Recasting Non Warhammer 40k figures
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- Опубліковано 13 сер 2020
- How to make the rubber mold in two parts and how to cast the miniature duplicate. A two part mold is the kind of rubber mold you make for complex miniatures, Tabletop Figures, D&D, Warhammer 40k etc..
*Disclaimer - No Warhammer 40k figures were used in this video.
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I had some air drying clay (it wasn't great for sculpting minis, but fairly cheap) and I used that instead of plasticine. it worked pretty well imo, because it takes 3 days to dry out fully it was still soft enough to remove easily but didn't stick too much to either my model or the silicone.
'Not 40K miniatures' *wink* Glad to see you're following people's advice mate.
Yup I had to conform eventually lol =)
Great video again, but I feel like the only models that need re casted are GW models.... Everyone else disserves to be paid for. Just my opinion. 😁✌️
@@FiveFourOne87l1 Yes, unless you are into making custom models and want to make multiples of the same custom.
Lol
@@MiniatureHobbyist thanks for this
Excellent ... I am off now to recast some ... erhhhh .... "non warhammer" miniatures... yes, that's it. *chuckels*
Is it a limited edition "BattleMallet 68K" figurines?
Lizard men? No no no officer these are reptile people.
@@stubbyfoamz1 what lizard men? those are saurian men....
Great method, gonna use them on a few..... Battleaxe 40 million minis.
As for all the tiny bubbles in the recast: I think that would actually be a good place to use some of that weird, liquid greenstuff. Seems to be perfect for filling holes...
Rofl
Battle axe 40 million, sounds like something dad would call it aha
Great video!
A quick tip. Apply a layer of silicone with a cheap brush before pouring it. That reduces the chance of getting bubbles immensely.
The next step for better recasts is a vacuum chamber.
I casted myself some not Warhammer Miniatures and I really have to advice anyone who wants to cast some minis to youse a proper release agend, because it will make the molding process easier and it helps to preserve the mold. Over time the mold will get demaged, without a releaseagent. Usually The best agent to buy you'll find in the use advice, when you buy the silicone. Another advice I can give is to buy a self venting silicone. It is more expensive, but you won't have to deal with nasty air bubbles :). Sry for my English... I'm from Germany
Great way to cast your own out of production models that won’t be resold for many more years to come.
I just bought some of that mold making rubber and resin this weekend, I’m definitely not gonna use it to cast any GW bits... No sir.
Using the lego so it's basically quick release is an absolute stroke of genius always wanted to try something like this and you've made it look so easy and doable, and you're spot on finished in gold makes it look quite classy... Great video glad I subbed.
some vaseline would help a lot to clean the silicone. just brush everything very thin with vaseline before using silicone.
Great video. Neat mini, reminds me of the great days of simple, fun miniatures from the late 80's/ early 90's.
Also great idea taking off the shield. Now you can have him resting his hand on other stuff. Rocks, walls, pile of skulls (he does look rather barbarianish).
Cheers!
Thank you, I love Knights/Gladiators and the bigger the weapon the better lol, yup that shield would of been tricky =)
I would like to see a video about casting metal miniatures:)
I have just brought some pewter as this is something I have always wanted to do, hopefully will be able to do the video in a week or so =)
Procedure is much the same. Needs a heat resistant silicone rubber, and you can get Room Temperature Vulcanising (RTV) heat resistant silicones for that purpose. You can even gravity-cast (as opposed to centripetal - spin - casting) them.
But yes, Molten white-metal-alloys (WMA - "pewter" is one kind of WMA. I use a tin, antimony and bismuth alloy) are HOT. WEAR protective gear. ALL of it.
Heat resistant gloves (big ones). Face shield (the molten alloy may spatter, you don't want it hitting your face))
Filter mask (not just because of lead - some WMAs contain it - but bismuth is also not good to breathe),
@@chromedog68 i thought lead couldn't be used to make pewter anymore
@@mistery8363 unless your buying all your pewter from a single specific source, and can verify when and how it was made, ALWAYS tread on the side of caution and assume there’s lead in your pewter. Most people buying it for recasting purposes like this will just buy scrap pewter, and older prices to melt down, and thus, higher chance of encountering lead.
@@Superintendent_Chalmers thanks dude!
Use a spray on mold release, you won't regret it. Also I learned a good method for bringing bubbles up to the surface from a guy I worked with a privateer press. Vibrate the table it's on. You can do this with a variety of things from a massager to a table fan with a fin broken off and some clamps. He used a knock off version of one of those hitachi "back massagers." An hour of vibration works out the worst.
