1954 VW EARLY OVAL WINDOW metalworking the right quarter rust hole removing thick lead filler
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
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Always impressed by the time, thought and attention you put into these repairs Mike. A pleasure to watch.
love the no nonsense', keep it simple', metal work'! that you do'. thanks mike'
Cool Mike, can't wait to watch it in the morning. Happy 4th Tim
Makes me want to get a VW and restore it. I’m inspired and captivated at many levels. So looking forward to witnessing the progress of this vintage machine. Keep it up please. Me and VW’s go back a long ways. In ‘64 I was 7 and the old man bought a ‘59 and drove it 1000 miles to Seattle and back. I was so fascinated by this simple but well thought out technology by the croutes. We later bought a ‘65 which I got my drivers license in. My second vehicle was a ‘72. Then a ‘73, ‘69, a ‘68, a ‘ and finally a ‘69 westie. I am presently VWless but still grip my love of the peoples car. I need to get a van to drive til I die.
Nice work! Really enjoyed watching the progression of the repair from start to finish.
Thanks! 👍
I really enjoy watching your series Mike. Having a ‘54 myself that I’m trying to get worked on, it’s really fun to see the care and attention to detail that you’re making with this car. I know nothing about body work so unfortunately, I will have to have that piece of my project sent out to be done by somebody else. Reading the comments though, I really wish people were not so critical of the fine work you appear to be doing.
Great video enjoyed the tutorial on repairing the lower quarter panel.keep doing what your doing and carry on 😎😎😎👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Looks great, once it’s all glazed, sanded and finish primed it’ll be damn near perfect.
Thanks Mike. Great detail. I will be making the same repairs on my 66.
Right on!
Bam … like nothing happened , straight forward and clear tutorial sir 😊👍🏼
nice fix, that repair must have been moons ago using all that led
Great work as always Mike!! Love watching you work brother!
Thanks for watching
mike ,really love your videos dont listen to these your videos are slow people one day they will pay attention and learn anyways keep truckin a fan apple valley,ca gary
looking good
Thanks 👍
Another great repair! Always love catching these videos.
tanks for sharing, great execution's of your thought process combined with amount of effort for the final result...experience is your mentor...YOU"RE THE MAN
good vis dude , keep doing what your doing , suggestion , use a pencil , PH neutral to paint chem
What a cool car you got there
Amazing job as always, you know very well your trade 👍🏽👏🏽
Mobil legendaris yg sangat keren di jamannya bossque mantap 👍
Love that slapping file... never saw one in use..
I love it!
Really nice work. I don't know if you've ever shown how you do inner fenders. I'm curious what kind of paint you use and how far you go prepping the inner fenders. Also, do you ever spray undercoating under your cars?
I think I am going to prep all inner fenders and under the fenders for a light coat of base and 2 coats of a lesser expensive medium solids clear. This will keep it all sealed up. then I may undercoat. Or shoot body shootz on prior to paint. which is a rubberized texture like the newer euro cars.
Always fun to watch.
Killer video and great work as always. Happy 4th, boss!
Keep Cool... getting hotter here too..but not as Hot as there? Humidity is High here now...been decent this Spring ( lots of rain ) and past June... i was sweating yesterday working on my Exterior door...😥😰😩
yea Gary when it hits 30 up there it is hot with the humidex. Usually mornings are not too bad here or up there. The sun is not as hot as down here or even worse in FL....That sun just is so hot. In the winter you cant even feel the sun up there. bright and shiny and cant feel it. In the US midwest it is cold like near 0 in the morning but when the sun comes out it warms up. In the north just stays cold.
Like 38 to 40 down here. in the afternoon. mornings are like 20 25..
Either some serious hammer and dolly work and stud gun.. or clip it.
Amazing
06:14 Shocking layer..
I didnt know you could put it on that thick. Guy must have liked filing it off. OMG that takes so much time.
That was a lot of lead. Great to see you doing body work again. Are you grinding the welds with a flapper disc and what grit? Always something to learn from your vids!
usually just 40.
Hi Mike, good video as always. Hey, on the puller dent can't you just fill it in with weld and grind down smooth? I have just used body filler on my old outboards where there is no access and works fine especially on fuel tanks
You can I did that on the deep one in the front. didnt show it on camera.
Hey, i was right then for welding it. Seems like a better fix for sharp dents rather than bondo
Nice job mike
Cool your working back on this car, such a cool car. Man, I looked and the lower rear 1/4 was like £36 English and it included the wrap around the B post, and rear inner arch lower section. Surely it would have been easier to cut that lower section out and graft the new panel in. Probably some warpage, but easier to work with than all that creasing ?
would have been better if I saw the rust holes where the running boards bolt up before I cut it. I would have gone all the way down on that part. Easier to do that but not the whole section. More warpage that part was not thin at all. The creased metal went up pretty high. would not have helped that at all. still would have needed same amount of hammering and filler. Even if I had the higher repair section would have had the same issue. when you weld that it will warp unless you take a lot of time to cool every weld. And on that big of a section it would really take a long time.
