Steve you have knocked it out the park once again with this one. 😮😮 Most Discus keepers will not discuss this publicly but kudos to those that will. You are the man. 😊
I love the idea of having QT tanks on hand. We have plenty of extra 20G on hand. I will have to implement your ideas. Thanks, as always, for your great content.
Hey buddy! I'm so glad you liked the QT tank ideas! It's always good to have those extra 20Gs ready to go-saves so much stress when you need them. I’m sure you’ll find a good way to set them up with your own twist. You’ve always got such great ideas too, I’m looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Thanks for always supporting, and can’t wait to see what’s next on your channel! Keep crushing it, as always! 🙌👊
Hey brother! Hope you are doing well! Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge, we all benefit on videos like this. Couple of things from my experience in regards to this video: 1. I have a 10 gallon QT tank myself, I like it around a 10 gallon because the discus won't stay in there for long and I don't have to spend that much on meds 2. If the discus aren't eating and you believe it's HIT or proto issue and give metro, I noticed that you really need to up the temp to 90 to 94 for the metro to be effective. Once they start eating, you can lower the temp and have metro in the food 3. I like to double up on the medication meaning having 2 medications at the same time, I know people don't do this and that's ok it's just me. For example I will do a levi + metro at the same time, praq + metro, Metro + Ethro, etc. 4. I noticed levi increasing the shyness or spooks the discus. Not sure why. I noticed it many times, and 2 of my discus that were beautiful specimens died in the night when i heard them bang into the glass during a levi treatment. I thought it was just me but after doing a google search I noticed others experienced this as well. 5. I like using flubendzole (pardon the spelling) instead of levi. I noticed during a fluben treatment, the discus aren't flighty, they seem to be good after just a 4 day treatment. I seen it kill flukes easily as well. I use this once every 2-3 months 6. Stringy white poop is super hard to diagnose if you don't have a microscope. It can be a bacteria, parasite or worms. I hate having to deal with discus that has stringy white poop. 7. I had the same experience as you in regards to stress making the discus sick. Put some small discus that has done well in a bare bottom tank into my planted tank with high light and in just 3-4 days that same discus started hiding in a corner + white poop + not eating. FYI - For those in your last video saying don't use beefheart, I can also attest to breeders in malayasia, china, usa, and european, austrialian breeders use beefheart. I only know of 2 well known breeders who don't use beefheart and use some tuna, clam, mussels, etc variant. Unless someone finds a better and close to cheaper alternative, it's the only real way that is proven to get your discus up to size.
Hey @the_DOS, thanks so much for sharing your experience and insights! This kind of detailed feedback is pure gold for everyone in the community, especially those who are newer to discus care. I really appreciate you highlighting your approach-there’s so much value in hearing how other experienced hobbyists manage treatment protocols. You've got some great points here: Totally agree on the smaller QT tank. A 10-gallon setup makes sense for quick treatments, and it’s definitely more efficient on meds, especially when they’re only in there for a short time. Excellent tip on raising the temperature with metro! Pushing it up to 90-94°F really can make a difference for effectiveness. I’ve noticed the same, and as you said, once they’re back to eating, it’s easier to drop the temp and incorporate metro into the food. Doubling up on medications is an approach I’ve heard about and seen used by others too. Having a tailored combination like levi + metro or prazi + metro can really be a game-changer depending on the symptoms. Interesting point about levamisole causing spookiness. I’ve had similar experiences with it, but it’s helpful to hear others are noticing it too-always looking for ways to minimize stress during treatments. Flubendazole as an alternative is a great idea, especially if it seems to be less stressful on the fish. Thanks for suggesting it as a fluke treatment with less impact on their behavior. You’re spot-on about the frustration with stringy white poop. Without a microscope, it can be a guessing game since it could indicate a range of issues. Definitely one of the tougher aspects of discus care. The planted tank stress example resonates. Sometimes, the change in environment is enough to set off symptoms, even if they were healthy in the bare-bottom setup. And thank you for backing up the beefheart discussion. You’re right-many respected breeders worldwide rely on it because it’s effective for growth and conditioning. Until there’s a similarly affordable and proven alternative, it’s going to remain a go-to staple for a lot of discus keepers. Again, thank you for the detailed comment-it’s truly valuable to hear this firsthand experience. Looking forward to more discussions like this!
Totally agree with you, @pantherlax23! Water quality issues are by far the biggest culprit when discus aren’t doing well, way more often than parasites or lighting issues. Keeping water conditions stable makes a huge difference for their health. Great point!
