Click MORE for additional information on VIDEO CHAPTERS and TIMESTAMPS. We EDIT our subtitles! - Select English for the best international translation. ** Please LIKE and SUBSCRIBE and purchase parts from www.BrocksPerformance.com if you enjoy our channel!**
As a Marine Technician and K5 Hayabusa Owner, you really give me the confidence to go from working on boats, to my own bike. Thanks so much for this EDUCATIONAL video.
Man these videos are helping us so much at teamwrightous racing. You have no idea Brock. Thanks so much for all the wealth of knowledge. You have helped us grow so much over the years
So many tips and tricks. Love the cardboard trick. Also the way you lengthened the plunger on the dial indicator. All these little things add up. Can't thank you enough for making this series! I will watch this a few more times to see what I missed!
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos 👍 Wish I had this one a few years ago when it took me an absolute age to check cam timing and be sure it was correct 🤨
Man, i love you!! we are peas in a pod. The "no oil" tape on switches, 9 times outta 10 aftermarket parts headache., everyday here..and so many more. keep up the good vids!!
49:34 😂 I watched 15-20 times then about 30 seconds later I realized you said bucket. 🤷♂️ thanks for all the knowledge you share Brock. It’s greatly appreciated. I really enjoy your videos.
BRILLIANT SIR! THANK YOU SO MUCH! Checking my Busa valve clearances this winter, 15000 miles on the clock, hoping all good but brain prepping if adjustment is required 😁👍🏻 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🏴
Yet again another great video I’ll have to watch it 20 more times to be in step with you but my brain isn’t melted lol 10 years ago I would have been way overwhelmed
nice work and thanks for putting this out.ive got 281332 miles on mine all back road boogie woogie.did clutch at 275 cause my buddy at shop was like Damn.keep em tuned and they run forever.plugs oil and air filters.but love this damn bike.still gets 42mpg playing.turned a 6.85 eighth mile no strech just playing sept 22. Anyway Love video please keep em coming do crank and pistons next.just in case.thought i was only one who used cardboard trick Good stuff
The absolute best informative videos ever. My 18 gsxr 1000R is coming up for a check. Extremely frustrating trying to find a shim kit for the possible job. Suzuki wants a grand for the shim kit. I have some 7.48 from my K5. Trying to understand the new cam followers. The only thing that makes sense is they constantly have a light spring load on them. Other wise they would be bouncing after a cam push. I'm sure I'll understand after seeing it. Hopefully I don't have to adjust any. It took me all day doing them for the first time on my K5. Really appreciate all of your super informative videos
@@BrockDavidson is that your top choice and would you guys this gen gsxr 1000 is 7.48? I have a bunch left over from doing them on my 05 gsxr 1000. Thanks again Brock
@@BrockDavidson sorry I didn't proof read that mess. I can't find any info on 2018 gsxr 1000 cam shim size. I have some 7.48mm OD shims from my 05 gsxr 1000 days. Just wondering if you knew the size? I did look everywhere for the size without luck. The other part of that question. Is there a better brand shim out there besides hotcams? Thanks!
These videos are very interesting. Thanks a lot for taking the time to do that. I have a question regarding the measurements you did with your gauge to find the location of the cam lobe top. Let's take the calculation for the intake valve. I'm just gonna explain my reasoning, please tell me where I go wrong. If it is a symmetric cam, it means that the cam lobe center is exactly in the middle of the two measurements, in degrees, at 50thou, right? If TDC is 0°50: 50 thou open is @ 6° ATDC == 6° absolute 50 thou close is @ 59° ABDC == 59° + 180° = 239° absolute The delta between these two measurements is then: d = 239° - 6° = 233° Since the top of the cam lobe is between the two measurements, then it means that it is d/2 = 233°/2 = 116,5° AFTER the first measurement ---> Cam lobe top sits @6+ + 116.5+ = 122.5° With your method it seems to me that you are only calculating the angle between the first measurement and the top of the lobe, not its placement relative to TDC. Is that your goal? Did I miss anything? Moreover, if the lobe is symmetric, shouldn't its top be where you have the max lift? Thanks in advance and keep up the good work!!
