I'm from more of a larger scale Garage Kit background than minis but can confirm you absolutely can paint over varnish. It's standard practice for me to finish a layer, like getting my skintones just right, then apply a layer of varnish to protect that layer before moving on. Paint on paint is almost impossible to remove. Paint on Varnish will come off easily with a damp q-tip if caught in time. One hint I will give is leave your varnish to cure for at least 24 hours before painting over it. "Dry" is NOT the same as 'Cured'. If you don't allow your varnish enough time to cure, instead of forming a protective shell, it acts more like liquid masking. You try to remove a mistake and the varnish will start to peel like PVA glue, taking all the work you've done over it with it.
Almost 6 years since this was released, but I still love Miniac videos for skill refresher after having taken a long break from painting. Regarding varnishing, I do varnish my minis because I make them for games. One thing about picking what type of varnish to use (gloss, satin, matte), I like my models to look “real”. So since I am hand painting the varnish, I will sometimes use different types of varnish on different parts of the model. Shiny metal can have gloss because it should be shiny, cloth and sometimes leather get matte varnish because cloth (unless it is silk) is matte colored, and skin and hair will commonly get satin varnish because people’s skin and hair are usually slightly shiny due to natural oils but not glossy. Of course if I don’t have the time to do detailed varnishing, satin is a good middle ground.
You can also use a gloss varnish before washes or transparent paints to increase surface viscosity and force mediums into recesses or shadows. Essentially reduces friction to stop paint adhering to the raised surfaces.
Thanks for covering this topic. I always have had problems with this part. It is a difficult subject because it seems so simple, yet can undermine all of your previous hard work. I paint oil paintings, and the same issues apply there. Try killing a 100 hours in 10 easy strokes!
So, for tabletop miniatures, if you want to maintain the look of, say, the sheen on a horse or on leather, is the solution to use different varnishes selectively? For example, applying satin varnish to a horse and to leather, and then matte varnish elsewhere.
This is to show you im dedicated to become a viewer love your work, I've been a sub on and off so many times because of that outtro and jump over your vids only for that freaking PTSD shock at the outtro xD just hope the best for ya' I know you dont need me, but your new vid I saw on the updates made me feel compelled :) FOR THE ALGORITHM!
Vallejo varnish. Shake well. Shake more. Shake shake and shake. 20 minutes later when you’re done it might not come out foggy. And then it doesn’t dry hard and can peel off.
Glad I bought Italeri satin varnish, as it is the best Varnish that Vallejo got. Its cheaper than Vallejo's satin varnish because its unthinned and you need to thin it for airbrush so you got a lot of varnish for the price. Just remember flow improver and airbrush thinner.
Varnish seems necessary when applying large amounts of citadel shades/washes to models. I find that their shades tend to dry with a drastically glossy finish when more than one layer is applied. I was weathering something rusty with Typhus Corrosion, Valejo Mecha Dark Rust wash, Army Painter Dark Tone, and Citadel's Argrax Earthshade. The Agrax Earthshade seems to have left splotches of glossy finish after being stippled on, and ruined the effect. The other colours of wash didn't leave any such imperfections. I've also had this same problem with Athonian Camoshade, and Drakenhof Nightshade
If a citadel wash drys with a glossy finish you either didn't shake the bottle or you didn't shake it enough. When properly mixed it should not finish with a gloss unless you bought the gloss version of the shade.
Did the video mention you can paint different parts of a mini different types of varnish? I often put different finishes on different features, especially flesh vs clothing or armor.
I've tried using the Vallejo Gloss varnish because my parts are meant to be handled. As it turns out, the varnish stays sticky to the touch, even after days.. A dry finger wont notice, but if you wait or press harder, moisture from your hand will reactivate(?) the varnish and stick to your finger. It is definitely not a natural feel when handling. Searching around it seems other people have this issue also. How can this be solved?!
@Cameron Rose Thanks for the comment. Indeed I'm trying to use it for non-minis painting. If you paint flat surfaces you'll notice more than bumpy ones because your fingers establish bigger contact area. I now believe the solution is to use a more durable varnish for plastics. Have to research more.
Not a pro yet. So I never used the little grass tuffs on my bases before now. I use spray cans. Should I apply my tuffs before or after I spray my varnish.
What are your thoughts on pledge revive it? I know it's for floors, but I've heard it does the job as a finishing coat. Does miracles on clear parts, specially on canopies.