One of your most important videos! Thanks! I've been working a lot and no time to participate here with my comments and questions... today I worked only half day. Ha! In my case, planing to get 3 or more medium sized wild discus for my Altum 210 gallon system, for example, I think I would have a 75gallon system as the quarantine system running, and treat the fish systematically in smaller tanks, returning them to the 75gallon after each treatment for a total 6 month period. Please let me know what do you think? The same happens here... I just can't risk my Altums, besides having to treat a 220 gallon with lots of medicine. The low light is so very important!!!! I've noticed that is also true to my wild Altums as well. Best light is still the old fluorescent lamp, not LEDs! It's a huge factor for their health IMO! Also, to leave some nice shaded area for them as a refuge. Natural ambient light is the best in most cases. Imperative for their health!! I have my lights on only for about 7 to 8 hours a day. The less light the better is for their health. I'm sure the same happens with discus. One side note in the subject of adaptation to the aquarium life... I don't swallow some of theories of getting wild angelfish or discus to adapt to "tap water" in any means. I understand that they are able to well support the changes in a long run, but I don't believe they are able to change their core in their genetics to solidify that adaptation and therefore it is one of the reasons why we see their vulnerability to any drastic changes and stress. Their immune system depends on how strong they are due to the environmental conditions, period. If their genes were built to be alive in such harsh conditions (for example the strong acidic pH they are originally found in the Amazon), why not skip all adaptation processes for our comfort, of using "tap water" (by the way, the term "tap water" is so relative around the world. Inconsistent term to say the least!), and use RO and everything else to resemble their original environment the best we can, right? I know that production of fish (the breeding process), and the aspect of selling them to the the general public depends on those easier abilities to maneuver the business, and I'm not judging that, but I still think the very best way to keep these organisms is to resemble their natural habitat. The pH, temperature, and conductivity are some of the most important aspects we know about the water in their natural habitats. I believe that when we offer such conditions to any generation of these fishes they will do better. It's the same as food in my opinion. That's why I love when you talk about the REAL FOOD you give them!! All aspects contribute to the long run and mainly the health of these animals. It's very hard to believe that their genes are able to shift to what we want to offer in any of those parameters. Of course we have more to add like the trace elements, humic acid, fulvic acid, as you have been explaining. I would love to hear more from you about that subject. I have some notes about how to use the medicines... would love to have a clear vision in practical way to treat wild discus with the systematic levamisole/ metronidazole/ praziquantel treatments, with the proper intervals and everything.. So much to learn! Thanks again!!!!!
"Thanks so much, Alex! I'm really glad you found the video helpful. It sounds like you're putting a lot of thought and care into your setup with the Altums and wild discus, and your quarantine approach is spot-on, especially with a dedicated 75-gallon system. That six-month period sounds ideal for ensuring any new fish are fully adapted and healthy before they go into your main tank. Totally agree on the lighting-keeping it low is key for these wild species to feel at home, and natural ambient light is perfect for their health. And I completely agree about the water parameters; there's no real replacement for mimicking their natural environment as closely as possible. Using RO water and adjusting trace elements is a great way to give them what they need. Love hearing that you’re committed to real food and high water quality for them-those details make all the difference in the long run. Let me know if you'd like any further insights on the systematic treatments; I'd be happy to help! Thanks again for your comment!"
@@shelleraquatics Thank you so much! Yes, I do understand some things about each treatment independently, but would be amazing if you could make a video explaining each treatment in order, with a practical view, including explaining the time frame of the intervals and observations in regards to each case. Everything well defined and clear, as you always do. A complete video as the major reference about the procedures of the 3 treatments you mentioned for a quarantine setup for multiple wild discus. Perhaps using a major setup as the "resting tank", as I suggested, between treatments and using separate smaller tanks for the sake of better ability with the meds. So many variables in regards to discus alone... like limitations of numbers of fish per treatment in the same tank/ gallons, minimum number of fish to acquire in order to avoid any stress in the long run (I know this subject alone would probably call for a video in itself), observations in order to know when treatment is not needed, if so, etc... You could also compare in the same video the differences between treating wild and domestic discus, for example. Always great to learn here! Thanks again!!!