There are multiple ways to calculate lobe centers. I prefer the method shown for its simplicity and disregard for symmetry. We could also use: 6+16+180=202, divide by 2=101, subtract 6 from 101 = 95. Additionally, assuming the cam is symmetrically ground, the lobe center would be in the center of the lobe at peak lift. Since this point occurs in the center of a radius, we can measure before and after measured peak lift and divide this number by 1/2 also. I like simplicity and I hate to assume. Without a cam dr. (expensive) or graphing the cams completely (tedious and extremely time-consuming) it's very difficult to determine if a cam is truly symmetrical. This question is also an example of the long-winded theoretical bench racing discussions that I try to avoid on this channel (no offense). Real-world practical experience tends to make my engineer friends' heads explode, but I am a firm believer in the KISS principle ;). This link goes into more detail if you are interested: bit.ly/3dYpSfr
@@BrockDavidson Thanks for taking the time to answer :) Much appreciated. I'm just getting into the workings of engines and I'm trying to understand what is happening here. I would never pretend to say that your method is not the right one! The question about the cam center bein at the max lift was purely to make sure I that I had the functioning of the cam right im my mind. I think I found my mistake. I assumed before that the cam would do a revolution around its axis over 1 cycle of the crankshaft but this is not possible since the piston goes up and down twice for a single valve opening event in a 4 stroke motor. So the crankshaft does 2 turns while the cam shaft does only 1. Now our methods agree :)
I have just done my cam chain on my gen 1. I’ve watched all three videos multiple times and I can’t wait for the rest of the story. I’m curious if you’re going to take the motor out of the frame. I found that taking it out would be much much easier then doing it with it in the bike.love the videos keep them coming
Hey Brock, Crispy from UK 🇬🇧 , great to see people sharing informative videos like this mate. Although according to your measurements, you should have EX 85 IN 122.5 on the cam lobe centre line calculations (don’t shoot the messenger 😅) Nice to see you got her running sweet again 😊 Out of curiosity, who distributes your products this side of the pond?
@@BrockDavidson Yes, seeing the intake valve open 6 degrees ATDC on this bike was a sure sign of a problem. I’ve seen more than a few bikes with cams timed incorrectly as I’m sure you have too. I’d imagine it’s a completely different bike to ride now 😎👍🏻
I notice the handlebar risers, looks exactly the same as the ones I make… :)I use the OEM (Suzuki) feeler gauges, they are the best, but they are metric…
Hi Brock got a question for you when you were measuring the valve clearance. Does it matter whether or not the cam timing was OK? At the end of part 2 you discovered that the timing was off. if the timing is off if you turn the engine to TDC the piston will be in the correct position, but not the cam. My question is does it matter that the timing was off when you measured. Should this be a last check if you know the timing is off? I own a 2023 Hayabusa and recently my bike all of a sudden went down. I was riding to the gym and all of a sudden I lost power, and big plumes of white smoke started coming out of the tail pipe. I immediately went home about 2 miles away. When I got home i noticed that the was some oil in the exhaust. When I took the fairings off and I got into the air box my heart sank because what I saw was small metal bits in the scattered about. Initially thought something was broken, but upon closer inspection of the debris it appeared to be soft in material much like the cylinder head gasket. Not sure if this true I am going to start with pressure testing the valves and leak tests and inspecting the components to the current service manual. LOL I think it happened because of what you said at the end of part 2. I did all of those things you talked about. I unlocked the ECU and I changed the exhaust to a brocks alien head 2 (I really love the sound, loudest Busa on the road). I think the combination of raising the rev limit, installing a racing racing exhaust, and riding hard 100% of the time took my bike down. While my bike is a 2023 not a lot at the core of the mechanical design has changed, so your videos have been a big reference in trying to diagnose my problems. Thanks man you rock. I also saw your CAM swap vid. I actually feel comfortable doing So that may be the next update at the end of the season
Please perform a leak and compression test on your engine. And do not start it until you know what is broken. Unfortunately white smoke and oil in the exhaust are telltale signs of a dropped valve or some other type of top-end catastrophe... Starting the bike in this condition just damages more parts.