Hi there is it alright if I ask you a question? If I apply matt varnish say Army Painter's brand over shiny metallic paint ie; silver and gold after I have gloss varnished it will it ruin the paint on my model? All I want to do is dull the paint by the way how would you best water down varnishes? With water or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium?
By the stands they are on tthree red statues (sheens?)with the diff varnish, look like the same statue. So problably its satin on matt and gloss on satin? If so, is this a fair comparison? I mean, how would the glossy statue look like without the first two basecoats..
Is it normal that, even after varnishing, if for example I scratch the figure with the nail or with a hard edge, the paint comes off? I mean, shouldn't the varnish avoid that?
I live in Florida where normal humidity is at least 50%. I always hear people advise about high humidity when spraying but no one ever says what is considered high humidity. So is 50% too humid for spraying outside?
It doesn't really mater how humid the room is as long as you make varnish dry out quickly and under warm conditions. I'd just suggest to use alcohol-based ones + point table lamp at the model to help it dry faster.
scott, love bro, so much that im trawling through your back catalogue the chin hair didn't age well , oh and the try hard sexy voice when your not face on screen hilarious, your a legend dude.
It depends. Normally I apply them at the end. However, If you want to weather your model (e. g. chipping, using oil paints/enamels to make streaks, pigments etc), I recommend you that you apply the decals before. Therefore the decal will be also weathered and the end result will be more realistic.
Depends. I only use them on Models, there I apply them after the Basecoat, then seal them with a varnish and paint from there on. I think this helps to unify the model, especially if you weather it. However if your model is really clean, I might apply them after the model is finished before the varnish. I suggest allways to seal decals, even if you don't seal your models otherwise
Theres two choices. Most modellers who build planes and tanks deal wtih decals alot, so they often prefer to gloss varnish, then apply decals, then flat or flat varnish after. The idea is that gloss provides a better surface for decals to go onto because its smoother so you dont get decal silvering (when air is trapped under the decal). But i find this is a bit of a myth. Decals can go onto any surface, and if you have trouble with silvering a solution is to roll the side of a q-tip over it to push the air out. The most important thing is to seal the decal under a clear coat, be it gloss or matt. Afterall, its just an extremely thin film and if you leave it exposed and then handle it, it could come off. You could just brush some gloss clear varnish over and around the decal to seal it, then put your varnish of choice on after to make sure it blends into the same level of shininess as the rest of your figure.
hey I'm having a problem with vallejo varnish the matte varnish really changes the color of the paint I'm working with not like it's clouded it but it changes the tone slightly enough it doesn't match the rest of my army sprayed with testors dullcote, I've also noticed even after leaving it over night to dry it feels kind of like rubber is there something I possibly did wrong or like could I do something to make it tougher cause it scratches off easier than the testors even after over night as well as remove the rubbery feeling of the model
Hey Jackson Golden, I've heard of matt varnishes toning down the colour of the paint under it also. A possible remedy could be to test out a thin gloss coat first to seal and protect the colour and then apply the Vallejo matt over it to dull down the gloss to your desired shine. As for letting it dry over night varnishes tend to need 2-3 days usually to fully "cure" as opposed to just being dry to touch. Letting your models dry for 2-3 days could provide a difference in feel and Testors is technically a lacquer as compared to a varnish. Lacquers tend to be more durable in general due to their different chemical make up to varnishes. That being said, 2 thin coats of a varnish should be fine to protect your models from general gaming and handling.
Hey Miniac, I stumbled across this video looking for a way to protect thin, fragile parts on a tabletop miniature that was 3d printed using PLA+. Is varnish used to strengthen small pieces or would something else offer better protection? Also, that miniature you're using as an example; what is it? And can I buy one without purchasing an entire army?
To be honest, I don't varnish much of any of models, so to answer your question, no. I think if I wanted to return the shine though, I'd simply apply a little satin varnish over the metallic bits. The metallic pigments are still there, it's just their shine is hidden by the matte coat, so a little satin should bring them out again. Thanks for watching!
Noob miniature painter here. Does anyone know why "pros/experienced" painters talk about mixing coats of Gloss and Matt varnish instead of using Satin? Isn't the final effect the same but with the simplicity of only using one product? And if not, what's the difference? I read that using Matt over Gloss never achieved a full matt effect and it's closer to a satin finish. I have finished my first couple of minis and i'm really confused about this last varnishing step...
In regards to mixing, there's not much difference. If you already have gloss and matte, you simply don't have to buy satin unless you really need the convenience.
