I sincerely appreciate you doing this. I just purchased an x95 and I tried removing the foregrip . Finally figured out that it was locked by the lower handguard.
1st video I saw for the field strip / complete disassembly for the X-95, great video. Just got mine a month ago and haven't had to shoot due to moving. However, I want to paint and upgrade too. This will help tremendously, thanks 🙌🏽
@@MNTNMAN-SUCA worth investing? the best investment are the surplus that are no longer made, like sks, mosin, SVT & LE but the ones still in production like X95, these will just keep pace with inflation. i must admit tho, the X95 price is meeting some resistance.
@@gnutzguy For us here in Canada, with all the different platforms that are already banned, for no reason, as a best example is the Robinson Armaments XCR systems. Nice if someone can get stuff "Grandfathered", but that's becoming ever more rare. When you buy an SKS, buy 2; right.?. 1 for parts... But something of modern tech, that'll last as long as you keep it out of the mud😉 lol, a 5.56NATO at short range will drop a moose dead with the right placement.
@@gnutzguy And I meant as a SHTF investment for home and family defense. Bad Moon Arising! From the land of the rising sun direction.😒 Delicate dishware, but I heard some pretty fast nukes!
This is an excellent video, especially due to people crushing their gas tubes. I really appreciate things like (5:22) where you explain how/why parts interlock. Only improvement is maybe mentioning TORQUE settings (in-lb) for reassembly.
Also, I don't think it's strictly necessary to remove the top rail from the barrel. I think the two can remain mated when removing the rail to preserve Zero. When reassembling, need to be careful to slide rear rail tab, into receiver slot.
The barrel lock mechanism on this rifle absolutely sucks. It also sucks that you have to buy the part to even open it (which is $40+ shipping in Canada). I went to change the charging handle slide and the tool broke and my barrel lock is now not opening and I had to give it to a gunsmith to figure out.
I wish I watched this before buying. I’m not a fan of the barrel lock. I guess I can get more familiar with it... Thanks for the great informative video!
good time to make a 3D frame w/ rectangle base and smaller top connected by trapezoid-forming legs (even bowed outward) so your close-ups more easily stay in recording frame... the 3D frame can all be just outside what the camera sees but guide where your hands go for the view you want to be seen... it might even work as well or better to have the top rectangle mounted on your tripod and the bottom just tape on the table
Good evening, I am an 0702. I have a machine gun Rental, I have a full auto Parts Kit and a semi Auto rifle. I am getting ready to start milling the receiver. Do you have any help or any leads? I can produce my SOT any help would be greatly appreciated.
I appreciate it, I got everything milled and everything put together this evening and it works like a champ, I was just a little scared since it’s such an expensive receiver Sorry I was unaware you were in Canada and with your knowledge I kind of assumed you were a dealer or manufacturer yourself. Thank you. Have a great night. Thanks for the video.
if it doesnt melt then the heat deteriorate the plastic over time. thats is why i questioned them using green rubber for extractor spring. what were they thinkin?
Hey, I have a question for you since you seem very knowledgeable on the x95. Mine is brand new and my first day at the range I can’t get the firearm to fire more than a single shot at a time. I have to cock each time to fire. It does eject the fired case but doesn’t pick up the next round. I have tried 3 different types of mags and no change. I called the place where I purchased the firearm FOC but their comment was that I had too many rounds in my 5 round mag that I should try 3 rounds but that didn’t solve the problem, they then said to try fully dissembling and cleaning the firearm and that should help... bla bla bla. They were not much help at all except to say that the salesman there had the same problem at first until he cleaned it completely. I wonder if someone with your experience could shed some light on my problem? Please and thank you.
your bolt is not reaching all the way back. maybe lack of gas or something preventing it. clean the gas system (gas port) and oil the tracks the bolt riding on.
didnt i gave a verbal instruction on how to do it? i dont think it would be worth it cos this vid been posted for over a year and i think you're the first to ask. iirc, when reassembling, just reverse the plate and put the charging handle on the other side.
not for moving the charging handle from one side to the other. cost you nothing to try it. conversion kit is needed when changing from right handed to left. basically, the ejection of casings from one side to the other. my next vid is on the x95, i will try to focus more on the charging handle but i wont swap it. it may help you.
Just got mine back from a gunsmith who probably could have used your video, he left out the foregrip screw and can't find it. Any chance you know what length and thread it is so I can source a replacement?
its common M4 hex head so the shaft is 4mm thick, .7 threading and 40mm long. try to get one with no thread about 20mm of the shaft rather than the entire shaft... same for the screw 7.5" behind it except for the head.... good luck.
I've tried to remove the forend and top rail, only to strip the heads. Your video makes it look like it's zero effort. Any suggestions on getting these things to come out? It's a little aggravating to have a new top rail and charging handle while being unable to take down the rifle without damaging the screws.
