I for one would love some videos going into the detail changes you made from the stock to your fast profiles. Knowing those steps is way more important for us who do not have the same printer and hence want to do similar changes for their own profiles or similar things in Prusa- or SuperSlicer.
@@FilamentFriday - This. Export the stock profile and the chep profile. Copy/paste them into Excel or use a diff tool to compare both profiles on a more granular level
I love that everyone is moving to the 0.6mm. I made the discovery last year when I tried to print wood PLA. 0.6mm works much better and makes the nozzle clog go away. Thank you CHEP for ALL that you give to this amazing community.
AWESOME!!!! My printer has been giving me lots of trouble and your videos have been a huge help. Thank you for making these profiles available. Making it so newbies like me have a lot more fun much faster. Thanks again.
In case no one has said it yet, we really do appreciate your work good sir. You doing the back breaking brain boggling work so that we wouldn't have to is really much appreciated. As a sign of appreciation i will thumbs up every video you upload (that i come across or see) from now on.
I've really been satisfied with making the switch to 0.6mm for most of my prints in the last few weeks, so to see this from you is very nice. In your last video about beating default 0.6mm Cure profile speeds with your ultra-fast 0.4 profile, I took that video as you sort of dismissing the use of 0.6mm for the sake of speed. I'm glad that this is not the case as I really have felt a lot of benefit from leaning on 0.6mm more heavily.
It really pisses me off that some a---hole would call you lazy of all people, a guy who does so much for our community, unbelievable. I'm getting ready to try out a .6 nozzle and sure enough, I knew you would come to the rescue :) I print almost only functional prints and the quality I get from my ender 3v2 and your FF profiles are incredible. Thanks Chuck U DA MAN!!!
Thank you for making this video and sharing the profile. I was having some issues with a profile I was running in general and it was taking 10.5 hours for a part I was making. After using this profile, it reduced it to under 4 hours and fixed whatever weird stringing issues I was having as a bonus.
Thanks for your efforts. I really love your extra fast profile with the 0.4 nozzle on my ender 2 pro. I am using it for nearly all of my prints in the Workshop.
Thanks a lot for the time and effort you are putting to produce those profiles Chuck! They are always great and allow us to progress in the understanding of how our 3D Printer works. I'm currently building an Ender 5 Plus and came back to your channel to retrieve your video on the Ender hotend fix I just did. This video convinced me to migrate one of my printers to a 0.6 nozzle (probably my E3v2 that needs a maintenance 😉). I will definitely try this profile.
Hi Chuck, We really appreciate all your efforts in creating new profiles. It's a shame that someone was rude enough to say you were lazy. I watched many of your videos before I bought my Ender 3 in 2019 and you have helped me a lot since then. Thanks very much.
Follow up: I used your 0.6 profile on my Ender 3 S1, adjusting the layer hight to 0.3 and retraction to 0.8 and temp to 215 [my filament likes it hotter]. I turned a 3 hour print into a 1 hour print..... Thank you for saving me even more time!
@@FilamentFriday I will try it. I am using a 0.4mm nozzle. So getting the results I do on setting for the 0.6mm nozzle is actually quite nice. Your video came at just the right time as I have reprint dozens of parts because my 1 supplier made their product 1mm larger than the previous batch. So now I have to readjust and reprint everything to fit this crucial part. And THAT IS WAY I don't injection mold my components. My supplier isn't consistant across batches.
Very much appreciate this update! After installing the profile for a project of mine it went from a 6+ hr print to 4 for each of the 13 prints. I'm using a wood tone PETG at 100% infill to make a custom flooring transition between two rooms through what used to be an exterior wall. Each piece is 3" wide to match the wood floor slats but 8.5" long.
Hi Chuck, I deeply appreciate what you have done! I've learnt alot from your tutorials and your clear explanations! Thank you for what you have done for this community! 👍👍
I aleady print with 0.6 nozzle using your extra fast 0.4 profile on cura 4.13.1 and it`s printing great.I only changed the 0.4 nozzle to 0.6 profile and retraction settings in cura. I`m using ender 3 with BTT SKR-MINI E3 and an afternurner direct drive (from voron). I also made a TPU profile using your extra fast ptofile with some changes to the retraction and speed (still very fast and prints flawless). thank you for making these videos
Hi. Nice video. Always see how much work you put into every episode. I now have 2 Ender 2 Pro's and because they don't travel, I found a way to reduce the footprint even more by taking a long step in history. I moved the filament spool holder to the top by removing the cary handel. Shrunk my profile by 200mm on the X-Axis. As I mass produce parts that fit inside the build volume of the Ender 2 Pro. This is an affordable addition to my print farm.
Thank you for all you do Chuck. Don't let the internet get you down, it's a wretched hive of scum and villainy. Most of us appreciate what you are doing for the community.
