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Effortless Business Card Creation with the xTool F1 and Slider: Rapid and Hassle-Free Production
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2024
- In this video I will show how I changed my workflow for engraving my own metal business cards. Rather than working with a slow CO2 laser I switched to the xTool F1 laser with the slider attachment and boosted my output by a factor of 5.
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Nice jig great cards .. thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your videos, I always enjoy them. I SO want to get one of these.
Glad you like them!
I am proud ❤ to say that I finished the business card jig today!!
Woo Hoo! Now you’re and expert 😉
I'm looking at how to use the clamps for the slide extension today.@@SteveMakesEverything
What a great tool.
It has definitely saved me a lot of time
@@budgetmerch Note that you can buy an IR module for the D1 Pro as well. The slider can't be used, but you can create a jig to hold a dozen business cards for engraving.
I believe, if you do the framing and rotate the knob on the side on the F1, it slides and shows each framing as it moves. I could be wrong but after reviewing lots of videos before mine, I thought I saw someone do this....
Moving the knob during adjustment does move the slider, but not between each item on the workspace. It's just a way to do fine adjustment.
@@SteveMakesEverything oh! Thanks for clarifying, it just looked that way, I guess
if you had made both boards the correct size first, then cut the jig on the F1 you would not have had to rely on inexact measurements using a ruler. After cutting assign the jig graphic to a layer that is set to not output. Then use that layer to align your artwork and as a template for all furure card production.
Lol both boards were the correct size, and as far as cutting on the F1, that’s not something I would ever use this laser for, since the beam can reach significant angles. Regardless you will still end up measuring because the slide zeroing is fairly inaccurate.
The jig was created in Lightburn, where you can measure everything, so the only thing I really needed to measure was the location of the first slot.
Hi Steve, what if the square, or handlebars, around the image I want to place on my card are larger than the image itself. The background is clear.
Not sure I understand the question, but I'm assuming the image had empty space around it. You can either edit out the space before using the image or expand image and let the anchors flow outside the card. Anything outside the dimensions of the canvas will be ignored
I restarted it. It is fine now.
Excellent!
Hello, I was wondering if there was a way to purchase the jigs that are needed to do various projects like the business cards, stone slabs, coasters and such. Enjoyed your video just got our F1 this week and it is something to get used to. 😅
If you want me to build them shoot me an email or go to my web site and send a message. I can create them if you want but it's probably cheaper for you if I post a design on Etsy or my site and you someone local to you create the jigs. Or if you have a larger diode laser you can do it yourself.
@@SteveMakesEverything Thank you for your timely response as time is something that you can't get back. I will take your advice and look to see what is available on as well as look to see what is local in my area. Looking forward to this new journey for customizing.
New to light burn do you offer the file also
It’s available to channel members, but you don’t really need this. The design is very simple and you can build it right in Lightburn like I did. Create a rectangle the size of your business cards, then clone it 6 times and equally space those across the workspace, then add some circles for thumb access, and finally add an outline rectangle that will fit on the slider.
Great video. Wanting to insure that my engraving on business cards and slate turns out "white" not shades of gray. Looks like the F1 does it on metal. Any testing on slate? Looking at Commarker B$ 20 w
The creates white-ish engraving on metal cards. With slate you can even do a bit of color with a bit of practice. The ComMarker B4 is a nice laser for the money and if you plan to do a lot of metal engraving, I would favour it over the F1, but the F1 does have a Blue laser too, so it can cut/engrave wood as well.
Thanks for the response. I'm leaning to the B4
I just got my F1. I really need to get these business cards done. I am so glad for this video. I have the D1 also and plan to make the jig as you've shown. Before getting started with the jig, I thought I'd set up the laser extension and try just one card. Not sure what happened, but I waited for 15 minutes and when the laser stopped, there was nothing on the card. I know I have a huge learning curve here, but what do you suppose I did wrong? Thanks, Marie
15 minutes?? Engraving a business card on the F1 should take about a minute or less. Not sure what happened, but if I was guessing I’d say the speed was set too low, and if the card was still blank the power must also have been low.
Start with XCS rathe than Lightburn if you aren’t already, and make sure you are engraving with the IR laser rather than the blue laser
Learning curve is what makes this fun. Just don’t pull you hair out because there is help around you. 😉
@@SteveMakesEverything thank you for the quick reply! Due to the cold in the shop, I decided to call it a night and will try your suggestion tomorrow. Thank appreciate your vids!
Hello, nice video! I have questions about the slide extension: Do I have to carry out the calibration every time the extension is installed and I use the F1 without it?
and my 2nd question! If there are, for example, 4 coasters in the xcs, do I have to align them exactly and then measure exactly this distance on the extension and then align them? Sorry, I'm a beginner with the F1.
best regards from Dortmund/Germany
There really isn't much calibration to do with the slider since it has a reproducible mounting on the laser and has its own limit switches to detect where the ends are.
You will however need an accurate jig if you are creating multiple items at the same time. This is pretty easy to do though.