Great video. I have always been worried about varnishing because the only time I ever did it, I turned my entire painted mini into a high gloss reflection beast. Have you experimented with matte varnish and then brushed gloss over it? The reason I ask is because I have recently finished a Nurgle force and brushed on some Citadel 'Ardcoat in places to give the guts and pus a nice shine. I want to varnish them to protect the finish as they are a gaming army, but would like to brush the gloss finish back on if I lose it, as I really like the effect it adds.
+Brendan Dougherty This is definitely something you can do. Seal it all with a matte varnish and then apply your gloss to areas you want to look wet and gooey.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! URGENT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I used a citadel gloss varnish on my ultramarine, but when I painted the varnish on it eroded the dry painted blue I used!!! !!!!!!!!Please advise!!!!!!!
airbrush next time (an airbrush setup can be had for very little in most places of the world now) Sadly if you are drybrushing it will often mean very little medium is sticking the pigment to the model and makes it very fragile if you are going for a good soft drybrush. Airbrushing or spraying varnish will solve your issue. This said, make sure that the drybrushing has cured first. Give it a day before trying to varnish if you are doing it by hand. Paint being dry to the touch doesn't mean that it is cured.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm from more of a larger scale Garage Kit background than minis but can confirm you absolutely can paint over varnish. It's standard practice for me to finish a layer, like getting my skintones just right, then apply a layer of varnish to protect that layer before moving on. Paint on paint is almost impossible to remove. Paint on Varnish will come off easily with a damp q-tip if caught in time.
One hint I will give is leave your varnish to cure for at least 24 hours before painting over it. "Dry" is NOT the same as 'Cured'. If you don't allow your varnish enough time to cure, instead of forming a protective shell, it acts more like liquid masking. You try to remove a mistake and the varnish will start to peel like PVA glue, taking all the work you've done over it with it.
4 years later *confidence grows* PAINT MORE MUUUUUUIIIIIIINIIIISSSS!
Seriously though, the "public" speaking has literally changed you in a good way.
Satin definitely looked the nicest. :)
PoppyAppletree no gloss does :)
@@Brodysseus113 no satin is best
@@Brodysseus113 gloss here looks horrible
why the f did i read this as satan
yeah tbh "none" and "satin" looked the best
Almost 6 years since this was released, but I still love Miniac videos for skill refresher after having taken a long break from painting.
Regarding varnishing, I do varnish my minis because I make them for games. One thing about picking what type of varnish to use (gloss, satin, matte), I like my models to look “real”. So since I am hand painting the varnish, I will sometimes use different types of varnish on different parts of the model. Shiny metal can have gloss because it should be shiny, cloth and sometimes leather get matte varnish because cloth (unless it is silk) is matte colored, and skin and hair will commonly get satin varnish because people’s skin and hair are usually slightly shiny due to natural oils but not glossy.
Of course if I don’t have the time to do detailed varnishing, satin is a good middle ground.
This Channel is frkn lit! Satin it is for me!
You can also use a gloss varnish before washes or transparent paints to increase surface viscosity and force mediums into recesses or shadows. Essentially reduces friction to stop paint adhering to the raised surfaces.
Scott, do you ever brush on varnishes? If so, I would love to see a video that details your process and choice of varnish.
Been using a Pledge floor varnish for years. Works great. Just brush on and go.
Thanks for covering this topic. I always have had problems with this part. It is a difficult subject because it seems so simple, yet can undermine all of your previous hard work. I paint oil paintings, and the same issues apply there. Try killing a 100 hours in 10 easy strokes!
So, for tabletop miniatures, if you want to maintain the look of, say, the sheen on a horse or on leather, is the solution to use different varnishes selectively? For example, applying satin varnish to a horse and to leather, and then matte varnish elsewhere.
I like how the Gloss varnish makes it look like a toy, in a sort of stylized/artistic, toy parody aesthetic kinda way
Satin looks the nicest over all but I can see gloss making some Custodes get that super golden shine they're known for.
I miss this Scott, so prim and proper.
This is to show you im dedicated to become a viewer love your work,
I've been a sub on and off so many times because of that outtro and jump over your vids only for that freaking PTSD shock at the outtro xD just hope the best for ya' I know you dont need me, but your new vid I saw on the updates made me feel compelled :) FOR THE ALGORITHM!
