sphere. 0.20mm nickel is only good for 10A per the ampacity charts but people have pushed much more, they just have to deal with the nickel heating up and higher resistance. Probably limits overall discharge potential compared to copper.
This was a great tutorial though. Only thing I’d point out is when spot welding you only want to put a very light pressure on the electrodes
I just bought 150 of those cells both the mrs and i use ebikes , much cheaper than ping pang OE batteries and you know what you are getting
They are high capacity cells, but not protected internally as some other cells. Definitely take safety precautions. In this build I used a small charge only BMS that wouldn't recommend unless you are taking extra steps