You couldn't have posted this at a better time. I've been trying to figure out how to do this myself, and you just did all the legwork for me. Thanks. Love your vids, by the way.
I did something like this around 1980 when i built my darkroom. Back then, suppliers were more darkroom friendly, so options were more numerous and prices a lot lower. My hot and cold feed into a Leedal mixing control valve which has a larger thermometer reading output temp. The output Ts, one to a faucet for unfiltered output (Water supply; print washing). The other feeds to a Unicolor filter which handles cold up to about 115 degrees F (film washer; chem mixing water) with 5 micron filter and active charcoal filter, then to faucet. These connections are all hard copper piping. Final touch is snap connections for hose water line, film and print washers. My mistake was not considering the effect of highly calcium (hard) water, which has deposited inside the mixing valve; it still auto stabilizes temp, but the valve adjusting the temp level is partly jammed. I'm going to have to disassemble copper pipes to pull the valve for repair or replace - ugh! I wish I had used flex connectors as shown here.
I'm actually hooking up my plumbing this week! instead of getting some pedestrian laundry sink for my second faucet -- already have an intellifaucet i got used from someone in vermont closing their darkroom -- i'm going to do what you're doing! thanks, again, for the video!
I was fortunate enough to get mine from a retiring photographer, attached to a size stainless sink. It does not have filtration, but I'm on city water. However, for mixing developers, and final wash, I just buy distilled water from the grocery store. $1/gal. Heavy users may be better off with a reverse osmosis / DeIonizer filter system. But that's getting pretty fancy!
Not a plumbing expert so maybe a dumb question, is there a reason why you filter each temperature line before the thermostatic mixing valve? Could you simplify the setup and only filter after the mixing happens?
I was reading the datasheet for the 270-LF mixing valve (as one does) and see it specifies "Temperature adjustment range, 90-140F (32-60C)" Are you still able to get stable temperature of e.g. 20°C?
Are you using the for B&W processing? I looked up the specs on the valve and it doesn’t look like you can set it as low as 68f. Are you able to get temps this low with your set up? Great vid BTW!
How were you able to order through McMaster Carr? I tried ordering some tygon tubing from them, but they cancelled my order because I am an individual rather than a business. Found your channel through APUG, looks like a great resource. Thanks!
Do you know what the minimum temp for that valve is? They don't list it on the Leonard website. I have been looking for a mixing valve and most of them start at 85 degrees or higher
This is invaluable. God bless you for not only working this out but publishing it for everyone to duplicate
You couldn't have posted this at a better time. I've been trying to figure out how to do this myself, and you just did all the legwork for me. Thanks. Love your vids, by the way.
Glad to help!
I did something like this around 1980 when i built my darkroom. Back then, suppliers were more darkroom friendly, so options were more numerous and prices a lot lower. My hot and cold feed into a Leedal mixing control valve which has a larger thermometer reading output temp. The output Ts, one to a faucet for unfiltered output (Water supply; print washing). The other feeds to a Unicolor filter which handles cold up to about 115 degrees F (film washer; chem mixing water) with 5 micron filter and active charcoal filter, then to faucet. These connections are all hard copper piping. Final touch is snap connections for hose water line, film and print washers. My mistake was not considering the effect of highly calcium (hard) water, which has deposited inside the mixing valve; it still auto stabilizes temp, but the valve adjusting the temp level is partly jammed. I'm going to have to disassemble copper pipes to pull the valve for repair or replace - ugh! I wish I had used flex connectors as shown here.
I'm actually hooking up my plumbing this week! instead of getting some pedestrian laundry sink for my second faucet -- already have an intellifaucet i got used from someone in vermont closing their darkroom -- i'm going to do what you're doing! thanks, again, for the video!
Just started setting up my darkroom, and I don't want to pay >$1000 CDN for a water panel either. Invaluable information; thank you very much.
I was fortunate enough to get mine from a retiring photographer, attached to a size stainless sink. It does not have filtration, but I'm on city water. However, for mixing developers, and final wash, I just buy distilled water from the grocery store. $1/gal. Heavy users may be better off with a reverse osmosis / DeIonizer filter system. But that's getting pretty fancy!
Super helpful!!
That is a great set up for water control! I am needing to set up something like this
Not a plumbing expert so maybe a dumb question, is there a reason why you filter each temperature line before the thermostatic mixing valve? Could you simplify the setup and only filter after the mixing happens?
Insanely helpful video
Glad it helps
Thanks so much for this!
Could you provide us with the schematics … I think I know how it works but can not completely figure out the layout ;-)
VERY INTERESTING VIDEO MAYBE HERE ON ARGENTINA I DONT BE ABLE TO OBTAIN ALL MATERIALS BUT THE EXPLANATIONS IS VERY HELFULL BEST REGARDS
Since some of the items are through eBay, they may offer international shipping. It may be worth asking the sellers.
Very thankfull for your answer Best regards from a collegue of ARGENTINA
I was reading the datasheet for the 270-LF mixing valve (as one does) and see it specifies "Temperature adjustment range, 90-140F (32-60C)" Are you still able to get stable temperature of e.g. 20°C?
Yes I am
Are you using the for B&W processing? I looked up the specs on the valve and it doesn’t look like you can set it as low as 68f. Are you able to get temps this low with your set up? Great vid BTW!
I use it for all processes. It works great at 68F
How were you able to order through McMaster Carr? I tried ordering some tygon tubing from them, but they cancelled my order because I am an individual rather than a business.
Found your channel through APUG, looks like a great resource. Thanks!
I’ve ordered through them for years without a problem. Have you tried calling them?
Do you know what the minimum temp for that valve is? They don't list it on the Leonard website. I have been looking for a mixing valve and most of them start at 85 degrees or higher
I have no issues keeping the temp at 20°C
@@TheNakedPhotographer Does the valve have temperature marks on it or do you just adjust it and watch the thermometer?
I just adjust using the thermometer I attached
Links are broken can we get updated links?
www.google.com/search?q=leonard+thermostatic+mixing+valve+270+lf&client=safari&hl=en-us&sxsrf=ALeKk018EfqgLK7byuHIXr0zSQ427DFuRQ%3A1628132642566&ei=IlULYafTIYe5tQaYqJmgDw&oq=leonard+thermostatic+mixing+valve+270+lf&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBQghEKABOgQIABBHOgQIIxAnOgYIABAWEB46BQghEKsCOggIIRAWEB0QHjoFCAAQgAQ6BQgAEM0CUI9gWJaKAWCWmQFoAHABeACAAccBiAGXCZIBAzIuN5gBAKABAcgBCMABAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing this. May I ask you if there is a cheap alternative to archival washers? Is it worth to build one from scratch?
I got mine used, I have never tried to build one, so I can’t give any advise on that.
a kodak tray siphon works pretty damn well, too.
What type of filter goes in the housing?
Whatever type you want to get. There are different micron levels available.
The Naked Photographer thanks!