I can't help but wonder how many Brandon Herrera viewers are binge watching this channel right now. Stoked to find this channel to be honest. Love CNC machining and this channel lets me see how it all actually works. Back to the binge!
@@TITANSofCNC For me the best part was that I was already subscribed to Both channels. Absolutely Amazing to see you guys work on the AK50, and absolutely amazing to see Brandon at the CNC shop in a later video! Fantastic Collab! And thank you for sharing this! I love watching the parts being machined. There is just something so satisfying about it.
@@TITANSofCNC now you'll just need to coach Brandon on how to setup and fixture for production runs of several hundred at a time. Or at least it would be nice as his standard AK stuff is constantly out of stock. Maybe even get him to move into machining all his own ak parts rather than relying on surplus.
For parts from the wire EDM with crazy angles I sometimes use the "scrap" to hold my parts - it already has the profile I need, so I can usually just remove some material off of the top to allow for indicating on the parts and then make a couple of threaded holes in the scrap and clamp my part down without worrying too much about the whole thing sliding around.
It sure looks like it doesn't it? But the possibility does exist that the part is based on the same original bolt design as the one Brandon based his on.
20 years ago you couldn't buy this information from ANY SHORCE. Thank yall so much for getting this info out there . This is how we bring manufacturing back to the USA and get kids into a fulfillingand high paying job they can be proud of .....way to go team titan you have my respect and admiration🎉
I am 77 years old, God if I could be a few years younger, or just have access to these CNC Machines! I did a little Manule Machining in our R&D Machine shop at HP but that was self taught, like here is the airplane, you stat the engine here, here is the control stick and here is the throttle, advance the throttle until you are going fast and pull back on the stick - Move the stick in the direction you want to go! 😁 But at the time I did get the idea that how to hold a part of any complexity was going to be a big issue!
I know these videos are mostly for show but it must be nice to have all this time. I’d be expected to finish 3 of those first parts on an old Prototrak in the time you spent making the V block.
@@brahtrumpwonbigly7309 I’ve been using CAM since you typed your program on paper tape, but sure I’m old. I’ve used so many CAD / CAM systems there’s probably half a dozen that don’t even exist anymore. Funny thing is, not one of them ever made me a better machinist. I regularly make parts that go to space now. And a lot of those parts are programmed conversationally on a Prototrak.
8:35 i couldn't see anything that hints about orientation but how do you orientate it? because to me it looks like you can 360 it and scrap the part every time
On the 2nd fixture, I would have made the base a bit thicker, countersunk the hole from the top and machine a keyway so that the boss on the side slides in, should prevent the part from rotating, the top and bottom will also be exactly in line each time
Yep. It's obviously a bolt for a firearm. The clocking of the part is going to be important. If you're probing and using coordinate system comp, take the 15 seconds to say so.
For the second fixture I would skip the bold on the bottom and cut a slit on the other side that why the fixture will flex a bit and lock the part in with the vices pressure.
Around @3:33 what is that weird little radius path for the flat underside of the fixture? Is it because of the difference in thickness because you cut the top side first?
Mostly I´m using 3D printed fixtures for single parts through the lack off time. Modelling at day, printing over night, milling when needed. Works well for me. Hint: You can write all the necessary data on your fixture...,name, date, offsets. SW offers a die and mould feature...if the fixture has to fit like a glove.
Most likely not durable enough. As this part will hopefully need to be made several thousand times, and part of the r&d costs is getting fixtures made.
5:55 what you're describing certainly will lock the part for concentricity and repeatable z-axis location, but how are you going to index the part so that that cam is always in the same orientation, so that the workpiece does not rotate? some kind of separate piece that locks onto a feature of the cam and to the sidewalls of the pocket?
hmm i got a question althought the 2nd fixture, how can you indicate it for it to be straight sinds it has ''ears'' and that the features you machine must be in line with the ''ears'' on the side so how can you put it in the fixture , lock it down and be precise? cause the ears will still be able to move a little bit sinds there is a huge cap?
