The collar with the piston ring has a smaller face than thrust bearing so you will loose oil pressure on the thrust bearing. Its needs to be 14mm to match the thrust washer.
I’ve just bought a K04 F23T brand new from Alibaba, and when I got it out of the box it had slight in and out play, so I took both sides off the CHRA cartridge, and tightened the compressor nut slightly and it took the in and out play away, but now it kinda feels like the shaft won’t spin as well as it did when I first unboxed it. I mean it spins just as much as how your K04 does in the video, but I swear before i pulled it apart it spun a little more free than it does now. Do you think this will be a problem? I’m hoping it won’t be. I stripped it down again afterwards and loosened the compressor wheel nut and I was able to get it to spin very nicely but then it’s too loose and the in and out play is there again. What do I do? It’s almost like there’s a sweet spot of how tight the nut should be, to let it spin better, but at the same time get rid of the in and out play. I’m stumped to be honest, I don’t know where to go from here hey. I was half tempted to send the CHRA cartridge back and swap it out for a replacement, but something is telling me it’s fine and I’m just overthinking it. On the other hand, I could probably run it the way it is and if it craps itself I can just rebuild it like you did this one 😂 Complete brand new balanced CHRA cartridges are cheap as chips aswell
What you aren’t considering is the plate behind the compressor wheel isn’t compressed into place until the compressor housing is bolted on. Without it bolted on it can spin poorly because the plate isn’t straight until it’s mounted. It can also show shaft plate that isn’t there when installed because the thrust bearing isn’t being retained by the plate until the compressor housing is bolted on. It would be a good time to check to see if the thrust bearing collar and spacer they used was upgraded.
@ all the parts that are internal are literally identical to all the parts and pieces in this video, so I’m unsure if that’s considered upgraded parts or stock standard. It pretty well built, when I put it all back together I had a difficult time putting the little bearing that had the oil seal that sits behind the compressor back seal plate, it just wouldn’t go on smoothly, I lined up the gap it the oil ring to be at the top of the bearing when I tried to massage it into place, I also doused the whole thing in fresh engine oil to get it going and it just wouldn’t go in. I eventually got it in but now that bearing doesn’t spin as freely as it did before so I’m putting my money on the fact that the resistance is coming from that part of the compressor back plate, but once it’s all put together and I’ve tightened the compressor housing to the CHRA it spins far better than when it’s half assembled, there’s definitely still a minuscule amount of resistance but I think it will find its way to spinning freely once the turbo has been run in, I’m just hoping I didn’t damage the oil rings ability to seal properly because if there’s a problem with sealing I will get oil seepage into my compressor housing and compressor wheel. What sucks the most about K04’s of my type is that I can’t look at the compressor wheel from the outside of the turbo, the compressor side is a sealed unit cos this K04 is for a Mk6 GTI. Once I install the K04 and run it for a little while I will pull the intake off and stick a borescope down into the turbo inlet and see if I can have a look at the compressor wheel and try to find any signs of oil seepage, fingers crossed it’s all good though
That's some super precision work! In my opinion, that's more precision and closer tolerances than any other part of the engine. Nice work!👍
Thanks. I have several more videos in the making. I’m glad you are tuned in.
The collar with the piston ring has a smaller face than thrust bearing so you will loose oil pressure on the thrust bearing. Its needs to be 14mm to match the thrust washer.
I do want to get that part upgraded too. I’m not understanding your oil pressure theory though
I’ve just bought a K04 F23T brand new from Alibaba, and when I got it out of the box it had slight in and out play, so I took both sides off the CHRA cartridge, and tightened the compressor nut slightly and it took the in and out play away, but now it kinda feels like the shaft won’t spin as well as it did when I first unboxed it. I mean it spins just as much as how your K04 does in the video, but I swear before i pulled it apart it spun a little more free than it does now. Do you think this will be a problem? I’m hoping it won’t be. I stripped it down again afterwards and loosened the compressor wheel nut and I was able to get it to spin very nicely but then it’s too loose and the in and out play is there again. What do I do? It’s almost like there’s a sweet spot of how tight the nut should be, to let it spin better, but at the same time get rid of the in and out play. I’m stumped to be honest, I don’t know where to go from here hey. I was half tempted to send the CHRA cartridge back and swap it out for a replacement, but something is telling me it’s fine and I’m just overthinking it. On the other hand, I could probably run it the way it is and if it craps itself I can just rebuild it like you did this one 😂 Complete brand new balanced CHRA cartridges are cheap as chips aswell
What you aren’t considering is the plate behind the compressor wheel isn’t compressed into place until the compressor housing is bolted on. Without it bolted on it can spin poorly because the plate isn’t straight until it’s mounted. It can also show shaft plate that isn’t there when installed because the thrust bearing isn’t being retained by the plate until the compressor housing is bolted on. It would be a good time to check to see if the thrust bearing collar and spacer they used was upgraded.
@ all the parts that are internal are literally identical to all the parts and pieces in this video, so I’m unsure if that’s considered upgraded parts or stock standard. It pretty well built, when I put it all back together I had a difficult time putting the little bearing that had the oil seal that sits behind the compressor back seal plate, it just wouldn’t go on smoothly, I lined up the gap it the oil ring to be at the top of the bearing when I tried to massage it into place, I also doused the whole thing in fresh engine oil to get it going and it just wouldn’t go in. I eventually got it in but now that bearing doesn’t spin as freely as it did before so I’m putting my money on the fact that the resistance is coming from that part of the compressor back plate, but once it’s all put together and I’ve tightened the compressor housing to the CHRA it spins far better than when it’s half assembled, there’s definitely still a minuscule amount of resistance but I think it will find its way to spinning freely once the turbo has been run in, I’m just hoping I didn’t damage the oil rings ability to seal properly because if there’s a problem with sealing I will get oil seepage into my compressor housing and compressor wheel. What sucks the most about K04’s of my type is that I can’t look at the compressor wheel from the outside of the turbo, the compressor side is a sealed unit cos this K04 is for a Mk6 GTI. Once I install the K04 and run it for a little while I will pull the intake off and stick a borescope down into the turbo inlet and see if I can have a look at the compressor wheel and try to find any signs of oil seepage, fingers crossed it’s all good though
@ and does a K03 compressor wheel back plate fit a k04? Cos if it does I’ll just take the compressor plate off my old K03 and put it on this K04
I can't get the cartridge out of the exsaust manifold of the 2.0 b7
Heat it up
@turbolabamerica thank you! Man I was confused! This was my first turbo rebuild, thank for all the content brother!
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