Thanks Brock. I've been looking for this kind of information. Some others do it but not as clearly and knowledgeable as you do. I have a sports racer with a 1300R Hayabusa engine and it's extremely hard to find someone with experience to work on it. The bike shops don't want to touch it because the engines not connected to a bike and the car places typically don't have experience with motorcycle engines. If anybody knows a good shop in the Pittsburgh, PA area that will work on my Sports Racer, please let me know. Thanks!
But Brock!.....Mr Squiddle wants his revs!! 12,200 simply won't do! He needs his 12,800 revs to feel like he can impress all his crustacean friends!! His friendly local ECU flasher said he can get 0.000014 more horsepower by extending the rev limiter! On another note.... Yamaha stopped allowing ECU flashers to extend their rev limiters, at least from what I've seen over at Mafia Moore.
Chris does an EXCELLENT job of working with the limited tool box at his disposal - BT Moto has a completely different tool box: brentuningmoto.com/motorcycle_brands/yamaha/
@@BrockDavidson it's all good. I caught it in another episode you did. And didn't think about it jumping the crank gear. Hope this wasn't a spoiler for the next episode. Lol. It's been an interesting watch for sure. I wasn't sure what the culprit was gonna be. My first thought was fuel delivery as that's common in older Suzuki and Kawasaki bikes from 15-20 years ago. But idk if these had the stopped up internal filters the in tank pumps had or not. Luckily, we have a fix for them and made a video to show how we do it. Very common issue and the repair saves a lot of money. 😁
Hey Brock I’m out of Xenia Ohio and just bought a bike that may have some history with you. I’d like to touch base and go over the bike if you have time.
I find a much easier way to find number one cylinder TDC is to find BDC on cylinder number two using a long threaded rod. BDCon cylinder number two should be TDC on number one. If it isn’t you’ve got much bigger problems…. No need for degree wheel.
Jesus, way off. if I recall my gen1 Turbo Hayabusa was set to 105 intake and 105 exhaust. I want to say factory was like 103 / 107 but it's been so long ago.
1:01:16 even Brock says the same thing that I have known and hate it is when people on purpose hit the rev limiters. I cringe!! No load doing damage!! Even with a load it is not good but under load you have less chance of doing damage. Do not over rev! Do not hit your rev chip!!
My bike is doing the same thing. It falls on its face at 7k rpm then the FI light comes on. I tried new injectors, new fuel pump, different ECM, and I was gonna try the pulse ignition trigger next. I really need to know if it’s the timing chain!!! I have a 2007 Hayabusa
@@BrockDavidson I haven’t gotten any numbers off it because I did actually have one bad injector, so I had thought that was my problem. But it does just like your buddies bike, it stutters at 7k rpm under power. It won’t do it in neutral. It’s the original timing chain, I have 25k miles on it, and I’ve been drag racing the hall out of it for the past 2 years.
One of our racers says (comment in the last video by Ransom Holbrook) your can start the engine, then unplug the cam position sensor. If the bike revs properly, the cam timing is too far out of the window of operation. Try that and let me know what you find.
@@BrockDavidson C24 and C27. So I switched out the ignition coil packs but it gave me the same FI code again. I did like you said and disconnected the cam position sensor and it ran the exact same
Brock, I think you are off direction here. The miss is definitely electrical (spark ignition) related. I would be checking crank triggers, regulator voltage and coil packs. Engines will still run with a huge variation on cam timing. If the voltage rectifier/regulator is blown or connectors melted, you will get way too high battery voltage and overcharging, causing problems. Check the rectifier connectors for melting and the wiring.