Hey I had a doubt about my breeding pair... So currently they are on the metro treatment with salt should I do the levamisole and prazi treatment too and if so what is the dosage in grams as I cant get your med kit where I live so I'll have to go with tablets and this is just pre medication before they get into breeding as i dont want the fry gettinf sick. Thanks in advance
Thank you for reaching out, and I'm glad to hear you're being proactive in preparing your breeding pair! For pre-treatment, a combination approach that covers a broad spectrum of potential parasites and bacteria is generally beneficial. Typically, I recommend starting with metro and salt, as these address common bacterial concerns. After allowing the fish a rest period, I introduce treatments for internal and external parasites to ensure the breeding pair is as healthy as possible. That said, it’s essential to use medications with known purity and concentration. Many commercial products have added fillers or combine treatments, which can make dosages less predictable and potentially risky. With my own products, I can ensure 99.9% purity, but dosages based on this level of concentration might not apply to other formulations, making it ineffective and, most importantly, irresponsible to recommend these dosages in cases where the concentration is unknown. If you'd like, feel free to share the products you're using, and I can look into their potency and perhaps offer some guidance. Also, let me know what country you're in, as I may be able to suggest locally available options. Thanks again for your comment! I'm here if you have any further questions.
@@shelleraquatics Okay so as of now I've done 4 treatments of metro and salt every 12 hrs and next i want to do a prazi treatment and a pp bath to finish it off the prazi tablet available is a dog dewormer and it contains 0.5 gms (50 mg) of prazi per tablet and i'm treating a 20 gallon tank And this tablet also contains 0.02 gm (2mg) of ivermectin and i genuinely wish i had your med kit it would make things so much easier maybe i can ask my aunt to get it when she comes from the states also while i'm at it let me just add i'm not able to find fulvic acid but i found that they sell 80% fulvic acid powder could i use that maybe a gram in 20 gallons and add a few drops to my discus tank? also thanks alot for all the information, your channel is a gold mine and has helped me alot
@@shelleraquatics also would love to share a video of the breeding pair in case i'm not able to see something your eyes might be able to catch if that's possible please do let me know and feel free to say no.... Thanks in Advance also I'm from India but the tablets that Google shows are not available in my local medical stores.
Steve you have knocked it out the park once again with this one. 😮😮 Most Discus keepers will not discuss this publicly but kudos to those that will. You are the man. 😊
I appreciate You!
I love the idea of having QT tanks on hand. We have plenty of extra 20G on hand. I will have to implement your ideas. Thanks, as always, for your great content.
Hey buddy! I'm so glad you liked the QT tank ideas! It's always good to have those extra 20Gs ready to go-saves so much stress when you need them. I’m sure you’ll find a good way to set them up with your own twist. You’ve always got such great ideas too, I’m looking forward to seeing what you come up with. Thanks for always supporting, and can’t wait to see what’s next on your channel! Keep crushing it, as always! 🙌👊
Hey brother! Hope you are doing well! Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge, we all benefit on videos like this.
Couple of things from my experience in regards to this video:
1. I have a 10 gallon QT tank myself, I like it around a 10 gallon because the discus won't stay in there for long and I don't have to spend that much on meds
2. If the discus aren't eating and you believe it's HIT or proto issue and give metro, I noticed that you really need to up the temp to 90 to 94 for the metro to be effective. Once they start eating, you can lower the temp and have metro in the food
3. I like to double up on the medication meaning having 2 medications at the same time, I know people don't do this and that's ok it's just me. For example I will do a levi + metro at the same time, praq + metro, Metro + Ethro, etc.
4. I noticed levi increasing the shyness or spooks the discus. Not sure why. I noticed it many times, and 2 of my discus that were beautiful specimens died in the night when i heard them bang into the glass during a levi treatment. I thought it was just me but after doing a google search I noticed others experienced this as well.
5. I like using flubendzole (pardon the spelling) instead of levi. I noticed during a fluben treatment, the discus aren't flighty, they seem to be good after just a 4 day treatment. I seen it kill flukes easily as well. I use this once every 2-3 months
6. Stringy white poop is super hard to diagnose if you don't have a microscope. It can be a bacteria, parasite or worms. I hate having to deal with discus that has stringy white poop.
7. I had the same experience as you in regards to stress making the discus sick. Put some small discus that has done well in a bare bottom tank into my planted tank with high light and in just 3-4 days that same discus started hiding in a corner + white poop + not eating.
FYI - For those in your last video saying don't use beefheart, I can also attest to breeders in malayasia, china, usa, and european, austrialian breeders use beefheart. I only know of 2 well known breeders who don't use beefheart and use some tuna, clam, mussels, etc variant. Unless someone finds a better and close to cheaper alternative, it's the only real way that is proven to get your discus up to size.
