Build a CUSTOM Pedal Power Supply Kit | Anasounds FX Power Source
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 гру 2020
- Ever wished you could customise the EXACT number and voltage of outputs on your pedal power supply? Why not build your own! Anasounds FX Power Source is an ever expandable modular power supply allowing you to choose how much power you need.
Product page - anasounds.com/fx-power-source/
Assembly Instructions - anasounds.com/build-your-fx-p...
Thanks to Anasounds for funding this video's creation.
#anasounds #powersupply #diy
More from CSGuitars:
Gain access to exclusive content at: / csguitars
Join CSGuitars Discord - / discord
Buy CSGuitars Merchandise - www.csguitars.co.uk/store
Website - www.csguitars.co.uk
Contact - colin@csguitars.co.uk
____________________________________________________________________
Description contains affiliate links. Purchasing using one of these links will generate a small commission for CSGuitars at no additional cost to you.
Affiliate Links:
Thomann - www.thomann.de/gb/index.html?...
Sweetwater - imp.i114863.net/2mGGg
Reverb - reverb.grsm.io/csguitars
Title graphics and logo by:
www.studiosmithdesign.co.uk/
Join the discussion at:
Facebook - / csguitars
Instagram - / csguitars
Twitter - / csg_scotland
Music available at:
Amazon: amzn.to/2HUdXgV
iTunes: apple.co/2JvpCjp
Google Play: bit.ly/2KgSzkl
Or stream on Spotify: spoti.fi/2HuYPTP
____________________________________________________________________
Ever wished you could customise the EXACT number and voltage of outputs on your pedal power supply? Why not build your own! Anasounds FX Power Source is an ever expandable modular power supply allowing you to choose how much power you need.
Product page - anasounds.com/fx-power-source/
Assembly Instructions - anasounds.com/build-your-fx-power-source-power-supply/
Thanks to Anasounds for funding this video's creation.
#anasounds #powersupply #diy
More from CSGuitars:
Gain access to exclusive content at: www.patreon.com/csguitars
Join CSGuitars Discord - discord.gg/d7b6MY8
Buy CSGuitars Merchandise - www.csguitars.co.uk/store
Website - www.csguitars.co.uk
Contact - colin@csguitars.co.uk
I'm interested with just battery pedalboard. Any idea of anything decent for lithium power supply?
I've been using a Mission Engineering 529 for pretty much everything until I got these Anasounds ones. You might like what it can do if you want to power from a battery pack.
Femder makes pedal cases with them direct wired in the case. They also make custom ones its pretty cheap to. So thx but no thanks ill stick with the pro’s
Yaay, a Boss HM-2 - bought mine in the early 80's and it was the 3 millionth unit ever made and came with a brass plaque, which I have on my key to this day.
that's perfect to pair with 3d-printing
Broooo, that’s a great idea
@@snowlites too bad they not selling in my country would be nice to have those files in the public domain
Someone did it :D
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4639455
@@Palf good) honestly, I thought about parametric design with publishing it as .f3d, so it will fit every possible configuration
This video is 100% what we needed to show the benefit of the FX Power Source! Thanks a lot Colin :D
You are very good to transmit your experience for this DIY build!
I'm very glad I was able to represent such an excellent product in this way. I look forward to all the ways I'll be able to use this to help make more videos.
It’s all good DIY gear coming from you Alex, well done. And with a great follow up video from Colin.
@@jaytee8188 thanks a lot :)
After years of building pedals, I started to revisit this idea just a few days ago. Colin, between the Metal Zones, In Flames-esque riffs and building power supplies, it's like you've ransacked my brain.
I love it when Dinosaur and Math jokes come together.
I watched this video the day it came out, and just bought it because of this video 4 months later.
Definitely worth it. It was a blast to build. Cheers, Colin.
"now I can power all my pedals!"
*Indecipherable overringing notes echoing for 45 seconds each"
Of course it bears repeating that Colin has said a limited number of pedals is the way to go - getting the tone basically all there just from the amp is where it's at.
These videos are so much fun and it’s super sick that companies offer these types of products. Sick video Dude! I still need to order that OD pedal. Cheers man.