Also, if you end up with spots that just won't fill for whatever reason, you can cut little elongated triangles into the surrounding mold to give the resin somewhere to go further.
that might be the most original way to use a magic wand i ever heard.
You've got me eyeing up my kids lego to use for molds. 😁
I stole so many legos from my kids for molds.
so i watched your videos and i finally tried your method as the first half turned out PERFECT!! I will try the other half of the mold when i get home from work. i cant thank you enough for your videos keep up the good work
your videos made me order minis, casting clay, silicone.. the whole shebang. not because I want to play or sell, but because I want to try this out myself.
the figure at the start looks like he has a gravity hammer from halo :)
He does =)
Yea, that's the Mega Construx Rendering of a Gravity Hammer.
Thats 100% a gravity hammer
Mann 200 is the best spray silicone release I have ever used. Definitely worth looking into, my good sir.
I’ve been molding and casting shit for the last 13 years, but definitely nothing as small and intricate as this, damn good work.
Solid tip, i will remember that
The day the warhammer 40k video went up i downloaded it cause i know better with youtube and copyright system. nice vids im always gaming on a budget with 3 kids so any money i can save is good for me.
UA-cam were fine, I got an email from GW saying I was breaking their copyright laws =(
Do you have a Mega Share folder or something you could share the video on for us less fortunate to snag it
How many times are you able to use these molds?
use a 3d printer an fee stuff from the net insead of stealing
@@MiniatureHobbyist then maybe stop infringing on people's intellectual property through recasting. It's theft
Another video that makes this kind of stuff feel actually doable, great inspiration - cheers!
Another exceptional casting video sir 😊😉. Love the custom miniature and I can't wait to try this method to create my own custom miniatures. 😎👍👌😊
Thank you so much and yes make your own custom figures, its rewarding and fun =)
This is a nice example of why mold release is important....
Dear god. Glad you pointed out this is not 40k related, for a moment there i feared GW might sue you
You never know, i have some 40k 3d printing video on my channel... waiting for the hit squad to come lol
Are they really that bad?
@@michaelkasubaski9426 most definitely. And the fanbase is even worse. I challenge you to find a 40k community that won't ban you for speaking about 3d printing
@@KneeCapHill ..... thats very sad, i only got into the hobthis last year, dropped a comparable smallish fortune to amass what i have, cost saving stuff like this and those would be amazing
I always enjoy your videos. Thanks much.
hey man, look up The Crafsman Steady Crafting for some good mould making techniques to cut down on the clean up time, heaps of good tips.
love your work, as usual :)
Using a vacuum chamber, or pressure chamber would help with bubbles, even a DIY vibration table. Making those would actually potentially be a cool DIY video, just a suggestion. Cool content keep it up and thanks!
This was cool and I want to do it now.
great for making models for things like d&d miniatures thanks for the video
My pleasure =)
very clever trick, love it
Thank you so much =)
@@MiniatureHobbyist your welcome
please use release agent on everything, great video
just use the "blue stuff" to create mold. It separates better and can be melted again many times.
Since the resin hardens for a long time, I recommend pouring it into each half of the mold separately and joining the halves after an hour. This will give you time to remove the bubbles with a toothpick and get the perfect miniature.
The resin _I_ use gets hot while curing, which makes thoese moulds unusable...
@@Gothead420 that's why I use a regular two-part epoxy adhesive.
It practically does not get warm and costs only $ 2 for 200-300ml
@@johndoe5555 what specific two part epoxy adhesive you use?
@@B1-997 Sorry, friend. I don’t remember the exact name and now my city has been destroyed by the Russians and I can’t even look in local stores.
@@johndoe5555 all good and thanks for responding, and i hope you and your family stay safe over there during this difficult time.
Hi love your videos. I have a two part question I have used the resin on your affiliate link and it sets crazy fast I was wondering can you recommend a slower setting one. As I read about using a pressure pot as it will force the air bubbles smaller or even out of the mould totally. Or are pressure pots witchcraft for such small intricate models?
Well played ;)
To get the tiny bubbles out, you have to "degass" after you mix the components. That means you put it in a vacuum chamber until all the bubbles leave.
Well well well old friend here become famous glad I keep up once in a while
Next time when you make a mould tap it from underneath after you pour the rubber. When you see no more bubbles coming to the surface it means the rubber has no more air bubbles. I have tried it myself and it works.
So this is the first of your videos I've seen. To be honest, I was looking for Warhammer 40k content, but your video was concise and enjoyable to watch. 5/10 friend, jolly good work, add a subscription to your list!