Thank you so much for this profile! It works great on my modified Anycubic Mega Zero. I have been messing with the settings for a couple weeks to optimize it for speed but haven’t been able to quite get there. Now I can get some more sleep!
frankly i would of provided a custom profile that had a few extra gcode lines & send it to the wonderful critics that called you lazy for demanding something for free when they themselves are by definition a lazy leech. thanks for the profile it’s exactly what i needed. finally got a phaetus rapido uhf & it came with a 0.6 nozzle. it would of taken ages & alot of plastic wasted to make a profile that just works. thanks chep ✌️ you the man.
Thank you so much. I can see why it took you so long to get it perfect. I tried to modify it to make it faster, and everything I tried broke it. My limiting factor is the standard Creality CR10s Pro V2's ability to melt filament fast enough. Even now, on long continuous lines I still get the occasional "clicking".
Is that what that clicking is? I figured it was because it was trying to push through on my ender 3 pro, but wasnt melted enough. Im very new to printing so thats what i assumed it was. I was originally printing at 205C with inland PLA, and i cranked it up to 215 and i almost never hear it now
Well I just had to post another "thank you", as this profile has been an absolute blessing for taking time off prints. Especially for big square pieces, like the external electronics box I'm currently printing for my Ender 3 V2. This profile, after some slight tweaking to compensate for my Micro Swiss direct drive / hot end, is making my E3v2 chug plastic faster than it ever has before. It's taking 12 hour prints down to 5 hours, with no visible loss in quality that I can see. In fact I even had to downgrade my filament roller, had to revert back to the stock Creality one, since my printed one was too slick with the roller bearings, and this profile would pull the filament so hard it caused the roll to spin WAY too much, and filament would pop off the roll. D'OH!! Bravo Chuck, many thanks for the hard work you put into these things!!
@@FruitNinja20 Not many. The only tweak I did to the profile was for the direct drive, I usually run 1mm retraction, so I set that to 1mm and set the retraction distance window to 1mm as well (I think that's what it's called).
Wel chep thanks again. I have 0.8. Nozzle and needed help . In a other video. You showed me how to use chat gpt. Today it was my big help . I ask it to make a profile for 0.8 nozzle. And my vase came out so nice. Whitnin 1.hour.7 minutes. On my ender3v3. Thanks to your video on chat gpt. Gpt made my day. Its 150 mm high. And thats so great. And fast
Thank you! This is ideal for printing functional RC truck parts like interior wheel arches! 2 hr 30 using Cura standard low quality 0.28mm layer 0.4mm nozzle according to Cura. Using your 0.6mm Extra Fast Profile (with a 0.6mm nozzle), 48 minutes!
I'm with Chuck on this.., Heat up the Nozzle and perform the change. I've changed the nozzle several times on my Ender-2 Pro without breaking it using the hand-socket-wrench-tool! I've since upgraded to a Slice Engineering Copperhead Hot Block and C-E Heat Break so my Capricorn PTFE Tube never gets hot on the end!
*QUICK QUESTION, does anyone know how to change the printing pattern (at least on the first layer) using CURA?* The first layer sometimes is important and the "CR-10S PRO V2" print all over the place with no continuity across compare to "Ender 5 PLUS" print evenly from side to side and I am trying that the CR-10S PRO V2 prints like ENDER 5 PLUS, is there any solution to this? Thanks.
INSANE...!!!! .4 nozzle w/.32 hyper fast file....!!!! I gave up on using .8mm nozzle...Detail and speed are awesome...!!!!! You are the man...!!!!! Thank you.....Note: have used this profile with PLA / PLA+ and PLA META from SUNLU....NO ISSUES....!!!! Excellent results....no need to change any temp settings...I just adjust the infill settings to my liking depending on the print....AWESOME...all the files...
Tried comparing the profile on my CR-6 Max with one I'm developing for .8mm nozzles. Compared to a 15 hr print on my .8 nozz, The .6 you made added 2 hours, but saved nearly 1/3rd of the plastic! Once I do a few more tests i'd like to see if I can get the .8 to run a lil faster and maybe save some plastic. Thanks for the Profile Chuck! Gonna be fun testing it out!!
Hi Chuck, Thanks so much for the hard work you do on these profiles! I tried the FFV5.1_EF06NOZ(0.44) file and sliced it as is and got close to your time 2hr6min, but then I made one change, I changed the infill pattern to Cubic Subdivision and was able to get a time of 1hr59min. And even if you turn on Infill Travel Optimization it will reduce to 1hr56min
Hey John did you get lots of oozing at the corners of the print? I did. I could be the outer wall flow rate being too high, could be my filament not handling the 210 deg. nozzle temp (I usually print at 205). Also my extruder would click (slip) every 30 seconds or so which tells me flow/temp ratio too high. Anyway let me know thanks.
When I have a design with corners (xy plane), I add little radius to keep a "constant" speed, even in the "corners". It is better too to improve the grip on the plate.