Love these videos for ideas. My question is on the vblock you made why did you not bring a tap up from the side so when you set the part in there you would not have to indicate it. Being the part was cut from wire edm they would repeat. So a tab or even a screw you could adjust to touch the bottom of the part flange. Then you would not need to indicate the top of the block to make sure its flat.
I love what you made in the last part and have done very similar before, but there is an issue in the alignment of the bottom feature. I would have made a fixture just like yours but having a piece that aligns the bottom feature.
I don't know about the machine he did it on, but a few modern FANUC systems at least can indicate the angle of a surface in X/Y, then rotate the entire program to whatever angle was indicated.
Stupid question from someone who has zero knowledge about CNC regarding that first part, wouldn't it have been easier to drill the internal features first while the out side of the part is still nice and square and then machine the 120° Angle afterwards? E.g. Machine the lower side, drill the holes and countersinks, then machine the 120° angle at the end. Is there anything that makes doing it in that order impossible? Would it somehow be more complicated that way?
I'm curious to see your workholding solution for a lathe in terms of turning a solid of revolution, which is cut in half along the axis of rotation, has no technological holes for bolts to join them back together, and you have very tight tolerances on OD and ID, so you have to keep them in one position without any displacement from each-other during all the further lathe setups, after they are cut in half. Especially, when it's a longer part, and there are some clamping forces only where the chuck holds these halfs in one piece, while the overhanging body beyond the jaws will be displaced as soon, as cutter touches it.
I have a very similar part to the second one, but no thread to hold it, I use a three jaw chuck to hold it, it doesn't have that thing sticking out. I need to put our three jaw chuck on a fixture plate to make setups easier.
Taking time to design a fixture like this also means that if a customer comes back and wants to order 10 next time... then 100, you're not stuck in a bad spot trying to design a better solution because you spent the time setting it up once instead of finding a consistent solution the first time
Wait, so you machined the radius smaller than the part so you wouldn’t be sitting on the V of the part, is that what you’re saying? I thought you’d want to sit on the V and not sit on the center radius? Maybe I’m not understanding what you meant, I took it as you machined it smaller so it wouldn’t hit first (the radius) but that does not make sense to me.
Thank you brother for this very priceless informations I am sorry for being so late 😅 I think now I'm not the first commenter now I'm the last one here 😅
I often made work holding fixtures for one off parts because well over half the time they become repeat parts and in the long run it saves a lot of time and aggravation. The little bit of extra time spent on the ones that don't become repeat orders is far outweighed by the ones that become repeat orders.
They don't need to add rotational clocking to the bolt because it's a one off. All they have to do is rotate the table, indicate it, and call it a day.
@@vonpredator wasn’t trying to give that connection away specifically but yes this seems to be the AK50V3 bolt, Brandon likely allowed them to make some videos. Super cool!
And then file those burrs by hand, anneal that workpiece with locally sourced timber, and inform your boss how long it all took via vaccuum tube mail. Then wait for your foreman to pull the tail of the pterodactyl and yell "YABBA-DABBA-DOO!"
while you "have enough time" into your 1 part thats not how 99% of shops work. cant make a fixture for every part when you have 5, 1 part jobs a day everyday. Almost every time; clamping it in while indicated is the correct answer.
Sorry to say but this is longest possible solution for the first part. Making fixture, and later storing it somewhere because part might come back in the future. First operation is to mount stock material in erowa 90 degrees clamping chuck. Use hole popper and burn starting holes. Second operation is wire edm and cutting this 3 holes. Third operation is to rotate the part 90 degrees and cut entire shape and cut off finished detail. 3 holes on edm will be maybe 30 - 40 minutes but milling machine is free and dont have to produce any fixtures. Of course you have to buy erowa chucks and holders up front but they are very usefull for lots of diffrent operations on wire edm and sinker edm.
You would still have to set up to chamfer the holes in the mill. So why not drill the holes if you have to set it up that way anyway, it's way faster, no hole popper, no slow EDM cutting, and they don't demand the accuracy of an EDM. Not to mention, if I don't put it in a 90 degree chuck on the wire, I can cut a whole gang of these out in one program using a plate.