Hey @the_DOS, thanks so much for sharing your experience and insights! This kind of detailed feedback is pure gold for everyone in the community, especially those who are newer to discus care. I really appreciate you highlighting your approach-there’s so much value in hearing how other experienced hobbyists manage treatment protocols.
You've got some great points here:
Totally agree on the smaller QT tank. A 10-gallon setup makes sense for quick treatments, and it’s definitely more efficient on meds, especially when they’re only in there for a short time.
Excellent tip on raising the temperature with metro! Pushing it up to 90-94°F really can make a difference for effectiveness. I’ve noticed the same, and as you said, once they’re back to eating, it’s easier to drop the temp and incorporate metro into the food.
Doubling up on medications is an approach I’ve heard about and seen used by others too. Having a tailored combination like levi + metro or prazi + metro can really be a game-changer depending on the symptoms.
Interesting point about levamisole causing spookiness. I’ve had similar experiences with it, but it’s helpful to hear others are noticing it too-always looking for ways to minimize stress during treatments.
Flubendazole as an alternative is a great idea, especially if it seems to be less stressful on the fish. Thanks for suggesting it as a fluke treatment with less impact on their behavior.
You’re spot-on about the frustration with stringy white poop. Without a microscope, it can be a guessing game since it could indicate a range of issues. Definitely one of the tougher aspects of discus care.
The planted tank stress example resonates. Sometimes, the change in environment is enough to set off symptoms, even if they were healthy in the bare-bottom setup.
And thank you for backing up the beefheart discussion. You’re right-many respected breeders worldwide rely on it because it’s effective for growth and conditioning. Until there’s a similarly affordable and proven alternative, it’s going to remain a go-to staple for a lot of discus keepers.
Again, thank you for the detailed comment-it’s truly valuable to hear this firsthand experience. Looking forward to more discussions like this!
@@shelleraquatics Thank you for responding and providing your thoughts! Have a great weekend!!
Great information in the video. Thank you
Thank you for your support 🙏
Great video!
Thank you for your kind words 🙏 😊
Awesome. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! Great to see you again!
Great video.
Thanks!
gr8
Thank you!
Agree with you totally that AT LEAST 80% of the time it's NOT parasites, but I would say the 80% of that 80% it's a water issue vs lighting
Totally agree with you, @pantherlax23! Water quality issues are by far the biggest culprit when discus aren’t doing well, way more often than parasites or lighting issues. Keeping water conditions stable makes a huge difference for their health. Great point!
One of your most important videos! Thanks!
I've been working a lot and no time to participate here with my comments and questions... today I worked only half day. Ha!
In my case, planing to get 3 or more medium sized wild discus for my Altum 210 gallon system, for example, I think I would have a 75gallon system as the quarantine system running, and treat the fish systematically in smaller tanks, returning them to the 75gallon after each treatment for a total 6 month period. Please let me know what do you think? The same happens here... I just can't risk my Altums, besides having to treat a 220 gallon with lots of medicine.
The low light is so very important!!!! I've noticed that is also true to my wild Altums as well. Best light is still the old fluorescent lamp, not LEDs! It's a huge factor for their health IMO! Also, to leave some nice shaded area for them as a refuge. Natural ambient light is the best in most cases. Imperative for their health!! I have my lights on only for about 7 to 8 hours a day. The less light the better is for their health. I'm sure the same happens with discus.
One side note in the subject of adaptation to the aquarium life... I don't swallow some of theories of getting wild angelfish or discus to adapt to "tap water" in any means. I understand that they are able to well support the changes in a long run, but I don't believe they are able to change their core in their genetics to solidify that adaptation and therefore it is one of the reasons why we see their vulnerability to any drastic changes and stress. Their immune system depends on how strong they are due to the environmental conditions, period. If their genes were built to be alive in such harsh conditions (for example the strong acidic pH they are originally found in the Amazon), why not skip all adaptation processes for our comfort, of using "tap water" (by the way, the term "tap water" is so relative around the world. Inconsistent term to say the least!), and use RO and everything else to resemble their original environment the best we can, right? I know that production of fish (the breeding process), and the aspect of selling them to the the general public depends on those easier abilities to maneuver the business, and I'm not judging that, but I still think the very best way to keep these organisms is to resemble their natural habitat. The pH, temperature, and conductivity are some of the most important aspects we know about the water in their natural habitats. I believe that when we offer such conditions to any generation of these fishes they will do better. It's the same as food in my opinion. That's why I love when you talk about the REAL FOOD you give them!! All aspects contribute to the long run and mainly the health of these animals. It's very hard to believe that their genes are able to shift to what we want to offer in any of those parameters. Of course we have more to add like the trace elements, humic acid, fulvic acid, as you have been explaining. I would love to hear more from you about that subject.