Great profile, everything in my opinion on point. I hope there are CHEP profiles that utilize Klippers benefits in the future. Unfortunately, I'm not good at tweaking settings that work for me :(
Amazing profile, this 0.6 profile is faster than the 0.8 one I was using before and looks a lot nicer. Can knock another 30 seconds off though if you reduce skirt down to 1 or turn it off all together. I do like having it but always go with 1 or 2 for sure not 3, every second counts :D
@@FilamentFriday Which part of the hot end is the limiting factor, the heater element, the heat break, the hot block, the nozzle or a combination of these? I'm asking because I'd like to go from the stock 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.6 mm one to print faster, and I simply don't know what I would need to upgrade for this. Ender v2 Neo with the soon to arrive bi-metal heat break, copper hot block and brass 0.6 mm nozzle. Thanks!
Thanx Chuck!. I'm definitely, going to try this profile, as my goto nozzle size has always been 0.6mm. I found that the 0.8mm prints fast, but swallows alot of filament.
Chuck your profile works amazingly well. I reduced my test print from 3hrs to 1hr with not much resolution loss. Its a practical cable coiler print, so resolution is not really required. Was printed on my Creality CR-10s Pro. Thanx again. 👏
On Pla+ in Ultimaker Cura and 0.6mm tip I am running on Neptune3 tip 220°C bed 70°C. Using High Quality 0.12 profile but altered layer height to 0.4mm and all wall widths to 0.6mm. Initial layer line width of 110%. I am still making tweaks to this but may reduce height a bit to maybe 0.38mm on next run. I will keep posting tweaks if I get a better result.
I love your cura profiles very much! I'm using them for my Elegoo Neptune 2S without any issue so far. It's just a bit annoying that I have to manually make all the settings since Cura doesn't allow to load a Ender Profile into the Naptune profiles. I could just be using the Ender settings but eh...
I got it on Amazon a while ago but it’s no longer available. I put a link to another one I use in the description and I’ll post it here. Nozzle Removal Tool: Palm Ratchet: amzn.to/3qPs3pB 1/4'' Socket: amzn.to/2OjdHdg
Just upgraded to a micro swiss and installed 0.6 nozzle and had amazing results on first print of a Milwaukee battery holder with your profile on my cr-6 se.
The profile is FANTASTIC! I have a bunch of little shelves to print and it's now taking about 1/4 of the time! Thank you so much! My only question is how can I change it so it's not printing in the corner of my bed? I'm using an Ender 3 and for the shelves I'm doing now, it's fine, but I really want to use this profile on larger prints! Thank you so much!!
For anyone having trouble loading the Profile with a different printer: 1. Open the .3mf file as a project 2. Settings -> Configure Setting Visabilty -> Profiles 3. Click on the Profile in italic (that is the currently used profile) 4. Click on the three line menu -> duplicate Now the profile should be saved in you profile folder and you can switch printer, and can still use this profile
Would something like a CHT nozzle further benefit the 0.6 over 0.4 as you'd get more heat power (Joules/second) for the same temperature? Would you say power or stability is the limiting factor? I.e. would something like an Ender 5 with CHT be able to go significantly faster. Should I just get an FL sun V400?
1st My hats off to you sir fine fine job. Now I'M mad as well you released this after releasing the .04 profile (also superb work) but on the plus side you have given me the ability to run my CR-10 superfast and shave a lot of time off of my print. Now for the question, Are there any plans to do a .08 or a 1.0 profile just so I don't have to get frustrated in a few months?
What great performance improvement on Cura. However, I'm still wondering, that the Simplify3D-slicer 4.1.2 is still producing more details and is still faster then the CURA-Slicer (I compared both with as much as possible equal values)....I did not measured the real print time - just the calculated times. Again ... thumbs up for that CURA-print time improvement
Great work Chuck! Don't sweat the naysayers. So appreciate the months of effort and flawless analysis and presentation. Noticed your profile used 80g vs 65g of filament.. hmmm. Could you maybe compare print quality via chep cube with other nozzles and profiles? Wondering how much sacrifice on detail level. Just so I can choose that perfect Chep profile for each print!
These super fast print files are only tested on static objects and meant for quick drafts and will need fitting or reprinting. These profiles are meant for personal designs mainly. Most people set print settings around prints, you could try uniform scaling by .2 intervals until moving parts lineup
I'm trying to get an 0.6 to speed up my process with ASA. I have achieved the strength and speed I'm looking for but there is one (4mm dia.) area that is is curved upwards at a mere 70 degrees and I get curling at the edge which leads to a clump of plastic along the edge but is fine elsewhere. I've tried many settings but what the 0.4 nozzle has no trouble with the 0.6 insists on curling in this area. Even at 0.15 Layer Height on the 0.6 nozzle I am getting curling. As I understand it the theory is that the ASA is shrinking and I've adjusted accordingly with all the popular settings. Preliminary results of my tests so far show I can take my 8 hour print down to 3, if only I can fix this problem. I've run the normal Gambit of Temperature, Speed, Layer Height ect. so I am wondering if wall overlap and skin penetration and whatever else anyone can think of that might help.
