This video was my Bible. Just finished my replacement today. Many thanks! For anyone trying to save and re use a headliner, it can be done, but requires a lot of careful review in between steps on this video.
Thank you for the kind words. I'm very happy your installation went well and that the video was helpful! Also, thank you for the tip about the headliner.
@mainejason headliner is riveted onto the front main crossbar, and has to be removed to access the side tension spring. Also, the push rivets at the back ( last cross bar) couldn't be saved, so I used aluminum rivets. However the holes were larger and 3/16 rivets were needed.
First of all, THANK YOU for that awesome video. Nobody has done it better! You are the mentor. You took the fear out of me to attack this job again. Did it about 7 years ago for a customer without instructions. After 14 hours of actual work, using every bad word in the book, walking away and using many cigarettes, I was done. Said never do it again! Now that I own a Z3 that has basically no rear window plastic left ( beautiful TEXAS sun and heat ) and the staples have come undone at the rear to the trunk. Must say a daily driver parked outside with 235000 miles on it, 1999 2.3, mechanically perfect, optically a ratrod. 3rd paint job or what ever is left of it, any paint, some down to bare metal. Love this BMW to much to retire it. Driving it every day puts a smile on my face. Point is now I feel confident because of your video to tackle this job again. Again THANK YOU! Keep up the great work. If you never owned a BMW Z3 you never had a life! I want a Z3 M next.😊
Thank you so much for the kind words - I'm very glad the video gave you the confidence to tackle this job again! There is no doubt it's a daunting task, and I commend you for taking it on 7 years ago - especially with the lack of installation information! Your Z sounds like it has ( and continues ) to serve you well - best of luck on the install. Let me know how it turns out! Thanks again for the comment, and thank you for watching!
Thank you so much for creating and posting this high quality video. I finished my Z3 top replacement yesterday and i don't think i could have done it without this detailed content.
My man. I can't tell you how good this video is. I took the old ratty top off a few years ago and never got the new one back on since this car is not a daily driver, and so it sat. Every now and then I'd build up the motivation and some free time to try and get back at it but was always overwhelmed by the lack of detailed info out there and would invariably give up, since I've all but forgotten how everything came apart at this point. This video and tool list is exactly what I and the rest of the world has been missing this whole time. I'm buying the tools and parts I need today. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and for being so thorough in your explanation and lessons learned. This is a master class in DIY repair.
Gosh, I am so humbled by your very kind words. I am so appreciative of your taking the time to tell me your story, and I'm very happy that the video helped you get after your task. Take your time and don't get frustrated. You will be successful, I'm certain. Thank you again for the wonderful comments, and thanks for watching!
Just finished my installation and I honestly couldn't have done it without your videos your am absolute legend! the people that are saying the new version of the sierra auto tops soft top isn't installable DIY are wrong but it's definitely more of a pain because instead of plastic retainers that you can neatly tuck in you just get flaps of fabric which I just tucked in behind the brackets that the rubber seals go onto, the new top also didn't come with a replacement for the crimp clips that hold the tension cable so I had to reuse the old ones. to add to the challenge the aftermarket top that was already on the car had been installed by someone who didn't know what they were doing and broke the sealing frame, sticking the broken pieces back in with lots of horrible sticky adhesive and not wanting to source a new one I made a neoprene gasket to seal it off, overall a challenging and fun experience but I'm glad it's over
Thanks so much for telling us about your experience! It's too bad the new tops have changed... I wonder why they did that? Your extra tips and tricks will most certainly be invaluable to anyone doing this project! Great job persevering and getting the job done! It is a big project, for sure, but the reward for accomplishment is great indeed! Thank you for your great comment!
Thank you for this great tutorial ! I bought a Z3 that had its top removed by the previous owner and was never replaced This was a massive help and I was able to do it all by myself in one weekend, couldn’t have done it without this video !
I found this video last week and after watching it twice , I decided to tackle this job on my '98 Z3. I already owned most of the tools but I did order the pneumatic stapler(wow, that thing is fun!) I bought my top, started the removal process on Friday afternoon, and am finished on Sunday morning! This video was extremely helpful. My old top was slightly different in some ways, as it was not the original. Also, the last top job on my car seems to have lost a few of the bow bolts and some smaller screws at the header. I found some that would work. Overall, A+++ for Maine Jason's video! Thanks, Jeff
Hey Jeff, thanks so much for taking the time to comment on your experience. I'm really happy the video was helpful and that you were able to complete your project - well done!
OMG just the video I have been looking for. I've had a z3 without the top since before winter and haven't found a suitable video until now. The tool list in the description is super helpful too. Thank you so much!
I can't tell you how much it means to hear this. I really wanted this video to help and inspire - so your comment is very gratifying. Take your time and you'll get it done! Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
I didn't know you could climb onto a convertible top like that. Excellent work and video quality, I especially love the thorough instruction and the music!
Ha! I didn't either, but sometimes necessity dictates risk! I'm very glad you enjoyed the video - that makes all the effort worthwhile 😉 Again, thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video series , I ordered a new top thinking it would be easy to replace and i can 100% say there is no way i wouldve been able to do it without your in depth video😂 the high quality and in depth instructions were a total life saver for me and my 200 bucks
Just finished my install. Final result is perfection. But getting there was rough. There’s nothing particularly hard about any of it. There’s just a zillion steps and the only way out is thru once you get started. The butyl is the stickiest, messiest stuff in the world and takes hours to remove. The stapling is tedious. Much of the job is tedious. But not at all hard or difficult. This video series was my bible. Never once looked at the instructions I printed out. Due to weather and work, took me a week and a half from start to finish. My first 2 days were full and productive. Threw a cover over the car till I could give it a good 6 hours today to finish. Would I do it again? Yes. Here in the Chicago suburbs a professional install is $1100. I actually will be doing it again as my son’s ‘97 needs a new top. He’ll be doing most of the work tho. I’ll just coach. I did change the order of a few steps ever so slightly which didn’t affect anything. The only major thing I did differently from these videos is, I used fishing line to slice thru the old butyl and separate it from the car. Just wriggle the corners free until you can feed the fishing line between the rear bracket and rain rail and slice it along til you get to the middle of the back. Do the same for the other side. Really speeds things along. But speed is relative in this project. Whole ordeal from start to finish probably took 20 hours. Would go faster if you did it all the time and had a nice clean indoor shop with plenty of room. I’ve got a cramped driveway, July heat, and a bunch of random, not terribly well organized tools.
That's great, nice work!! Yes, persistence will get you there. I've heard mention of the fish line technique from others and it sounds like a winner. Now that you've done one, the second will be a piece of cake. 😉 Glad the videos were helpful to you. Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Hi Jason..replaced the Top on my 2002 Z3 yesterday..your videos were excellent and helped me tremendously...My top is extremely tight to close and thought avout un glueing the front edge and moving it back a little and reinstling the cover plate..but as of yet I am going to leave it as is for a month up...and see if it stretches by puting it out in the rain and sun for a while during that time...Thanks again for the great work on the replacement and install of the soft top on the Z3
Hey, congratulations on the successful installation! Yes, that top is ridiculously tight when it first goes on. I think your plan of attack sounds good. The real turning point for mine was when it got wet and dried a few times. That cycle seemed to really "set" the top. It is still tighter than the old one, but it is now certainly manageable by one person. I'm glad the video was helpful, and I thank you for the great comment!