I'm surprised that you did not include gloss + matte finish in the photo row. since you talked about that was one of the most used versions. 3:48
Vallejo varnish. Shake well. Shake more. Shake shake and shake. 20 minutes later when you’re done it might not come out foggy. And then it doesn’t dry hard and can peel off.
good diferences for varnish now i know which one to pick up my self.
Glad I bought Italeri satin varnish, as it is the best Varnish that Vallejo got. Its cheaper than Vallejo's satin varnish because its unthinned and you need to thin it for airbrush so you got a lot of varnish for the price. Just remember flow improver and airbrush thinner.
So whats the best varnish for models like Sanguinary Guard or Stormcast ? Would satin be it?
Very useful for the final steps of my army! Thanks dude
You may also use future floor polish for a gloss coat, just dip and it settles evenly.
Varnish seems necessary when applying large amounts of citadel shades/washes to models. I find that their shades tend to dry with a drastically glossy finish when more than one layer is applied.
I was weathering something rusty with Typhus Corrosion, Valejo Mecha Dark Rust wash, Army Painter Dark Tone, and Citadel's Argrax Earthshade. The Agrax Earthshade seems to have left splotches of glossy finish after being stippled on, and ruined the effect.
The other colours of wash didn't leave any such imperfections.
I've also had this same problem with Athonian Camoshade, and Drakenhof Nightshade
If a citadel wash drys with a glossy finish you either didn't shake the bottle or you didn't shake it enough. When properly mixed it should not finish with a gloss unless you bought the gloss version of the shade.
yup
this channel is too good
Did the video mention you can paint different parts of a mini different types of varnish? I often put different finishes on different features, especially flesh vs clothing or armor.
This is good advice, the gloss looked great on the power armor, but horrible on his skin.
Avyon404 I couldn’t tell because the dude has this nasty wide looking face.
But yeah matte or satin looks way better on skin
"Mini people" hit me harder than you thought
Thanks so much for making this! I don't do miniatures, however this will help a lot with model trains!
Thanks for this movie! :)
Love your channel man - keep it up!
+Michael Silverberg Thanks! I will try :)
Can you run liquitex through an airbrush if you water it down enough and or use an airbrush medium?
Appealing presenter with informative content!
just a Question can you strip down the varnish in red spirit or acetone?
Very informative video, thanks!
Can you use that Liquitex stuff in an airbrush? I'm looking for a cheap gloss to put on my gunpla before applying tamiya's panel liner
MY. F***********. HERO.
Good review. I am searching for my airbrush a cheap and also durable paint company. The most of them are expensive for that small quantity.
I've tried using the Vallejo Gloss varnish because my parts are meant to be handled. As it turns out, the varnish stays sticky to the touch, even after days.. A dry finger wont notice, but if you wait or press harder, moisture from your hand will reactivate(?) the varnish and stick to your finger. It is definitely not a natural feel when handling.
Searching around it seems other people have this issue also. How can this be solved?!
@Cameron Rose Thanks for the comment. Indeed I'm trying to use it for non-minis painting. If you paint flat surfaces you'll notice more than bumpy ones because your fingers establish bigger contact area.
I now believe the solution is to use a more durable varnish for plastics. Have to research more.
@@AV1461 Hi, I know it's a long time ago but what did you end up doing?
So you can use testor dullcote over water base acrylic paints?
Not a pro yet. So I never used the little grass tuffs on my bases before now. I use spray cans. Should I apply my tuffs before or after I spray my varnish.
What are your thoughts on pledge revive it? I know it's for floors, but I've heard it does the job as a finishing coat. Does miracles on clear parts, specially on canopies.
it look to me like the valejo satin keeps all the collors correct as where the gloss darkens them and the matte dulls them
Wish I could see an example of using the gloss then matte varnish on the same model. Is it the same as using a satin?
Which varnish can I use for plastic container (Outdoor)?Pls reply....
Hi there is it alright if I ask you a question? If I apply matt varnish say Army Painter's brand over shiny metallic paint ie; silver and gold after I have gloss varnished it will it ruin the paint on my model? All I want to do is dull the paint by the way how would you best water down varnishes? With water or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium?
Is it possible to brush on the Vallejo gloss sealer?
Absolutely. It's the only way I do it.
Awesome video! Helped me a lot!
Man seeing your old videos compared to your new ones is a weird experience lol
By the stands they are on tthree red statues (sheens?)with the diff varnish, look like the same statue. So problably its satin on matt and gloss on satin? If so, is this a fair comparison? I mean, how would the glossy statue look like without the first two basecoats..
it might be going too far or using wrong tools but i am thinking in varnishing armor in glossy and cloth in matte. I am crazzy?