I've also heard that some screws may have some loctite on them and folks had to hold a torch to them..not sure if thats the correct method for getting stubborn screws out
@@lencac7952 if it jammed then it need a good cleaning especially at the gas system. That I found the x95 biggest weakness. Not easy to clean the gas tube and impossible to get at the gas port. I had a skinny brush got stuck in there so dont use a skinny brush. Next time a pipe cleaner.
thanks... good to hear new blood coming into our sport and taking it up professionally. i also did a full monty of the Micro. ua-cam.com/video/msCHncS_wdU/v-deo.html
What is wrong with steel rods? The barrel is chrome lined. You should be able to clean with a steel rod from the front too due to the fact you will not dammage the crown like a hunting rifle. Still thanks for the video.
@@gnutzguy Lol, back door is an interesting and colorful way to put it. Yes the manual does, and it's always best to do that. Just an interesting note that the millitary type AR cleaning kit rod, AK rod and many more come with a steel rod. I am careful with it but mainly because I'm old and set in my ways. More recently I actually tried to scratch the barrel of a chrome lined AK, both with the AR and included AK rod and nothing happened. probably okay if they supply it or recomend it with the gun. I did manage to scratch my phone screen though, which sucks.
@Mike Copeland product? For sale? Lol. Hey, cost you nothing to watch. Nope, not an excuse. Just a warning of an in-depth disassembly. Majority of my viewers are appreciative and have no issue with the said "product" . They can figure it out without me holding their hands, lol.
I couldnt find that word but one wonders@@gnutzguy Garand is a great Canadian connection... carbine and sks were cheap long enough to be common wilderness guns... Tavor seems to be a lucky oversight... are all the semi-auto 12ga ok? even ar and ak patterns? hopefully tyranny marches on Moscow before long and human rights resume
Why it feels it's gonna be a lot of work if I want to buy the lefty bolt and change it myself and change the charging handle, safety and all to the appropriate side. (And likely I will never take this gun apart fully forever after seeing your video LOL, so many things can potentially go wrong for me.)
It's really not that much work. You have to pull the barrel to flip the dust cover for the charging handle rod but that's the most complicated thing you'll have to do. Pull the BCG, unscrew pistol grip, unscrew the QD cup under the rail, unscrew the handguard, remove charging handle (important!), then you just turn the barrel lock (while depressing the locking lever on the opposite side) and the barrel then pulls out. Then just throw everything back together on the side you want.
Interesting video. However... It would be nice to see where and how the parts connect and disconnect. It can't be seen BECAUSE... the presenter is out of the camera lens coverage! Hmmm minor detail? I will find a better video where all that is being said is being shown.
@@gnutzguy Klaus M is right. The whole point of a video is to see what is going on, novice or not! I don't remember seeing this video was for experts only in the description, we're all here to learn. He gave useful constructive criticism, you should thank him.
@@stanleybp obviously, you haven't bothered to read further down, it's in the disclaimer, lol. Even if it's not in the disclaimer, FULL disassembly means ADVANCE. I should be thankful, Really? For something I do for free? for something that actually cost me money and time? not to mention it's frustrating dealing with youtube restrictive policies.
Nice.. IWIiiiii !! I Noticed it didnt have a Spring ?! .. sure it is bult inside ?! Or so .. also Wow like 95% its NO Steel part?!... like a Toy?!.. heheh... shieh guess Då Poh-Lease Will Take the Got Gun Away instead of REAL Metall??... also Noted that when Charging... it Sounds Like a Cybergun AK47 (4.5mm) when I Racker mine?!!! ... Very Interesting Tutorial!!
Let's not overthink things. The guy in the field isn't going to tear the rifle down anything like this. He's going to go through his entire training and service maintaining this rifle with nothing more than a tiny bottle of oil and a glorified shoestring (for a bore brush). Virtually none of what you see in this video will ever be done. "Field stripping," as outlined in the owners' manual, consists of simply opening the butt stock an removing that first assembly. It's that simple. NO tools, NO tiny parts to lose, completely idiot-proof. Like the AK series, this rifle will take all manner of neglect and abuse -- then still function flawlessly. About the only time "extra" cleaning will happen is after firing off a mag of tracers or blanks. When that happens, the innards will be "cleaned" by flushing everything in an automotive parts washer basin then blowing clear with an air hose. If wet conditions are anticipated, the soldier may lightly spritz the internals with something like Tri-Flo or BreakFree.
you are underthinking things, lol. there are many who are interested in going beyond field stripping even as simple as changing handguard to extreme changing caliber. thats why this vid is quite popular.
@@gnutzguy I wasn't watch'n on my phone which is only 2 months old now. My screen's on My PC are 26" each there are 3. What I see is; he would say something Then: he would pull the weapon back toward himself to do the work and you Wouldn't see him doing the work until he leaned back towards the camera which is in front of Him. I've got an 50" Tv in my front room, I will hook it/ them to my PC and see what happens.
ah, i see when you said adjust my camera, you dont mean quality. unfortunately, i dont like to move my camera angle around, i spend too much time editing after as it is, makes its more difficult to splice segments together when camera angle changes. when handle a firearm, expect it will be out of view for a few seconds but hopefully nothing important. sorry, about that.
sorry!but i think you need to retake the whole video! becouse your camera is not on good focus!you need a take two,so that the viewers can see it and understand clearly! lots of your subscriber wants to learn🙂
Maybe I'm being presumptuous, but your description of how to clean the barrel lacks some basic firearms cleaning knowledge. Cleaning from muzzle end is not ever convenient, its just wrong. Whenever cleaning a barrel, if possible ALWAYs Clean from chamber end to avoid 1) damaging the crown ( which would degrade accuracy and 2) pushing crud and solvent into the receiver.