Thank you for the clear video..I'm just about to tackle my Z3 top in Ireland.. will refer to your clear instructions as I go and will let you know how it went..Thanks again
So glad you found this video helpful! Best of luck with the top replacement - take it slow and go step by step. You'll do great! Please do let me know how it goes. Thank you for watching!
I used an old washcloth with some mineral spirits and the old stiky stuff came right off. I also used it to clean the rubber channel just below the plastic to clean the old dust off.
Its certainly scary trying to close the roof for the first time and it did make us start second guessing if it was on right (also ours was a very cheap ebay special) but after few days it was easier to open and now 6 months on its still taught but much easier to close. And as I said in the comments of your first video, remove the seats and style bars to make it easier to refit the hood. Granted it takes time to but beleive me your spine will thank you
Removing the seats would indeed have improved life when doing this project and that is great advice! Thanks again for taking the time to comment, and thanks for watching!
Job done here in Vancouver, Canada. Without your tutorial, I would never have tried. Thank you so much! My Z3 has a very deteriorated soft top but with this replacement it is like new again. Thank you so much! I was not easy, not at all but feasible. My only 2 cents, I used my old top to protect my new one when it was time to apply the glue. Otherwise, I followed every step as you taught!
Fantastic!! I’m very happy your install went well - great job! I’m also pleased to hear that the videos were helpful. It is excellent that you persevered and got the job done. Great tip about using the old top to mask off when applying the adhesive - thank you for that. Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
I liked your video. I have done convertible tops professionally for several years but never on a Z3. there are very few convertible top designs, but it helps having somebody around with experience on a job like this. We got it in just two days. Thanks again.
Thank you for the comment. I'm sure having done this work professionally, you could do it in your sleep! It's always an adventure doing something without much fore-knowledge, and resources on this topic were really lacking, which was why I made this video. For me, seeing someone else do it first is so much easier. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks again for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. Gave me the confidence to replace my top. Mine is a 2002 with the headliner, replacing the headliner was not too complicated but requires moving over a few parts from the old headliner to the new one.
Excellent! Great job taking on a big project and seeing it through. I'm so glad to hear this video is helpful as that was indeed the intent. Thank you for the comments, and thanks for watching!
I'm surprised you didn't take the seats out to work on the bolts for the bow. One of the best parts about a 2-seater being a convertible or a t-top/targa is just how easy the seats come out compared to a fixed roof car. And taking out the seats makes work on the interior of the car so much easier.
I thought about taking them out, but I was concerned I'd damage the wiring harnesses while flailing around in there - lol! At least having the seats in was a little easier on the knees. 😉 Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Excellent videos! My daughter and I are putting a new top on a 1996 Z3 she bought last week as a project car. Thankfully you made some mistakes we can avoid. We really appreciate your detailed videos. Wish us luck!
Replaced my z3 top two months ago, and I wish this video was out when I did it 😭, will actually be doing a valve cover gasket replacement soon with your recent vid, fingers crossed!
Great video, but I must admit it is giving me second thoughts about DYI on this one. I saved a lot so far by painting my car myself and performing a lot of repairs around the engine bay.
For sure it's a lot of work, and it gets a bit scary when you are in the middle of it. If you do take it on, like I mentioned more than once in the video, take your time and don't force anything. Best of luck to you and thanks for watching!
Very informative, thank you. I'm picking up my late father's z3 2.8 wide body and have been told the roof leaks badly " 1000 mile drive in the dead of winter " 😂 should be fun! Anyway this is the first job on the list
Wow! Hopefully you wont have to deal with any snow or ice. The Z3 may be the worst car ever to drive in those conditions - don’t ask my how I know 😜. I’m glad you found the video possibly useful. Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
Was thinking of doing it myself, but after the video and to see how many things I need to buy inorder to have a smooth go at it, feels like too much. I'm going to find a professional, but thanks for this video! I will surely recommend this video to whoever does it for me :D
It is most certainly a big undertaking. If you don't have most of the tools already, it can add up quickly. Thank you for the comment, the future recommendation, and thanks for watching!
Excellent! It really is nice to hear that these vids are helpful to you all! Great work getting your Z back into fighting shape!! Thank you for the kind words, and thanks for watching!
@@mainejason of course! Just completed mine on my 2002 with the headliner. I bought the $99 sail material too on eBay & it fits perfectly. It’s missing the plastics to send the screws in but still doable with the material flaps & a pic tool
Liked & subscribed! Great video, great production. I enjoyed your struggle and appreciate being convinced I need to save up and pay a professional to install a new top on my ‘99. 🤓👍🏻 Fortunately, I have a good place in town. But thanks to your educational project, I will be better able to ask informed questions. Cheers!
So absolutely by far the best, clearest, most detailed, informational, and entertaining video I’ve seen for replacing one of these! Thank you for the video as I’ve been wanting to replace my top the last year I’ve owned my 2000 2.3. By any chance during your research, did you come across anything detailing the interior “headliner” of the soft top? Mine has one and it does have quite the smooth and clean look inside that I would love to keep if possible. I’m doubtful I’ll be able to keep it though😂
Thanks so much for the kind words. I really appreciate it and I'm glad you are finding it helpful. As you probably saw, mine did not have a headliner but I believe Sierra Tops has them. Given my "accident" with the adhesive, I have considered it, but I don't know if it can go in after the fact. Good luck if you take on this project. Let me know how it goes, and thanks for watching!
mine has the headliner and i was able to keep it in place while doing the top, but it increased the level of difficulty a bit. It is riveted/screwed (mine had both) to the frame under the top at the front of the vehicle, so to replace it after the top was done would require removing the front trim piece and peeling back the top to expose that metal.
Thank you so much posting this video. Very in depth and super helpful with a z3 I recently purchased and the issues I need to address with my leaking top. 10/10
Thanks so much for the kind comments. Congrats on your new purchase! Take your time with the top and you'll do great. Let me know how it goes. Thank you again for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Jason you definitely aren’t perfect and it’s great to let us see your mistakes, so we can avoid them. I love a nice wrinkle free top but seeing as I’m getting up there in age I don’t think I will be able to climb on top of my car every time I want to close the roof, especially if it’s at a traffic light. Is this feat still required to close the roof? Thanks again Lenard. P.S. All joking aside, great job, awesome video.
Thank you so much for the kind words, Lenard. It’s not easy showing one’s flaws in a video, but I think it’s important to show the pitfalls when they arise. Fortunately the top does stretch out and closing is much easier. I have to say, a bit more effort is still required compared to the old top, but I also no longer have a front seat full of water when it rains! Best of luck if you end up doing your own top replacement. Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Maine, did you try some acetone on your overspray? Loved the detail in your video, will be replacing my top soon. Thanks for putting this together to help the rest of us through the process.
I did not try acetone, but it is an interesting thought. Acetone is pretty aggressive stuff so it would have to be used quite carefully. I very much appreciate the comment, and I’m glad you are getting some inspiration from the video. Good luck with the install and let me know how it goes!