Okay so a lifehack....do not use the flat legobase, just make a big flat plasticine and put the frame on top. Use Silicone spray for releasing and better silicone spread, when the first half is done you do not have to diassemble the entire frame just enough to build for the other side. Now spray again silicone spray, then wipe up the part which is on the silicone(or better yet spray the silicone into some small cup and use a brush to spread it on the figure), then spread a little talcum with a brush evenly on the mold itself. Por the other half....the two side will came apart nicely and the mold will be less lkely full of bubbles
I'm gonna use this process for certain gundam model parts and after I get some grey knights and make some mortifactors do the same with them
Using the Legos is a fantastic idea
Even if he kept doing it with 40k minis, he's fine as long as he doesn't try to sell them.
Looks simple and easy! What tape did you use to hold the mold together?
Yop ! Poor the silicone from higher in order to have less bubbles
@3:20 use talcumed powder
Hay i have a suggestion for you try blue stuff you put it in hot water and it becomes soft its a reusable mold makeing material
ive been recasting dozens of space mace 69 models, i have an entire army of Imperial Super Soldiers. big and little brothers.
Nice 👍
Very nice video ! How would you go about making mold for sprues ? Do you feel you could get the same level of detail ? Thanks
Thank you, I think to mould a full sprue you would then need to do some sort of injection moulding to get the resin all the way in =)
Good stuff, keep up the good work. Just found your channel. Definitely subscribing for more content! :)
This is how I got 20+ Canoptek Scarabs per swarm base, looks just soooo much better!
From what I've heard, a good way to get rid of bubbles in a mould is to get a small toothpick and swirl around in the bubble?
Nice
Yes my army will now have an unlimited supply of Beetle magic T-100s.
If you were to do this a lot, consider getting or building a vacuum chamber. It will suck the bubbles right out
Oh and I subscribed.
Thanks, Im going to cast a lot of missing parts for my "not playmobil" sets.
Would a parting compound make separation easier?
Which gold paint did you use? The shine is out of this world!
Did you have a video that got removed which was something about a single part mould for a grot?
Ive hidden the video and will be dong more mold and cast videos but not with GW figures =)
lol don't tell GW 3d printers exist then...
Hmm I use Blue Stuff to make the mould, wonder if epoxy will work with that? Milliput is well tricky.
Would using sprue goo and a syringe be useful in this method?
How good are these in terms of detail?
Cool.
How many uses do you reckon a silicon mould has? If it is a low number, how would you go about duplicating the mould with a more durable material? Maybe material for a vid?
@pel thoron Thanks for the in depth answer. Won't pretend I understood all of it but a fair few casts for normal silicon basically. Theoretically, could you take the first model you cast, set it aside then use it further down the round to make another mould? Like if you borrowed an original from a friend, made a mould, then kept the first cast as a subject for a replacement mould?
The resin cast comes out of the mould easy so doesnt damage it in anyway so I reckon you can make loads of casts, I think time would be the main factor in the mould deteriorating.
@@MiniatureHobbyist I've got some platinum cure silicones that are over 15 years old. 150+pulls from the moulds.
Hi mate! Can I use baking clay (but obviously not baking it) instead of plastersene?
Bit of a dated vid, but I've got some Greatsword Angry Mushroom Men (wink) that have very open posing and lots of sticky-outy bits to them, would this work for that sword of thing or would the detail just wind up getting lost/broken off too easy?
I have a cast-off anime figure with a loose chest plate that I'd like to make back-up duplicates of when it inevitably falls off/breaks. Would your method work for thin pieces of plastic like that?
Dude I f****** love you!!!!!! If u see my one other comment on another of ur vids ignore I've found that you've already answered me.
I didn't know tofu was so useful
Can you use sprues for recasting?
How do you pose the mini if it has its arms in front of the body holding a weapon like pike or a bazooka? Is it possible to make a mould like that?Maybe make two separate moulds? One for the body and the head and one for the arms?
If the figure is more intricate it would be best to make moulds of seperate parts, if its already glued together than you may need to make a 3 or even 4 part mould to accommodate all the sticky out bits =)
I am using that same resin and idk if I undermixed but its been 72 hours and only now is that shit hard.
Quite a few two-part resins (even "fast cure" ones) require at least 48-72 hours AFTER they harden to properly cure.
I use a UV curing "oven" to speed it along (or you could leave them in the sunlight).
lol dude, you ballsed that up
Will you post your videos of your custom figures you made when you started to make custom mcx figures?