@@BrockDavidson thanks Brock it's my first busa and your video helped me tremendously with replacing air box valve cover gasket coils and plugs. I'll look into both options
Check the lift at overlap. The int stock is .088 a d Ex is .085 approximately. See what you get. I’m curious. Also doing the ex in the frame like that with the indicator at that angle with the valve stem gives you a inaccurate reading
Click MORE for additional information on VIDEO CHAPTERS and TIMESTAMPS. We EDIT our subtitles! - Select English for the best international translation. ** Please LIKE and SUBSCRIBE and purchase parts from www.BrocksPerformance.com if you enjoy our channel!**
love it, don't do stupid shit you fool
As a Marine Technician and K5 Hayabusa Owner, you really give me the confidence to go from working on boats, to my own bike. Thanks so much for this EDUCATIONAL video.
Man these videos are helping us so much at teamwrightous racing. You have no idea Brock. Thanks so much for all the wealth of knowledge. You have helped us grow so much over the years
@Kenneth Carmack - Glad they help! We try to provide info. to help street as well as track enthusiasts.
So many tips and tricks. Love the cardboard trick. Also the way you lengthened the plunger on the dial indicator. All these little things add up. Can't thank you enough for making this series! I will watch this a few more times to see what I missed!
I LOVE THIS HAYABUSA SERIES
Excellent video, I learned quite a bit about the process of these procedures and the concepts behind using them. Thanks Brock!
I wish id watched this before I worked on my Gen1. Superb video thank you
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos 👍 Wish I had this one a few years ago when it took me an absolute age to check cam timing and be sure it was correct 🤨
Man, i love you!! we are peas in a pod. The "no oil" tape on switches, 9 times outta 10 aftermarket parts headache., everyday here..and so many more. keep up the good vids!!
49:34 😂 I watched 15-20 times then about 30 seconds later I realized you said bucket. 🤷♂️ thanks for all the knowledge you share Brock. It’s greatly appreciated. I really enjoy your videos.
BRILLIANT SIR! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Checking my Busa valve clearances this winter, 15000 miles on the clock, hoping all good but brain prepping if adjustment is required 😁👍🏻
🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🏴
Thanks for the awesome tutorial sir! This is incredibly helpful for a noob like me.
Yet again another great video I’ll have to watch it 20 more times to be in step with you but my brain isn’t melted lol 10 years ago I would have been way overwhelmed
nice work and thanks for putting this out.ive got 281332 miles on mine all back road boogie woogie.did clutch at 275 cause my buddy at shop was like Damn.keep em tuned and they run forever.plugs oil and air filters.but love this damn bike.still gets 42mpg playing.turned a 6.85 eighth mile no strech just playing sept 22. Anyway Love video please keep em coming do crank and pistons next.just in case.thought i was only one who used cardboard trick Good stuff
The absolute best informative videos ever.
My 18 gsxr 1000R is coming up for a check. Extremely frustrating trying to find a shim kit for the possible job. Suzuki wants a grand for the shim kit. I have some 7.48 from my K5.
Trying to understand the new cam followers. The only thing that makes sense is they constantly have a light spring load on them. Other wise they would be bouncing after a cam push. I'm sure I'll understand after seeing it. Hopefully I don't have to adjust any. It took me all day doing them for the first time on my K5. Really appreciate all of your super informative videos
Glad you like - fyi, try hot cams for decent quality shims at a reasonable price.
@@BrockDavidson is that your top choice and would you guys this gen gsxr 1000 is 7.48? I have a bunch left over from doing them on my 05 gsxr 1000. Thanks again Brock
@@mike216ism I don't understand your question?
@@BrockDavidson sorry I didn't proof read that mess. I can't find any info on 2018 gsxr 1000 cam shim size. I have some 7.48mm OD shims from my 05 gsxr 1000 days. Just wondering if you knew the size? I did look everywhere for the size without luck. The other part of that question. Is there a better brand shim out there besides hotcams? Thanks!
