These videos are so helpful, it's actually easy to understand. Now I have a question as well. Hopefully someone can help me Seems like my Skimmer was plumbed-in with the same line as my Main Drain. No shut-off valve was ever installed in front of my pump. It's just 1 straight pvc line. When I use my Gizmo Blow Out to blow out my lines, I must quickly cover the top of the gizmo in order to create that air pocket as in this video for the Main drain to start bubbling for 30 seconds. Soon as I take off the blower, lots of water starts entering the skimmer even with the water level being 3 inches below the tile level. My question is, How would I use Anti-Freeze for my skimmer line if my skimmer pvc line is being shared also with my Main Drain??
Came across your video while trying to find instructions about blowing out the main drain for winter. I am confused how my pool plumbing is setup. I connected air compressor to blow out all my lines. I was able to blow out my 2 skimmers and all the returns. But I am not able to do this for the main drain. I have tried so many things but just can't figure this out. No matter what lever I change....I just do not see bubbles coming out from main drain. Any idea what is going on?
This is the first year I tried to close my pool and live in NYC ,everything went well except the bottom returns. I have bottom returns and not main drain in my inground pool. Plus my equipment is below the pool level and if valve is open it siphons water out. I tried to use a compressor with a blow through valve and a shop vac but get water burping back after I try to air lock it. I bought a 1.6hp sump pump and pumped 2 jugs of antifreeze into the line to mix with the water. Any other advice would be greatly appreciate
Thank you Rob and Matthew! Is the procedure for dual bottom drains situation (directly connected to the filter, not through skimmer) any different? I tried to follow the procedure you suggested and results were... mixed. The air pocket doesn't seem to hold and the water eventually fills the pipe. I ended up blowing it multiple times throughout the winter, eventually gave up and pumped antifreeze into it. I suspect it has to do with the drain line forking in two under the pool (and "T" effectively acting as a vent). Any advice?
The process could apply. But you may also be able to use pool anti-freeze to protect the pipes. It would depend on how your spa is plumbed to the rest of the equipment, or if it is a standalone spa.
How do I winterize my series of pop-up jets on the floor of my pool? In other words if I blow air and they pop up and blow air and then fall down, is that create an air lock similar to the main drain? Thanks, Gregory
The winterizing instructions for the Jandy Caretaker system suggests removing heads for all that are above freezing line and blowing them out and plugging with rubber expandables (heads that are on upper steps). The cleaner heads that are below the freezing line can be left as is as they are deep enough to not be affected by frost. In an ideal situation you would be able to create an air lock in each plumbed branch of the cleaning heads. To do this you would need to blow through each port of the valve until you see air bubble up from the heads at bottom of pool. You would then need to immediately plug the port you are blowing into without letting the pressurized air escape which would trap the air in the plumbed line and prevent the water from seeping back into piping. Not an easy task since when you turnoff/remove the Shop-Vac the pressurized air will escape the line. Also not sure if a Shop-Vac has enough pressure to force air through cleaner heads at bottom of pool. Best method seems to be replumbing the valve so that each port has a shutoff valve that can be closed simultaneously while air is being blown.
I have an old in ground pool with two main drains and two skimmers. The problem is that the shallow end drain is connected to the shallow end skimmer and the deep end drain is connected to the deep end skimmer. Those connections are under ground (The skimmers do not have two holes like the second config in your video). What is the best way to clear that type line? We saw a pool tech put a blow-off expansion tube in the skimmer, blow air in the top, quickly pour in antifreeze, blow more air in, and then quickly put the expansion tub cap back on. Is that the only way?
I am a new pool owner and will be doing this myself. After air locking the main drain do you just hope you don’t have a leaking valve? If so I would imagine you are in serious trouble.
@@jonathanhazlett8880 If you hear air escaping around the main drain valve then it’s not holding tight, but a new one should. I airlock mine and also use a plug in my pump housing for backup.
@@cwsosby may I ask what kind of diverter you have? Mine is Pentair, which I think is part of the problem. I've seen reviews regarding air leaks as well.
@@jonathanhazlett8880 it’s all Pentair. I can send you a few pics of my set up back here @ the valve and pump if you think it would help. It definitely makes me nervous relying on that airlock though. I live in Iowa, so it gets cold.
@@cwsosby thank you. I'm even trying to figure out a temporary fix, but to no avail. Not sure how to share photos without revealing an email address to everyone on YT.
New to pools, I am currently have an issues with the pool main drain. Water was completely removed from the in ground pool that has not been used in over 5 years and the main drain continues to fill with water after 5 or more days using a pump that removes water. Could this be a cracked pvc, water continues to come but appears clear. My question is, is it safe to add new water to feel the pool because of the chlorine or should I have clear water tested. Crazy question but this is my option from the current landlord of the house.