@@idontno0 nobody said tavor is a Commie gun. you really need to reread. We were talking about basic cleaning knowledge . Btw the predecessor of tavor was the galil and that was a Commie gun, lol
gnutzguy took a few extra steps for barrel removal in this vid. It's a disassembly tutorial, and wasn't meant for a simple barrel swap. The following steps will remove the barrel with a minimum of work: 1 - Push pin on backdoor of gun and remove BCG. 2 - remove the top handguard screw, it is 3mm allen wrench 3 - Remove or loosen the pistol grip screw, which is a large philips, and pull grip assembly down so the tab comes out of the handguard. 4 - Pull handguard off of the front 5 - Pull charging handle out the front 6 - Turn barrel lock, and pull barrel assembly complete with optics rail out the front. It will pretty much retain zero this way, no need to remove optic. The whole barrel swap can easily be completed in less than 10 minutes, and requires only 3 tools.
@@gnutzguy I'm as gun engineer see how many stuffs were made for nothing,it increases weight,it could be easier way more than it is.But engineers in iwi are not bad guys at all.Kinda better than even HK tho
not bad? i wonder cos the way they solved the issue of the soldiers damaging the recoil buffer in my micro surplus which complicated the new bolt disassembly. wouldnt it be simpler if they just attached the block on the buttplate instead of the buffer and left the bolt alone? what do you think? from a gun engineer point of view. see the end of the micro full monty. ua-cam.com/video/msCHncS_wdU/v-deo.html
@@gnutzguy do you mean put recoil spring and whole bolt carrier assembly to the buttplate which you do shouldering instead of put it in this kinda buffer?I think no affects would be happen at all. And i think it would be more comfortable to have everything in one piece,who knows why they've made this that way.And actually x95 was estimated for special forces and for cqb in cities,maybe police,army guys didn't like it in Israel. Coz it so much complicated, therefore,i would make it easier way more that that,to save it lightweight, more reliable etc.Fast barrel swap not needed so much in any combat,but it would be better to swap it faster like acr,scar,or better as drd paratus.This gun overengineered for standard rifleman,and even for special in some cases as gas block regulations and barrel swapping.But i believe it so cool to shoot
You have just shown me why I shouldn’t buy this at all there’s way too much plastic and way too many screws and pins. More reason why I would prefer an AR-15 for its simplicity. No wonder US military hasn’t adopted bullpup rifles yet there just isn’t one that can replace the AR platform
All the parts that make it work mechanically are metal; the plastic is just a shell for it all (and separately, the shell for the trigger pack, although I'd recommend one of the aftermarket packs; I have a Geissele which is a big improvement, and all metal though I don't care much about that part). The rifle is ridiculously reliable, as witnessed by its military users. Today I cleaned my 300BLK X95 for the first time in a few thousand suppressed rounds (see my ridiculous story above) and as usual I was amazed at how it just kind of refuses to get really dirty. It just runs and runs. As to the pins and screws, I'm not sure how it compares unfavorably to an AR. Pulling a trigger from an AR (even a drop-in) requires driving 2 pins out, same as the X95 except in the AR they aren't conveniently captive. Pulling the bolt requires pulling one captive pin just like this. Taking the bolt out of the carrier you need to pull a cotter pin, here you drive one out. Taking the barrel out of an AR requires special tools, whereas here you could get it done with a big flathead screwdriver in a pinch. Plus there's no buffer tube nor a bunch of detents to keep track of. Really it seems to me that from a field stripping & cleaning standpoint the X95 is super convenient. I can do a normal quick cleaning on the X95 faster than I can do an AR, and I have done ARs way more times. I have ARs as well of course, and I'm a big fan of the platform. In particular I love the extreme variety and interchangeability of it. I have uppers in .50 Beowulf, 6.5 Grendel, 300BLK, 5.56 and 9mm and can swap them around however I please, and there's just a ludicrous market for parts and accessories. All of that is a huge advantage over the X95 from a consumer's perspective...I can't even buy another 300BLK barrel if I want one, in any length. But in terms of pure performance and useability I consider the X95 a really strong contender.
@@huntercook6605 Thank you for taking your time to tell me more about the Tavor. I really like the looks of it and bullpup is really the future for the military for the fact that they are compact has more weight closer to the body and there’s no need for trimming off the barrel length and sacrifice ballistic and terminal performance. But the one thing I like the most about AR is the minimal amount of plastic it uses, which makes it a good candidate for precision rifle. The only problem about the Tavor is what you said about the ability to remove components easily including the barrel. For most precision rifles the barrels are tightly installed into the receiver. So the question is would removing and reinstalling the barrel on Tavor possibly shift the the point of impact? Have you tested on that? Is the Tavor capable to shoot sub-MOA?
