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Thanks for a great video and thanks for sharing your settings for the engraving. I been working on my setting for the vector cut and not happy with them. Mind sharing your cut settings. I have the fusion edge 50 watt. Thank Again.
It depends on the thickness. Usually I run 100% power and 100% frequency. Speed depends on the thickness but I would set up a test grid on a piece with different speed settings and see which one gives you the results you’re looking for.
I have been using an old Epilog 40W CO2 laser. Using Rowmark two ply acrylic. My main struggle is getting sharp looking engraving. It usually ends up looking “blurry” especially around small details. What settings should I play with to help? Thanks for the video!
The settings really depend on your machine. My suggestion is to use multiple passes at lower power if you’ve been having issues. If it looks blurry, it may also be your graphic.
Nice video. Thank you. I thought Epilog Laser recommends leaving the air assist on to keep the lens or mirror from getting damaged by dust. Does leaving the air assist off cause plastic dust to get on the lens or mirror?
It’s a balance. Epilog is going to recommend that because they are looking out for the machine and not the best results. Just make sure you clean them right after and you’ll be fine.
Can you do some of this on a 10 watt diode laser? I know diode can't cut white, or blue. I wanted to try the metallic looking material on black. I haven't done any acrylic yet but saw this material on another video and want to see if it's something I can work with
@@MakerExperiment Thanks for the suggestion. I am actually more than a couple of months in search before buying a laser machine. If I get sorted out I will let you know.
@@mikestormm (Sorry I know this is old) I do this with my 10W xTool D1 - frequently, why I bought it for my company to start. I make use lightburn to create my file - Black top/White under - I can NOT cut through I use shears to hand cut, a box I line around my words - Engrave (FILL) at Speed 150 in/m, 100% P, 2 Pass, NO AIR - Red top/White under - same settings but WITH Air assist on (don't know why but it's a better cut) - Gold top/Red under - I can cut (LINE) Speed 8 in/m, 100% Power, 2 Passes. I run an electrictian shop, and we use these all the time to label panels, control boxes, and for our safety signage. Good Luck - now I'm trying to try my hand on the tri-layer because I'm sick of hand cutting my designs and I don't want to buy/learn a new laser.
We have a lasermark fiber. And it doesn't do a terrible job but it's not perfect. It has a hard time doing black with white , red with white. What i have noticed online with those colors is turning the power down and something about being out of focus. I could be wrong but i think someone said try adjusting the focus.
When you contour cut the material, the edges are getting sticky. If you do a lot of this material, Also the vectorbed is getting sticky and dirty. And this will effect following projects or need to clean the bed first. And that is a lot of work. I do use air assist when contour cutting. To avoid the material getting burned. But then I have the problem of the mentioned dirt on this edges. Perhaps a video specific on contour cutting this multi colour material?
@@JeroenBatavier a lot of the cutting issues you’re experiencing sounds like you either have too high a power, too low of a speed, or too high of a frequency. When you’re cutting it, you should do a test grid to figure out which settings produce the best results to get rid of the sticky edge.
If you have any video requests, please leave them below. Also, get a discount on all of Enduramark’s products.
enduramark.com/collections/engravable-plastics
Code to save 10%: MAKEREEPS10
Good stuff Trevor. Thank you.
I’m glad it was helpful!
Great video!
Thank you very much!!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for a great video and thanks for sharing your settings for the engraving. I been working on my setting for the vector cut and not happy with them. Mind sharing your cut settings. I have the fusion edge 50 watt. Thank Again.
It depends on the thickness. Usually I run 100% power and 100% frequency. Speed depends on the thickness but I would set up a test grid on a piece with different speed settings and see which one gives you the results you’re looking for.
Great tips! Very informative.
Thanks Kevin!
I have been using an old Epilog 40W CO2 laser. Using Rowmark two ply acrylic. My main struggle is getting sharp looking engraving. It usually ends up looking “blurry” especially around small details. What settings should I play with to help? Thanks for the video!
The settings really depend on your machine. My suggestion is to use multiple passes at lower power if you’ve been having issues. If it looks blurry, it may also be your graphic.
Nice video. Thank you. I thought Epilog Laser recommends leaving the air assist on to keep the lens or mirror from getting damaged by dust. Does leaving the air assist off cause plastic dust to get on the lens or mirror?
