1:350 USS Enterprise Refit By Polar Lights Updated Build Series Pt 10
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- This video shows an overview of the aztec masking set from Mask Design which I'm using for my Polar Lights 1:350 Enterprise Refit model. Followed with how to prep the masks for application and finishing with how to spray the McKensie lacquer based iridescent paints on the model. Special thanks to Chuck Brooks, Jake Demko and Gary at Mask Design for their help with working with the masking set.
Links: Mask Design: www.trekmodeler-electronics.com/mask-design-templates
McKensie Iridescent Paints: www.mckenziesp.com/4-Ounce-C3445.aspx
I just heard about you passing my good friend and I truly want to say God bless you and yours and truly truly bless you and yours for you will be greatly missed❤❤❤❤
Whew! That takes some serious patience but man, it looks incredible!! Excellent seeing how this process is done. So worth it in the end!
The Mask Design masks are just awesome. Got the 1/537 refit set and Gary’s after sale service is 2nd to none.
Really appreciate your meticulous attention to the application.
The smooth finish you achieve, eliminating all of that texture, is what puts your work above all others, Boyd. Whenever there is texture on these models it totally destroys the scale. Much like when the marking light domes are too large. Thank you for all the tips to getting such an even finish that's so beautifully subtle, without the colors being too heavy or bold.
Unfortunately we can't scale down the texture of the paint to the smaller subjects. I do try my best to smooth things out as best as I can.
Hey Boyd…what a fantastic tutorial you are doing. Thanks so much for this series of videos. I am learning much. ❤
Hi Boyd,
I've worked in the sign biz, and there's a few types of vinyl and transfer tape. Transfer tapes usually come high-tac, medium tac, and low tac. Vinyl comes in (long life/permanent adhesive) and economy vinyl, which is not as bomb proof but they are Permanent Adhesive Vinyls.
I think I'd recommend the medium-tac transfer tape and something called Gerber Mask (it also comes in different brand names). This is a type of vinyl that's easy to peel back. It's used in the sign biz as a mask only for painting or irradicating colored awnings.
Basically, you'll have the panels or aztec patterns that have been pre-cut on the masking vinyl, then go ahead and apply the pre-mask. You should use a slightly flexible hand-held squeegee that should come along in the pre-mask box.
Helpful hint: keep a small sponge nearby in a bowl of water. Take the sponge from the water and squeeze it really good to get most of the water out of it. Gently move the sponge over the transfer tape, but DON'T soak it... just move it around gently. This will make for a very easy removal of the transfer tape.
Naturally, you'll be removing the masking. Repeat this process for all the "pie" sections and the rest of the model.
If you want to get really bold, you can do the saucer sections in one fell swoop (or 2... or 4)
Just a word to the wise!
Cheers!
Happy Modeling!
Doug S.
PS: Of course, you won't be using the sponge on the clear plastic pre-mask 🙂
Used Mask Design for the 1000 Snw Enterprise, can't say enough on how good it was. No bleeding. I messed up and had to order some replacement for a few sheets, was quite fast with reply to email and fast shopping.
Quite a pain to weed the masks( alot of sheets!) but that's comes with the territory.
He also has UA-cam videos showing you how to use all of his masks in detail.
Also used lacquer paints and had no problem with the black masks
This is the masks I have for my refit too it's the best one out there for sure. 😃
Boyd, once again a stellar tutorial. I used the Mask Design system on my first Refit and had great results. I do have a couple comments however. First, don't discard those large pieces of mask (black, blue or grey) that are unused after cutting out the pattern you want. They come in handy just in case you have to make a replacement mask if something happens to the original. Second, it took me the better part of a year to complete the aztec painting. By the time I got to the end, the transfer film/tape began to "curl" and did not remain flat. This rendered it almost impossible to use, so on my next one I'm making every effort to complete the process in less time than before. Thirdly, I found that on the nacelles it was very difficult to properly register or align the various sections of masking. I could be wrong but I think this may be due to the an increase of the surface area from filling with putty and painting. Lastly, the first sections of aztec painting I did was the lightning bolt pattern on the nacelle pylons. It was so satisfying to see the colors come together and it was relatively easy to do for the beginner, in my case.