@@trevorgoforth8963 Operation alone is faster on mill but 3 holes maybe 8mm in diameter (yeah, stupid Euro guy here) are in my opinion about 40 minutes tops on wire(and if accuracy is not critical then just one pass should be enough), on mill you will probably lose about 2 hours to model and make this fixture. Hole popper is not big deal. If i remember correctly 1 minute per 40mm of steel with 2mm pipe is how fast should hole popper burn at least according to charmilles service technician. If you have to make 10 of these then yes, my method is inferior but for one part i can fight to the last tooth and i know im faster. Lets say whole part is made on wire. Come on, for chamfer alone would you fire up mill ? or just simple hand chamfering tool to brake the sharp edges ? I know you guys are about precision and im mold maker so 0.01mm is my entire possible field for mistakes so i know what we are dealing with. I just think this fixture is maybe good as a lesson but well... no one pays for fixtures.
I can't help but wonder how many Brandon Herrera viewers are binge watching this channel right now. Stoked to find this channel to be honest. Love CNC machining and this channel lets me see how it all actually works. Back to the binge!
A ton of views and subs since Brandon posted yesterday. We will be posting videos showing exactly how his parts were made etc etc. Thank you.
@@TITANSofCNC I'd be stoked if this all ends in a Titans of Armoring Academy.
@@TITANSofCNC For me the best part was that I was already subscribed to Both channels. Absolutely Amazing to see you guys work on the AK50, and absolutely amazing to see Brandon at the CNC shop in a later video!
Fantastic Collab!
And thank you for sharing this! I love watching the parts being machined. There is just something so satisfying about it.
@@TITANSofCNC now you'll just need to coach Brandon on how to setup and fixture for production runs of several hundred at a time. Or at least it would be nice as his standard AK stuff is constantly out of stock.
Maybe even get him to move into machining all his own ak parts rather than relying on surplus.
Yeah, definitely not Brandon's AK-50 bolt, absolutely not 😀I hope Brandon takes Titan and the guys shooting sometime in the future. Great work!!
Saw that as well,
Seems very familar
After this, if it works, I want to see if Brandon can successfully design an astartes bolt gun
Oh man just watched Brandon’s video, the AK-50 prototype v3 is gonna be SICK!
Great video! I came here to watch this one after watching Brandon's video about the AK50 update.
Thanks
We will release videos soon on exactly how to machine each component
@@TITANSofCNC awesome. I might subscribe just so I can see how you guys machined the components.
For parts from the wire EDM with crazy angles I sometimes use the "scrap" to hold my parts - it already has the profile I need, so I can usually just remove some material off of the top to allow for indicating on the parts and then make a couple of threaded holes in the scrap and clamp my part down without worrying too much about the whole thing sliding around.
This is what I would have done as well. That scrap piece is already made, fits perfect, and priceless.
I'm not a machinist, but that's exactly what I was thinking: just start from the material you cut it out from?
@@robl4079 wouldn't the wire thickness make a difference?
Exactly what I was thinking. If you cut it out of something then you should already have a matching part that got tossed. Just use/modify that.
@@kaushikiyer9445 It should still be the same shape. Even if you need to modify it slightly it should still be easier than starting from scratch.
Please more on fixturing/ work holding, this is sweet!
Didn't know Titans of CNC was making AK-50 parts
Tell me that this is NOT Brandon's AK-50 Bolt!
Does this mean it's going into full production?
@@AlexS-zr2nbno, he needed someone to machine the parts
It sure looks like it doesn't it? But the possibility does exist that the part is based on the same original bolt design as the one Brandon based his on.
OH MY GOD WHAT IF IT IS???
That's exactly what I thought!
So Stoked Brandon used you guys. I watch both your channels. Super collaboration!
20 years ago you couldn't buy this information from ANY SHORCE. Thank yall so much for getting this info out there . This is how we bring manufacturing back to the USA and get kids into a fulfillingand high paying job they can be proud of .....way to go team titan you have my respect and admiration🎉
I am 77 years old, God if I could be a few years younger, or just have access to these CNC Machines! I did a little Manule Machining in our R&D Machine shop at HP but that was self taught, like here is the airplane, you stat the engine here, here is the control stick and here is the throttle, advance the throttle until you are going fast and pull back on the stick - Move the stick in the direction you want to go! 😁 But at the time I did get the idea that how to hold a part of any complexity was going to be a big issue!