@@BrockDavidson just got my can of power charge from you guys. Looking forward to getting my power back. Much appreciated help! Take care
This is awesome! These videos are so interesting and informative 👌 👏 👍! For real tyvm! 👏
These videos are very interesting. Thanks a lot for taking the time to do that.
I have a question regarding the measurements you did with your gauge to find the location of the cam lobe top.
Let's take the calculation for the intake valve. I'm just gonna explain my reasoning, please tell me where I go wrong.
If it is a symmetric cam, it means that the cam lobe center is exactly in the middle of the two measurements, in degrees, at 50thou, right?
If TDC is 0°50:
50 thou open is @ 6° ATDC == 6° absolute
50 thou close is @ 59° ABDC == 59° + 180° = 239° absolute
The delta between these two measurements is then: d = 239° - 6° = 233°
Since the top of the cam lobe is between the two measurements, then it means that it is d/2 = 233°/2 = 116,5° AFTER the first measurement ---> Cam lobe top sits @6+ + 116.5+ = 122.5°
With your method it seems to me that you are only calculating the angle between the first measurement and the top of the lobe, not its placement relative to TDC. Is that your goal? Did I miss anything?
Moreover, if the lobe is symmetric, shouldn't its top be where you have the max lift?
Thanks in advance and keep up the good work!!
There are multiple ways to calculate lobe centers. I prefer the method shown for its simplicity and disregard for symmetry. We could also use: 6+16+180=202, divide by 2=101, subtract 6 from 101 = 95. Additionally, assuming the cam is symmetrically ground, the lobe center would be in the center of the lobe at peak lift. Since this point occurs in the center of a radius, we can measure before and after measured peak lift and divide this number by 1/2 also. I like simplicity and I hate to assume. Without a cam dr. (expensive) or graphing the cams completely (tedious and extremely time-consuming) it's very difficult to determine if a cam is truly symmetrical. This question is also an example of the long-winded theoretical bench racing discussions that I try to avoid on this channel (no offense). Real-world practical experience tends to make my engineer friends' heads explode, but I am a firm believer in the KISS principle ;). This link goes into more detail if you are interested: bit.ly/3dYpSfr
@@BrockDavidson Thanks for taking the time to answer :) Much appreciated.
I'm just getting into the workings of engines and I'm trying to understand what is happening here. I would never pretend to say that your method is not the right one!
The question about the cam center bein at the max lift was purely to make sure I that I had the functioning of the cam right im my mind.
I think I found my mistake. I assumed before that the cam would do a revolution around its axis over 1 cycle of the crankshaft but this is not possible since the piston goes up and down twice for a single valve opening event in a 4 stroke motor. So the crankshaft does 2 turns while the cam shaft does only 1. Now our methods agree :)
I have just done my cam chain on my gen 1. I’ve watched all three videos multiple times and I can’t wait for the rest of the story. I’m curious if you’re going to take the motor out of the frame. I found that taking it out would be much much easier then doing it with it in the bike.love the videos keep them coming
Hey Brock, Crispy from UK 🇬🇧 , great to see people sharing informative videos like this mate.
Although according to your measurements, you should have EX 85 IN 122.5 on the cam lobe centre line calculations (don’t shoot the messenger 😅)
Nice to see you got her running sweet again 😊 Out of curiosity, who distributes your products this side of the pond?
Did you understand the part about being on the wrong side of TDC?
@@BrockDavidson Yes, seeing the intake valve open 6 degrees ATDC on this bike was a sure sign of a problem. I’ve seen more than a few bikes with cams timed incorrectly as I’m sure you have too.
I’d imagine it’s a completely different bike to ride now 😎👍🏻
Your videos are brilliant!
Brock is the man any information we get is good info we should be glad that he's sharing this I wouldn't even question him just soak it in lol 😆
Valve lash tightens up because of valve stretch, or valve seat wear. Usually anyway.. there are exceptions
wow I really appreciate my simple Harley now.