I'm using a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro and up to Cura 5.2.2 I could change the nozzle size from 0.1 up to 1.0mm. Not so in Cura 5.3.0 as it actually assigned a nozzle size of 0.4mm which I cannot seem to change. Maybe you know how 🤔
Chep I enabled spiralize countours to this profile for some small “cups” and it went from 1 hour to 15 minutes! Is there a way to temp stop updating ezabl bed level because prints are so fast that’s half the time
Hi Chep, Thanks for the well explained and useful yt videos.👌 Do you also have a extra fast Cura profile for a 0, 8 mm nozzle, that I can use on my Anycubic Kobra max? I really appreciate your extra fast 0,6 profile. Thanks in advance👍☺️
As always, great job! I was trying to play with the profile, but muy Cura AppImage won't open the 3mf file as a project. No matter the config in preferences where it says "Always ask" when opening project file. It just opens the model. But tried with other profiles like the tpu one, and it did open as project. I don't know if it something else wrong on my preferences.! Thank you for sharing all your experience!
i have a question regarding your old video about MAGIC NUMBERS well i am trying to beat printer limitations for very fine detailed flat panel model part , i need to make a flat panel with distinct uniform lines of around 0,22mm thickness so i made a triangle calculated magic number values for x and z to make uniform 0,2mm layers slanted a little bit, but i didn't get enough line separation and the part salmonskined like crazy so i started to undercut each line i ended up with layers of 2 and 3 steps on the z axis and you would think a printer would interpretate it to just stay at this level and just make paralell lines, some more sticking out some recesed, but instead i got some wierd repeating patterns they are very pretty but they don't look anything like a grill i wanted i somehow get a checkerboard pattern with 0,2x0,5mm fields crossed with salmon skin lines that either connect 2 odd layers together or show the pattern i wanted to print i could send you a photo but youtbe don't allow for posting links how can i get from clasic ender 3 consistent 0,2mm high shutters , i don't need much just a small panel to cut out my grill shape but i only get regular wierd patterns
This might be a good profile to test printing that gaming table kickstarter Uncle Jesse was making videos about. I think the whole table is a estimated couple hundred hours of print time.
@@FilamentFriday Except when I load the 3MF it only loads the model it never prompts even though I have it set to prompt. Select to load it as a project will not load the profiles... spent a half hour sussing it out. Tried unzipping I don't see the profiles in it.
@CHEP I tried creating a simple project 3MF on one computer then import the 3mf on my daily machine and it recognizes it and asks if I want to open as a project. Not sure why it isn't working on mine. I am on 5.1.0.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Who ever said you are lazy needs to have their heads examined - Please keep up the good work you are doing helping us
I for one would love some videos going into the detail changes you made from the stock to your fast profiles. Knowing those steps is way more important for us who do not have the same printer and hence want to do similar changes for their own profiles or similar things in Prusa- or SuperSlicer.
Too much to cover. You can do a compare if you want.
@@FilamentFriday - This. Export the stock profile and the chep profile. Copy/paste them into Excel or use a diff tool to compare both profiles on a more granular level
All the hard work done again. You are invaluable to the 3D printing community. Thanks!
I love that everyone is moving to the 0.6mm. I made the discovery last year when I tried to print wood PLA. 0.6mm works much better and makes the nozzle clog go away. Thank you CHEP for ALL that you give to this amazing community.
AWESOME!!!! My printer has been giving me lots of trouble and your videos have been a huge help. Thank you for making these profiles available. Making it so newbies like me have a lot more fun much faster. Thanks again.
Wow, all I can say is your tireless efforts have made a huge impact on the 3d printing hobby. Thanks Chuck! 💪
In case no one has said it yet, we really do appreciate your work good sir. You doing the back breaking brain boggling work so that we wouldn't have to is really much appreciated. As a sign of appreciation i will thumbs up every video you upload (that i come across or see) from now on.
Thank you.
@@FilamentFriday no sir. THANK YOU
I've really been satisfied with making the switch to 0.6mm for most of my prints in the last few weeks, so to see this from you is very nice. In your last video about beating default 0.6mm Cure profile speeds with your ultra-fast 0.4 profile, I took that video as you sort of dismissing the use of 0.6mm for the sake of speed. I'm glad that this is not the case as I really have felt a lot of benefit from leaning on 0.6mm more heavily.
It really pisses me off that some a---hole would call you lazy of all people, a guy who does so much for our community, unbelievable. I'm getting ready to try out a .6 nozzle and sure enough, I knew you would come to the rescue :) I print almost only functional prints and the quality I get from my ender 3v2 and your FF profiles are incredible. Thanks Chuck U DA MAN!!!
Thank you for making this video and sharing the profile. I was having some issues with a profile I was running in general and it was taking 10.5 hours for a part I was making. After using this profile, it reduced it to under 4 hours and fixed whatever weird stringing issues I was having as a bonus.
Thanks for your efforts. I really love your extra fast profile with the 0.4 nozzle on my ender 2 pro. I am using it for nearly all of my prints in the Workshop.