4:43, that looks like Brandon Herrera's AK-50 Bolt
Amazing channel guys, found you out recently but i'm so positively surprised by you !
Keep it up
Awesome to see 2 of my favorite channels come to gather on an awesome project 👊👍💪
I know these videos are mostly for show but it must be nice to have all this time. I’d be expected to finish 3 of those first parts on an old Prototrak in the time you spent making the V block.
Or just do it before the part is done in the EDM, like they would have if they weren't trying to show an old geezer like yourself how to use cad/cam.
@@brahtrumpwonbigly7309 I’ve been using CAM since you typed your program on paper tape, but sure I’m old. I’ve used so many CAD / CAM systems there’s probably half a dozen that don’t even exist anymore. Funny thing is, not one of them ever made me a better machinist. I regularly make parts that go to space now. And a lot of those parts are programmed conversationally on a Prototrak.
8:35 i couldn't see anything that hints about orientation but how do you orientate it? because to me it looks like you can 360 it and scrap the part every time
Loved seeing your thought process in designing and machining the fixtures. Ciao, Marco.
Great workholding ideas Jessie! Thanks for sharing, keep em' coming.
On the 2nd fixture, I would have made the base a bit thicker, countersunk the hole from the top and machine a keyway so that the boss on the side slides in, should prevent the part from rotating, the top and bottom will also be exactly in line each time
Me too...
Yep. It's obviously a bolt for a firearm. The clocking of the part is going to be important. If you're probing and using coordinate system comp, take the 15 seconds to say so.
that was the first thing that I meant to say :D
@@markwatson4101 depends on what is being done, but they probably just indicate it straight and go from there.
For the second fixture I would skip the bold on the bottom and cut a slit on the other side that why the fixture will flex a bit and lock the part in with the vices pressure.
8:50
"Yo dawg, I heard you liked bolts..."
That would be EPIC! if Brandon teams up with Titans to produce the AK50.
Let's go Brandon
Man do I have news for you
Does Titan still do full production work on contract? Seems I only see them doing lots of r&d type one off work.
thanks for helping Brandon
Yep, it's even called Bolt v3.1
4:40 LOL is that Brandon's ak50??
Excellent job!!!
Very nice step-by-step instructions!
Around @3:33 what is that weird little radius path for the flat underside of the fixture? Is it because of the difference in thickness because you cut the top side first?
4:25 for the V-block, why did you not cut in some reliefs for where the drill is going to come through the part when you drill those three holes?
Great video Jessie! Very smart workholding!👏
Mostly I´m using 3D printed fixtures for single parts through the lack off time. Modelling at day, printing over night, milling when needed. Works well for me. Hint: You can write all the necessary data on your fixture...,name, date, offsets. SW offers a die and mould feature...if the fixture has to fit like a glove.
Most likely not durable enough. As this part will hopefully need to be made several thousand times, and part of the r&d costs is getting fixtures made.
@brandon Herrera you guys both are in Texas…. I wouldn’t be surprised!
How do you stop the bolt from rotating in the bolt fixture? Just the clamping force from the socket head screw?
5:55 what you're describing certainly will lock the part for concentricity and repeatable z-axis location, but how are you going to index the part so that that cam is always in the same orientation, so that the workpiece does not rotate? some kind of separate piece that locks onto a feature of the cam and to the sidewalls of the pocket?
Should come in handy if you have to machine out more ak-50 bolt design updates. nice stuff.
at 5:01 he sad he can just rotate one direction but what about rotateing C and B (or A) -90 or am i missing something?
hmm i got a question althought the 2nd fixture, how can you indicate it for it to be straight sinds it has ''ears'' and that the features you machine must be in line with the ''ears'' on the side so how can you put it in the fixture , lock it down and be precise? cause the ears will still be able to move a little bit sinds there is a huge cap?
