Ha! I wish you had presented this in 1959. In the early 1960s I was rebuilding my XK120 (I had already finished the MGA) and also had a mind-deadeningly boring genetics class at Purdue University. I sat in class hand polishing the suction chambers of the SUs to keep from going to sleep, and the professor (an ex-marine sergeant) saw me, asked me what I was doing. I showed him the carbs and he looked quite annoyed, but said no more. After class he called me to his office and said he had a MG Midget and he wondered if I'd polish the carb on it. I said, sure, and after I did it he asked me if I wanted to be his lab assistant, which I also did. I got a good grade in the class, but not because of my infatuation with genetics.
I remember coming up to your old shop with my dad in the 1980's to pick up a set of rebuilt HS4's from you for his '69 MGB restoration project. The bowls were beautiful.
On the subject high gloss/sandpiper toilet paper that we had in the UK up to the 70s, I think it was pretty universal until the 50s when softer paper started to be advertised. However it was still used in public buildings and the washrooms of blue collar workers for a couple of decades after. It was the last vestage of middle class managers to have toilets with soft paper. Perhaps that might partly explain why the British car industry had so many strikes. 😂
Sure wish you were in my neighborhood. Had carburetor prob`s with single original Stromberg and now have DCOE side-draft Weber & header (needed for installation, plus orig. head-pipe was split). Still haven`t fired up the car with the new setup. Also, there is no (carb) provision for distributor vacuum advance. Is it okay to use T-fitting @manifold brake booster fitting for that?
Great tutorial John but I have a question. Is there any chance of warping the dome from excessive heat generated by the sanding process? I did a process very similar to yours on my wood lathe, even with the (wetsanding) but afterwards when I tightened the screws that hold the dome to the carb, the piston would bind. If I left the screws loose it moved as it should. The only reason I can think of is I warped the dome. Any thoughts?
Yeah, that's definitely a risk when its locked in a lathe as you can't really judge the heat. Going by hand on a wheel means you know when its getting too warm, and you can either back off for a while or quench it (as he does here). Personally, I'd just swap between domes letting each cool when it got to a point I didn't like to hold it. Oh, and put a thick towel on your bench to improve the survival aspects of the dome if the wheel grabs it.
I have so much respect for you and love your videos but there are better ways to polish aluminum. I feel there are many was this process could go south on someone, especially us home mechanics that don't do this type of stuff all the time. Biggest thing is go slow, take your time, and most importantly, be safe doing it. It's not fun if you lose a finger or damage a part beyond repair.
Ha! I wish you had presented this in 1959. In the early 1960s I was rebuilding my XK120 (I had already finished the MGA) and also had a mind-deadeningly boring genetics class at Purdue University. I sat in class hand polishing the suction chambers of the SUs to keep from going to sleep, and the professor (an ex-marine sergeant) saw me, asked me what I was doing. I showed him the carbs and he looked quite annoyed, but said no more. After class he called me to his office and said he had a MG Midget and he wondered if I'd polish the carb on it. I said, sure, and after I did it he asked me if I wanted to be his lab assistant, which I also did. I got a good grade in the class, but not because of my infatuation with genetics.
Outstanding video and presentation. Welcome back John.
I remember coming up to your old shop with my dad in the 1980's to pick up a set of rebuilt HS4's from you for his '69 MGB restoration project. The bowls were beautiful.
Great video! Thank you for sharing.
Excellent informative video John
Great video! Did a ' 77 gearshift knob on a drill press. Looks like chrome.
Thank you !
Thank you
On the subject high gloss/sandpiper toilet paper that we had in the UK up to the 70s, I think it was pretty universal until the 50s when softer paper started to be advertised. However it was still used in public buildings and the washrooms of blue collar workers for a couple of decades after. It was the last vestage of middle class managers to have toilets with soft paper. Perhaps that might partly explain why the British car industry had so many strikes. 😂
Sure wish you were in my neighborhood. Had carburetor prob`s with single original Stromberg and now have DCOE side-draft Weber & header (needed for installation, plus orig. head-pipe was split). Still haven`t fired up the car with the new setup. Also, there is no (carb) provision for distributor vacuum advance. Is it okay to use T-fitting @manifold brake booster fitting for that?
What kind of buffing compound on the wheel, if any, did you use? Great Job!
Our toilet paper has improved somewhat now 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I did the dashpots on my 58 MGA and my 65 MGB with 600 wet/dry then used red tripoli rouge. no machine
Great tutorial John but I have a question. Is there any chance of warping the dome from excessive heat generated by the sanding process? I did a process very similar to yours on my wood lathe, even with the (wetsanding) but afterwards when I tightened the screws that hold the dome to the carb, the piston would bind. If I left the screws loose it moved as it should. The only reason I can think of is I warped the dome. Any thoughts?
Yeah, that's definitely a risk when its locked in a lathe as you can't really judge the heat. Going by hand on a wheel means you know when its getting too warm, and you can either back off for a while or quench it (as he does here). Personally, I'd just swap between domes letting each cool when it got to a point I didn't like to hold it. Oh, and put a thick towel on your bench to improve the survival aspects of the dome if the wheel grabs it.
Really made me laugh , that toilet paper was called Izal, we brits remember it well but not with affection
Yes, I hated it at school. Never understood how anyone could use it.
If you have all the correct buffs and compounds, there's no need whatsoever to go beyond about 320 grit with paper.
A simple homemade soda blaster works wonders on aluminum. (videos available) Then polish.
6:00 Which side did you wipe with? 🤔
you really should look into vapor blasting
I spoke too fast, Thanks Again!
Make sure not to get the domes and the pistons mixed up!
I have so much respect for you and love your videos but there are better ways to polish aluminum. I feel there are many was this process could go south on someone, especially us home mechanics that don't do this type of stuff all the time.
Biggest thing is go slow, take your time, and most importantly, be safe doing it. It's not fun if you lose a finger or damage a part beyond repair.