Thanks for the reply and explanation. It sure looked a difficult repair. I guess I just really like the car a lot, sure would like to own it. You talk about time a lot and I totally get your philosophy, life’s to short, need to get it done and enjoy it, I watched every episode of the single cab rebuild. It’s not a 74 super beetle tho, so surely worth a bit more time, and I’d have liked to see a big panel grafted in and fixed without the kitty hair. But hey, man it’s your car I remind myself. Looking forward to the next bit of progress on this. It’s a cool car man
Great video Mike! What brand is the primer in the can?
medallion by rubber seal Really good easy to use spray can.
@@Mikefngarage where are you buying Rubber Seal products?
@@matthewharrelson6076 2 local body shop supplies have it near me. cabreraautopaintsupplies.business.site/? I cant find it online anywhere
@@matthewharrelson6076 medallionrefinish.com/
medallionrefinish.com/ check for a local supply
Hey Mike ! Time to get the Lead out ?
Looked a little rough. Otherwise, good job. I build custom cars by the way.
😀
What a bad restauration. Welch ein Murks. Das ist typische amerikanische Restaurierung. Gruselige Schweißnähte mit Spachtel zuschmieren.
Do not hope you are bodybuilder trained
90% of bodywork is done this way.....I dont know what your saying.
@@Mikefngarage The 90% you mention must be those who do bodywork and who are not trained in the subject. But I want to mention time in your video where you are doing things wrong
1- 6.00 you remove all the lead, it is not necessary as the lead is soldered to the body and therefore no rust will form.
2- 9.00 you spot weld nails to pull dents out, every time you do a spot welding you will burn paint and rust protection of the bow back, then again let the lead sit.
3-16.00 get an overview of the repair before you cut in the new part, so you do not have to cut 23.30 and to make two plate joints.
4-28.00 you make 90 degree angle joint it is not good the plate will crack there, always use circle corner joints.
5- 29.40 you ful welds far too fast, which means that the heat from the welding causes the body plate to diverge and when the plate gets cold again it contracts more than it was originally. Therefore you have 34.40 a very dented surface .To straighten it you do NOT need to heat .You MUST hit with the hammer and resistance on the weld, that way you will straighten the plate.
6-30.10 if you look at your weld over your left hand you will see that there are holes, the weld is not tight, now you use plastic filler, it can absorb moisture and start rust attack and the moisture causes the paint to bubble up. therefore, lead is used on such joints and edges.
finally so when you need to adjust your welder then try with a current of 4-5 and then screw up the wire speed and stop when your welder sounds like a furious bee
Sincerely
Per
a trained bodybuilder from Denmark
@@perbhjlund1765 Lead was cracked and compromised and way too thick. using filler over it was WRONG!!!!!! plus there was rust in that panel that needed to be cut out. You cannot weld on to lead filler. LEAD IS CRAP IMO.... Every hotrod guy I know removes it.....That is why they stopped using it like 30 years ago....Because it shrinks and cracks. worse than Plastic.
I dont know where you were trained but your information is not good. I have been doing body work and welding for 40 years. What school did you go to? Most of the guys I know teach the schools around here. Schools Like Hotrod University and UTI are taught by people here who have don this as long as me. IMO you waisted your money being trained!
Coating the rust from the inside of the door is not a problem. you use a 360 degree spray can to do the inside. Will be doing that later.
@@perbhjlund1765 and yes I know I should cool my welds down more and get less warpage. DUHHHH....I say that all the time. I am just not that patient....So I do what I want to do and my cars last for many years. I am not trying to do a car for someone 100 years from now who might abuse it or whatever they want to do with it I am doing it for me.
@@Mikefngarage Hej .Bly kan IKKE krympe og revne hvis den er lagt rigtig på. Grunden til at der ikke bruges så meget bly længere er 1 - det kræver mere rengøring af karrosseriet inden pålægning 2 - det kræver øvelse at lægge på 3 - det er sundhedsskadelig at bruge . Hvor imod plastikspartel kan bruges af enhver der laver bil i indkørslen .Som du selv skriver der forskel på kvalitet .Som oplysning er jeg udlært som karrosseripladesmed og fra den tid hvor det rep.stykke du har købt .Det lavede vi selv .Men der skal ikke være kamp imellem os om hvem der er bedst. Så kan jeg få sat video op vil jeg vise hvordan jeg laver og skifter en dørbund på en MAN lastbil
Hilsen Per