Lol, I hear you!
Thank you
what a teacher! Goat
I was thinking a worn camshaft. Can chain guides or cam chain stretch. Sounds like the last one.
I notice the handlebar risers, looks exactly the same as the ones I make… :)I use the OEM (Suzuki) feeler gauges, they are the best, but they are metric…
Watch in 1.25 or 1.5x speed and these are great vidz.
Hi Brock got a question for you when you were measuring the valve clearance. Does it matter whether or not the cam timing was OK? At the end of part 2 you discovered that the timing was off. if the timing is off if you turn the engine to TDC the piston will be in the correct position, but not the cam. My question is does it matter that the timing was off when you measured. Should this be a last check if you know the timing is off? I own a 2023 Hayabusa and recently my bike all of a sudden went down. I was riding to the gym and all of a sudden I lost power, and big plumes of white smoke started coming out of the tail pipe. I immediately went home about 2 miles away. When I got home i noticed that the was some oil in the exhaust. When I took the fairings off and I got into the air box my heart sank because what I saw was small metal bits in the scattered about. Initially thought something was broken, but upon closer inspection of the debris it appeared to be soft in material much like the cylinder head gasket. Not sure if this true I am going to start with pressure testing the valves and leak tests and inspecting the components to the current service manual. LOL I think it happened because of what you said at the end of part 2. I did all of those things you talked about. I unlocked the ECU and I changed the exhaust to a brocks alien head 2 (I really love the sound, loudest Busa on the road). I think the combination of raising the rev limit, installing a racing racing exhaust, and riding hard 100% of the time took my bike down. While my bike is a 2023 not a lot at the core of the mechanical design has changed, so your videos have been a big reference in trying to diagnose my problems. Thanks man you rock. I also saw your CAM swap vid. I actually feel comfortable doing So that may be the next update at the end of the season
Please perform a leak and compression test on your engine. And do not start it until you know what is broken. Unfortunately white smoke and oil in the exhaust are telltale signs of a dropped valve or some other type of top-end catastrophe... Starting the bike in this condition just damages more parts.
Clever man 👏
Much appeciaed thnak you
Thanks Brock. I've been looking for this kind of information. Some others do it but not as clearly and knowledgeable as you do. I have a sports racer with a 1300R Hayabusa engine and it's extremely hard to find someone with experience to work on it. The bike shops don't want to touch it because the engines not connected to a bike and the car places typically don't have experience with motorcycle engines. If anybody knows a good shop in the Pittsburgh, PA area that will work on my Sports Racer, please let me know. Thanks!
Filter by Engine Service here: blog.brocksperformance.com/dealer-locator/
@@BrockDavidson ,Thank you! I'll give it a shot and cross my fingers 🤞
Last time I had both cams out that far they were both installed wrong, guess thats why I never trust factory timing marks.
But Brock!.....Mr Squiddle wants his revs!! 12,200 simply won't do! He needs his 12,800 revs to feel like he can impress all his crustacean friends!! His friendly local ECU flasher said he can get 0.000014 more horsepower by extending the rev limiter!
On another note.... Yamaha stopped allowing ECU flashers to extend their rev limiters, at least from what I've seen over at Mafia Moore.
Chris does an EXCELLENT job of working with the limited tool box at his disposal - BT Moto has a completely different tool box: brentuningmoto.com/motorcycle_brands/yamaha/
Great info Brock... I'm gonna guess she skipped a tooth on both cams.
BTW, aren't gen 1 Hayabusa valves stainless and Gen 2 & 3 titanium?
Nope. 1 tooth at crank. And yes, Gen 1's are stainless valves.... hard to keep them straight after so many, lol.
@@BrockDavidson it's all good. I caught it in another episode you did.
And didn't think about it jumping the crank gear. Hope this wasn't a spoiler for the next episode. Lol.