Right as I was looking for a power supply for my growing pedalboard. Great timing!
Thanks Colin, another great video :)
Very comprehensive deliberation
Colin always impresses me
This modular supply in kit is interesting ! I will say to future builders , newer do this ; space is asking to bend those big Elco's , don't let them to touch PCB . cos they could turn hot and over the time , burn it ! Don't weld transistor on a surface ! Fasten them with a small bolt , plus , will be good to put a small Alu '' U '' profile over metal surface and bolt it all together for better heat sinking .
Great video.
May the algorithm be ever in your favour!
I'm about to start a project in the new year building a pedalboard only using DIY pedal kits. This will be a perfect way to power them while keeping with the theme, cheers for putting me onto it!
Love this idea. Good luck with the project.
thats quality mate! defo getting it
Wow that’s cool
Lovely
I like to make what I call "power distribution modules". These are little plastic boxes with multiple paralleled output jacks, an indicator LED, and a smoothing cap added. As a *passive* "power brick" this is clearly *much less* than is needed, so think of it as a "satellite campus" of your power supply. I run a single cable from my power brick out to the distribution box, keeping in mind the polarity and total current draw of all pedals connected to it, and short cables from the module to the individual pedals. I regularly have to caution folks about daisy-chaining pedals, and the risks of drawing too much current, or heterodyning of multiple digital pedals sharing the same power line. HOWEVER, many players have a surfeit of lower-current analog pedals on their board, and a distribution module can allow neater cabling for such pedals, by having short custom-length cables to pedals out on the periphery of the board, and being "modular". A 2nd and 3rd such module, connected to individual outputs on the power brick, can provide convenience.
That said, the Anasounds system is smart, flexible, expandable, and follows best design practice. The only misgiving I have is that it assumes one central location, and the many lengthy cables required to reach from that location to all points on a potentially cluttered and large board. My own approach is predicated on having a LOT of small, lower-current analog pedals, where running 12" (and longer) cables everywhere is cumbersome. I suppose I should also note that I make my own connecting cables.
You may want to take a look at this video I made - ua-cam.com/video/xszB3pAGrdw/v-deo.html -, illustrating how to remotely switch e-switched pedals like those from Boss. The advantage of this approach is that the pedal itself can be situated anywhere, with a bank of secondary bypass switches positioned up front. Since the cable to the secondary switch does not carry audio, one can use thinner unshielded wires, reducing both the bulk and cost of running shielded cables with 1/4" plugs and jacks to and from a switcher. You can have a row of such pedals off in the remote corner of your board, connected by short compact patch cables, reducing overall capacitance issues.not to mention the overall weight of the pedalboard.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about. It takes a +12VDC input, provide a +12V-thru jack, and down-regulates the +12V to four individually-regulated +9V@100ma outputs. Not a substitute for a decent power brick, but a handy adjunct. i.imgur.com/XQVxNYM.jpg
quick! take my money!
Lovely stuff. Another form of adult Lego.
I'd argue that Lego is still adult Lego
@@ScienceofLoud I agree, my wording "another form" wasn't encompassing enough.
Very good video, I love what you do 🎸
Thank you!
Not gonna lie...that’s frickin awesome
Hey Colin. Love your videos, been watching for years, but I feel I should chime in on this one.
This looks neat, but I think you mistakenly misrepresented a few portions of the circuitry. While individually regulated, the positive rails are not isolated as you claim. Isolation requires conversion to another medium and no electrical connection. Without isolation, they will suffer the same noise and ground loops of every other non-isolsted power supply. Filtration components can help improve some issues in some cases, but it is not a magic bullet in the absence of true isolation. I feel this is very important to mention, as it means this power supply will not solve most pedal noise issues. Running several 780X chips off a common 24v rail with a few filtration capacitors is not isolation, and I feel claiming otherwise is a bit misleading.
You also mentioned that inclusion of isolation transformers results in introducing 50/60 cycle hum into the signal. While inclusion of mains AC in the power supply can cause issues, you don't need mains AC in your pedal power supply to utilize isolation transformers. For example, the MXR ISO brick uses 18v DC from an external power brick to create it's own high frequency AC circuit that's far less noisy and more controlled than mains. The higher the frequency an AC source is, the more effective a transformer becomes. Stable, lower voltage, higher frequency AC lets it use substantially smaller, less expensive, and more effective transformers. And most importantly, the outputs can be incredibly quit and completely isolated. I personally find this tech fascinating, and I think your viewers too.