Love these videos for ideas. My question is on the vblock you made why did you not bring a tap up from the side so when you set the part in there you would not have to indicate it. Being the part was cut from wire edm they would repeat. So a tab or even a screw you could adjust to touch the bottom of the part flange. Then you would not need to indicate the top of the block to make sure its flat.
hmmm, that second part, with its massive cam lug, large triangular locking lug, you sure its not for the AK50?
This video should blow up now that Brandon's is out. Stellar work.
Great help. Thank you
AK-50!!!!!!!! Brandon Hererra!
4:33 50BMG AK?...
That's gotta be the bolt for the AK 50
I have amazing news from the future.
I love what you made in the last part and have done very similar before, but there is an issue in the alignment of the bottom feature. I would have made a fixture just like yours but having a piece that aligns the bottom feature.
How did you position the lug accurately on the second part. looked like you did not have a way to locate it radially.
Indicating one of the flats on top is my assumption.
I don't know about the machine he did it on, but a few modern FANUC systems at least can indicate the angle of a surface in X/Y, then rotate the entire program to whatever angle was indicated.
Stupid question from someone who has zero knowledge about CNC regarding that first part, wouldn't it have been easier to drill the internal features first while the out side of the part is still nice and square and then machine the 120° Angle afterwards? E.g. Machine the lower side, drill the holes and countersinks, then machine the 120° angle at the end. Is there anything that makes doing it in that order impossible? Would it somehow be more complicated that way?
excellent topic and solutions
I'm curious to see your workholding solution for a lathe in terms of turning a solid of revolution, which is cut in half along the axis of rotation, has no technological holes for bolts to join them back together, and you have very tight tolerances on OD and ID, so you have to keep them in one position without any displacement from each-other during all the further lathe setups, after they are cut in half. Especially, when it's a longer part, and there are some clamping forces only where the chuck holds these halfs in one piece, while the overhanging body beyond the jaws will be displaced as soon, as cutter touches it.
Could you not have milled the same profile for the second part into soft jaws?
Does mastercam have a "Dark Mode" setting now? Or did you go and change all the colors individually??
I have a very similar part to the second one, but no thread to hold it, I use a three jaw chuck to hold it, it doesn't have that thing sticking out. I need to put our three jaw chuck on a fixture plate to make setups easier.
Hi Titan of CNC team,
Can you sharpen a knife with a flat mill in a cnc mill?
The radius of the fixture is SMALLER than the part?
Wouldn't that make it touch there first and cause issues? Did you mean larger?
thats a nice bolt!
how was your guys' transfer from autodesk to solidworks?
Какая версия Mastercam?
Taking time to design a fixture like this also means that if a customer comes back and wants to order 10 next time... then 100, you're not stuck in a bad spot trying to design a better solution because you spent the time setting it up once instead of finding a consistent solution the first time
Wait, so you machined the radius smaller than the part so you wouldn’t be sitting on the V of the part, is that what you’re saying? I thought you’d want to sit on the V and not sit on the center radius? Maybe I’m not understanding what you meant, I took it as you machined it smaller so it wouldn’t hit first (the radius) but that does not make sense to me.
More fixturing videos pls
The boss is always in the way...
Why not use a 3-jaw chuck on the second part?
Where the Ayykayy Fiddy tho?
Jokes aside this is beautiful work you're doing.
Thank you brother for this very priceless informations
I am sorry for being so late 😅
I think now I'm not the first commenter now I'm the last one here 😅
I learned machining from Chuck Norris. I hold the part with my bare hands during milling, my accuracy 0.001mm.
If you learned from Chuck, that would be in freedom units.
'Merica
@@brahtrumpwonbigly7309 💥
I often made work holding fixtures for one off parts because well over half the time they become repeat parts and in the long run it saves a lot of time and aggravation. The little bit of extra time spent on the ones that don't become repeat orders is far outweighed by the ones that become repeat orders.
Machine the part complete first in the cnc and then have the dove tail edm'd last
2nd fixture has no clocking feature
It doesn't seem like the last fixture solves the rotating issue
That will be big bolt carrier
.50 my guess
Look up the AK50.
Am i the only one who thinks the second part looks a lot like an ak bolt(maybe ak50 even)?
8:35 Definitely machinist hands.