Amazing Boyd. You are such a great guide. Thank you!
Where are you Boyd? Waiting for part 11 of this build. I hope all is well with you!
Boyd looks awesome like the new masks very tedious job first section looks cool looking forward on the updates have a great night.
Thanks Ken, weeks of masking and painting ahead but I don't mind. It's worth it in the end.
I used a mask set that blew right off when I’d go to paint-even with a low psi setting on my airbrush. I contacted the seller twice and didn’t get a response. I then spent about 4 months making my own mask set. (If the Google groups were still around you could see my process.) It seems like the Mask Design set is the way to go.
Loving the series. Can’t wait for the next episode. Great work, Boyd!
"Pretty Sweet" comment after Nason wax remover. - yes - no sh*t. Boyd. Your build series are so awesome.
Thank you for your detailed descriptions of things Boyd. Really great information.
I still have Walker Aztec Photo-etched templates somewhere in my stash.
I have never heard of that templates. Any information on it?
That is a tremendous amount of detail, Boyd. Amazing.
Really nice demonstration on how to apply the Aztec design on the hull!
As always, a very thorough walk-through video.
About the slight stair-step edge build up from the masking, Ian Lawrence awhile back talked about using a white Staedtler technical eraser to rubdown the edges (almost a type of micro sanding if you will) that doesn't take off the pearlescent paint layer, but does knock down the "edge" or "step. Not sure if you tried that, but if you do give that a test, I would love to see/hear about what results that yields for you.
The tip about the wax-grease remover is one I will be looking into and will no doubt use at various stages in my build(s). Thanks.
What I was trying to explain is the Lacquer based paints can be sprayed on so lightly, the hard edge from the masks doesn't happen. That and the fact that the lacquer paint is the closest thing to the original which is why I use it for this model. With the Pearl X powder and clear mix or the other water based, it ends up being thicker on the surface and you get the edges. It's because the water based takes more coats to get the same rich color and it doesn't melt into the surface as solvent based paint does. The Pearl X powder mixed with clear is pretty thick too and the same thing happens with that.
This is the first I ever heard you mention about the wax and grease remover...pretty cool though, going to get some to add to my supply stash. Thanks for posting and sharing Boyd much appreciated.
Superb video. I intend to use MaskDesign's masks for my one too. Another option with the paints is to get the pigments from McKenzie's. You then mix it with a lacquer clear. Th. ey do post the pigments to the UK and overseas. I know that because I bought a set.
As always thank you sir for the great vids
I've just finished replaying all 10 parts and making notes for my future build. First refit build was right after seeing ST-WOK in the theater in 1982. Lit it with xmas tree lights and did the nav lights with a 555 chip. I second the request for the vinyl tape you're using. Thanks for the time you're spending with this build. It's sure going to help me. Just found out that Nason 441-05 silicon wax remover - 1 gal, has been replaced by: Axalta VS1000 Surface Cleaning Solvent
Do a google search for vinyl masking tape and it will pop up. Look for the teal green color like mine. They have several mixed sizes with the sets.
@@TrekWorks Thanks Boyd!
I use the grey Oramask 810 material and transfer sheets for my 1/1400 Galaxy Class mask sets, fantastic material. Transferring large areas of pre-weeded masks with transfer tape is DEFINITELY the way to go. It turned the "Generations" 4 colour paint job from a month-long process to something that takes a few days at the most!
It looks like some of the masks made from the light gray material have shrunk a bit as evidenced by the amount of white backing paper showing through the cuts. I've seen the same thing happen with the Orbital Drydock masks made from the same material. Once those masks are cut they have a definite shelf life before they shrink too much.
Another way to remove the little adhesive boogers that get left behind is to dab at them with a small piece of masking tape.
It was late summer here in Texas when the masks shipped from Canada and it took a couple weeks for them to arrive. I have no doubt they were roasting in a hot truck for days. Didn't affect them though as they are working just fine.