Thanks a lot for the time and effort you are putting to produce those profiles Chuck! They are always great and allow us to progress in the understanding of how our 3D Printer works. I'm currently building an Ender 5 Plus and came back to your channel to retrieve your video on the Ender hotend fix I just did. This video convinced me to migrate one of my printers to a 0.6 nozzle (probably my E3v2 that needs a maintenance 😉). I will definitely try this profile.
Hi Chuck, We really appreciate all your efforts in creating new profiles. It's a shame that someone was rude enough to say you were lazy. I watched many of your videos before I bought my Ender 3 in 2019 and you have helped me a lot since then. Thanks very much.
Follow up: I used your 0.6 profile on my Ender 3 S1, adjusting the layer hight to 0.3 and retraction to 0.8 and temp to 215 [my filament likes it hotter]. I turned a 3 hour print into a 1 hour print.....
Thank you for saving me even more time!
Excellent feedback. Try 0.32 instead of 0.3 and you might get slightly smoother results.
@@FilamentFriday I will try it. I am using a 0.4mm nozzle. So getting the results I do on setting for the 0.6mm nozzle is actually quite nice.
Your video came at just the right time as I have reprint dozens of parts because my 1 supplier made their product 1mm larger than the previous batch. So now I have to readjust and reprint everything to fit this crucial part. And THAT IS WAY I don't injection mold my components. My supplier isn't consistant across batches.
I haven't tried a .6, but the .8 changed my life
People are crazy. Your presence in the 3D printing community is priceless and we appreciate what you do!
Very much appreciate this update! After installing the profile for a project of mine it went from a 6+ hr print to 4 for each of the 13 prints. I'm using a wood tone PETG at 100% infill to make a custom flooring transition between two rooms through what used to be an exterior wall. Each piece is 3" wide to match the wood floor slats but 8.5" long.
Hi Chuck, I deeply appreciate what you have done! I've learnt alot from your tutorials and your clear explanations! Thank you for what you have done for this community! 👍👍
I aleady print with 0.6 nozzle using your extra fast 0.4 profile on cura 4.13.1 and it`s printing great.I only changed the 0.4 nozzle to 0.6 profile and retraction settings in cura. I`m using ender 3 with BTT SKR-MINI E3 and an afternurner direct drive (from voron). I also made a TPU profile using your extra fast ptofile with some changes to the retraction and speed (still very fast and prints flawless). thank you for making these videos
Hi. Nice video. Always see how much work you put into every episode.
I now have 2 Ender 2 Pro's and because they don't travel, I found a way to reduce the footprint even more by taking a long step in history. I moved the filament spool holder to the top by removing the cary handel. Shrunk my profile by 200mm on the X-Axis.
As I mass produce parts that fit inside the build volume of the Ender 2 Pro. This is an affordable addition to my print farm.
I'll be ordering some 0.6 nozzles now, thanks for all your work 👍🏻
Thank you for all you do Chuck. Don't let the internet get you down, it's a wretched hive of scum and villainy. Most of us appreciate what you are doing for the community.
Fantastic job, Chuck! 😃
Thanks a bunch for all the profiles!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Master of 3d printing and profiles, good work!
Your printing profiles have made me get back into printing, thank you.
Glad they helped.
Thank you so much for this profile! It works great on my modified Anycubic Mega Zero. I have been messing with the settings for a couple weeks to optimize it for speed but haven’t been able to quite get there. Now I can get some more sleep!
Your .4 profile worked great. So glad you have the .6 for us as well.
frankly i would of provided a custom profile that had a few extra gcode lines & send it to the wonderful critics that called you lazy for demanding something for free when they themselves are by definition a lazy leech. thanks for the profile it’s exactly what i needed. finally got a phaetus rapido uhf & it came with a 0.6 nozzle. it would of taken ages & alot of plastic wasted to make a profile that just works. thanks chep ✌️ you the man.
100%
Thank you so much.
I can see why it took you so long to get it perfect. I tried to modify it to make it faster, and everything I tried broke it. My limiting factor is the standard Creality CR10s Pro V2's ability to melt filament fast enough. Even now, on long continuous lines I still get the occasional "clicking".
Is that what that clicking is? I figured it was because it was trying to push through on my ender 3 pro, but wasnt melted enough. Im very new to printing so thats what i assumed it was. I was originally printing at 205C with inland PLA, and i cranked it up to 215 and i almost never hear it now
Well I just had to post another "thank you", as this profile has been an absolute blessing for taking time off prints. Especially for big square pieces, like the external electronics box I'm currently printing for my Ender 3 V2. This profile, after some slight tweaking to compensate for my Micro Swiss direct drive / hot end, is making my E3v2 chug plastic faster than it ever has before. It's taking 12 hour prints down to 5 hours, with no visible loss in quality that I can see. In fact I even had to downgrade my filament roller, had to revert back to the stock Creality one, since my printed one was too slick with the roller bearings, and this profile would pull the filament so hard it caused the roll to spin WAY too much, and filament would pop off the roll. D'OH!!
Bravo Chuck, many thanks for the hard work you put into these things!!
i have a direct drive as well what settings did you change ?