Anyways, love the videos. Keep em coming!
Perhaps I didn't detail what I was saying effectively enough:
Isolation: What I mean is that the 9V isn't travelling board to board, the 9V (or 12V/18V) are generated per board and aren't common to all the sockets. So each board's 9V is 'isolated' from the others. Perhaps a poor choice of word in context: 24V travels common through all, 9V don't.
50/60CH: You are making the same point I was regarding the 24V power brick being an external to this unit, by having the AC/DC conversion physically distanced from the pedals and the power distribution to them it eliminates hum. I was pointing out that transformers to isolate ground mean that AC will be present within the unit as transformers can't pass DC. If you want isolated grounds, you need to have AC near the outputs.
@@ScienceofLoud Thanks for the response. I get what you mean. I didn't assume it was an intentional, as you mentioned the grounds weren't isolated. I assumed it was just an oversight. "Independently regulated" might be a better way to put it. I wasted a lot of money over the years on power supplies that misused the word isolated (such as "isolated protection") before I dug deep into PSU design.
Regarding AC within the PSU itself, it is possible to have AC in proximity without interference through proper design. Using the MXR ISO brick as an example again, it's transformers are perpendicular to the DC converter boards, with a complete ground plane barrier in-between. Wall ac power is nasty, but generating your own hi-frequwncy AC removes many of these problems.
Didn't mean this to come off as an attack. I thought the video was excellent, aside from those 2 minor knitpicks. I love the more technical videos, and over the years you have answered many of my TATAs. If I can ever be of assistance, such as for custom PCB design, don't hesitate to reach out 😄
Wow this was good
Now i can make DIY a power.suply
I wonder if there is a humm or hiss sound thank you for these tips cheers
Not handy enough for this, but feeding the almighty algorithm to keep you out there! 😊👍
If I still had any pedals left I might grab one of those, this looks fantastic. That I'm waiting for my new and flashy soldering iron to arrive doesn't exactly make things better ;) The urge to solder stuff is strong ATM
ALL the POWER!!!!
Some of the cold solder joints
Nice bro . .
Cool
This is a pretty handy thing to have on the market, the possibilities for outrageous pedalboards is unlimited! #discordnotificationgang
I'm excited to see what expansive sonic monstrosities people make with it. For mine, I think I may strip it back to having only a small number of essential outputs for pedal demo purposes.
notification gang assemble!
@@ScienceofLoud yeah definitely. And the cable management would be on point too!
wow, I need this to power my massive 2 pedal collection...
(I suppose I could also power my tuner, so make that 3 items!)
joking aside, it's pretty cool. I honestly had to rewind a bit when you said 60 pedals, damn that's a lot of pedals!!
hey mate I love your videos a lot, they helped me so much about all technical stuff for guitar and etc. just wondering can you check out sustainiac pickups and my question is: is it possible to add a single coil to the empty space of the sustainiac pick-up because as you probably know sustainiac pick-ups are humbucker but half empty.
Will definitely keep this in mind if I ever get pedals 😢
I liked the old hair but the new hairstyle looks nice and clean. Mine's down to a tiny bit below my chin for the first time. I don't think I'll trim it for a while even after COVID's gone because I don't like getting my hair cut and also this length is about enough to tuck behind my ear to keep out of my face. Anyways nice hair.
I can live with the 2 18V outputs, but what’s up with the AC one??
Great video! I've been toying with the idea of building a power supply. Would copper tape lining the interior of the pedal block the 50 to 60 cycle hum? Thanks!
Hi, no it wouldn't but the creative thinking process is good.
Mains hum affects your sound in two ways. Firstly it's travelling through the power supply directly and entering your pedal pcb and seeping into your audio as the power goes through its cycle, ie 50/60hz. This needs to be fitted out with components in the chain.