I have some notes about how to use the medicines... would love to have a clear vision in practical way to treat wild discus with the systematic levamisole/ metronidazole/ praziquantel treatments, with the proper intervals and everything..
So much to learn!
Thanks again!!!!!
"Thanks so much, Alex! I'm really glad you found the video helpful. It sounds like you're putting a lot of thought and care into your setup with the Altums and wild discus, and your quarantine approach is spot-on, especially with a dedicated 75-gallon system. That six-month period sounds ideal for ensuring any new fish are fully adapted and healthy before they go into your main tank.
Totally agree on the lighting-keeping it low is key for these wild species to feel at home, and natural ambient light is perfect for their health. And I completely agree about the water parameters; there's no real replacement for mimicking their natural environment as closely as possible. Using RO water and adjusting trace elements is a great way to give them what they need. Love hearing that you’re committed to real food and high water quality for them-those details make all the difference in the long run. Let me know if you'd like any further insights on the systematic treatments; I'd be happy to help! Thanks again for your comment!"
@@shelleraquatics Thank you so much!
Yes, I do understand some things about each treatment independently, but would be amazing if you could make a video explaining each treatment in order, with a practical view, including explaining the time frame of the intervals and observations in regards to each case. Everything well defined and clear, as you always do. A complete video as the major reference about the procedures of the 3 treatments you mentioned for a quarantine setup for multiple wild discus. Perhaps using a major setup as the "resting tank", as I suggested, between treatments and using separate smaller tanks for the sake of better ability with the meds. So many variables in regards to discus alone... like limitations of numbers of fish per treatment in the same tank/ gallons, minimum number of fish to acquire in order to avoid any stress in the long run (I know this subject alone would probably call for a video in itself), observations in order to know when treatment is not needed, if so, etc... You could also compare in the same video the differences between treating wild and domestic discus, for example.
Always great to learn here!
Thanks again!!!
Great honesty 👍✌️🇨🇦 going to look for sales on q tank 👍
Cool 👍Thank you so much, I truly appreciate your feedback!
Hey I had a doubt about my breeding pair... So currently they are on the metro treatment with salt should I do the levamisole and prazi treatment too and if so what is the dosage in grams as I cant get your med kit where I live so I'll have to go with tablets and this is just pre medication before they get into breeding as i dont want the fry gettinf sick. Thanks in advance
Thank you for reaching out, and I'm glad to hear you're being proactive in preparing your breeding pair! For pre-treatment, a combination approach that covers a broad spectrum of potential parasites and bacteria is generally beneficial. Typically, I recommend starting with metro and salt, as these address common bacterial concerns. After allowing the fish a rest period, I introduce treatments for internal and external parasites to ensure the breeding pair is as healthy as possible.
That said, it’s essential to use medications with known purity and concentration. Many commercial products have added fillers or combine treatments, which can make dosages less predictable and potentially risky. With my own products, I can ensure 99.9% purity, but dosages based on this level of concentration might not apply to other formulations, making it ineffective and, most importantly, irresponsible to recommend these dosages in cases where the concentration is unknown.
If you'd like, feel free to share the products you're using, and I can look into their potency and perhaps offer some guidance. Also, let me know what country you're in, as I may be able to suggest locally available options.
Thanks again for your comment! I'm here if you have any further questions.
@@shelleraquatics Okay so as of now I've done 4 treatments of metro and salt every 12 hrs and next i want to do a prazi treatment and a pp bath to finish it off the prazi tablet available is a dog dewormer and it contains 0.5 gms (50 mg) of prazi per tablet and i'm treating a 20 gallon tank And this tablet also contains 0.02 gm (2mg) of ivermectin and i genuinely wish i had your med kit it would make things so much easier maybe i can ask my aunt to get it when she comes from the states also while i'm at it let me just add i'm not able to find fulvic acid but i found that they sell 80% fulvic acid powder could i use that maybe a gram in 20 gallons and add a few drops to my discus tank? also thanks alot for all the information, your channel is a gold mine and has helped me alot
@@shelleraquatics also would love to share a video of the breeding pair in case i'm not able to see something your eyes might be able to catch if that's possible please do let me know and feel free to say no.... Thanks in Advance also I'm from India but the tablets that Google shows are not available in my local medical stores.