Hey Zane - I noticed you didn’t place a gap (with strapping) between the insulation and the roofing material. When using rigid foam insulation, do you not need that gap? (On either the roof or the walls?). Thanks! I’m building a little cabin and gathering lots of tips and tricks from your videos! Thanks.
So, the XPS (extruded poly styrene) is considered a vapor barrier if Seams are taped in most cases. In my wall wall system, I installed the vapor barrier between the first layer of card-deck and the rigid foam (XPS). This will allow the outer side of wall system to breathe a bit and keep moisture off the inside. My system is built tightly and will work as a built-in place SIPS panel. You can build the gap into the system (considered a rain screen) if you are worried about eventual mold. I am not worried about the mold because the climate here, and I don't want to invite insects in. If you build with the air gap make sure have a good plan for big screen. In short, many build the gaps into their roof and wall system to allow air to neutralize any mold (depends on climate), but just as many roof and wall systems are built this way. Again, my wall and roof systems both have vapor barrier installed directly over structural sheathing. The wall system has plenty of breath-ability because of the use of the car-decking. The roof system has a little less breath-ability, but the pitch is 18 & 12 and excellent drainage (if needed), as well as the ribbing...
@@CROWSFOOT great. Thanks for all that info! I’ve given my whole thing some thought, and in watching your 10x12 cabin build with no insulation and you saying it was cozy in 17 degrees F, I’m tempted to just go that route (for the walls, anyway). I’m milling my own lumber for the cabin, so I would definitely then need that air gap if I was to insulate, as most of the wood I’m building with is fairly green. It’s now got me thinking about how I can make my own T&G boards out of my own milled lumber. (My cabin build is at a very remote and challenging location so I’m trying to build it very strategically). I’m north of you in southern BC.
I wouldn't worry too much about breath-ability. Only an issue if you insulate. In my opinion insulation is over rated. My little 10x12 stays super cozy...often TOO hot in sub freezing temperatures. As far as making your own car-deck you might consider using dado blades on table saw or router table it.
@@CROWSFOOT perfect - just what I needed to hear! (About the insulation). It would simplify my situation a lot to just use a T&G board wall system like you did. Then the inside and outside finishes are both done which = a lot less milling and labour for me! My little cabin is going to be a post and beam/mini timber frame just like yours, so I was stoked to find your channel.
Love your attention to detail. Well done on the build so far. Greetings from South Africa 🇿🇦
Thank you Annette!
Hey Zane - I noticed you didn’t place a gap (with strapping) between the insulation and the roofing material. When using rigid foam insulation, do you not need that gap? (On either the roof or the walls?). Thanks! I’m building a little cabin and gathering lots of tips and tricks from your videos! Thanks.
So, the XPS (extruded poly styrene) is considered a vapor barrier if Seams are taped in most cases. In my wall wall system, I installed the vapor barrier between the first layer of card-deck and the rigid foam (XPS). This will allow the outer side of wall system to breathe a bit and keep moisture off the inside. My system is built tightly and will work as a built-in place SIPS panel. You can build the gap into the system (considered a rain screen) if you are worried about eventual mold. I am not worried about the mold because the climate here, and I don't want to invite insects in. If you build with the air gap make sure have a good plan for big screen. In short, many build the gaps into their roof and wall system to allow air to neutralize any mold (depends on climate), but just as many roof and wall systems are built this way. Again, my wall and roof systems both have vapor barrier installed directly over structural sheathing. The wall system has plenty of breath-ability because of the use of the car-decking. The roof system has a little less breath-ability, but the pitch is 18 & 12 and excellent drainage (if needed), as well as the ribbing...
I meant to write BUG-screen!
@@CROWSFOOT great. Thanks for all that info! I’ve given my whole thing some thought, and in watching your 10x12 cabin build with no insulation and you saying it was cozy in 17 degrees F, I’m tempted to just go that route (for the walls, anyway).
I’m milling my own lumber for the cabin, so I would definitely then need that air gap if I was to insulate, as most of the wood I’m building with is fairly green. It’s now got me thinking about how I can make my own T&G boards out of my own milled lumber. (My cabin build is at a very remote and challenging location so I’m trying to build it very strategically). I’m north of you in southern BC.
I wouldn't worry too much about breath-ability. Only an issue if you insulate.
In my opinion insulation is over rated. My little 10x12 stays super cozy...often TOO hot in sub freezing temperatures.
As far as making your own car-deck you might consider using dado blades on table saw or router table it.
@@CROWSFOOT perfect - just what I needed to hear! (About the insulation). It would simplify my situation a lot to just use a T&G board wall system like you did. Then the inside and outside finishes are both done which = a lot less milling and labour for me!
My little cabin is going to be a post and beam/mini timber frame just like yours, so I was stoked to find your channel.
Thank You This video made me think of Black Forest Colo. in the mid 70s
Big snow flakes and the stillness of the forest.
Looking good 👍🇩🇰🇩🇰😁
Thank you! Cheers!
looking good.....Can I ask a round about area you are ? Tracey from Maumelle, Arkansas
North west