Spiral Cutter Head Install on Grizzly 15" Planer
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- Putting a Shelix brand cutter head on my 15" Grizzly Planer. Not too hard, but takes patience and a few not too common tools (pulley and bearing pullers). The end results are much improved over standard knives.
Since I can only imagine a person watching this that is doing the project, I have tried to include all the steps I took. Good luck.
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This is a high quality video that is very useful. Thank you very much for posting. I put a Shelix head in my G0453 several years ago (before your video was there to help) and it was a spectacular improvement. Not just improved cutting quality, but the noise reduction was extreme. But recently one of the smaller bearings in my gearbox died, so I'm using your video to refresh my memory of how I disassembled/reassembled everything to replace the bearing.
Grizzly should pay you for this video. It covers not onlyt a cutter head swap, but also maintenance and how the machine works.
I liked how you called everything by its proper name... honestly its makes the mechanical process much easier to digest and gives me more confidence to change out my cutter head. Thanks from Salt Lake City!
I just made the identical upgrade to my G0453 15" planer. The video was very helpful. Thank you! I do want to share that I was able to resolve the issue with the oil flange on the gear box by changing the sequence slightly. The trick is to NOT remove the flange until AFTER the head is separated from the bearing in the gear box. At 8:54 you drove the old head AND bearing out of the gear box. Instead, leave the solid metal flange in place and drive the cutter head out of the old bearing.
I don't have a picture but removing the cutter head from the box was pretty simple. NOTE: REMOVE THE SPIRAL DRIVE GEAR AND FULLY REINSTALL THE BOLT ONLY before proceeding. I cut 2 equal lengths of 2x4 about 1" longer than the head as measured from the box. I then strapped the 2x4s on each side of the head so it could stand upright supported only by the box with the bottom of the head about an inch off the floor. This method provides support on opposite sides of the box instead of using the bench method at 8:54. Place a piece of hardwood or similar material on the bolt head (spiral gear removed) and hammer away until the old head drops out. You should NOT be hitting the bearing. That will stay in the box. I would advise having another person holding onto the old head when it drops out to avoid damage or injury.
With the gear box separated from the old head you can easily remove the flange, drive out the old bearing, install a new bearing, oil seal, and reinstall the flange. The gear box with the new bearing is then driven onto the new cutter head. Always lubricate the shaft before installing new bearings. A bearing race and seal driver set makes this a simple process but if you use sockets be sure to only contact the INNER race when driving a bearing onto a shaft. I stood my new cutter head on end on a piece of plywood to protect it and sat the box on top of the shaft to drive the bearing onto it.
A lot of words but really quite simple. Hope this helps. Sorry no pics.
Thanks for adding this. Folks looking for instructions will hopefully find your input and get it right the first time.
Best video on this yet! Just got my cutter heads for the planer and 6" jointer. Will tackle my workhorse first. Once small thing, just want to mention that this video also applies to your Canadian brothers who prolly got a General International, model# 30-125cem!! Keep going strong!! Many thanks!!
Thanks much Mr James Irvin for your very well done Video. I was stuck halfway through until I watched yours. Can't wait to get my 15" Griz up and running with my new Shelix!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I bought a helical head that came with no directions and followed this video step-by-step. I have a similar but older four post 15 inch planer. Again, I appreciate your effort as this help me immensely
Great video! I'm just doing this now on a G1021, and a handy way to remove the bolts holding the chain cogs in place is to hit them with an impact driver. I tried with a wrench first but they were spinning, then a friend suggested using the impact driver. Worked like a charm first time! Thanks for the video
Excellent video....thanks!
I just did this upgrade on my Grizzly planer. It all went as you showed except for one part. My planer had a spiral head which was a disappointment from day one. I suffered with it for 13 years and bought the Luxcut head which is very similar to the Shelix except it came with bearings and 10 extra knives. My spiral head did not allow for the removal of those 3 small screws holding the flange and oil seal onto the gear box. I saw no evidence of them until it was too late. I had the gearbox and head on the bench the way you did. My friend and I worked together with blocks of wood and whatever we could come up with to drive the bearing out of the gearbox but it barely moved. A hairline crack started on the top of the gearbox. We changed the way we were putting pressure on the gearbox and finally got it out. It still had the 3 screws, but as far as we could tell, there would be no way to remove them prior to driving out the bearing. So the threads were somewhat stripped and now that flange is just loose on there as I suspect yours is as well. In the end, it all went together very easily and the planer works much better than it ever did. The crack was a major concern but we thought since the gearbox is held in from both sides by bolts and also the headstock of the machine, there was no way it could get any worse. And oil will not leak out since its at the top. Thanks for your helpful video!