Secondly mains hum is picked up by your guitar or other devices that are plugged into your rig. If you imagine the mains transmitting the hum as radio waves. This is usually blocked by shielded cables and metal enclosures on devices, called Faraday cages. Your wooden guitar body won't block these signals, but lining the control cavity and back of pick guard with a metal foil will.
this is exactly the predicament ive been in this week how are you spying on me colin?
I have eyes everywhere. No one can be trusted.
Electric eye on the sky?
everytime i see one of your videos I cant get your epic accent out of my head lmao
I desperately need that PCB Vice you're using
Anasounds do sell the vice and other tools as well as their pedal and power supply kits. Everything you need in one convenient location.
78xx regulators sometimes can sometimes be noise generators, not the best choice. LM317 with few additional components would be better - a lot quieter, also no need to change regulator to change voltage, just a single resistor or few turns on trimpot. If normal heat-sink is used not just pad on PCB, more current can be drawn from regulator, hence could be used to power more power hungry pedals. Also none of these outputs are isolated from each other, so I would not recommend this.
I did my own design of modular PSU for my board with dual secondary potted transformers soldered on each PCB board module, LM317 regulators, completely isolated from each other (isolated power sources, grounds), quiet and expandable, just add another two output board. I currently use 4 boards (8x 9V outputs).
Colin, I commented on your chorus video, I'm unsure if I should be looking for something simple like an MXR Micro Chorus or something a little more fancy like a JHS Emperor V2 (similar to the pedal you demoed). I really just want the chorus effect but after watching your video I'm intrigued by the possibilities, though a chorus is really what I'm looking for.
hey Colin ive got a bugera 333xl infinum too, im getting some very loud squealing from mine even on the low gain input, makes it hell when I plug in my mxr GT OD even with the mxr noise clamp, ive got good quality cables and its got brand new tubes in it, please help so I can play demon squeal free, cheers
Humm... I need me one of these!
Yes, yes you do!
time to pull out the legos to make an enclosure
I'm surprised you don't need any chassis to protect from external noise. But I guess for power line it's not problematic? Just would want the casing to protect from physical stuff and to avoid touching connections.
Well if you buy a little bit of polycarbonate you can make a case for the power supply, maybe with LEDs to make it cooler
Colin - with the new haircut, you are going to need to update your robot image during the credits!
Moo
What if I have a Strymon that takes 500mA?
wonderful idea. anyone need like 10 ehx 200ma wall warts? the real trick was finding a couple of wall-wart-power strips. The HM-2 is specced for 9VAC. 12v dc overrides the rectifier. I would recommend using a 9v battery clip to a regular 9v supply to fake a 9v battery to operate it as intended.
edit: solder a 9v battery clip to a 9v input power jack. clip the clip to the clip inside and thread it outside thru the huge gap along the back of the stomp plate. looks like azz but sounds right.
Hi Colin, how are these regulators isolating the 9V line? Do you have any links to where I can read more?
There is an individual regulator for each board. Each board therefore has the voltage isolated from the others.
Links to all Anasounds documentation is in the description and pinned comment.
@@ScienceofLoud I'm just confused about how the regulators isolate the 9V rail? Are they 7809s or are they something fancier?
There is no 9V travelling from board to board.
Each supply board individually regulates the voltage supplied to the pedals, only the 24V passes through.
Colin, I have a question in regards to the HM-2 and 12 volts. I have one and I'd like to know if I could run it off my Strymon Ojai's 12 volt option ( I have the one that can do 9-18 volts). I also have an official Boss 12 volt adapter if the Ojai is not an option.
Some old Boss pedals were designed to run with their ACA supply which was unregulated 9V.
What that means is that it would only deliver 9V for a specific current draw.
The HM-2 draws far less than the required current and the under loaded supply delivers higher than nominal voltage, in this case around 12V.
Boss knew this and wired the pedal to reduce the incoming voltage to the required 9V.
So in answer to your question: first check your pedal is one designed for ACA and if it is then any 12V regulated supply will do the trick to match the voltage of the unregulated ACA.
I mean this is great 👍🏻 BUT I think I will stick with the gigrig generator.