There's something called the "clean out plug" in the main drain used to prevent a pool shell from "popping." Do you know when a toaster is done, and the bread pops up halfway? That's what a pool popping looks like. If the plug is in there, but you still see water enter the pool, get a plumber to come out and find the suspected leak. Check that your main drain has this clean-out plug. We show you how to access it and what it does in the following link: ua-cam.com/video/F9SlkL_AiHY/v-deo.html
2 місяці тому
Thanks guys my main drain line runs into skimmer I have lowered water below skimmer and jets however water keeps coming up through main drain line into skimmer I have tried blowing it out and also sucking water out but keeps coming up through main drain into skimmer I’m afraid with water coming all the way up to skimmer it’s going to freeze and crack.
Hey guys, I’m closing my above ground pool and I already put the plug in the center drain inside the pool and closed the valve at the filter the other day. I will now put on the thru wall skimmer plate and close that valve at the filter, plug the main return and the 2nd return with thru wall light fixture. Once that’s done and I disconnect the pump and DE Filter canister do I have to do anything else with the lines to the pool? I have been hearing that it’s important to blow out the lines but I don’t think I can anymore since I put the plugs in at the pool side interface. Is that correct? Or should I pour antifreeze in the ends of lines outside the pool? Would appreciate any help ASAP. Thanks!
what if you close the main drain valve but hear water slowly running into the line somewhere. What if you replace the parts of the Jandy valve but still hear it...?
Is this a two-way or a three-way valve? if it is a two-way valve, something is still not installed correctly. In a two-way valve, there's only one inlet and one outlet. If there's water getting through, there is a bad gasket, or a diverter isn't aligned properly. If this is a three-way valve, it could still be an installation issue, but you could be confused by the second inlet noise for sounds coming from the main drain pipe.
@@Inyopools Thanks for the response. It's a two way. Maybe something wrong with the valve body, since I replaced all the gaskets and handle assembly? Not sure what else it could be. Now the fun part --- how do you cut out and replace the main drain valve once a pool has been winterized? Sawzall it off and just be quick about gluing the new one on while water gushes around? ...... ideas?
I do the same thing, but I think the Pentair diverter is garbage since air still leaks from the main drain pipe when it's closed (I just tried replacing the part the seals off the pipe with a new part). Frustrating... not sure what to do besides having a different brand of diverter installed, or by having an in-line valve installed for the main drain line.
Hello, thank you for the video, very helpful 🙂 I have the same situation, my skimmer has 2 ports, and the one that connects the main drain to the skimmer is sealed. Why wouldn't I try to open it and add the foam? I worry that over the winter the water level will rise as the snow accumulates
Yes, you could add pool-friendly antifreeze to a main drain line if you have a point of access like a diverter or check valve to be able to pour it directly into the line.
This didn't actually say how to or if the water needs to removed in the 2nd example. Do we blow into that hole until air bubbles? Or, just insert foaming with the water in it?
No, you do not need to blow out that equalizer line. At the 1:40 mark, we mention lowering the water below the skimmer. After that, you can insert the foam into the line.
@@Inyopools what if you have this and a fiberglass pool? Is it ok to lower it that much? I believe the previous owners did but I guess it just makes me nervous
First off, thank you for the video - this is the best, clearest, and most concise description of how to do this for the various plumbing configurations. Regarding the foam rope, I can only get about 8” of the rope into my equalizer line before it just gets stuck (assume I’m hitting a bend in the pipe?). I am using 3/4” foam - is there a technique I should be using for this? Otherwise, I have no idea how else to winterize this line. Thanks!
Guide a fish tape through the pipe, tie the foam rope to the end, then pull out the fish tape through the same end you inserted it. This method is also used to pull pool light cable through the niche conduit.
These videos are so helpful, it's actually easy to understand.
Now I have a question as well.
Hopefully someone can help me
Seems like my Skimmer was plumbed-in with the same line as my Main Drain. No shut-off valve was ever installed in front of my pump. It's just 1 straight pvc line.
When I use my Gizmo Blow Out to blow out my lines, I must quickly cover the top of the gizmo in order to create that air pocket as in this video for the Main drain to start bubbling for 30 seconds. Soon as I take off the blower, lots of water starts entering the skimmer even with the water level being 3 inches below the tile level.
My question is, How would I use Anti-Freeze for my skimmer line if my skimmer pvc line is being shared also with my Main Drain??
This is the only video i found that actually is down to the actual steps.