I need to due same job. Great tips. I have been a mechanic. For 45 years although I worked for interior shop it was very helpful watchen your install. I hate haven other people work on my car so I will give it a go.
Like the info presented here generally however reassembly gets confusing with regards to the straps. I'm writing out a procedure book for myself to reference when its time to do the work and I had to stop absolutely at about the 14 minute mark because I had no idea that was going on. I decided I'd just need to feel my way through that part of the process. What is it we are doing in the "don't do it" section? Tension strap? A strap holding the canvas to the frame? Something you mistakenly cut? Not sure. Is glue involved or is it just pop rivets? You pealed everything off the frame during disassembly. Maybe there's no glue. Thanks
I went back and looked at that section of the video. I can see where this may be a bit confusing, but I was documenting where I went wrong because I followed the very sparse instructions that came with the top. I felt it was prudent to add this information to address the discrepancy between the instructions and reality. It may all make more sense to you when you actually get to this part of the process. The straps I am referring to are elastic tension straps permanently affixed to the top. In the instructions included with the top, these straps were to be attached to the first bow or cross-member back from the front of the top (the first bow back from the front piece with the lock-down clamps). On the original top that I removed, these tension straps were affixed to the second bow or cross-member back from the front (one back from where the instructions described). I decided to follow the instructions and used the first bow, which required drilling new holes to accept the rivets. As I say at 14:16, " When the top is up and finished, the straps are too tight and pulled the rear window slightly out of shape. Use the original holes and attach these straps to the second cross member where the old straps were." So, I recommended (rather strongly) that the instructions not be followed and that the straps be attached to the location used by the original top. I address the issue at 28:03. As for adhesives - none is used at the rivet points. I hope that clears things up a bit for you. Thank you for the comment, and best of luck with your installation!
Goo gone for that overspray? It's petroleum-based so it could leave a grease spot, but some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel might be able to get it off. Spot test just in case
Thank you for the tip! I wish I still had the extra fabric from the window cut-out to test on but I will certainly keep it in mind. Thanks for watching!
At 9:30 in the video, can you please explain the installation of the second strip of butyl ribbon tape? Are the two strips touching each other, or forming a channel for the water to go between?
You know, that is a very good question. As I recall, the two strips of tape are not touching and are parallel. I believe my thinking was that those side/end sections are a bit taller, so I'd just add some more to those areas. I honestly do not remember if I read that somewhere, or if it was just my reasoning. I CAN tell you that I have had absolutely zero leaks - so take that for what it's worth. I hope this answers your question.
I just bought a 2001 Z3 that was a Texas car. The black top looks great except the window is hazy. How can I tell if it’s an original one? It has 83k miles and no rust or signs of leaking. The top has the interior lining also.
Great find! Getting one with no rust is a dream. As forvthe top, about the only thing that might give a clue is if the back window has the zipper. If so, it's most likely original - or at least an oem top. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Yes. You can see around the 20:00 mark that the bottom of the plate roughly lines up with the edge of the the folded over fabric. The screws did, indeed, go through the canvas. Thank you for the question, and thanks for watching!
amazing video! I dont need a new top, but my sealing frame is cracked (common). I think I'd have to remove the butyl seal and pull the metal bow piece, then pull the sealing frame and repair it or make a mold and fabricate a new one. none of this will be good. Not sure this can even be done while the top is still completely attached to the rest of the aparatus. Thoughts? Also, what are the staples landing on? Did you say the bow is aluminum? Wish the sealing frame was!
Thank you much! If you are not getting any water in your trunk or having any other issues with leaking, I'd say leave it alone! Mine is cracked right in the center, but the butyl is doing its job so far. I gave some thought to fabricating a new sealing frame, but nothing reasonable came to mind. I read a post about using some 1/4" rubber ribbon to make a seal, but the issue would be attaching the top gasket to it. If you come up with a way of recreating that piece, you'd have yourself a lucrative business!! 😄 I believe the bow is aluminum. The staples drive into a notch in the bow that is filled with some sort of dense plastic. Easy to staple to, but holds them well. If you come up with a good solution for the discontinued sealing frame, let me know! BTW...great channel. I've checked out many of your videos and I just subscribed ( not sure why I didn't before! ) Thanks for watching!
@mainejason thanks I just subbed you as well. Had been meaning to check your top vids for a while, finally got to them today. I do get water in the trunk, I could do the job right with a new frame, but... I may try needle dispensed super glue into the cracks although it'll be done mostly blind. Try to put out a video on this Sunday. Thanks again!
Thanks for the sub! The superglue idea sounds interesting. If the crack is tight, that may work. I'll look for the video! I'm editing a Z3 video right now - should be out within a week.
Hi Jason, please help me, I am batteling over 6 months with the new soft roof (aftermarket) installation, all followed your steps, however the final end to fold and put the strip because the top is well away from the closing clamps and unable to close, I have already adjusted the maximum limit to the front locking mechanism but NO LUCK? God bless you>
Just to be sure I'm understanding where you are at: You are just at the point where you would glue and attach the flap to the very front of the top and install the metal retaining bow (at about 19:00 into the video)? There is no doubt that the top is very, VERY tight when first installed. If you look here: ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxnxwf3OT5UqP5H_3KqohEleFOq5yjWNLW?si=8NRZ8M5vEwF5LASI you can see what the gap looked like initially for me. I had to sit on the top to get it to lock in. Even better if you have someone to help. Another thing to check: Make sure the seams in the top are lining up and laying on top of the crossmember ribs. If they are not centered, the top may be askew and need adjusting. Also - check for an excessive amount of indentation where the rear tension straps connect. If the top is being severely pulled out of shape when trying to put it up, they may be too tight, mounted in the wrong place, or need some sort of adjustment. If all that looks good, you could try wetting the top so it will stretch a bit. It is canvas and will stretch under tension and a bit of moisture could help that along. I wouldn't saturate it, but just shower it with a sprayer like it was out in a soft rain. Note that after adjusting the closing camps, the top may not lock correctly once you do get it stretched enough to finally close. You'll most likely need to get them set back to there original position in order to get a water tight seal. I hope this helps and best of luck!
@@mainejason Yeahhhh kinda! Has those little buttons similar to the ones in the storage compartment to secure it in it seems... Not too sure 🤔 Id like to preserve it but see no guides to
@@j6sph something like this? This may not fit your model, but it's the idea. www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CH73-USA---Z3-BMW-Z3+1.9&diagId=54_0309
Excellent! Take it slow and pay attention to the details and you'll do great. It took me way longer that it most likely will you as I was filming everything along with having to buy parts or tools I didn't know I needed. Took me a week, but I think you could certainly do it over a weekend. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
@mainejason I replaced my soft top about a month before you made this video… wish I’d known it was coming!! Unfortunately, I didn’t think to check my sealing frame for cracks at the time and my new top looks great but my trunk is full of water with even the slightest rain. What do you think would happen if I were to remove the bow and “repair” the sealing frame/replace butyl tape with the rest of the top still installed? I’m considering ripping the sealing frame out entirely and replacing with thicker butyl. Living in VT, I’m pretty sure it’s going to keep on cracking.