They don't need to add rotational clocking to the bolt because it's a one off. All they have to do is rotate the table, indicate it, and call it a day.
AK 50 parts sweet
More robodrill content in future?
nice
The second part seems like an AK rifle bolt🧐
I was thinking same thing, but bigger. Is it the Ak50?
@@RoboDriller brandon was looking for company that could produce AK50 parts, it would be great if it was titans !
ua-cam.com/video/v_n6LaGhgZQ/v-deo.html totally look the same !
I had posted a comment in that video and link to Titan, Maybe Brandon looked him up! 🤞🏻
@@vonpredator wasn’t trying to give that connection away specifically but yes this seems to be the AK50V3 bolt, Brandon likely allowed them to make some videos. Super cool!
Brandons 50bmg AK Bolt :D
That looks like a beefy AK bolt, AK-50 maybe?
You sound like George Cooper from young Sheldon...
I start to do this, and then I notice on the job traveler that it says 30 minute setup time, lmao.
...but its milling... we need just the same...for TURNING PARTS!
And now do this on a ’80 CNC only with your brain, a pen, and a blank sheet.
Why?
And then file those burrs by hand, anneal that workpiece with locally sourced timber, and inform your boss how long it all took via vaccuum tube mail. Then wait for your foreman to pull the tail of the pterodactyl and yell "YABBA-DABBA-DOO!"
Anders, that may be my favorite comment reply ever
You know what, just make a video so I can my mastercam to look like that dark version
👍💯👍💯👍💯👍💯👍💯👍💯👍💯👍💯👍💯👍!!!
More "Russia Russia Russia"... 🙄
? I didn't put this comment on this video!
Круто.
….just use the other side of the EDM cut out?
MasterCAM has a dark mode‽
ak50 bolt
Brandon sent me
Just use soft jaws!
Your videos are vey nice....but please speak slower 😅
while you "have enough time" into your 1 part thats not how 99% of shops work. cant make a fixture for every part when you have 5, 1 part jobs a day everyday. Almost every time; clamping it in while indicated is the correct answer.
No more background music. WTF!!!
there is no reason you couldnt use aluminum jaws to hold this part
Buy heavy duty permanent magnet that you can turn off and on 🤭
Most bosses moan about making fixtures. Thats another 1 hour making that v block. I know it makes sense but talk to the bosses.
вау призму отфрезеровали!
Sorry to say but this is longest possible solution for the first part. Making fixture, and later storing it somewhere because part might come back in the future. First operation is to mount stock material in erowa 90 degrees clamping chuck. Use hole popper and burn starting holes. Second operation is wire edm and cutting this 3 holes. Third operation is to rotate the part 90 degrees and cut entire shape and cut off finished detail. 3 holes on edm will be maybe 30 - 40 minutes but milling machine is free and dont have to produce any fixtures. Of course you have to buy erowa chucks and holders up front but they are very usefull for lots of diffrent operations on wire edm and sinker edm.
You would still have to set up to chamfer the holes in the mill. So why not drill the holes if you have to set it up that way anyway, it's way faster, no hole popper, no slow EDM cutting, and they don't demand the accuracy of an EDM. Not to mention, if I don't put it in a 90 degree chuck on the wire, I can cut a whole gang of these out in one program using a plate.
@@trevorgoforth8963 Operation alone is faster on mill but 3 holes maybe 8mm in diameter (yeah, stupid Euro guy here) are in my opinion about 40 minutes tops on wire(and if accuracy is not critical then just one pass should be enough), on mill you will probably lose about 2 hours to model and make this fixture. Hole popper is not big deal. If i remember correctly 1 minute per 40mm of steel with 2mm pipe is how fast should hole popper burn at least according to charmilles service technician. If you have to make 10 of these then yes, my method is inferior but for one part i can fight to the last tooth and i know im faster. Lets say whole part is made on wire. Come on, for chamfer alone would you fire up mill ? or just simple hand chamfering tool to brake the sharp edges ? I know you guys are about precision and im mold maker so 0.01mm is my entire possible field for mistakes so i know what we are dealing with. I just think this fixture is maybe good as a lesson but well... no one pays for fixtures.