Sprayed testors dullcote on a wizard I figured out how to drybrush on and totally ruined it. I was bummed. No more sprays for me.
Is it normal that, even after varnishing, if for example I scratch the figure with the nail or with a hard edge, the paint comes off? I mean, shouldn't the varnish avoid that?
Can you give ANY indication of how much to water down Vallejo matt varnish?
Fantastic video. Thank you, this helps alot 👊
I miss the videos like this, the new videos have too much innuendo, this is very helpful!
When your painting a certain area on the model and happy with it. Can you spray that area to protect it then paint more areas and do the same?
Vellejo gloss resin can be used on cotton canvas?
I was just wondering if I could paint my mini after varnishing it if I saw mistakes later on, you read my mind 😮
Awww, baby Miniac 😂
How do different varnishes affect metallic paints? I'm concerned it will dull the metallic sparkle? Thanks!
Matte will def dull metalics. Satin may or may not, depends on how satin it is (Vallejo's is pretty flat).
perfect! i was looking for a video on liquitex varnish since that's what is available near me
does the sample applies for mini action figures?
Should I thin gloss/matt Vallejo varnish when applying with brush?
Wondering this myself. Or would buying the air brush version be already thinned down enough for a brush
could you apply matt varnish as sort of primer? Instead of basecoating it?
I live in Florida where normal humidity is at least 50%. I always hear people advise about high humidity when spraying but no one ever says what is considered high humidity. So is 50% too humid for spraying outside?
It doesn't really mater how humid the room is as long as you make varnish dry out quickly and under warm conditions. I'd just suggest to use alcohol-based ones + point table lamp at the model to help it dry faster.
It is awesome to see these early vids.
I bought Vallejo Matt Varnish and applied to much of it on a miniature. Now its glossy :-( Can I fix this without repainting?
can you add a medium instead of water to varnish?
Hello sir, what’s the best way to clean brushes after using this varnish?
Should I wait 24 hours for paint to fully cure before applying varnish?
The liqiutex Matt varnesh takes how long to dry?
scott, love bro, so much that im trawling through your back catalogue the chin hair didn't age well , oh and the try hard sexy voice when your not face on screen hilarious, your a legend dude.
I can put different varnishes on different parts of the model? I assume so.
How do you use paint on varnish without it wiping away the paint during application?
You wait for the paint to dry first. Give it like a day after Alf then paint the varnish on and then wait another day to paint over
How long do I need to wait after painting before I apply varnish.
Hail Satin!
At what stage in the painting process do you think is the best to apply decals?
It depends. Normally I apply them at the end. However, If you want to weather your model (e. g. chipping, using oil paints/enamels to make streaks, pigments etc), I recommend you that you apply the decals before. Therefore the decal will be also weathered and the end result will be more realistic.
Depends.
I only use them on Models, there I apply them after the Basecoat, then seal them with a varnish and paint from there on.
I think this helps to unify the model, especially if you weather it.
However if your model is really clean, I might apply them after the model is finished before the varnish.
I suggest allways to seal decals, even if you don't seal your models otherwise
Theres two choices. Most modellers who build planes and tanks deal wtih decals alot, so they often prefer to gloss varnish, then apply decals, then flat or flat varnish after. The idea is that gloss provides a better surface for decals to go onto because its smoother so you dont get decal silvering (when air is trapped under the decal). But i find this is a bit of a myth. Decals can go onto any surface, and if you have trouble with silvering a solution is to roll the side of a q-tip over it to push the air out.
The most important thing is to seal the decal under a clear coat, be it gloss or matt. Afterall, its just an extremely thin film and if you leave it exposed and then handle it, it could come off.
You could just brush some gloss clear varnish over and around the decal to seal it, then put your varnish of choice on after to make sure it blends into the same level of shininess as the rest of your figure.
I would apply them juste before varnishing the model, this way you can avoid the glossy finish of the decal with matte varnish
I liked that white ghost model on the horse. 5/7
I think satin won, Is the best
Fantastic content! Congrats!
You are welcome!
Can you varnish a mini with mod podge matte?