Ohhhhh, that sucks! You should be able to lift out the bow with the top attached and either fold it back or suspend it somehow. The problem with not having the sealing frame in there is that the rubber sealing gasket attaches to the top of that. Maybe, if you could get the sealing frame out without breaking it into 25 pieces, you could replace the butyl tape behind it, high enough and thick enough to fill the gaps. But, that's a lot of work with no assurance!!! That sealing frame is definitely a weak spot in the engineering...especially since it is no longer available! Good luck to you! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
@mainejason success! Thanks for the input. I was able to take just the rear bow & sealing frame back out without removing the top. The sealing frame came out in 5 pieces, as expected. After cleaning it up, “laminating” it with foil tape and re-installing with butyl tape, there are no leaks! I think it’ll be a little more resistant to cracks now too with the tape. Really appreciated being able to reference the video. I’m psyched! Thanks.
Hey, I'm really glad to hear the good news! Great idea with the foil tape - very resourceful. And best of all, no more water in the trunk! Thank you for the update, and well done!
@@mainejason I have the same problem. The previous owner got the top replaced, but it's leaking into the trunk. So will have to try to get to the sealing frame and have a look at its condition. Great to hear that you managed to access it without removing the top!
I hear you. It is, indeed, a big project. I always have my eyes open for a decent hard top. If I could find one worth buying, I'd grab it. Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
It is the Arrow pneumatic staple gun with, I believe 10mm stainless steel staples. The links are in the description. I also made a short review video for it. Great little gun. The bow has a channel in it that has a kind of plastic substance embedded into it. That is what you staple into. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
I guess I didn't add one, but there are three ways to find it now: 1. On my channel, 2. in the description, 3. at the end of the video. Thanks for bringing that to my attention, and thanks for watching!
Go with 10mm and make sure they are stainless steel so they don't rust. I don't know why I didn't have a link to the correct ones in the description, but it is there now. Good luck! Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
What's your address? I'll send my car over next month... Great video, however I may need to watch it a couple more times before I step out of my comfort zone...
Problem is, I'd have to watch it a few times again myself to remember how it's done! If you jump in, just take your time and don't force anything - you'll do fine! Thanks for watching ☺️
There is a link to the exact rivets I used in the description - I got them from McMaster-Carr. I believe they were 1/8" diameter. Thank you for watching!
It will certainly depend on one's comfort level with using tools and working with mechanical as well as fabric materials. It will also depend on if all the appropriate tools are available. I'd say an actual installer could do it in a half day. A competent diy'er could perhaps do it in a day, but I'd budget 2. I'd be curious to know how much time others took as well.
I'd say I'm a competent DIY guy, and I will have all appropriate tools on hand before starting. I also have 3 kids in elementary school, so I'll budget 3 months 😂😂😂
Jumped into this project, and things are mostly going well. However, my car has a headliner and I'm keeping the original. To preserve it i have to keep it partially installed. Is there a reason you waited to adhere the strips to the cross bars after you attached to the front main cross bar? It seems a lot easier to start at the back and work forward. This would allow me to work over my installed headliner. Any suggestion why that approach would be bad?
I'm assuming you are referring to the steps around the 22-minute mark. The best justification I can give for doing it the way I did ( especially with the benefit of hindsight ) is that it would be fairly difficult to know exactly how the seams and the ribs will line up. With the front affixed first, the alignment of ribs to seams is automatic, and the strap locations are just being locked in. My fear in working from back to front is that the locations of those seams and ribs ares a guess - if they aren't just right, they could cause the top to pucker and/or become skewed. That being said, I suppose it is possible to get everything lined up using that method, but since I've only done this once, I don't feel I'd have the experience to get it right. Unfortunately, I have no experience with a headliner, so I can't give any advice beyond this, but I hope it helps. Good luck with the installation, and thank you for the comment!
Liked & subscribed! Great video, great production. I enjoyed your struggle and appreciate being convinced I need to save up and pay a professional to install a new top on my ‘99. 🤓👍🏻 Fortunately, I have a good place in town. But thanks to your educational project, I will be better able to ask informed questions. Cheers!
Thank you for the like and sub! I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you have a place that can do this type of work, by all means use them! Far easier, that's for sure. Enjoy your Z, and thanks for watching!
This video was my Bible. Just finished my replacement today. Many thanks!
For anyone trying to save and re use a headliner, it can be done, but requires a lot of careful review in between steps on this video.
Thank you for the kind words. I'm very happy your installation went well and that the video was helpful!
Also, thank you for the tip about the headliner.
@mainejason headliner is riveted onto the front main crossbar, and has to be removed to access the side tension spring. Also, the push rivets at the back ( last cross bar) couldn't be saved, so I used aluminum rivets. However the holes were larger and 3/16 rivets were needed.
Excellent information - thank you!
First of all, THANK YOU for that awesome video. Nobody has done it better! You are the mentor. You took the fear out of me to attack this job again. Did it about 7 years ago for a customer without instructions. After 14 hours of actual work, using every bad word in the book, walking away and using many cigarettes, I was done. Said never do it again! Now that I own a Z3 that has basically no rear window plastic left ( beautiful TEXAS sun and heat ) and the staples have come undone at the rear to the trunk. Must say a daily driver parked outside with 235000 miles on it, 1999 2.3, mechanically perfect, optically a ratrod. 3rd paint job or what ever is left of it, any paint, some down to bare metal. Love this BMW to much to retire it. Driving it every day puts a smile on my face. Point is now I feel confident because of your video to tackle this job again. Again THANK YOU! Keep up the great work. If you never owned a BMW Z3 you never had a life! I want a Z3 M next.😊
Thank you so much for the kind words - I'm very glad the video gave you the confidence to tackle this job again!
There is no doubt it's a daunting task, and I commend you for taking it on 7 years ago - especially with the lack of installation information!
Your Z sounds like it has ( and continues ) to serve you well - best of luck on the install. Let me know how it turns out!
Thanks again for the comment, and thank you for watching!
Thank you so much for creating and posting this high quality video. I finished my Z3 top replacement yesterday and i don't think i could have done it without this detailed content.
Fantastic! Thank you for the kind words, for letting me know how it went, and thanks for watching!
My man. I can't tell you how good this video is. I took the old ratty top off a few years ago and never got the new one back on since this car is not a daily driver, and so it sat. Every now and then I'd build up the motivation and some free time to try and get back at it but was always overwhelmed by the lack of detailed info out there and would invariably give up, since I've all but forgotten how everything came apart at this point. This video and tool list is exactly what I and the rest of the world has been missing this whole time. I'm buying the tools and parts I need today. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and for being so thorough in your explanation and lessons learned. This is a master class in DIY repair.
Gosh, I am so humbled by your very kind words. I am so appreciative of your taking the time to tell me your story, and I'm very happy that the video helped you get after your task.
Take your time and don't get frustrated. You will be successful, I'm certain.
Thank you again for the wonderful comments, and thanks for watching!
Watched both videos start to finish and concluded that when the time comes for my M Roadster, I'm hiring a pro to do this job. A+ for the videos!