Came across your video while trying to find instructions about blowing out the main drain for winter. I am confused how my pool plumbing is setup. I connected air compressor to blow out all my lines. I was able to blow out my 2 skimmers and all the returns. But I am not able to do this for the main drain. I have tried so many things but just can't figure this out. No matter what lever I change....I just do not see bubbles coming out from main drain. Any idea what is going on?
your compressor isn't strong enough probably. Or you didn't open the right valve.
This is the first year I tried to close my pool and live in NYC ,everything went well except the bottom returns.
I have bottom returns and not main drain in my inground pool. Plus my equipment is below the pool level and if valve is open it siphons water out. I tried to use a compressor with a blow through valve and a shop vac but get water burping back after I try to air lock it. I bought a 1.6hp sump pump and pumped 2 jugs of antifreeze into the line to mix with the water. Any other advice would be greatly appreciate
Thank you Rob and Matthew! Is the procedure for dual bottom drains situation (directly connected to the filter, not through skimmer) any different? I tried to follow the procedure you suggested and results were... mixed. The air pocket doesn't seem to hold and the water eventually fills the pipe. I ended up blowing it multiple times throughout the winter, eventually gave up and pumped antifreeze into it. I suspect it has to do with the drain line forking in two under the pool (and "T" effectively acting as a vent). Any advice?
It should not creep up on its own unless there is a leak. I'm guessing whatever you're using to plug the line is leaking a bit.
Is this the same for winterizing the main drain in a raised spa? Just air lock it?
The process could apply. But you may also be able to use pool anti-freeze to protect the pipes. It would depend on how your spa is plumbed to the rest of the equipment, or if it is a standalone spa.
Excellent explanation and the graphics certainly helped me.
Would your first explanation of winterizing the main drain apply to a dual (drain) bottom circulation system?
If you can isolate the individual main drain lines, yes it would.
How do I winterize my series of pop-up jets on the floor of my pool? In other words if I blow air and they pop up and blow air and then fall down, is that create an air lock similar to the main drain? Thanks, Gregory
The winterizing instructions for the Jandy Caretaker system suggests removing heads for all that are above freezing line and blowing them out and plugging with rubber expandables (heads that are on upper steps). The cleaner heads that are below the freezing line can be left as is as they are deep enough to not be affected by frost.
In an ideal situation you would be able to create an air lock in each plumbed branch of the cleaning heads. To do this you would need to blow through each port of the valve until you see air bubble up from the heads at bottom of pool. You would then need to immediately plug the port you are blowing into without letting the pressurized air escape which would trap the air in the plumbed line and prevent the water from seeping back into piping. Not an easy task since when you turnoff/remove the Shop-Vac the pressurized air will escape the line. Also not sure if a Shop-Vac has enough pressure to force air through cleaner heads at bottom of pool.
Best method seems to be replumbing the valve so that each port has a shutoff valve that can be closed simultaneously while air is being blown.
I have an old in ground pool with two main drains and two skimmers. The problem is that the shallow end drain is connected to the shallow end skimmer and the deep end drain is connected to the deep end skimmer. Those connections are under ground (The skimmers do not have two holes like the second config in your video). What is the best way to clear that type line?
We saw a pool tech put a blow-off expansion tube in the skimmer, blow air in the top, quickly pour in antifreeze, blow more air in, and then quickly put the expansion tub cap back on. Is that the only way?
I am a new pool owner and will be doing this myself. After air locking the main drain do you just hope you don’t have a leaking valve? If so I would imagine you are in serious trouble.
I just discovered that I have this problem. I tried replacing the part and I can still hear air escaping!
@@jonathanhazlett8880 If you hear air escaping around the main drain valve then it’s not holding tight, but a new one should. I airlock mine and also use a plug in my pump housing for backup.
@@cwsosby may I ask what kind of diverter you have? Mine is Pentair, which I think is part of the problem. I've seen reviews regarding air leaks as well.
@@jonathanhazlett8880 it’s all Pentair. I can send you a few pics of my set up back here @ the valve and pump if you think it would help. It definitely makes me nervous relying on that airlock though. I live in Iowa, so it gets cold.
@@cwsosby thank you. I'm even trying to figure out a temporary fix, but to no avail. Not sure how to share photos without revealing an email address to everyone on YT.
Your video is a huge help, thanks so much.
Glad it helped!
Many many thanks!
New to pools, I am currently have an issues with the pool main drain. Water was completely removed from the in ground pool that has not been used in over 5 years and the main drain continues to fill with water after 5 or more days using a pump that removes water. Could this be a cracked pvc, water continues to come but appears clear. My question is, is it safe to add new water to feel the pool because of the chlorine or should I have clear water tested. Crazy question but this is my option from the current landlord of the house.
