Thanks for showing a job I would probably pass on. When it comes to tearing down large scale trim etc I simply won't do for add a key situations. After having a guy call me back for three weeks complaining about a rattle he never heard before and Me PAYING HIM to make his problem go away...I'm done with those jobs. Lifes too short.
We only do lost keys. We pay for codes as much as possible. If we can't get a lock out easy it doesn't get done. We also don't Lishi. We run 80-150 automotive locksmith calls per week. I turn a lot of stuff down and just do the gravy jobs which most are. Some of the cars are ridiculous all the crap you have to do to make keys for them. If it's someone we know like a tow yard that gives us a lot of work we will make exceptions and yank half the car apart for a MB or something but most we turn down. Euro's are the main ones we turn down. Some late model GM trucks you can't program without special equipment now and not even sure that really works. Some Toyota's if you don't belong to NASTF you aren't going to be able to do. We are members so not a big deal but the car provides an output code and you pay them for the input code. I don't complain about the extra charges because they don't cost me anything. I pass all these extra charges on to the customer. We are on the more expensive end but usually cheaper than the dealer and we come out to them. If they complain about price I tell them to call someone else and move on to our next calls. Many call me back and apologize when they realize nobody else can do it and the dealer charges more. We also use mainly OEM fobs to avoid comebacks and give a warranty. That's why I'm expensive but we do it right. Unfortunately dealing with the public has soured me. Many are cheap and or poor and are always the ones that do stupid things. I have zero empathy for them at this point. They will also complain about things that have nothing to do with us. I start out nice and friendly to everyone but when they start their nonsense that's it. I always say cheap and or poor people are bad for business. I am also in a busy affluent area of So. Florida. If I was rural with my attitude I would be in trouble. lol
@@bargainhunter6177 I have no website and I don't advertise. 0 marketing. I don't want to disclose some things on the internet but if people somehow find me it's rare I take those calls. We open cars and make lost keys. I don't do dupes or repairs. Back in the day I carried just about every keying kit there was, had almost every ignition on the truck but no more. Just lost keys and openings.
Do ever get tired of making this same comment? Also how do you program these? I actually had the code from the dealer but I was told even with Witech I’d have to still use a bypass cable which would have been the same process of pulling those 5 screws out.
@@BoredLockpicker Is that for me? I don't know of any other way to do this without the cable. My post wasn't about you. I was just telling the other poster how many of these vehicles including this one are a bit of a PITA.
Thanks. I have an interesting problem, Jeep Compass 2022, Autel 508, I read the pin, but I can't learn the key, Autel dealer key, China key, even OEM(ref), same problem, they all have 4A chip, or maybe there is some difference ?
I had a dealer program a 3rd party fob but only lock, unlock and in-vehicle start worked. To make the proximity unlock work I had to sit with vehicle off, use the top of the key to press the start button. Exit the vehicle and lock with remote. Walk away, then back to the front driver's door. The prox unlock should work. The remote start and panic also required an extra step that I discovered by trial and error. With vehicle off, press and hold the remote start (2x) button, then use the top of the key fob to press the start button. Release remote start button. Now repeat the procedure for the panic button. On my particular remote I have to press the remote start 4 times rather than 2 - but it's just a minor inconvenience. Everything else works now.
Yes he's doing it the hard way. The ADC2011 makes that 12+8 cable obsolete.... Unfortunately I did not know that when I bought it and I bought the 12 + 8 cable at the same time. I've yet to use the 12 + 8 cable. Dude look around for nice green connectors that's where you plug in. They cost $65 on UHS right now. The only problem is you'll need an extension to get to the back seat. I went to the junk yard and cut one up and soldered in 10ft of 2 wire security cable. I'd suggest trimming off most of the barb so it's easier to get back out. When I find the star connector location I make a short if I can't find a concise video. I don't really feel I need to show the whole process just what I didn't know. I don't think many people find them helpful but feel free to look over what I've put up if you have questions. I'm newish to this so enjoy your picking vids. I'm trying to improve on that. God bless
Thanks for showing a job I would probably pass on. When it comes to tearing down large scale trim etc I simply won't do for add a key situations. After having a guy call me back for three weeks complaining about a rattle he never heard before and Me PAYING HIM to make his problem go away...I'm done with those jobs. Lifes too short.
We only do lost keys. We pay for codes as much as possible. If we can't get a lock out easy it doesn't get done. We also don't Lishi. We run 80-150 automotive locksmith calls per week. I turn a lot of stuff down and just do the gravy jobs which most are. Some of the cars are ridiculous all the crap you have to do to make keys for them. If it's someone we know like a tow yard that gives us a lot of work we will make exceptions and yank half the car apart for a MB or something but most we turn down. Euro's are the main ones we turn down.