I certainly don't blame you - it turned out to be a big job!
Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
@@mainejason Yeah I don't have your skill or patience!
Just finished my installation and I honestly couldn't have done it without your videos your am absolute legend! the people that are saying the new version of the sierra auto tops soft top isn't installable DIY are wrong but it's definitely more of a pain because instead of plastic retainers that you can neatly tuck in you just get flaps of fabric which I just tucked in behind the brackets that the rubber seals go onto, the new top also didn't come with a replacement for the crimp clips that hold the tension cable so I had to reuse the old ones. to add to the challenge the aftermarket top that was already on the car had been installed by someone who didn't know what they were doing and broke the sealing frame, sticking the broken pieces back in with lots of horrible sticky adhesive and not wanting to source a new one I made a neoprene gasket to seal it off, overall a challenging and fun experience but I'm glad it's over
Thanks so much for telling us about your experience!
It's too bad the new tops have changed... I wonder why they did that?
Your extra tips and tricks will most certainly be invaluable to anyone doing this project!
Great job persevering and getting the job done! It is a big project, for sure, but the reward for accomplishment is great indeed!
Thank you for your great comment!
what city are you in can i hire to to replace mine
i am in Los Angeles
@@Marco95306I live in australia but you can definitely do it yourself with enough patience
Thank you for this great tutorial !
I bought a Z3 that had its top removed by the previous owner and was never replaced
This was a massive help and I was able to do it all by myself in one weekend, couldn’t have done it without this video !
Excellent! I'm so happy to hear this was helpful to you! Great work getting that job done. Thanks for watching!!
I found this video last week and after watching it twice , I decided to tackle this job on my '98 Z3. I already owned most of the tools but I did order the pneumatic stapler(wow, that thing is fun!) I bought my top, started the removal process on Friday afternoon, and am finished on Sunday morning! This video was extremely helpful. My old top was slightly different in some ways, as it was not the original. Also, the last top job on my car seems to have lost a few of the bow bolts and some smaller screws at the header. I found some that would work. Overall, A+++ for Maine Jason's video! Thanks, Jeff
Hey Jeff, thanks so much for taking the time to comment on your experience.
I'm really happy the video was helpful and that you were able to complete your project - well done!
OMG just the video I have been looking for. I've had a z3 without the top since before winter and haven't found a suitable video until now. The tool list in the description is super helpful too. Thank you so much!
I can't tell you how much it means to hear this. I really wanted this video to help and inspire - so your comment is very gratifying. Take your time and you'll get it done! Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
I didn't know you could climb onto a convertible top like that. Excellent work and video quality, I especially love the thorough instruction and the music!
Ha! I didn't either, but sometimes necessity dictates risk! I'm very glad you enjoyed the video - that makes all the effort worthwhile 😉
Again, thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video series , I ordered a new top thinking it would be easy to replace and i can 100% say there is no way i wouldve been able to do it without your in depth video😂 the high quality and in depth instructions were a total life saver for me and my 200 bucks
Hey, that’s very kind of you to say.
I’m really glad the video was helpful to you, and that you got the job done!
Thank you for your comment
Just finished my install. Final result is perfection. But getting there was rough. There’s nothing particularly hard about any of it. There’s just a zillion steps and the only way out is thru once you get started. The butyl is the stickiest, messiest stuff in the world and takes hours to remove. The stapling is tedious. Much of the job is tedious. But not at all hard or difficult. This video series was my bible. Never once looked at the instructions I printed out. Due to weather and work, took me a week and a half from start to finish. My first 2 days were full and productive. Threw a cover over the car till I could give it a good 6 hours today to finish. Would I do it again? Yes. Here in the Chicago suburbs a professional install is $1100. I actually will be doing it again as my son’s ‘97 needs a new top. He’ll be doing most of the work tho. I’ll just coach. I did change the order of a few steps ever so slightly which didn’t affect anything. The only major thing I did differently from these videos is, I used fishing line to slice thru the old butyl and separate it from the car. Just wriggle the corners free until you can feed the fishing line between the rear bracket and rain rail and slice it along til you get to the middle of the back. Do the same for the other side. Really speeds things along. But speed is relative in this project. Whole ordeal from start to finish probably took 20 hours. Would go faster if you did it all the time and had a nice clean indoor shop with plenty of room. I’ve got a cramped driveway, July heat, and a bunch of random, not terribly well organized tools.
That's great, nice work!! Yes, persistence will get you there. I've heard mention of the fish line technique from others and it sounds like a winner.
Now that you've done one, the second will be a piece of cake. 😉
Glad the videos were helpful to you.
Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Hi Jason..replaced the Top on my 2002 Z3 yesterday..your videos were excellent and helped me tremendously...My top is extremely tight to close and thought avout un glueing the front edge and moving it back a little and reinstling the cover plate..but as of yet I am going to leave it as is for a month up...and see if it stretches by puting it out in the rain and sun for a while during that time...Thanks again for the great work on the replacement and install of the soft top on the Z3
Hey, congratulations on the successful installation! Yes, that top is ridiculously tight when it first goes on. I think your plan of attack sounds good. The real turning point for mine was when it got wet and dried a few times. That cycle seemed to really "set" the top. It is still tighter than the old one, but it is now certainly manageable by one person.
I'm glad the video was helpful, and I thank you for the great comment!
Thank you for the clear video..I'm just about to tackle my Z3 top in Ireland.. will refer to your clear instructions as I go and will let you know how it went..Thanks again
So glad you found this video helpful!
Best of luck with the top replacement - take it slow and go step by step. You'll do great!
Please do let me know how it goes.
Thank you for watching!
Hello Jason, great to hear from you, yes! I will try to follow first thing in the morning, Much appreciated!
Good luck!
I used an old washcloth with some mineral spirits and the old stiky stuff came right off. I also used it to clean the rubber channel just below the plastic to clean the old dust off.
Great tip, thank you for sharing that!
Its certainly scary trying to close the roof for the first time and it did make us start second guessing if it was on right (also ours was a very cheap ebay special) but after few days it was easier to open and now 6 months on its still taught but much easier to close.
And as I said in the comments of your first video, remove the seats and style bars to make it easier to refit the hood. Granted it takes time to but beleive me your spine will thank you
Removing the seats would indeed have improved life when doing this project and that is great advice! Thanks again for taking the time to comment, and thanks for watching!
Job done here in Vancouver, Canada. Without your tutorial, I would never have tried. Thank you so much! My Z3 has a very deteriorated soft top but with this replacement it is like new again. Thank you so much! I was not easy, not at all but feasible.
My only 2 cents, I used my old top to protect my new one when it was time to apply the glue. Otherwise, I followed every step as you taught!
Fantastic!! I’m very happy your install went well - great job! I’m also pleased to hear that the videos were helpful. It is excellent that you persevered and got the job done.
Great tip about using the old top to mask off when applying the adhesive - thank you for that.
Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
I liked your video. I have done convertible tops professionally for several years but never on a Z3. there are very few convertible top designs, but it helps having somebody around with experience on a job like this. We got it in just two days. Thanks again.