@@FruitNinja20 Not many. The only tweak I did to the profile was for the direct drive, I usually run 1mm retraction, so I set that to 1mm and set the retraction distance window to 1mm as well (I think that's what it's called).
Nice work - takes more work than people realise.
Thanks!
Well said!
Wel chep thanks again.
I have 0.8.
Nozzle and needed help .
In a other video.
You showed me how to use chat gpt.
Today it was my big help .
I ask it to make a profile for 0.8 nozzle.
And my vase came out so nice.
Whitnin 1.hour.7 minutes.
On my ender3v3.
Thanks to your video on chat gpt.
Gpt made my day.
Its 150 mm high.
And thats so great.
And fast
Did you tell it which specific slicer you wanted to use so it knew how to generate it?
I literally asked 2 days ago! What a great way to enter the .6 world!
I just tried your settings, holy moly it was perfect!!! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks
Thank you! This is ideal for printing functional RC truck parts like interior wheel arches! 2 hr 30 using Cura standard low quality 0.28mm layer 0.4mm nozzle according to Cura. Using your 0.6mm Extra Fast Profile (with a 0.6mm nozzle), 48 minutes!
That's a sweet looking prop.
I'm with Chuck on this.., Heat up the Nozzle and perform the change. I've changed the nozzle several times on my Ender-2 Pro without breaking it using the hand-socket-wrench-tool!
I've since upgraded to a Slice Engineering Copperhead Hot Block and C-E Heat Break so my Capricorn PTFE Tube never gets hot on the end!
*QUICK QUESTION, does anyone know how to change the printing pattern (at least on the first layer) using CURA?*
The first layer sometimes is important and the "CR-10S PRO V2" print all over the place with no continuity across compare to "Ender 5 PLUS" print evenly from side to side and I am trying that the CR-10S PRO V2 prints like ENDER 5 PLUS, is there any solution to this? Thanks.
Thanks Chuck!!!!! I use your .4 fast profile. Now, I can use your .6!!!!
This is just what I was looking for, thanks so much!
amazing research and knowledge, thank you for your amazing videos and profiles ,my best wishes for you in this holidays Sr.
Thank You
INSANE...!!!! .4 nozzle w/.32 hyper fast file....!!!! I gave up on using .8mm nozzle...Detail and speed are awesome...!!!!! You are the man...!!!!! Thank you.....Note: have used this profile with PLA / PLA+ and PLA META from SUNLU....NO ISSUES....!!!! Excellent results....no need to change any temp settings...I just adjust the infill settings to my liking depending on the print....AWESOME...all the files...
Tried comparing the profile on my CR-6 Max with one I'm developing for .8mm nozzles. Compared to a 15 hr print on my .8 nozz, The .6 you made added 2 hours, but saved nearly 1/3rd of the plastic!
Once I do a few more tests i'd like to see if I can get the .8 to run a lil faster and maybe save some plastic. Thanks for the Profile Chuck! Gonna be fun testing it out!!
I‘d love a video about your process how you optimise your profiles
Hi Chuck, Thanks so much for the hard work you do on these profiles! I tried the FFV5.1_EF06NOZ(0.44) file and sliced it as is and got close to your time 2hr6min, but then I made one change, I changed the infill pattern to Cubic Subdivision and was able to get a time of 1hr59min. And even if you turn on Infill Travel Optimization it will reduce to 1hr56min
Hey John did you get lots of oozing at the corners of the print? I did. I could be the outer wall flow rate being too high, could be my filament not handling the 210 deg. nozzle temp (I usually print at 205). Also my extruder would click (slip) every 30 seconds or so which tells me flow/temp ratio too high. Anyway let me know thanks.
@@Ringwraith19 I never printed the file. I just sliced it to check the time I would get.
Awesome, I was hoping you were still working on a .6mm nozel profile! I know what I'll be testing this weekend
Papa Kleb is back in action, love it!
When I have a design with corners (xy plane), I add little radius to keep a "constant" speed, even in the "corners". It is better too to improve the grip on the plate.
That is a good tip.
Great profile, everything in my opinion on point. I hope there are CHEP profiles that utilize Klippers benefits in the future. Unfortunately, I'm not good at tweaking settings that work for me :(
Amazing profile, this 0.6 profile is faster than the 0.8 one I was using before and looks a lot nicer. Can knock another 30 seconds off though if you reduce skirt down to 1 or turn it off all together. I do like having it but always go with 1 or 2 for sure not 3, every second counts :D
Would be intersting to see what you can do with the 0.8 though :D If you can get it looking nearly as good and any quicker I am all for it!
I’ve tried 0.8 but the stock Creality hotend can handle the volume of plastic quick enough.
@@FilamentFriday Which part of the hot end is the limiting factor, the heater element, the heat break, the hot block, the nozzle or a combination of these? I'm asking because I'd like to go from the stock 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.6 mm one to print faster, and I simply don't know what I would need to upgrade for this. Ender v2 Neo with the soon to arrive bi-metal heat break, copper hot block and brass 0.6 mm nozzle. Thanks!