Thank you very much for the answer
What would cause the D1 not to frame when I hit frame?
Look for a safety interlock like a limit switch issue. Also look at the console in Lightburn for any warnings or errors.
How do I make text go to the next line in XCS?
Hmm. You can't just hit the Enter key to go to the next line? I might have to fire up XCS to try this because I don't recall ever having to do multi-lines.
I just got the F1 and I have a customer looking for some of those type of business cards. What is the normal selling price on those finished cards? New at this so I have no idea what to charge him. Thanks for the great videos!
This would depend what you’re putting on them due to additional time required. The cards can be expensive. For the video I used the 0.2mm cards xTool sent me, but for a customer you might want 0.8mm cards because they are so much more professional feeling. They obviously cost more.
I mostly make these for myself, when I do talk to customers about them, I pitch them as the most expensive business cards you can have.
Thank you for the informative reply, but that still doesn't tell me how much you sold them for. Have a great day!
@@RBourn9 😀 Keep in mind that I wouldn't normally sell these to a customer so I wouldn't necessarily hint for the best price on cards. They would certainly end up being >$1/card and this is why I will typically only make these for myself.
Isn’t it faster to do 2 cards at a time, without the extension?
It probably takes about the same time to engrave, though you'll be changing cards every couple of minutes, so it will be a full-time job when you're engraving. If you just do a few cards at a time, then it's probably fine to do a couple at a time
Is there any way to close the right sidebar panel? I am trying to place an image on the right and when I click on the image, the settings pop up and block my view from placing the image where I want it on the business card. I noticed in your video, your side bar on the right with the image settings is not showing, only the part that shows laser extension and material settings.
I think it appears when it think it needs to. You can zoom out to avoid the conflict or pan the workspace to the left to move the image.
Thank you for the video. I just received my F1 and found your video, I noted that your power options are different than mine inside of X tool creative space. And your cards print WAYYYYYYYYYYY faster than mine do. You have "Power" and "speed". I have "dot duration, Power %, DPI". I was hoping to copy your setting, but my options aren't even the same. thoughts? I selected everything else I could think of the same "manual setting, IR, user defined material.
I wonder if they changed the setting structure for the F1 to make it look more like a fiber laser. I’ll have to update XCS and put the F1 on the bench when I get a chance
@@SteveMakesEverything I did another project today and I noticed that the images I imported (one of which was a QR code) Have different settings than your video, but in the same project, I created some text inside xtool creative space, and the settings for that text were the same as your video showed for the QR codes you were burning in the business cards. Not sure what that means, but its a data point.
@@user-rx5bj2hm3e So did the test you added, engrave as quickly as mine?
@@SteveMakesEverything The text I added (using the same setting UI your video had) engraved very quickly. The two images I loaded (one a QR code and one a logo) that use a different set of setting, engrave very slowly.
I was unable to figure out how to "switch" the settings options for any image I load into creative space though.
@@user-rx5bj2hm3e OK so I'm making an assumption that you just can't change the image settings, so if my response seems basic, then let me know.
To change image settings you first need to select the image on your workspace. This will show you the current settings on the right. You will see the image type where you can select the type that matched you image the closest.
To the right of that you should see the object settings where you can change the power and speed. You'll also see image mode here and for a QR code you want Grayscale.
Finally will see the Lines per cm (or inch). You can play with the line density but more lines equals slower engraves so use the minimum you need to get a clean image.
I hope this is what you are asking for and that I'm not insulting your current level of knowledge.
What do your members receive for joining?
Mostly just free designs and gratitude for keeping the channel running. Maybe i need to create a higher tier for consulting sessions or just make time available for this if people need one-on-one help.
Steve, how long did each of your cards take. It took 8 minutes for just 1 of mine. How do I speed up the process?
These should take less than a minute if you are using the IR laser. Of course if you are engrave something intricate it will take longer.
How do I choose the IR laser?@@SteveMakesEverything
@@AcryliWoodDesigns In XCS select the thing you want to engrave and then you should see an option on the right (for engraving) to select the blue laser of the IR laser.
Steve, can those cards be engraved on your CO2 laser?
Yes. I was doing them on my CO2 previously, but it does take more time
I really appropriate everything you do and post, and excuse me for saying, but I feel like this video is actually an ad for the sliding attachment. Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't it be faster and easier to cut out a positioning stencil/jig out of cardboard or thin plywood and place the cards in the stencil and engrave them all at once. You could probably do all 60 of them simultaneously.
@@mkkd85Well there are lots of ways to do this, but the point here is that if you have something like an F1 (which is great for engraving cards, but has a small footprint), then the slide is the only way to do this in volume. I wish I had one of these on my fiber laser - it would make customer volume work much easier.
Why is the F1 so expensive?
I have the D1 Pro 20W and it was half this price. I could buy a 40w eBay laser too and spend less than the $2k this thing runs.
I don’t set pricing for xTool, but I think it could be a bit cheaper too 😏. The F1 is actually a fairly complex bit of machinery and is both a diode laser and an IR laser so I assume they are charging a premium for that.