Thank you for the comment. I'm sure having done this work professionally, you could do it in your sleep! It's always an adventure doing something without much fore-knowledge, and resources on this topic were really lacking, which was why I made this video. For me, seeing someone else do it first is so much easier.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks again for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. Gave me the confidence to replace my top. Mine is a 2002 with the headliner, replacing the headliner was not too complicated but requires moving over a few parts from the old headliner to the new one.
Excellent! Great job taking on a big project and seeing it through. I'm so glad to hear this video is helpful as that was indeed the intent. Thank you for the comments, and thanks for watching!
God bless you sir! Thank you for your dedication to make such a great video. Please keep them coming!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it to be useful. Thanks for watching!
I'm surprised you didn't take the seats out to work on the bolts for the bow. One of the best parts about a 2-seater being a convertible or a t-top/targa is just how easy the seats come out compared to a fixed roof car. And taking out the seats makes work on the interior of the car so much easier.
I thought about taking them out, but I was concerned I'd damage the wiring harnesses while flailing around in there - lol!
At least having the seats in was a little easier on the knees. 😉
Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Excellent videos! My daughter and I are putting a new top on a 1996 Z3 she bought last week as a project car. Thankfully you made some mistakes we can avoid. We really appreciate your detailed videos. Wish us luck!
Thanks much! Good luck with the install. Take it slow and it will go fine. Thanks for watching!
Replaced my z3 top two months ago, and I wish this video was out when I did it 😭, will actually be doing a valve cover gasket replacement soon with your recent vid, fingers crossed!
Well, you got the tough one done - good job! The valve cover gasket is a piece of cake in comparison. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Great video, but I must admit it is giving me second thoughts about DYI on this one. I saved a lot so far by painting my car myself and performing a lot of repairs around the engine bay.
For sure it's a lot of work, and it gets a bit scary when you are in the middle of it. If you do take it on, like I mentioned more than once in the video, take your time and don't force anything. Best of luck to you and thanks for watching!
In composites, we use that tape, trade name is tacky-tape. We use acetone to soften/release it so we can clean tooling.
That is certainly an apt moniker - tacky is almost an understatement :)
Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Very informative, thank you. I'm picking up my late father's z3 2.8 wide body and have been told the roof leaks badly " 1000 mile drive in the dead of winter " 😂 should be fun! Anyway this is the first job on the list
Wow! Hopefully you wont have to deal with any snow or ice. The Z3 may be the worst car ever to drive in those conditions - don’t ask my how I know 😜. I’m glad you found the video possibly useful. Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
Very nice. This looks like an unenjoyable job but my car could certainly use it.
Thank you. If you do take it on, just take your time and you’ll get through it.
Thanks for watching!
Was thinking of doing it myself, but after the video and to see how many things I need to buy inorder to have a smooth go at it, feels like too much. I'm going to find a professional, but thanks for this video! I will surely recommend this video to whoever does it for me :D
It is most certainly a big undertaking. If you don't have most of the tools already, it can add up quickly.
Thank you for the comment, the future recommendation, and thanks for watching!
These videos were a lifesaver top Saver) My Baby is back and can outside when it rains again Thank you Thank You Thank You
Excellent! It really is nice to hear that these vids are helpful to you all!
Great work getting your Z back into fighting shape!!
Thank you for the kind words, and thanks for watching!
Suburb video. Best one for Z3 top on UA-cam!!!
Very kind words - thank you, and thanks for watching!
@@mainejason of course! Just completed mine on my 2002 with the headliner. I bought the $99 sail material too on eBay & it fits perfectly. It’s missing the plastics to send the screws in but still doable with the material flaps & a pic tool
Excellent - nice work!
I’m glad it worked out well for you.
I wish this video was posted 3 months ago when I f***ed up the new top trying to install it... great explainer tho!
Gahhhh! Sorry to hear your install went badly, but thanks for watching!
Liked & subscribed! Great video, great production. I enjoyed your struggle and appreciate being convinced I need to save up and pay a professional to install a new top on my ‘99. 🤓👍🏻 Fortunately, I have a good place in town. But thanks to your educational project, I will be better able to ask informed questions. Cheers!
Thank you a second time! 😉
So absolutely by far the best, clearest, most detailed, informational, and entertaining video I’ve seen for replacing one of these! Thank you for the video as I’ve been wanting to replace my top the last year I’ve owned my 2000 2.3. By any chance during your research, did you come across anything detailing the interior “headliner” of the soft top? Mine has one and it does have quite the smooth and clean look inside that I would love to keep if possible. I’m doubtful I’ll be able to keep it though😂
Thanks so much for the kind words. I really appreciate it and I'm glad you are finding it helpful. As you probably saw, mine did not have a headliner but I believe Sierra Tops has them. Given my "accident" with the adhesive, I have considered it, but I don't know if it can go in after the fact. Good luck if you take on this project. Let me know how it goes, and thanks for watching!
mine has the headliner and i was able to keep it in place while doing the top, but it increased the level of difficulty a bit. It is riveted/screwed (mine had both) to the frame under the top at the front of the vehicle, so to replace it after the top was done would require removing the front trim piece and peeling back the top to expose that metal.
Thanks for the info. Having to go back in and do surgery after the fact is what I was afraid of. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much posting this video. Very in depth and super helpful with a z3 I recently purchased and the issues I need to address with my leaking top. 10/10
Thanks so much for the kind comments.
Congrats on your new purchase! Take your time with the top and you'll do great.
Let me know how it goes.
Thank you again for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Hi Jason, it was great to be with an excellent content video and I am still enjoying the steps......
Glad you are enjoying the video. Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Jason you definitely aren’t perfect and it’s great to let us see your mistakes, so we can avoid them. I love a nice wrinkle free top but seeing as I’m getting up there in age I don’t think I will be able to climb on top of my car every time I want to close the roof, especially if it’s at a traffic light. Is this feat still required to close the roof? Thanks again Lenard.
P.S. All joking aside, great job, awesome video.
Thank you so much for the kind words, Lenard.
It’s not easy showing one’s flaws in a video, but I think it’s important to show the pitfalls when they arise.
Fortunately the top does stretch out and closing is much easier. I have to say, a bit more effort is still required compared to the old top, but I also no longer have a front seat full of water when it rains!
Best of luck if you end up doing your own top replacement.
Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Maine, did you try some acetone on your overspray? Loved the detail in your video, will be replacing my top soon. Thanks for putting this together to help the rest of us through the process.
I did not try acetone, but it is an interesting thought.
Acetone is pretty aggressive stuff so it would have to be used quite carefully.
I very much appreciate the comment, and I’m glad you are getting some inspiration from the video.
Good luck with the install and let me know how it goes!
I need to due same job. Great tips. I have been a mechanic. For 45 years although I worked for interior shop it was very helpful watchen your install. I hate haven other people work on my car so I will give it a go.
Thank you for the comment. It sounds like you'll easily have the skills for this project. Best of luck.
Thank you again, and thanks for watching!
Do you plan on making more Z3 content? Because this was actually good.
Thanks much. I do have some plans to do some work on the Z this winter. I'm sure that will result in some videos ;) Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video people like you makes life better your the best ❤😊
That is such a kind comment. I'm glad you found the video helpful, or at least interesting.