Try this: ua-cam.com/video/dbJYQ4hYTMA/v-deo.html
Thanx Chuck!. I'm definitely, going to try this profile, as my goto nozzle size has always been 0.6mm. I found that the 0.8mm prints fast, but swallows alot of filament.
Chuck your profile works amazingly well. I reduced my test print from 3hrs to 1hr with not much resolution loss. Its a practical cable coiler print, so resolution is not really required. Was printed on my Creality CR-10s Pro. Thanx again. 👏
It would be amazing if you could also do a 0.8mm profile and a 1mm profile
I'm going to try this today on my anycubic vyper. I just got .6 nozzles can't wait to try this. Thanks!
On Pla+ in Ultimaker Cura and 0.6mm tip I am running on Neptune3 tip 220°C bed 70°C. Using High Quality 0.12 profile but altered layer height to 0.4mm and all wall widths to 0.6mm. Initial layer line width of 110%. I am still making tweaks to this but may reduce height a bit to maybe 0.38mm on next run. I will keep posting tweaks if I get a better result.
Thanks for the video, Chuck!
Thank you for All this work you have done
i appreciate it.
Greetings from germany
You’re welcome.
Thank you Chuck. You make great content.
Another good one thank you very much. BTW, "Cubic subdivision" infill pattern is even faster, just. 😉👍
Thanks Chuck, you are the best.
I love your cura profiles very much! I'm using them for my Elegoo Neptune 2S without any issue so far.
It's just a bit annoying that I have to manually make all the settings since Cura doesn't allow to load a Ender Profile into the Naptune profiles. I could just be using the Ender settings but eh...
Nice one, thank you. Any info for the tool you used to screw/unscrew the nozzle?
I got it on Amazon a while ago but it’s no longer available. I put a link to another one I use in the description and I’ll post it here.
Nozzle Removal Tool:
Palm Ratchet: amzn.to/3qPs3pB
1/4'' Socket: amzn.to/2OjdHdg
Love the block. Is there a link to download the file available?
Just upgraded to a micro swiss and installed 0.6 nozzle and had amazing results on first print of a Milwaukee battery holder with your profile on my cr-6 se.
The profile is FANTASTIC! I have a bunch of little shelves to print and it's now taking about 1/4 of the time! Thank you so much! My only question is how can I change it so it's not printing in the corner of my bed? I'm using an Ender 3 and for the shelves I'm doing now, it's fine, but I really want to use this profile on larger prints! Thank you so much!!
Change to an Ender 3 Pro profile in Cura and the Extra Fast profile should appear.
@@FilamentFriday Thank you so much! I’m good to go! This is seriously a life saver.
Hey! You can also use bigger line widths than your nozzle too, get even more time savings.
Congrats on your work!
For anyone having trouble loading the Profile with a different printer:
1. Open the .3mf file as a project
2. Settings -> Configure Setting Visabilty -> Profiles
3. Click on the Profile in italic (that is the currently used profile)
4. Click on the three line menu -> duplicate
Now the profile should be saved in you profile folder and you can switch printer, and can still use this profile
will this work for ender 5 plus?
@@ZARSHIT14 It should work. But i don't have an Ender 5, so i can't test ist.
I dont have cura. Will it work in Orca
YES! THANK YOU
Would something like a CHT nozzle further benefit the 0.6 over 0.4 as you'd get more heat power (Joules/second) for the same temperature?
Would you say power or stability is the limiting factor?
I.e. would something like an Ender 5 with CHT be able to go significantly faster.
Should I just get an FL sun V400?
It should .
1st My hats off to you sir fine fine job.
Now I'M mad as well you released this after releasing the .04 profile (also superb work)
but on the plus side you have given me the ability to run my CR-10 superfast and shave a lot of time off of my print.
Now for the question,
Are there any plans to do a .08 or a 1.0 profile just so I don't have to get frustrated in a few months?
Working on a 0.8. Doubt I’ll do a 1mm.
What great performance improvement on Cura. However, I'm still wondering, that the Simplify3D-slicer 4.1.2 is still producing more details and is still faster then the CURA-Slicer (I compared both with as much as possible equal values)....I did not measured the real print time - just the calculated times. Again ... thumbs up for that CURA-print time improvement
1:33 that was some smooth rhyming.
Well done. Thank you for your efforts
Great work Chuck! Don't sweat the naysayers. So appreciate the months of effort and flawless analysis and presentation. Noticed your profile used 80g vs 65g of filament.. hmmm.
Could you maybe compare print quality via chep cube with other nozzles and profiles? Wondering how much sacrifice on detail level. Just so I can choose that perfect Chep profile for each print!
Profiles are no longer there
do you have plans to do a 0.8 profile?
During a couple years I'm using your 0.4 profile adapting to a 0.8mm nozzle. I think I've a 0.6 in home, let's try...