Got to the stage where I'm clicking like before I've seen the entire post lol
Now I just need to learn soldering and buy all the necessary tools
I couldn't find a cheap dc 2 dc step down isolated 9v power supply. I did find power supplies for more than 1 amp which were too big and not that cheap
Hey Colin, can I request a TATA on stacking gain pedals? Especially volume boosting, gain boosting, using an eq, pedal order, etc.
I have a 5150 od and a boss od-3 and would love to learn how to get maximum metal out of them
Is there an option to increase the milliamps? I use a talkbox that consumes 2 whole amps of 18 volt power. If this allowed me to consolidate to one power outlet, I would be very happy.
You'll want to look at Anasounds K+ supplies. They'll do 18V at 2A. You can see one chaining with this DIY unit at the end of the video.
@@ScienceofLoud thank you!
Perfect intonation IS possible. You said it's simply not possible on an instrument with straight frets. Well it IS possible with a compensated nut! Look up String Tech on UA-cam and you will see multiple videos demonstrating this. There is also a small plastic insert that just sits in front of the nut under the strings. Its called the sos (Sound Offset Spacer) So just wanted to let you know that you can say from now on it is possible to get good intonation on a guitar with straight frets.
1. You've commented this on the wrong video.
2. It is impossible even with a compensated nut.
A compensated nut only changes the overall length of each string, it does not change the divisional spacing between frets.
The very presence of frets makes all intonation (no matter how good) an approximation. The only way to achieve true perfect intonation is to have no frets at all.
@@ScienceofLoud 1. I came from your will it shred series and heard you say it wasn't possible.
2. I decided to come to your most recent video so you would see the comment.
3. If your being that picky about what is perfect. Then no matter what shape frets you have, PERFECT intonation is not possible. But perfect TO OUR EARS is possible with the compensated nut. If you still don't want to believe it, then I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree. I still love your videos though and probably always will. :)
Actually pretty cool but the price is still kind of steep for 1) having to build it yourself (I know, it's pretty easy) and 2) Having to come up with your own box.
Problem is I reorganize my board like every month. :D I've built too many cool pedals over the years and experimenting is just so much fun. Very cool project though!
Colin, I'm not a total simpleton. However, whenever I try and solder anything its a fucking disaster. Basically nothing happens aside from everything getting hotter than the sun, my fingers getting burnt then eventually if I'm lucky, my little bit of solder melts and runs away without sticking anything to anything else. I end up just getting really pissed off, twisting the wires together and using blu-tack. Can you give us a simple guide to soldering (including what cheap kit to buy off amazon) so I can at least do basic shit like soldering a wire to a pot.
This is something I've been thinking about doing for a long time.
@@ScienceofLoud Cheers - I just want to be able to do simple things like wire in a switch or pickup without worrying that I'm basically breaking my guitar until I can take it to a pro
There are some great vids out there on UA-cam. As a beginner you are going to really struggle without a few basic tools.
Iron, you can buy a £7.00 iron from Toolz-U-Like. The tip will be far too big, it'll get a lot hotter than what you need for pcb's, Good for fat speaker wires. The tip coating will burn off quickly and the tip disintegrate, especially with lead free solder.
Antek approx. 20watt yellow and a small chisel tip as an extra. The fine point is no good.
0.5-0.7mm solder us going to help. Not the fat stuff in Toolz-U-Like.
If you want to do the right thing, progress from leaded solder asap.
Some Antek tips are designed for this, I've never had to replace mine. Lead free melts at a higher temp, risking damage to components and not flowing sticking.
If you buy the stuff with aprox 3.6% silver and O.6% copper it's not much more difficult to use than lead. If you buy the aprox 0.6% silver and 3.6% copper you'll struggle. It's OK for really hot irons as it needs a lot more heat to melt the copper. Trouble is the good stuff is about 5 times the price but your work will be much better.
You'll have to settle for eco destruction and learn with leaded to start with.
"Only 60?" - Tom Morello
O hai, its GordjiBoi
NOTIFICATION SQUAAAAD
SQUAD!
SQUAAAD
SQUAD
Could you not technically make a guitar pedal that also could power other pedals?
Some low current pedals are capable of delivering the power through to another effect. This is seen quite often on tuners which otherwise would be wasting a power socket for the majority of your set.