Thank you again, and thanks for watching!
At about the three minute mark you might add that if your rear shocks need to be replaced, now would be the time to do it!
For sure! Unfortunately, I did not take advantage of that...
Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Great video, im gonna change my z3 softop and im gonna use this video.
Thanks for the comment. Best of luck on your project. Take your time and it will come our great!
Thanks again, and thanks for watching!
Magnificent Job! One day I might attempt this.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it. If you do give it a try, let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, I may try doing this on my car. Thanks!
Give it a shot! Take your time and it will come out great. Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Hi Maine great video . With my car removing the seats helps..take care ..
Glad you enjoyed the vid. Yes, removing the seats would have been helpful. Thanks for watching!
Like the info presented here generally however reassembly gets confusing with regards to the straps. I'm writing out a procedure book for myself to reference when its time to do the work and I had to stop absolutely at about the 14 minute mark because I had no idea that was going on. I decided I'd just need to feel my way through that part of the process. What is it we are doing in the "don't do it" section? Tension strap? A strap holding the canvas to the frame? Something you mistakenly cut? Not sure. Is glue involved or is it just pop rivets? You pealed everything off the frame during disassembly. Maybe there's no glue. Thanks
I went back and looked at that section of the video. I can see where this may be a bit confusing, but I was documenting where I went wrong because I followed the very sparse instructions that came with the top. I felt it was prudent to add this information to address the discrepancy between the instructions and reality.
It may all make more sense to you when you actually get to this part of the process.
The straps I am referring to are elastic tension straps permanently affixed to the top. In the instructions included with the top, these straps were to be attached to the first bow or cross-member back from the front of the top (the first bow back from the front piece with the lock-down clamps). On the original top that I removed, these tension straps were affixed to the second bow or cross-member back from the front (one back from where the instructions described).
I decided to follow the instructions and used the first bow, which required drilling new holes to accept the rivets.
As I say at 14:16, " When the top is up and finished, the straps are too tight and pulled the rear window slightly out of shape. Use the original holes and attach these straps to the second cross member where the old straps were."
So, I recommended (rather strongly) that the instructions not be followed and that the straps be attached to the location used by the original top. I address the issue at 28:03.
As for adhesives - none is used at the rivet points.
I hope that clears things up a bit for you.
Thank you for the comment, and best of luck with your installation!
Goo gone for that overspray? It's petroleum-based so it could leave a grease spot, but some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel might be able to get it off. Spot test just in case
Thank you for the tip! I wish I still had the extra fabric from the window cut-out to test on but I will certainly keep it in mind. Thanks for watching!
Well done!!!! Thank you so much!!!!
I'm glad you are finding the video helpful. Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
At 9:30 in the video, can you please explain the installation of the second strip of butyl ribbon tape? Are the two strips touching each other, or forming a channel for the water to go between?
You know, that is a very good question.
As I recall, the two strips of tape are not touching and are parallel. I believe my thinking was that those side/end sections are a bit taller, so I'd just add some more to those areas. I honestly do not remember if I read that somewhere, or if it was just my reasoning. I CAN tell you that I have had absolutely zero leaks - so take that for what it's worth.
I hope this answers your question.
I just bought a 2001 Z3 that was a Texas car. The black top looks great except the window is hazy. How can I tell if it’s an original one? It has 83k miles and no rust or signs of leaking. The top has the interior lining also.
Great find! Getting one with no rust is a dream. As forvthe top, about the only thing that might give a clue is if the back window has the zipper. If so, it's most likely original - or at least an oem top.
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Thanks lovely
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for watching!
When you install the faceplate on the header bow, are you putting the screws through the fabric?
Yes. You can see around the 20:00 mark that the bottom of the plate roughly lines up with the edge of the the folded over fabric. The screws did, indeed, go through the canvas.
Thank you for the question, and thanks for watching!
amazing video! I dont need a new top, but my sealing frame is cracked (common). I think I'd have to remove the butyl seal and pull the metal bow piece, then pull the sealing frame and repair it or make a mold and fabricate a new one. none of this will be good. Not sure this can even be done while the top is still completely attached to the rest of the aparatus. Thoughts? Also, what are the staples landing on? Did you say the bow is aluminum? Wish the sealing frame was!
Thank you much! If you are not getting any water in your trunk or having any other issues with leaking, I'd say leave it alone! Mine is cracked right in the center, but the butyl is doing its job so far.
I gave some thought to fabricating a new sealing frame, but nothing reasonable came to mind. I read a post about using some 1/4" rubber ribbon to make a seal, but the issue would be attaching the top gasket to it. If you come up with a way of recreating that piece, you'd have yourself a lucrative business!! 😄
I believe the bow is aluminum. The staples drive into a notch in the bow that is filled with some sort of dense plastic. Easy to staple to, but holds them well.
If you come up with a good solution for the discontinued sealing frame, let me know!
BTW...great channel. I've checked out many of your videos and I just subscribed ( not sure why I didn't before! )
Thanks for watching!
@mainejason thanks I just subbed you as well. Had been meaning to check your top vids for a while, finally got to them today. I do get water in the trunk, I could do the job right with a new frame, but... I may try needle dispensed super glue into the cracks although it'll be done mostly blind. Try to put out a video on this Sunday. Thanks again!
Thanks for the sub! The superglue idea sounds interesting. If the crack is tight, that may work. I'll look for the video! I'm editing a Z3 video right now - should be out within a week.
@mainejason look forward to it!
Hi Jason, please help me, I am batteling over 6 months with the new soft roof (aftermarket) installation, all followed your steps, however the final end to fold and put the strip because the top is well away from the closing clamps and unable to close, I have already adjusted the maximum limit to the front locking mechanism but NO LUCK? God bless you>
Just to be sure I'm understanding where you are at: You are just at the point where you would glue and attach the flap to the very front of the top and install the metal retaining bow (at about 19:00 into the video)?
There is no doubt that the top is very, VERY tight when first installed. If you look here:
ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxnxwf3OT5UqP5H_3KqohEleFOq5yjWNLW?si=8NRZ8M5vEwF5LASI
you can see what the gap looked like initially for me. I had to sit on the top to get it to lock in. Even better if you have someone to help.
Another thing to check: Make sure the seams in the top are lining up and laying on top of the crossmember ribs. If they are not centered, the top may be askew and need adjusting.
Also - check for an excessive amount of indentation where the rear tension straps connect. If the top is being severely pulled out of shape when trying to put it up, they may be too tight, mounted in the wrong place, or need some sort of adjustment.
If all that looks good, you could try wetting the top so it will stretch a bit. It is canvas and will stretch under tension and a bit of moisture could help that along. I wouldn't saturate it, but just shower it with a sprayer like it was out in a soft rain.
Note that after adjusting the closing camps, the top may not lock correctly once you do get it stretched enough to finally close. You'll most likely need to get them set back to there original position in order to get a water tight seal.
I hope this helps and best of luck!
Amazing video! My soft top came factory with a sort of insulation on the inside... How would i go about getting that again?
Thanks much! I'm not familiar with any sort of insulation - is it a headliner or something else? Thanks for watching!
