Have about a dozen videos available from connecting, wiring, the hookup of the zone controller, etc. Did to help educate some, and for those not comfortable doing, at least learning some basics so they dont get taken for a ride getting one installed.
Glad it helped. I thought it was good to show how the pump relay can just enable power to a normal outlet via "switched" so I did not have to hardwire the pump. Standard outlet, easy replace for me.
I appreciate the feedback and glad you enjoyed the detail I was able to provide. Any questions from any of the 12 videos I have on this, please let me know. Others have which is where a few extra came into play.
Glad you enjoyed it. So many times I have had to go through many, many places and many skim-over. I wanted it to be as clear as possible to those do-it-yourself people, like I to know they COULD do it. I tried to get all the pieces beginning to end in my situation and hope the set of 12 videos helps you in your project.
That is the whole purpose of the pump start relay and the zone timer control. If you watch the entire #4 video, ua-cam.com/video/0eEDXdO1fo4/v-deo.html I show how it all works. When you set the zone to run for example 20 minutes, ex: run from 7am - 7:20 (the Rain Bird controller is programmable by 10 minute intervals). The controller sends a "turn the pump on" signal to the pump relay which turns on the pump and starts going. About 1-2 seconds after the pump is on, the zone solenoid is opened to let the water flow its route. Then, the zone closes at 7:20, then the pump relay shuts off and the pump turns off. If you take a look at the #4b video at ua-cam.com/video/CcHFaiujry4/v-deo.html I show by a wiring diagram and lay out how the wiring works with respect to the power source and hooking up to the pump relay which connects to the actual pump. Please let me know if those videos help. Q: Do you already have an electrical outlet out near where your water source is? I can possibly create an image to show how I tackled that in video #9 ua-cam.com/video/dTlFf9_uH0o/v-deo.html Dont worry if you still have questions, I'll keep replying as best I can to help you.
My specific pump is from Harbor Freight -- Drummond 1hp. As for the run, I have the water filter portion reduce down to 1" right away. This way, the entire run of water coming into the pump and pushed out to the different zone valves are all 1". It is only at the points where I install either the rotor or sprinkler head that I use a "T" with applicable 1/2" or 3/4" threaded to accept the swing arm as I covered building out in the video ua-cam.com/video/eFkOoUoLeqI/v-deo.html So, all my pipe from the lake to the pump to the zone manifolds and out to the final output are all 1" pipe. Its only at the very end before the actual sprinkler as just described above that it is reduced down. This way, it maintains the most throughput of water flow as close to the endpoint as possible. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Does the order of wires matter in reference to L1/L2. I know the corresponding in has to match out but does it matter the orientation. Example L1 in (black) - L1 out (black) or does the L1 in need to be connected to white and L2 out white. Just looking to verify if the relay has a certain side that looks for line/load etc. Not sure if it matters that my pump is 220 v. My last controller had a 14/3 wire with both the hot wires connected. (Black and red)
For the relay, just keep them in sync. You have L1in, L2in L1Out, L2Out. As long as both "L1" are same and "L2" are same you should be find. Black on L1 in, Black on L1 out. White on L2 in, White on L2 out. With respect with the blue wires which are the low-voltage feed from the actual Rain Bird controller unit, those dont matter which, but you do want for consistency to have it as black and white low-voltage wire to the relay wires. Anything else? As for your pump being a 220v, I can not advise/confirm. It was my understanding that the relay unit did support 220v, but since my pump is only 120, I did not have to worry. 220v is above my electrical experience, yet I have wired a whole house up to the panel, and an electrician finalized that. Outlets, lighting, 3-way, 4-way, switched lights, but not 220 :)
@@drapp5752 Thanks for your reply. I was thinking I had it correct. I turned the breaker on and ran the system to try it out and all looks good. Thanks again!
bro i’m glad i stumbled upon you ❤
Have about a dozen videos available from connecting, wiring, the hookup of the zone controller, etc. Did to help educate some, and for those not comfortable doing, at least learning some basics so they dont get taken for a ride getting one installed.
You nailed it! thanks for sharing your setup
Glad it helped. I thought it was good to show how the pump relay can just enable power to a normal outlet via "switched" so I did not have to hardwire the pump. Standard outlet, easy replace for me.