@@philipng6598 No, I would not consider it a great design for a precision rifle. I don't know if it's possible to get one to shoot sub-MOA but mine certainly doesn't. Then again no rifle will do that with me behind the trigger lol. It's really intended as a regular infantry combat rifle that's accurate enough for normal engagements, easy to handle, and extremely reliable. Those are things I value, but if your main goal is extreme accuracy it's probably not a good choice, and indeed probably no bullpup is.
@@gnutzguy the thin barrel does not float and is weak in two parts or ring-shaped grooves that cause lack of accuracy and many harmonics, tavor 7 has gas regulation
I sincerely appreciate you doing this. I just purchased an x95 and I tried removing the foregrip . Finally figured out that it was locked by the lower handguard.
You’re off camera for all the salient install portions. Wow, maddening.
Please read disclaimers then press next
1st video I saw for the field strip / complete disassembly for the X-95, great video. Just got mine a month ago and haven't had to shoot due to moving. However, I want to paint and upgrade too. This will help tremendously, thanks 🙌🏽
Ya welcome. I'm sure it will look awesome after you paint it.
Happy to see a fellow Canuck who is making good, intelligible video's. And thank you for your service sir.
thanks a bunch.
@@gnutzguy Since our Government banned the XCR platform, is this firearm worth the investment sir?
@@MNTNMAN-SUCA worth investing? the best investment are the surplus that are no longer made, like sks, mosin, SVT & LE but the ones still in production like X95, these will just keep pace with inflation. i must admit tho, the X95 price is meeting some resistance.
@@gnutzguy For us here in Canada, with all the different platforms that are already banned, for no reason, as a best example is the Robinson Armaments XCR systems. Nice if someone can get stuff "Grandfathered", but that's becoming ever more rare. When you buy an SKS, buy 2; right.?. 1 for parts... But something of modern tech, that'll last as long as you keep it out of the mud😉 lol, a 5.56NATO at short range will drop a moose dead with the right placement.
@@gnutzguy And I meant as a SHTF investment for home and family defense. Bad Moon Arising! From the land of the rising sun direction.😒 Delicate dishware, but I heard some pretty fast nukes!
This is an excellent video, especially due to people crushing their gas tubes.
I really appreciate things like (5:22) where you explain how/why parts interlock.
Only improvement is maybe mentioning TORQUE settings (in-lb) for reassembly.
Also, I don't think it's strictly necessary to remove the top rail from the barrel.
I think the two can remain mated when removing the rail to preserve Zero.
When reassembling, need to be careful to slide rear rail tab, into receiver slot.
IWI's video here covers the minimum:
ua-cam.com/video/EbEoO9dpr3w/v-deo.html
thanks for your input.
Excelent video couldnt have done it without you. Thanks
Glad I could help. i also have a full monty on my MSW if you need.
The barrel lock mechanism on this rifle absolutely sucks. It also sucks that you have to buy the part to even open it (which is $40+ shipping in Canada). I went to change the charging handle slide and the tool broke and my barrel lock is now not opening and I had to give it to a gunsmith to figure out.
i hear ya. thats one of my biggest complaint of this gun.
I wish I watched this before buying. I’m not a fan of the barrel lock. I guess I can get more familiar with it... Thanks for the great informative video!
ya welcome
Good video, the camera angle/ view was not correct several times so I couldn’t see what you were doing , but overall an in-depth video. Thanks
good time to make a 3D frame
w/ rectangle base and smaller top
connected by trapezoid-forming legs
(even bowed outward) so your close-ups
more easily stay in recording frame...
the 3D frame can all be just outside
what the camera sees but guide
where your hands go for the view
you want to be seen... it might even
work as well or better to have the top
rectangle mounted on your tripod
and the bottom just tape on the table
How do you take the rotating barrel lock assembly out? You left it installed
Just push it after turning. It slides out.
Thank you for a great video! is it possible to contact you with some questions on the x95?
How to convert a fully auto
lol.
Great video!!! Is it possible to make a video about how to change to the left hand？
nope cos its not much more than what i shown you. maybe this will help. ua-cam.com/video/msCHncS_wdU/v-deo.html
Good evening, I am an 0702. I have a machine gun Rental, I have a full auto Parts Kit and a semi Auto rifle. I am getting ready to start milling the receiver. Do you have any help or any leads? I can produce my SOT any help would be greatly appreciated.
sorry, we cant do any full auto in canada, unfortunately.
I appreciate it, I got everything milled and everything put together this evening and it works like a champ, I was just a little scared since it’s such an expensive receiver
Sorry I was unaware you were in Canada and with your knowledge I kind of assumed you were a dealer or manufacturer yourself. Thank you. Have a great night. Thanks for the video.
@jamiebrierly3107 I got bad news. Last Thurs the liberal government of Canada ban all tavor, sad day.
This is by far the best video I've seen.
thanks, i also have the Micro in Full monty.
Great details. Thank you for posting this
Ya welcome.
How do you take off the mag release lever? You did not dissemble that part.
i need to investigate that, it might be included in the bolt and FCG disassembly.