@@mainejason Yeahhhh kinda! Has those little buttons similar to the ones in the storage compartment to secure it in it seems... Not too sure 🤔 Id like to preserve it but see no guides to
@@mainejason Nevermind - Just figured it out hahahaha. The things you find if you look for them!
@@j6sph something like this? This may not fit your model, but it's the idea. www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CH73-USA---Z3-BMW-Z3+1.9&diagId=54_0309
Thank you for your great video, gonna fit mine soon. How long did it take you to fit the top?
Excellent! Take it slow and pay attention to the details and you'll do great. It took me way longer that it most likely will you as I was filming everything along with having to buy parts or tools I didn't know I needed. Took me a week, but I think you could certainly do it over a weekend. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your reply and the advice@@mainejason 👍
Hi Jason, one thing that I missed, mine is a manual roof, not electric, Is it going to be the same to follow please? Thanks
I cannot say for certain, but I believe the frame for the top is the same, or at least similar.
Great!
@mainejason I replaced my soft top about a month before you made this video… wish I’d known it was coming!!
Unfortunately, I didn’t think to check my sealing frame for cracks at the time and my new top looks great but my trunk is full of water with even the slightest rain.
What do you think would happen if I were to remove the bow and “repair” the sealing frame/replace butyl tape with the rest of the top still installed? I’m considering ripping the sealing frame out entirely and replacing with thicker butyl. Living in VT, I’m pretty sure it’s going to keep on cracking.
Ohhhhh, that sucks!
You should be able to lift out the bow with the top attached and either fold it back or suspend it somehow.
The problem with not having the sealing frame in there is that the rubber sealing gasket attaches to the top of that.
Maybe, if you could get the sealing frame out without breaking it into 25 pieces, you could replace the butyl tape behind it, high enough and thick enough to fill the gaps. But, that's a lot of work with no assurance!!!
That sealing frame is definitely a weak spot in the engineering...especially since it is no longer available!
Good luck to you!
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
@mainejason success! Thanks for the input. I was able to take just the rear bow & sealing frame back out without removing the top. The sealing frame came out in 5 pieces, as expected. After cleaning it up, “laminating” it with foil tape and re-installing with butyl tape, there are no leaks! I think it’ll be a little more resistant to cracks now too with the tape. Really appreciated being able to reference the video. I’m psyched! Thanks.
Hey, I'm really glad to hear the good news! Great idea with the foil tape - very resourceful. And best of all, no more water in the trunk!
Thank you for the update, and well done!
@@mainejason I have the same problem. The previous owner got the top replaced, but it's leaking into the trunk. So will have to try to get to the sealing frame and have a look at its condition. Great to hear that you managed to access it without removing the top!
I’m a tad lost on connecting to he hold down I’m not sure what you’re connecting care to further explain?
If you could please give me the timestamp of what you are referring to, I'd be happy to clarify if possible.
Pretty sure Ill be paying a body shop to do it after seeing this. #hard top next time!
I hear you. It is, indeed, a big project. I always have my eyes open for a decent hard top. If I could find one worth buying, I'd grab it.
Thank you for the comment, and thanks for watching!
What type of staple gun are you using - i don't see how its securing the roof to the bar
It is the Arrow pneumatic staple gun with, I believe 10mm stainless steel staples. The links are in the description. I also made a short review video for it. Great little gun. The bow has a channel in it that has a kind of plastic substance embedded into it. That is what you staple into. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
Aaaah now I understand - many thanks for explaining - with that knowledge and the rest of this excellent video I think I could do this
Fantastic! Give it a try 😉
Where is the link to part one?
I guess I didn't add one, but there are three ways to find it now: 1. On my channel, 2. in the description, 3. at the end of the video.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention, and thanks for watching!
What size staples did you use? I was going to order some 12mm long... is this too long?
Go with 10mm and make sure they are stainless steel so they don't rust.
I don't know why I didn't have a link to the correct ones in the description, but it is there now.
Good luck! Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
@mainejason I'm attempting mine in 10 days time. I'm very practically minded but your vid gives me confidence!
Very cool. Let me know how it goes!
What's your address? I'll send my car over next month...
Great video, however I may need to watch it a couple more times before I step out of my comfort zone...
Problem is, I'd have to watch it a few times again myself to remember how it's done!
If you jump in, just take your time and don't force anything - you'll do fine!
Thanks for watching ☺️
What size are the rivets?
There is a link to the exact rivets I used in the description - I got them from McMaster-Carr. I believe they were 1/8" diameter.
Thank you for watching!
good shit guy.
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Wow! Do you live near Alabama? If so, would you be an assistant and work for beer? Sigh....looks scary.
Lol - I'm a little too far north, but certainly not opposed to beer payment 😄
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Do you know anyone that can Replace mine I am In Los Angeles
Sorry, I don't. I did mine myself because I couldn't find anyone in Maine either.
Any consideration to doing it yourself?
Can anyone who has completed this job estimate the number of hours it took? This is on my list to do, but i want to budget time correctly.
It will certainly depend on one's comfort level with using tools and working with mechanical as well as fabric materials. It will also depend on if all the appropriate tools are available.
I'd say an actual installer could do it in a half day. A competent diy'er could perhaps do it in a day, but I'd budget 2.
I'd be curious to know how much time others took as well.
I'd say I'm a competent DIY guy, and I will have all appropriate tools on hand before starting.
I also have 3 kids in elementary school, so I'll budget 3 months 😂😂😂
HA!
Sounds like you are on the right track. Good luck with the project!
Jumped into this project, and things are mostly going well. However, my car has a headliner and I'm keeping the original. To preserve it i have to keep it partially installed.
Is there a reason you waited to adhere the strips to the cross bars after you attached to the front main cross bar? It seems a lot easier to start at the back and work forward. This would allow me to work over my installed headliner. Any suggestion why that approach would be bad?
I'm assuming you are referring to the steps around the 22-minute mark.
The best justification I can give for doing it the way I did ( especially with the benefit of hindsight ) is that it would be fairly difficult to know exactly how the seams and the ribs will line up.
With the front affixed first, the alignment of ribs to seams is automatic, and the strap locations are just being locked in.
My fear in working from back to front is that the locations of those seams and ribs ares a guess - if they aren't just right, they could cause the top to pucker and/or become skewed. That being said, I suppose it is possible to get everything lined up using that method, but since I've only done this once, I don't feel I'd have the experience to get it right.
Unfortunately, I have no experience with a headliner, so I can't give any advice beyond this, but I hope it helps.
Good luck with the installation, and thank you for the comment!
Im just gonna pay someone. I know I can do it but having peace of mind that it was done right by a professional is better for my mental health 🤣
I’m right there with ya. I certainly would not do it again! Thanks for watching!
Liked & subscribed! Great video, great production. I enjoyed your struggle and appreciate being convinced I need to save up and pay a professional to install a new top on my ‘99. 🤓👍🏻 Fortunately, I have a good place in town. But thanks to your educational project, I will be better able to ask informed questions. Cheers!
Thank you for the like and sub! I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you have a place that can do this type of work, by all means use them! Far easier, that's for sure.
Enjoy your Z, and thanks for watching!