I'm so glad you share this kind of stuff. I'm unofficially a millwright and I have my own machines. I literally believe I can fix anything, any machine. Thanks for the education over the past few months. I never fail to watch a video from you guys.
I only have 82° chamfering tools, up to 2". Most flat & oval head fasteners, I have used, are the same. Tool & Die work, was mostly counter boring. Rule of thumb, three fourths the fastener's diameter, was the depth of the counter bore. But, occasionally, flatheads were used on die sets. So only the dowels position them, and any misalignment with the chamfers, could cause, unwanted stresses. Pin fit wasn't press, most of the time, but it wasn't gonna slide either. They were honed often, together, size for size.
When I was younger and had a precision tool shop, I would do step grinding on the Lars-Gorton pedestal grinder; I never did it like this because, I wasn't steady enough. I ground drills, mills, reamers both straight and spiral flute, form mills and form saws, hollow mills, etc. . . , .
I watched the guys hand grind drill bits in the machine shop I worked in when I was 17. I practiced on my own stuff until I got sort of ok at it but then I started a body jewelry company when I was around 20 and all the materials were 316 stainless so I used tiny (#63ish sizes, I think the largest was a #43 or something as the most common size I used was 0-80) cobalt drills. I was teaching myself and at 2 bucks a bit they started adding up, and don't get me started on trying to teach someone. I got really good at putting a sharp tip on tiny broken twist drills, and if you can do that the big ones are easy. Nobody I know sharpens bits so I get them all for free so I have thousands of them myself. Once you realize that it's two spinning chisels it's really easy to visualize how you want them. It's a great skill to have and I've sharpened a lot of bits over the last 30+ years. I can't remember the last time I actually bought one. If I get some with galls taken out of the shank I just knock the high spots off, flip the bit around in the lathe, and turn it true. It's no big deal and I've saved a bunch of money doing it
Gotta love it when folks who don't have a clue tell you that you are doing it wrong! LOL just found your channel looking forward to learning something👍
Good one loved it. Reminded me of being a kid and trying to build go carts out of old baby carriages.. with no money and a super dull drill bit. ..And your dad yelling at you not to ‘ruin’ his drill bit. Lol
That was a great lesson and reminder that being resourceful is at the heart of machining. I've made a little of my own tooling but they are usually one-offs that I didn't want to wait on acquiring the "proper" tool.
Yup, it took me forever to get the feel of hand sharpening drills too. Now I do a better, faster job than my dedicated drill sharpening machine! The one who dies with the most tools wins.
Love you clips and videos guys!! I’m just getting to be able to tool back up slowly. I had all that I ever needed to build pretty much anything I wanted to. Lost it all when my shop burned down two years ago 😔. It’s always hard buying something I already had boughten. Or worse yet I already had three of 😢
Im able to sharpen my old drills enough to drill mild steel, but they dont stay sharp, i drill 1 maybe 2 holes and its blunt again lol not sure why i think i maybe puttinf too fine of an edge on it
Surface grinder, you can use a mounted diamond. Run it back and forth, until the face is cleaned up. Also how a grinding wheel is shaped, for special jobs. I have a little platinum rectangular cube, filled with diamonds, it won't wear out, in my lifetime. Common wheels, you can use a hand held dresser, it's a few spurs with washers, on an axle. Run it across the face, and you can square up your regular wheels.
Nice Baldor, not China junk. We got a boatload of Chinese grinders, brought in to Universal Electric, back in the eighties. The centrifugal start switch was attached to the rotor, by a single metric screw, that would come loose, not start the grinder, sit there burning up, or not disengage, and the start winding would burn up. Motor switches are supposed to be pressed on, China wants to make things cheaper. Americans buy American, for a reason. Also, I have used a spin jig, on the surface grinder, to get diameters quickly, then hand relief, later.
Ah nice diamond dresser in a vise grip... have a few of those lying around (no surface grinder.. yet) and now i have to do it this way. i must try it. Edit: also i want to thank you again for all the data, techniques, perspective and stories you tell. nerds like me eat it up but sadly i think if you put "youtube" under education on a job resume you'll get laughed at.
I applied to a few jobs and they asked me to click a box for AI to review my app. I don't think it would matter if you said you were proficient or not. The people who do read resumes don't know the job.
Adam Savage once said "I'm not a welder, just a guy who owns a welding machine". That's how I feel about my machining. I love hearing about machining, and it's a wonderful past time, but I'm pretty far from being a machinist
O:55, right, the SAE recommend taper is: .125" taper per inch 1.5" taper per foot (Or was, at least. Don't start cranking on your bit-brace without confirmation.) Now... about those tapered splines 😂
Foundry, had an overhead crane, the motor, kept breaking the shaft. We kept switching to tougher materials, three keys on a tapered end. Made a long heavy plate, for the center and dividing head. Set the taper angle on the set-up, cut the keyways. Plate was also good for splines.
I'm so glad you share this kind of stuff. I'm unofficially a millwright and I have my own machines. I literally believe I can fix anything, any machine. Thanks for the education over the past few months. I never fail to watch a video from you guys.
Thanks for sharing ! I enjoy watching your videos I always learn something from each one.
I only have 82° chamfering tools, up to 2". Most flat & oval head fasteners, I have used, are the same. Tool & Die work, was mostly counter boring. Rule of thumb, three fourths the fastener's diameter, was the depth of the counter bore. But, occasionally, flatheads were used on die sets. So only the dowels position them, and any misalignment with the chamfers, could cause, unwanted stresses. Pin fit wasn't press, most of the time, but it wasn't gonna slide either. They were honed often, together, size for size.