@@gnutzguy thanks, I want to add something like a bolt in the little hole so it will be easier to use the lever.
what lever?
The lever that holds the magazine in. It rocks when the magazine release button is pressed.
Will changing my safety, the safety selector body pushed in. How do I get it back into place?
sorry, i missed seeing this earlier. i dont understand, whats the "safety selector body" ? the whole selector itself?
bookmarking this. incredibly useful video thank you very very much! :)
Glad it was helpful!
How does the bolt carrier assembly come apart on this rifle? It looks different to me than the US disassembly videos that I've seen.
It's coming.
@@gnutzguy Cool, thanks!
Very thorough, thank you for doing this video
Glad it was helpful!
Can the gas system be removed from the barrel so it can be put in a lathe chuck?
No, bcos it was heated, pressed and pinned. you have to use a fixed steady on a lathe.
I guess even the IDF will favor on U.S m4 or M16 easy to disassenble for cleaning.
Do you have any modifications planned for this rifle? If you do I'm excited to see what you come up with!
if you got any ideas?
@@gnutzguy I think PVC piping and silicone go well with it ;P
@@kirigaiakaruto3230 i will eventually get to it but i have quite a few vids to do before that.
Do you know if you need a special tool to adjust the front sight post? I’ve been looking everywhere for an answer
no special tool needed. just a pin on one hand and turn the post with the other hand.
@@gnutzguy I was trying to do that in the field and it would not turn at all. I dug around in my box and found the front sight tool lol
Can that plastic thing around the barrel melt? If The barrel gets hot
if it doesnt melt then the heat deteriorate the plastic over time. thats is why i questioned them using green rubber for extractor spring. what were they thinkin?
Hey, I have a question for you since you seem very knowledgeable on the x95. Mine is brand new and my first day at the range I can’t get the firearm to fire more than a single shot at a time. I have to cock each time to fire. It does eject the fired case but doesn’t pick up the next round. I have tried 3 different types of mags and no change. I called the place where I purchased the firearm FOC but their comment was that I had too many rounds in my 5 round mag that I should try 3 rounds but that didn’t solve the problem, they then said to try fully dissembling and cleaning the firearm and that should help... bla bla bla. They were not much help at all except to say that the salesman there had the same problem at first until he cleaned it completely. I wonder if someone with your experience could shed some light on my problem? Please and thank you.
your bolt is not reaching all the way back. maybe lack of gas or something preventing it. clean the gas system (gas port) and oil the tracks the bolt riding on.
A year too late, probably. But shoot 556 and not 223. 223 gave me the same issues, not a single fail to feed with 556.
@@nickheadd3390 yup, that is exactly the issue. Worked fine with 5.56 but not with .223
Can you do a video on converting the charging handle from right to left for left handed operation?
didnt i gave a verbal instruction on how to do it? i dont think it would be worth it cos this vid been posted for over a year and i think you're the first to ask. iirc, when reassembling, just reverse the plate and put the charging handle on the other side.
@@gnutzguy did you have to get a conversion kit?
not for moving the charging handle from one side to the other. cost you nothing to try it.
conversion kit is needed when changing from right handed to left. basically, the ejection of casings from one side to the other.
my next vid is on the x95, i will try to focus more on the charging handle but i wont swap it. it may help you.
@@gnutzguythank you!!
Just got mine back from a gunsmith who probably could have used your video, he left out the foregrip screw and can't find it. Any chance you know what length and thread it is so I can source a replacement?
thats so funny, you deserved to have me look it up tomorrow. do you know what time on my video that shows the foregrip screw?
@@gnutzguy about 6:48, the allen head screw holding the front rails/ grip to the body.
its common M4 hex head so the shaft is 4mm thick, .7 threading and 40mm long. try to get one with no thread about 20mm of the shaft rather than the entire shaft...
same for the screw 7.5" behind it except for the head.... good luck.
@@gnutzguy thanks so much!
I've tried to remove the forend and top rail, only to strip the heads. Your video makes it look like it's zero effort. Any suggestions on getting these things to come out?
It's a little aggravating to have a new top rail and charging handle while being unable to take down the rifle without damaging the screws.
I really had zero effort. I highly recommend getting a precision set of screw drivers which includes very sizes of heads.
Any idea the specs on those rail screws? Mine came out a little crunchy and I want to replace them. Are they m6? What size?
I've also heard that some screws may have some loctite on them and folks had to hold a torch to them..not sure if thats the correct method for getting stubborn screws out
What happened if the rifle hugs refuses to strip
Rifle lugs? Where?
Very interesting, very complicated rifle. Now I know why I like AR's better.
Yes indeed and you have not even talked about the bolt and FCG, lol.
@@gnutzguy Almost afraid to watch your vid on the bolt and FCG. Friend of mine got one and he says it jams. So I was boning-up on it.
@@lencac7952 if it jammed then it need a good cleaning especially at the gas system. That I found the x95 biggest weakness. Not easy to clean the gas tube and impossible to get at the gas port. I had a skinny brush got stuck in there so dont use a skinny brush. Next time a pipe cleaner.
That’s why I am going to trade my x95 in on a Aug. Better design and easier take down. New and improved isn’t always better.