Maybe =)
Dude I have some classic rouge trader models imma make an army
sweet
So, the silicone mold didn't pull any of the paint off the original model, or dull the finish? I wonder if a cheaper urethane mold would work as well.
What brand of plastacine do you use in creating the mold?
Is the clear resin less dangerous than the non clear resin in your links? Just got the non clear resin and there are a hell of a lot of warnings (cancer if inhaled stuff)
Do you think this process is doable with clay miniatures?
What is that gold paint? It looks smoother than any metallic paint I've tried.
Would hot glue be cheaper as casting resin than mbfg stuff?
Can you make a video in how you made him
Is it possible to recast star wars black series parts, like guns, heads, accessories, and all that jazz with this sort of method?
Any recommendations for making a mold for a quadruped?
Can baking soda or cornstarch be used as a release agent?
2:40 mmmm I want strawberry ice cream.
Any news on making a hands mold for Mega Construx?
I think they would be too small to get them done well
what would be a good release agent to use for this? tlacum powder?
Ive used talc and its not too bad but I would also like to use the spray release agent to see how well that works =)
@@MiniatureHobbyist Both work well. Talc is also good as a filler with certain resins (so you use less resin. One of my resins is a translucent white when cured. With 10% talc, it goes opaque white. No difference in hardness or casting time. ).
since i could not find silicon rubber just like yours (and i am too impatient to order from amazon) i bought some very similar, and always have problem with seperating the two molds after second part cures, i tried to put a layer of chalk spray and that did not work well, do you have any idea/advice ?
Yea i started to make molds after watching your videos :D You really inspired me to do something - great job!
You'll most definitely need some type of mold release and also to make sure the first part is totally, completely cured before you pour the second part.
You can use a super thin layer of Vaseline (petroleum jelly). Check out The Crafsman - Steady Craftin' for an excellent resource on this stuff.
Edit: gave bad info I can't back up so I removed it
@@CeeJayThe13th So instead of using talcum powder I should use isopropyl alcohol?
@@starksmurf, oops, apparently I don't know what the heck I'm talking about since I can't find the thing where I saw about using isopropyl alcohol. I'm gonna edit my comment.
You can still use petroleum jelly or tons of other stuff. Just Google DIY mold release. But also, baby powder is supposed to work too.
I agree 100% with Cee Jay, use petroleum jelly.
I do molds every so often and have never had a bad release with good ole vaseline.
I've heard alcohol or a mix of alcohol and jelly work, but I haven't given it a go.
@@jonathantillian6528 and then only on the surrounding area, not on the mini itself?
That mini looked rougher than a cats tongue
More mcx Yesss
Like most hobbyists I have a drawer full of empty sprues that I’m keeping in case I could use them one day - anychance you could do a video on melting these down and pouring into moulds to be re-used please? I would prefer to create terrain as opposed to minis (walls, doors, crates etc) I’m asking as I love your work and videos but can’t afford the resin 👍
This is very hard to do, and easy to get wrong, and have ruined plastic
How does RTV Silicone harden ? From the bottom and up or the other way around??
Cant say Ive ever really looked, I generally make the moulds then check after the time stated on each bottle lol =)
Random question. I have a resin 3D printer and I have printed up some bases that I want to make a mild for to re base my army. I flipped a mild from some of my prints. This failed as the silicon is still tacky and lost detail. As if it has not set. Do u have any advice. Iv wasted about half a l of silicon This has happened twice
However from the same poor I used some old resin prints and the all sealed.
It sounds like your silicone was not properly mixed. You have to really mix it and make sure you have equal ratios or it will not properly set.
anything toxic air wise or skin wise? guess its the same resin 3d printers use?
woooooooooooooow!!!!!!!!!!!
So I finally tried this and the Plasticine I used melted what I was trying to mold and also the legos! :) What brand of Plasticine did you use?
Use kids Plasticine. it really shouldn't melt plastic at all definitely not lego. Sounds like you were using something else, god knows what to be able to melt lego. those buggers are indestructible!
Did you use acetone of any kind? Cause that would do it.
Looks like a lot of work
Is the Dipoxy clear resin soft?
When you de-molded the figure and were cutting the excess and mold lines, it looked like it was flexing?
It was soft as I hadnt left it long enough, its a slow curing resin and I was impatient lol
@@MiniatureHobbyist Thanks!
I've used the SG2000 resin from MB Fibreglass and that sets really quickly.
Too quickly in some cases, like when trying to cast small pieces that need to be agitated to let the air out before the resin cures 🤔
@@aljohnston6279 yup I have that one too and only mix it in small amounts, like you say it starts to cure in minutes
Any idea on good products in America?