An excellent thing to add. I could not imagine how the screws could be removed. It was a task not nearly as easy as the jointer, but one that was frustrating at a few points. I am glad yours is back together and working. I do think it will continue to work fine as the tolerances of the gear box appear to be pretty wide.
@@Blueridgedog It bothers me that that flange is just floating on the shaft. I don't know what good the seal is if its not attached to the gearbox. I'm thinking I will take it apart again and screw the flange back on with the two screws that survived and insert the shaft into the gearbox and then tap on the bearing from inside the gearbox. I don't know why we didn't think of that during the process. But, as always, it goes faster the second time! How long ago did you do yours? Has the loose seal given you any cause for concern?
@@danfranklin1957 I am guessing I have six months on mine and lots of lumber, but I don't recall the screws you mentioned, but I also think the oil level is lower than the seal (if we are talking about the same thing) and oil only gets up there due to splashing etc.
Wow!! Thanks for the clear and complete instruction!
conradulations, good deal!
The result shows it was all worthwhile. Good job.
This is the best video on upgrading to shelix that I’ve seen. What size gear puller did you use? I tried a 6” but that’s too big
I think it was an older 4" that was knocking around in my toolbox for 40 years!
@@Blueridgedog I bought a 100mm gear puller on your suggestion and it worked. I’m following your video and I’m making good progress. Thank you James.
I had a problem when I was trying to remove the cutterhead - I used a block of wood and mallet to try to force it out, but I ended up damaging the 14T gear and having to get a replacement (which was back ordered for a month). I would remove the existing bolt and replace it with a longer sacrificial bolt first. Besides that, I referenced this video more than the instructions - very well done. If you happen to be paying attention to comments, did your planer have two wavy washers? I don't see them in any diagrams and I can't remember where the things are supposed to go!
I am sorry yours was seated so tight that you ended up damaging the gear. You mentioned instructions...ha. I did not get any, so I more or less had to figure it out, but it is a pretty basic machine. That was the primary reason for making the video as I felt that the process was not really documented. As to the washers...odd. I did not have wavy washers, but I can see where they would help. Perhaps they were a later addition.
Awesome Video! It's been really helpful. I'm in the middle of my replacement but it looks like I'm stuck. The cutterhead and bearing will not come out of the gearbox casting no matter how hard I pound on it. Hasn't moved even a tiny bit. Don't suppose there's a trick to it or some tool that will force it out?
So you have the cutter head and gearbox casting on the bench or similar, but you can't separate the two of them? Perhaps some light heat on the casting?
@@Blueridgedog Wow, thanks for the reply! Yep, it's on the bench and I'm at the step where I separate the old cutter head from the gearbox casting. That cutter head is in unbelievably tight. I could try heating and see if that helps. I was also considering rigging up my gear puller to push it out. I have the G0453W version and it's been discontinued so if I wreck the bearing I'm going to have a time getting a replacement. Kinda figures, eh?
Would I be able to install this spiral cutter head on my Grizzly G0477? It's 15inch planer/moulder
And I would have help from my canine companion
Excellent video.
Did you move the gearbox into neutral before you tried to take the gearbox apart or were you able to somehow get it into neutral without the machine running? I’ve hit the problem that it’s in gear and so it hasn’t put the gear in the center of the gearbox so that I can rotate it and remove it from the housing.
It was some time ago, but I seem to recall the issue you describe. I had to fiddle with the gear a great deal to get it off, in the end, I could put it into neutral and get it off. My advice is to be persistent....it is not a complex system and you can be a bit more aggressive than you likely think.
Great step by step video, James. Have you had any issue with the grease shield not being secured to the gear box? (11:07 of video)
None really. I think the part predates the use of sealed bearings. I have put a lot of wood through it since the swap.
@@Blueridgedog Thank you!
Hello James, you did a UA-cam video on changing out the standard cutter head to a shelix head on your Grizzly thicknesser. Can you please provide the model number for the machine, greatly appreciated
Cheers Mark
Mine is a G0453
what is the model number of the planer that you changed
G0453 is the model in this video.
You say the recent ones have metric fasteners - mine is from 1989 and is all metric, so that's not a terrifically recent development.
Only thing I'd change is your title. Great video other than that.
This is a true helical head. Not a spiral.
Cutters on helical cutter heads are arranged at a slight angle to the axis, whereas cutters on spiral cutterheads are at a 90-degree angle to the workpiece.
That seems really quiet