This really isn't that complicated a gun at all.
Do they make a dual charging handle? Like the original police models...ambi ..
Not military but I cant see why you couldn't add a mantifore accessory charging handle. Just need to mod the dust cover.
You literally just buy a second charging handle assembly and drop it in, thats what the police models have
What's a difference between semi and full auto tavor??
I think it's only the fire control group (FCG)
@kevin pierson thanks for the confirmation
Safety selector, bolt carrier, receiver, trigger pack
Bunch of whiners, thanks for the vid, for now this is my resource video, as a tavor owner and apprenticing gunsmith, I love full disassembly
thanks... good to hear new blood coming into our sport and taking it up professionally. i also did a full monty of the Micro. ua-cam.com/video/msCHncS_wdU/v-deo.html
Hey do i need to do a detailed full strip for maintenance sir?
no, unless you shot it alot then you need to do a thorough cleaning and inspection for worn or failing parts.
@@gnutzguy how much is alot sir. R u near ptbo? Ontario
nope, westcoast. the gas system is difficult to get at so full monty would be 750-1000 rds, YMMV.
@@gnutzguy ok thanks buddy and oil spots? Lube points, not to much i imagine?
@@mikea8998 check n see if you still have your manual that came with your Hammer. It's all in there. Cheers
Instead of grinding down an Allen key, take a 5/32 hex head ratchet adapter and you have yourself a ratcheting barrel removal tool
dont need a ratchet tool. im only turning 180*
@@gnutzguy the ratchet is more for ease of use versus torquing it down, even just a 5/32 Allen key can do the trick.
What is wrong with steel rods? The barrel is chrome lined. You should be able to clean with a steel rod from the front too due to the fact you will not dammage the crown like a hunting rifle. Still thanks for the video.
its your gun , do what ever you like. steel acts like a file and the manual recommends back door position, lol.
@@gnutzguy Lol, back door is an interesting and colorful way to put it. Yes the manual does, and it's always best to do that. Just an interesting note that the millitary type AR cleaning kit rod, AK rod and many more come with a steel rod. I am careful with it but mainly because I'm old and set in my ways. More recently I actually tried to scratch the barrel of a chrome lined AK, both with the AR and included AK rod and nothing happened. probably okay if they supply it or recomend it with the gun. I did manage to scratch my phone screen though, which sucks.
I want to like it, but there is so much out of frame......:(
Please read disclaimers, thanks.
@@gnutzguy Your "disclaimer" shouldn't be an excuse for a poor product. Either you are trying to convey knowledge or sow frustration.
@Mike Copeland product? For sale? Lol. Hey, cost you nothing to watch. Nope, not an excuse. Just a warning of an in-depth disassembly. Majority of my viewers are appreciative and have no issue with the said "product" . They can figure it out without me holding their hands, lol.
nice/interesting this
and m1 gar or car and sks
are still ok north of MT
given whats been nixed
Lol, they are coming for those too.
I couldnt find that word but one wonders@@gnutzguy
Garand is a great Canadian connection... carbine and sks were cheap long enough to be common wilderness guns... Tavor seems to be a lucky oversight... are all the semi-auto 12ga ok? even ar and ak patterns? hopefully tyranny marches on Moscow before long and human rights resume
AFTER MARKET MAG RELEASE PARTS WHEN?!!!
Why it feels it's gonna be a lot of work if I want to buy the lefty bolt and change it myself and change the charging handle, safety and all to the appropriate side. (And likely I will never take this gun apart fully forever after seeing your video LOL, so many things can potentially go wrong for me.)
But that's the point of my Full Monty, watch it a few times and it won't be soooo intimated. Good thing you aren't changing the barrel, lol
It's really not that much work. You have to pull the barrel to flip the dust cover for the charging handle rod but that's the most complicated thing you'll have to do. Pull the BCG, unscrew pistol grip, unscrew the QD cup under the rail, unscrew the handguard, remove charging handle (important!), then you just turn the barrel lock (while depressing the locking lever on the opposite side) and the barrel then pulls out. Then just throw everything back together on the side you want.
十分详细的讲解，非常棒！👍
感谢您
google translation.
24:15 I see a p90.
You didn't even remove the bolt and firing pin...
did you fall asleep in first minute of my vid? LMAO. also read the description.
4:08 you say " your not going to disassemble this" lol
@@idontno0 lol. If you watched the beginning of the vid and you still don't understand it then just let it go, click next... Thanks
11:37 this is getting intense. Haha
Very smart work
Thanks 👍
Bore snake works well on the X95.
bore snake is useless on stubborn carbon.
Interesting video. However... It would be nice to see where and how the parts connect and disconnect. It can't be seen BECAUSE... the presenter is out of the camera lens coverage! Hmmm minor detail? I will find a better video where all that is being said is being shown.
Sorry, this is a full disassembly, not meant for novices. non-novices should be able to figure out what I'm doing when off camera.
@@gnutzguy Klaus M is right. The whole point of a video is to see what is going on, novice or not! I don't remember seeing this video was for experts only in the description, we're all here to learn. He gave useful constructive criticism, you should thank him.