It’s a balance. Epilog is going to recommend that because they are looking out for the machine and not the best results. Just make sure you clean them right after and you’ll be fine.
Which laser is better to embrace acrylic? CO2 or fiber laser? And which are using?
I would recommend CO2 for acrylic. I use both but I really only use CO2 for acrylic materials.
I have the Epilog Fusion Edge. When you discuss air assist off, how do I shut the air assist off? This is different than the vacuum?
You should have a compressor that is connected to the air assist port. Just turn that compressor off and monitor the machine.
Great information thank you. Are you using a CO2 laser and if so can it be done with a 20 watt diode?
I am using a CO2.
Do you know if a diode would work? Thanks.
@@mikeguidry49 it should for some of those. I personally haven’t tried.
@mikeguidry49 I’ve never used one so I’m honestly not sure but what I’ve read says it will. I’d say give it a try.
Can you do some of this on a 10 watt diode laser? I know diode can't cut white, or blue. I wanted to try the metallic looking material on black. I haven't done any acrylic yet but saw this material on another video and want to see if it's something I can work with
I’ve never tried to use a diode laser for this kind of stuff. I’d just try it and see if it works.
Hi, got the same question, any news if a 10w output diode laser can manage to angrave and cut this type of material?
Thanks in advance for a reply
I honestly don’t know as I don’t have a diode laser to try it with. I’d suggest asking someone that has a diode laser. Wish I could be more helpful.
@@MakerExperiment Thanks for the suggestion. I am actually more than a couple of months in search before buying a laser machine. If I get sorted out I will let you know.
@@mikestormm (Sorry I know this is old) I do this with my 10W xTool D1 - frequently, why I bought it for my company to start. I make use lightburn to create my file - Black top/White under - I can NOT cut through I use shears to hand cut, a box I line around my words - Engrave (FILL) at Speed 150 in/m, 100% P, 2 Pass, NO AIR - Red top/White under - same settings but WITH Air assist on (don't know why but it's a better cut) - Gold top/Red under - I can cut (LINE) Speed 8 in/m, 100% Power, 2 Passes.
I run an electrictian shop, and we use these all the time to label panels, control boxes, and for our safety signage. Good Luck - now I'm trying to try my hand on the tri-layer because I'm sick of hand cutting my designs and I don't want to buy/learn a new laser.
Very informative video
Thank you!
We have a lasermark fiber. And it doesn't do a terrible job but it's not perfect. It has a hard time doing black with white , red with white. What i have noticed online with those colors is turning the power down and something about being out of focus. I could be wrong but i think someone said try adjusting the focus.
You can definitely put it out of focus to widen the beam size.
I've had the best luck having it slightly out of focus. Another advantage is it will help account for minor material warping.
Definitely, it can help a lot.
Have you made nameplates white w/black letters? Curious to know what the smallest font can be used and still be legible.
The smallest I’ve ever tried was size 8 font.
Can you contour cut out the project after engraving it?
Yes. I didn’t do it in the examples but if you look at when I hold up other colors I’ve used, you’ll notice they were cut.
When you contour cut the material, the edges are getting sticky. If you do a lot of this material, Also the vectorbed is getting sticky and dirty. And this will effect following projects or need to clean the bed first. And that is a lot of work.
I do use air assist when contour cutting. To avoid the material getting burned. But then I have the problem of the mentioned dirt on this edges.
Perhaps a video specific on contour cutting this multi colour material?
@@JeroenBatavier a lot of the cutting issues you’re experiencing sounds like you either have too high a power, too low of a speed, or too high of a frequency. When you’re cutting it, you should do a test grid to figure out which settings produce the best results to get rid of the sticky edge.
What is 80% speed and 40% power? For speed can you provide mm/s or mm/m and for power and how many watts is your laser?
The speed on that machine I believe is 120 inches per second. This was a 60 watt machine.
👍👍
Thanks man.
Are you able to help teach how to use lightburn?
Unfortunately, no. I don’t use lightburn but I know a few people who do that may be able to help you. It just depends on what you’re looking for.
👍
What type of laser is this?
I was using an Epilog CO2 laser.