Re: Colin's comment above. I've got a Korg tuner with a power though - its and the front right of my board - this is really handy, 'cos no one wants to put their wah, wah on their board, its heavy and cumbersome. But it means I have a convenient tap to power the wah wah when its on the floor next to the board.
Are these kits still available?
nope. looking for an alternative
60 outputs?!!
Actually am not surprised, just battling the whimsical algorithm
Glory be to the Algorithm!
Ah yes, the 60 ports for the 60 Metal Zones.
BTW. if you send me the measurements and a sketch of the layout of the in- and outputs I'd totally be willing to send you a 3D printed enclosure
I wonder why Anasounds have renamed the Ego Driver the "FX Driver" for the US market.
Because another company issued legal action over the 'Ego' part of the name.
@@ScienceofLoud I once got a letter from a lawyer in the US because I owned a domain name which was the name of a carpet cleaning company. The letter was basically an order to cease and desist using it. I said I would for $500 and the paid me. Got me a few new pedals.
probably better than my daisy chain.....but still wont fix the behringer ultra metal/ cheap metalzone clone hum.
DISCORD DING
DISCORD SQUAD!
Word
DING DING
U cut your fucking hair!!!
Fuken a champ looks good keep the content coming.
Just don't touch any capacitors whilst it's powered otherwise you'll get a zap! xD
Never lick the caps, guys.
so you mean this DIY board is pure isolated including each port?
No, watch again.
Each board has its 9V line isolated from the rest.
Grounds are not isolated, but that isn't the big problem everyone makes it out to be. In fact transformer isolated designs (of which this is not) introduce problems this one does not have.
There is no perfect.
@@ScienceofLoud thank you, you should make a comparison to this vs other pedal power supply.
Only 60 outputs???
Hello
Hello
I just found one for 12 dollars on Amazon with 5 plugs
I thought about it. But my board has never had more than 6 pedals on (tuner, OD, wah, delay, phaser, EQ), and these days, it's just a Pod Go and 4 cables.
Well, I mean, these days it's a Pod Go, 1 cable and headphones because shift work, the 'rona and expanding families has kind of put the band on hold for the forseeable future. But when I can be loud, Pod Go and 4 cables.
Not bad 179 bucks U.S
Just buy a TrueTone CS12. Done.
That doesn't exactly fulfil the same purpose as this though. Can the TrueTone be expanded anywhere from 2 to 60 outputs? Can you select the exact arrangement of voltages to specifically suit your pedals?
@@ScienceofLoud Not exactly, but it will provide up to 500 mA and satisfy 95% of the guitar player out there and you don’t have to build it. I like the product , I think it is a good idea. It is limited with only providing up to 200 mA. If you need more than that, then you have to buy another unit.
I'm always perplexed when anyone uses "you don't have to build it" as a point in a product's favour. Building it is the best part!
Me unable to buy a single pedal:
🤔
Got to start somewhere I guess
I'm just not allowed to be buying gear, because my parents tell me to save my maintenance loan for more "useful" things. Guitar stuff doesn't count as useful to them
@@MT_800 I feel you. My parents were exactly the same, they didn't see the value of having hobbies. I just did it anyway and now I make my living doing a job that naturally developed from my main hobby. I would never advise you to ignore your parents, just saying that it's what I did and it paid off
@@MT_800 There's plenty of great free plug-ins that can match top level analogue pedals. Just buy a cheap audio interface, download a DAW and away you go.
@@MT_800 That's why I only started in investing in pedals after I've got a stable income. You will never be having too many pedals and the investment could be a large amount of money.
🙋🏼♂️Hi! I'm the guy that needs 1.2A @ 9V AC. Sorry everyone!
I'm also the guy that would be put off by having to make an enclosure. I'm happy enough in electronics-land, but just don't have the tools, the space or the skills to be making a metal or plastic enclosure.
I need an Scottish / Irish accent
your shirt is wrong. raptor / raptor = 1
The hair.....
Way too expensive. But yeah, good idea and well designed, though...
Since your hair is gone, want to get that hm2 gone as well?$$$$
That '84 MIJ chainsaw is here to stay.
am I the only one who mutes de video and looks away during the "the science...... of loud" part?