@@stanleybp obviously, you haven't bothered to read further down, it's in the disclaimer, lol. Even if it's not in the disclaimer, FULL disassembly means ADVANCE. I should be thankful, Really? For something I do for free? for something that actually cost me money and time? not to mention it's frustrating dealing with youtube restrictive policies.
It’s a very good rifle but damn it’s so expensive
yup, it's expensive.
Compared to what?
A Daniel Defense? No.
A PSA? Yes.
A BCM? Barely.
Radian? Sionics? SOLGW? Aero?
AUG?
CZ Bren 2?
Nice.. IWIiiiii !! I Noticed it didnt have a Spring ?! .. sure it is bult inside ?! Or so .. also Wow like 95% its NO Steel part?!... like a Toy?!.. heheh... shieh guess Då Poh-Lease Will Take the Got Gun Away instead of REAL Metall??... also Noted that when Charging... it Sounds Like a Cybergun AK47 (4.5mm) when I Racker mine?!!! ... Very Interesting Tutorial!!
Let's not overthink things.
The guy in the field isn't going to tear the rifle down anything like this. He's going to go through his entire training and service maintaining this rifle with nothing more than a tiny bottle of oil and a glorified shoestring (for a bore brush). Virtually none of what you see in this video will ever be done. "Field stripping," as outlined in the owners' manual, consists of simply opening the butt stock an removing that first assembly. It's that simple. NO tools, NO tiny parts to lose, completely idiot-proof.
Like the AK series, this rifle will take all manner of neglect and abuse -- then still function flawlessly.
About the only time "extra" cleaning will happen is after firing off a mag of tracers or blanks. When that happens, the innards will be "cleaned" by flushing everything in an automotive parts washer basin then blowing clear with an air hose. If wet conditions are anticipated, the soldier may lightly spritz the internals with something like Tri-Flo or BreakFree.
you are underthinking things, lol. there are many who are interested in going beyond field stripping even as simple as changing handguard to extreme changing caliber. thats why this vid is quite popular.
Can't see shit 💩 Ya NEED TO adjust your camera📸⬆ PLEASE🙏🏽
lol. i dont know how to say this without sounding rude but i think its time you upgraded your phone/tablet/PC or get a new prescription glasses.
@@gnutzguy I wasn't watch'n on my phone which is only 2 months old now. My screen's on My PC are 26" each there are 3. What I see is; he would say something Then: he would pull the weapon back toward himself to do the work and you Wouldn't see him doing the work until he leaned back towards the camera which is in front of Him. I've got an 50" Tv in my front room, I will hook it/ them to my PC and see what happens.
ah, i see when you said adjust my camera, you dont mean quality. unfortunately, i dont like to move my camera angle around, i spend too much time editing after as it is, makes its more difficult to splice segments together when camera angle changes. when handle a firearm, expect it will be out of view for a few seconds but hopefully nothing important. sorry, about that.
Awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it
sorry!but i think you need to retake the whole video! becouse your camera is not on good focus!you need a take two,so that the viewers can see it and understand clearly! lots of your subscriber wants to learn🙂
lol. please read disclaimer.
Maybe I'm being presumptuous, but your description of how to clean the barrel lacks some basic firearms cleaning knowledge. Cleaning from muzzle end is not ever convenient, its just wrong. Whenever cleaning a barrel, if possible ALWAYs Clean from chamber end to avoid 1) damaging the crown ( which would degrade accuracy and 2) pushing crud and solvent into the receiver.
i see you have no experience with commie guns, lol. ua-cam.com/video/Ylj_lEDeutw/v-deo.html
@@gnutzguysince when is Tavor a commie gun
@@gnutzguyis it in the manual to go tip to chamber?
Page 45. "always start from the chamber end towards the muzzle. "
@@idontno0 nobody said tavor is a Commie gun. you really need to reread. We were talking about basic cleaning knowledge . Btw the predecessor of tavor was the galil and that was a Commie gun, lol
Goood video!
You are off camera for a quarter of the video.
@@mrsnickers2003 please read disclaimer
Disclaimer read. Please make better videos. How is it our fault you can't keep in frame? This would be a good video otherwise.
Lol, full monty huh? And not even taking the bolt assembly apart? Ok...
Lol. Please read description
Thanks for the meticulous video, now I know what gun NOT to purchase. Too many steps to get barrel out.
yup, lol.
What? Not that hard.
gnutzguy took a few extra steps for barrel removal in this vid. It's a disassembly tutorial, and wasn't meant for a simple barrel swap.
The following steps will remove the barrel with a minimum of work:
1 - Push pin on backdoor of gun and remove BCG.
2 - remove the top handguard screw, it is 3mm allen wrench
3 - Remove or loosen the pistol grip screw, which is a large philips, and pull grip assembly down so the tab comes out of the handguard.
4 - Pull handguard off of the front
5 - Pull charging handle out the front
6 - Turn barrel lock, and pull barrel assembly complete with optics rail out the front. It will pretty much retain zero this way, no need to remove optic.