When I was younger and had a precision tool shop, I would do step grinding on the Lars-Gorton pedestal grinder; I never did it like this because, I wasn't steady enough. I ground drills, mills, reamers both straight and spiral flute, form mills and form saws, hollow mills, etc. . . , .
You are too cool a tool man! Thanks for sharing! Great videos! Great producer! Great knowledge!
I enjoy your videos, always something interesting and useful. Thanks!
I watched the guys hand grind drill bits in the machine shop I worked in when I was 17. I practiced on my own stuff until I got sort of ok at it but then I started a body jewelry company when I was around 20 and all the materials were 316 stainless so I used tiny (#63ish sizes, I think the largest was a #43 or something as the most common size I used was 0-80) cobalt drills. I was teaching myself and at 2 bucks a bit they started adding up, and don't get me started on trying to teach someone. I got really good at putting a sharp tip on tiny broken twist drills, and if you can do that the big ones are easy. Nobody I know sharpens bits so I get them all for free so I have thousands of them myself. Once you realize that it's two spinning chisels it's really easy to visualize how you want them. It's a great skill to have and I've sharpened a lot of bits over the last 30+ years. I can't remember the last time I actually bought one. If I get some with galls taken out of the shank I just knock the high spots off, flip the bit around in the lathe, and turn it true. It's no big deal and I've saved a bunch of money doing it
Gotta love it when folks who don't have a clue tell you that you are doing it wrong! LOL just found your channel looking forward to learning something👍
Good one loved it. Reminded me of being a kid and trying to build go carts out of old baby carriages.. with no money and a super dull drill bit. ..And your dad yelling at you not to ‘ruin’ his drill bit. Lol
Bravo John....a very handy piece of Knowledge.....Paul in Florida
That was a great lesson and reminder that being resourceful is at the heart of machining. I've made a little of my own tooling but they are usually one-offs that I didn't want to wait on acquiring the "proper" tool.
Yup, it took me forever to get the feel of hand sharpening drills too. Now I do a better, faster job than my dedicated drill sharpening machine!
The one who dies with the most tools wins.
Remember, "People don't own their possessions, their possessions own them"...
The tax man will get their share of your estate. Sell it, distribute and enjoy it.
I contracted at red dog for a few weeks one time. Cool experience, you all can keep it though 😜
Ok three views now I get it. Dave gingery mentioned this now I see what he was talking about. Thanks 👍
Kudos for keeping at it until you got it. Nice work.
-Cameraman
Love you clips and videos guys!! I’m just getting to be able to tool back up slowly. I had all that I ever needed to build pretty much anything I wanted to. Lost it all when my shop burned down two years ago 😔. It’s always hard buying something I already had boughten. Or worse yet I already had three of 😢
You can do the same with a step-bit. But this is probably a more accurate design. Thanks for the knowledge
Im able to sharpen my old drills enough to drill mild steel, but they dont stay sharp, i drill 1 maybe 2 holes and its blunt again lol not sure why i think i maybe puttinf too fine of an edge on it
How do you dress a grinding wheel, you left that out like we automatically know how to do that
Surface grinder, you can use a mounted diamond. Run it back and forth, until the face is cleaned up. Also how a grinding wheel is shaped, for special jobs. I have a little platinum rectangular cube, filled with diamonds, it won't wear out, in my lifetime. Common wheels, you can use a hand held dresser, it's a few spurs with washers, on an axle. Run it across the face, and you can square up your regular wheels.
Nice Baldor, not China junk. We got a boatload of Chinese grinders, brought in to Universal Electric, back in the eighties. The centrifugal start switch was attached to the rotor, by a single metric screw, that would come loose, not start the grinder, sit there burning up, or not disengage, and the start winding would burn up. Motor switches are supposed to be pressed on, China wants to make things cheaper. Americans buy American, for a reason. Also, I have used a spin jig, on the surface grinder, to get diameters quickly, then hand relief, later.
Ah nice diamond dresser in a vise grip... have a few of those lying around (no surface grinder.. yet) and now i have to do it this way. i must try it.
Edit: also i want to thank you again for all the data, techniques, perspective and stories you tell. nerds like me eat it up but sadly i think if you put "youtube" under education on a job resume you'll get laughed at.
I applied to a few jobs and they asked me to click a box for AI to review my app. I don't think it would matter if you said you were proficient or not. The people who do read resumes don't know the job.
Adam Savage once said "I'm not a welder, just a guy who owns a welding machine". That's how I feel about my machining. I love hearing about machining, and it's a wonderful past time, but I'm pretty far from being a machinist
I can relate to having those extra tools. Then comes the day i go looking 'cause i know i have it ooooor was it HAD it?
wow, this video had 3 or 4 of your short videos in it...cheers
Did you ever work for Alaska Gold Company? Or around dredge 5&6??
👏👏👏
Howee who cuts your hair mate? It looks slick as hell
which machine tool do you think he used to cut his hair?
If you don't keep it short enough, there are plenty of machines, that will volunteer.
I've had to do the same.
O:55, right, the SAE recommend taper is:
.125" taper per inch
1.5" taper per foot
(Or was, at least. Don't start cranking on your bit-brace without confirmation.)
Now... about those tapered splines 😂
Foundry, had an overhead crane, the motor, kept breaking the shaft. We kept switching to tougher materials, three keys on a tapered end. Made a long heavy plate, for the center and dividing head. Set the taper angle on the set-up, cut the keyways. Plate was also good for splines.
I would like you to go to a real hairdresser and to buy yourself a new fance overall. And I,m sure I,m not the only one