You know, I really think this masking is the step that will determine whether you'll survive building this ship or going -- well, you know!
I don't even think the gluing or electronics are the hardest part.
Heck, even the painting seems less tedious and involved!
Yep, this model is a months long project if one decides to go all out with the goodies.
Excellent tutorial!
Excellent tutorial, Boyd!
Hey Boyd, loving the build. Thanks very much for guidance. I purchased a set of aztec masks from Orbital Drydock that are now waiting till I start my re-fit project following your last build series. Are you no longer a fan of OD and if so what was the problem with the masks? Andy from Bolton, England.
Gary at Mask Design sent me this set of masks to try. The orbital masks are fine as well but their availability is spotty at best.
@@TrekWorks Many thanks Boyd.
Boyd love the videos… when is the next one in the series?
Will be updating soon.
This is a great video. As a professional painter (not with a brush or roller or dressed in white). I can enjoy watching paint. And even drying.
I was wondering with your changing into using craft paints if you were going to change the product of what you would use as far as the iridescents. Good to know no changes.
Those mask design set looks good. I already have a couple sets of Orbital Drydocks for mine. It’s doesn’t look like much difference other then different types of adhesion, for me the big difference is Mask Design has both the name and registry for the top and bottom of the saucer. Im painting my registry but the orbital Drydock only has the upper registry number. Bummer. At least the method of applying mask designs and orbital drydock looks to be the same.
The new fan tail design looks cool. I went back last night and rewatched TMP and yup is see what your talking about of the arrow look. Im just going have to do my best interpretation of it.
Again as a painter by trade. I total agree with having wax and grease remover. I use it daily at work. There are hundreds of brands. It’s really all the same. I also use tack rags after a wax and degrease. It’s also excellent for removing glue residue from tapes and sticky glue. It’s a safe product to use. That might be something you can use for those bits of masking that’s on your fingers. Keep a small cup where you can dip your fingers in to release the masks.
Again great video.
Thanks fellow painter, it's a more complex trade than a lot of folks realize.
I would/will try a small container with Isopropyl Alcohol to put fingers in to remove stuck on vinyl when weeding. There is 70, 91 or 100% mix or make a custom strength that achieves the purpose.
To have a more effective solution add a small amount of acetone. This would be similar to the ingredients found in Low Voc Surface Cleaner. As you are aware, acetone neutralizes the vinyl adhesive well but should not be used on lacquer paints without reducing.
The other option is to have a stickier surface like your 3D printer foam with, for example, double sided tape that would hold the vinyl clingon, allowing the assaulted digit a way of escape.
I have the full Mask Design set and the painting guide from TrekModeler. I believe the best outcomes are achieved using these products. Communicated with both and found them to be professional with a passion for the subject.
For the iridescent colors I am using, Daler Rowney, 'Shimmering Colours', Acrylic Ink.
Thank you, Boyd for your tutorials. They are as always informative and entertaining.
What is your opinion on painting the multi-colored Aztecs over a base of either Tamiya or Mr. Hobby pearl white? Also love the tips on the nuances of the masking process, I am going to use the mask designs set as well. Also I would like to recommend trying out the Tamiya decal scissors if you have not already. As for the first large Aztec, you may see what you stated, but all i see is E.T. when the kid screams.
I've seen Refit's painted with a pearl white hull color. It looks good but it's not accurate. In the end it's your model so build it how you want to.
Re. Weeding the little “rook” guys from the aztec masks - I had a thought while watching. Might it help if you start picking them from the top (their “head”)? Then those tricky little squares might not get left behind quite so often, and once the “heads” are lifted, then switch to weeding them from the bottom. Either way, a great and inspiring tutorial vid! It makes me think that I might be able to handle doing aztec masking at some point 😁
Hi like you I have both Orbital Dry Dock sets of masks as well as Mask Design masks when it comes to painting the iridescent colours I use both sets it gives me more options ,next the aztec pie wedges I always keep some discarded aztecs to one side on grease proof paper just in case of a mistake that might be made , Tamiya 1000 white primer is all the paint you need . Bridge section in my opinion is way to small needs to be made bigger through "sectioning" every one seems to raise this section for lighting that's not for me I would rather section it wider & longer to get the lighted part to shine on the registery .