The whole barrel swap can easily be completed in less than 10 minutes, and requires only 3 tools.
So complicated
so complicated and yet, no easy access to gas tube and gas chamber without removing the barrel. Crazy
@@gnutzguy I'm as gun engineer see how many stuffs were made for nothing,it increases weight,it could be easier way more than it is.But engineers in iwi are not bad guys at all.Kinda better than even HK tho
not bad? i wonder cos the way they solved the issue of the soldiers damaging the recoil buffer in my micro surplus which complicated the new bolt disassembly. wouldnt it be simpler if they just attached the block on the buttplate instead of the buffer and left the bolt alone? what do you think? from a gun engineer point of view. see the end of the micro full monty. ua-cam.com/video/msCHncS_wdU/v-deo.html
@@gnutzguy do you mean put recoil spring and whole bolt carrier assembly to the buttplate which you do shouldering instead of put it in this kinda buffer?I think no affects would be happen at all. And i think it would be more comfortable to have everything in one piece,who knows why they've made this that way.And actually x95 was estimated for special forces and for cqb in cities,maybe police,army guys didn't like it in Israel. Coz it so much complicated, therefore,i would make it easier way more that that,to save it lightweight, more reliable etc.Fast barrel swap not needed so much in any combat,but it would be better to swap it faster like acr,scar,or better as drd paratus.This gun overengineered for standard rifleman,and even for special in some cases as gas block regulations and barrel swapping.But i believe it so cool to shoot
@@gnutzguy and what if they wanted to make it just more expensive than other rifle ls?😅
You have just shown me why I shouldn’t buy this at all there’s way too much plastic and way too many screws and pins. More reason why I would prefer an AR-15 for its simplicity. No wonder US military hasn’t adopted bullpup rifles yet there just isn’t one that can replace the AR platform
I hate to tell you but bullpups are the future. It's not perfect yet but in couple of generations. It will be common.
All the parts that make it work mechanically are metal; the plastic is just a shell for it all (and separately, the shell for the trigger pack, although I'd recommend one of the aftermarket packs; I have a Geissele which is a big improvement, and all metal though I don't care much about that part). The rifle is ridiculously reliable, as witnessed by its military users. Today I cleaned my 300BLK X95 for the first time in a few thousand suppressed rounds (see my ridiculous story above) and as usual I was amazed at how it just kind of refuses to get really dirty. It just runs and runs.
As to the pins and screws, I'm not sure how it compares unfavorably to an AR. Pulling a trigger from an AR (even a drop-in) requires driving 2 pins out, same as the X95 except in the AR they aren't conveniently captive. Pulling the bolt requires pulling one captive pin just like this. Taking the bolt out of the carrier you need to pull a cotter pin, here you drive one out. Taking the barrel out of an AR requires special tools, whereas here you could get it done with a big flathead screwdriver in a pinch. Plus there's no buffer tube nor a bunch of detents to keep track of. Really it seems to me that from a field stripping & cleaning standpoint the X95 is super convenient. I can do a normal quick cleaning on the X95 faster than I can do an AR, and I have done ARs way more times.
I have ARs as well of course, and I'm a big fan of the platform. In particular I love the extreme variety and interchangeability of it. I have uppers in .50 Beowulf, 6.5 Grendel, 300BLK, 5.56 and 9mm and can swap them around however I please, and there's just a ludicrous market for parts and accessories. All of that is a huge advantage over the X95 from a consumer's perspective...I can't even buy another 300BLK barrel if I want one, in any length. But in terms of pure performance and useability I consider the X95 a really strong contender.
@@huntercook6605 Thank you for taking your time to tell me more about the Tavor. I really like the looks of it and bullpup is really the future for the military for the fact that they are compact has more weight closer to the body and there’s no need for trimming off the barrel length and sacrifice ballistic and terminal performance. But the one thing I like the most about AR is the minimal amount of plastic it uses, which makes it a good candidate for precision rifle.
The only problem about the Tavor is what you said about the ability to remove components easily including the barrel. For most precision rifles the barrels are tightly installed into the receiver. So the question is would removing and reinstalling the barrel on Tavor possibly shift the the point of impact? Have you tested on that? Is the Tavor capable to shoot sub-MOA?
@@philipng6598 No, I would not consider it a great design for a precision rifle. I don't know if it's possible to get one to shoot sub-MOA but mine certainly doesn't. Then again no rifle will do that with me behind the trigger lol. It's really intended as a regular infantry combat rifle that's accurate enough for normal engagements, easy to handle, and extremely reliable. Those are things I value, but if your main goal is extreme accuracy it's probably not a good choice, and indeed probably no bullpup is.
tavor x95 the barrel is garbage,....tavor 7 or tar 21 is superior
i havent heard about that and besides the x95 came after tar 21 so why would it be worst? wouldnt they've fixed it the following years?
@@gnutzguy the thin barrel does not float and is weak in two parts or ring-shaped grooves that cause lack of accuracy and many harmonics, tavor 7 has gas regulation
Its too com🎉plicated
You didn't disassemble the trigger
Aye bcos 40 min was too long and it seems most people don't miss it after all two years later, you are the first, lol.