But how do you apply varnish without an airbrush
hey I'm having a problem with vallejo varnish the matte varnish really changes the color of the paint I'm working with not like it's clouded it but it changes the tone slightly enough it doesn't match the rest of my army sprayed with testors dullcote, I've also noticed even after leaving it over night to dry it feels kind of like rubber is there something I possibly did wrong or like could I do something to make it tougher cause it scratches off easier than the testors even after over night as well as remove the rubbery feeling of the model
Hey Jackson Golden, I've heard of matt varnishes toning down the colour of the paint under it also. A possible remedy could be to test out a thin gloss coat first to seal and protect the colour and then apply the Vallejo matt over it to dull down the gloss to your desired shine. As for letting it dry over night varnishes tend to need 2-3 days usually to fully "cure" as opposed to just being dry to touch. Letting your models dry for 2-3 days could provide a difference in feel and Testors is technically a lacquer as compared to a varnish. Lacquers tend to be more durable in general due to their different chemical make up to varnishes. That being said, 2 thin coats of a varnish should be fine to protect your models from general gaming and handling.
hm is that so? I left this vallejo varnish for a few days and it still felt kind of tacky feeling to me is that just normal with vallejo varnishes?
Great video. Thank you for making kt. What did you use to thin down the matte varnish? Was it just water?
Have you got any answer? I had the same question
Hey Miniac, I stumbled across this video looking for a way to protect thin, fragile parts on a tabletop miniature that was 3d printed using PLA+. Is varnish used to strengthen small pieces or would something else offer better protection?
Also, that miniature you're using as an example; what is it? And can I buy one without purchasing an entire army?
Thank you for this!
Do you paint metallics colors after varnish ? I think varnish affects the metallic shin
To be honest, I don't varnish much of any of models, so to answer your question, no. I think if I wanted to return the shine though, I'd simply apply a little satin varnish over the metallic bits. The metallic pigments are still there, it's just their shine is hidden by the matte coat, so a little satin should bring them out again. Thanks for watching!
Was wondering the same so you first hit it with a matte varnish and then paint over the metals separately?
Thanks for the video, good stuff
when you water the varnish down, do you just use normal water?
Einnn yes, but you can use distilled if you're concerned.
Hey I want to use vallejo matte varnish anyone know the dillotion ration??
Couldn't find you on Instagram?
I never water down my matte varnish :P
But I am very careful with how I apply it.
Noob miniature painter here. Does anyone know why "pros/experienced" painters talk about mixing coats of Gloss and Matt varnish instead of using Satin? Isn't the final effect the same but with the simplicity of only using one product? And if not, what's the difference? I read that using Matt over Gloss never achieved a full matt effect and it's closer to a satin finish. I have finished my first couple of minis and i'm really confused about this last varnishing step...
In regards to mixing, there's not much difference. If you already have gloss and matte, you simply don't have to buy satin unless you really need the convenience.
My liquitex matte varnish bottle says "Do not thin with water." Are they saying this because they want me to buy the air brush thinner?
Ken Cunningham I have no idea
question. is satin and semi-gloss the same?
Genma Shiranui in order: gloss-semi gloss-satin-matte-flat
I like matte and satin
Instead of varnish wat we can use
I've heard of people using watered down mod podge but I wouldn't want to risk it
Great video. I have always been worried about varnishing because the only time I ever did it, I turned my entire painted mini into a high gloss reflection beast.
Have you experimented with matte varnish and then brushed gloss over it? The reason I ask is because I have recently finished a Nurgle force and brushed on some Citadel 'Ardcoat in places to give the guts and pus a nice shine. I want to varnish them to protect the finish as they are a gaming army, but would like to brush the gloss finish back on if I lose it, as I really like the effect it adds.
+Brendan Dougherty This is definitely something you can do. Seal it all with a matte varnish and then apply your gloss to areas you want to look wet and gooey.
I love stain not to glossy nor matt
I miss this old intro.
quick question...have you ever confused your beverage with the cub you wash your brushes in? :P
Thanks for the guide!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! URGENT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I used a citadel gloss varnish on my ultramarine, but when I painted the varnish on it eroded the dry painted blue I used!!!
!!!!!!!!Please advise!!!!!!!
airbrush next time (an airbrush setup can be had for very little in most places of the world now)
Sadly if you are drybrushing it will often mean very little medium is sticking the pigment to the model and makes it very fragile if you are going for a good soft drybrush. Airbrushing or spraying varnish will solve your issue.
This said, make sure that the drybrushing has cured first. Give it a day before trying to varnish if you are doing it by hand. Paint being dry to the touch doesn't mean that it is cured.