There's something called the "clean out plug" in the main drain used to prevent a pool shell from "popping." Do you know when a toaster is done, and the bread pops up halfway? That's what a pool popping looks like. If the plug is in there, but you still see water enter the pool, get a plumber to come out and find the suspected leak.
Check that your main drain has this clean-out plug. We show you how to access it and what it does in the following link: ua-cam.com/video/F9SlkL_AiHY/v-deo.html
Thanks guys my main drain line runs into skimmer I have lowered water below skimmer and jets however water keeps coming up through main drain line into skimmer I have tried blowing it out and also sucking water out but keeps coming up through main drain into skimmer I’m afraid with water coming all the way up to skimmer it’s going to freeze and crack.
Hey guys, I’m closing my above ground pool and I already put the plug in the center drain inside the pool and closed the valve at the filter the other day. I will now put on the thru wall skimmer plate and close that valve at the filter, plug the main return and the 2nd return with thru wall light fixture. Once that’s done and I disconnect the pump and DE Filter canister do I have to do anything else with the lines to the pool? I have been hearing that it’s important to blow out the lines but I don’t think I can anymore since I put the plugs in at the pool side interface. Is that correct? Or should I pour antifreeze in the ends of lines outside the pool? Would appreciate any help ASAP. Thanks!
what if you close the main drain valve but hear water slowly running into the line somewhere. What if you replace the parts of the Jandy valve but still hear it...?
Is this a two-way or a three-way valve? if it is a two-way valve, something is still not installed correctly. In a two-way valve, there's only one inlet and one outlet. If there's water getting through, there is a bad gasket, or a diverter isn't aligned properly.
If this is a three-way valve, it could still be an installation issue, but you could be confused by the second inlet noise for sounds coming from the main drain pipe.
@@Inyopools Thanks for the response. It's a two way. Maybe something wrong with the valve body, since I replaced all the gaskets and handle assembly? Not sure what else it could be. Now the fun part --- how do you cut out and replace the main drain valve once a pool has been winterized? Sawzall it off and just be quick about gluing the new one on while water gushes around? ...... ideas?
I do the same thing, but I think the Pentair diverter is garbage since air still leaks from the main drain pipe when it's closed (I just tried replacing the part the seals off the pipe with a new part). Frustrating... not sure what to do besides having a different brand of diverter installed, or by having an in-line valve installed for the main drain line.
What if you have lower returns or an all tile pool?
Don't I need to get antifreeze into main drain as well? I have 1st type in video.
you don't need to pour any antifreeze into drain pipe. After blow out air, there is air-lock in drain line and it's good enough in winter
I have 2 holes but one is plugged already and the other is the one(open) that sucks the water to the filter. do I leave the plugged one alone?
Yes, you would leave the plugged line alone.
Hello, thank you for the video, very helpful 🙂
I have the same situation, my skimmer has 2 ports, and the one that connects the main drain to the skimmer is sealed. Why wouldn't I try to open it and add the foam? I worry that over the winter the water level will rise as the snow accumulates
What size diameter foam rope should I use?
We'd recommend 5/8" diameter.
@@Inyopools would 1 inch work as well?
It might not be as flexible, but it would probably work too.
If my main drain is plumbed directly to pool pump, how do I add some marine antifreeze without losing airlock?
you dont/cant add antifreeze to the main drain line.
So you don't use any rv antifreeze for the main drain. It's piped by itself, and not on the skimmer
Yes, you could add pool-friendly antifreeze to a main drain line if you have a point of access like a diverter or check valve to be able to pour it directly into the line.
This didn't actually say how to or if the water needs to removed in the 2nd example. Do we blow into that hole until air bubbles? Or, just insert foaming with the water in it?
No, you do not need to blow out that equalizer line. At the 1:40 mark, we mention lowering the water below the skimmer. After that, you can insert the foam into the line.
@@Inyopools what if you have this and a fiberglass pool? Is it ok to lower it that much? I believe the previous owners did but I guess it just makes me nervous
Tried blowing out my main drain but there werent any bubbles.. Is that normal? Could there be a checkvalve preventing the blow out?
Did you ever figure out this issue because mine is the same way
@@1973mushroom if you dont get bubbles, then you didn't blow it out.
Always informative well done vids. Thanks for posting them!
First off, thank you for the video - this is the best, clearest, and most concise description of how to do this for the various plumbing configurations.
Regarding the foam rope, I can only get about 8” of the rope into my equalizer line before it just gets stuck (assume I’m hitting a bend in the pipe?). I am using 3/4” foam - is there a technique I should be using for this? Otherwise, I have no idea how else to winterize this line. Thanks!
Guide a fish tape through the pipe, tie the foam rope to the end, then pull out the fish tape through the same end you inserted it. This method is also used to pull pool light cable through the niche conduit.