5.1 settings from your video all parts shrink so movable parts no longer fit how do I fix this
These super fast print files are only tested on static objects and meant for quick drafts and will need fitting or reprinting. These profiles are meant for personal designs mainly. Most people set print settings around prints, you could try uniform scaling by .2 intervals until moving parts lineup
I'm trying to get an 0.6 to speed up my process with ASA. I have achieved the strength and speed I'm looking for but there is one (4mm dia.) area that is is curved upwards at a mere 70 degrees and I get curling at the edge which leads to a clump of plastic along the edge but is fine elsewhere. I've tried many settings but what the 0.4 nozzle has no trouble with the 0.6 insists on curling in this area. Even at 0.15 Layer Height on the 0.6 nozzle I am getting curling. As I understand it the theory is that the ASA is shrinking and I've adjusted accordingly with all the popular settings. Preliminary results of my tests so far show I can take my 8 hour print down to 3, if only I can fix this problem. I've run the normal Gambit of Temperature, Speed, Layer Height ect. so I am wondering if wall overlap and skin penetration and whatever else anyone can think of that might help.
Super cool, hugs from colombia
I'm using a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro and up to Cura 5.2.2 I could change the nozzle size from 0.1 up to 1.0mm. Not so in Cura 5.3.0 as it actually assigned a nozzle size of 0.4mm which I cannot seem to change. Maybe you know how 🤔
Chep I enabled spiralize countours to this profile for some small “cups” and it went from 1 hour to 15 minutes! Is there a way to temp stop updating ezabl bed level because prints are so fast that’s half the time
I’ve been wanting to try some .6 nozzles.
Hi Chep, Thanks for the well explained and useful yt videos.👌
Do you also have a extra fast Cura profile for a 0, 8 mm nozzle, that I can use on my Anycubic Kobra max?
I really appreciate your extra fast 0,6 profile.
Thanks in advance👍☺️
Thanks for finally proving that you're not being lazy... 😄
As always, great job! I was trying to play with the profile, but muy Cura AppImage won't open the 3mf file as a project. No matter the config in preferences where it says "Always ask" when opening project file. It just opens the model. But tried with other profiles like the tpu one, and it did open as project. I don't know if it something else wrong on my preferences.!
Thank you for sharing all your experience!
will your good and best 5.0 profiles still work with 5.1?
Yes
@@FilamentFriday Great, thanks! I was waiting to update Cura until I knew for sure.
CHep, do you have any suggestions for a profile, for printing 1/100 scale tanks? I am having a hell of a time removing supports. Thanks in advance.
I don’t have a good miniatures profile.
@@FilamentFriday Im using your .12 profile right now after i commented. Seems to work pretty good!
A few others have told me that. Thanks for the feedback.
Increase the support roof gap and they should remove easier.
@@FilamentFriday is that a hidden setting? Cant seem to find it anywhere.
Can't wait for lighting fast 1.75mm profile ))
i have a question regarding your old video about MAGIC NUMBERS
well i am trying to beat printer limitations for very fine detailed flat panel model part , i need to make a flat panel with distinct uniform lines of around 0,22mm thickness
so i made a triangle calculated magic number values for x and z to make uniform 0,2mm layers slanted a little bit, but i didn't get enough line separation and the part salmonskined like crazy so i started to undercut each line
i ended up with layers of 2 and 3 steps on the z axis and you would think a printer would interpretate it to just stay at this level and just make paralell lines, some more sticking out some recesed, but instead i got some wierd repeating patterns
they are very pretty but they don't look anything like a grill i wanted
i somehow get a checkerboard pattern with 0,2x0,5mm fields crossed with salmon skin lines that either connect 2 odd layers together or show the pattern i wanted to print i could send you a photo but youtbe don't allow for posting links
how can i get from clasic ender 3 consistent 0,2mm high shutters , i don't need much just a small panel to cut out my grill shape but i only get regular wierd patterns
This might be a good profile to test printing that gaming table kickstarter Uncle Jesse was making videos about. I think the whole table is a estimated couple hundred hours of print time.
When you set your base line you said you were using Low Quality. At 1:57 when you slice the screen shows the Standard Quality profile?
consider.
using the topological optimization plugin with freecad
IDK how you put up with the constant issues with PTFE going to the nozzle.
I put a slice engineering heat break in place. ua-cam.com/video/tYbL-O3FecY/v-deo.html
I was just curious of what kind of boat your son owns?Are you all avid skiers,fishermen or pleasure boaters?Thank you for all your help!
Alongside 3mf you should provide standard format cure profile as well
Too many issues when I did that. So I’ll stick with this.
If you rename the .3mf to .zip (or just manually open in your favorite zip software), you'll find the Cura profile files inside it.
Or just load the .3MF.
@@FilamentFriday Except when I load the 3MF it only loads the model it never prompts even though I have it set to prompt. Select to load it as a project will not load the profiles... spent a half hour sussing it out. Tried unzipping I don't see the profiles in it.
@CHEP I tried creating a simple project 3MF on one computer then import the 3mf on my daily machine and it recognizes it and asks if I want to open as a project. Not sure why it isn't working on mine. I am on 5.1.0.
Very interesting, So maybe I don't understand but can I use the 0.4 profile with a Ulitmaker?