Have you used the Aztek Dummy masks before Boyd? I have a set of those and don't know if I should get the Mask Design ones instead. Thanks for this series! Been watching in part with a couple other builders doing this.
The mask design set has a few extra details and some slightly corrected for accuracy.
That vinyl tape for doing curves looks great! I’ve used the Tamiya white vinyl ones but they do leave a residue.
Do you have a link for the ones you bought?
Do a google search for vinyl masking tape and it will pop up. Look for the teal green color like mine. They have several mixed sizes with the sets.
This is an actual Aztec pattern. A loose translation is An Enterprising Journey.
Really? That's pretty cool :)
@@TrekWorks Yes it is. I knew the translator. Unfortunately he passed last year.
Hi. Boyd. Question. you placed the first mask away from the rear of the saucer. Is that where the first mask goes down, or does it matter which panel we start at. ? And Thank you for such a helpful series.
You can start any panel.
Hey Boyd, hope you are well. Are there going to be any more updates coming down the line for this build or have you moved on now? Also, further to the HDA modelworx sensor band decals, I can find them on the website - did they not go into production after all, and if not can you suggest any other suppliers of these decals?
Cheers Boyd and all the best from Andy in Bolton, England.
Catching up a bit. Slowly getting into my build of the 1/350 enterprise. This series has been great. A question, do you still recommend using adhesion promoter as I recall from the previous 24 part series? Preparing to prime the exterior saucer section, 2 coats grey and topped by 1 coat white.
This is incredible information.. thanks for sharing! I'm curious.. you said that you were going to show how to do the lights on the sides of the docking ring. Did I miss that part somehow or have you not gotten to it.
Thanks for sharing all the great tips!
I have yet to see the revised set that fixes the angled panels at the aft end of the nacelles. Earlier versions of this set, those panels were not parallel to the aft angle of the nacelles. Can you show that here please?
I'll show those masks when I get to working on the engines.
Great job, Boyd. Will you be updating the refit paint guide?
Are the x McKenzie paints Gloss, Semi Gloss( satin ) or matt .
They are a satin finish with a metallic sheen.
Loving this series. Any plans on continuing the build? I know you are doing the Nautilus also.
Do you have any other suggestions instead of the nason 441-05 wax remover? Apparently it isn't available locally and the only two places that I found it online say that it cannot be shipped.
Hi Boyd what size airbrush needle did you use on the Aztecs ?
The standard needle size on the Iwata Eclipse HP and spraying at 20 psi. Just high enough without any splattering.
The Nason VS 1000 is only available in 1 gallon volume but the VS 1500 is available in a quart size. Is this acceptable to use? Also is it safe for Pearlx paints?
Love these updates! Could you provide a link to that great thin vinyl tape you used? I think it was 1mm?
Is it ok to quick dry with a hairdryer after you mist the lacquer thinner on top of the interference paint? Also right after wiping it down with the residue remover?
Yep that won't cause a problem.
Hi Boyd I have yellow Aztecs are they solvent based
The problem with the nice aftermarket goodies is that the kits itself are already a bit pricy and additionally the international shipping costs with criminal few and taxes (ea to germany) make it uneffortable. Lightning boards, photo etch, special colors, aztec sets, masks, interior... taxes and shipping for every single item.. makes no sense, esp if one doesn't know if all will be messed up or turn out well.
Yes, it's unfortunate that like everything, the costs of this hobby are going up too.
Mask Design? Orbital Drydock?
I bought the Aztek Dummy mask set. Are they inferior? Do I need to buy different masks?
Is this project done, or has it just been abandoned? I see no updates since 11 months ago.
Patience Boyd those masks are really sticky and annoying, on my third refit build and want it the best, and mask design masks are the most accurate and fiddley but the best
👍🏻
Which 4 do you order?
A better camera POV would have helped while you were removing the mask material, otherwise, a good video.