It's been an interesting watch for sure. I wasn't sure what the culprit was gonna be. My first thought was fuel delivery as that's common in older Suzuki and Kawasaki bikes from 15-20 years ago. But idk if these had the stopped up internal filters the in tank pumps had or not. Luckily, we have a fix for them and made a video to show how we do it. Very common issue and the repair saves a lot of money. 😁
👍👍
Hi Brock does cam timing being off affect the valve lash measurements?
Typically no. That said, if it's WAY OFF, it could. But it would be so far off that the bike would not run.
Hey Brock I’m out of Xenia Ohio and just bought a bike that may have some history with you. I’d like to touch base and go over the bike if you have time.
@Elite Exterior Cleaning - send me info. and pictures and I will try to help you with it's pedigree: bmail@brocksperformance.com
I find a much easier way to find number one cylinder TDC is to find BDC on cylinder number two using a long threaded rod. BDCon cylinder number two should be TDC on number one. If it isn’t you’ve got much bigger problems…. No need for degree wheel.
Jesus, way off. if I recall my gen1 Turbo Hayabusa was set to 105 intake and 105 exhaust. I want to say factory was like 103 / 107 but it's been so long ago.
Awesome 👍🙂
Perfect informations and nice video.
Thumbs up for your bike passion.
1:01:16 even Brock says the same thing that I have known and hate it is when people on purpose hit the rev limiters. I cringe!! No load doing damage!! Even with a load it is not good but under load you have less chance of doing damage. Do not over rev! Do not hit your rev chip!!
My bike is doing the same thing. It falls on its face at 7k rpm then the FI light comes on. I tried new injectors, new fuel pump, different ECM, and I was gonna try the pulse ignition trigger next. I really need to know if it’s the timing chain!!! I have a 2007 Hayabusa
What FI code does it flash when the light comes on?
@@BrockDavidson I haven’t gotten any numbers off it because I did actually have one bad injector, so I had thought that was my problem. But it does just like your buddies bike, it stutters at 7k rpm under power. It won’t do it in neutral. It’s the original timing chain, I have 25k miles on it, and I’ve been drag racing the hall out of it for the past 2 years.
One of our racers says (comment in the last video by Ransom Holbrook) your can start the engine, then unplug the cam position sensor. If the bike revs properly, the cam timing is too far out of the window of operation. Try that and let me know what you find.
@@BrockDavidson C24 and C27. So I switched out the ignition coil packs but it gave me the same FI code again. I did like you said and disconnected the cam position sensor and it ran the exact same
Do you have an air or quick shifter?
Call or text me before the next video. I’ll come over and assist.
That's a lot of work for a old bike.lol
👍👍😁😁,,
MBAs and accountants need not apply...
Brock, I think you are off direction here. The miss is definitely electrical (spark ignition) related. I would be checking crank triggers, regulator voltage and coil packs. Engines will still run with a huge variation on cam timing. If the voltage rectifier/regulator is blown or connectors melted, you will get way too high battery voltage and overcharging, causing problems. Check the rectifier connectors for melting and the wiring.
@Grant McFarlane - did you make it to 1:55 in the video? I do agree with your statement on cam timing variance... in carbureted applications.
A little confused at the 55:00 10÷2=5+90 is 90 or 95 I would think 95......ooops at 55:50 you made correction.NICE!!!
👌
Wanted to leave a comment here asking if anyone could recommend a good front brake set for the gen 1 Hayabusa ?
Most guys either switch to Brembo calipers or convert the Gen 1 front end to the Gen 2 with radial calipers.
@@BrockDavidson thanks Brock it's my first busa and your video helped me tremendously with replacing air box valve cover gasket coils and plugs. I'll look into both options
Epic stuff, Mr. Davidson. Can't thank you enough for going through the immense effort to put these videos out. 🙏❤
Check the lift at overlap. The int stock is .088 a d Ex is .085 approximately. See what you get. I’m curious. Also doing the ex in the frame like that with the indicator at that angle with the valve stem gives you a inaccurate reading