Great video!
Glad you liked and hope it helps you.
Excellent video.
I appreciate the feedback and glad you enjoyed the detail I was able to provide. Any questions from any of the 12 videos I have on this, please let me know. Others have which is where a few extra came into play.
Thank you very much for detail explanation. Very helpful to understand the irrigation system especially how connection to the pump power relay.
Glad you enjoyed it. So many times I have had to go through many, many places and many skim-over. I wanted it to be as clear as possible to those do-it-yourself people, like I to know they COULD do it. I tried to get all the pieces beginning to end in my situation and hope the set of 12 videos helps you in your project.
Muchas gracias por tu ayuda, tenia muchas dudas respecto al relay, ya tengo claro como lo tengo que conectar.
Glad it helped and allows you to move forward.
Great job documenting. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. Feel free to ask questions on any of the 12 videos I have... even if just for clarification.
It looks great; I believe I have the same pump and instead of a lake I have rain barrels :P, quick question, Do you keep the switch of the pump on?
That is the whole purpose of the pump start relay and the zone timer control. If you watch the entire #4 video, ua-cam.com/video/0eEDXdO1fo4/v-deo.html I show how it all works. When you set the zone to run for example 20 minutes, ex: run from 7am - 7:20 (the Rain Bird controller is programmable by 10 minute intervals). The controller sends a "turn the pump on" signal to the pump relay which turns on the pump and starts going. About 1-2 seconds after the pump is on, the zone solenoid is opened to let the water flow its route. Then, the zone closes at 7:20, then the pump relay shuts off and the pump turns off. If you take a look at the #4b video at ua-cam.com/video/CcHFaiujry4/v-deo.html I show by a wiring diagram and lay out how the wiring works with respect to the power source and hooking up to the pump relay which connects to the actual pump. Please let me know if those videos help. Q: Do you already have an electrical outlet out near where your water source is? I can possibly create an image to show how I tackled that in video #9 ua-cam.com/video/dTlFf9_uH0o/v-deo.html Dont worry if you still have questions, I'll keep replying as best I can to help you.
What size is your pump (hp, intake and outtake)? Did you reduce your supply line to the zone manifold or reduce after the manifold to the sprinkler?
My specific pump is from Harbor Freight -- Drummond 1hp. As for the run, I have the water filter portion reduce down to 1" right away. This way, the entire run of water coming into the pump and pushed out to the different zone valves are all 1". It is only at the points where I install either the rotor or sprinkler head that I use a "T" with applicable 1/2" or 3/4" threaded to accept the swing arm as I covered building out in the video
ua-cam.com/video/eFkOoUoLeqI/v-deo.html
So, all my pipe from the lake to the pump to the zone manifolds and out to the final output are all 1" pipe. Its only at the very end before the actual sprinkler as just described above that it is reduced down. This way, it maintains the most throughput of water flow as close to the endpoint as possible.
Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Does the order of wires matter in reference to L1/L2. I know the corresponding in has to match out but does it matter the orientation. Example L1 in (black) - L1 out (black) or does the L1 in need to be connected to white and L2 out white. Just looking to verify if the relay has a certain side that looks for line/load etc. Not sure if it matters that my pump is 220 v. My last controller had a 14/3 wire with both the hot wires connected. (Black and red)
For the relay, just keep them in sync. You have L1in, L2in L1Out, L2Out. As long as both "L1" are same and "L2" are same you should be find. Black on L1 in, Black on L1 out. White on L2 in, White on L2 out.
With respect with the blue wires which are the low-voltage feed from the actual Rain Bird controller unit, those dont matter which, but you do want for consistency to have it as black and white low-voltage wire to the relay wires. Anything else? As for your pump being a 220v, I can not advise/confirm. It was my understanding that the relay unit did support 220v, but since my pump is only 120, I did not have to worry. 220v is above my electrical experience, yet I have wired a whole house up to the panel, and an electrician finalized that. Outlets, lighting, 3-way, 4-way, switched lights, but not 220 :)
@@drapp5752 Thanks for your reply. I was thinking I had it correct. I turned the breaker on and ran the system to try it out and all looks good. Thanks again!