Some late model GM trucks you can't program without special equipment now and not even sure that really works. Some Toyota's if you don't belong to NASTF you aren't going to be able to do. We are members so not a big deal but the car provides an output code and you pay them for the input code. I don't complain about the extra charges because they don't cost me anything. I pass all these extra charges on to the customer. We are on the more expensive end but usually cheaper than the dealer and we come out to them. If they complain about price I tell them to call someone else and move on to our next calls. Many call me back and apologize when they realize nobody else can do it and the dealer charges more.
We also use mainly OEM fobs to avoid comebacks and give a warranty. That's why I'm expensive but we do it right. Unfortunately dealing with the public has soured me. Many are cheap and or poor and are always the ones that do stupid things. I have zero empathy for them at this point. They will also complain about things that have nothing to do with us. I start out nice and friendly to everyone but when they start their nonsense that's it. I always say cheap and or poor people are bad for business. I am also in a busy affluent area of So. Florida. If I was rural with my attitude I would be in trouble. lol
How you get calls out for work, what marketing tools are you using? @scotts4125
@@bargainhunter6177 I have no website and I don't advertise. 0 marketing. I don't want to disclose some things on the internet but if people somehow find me it's rare I take those calls. We open cars and make lost keys. I don't do dupes or repairs. Back in the day I carried just about every keying kit there was, had almost every ignition on the truck but no more. Just lost keys and openings.
Do ever get tired of making this same comment? Also how do you program these? I actually had the code from the dealer but I was told even with Witech I’d have to still use a bypass cable which would have been the same process of pulling those 5 screws out.
@@BoredLockpicker Is that for me? I don't know of any other way to do this without the cable. My post wasn't about you. I was just telling the other poster how many of these vehicles including this one are a bit of a PITA.
Hello, Thank you for your video! Could you please tell me what type of key you used?
Blue rocket brand from American key supply
Thanks. I have an interesting problem, Jeep Compass 2022, Autel 508, I read the pin, but I can't learn the key, Autel dealer key, China key, even OEM(ref), same problem, they all have 4A chip, or maybe there is some difference ?
You getting 5 digit pin?
It’s not giving me the PIN code ( should I need to update my Autel and the only show me for 2020 options)
I always update mine
Hell yeah man nice work!
Thanks man
What is the number for the part number of the cable again that you were using? I didn’t quite understand that. Can you tell me again.
its linked on should be bottom left of the video on the screen and also there's a link in the description to it. its just a 12 8 cable
Thanks for responding after a little research I did find it and I’ve got it to where I’m going to order it. Thank you again for your help.
Anyone know where the sgw is on a rhd model? Could not find it after looking for half an hour.
On a 22 compass?
@@BoredLockpicker yes
Great. Thank you.
You’re welcome
You still selling the sentry bypass tool
Yes drop me an email theboredlockpicker@gmail.com
I had a dealer program a 3rd party fob but only lock, unlock and in-vehicle start worked.
To make the proximity unlock work I had to sit with vehicle off, use the top of the key to press the start button. Exit the vehicle and lock with remote. Walk away, then back to the front driver's door. The prox unlock should work.
The remote start and panic also required an extra step that I discovered by trial and error. With vehicle off, press and hold the remote start (2x) button, then use the top of the key fob to press the start button. Release remote start button. Now repeat the procedure for the panic button.
On my particular remote I have to press the remote start 4 times rather than 2 - but it's just a minor inconvenience. Everything else works now.
Wow. Never heard of anything like that ever. The key usually programs or it doesn’t on CDJ vehicles
we have a bad situation, after programming the keys to Jeep Compass or Jeep Renegade 2020+, the pressure sensor system TPMS stops working.
That does sound bad.
Yes it happened to me too how can I fix this
How you fix problem? @@besiryigiter2417
@@besiryigiter2417what programmer device you use ?
Can’t you just use the adc2011 cord?
If that’s the smart pro cable that plugs into rf hub I think so. I don’t have a smart pro.
@@BoredLockpicker will km100 be good ?
Since the 508 works I’m sure km100 will work. Just have to use the bypass cable
@@BoredLockpicker thanks I’m a new subscriber 💯
Yes he's doing it the hard way. The ADC2011 makes that 12+8 cable obsolete.... Unfortunately I did not know that when I bought it and I bought the 12 + 8 cable at the same time. I've yet to use the 12 + 8 cable.
Dude look around for nice green connectors that's where you plug in. They cost $65 on UHS right now. The only problem is you'll need an extension to get to the back seat. I went to the junk yard and cut one up and soldered in 10ft of 2 wire security cable. I'd suggest trimming off most of the barb so it's easier to get back out. When I find the star connector location I make a short if I can't find a concise video. I don't really feel I need to show the whole process just what I didn't know. I don't think many people find them helpful but feel free to look over what I've put up if you have questions.
I'm newish to this so enjoy your picking vids. I'm trying to improve on that. God bless
Hello,what about 2024 is same thing or not pleas can help me?
Not sure