If you watch no other part of this video, watch one (1) minute starting at 13:45. That one minute is worth the entire price of admission. Thanks, Joe. That is a fabulous tip!!
I just discovered your channel, and I have to say I am absolutely knocked out! I started with the video on turning a crankshaft, using an offset collet. Watched a couple videos on huge spiders, then binged on the naval cannon. Your videos are intelligent, concise, and clearly filmed. The narration is very good, and I like the guitar instrumental. I haven’t touched a machine tool in 20 years, but your videos remind me of the pleasure I experienced when things went smoothly. I thank you for that. By the way, the assembly on the breech end of the barrel is the cascabel. Do a word search in Wikipedia for more information. I look forward to watching more videos. Once again, thank you.
Many years ago now, when I was apprentice. I had to make the pattern for a copy lathe, for a very similar cannon. Then make 10 off(complete assemblies), for visitors to the factory. BTW, I quite your indexing plate you made. Nice idea.
Magnificent work of art. Afraid I’m not that good on a manual, I’d have to cheat and program that on the cnc unfortunately. Thanks Joe for the efforts you still put into the trade and teaching others.
Joe, you make that look so easy! I just finished up a job working with brass that took me forever to get done and get it to look correct! The job had 2 pieces that were very similar in shape to your canon barrel and I even had to use your idea of the taper bushing to hold it in the chuck! These parts were much thinner than your canon barrel, I was trying to duplicate two antique furniture brass stanchions that were around 6” in length and the smallest diameter was around .250” . I wasted a fair amount of brass until I finally got the order of operations and the process correct. I hate to think about how much time I put in on that one job. I did learn a lot about turning thin pieces of brass!
Hi Chuck. Thanks for stopping by. Some of the things we FOG's do naturally are sometimes Ah Ha moments when shooting a video. I try not to skip them. Hope all is well.
I made one of these - out of wood (don't do metal). Mine is also 50% bigger. On mine, I tilted the barrel 10 - 20 deg passed vertical (your choice) and use it for my pencil holder. Looks like yours has a big enough bore to hold your pencil/pen - if not - drill it. Now it not only looks nice but is also useful - it holds your pen/pencil/marker for use and at a convenient angle.
Thanks for acknowledging that. Positioning, focusing and other peripheral items really do add time and effort to this. Videos that just position a camera and roll are OK, but fades between scenes, different camera angles and smaller transparent details like that take real effort. Your comment is much appreciated.
Haha. I know You had lots of fun turning the stock into this beauty. I turned a candle stick, in steel, the way normaly done in woodworks, more than 50 years ago, and got top marks for the work. I still have it somewhere…..
That is amazing Joe. Absolutely unbelievable work. You know me I'm new to Machining. I thought how in the world he going to make a ball on the end of that thing. That was pretty cool to watch it unfold.
Stunning Joe, great work. I’m glad you took the detour and made it a perfect .500 I must be getting better since I saw that discrepancy and it bugged me too.
this is where you feel and hear the cut. something the old guys know not so much the cnc guys freehand yet preciscion. really liking this series. you mentioned the artifact in the trunyion bore . i was wondering why you were cutting it dry. a little atf or kero i wouldda thought woud be n order. brass is slippery till ya heat it
You made a Beautifull Berrel. One mistake everyone makes is to put the Trunnions on the center line, just one quarter of the diameter should be above it.
Hey Joe... Love your videos. I was wondering if you could make a video showing how you grind the form tools you use to make the ball on the end of the barrel. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/I_Tr1hlPzB0/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/N3-XFfc82ew/v-deo.html These were shot for the field artillery gun I have in process and the setup part shown is the blank I used for this current build.
@Fester Blats You are correct. But the sculptures I've sold, commissioned by the US and Canadian governments, the artwork I designed and supplied for the motion picture 'Robocop' back in the 80's, and the numerous pieces I've sold to private collectors all over the world, probably qualifies me as an artist. So lets go with "Both".
You still had a small flat on the ball after the second try, it got blended slightly with the sanding and polishing bit it is still there. You have never broken the edge on the rear outside corner on the lower stepped section. But it looks rather good despite all that.
I think it looks great. I'm sure a cnc would make it "perfect" but it wouldn't have any personality. Id rather have one made by a human including its imperfections.
After you split the bushing did you rebore it to get the diameter correct to hold the barrel around the whole circumference? That part would have been valuable info. Liked the part about turning that last part of the ball by hand to eliminate the chatter. Thanks for sharing.
No. The blade split line give the grip ability. It was a tapered bore on the collar, so just positioning it correctly on the barrel was most important for a good grip.
What is the triangular insert used for the plain turning, please? That is very beautiful, artistic work, but then even some of the pieces we make commercially appeal to us toolmakers as art forms. As apprentices in the middle of last century we made these and loaded and fired them. Madness!
That's seriously impressive! I'm sure if I tried that I'd end up having to dodge a brass barrel shaped flying object! Have you any tips for grinding the radius on your form tool? (Aside from 40+ years of practise). I do most of my turning with carbide inserts, & on the occasions I have to grind a specific radius on HSS I find an end mill with the correct shank diameter, & grind the tool to match. However, I often end up with an edge that looks a bit like a crinkle cut French fry which takes a few goes to get rid of.
A dressed fine grain wheel is good for hand grinding radius tools. Just take your time and check it often. Maybe a final lap with a cylindrical bar at the end to hone it in.
@@joepie221 Thank you Joe, those were excellent tips. I had a practise session, & roughly ground a .500 radius on my 12 inch grinder, then dressed the wheel on my 5 inch bench grinder, & got an excellent (for me) radius. Lapping using a bar worked like a charm, & I got a perfect edge surprisingly quickly. I use lapping compound quite a lot when restoring knackered threads, but I never thought to use it on HSS tooling. It's great that you're prepared to pass on your experience, & not act like machining is some kind of mysterious dark art. I consider myself to be reasonably competent on a lathe & a Milling machine, & I've learnt a hell of a lot from watching your videos. To the less experienced they must be a godsend.
You used two form tools with the same radius to cut the front and back of the ball, correct? How did you the tools to get the two radii to match? Specific grinding tool or the magic of experience?
A little of both. Knowing what the tool actually looks like is a big help. Thats where a large comparator comes in very handy. I usually grind my tools with some radius overlap on a slight angle so I don't leave the dreaded shoulder when making a radius. Back to back tool blends usually works out well.
great project . i always learn a lot watching you work. it seems to me that getting the ball to a precise ,5 dia requires precision ground tools ? i have made radius tools by drilling and grinding tool steel and then hardening but yours looks like a piece of hss. how did you grind it? also i have never noticed cannon grunions mounted off center, what is the purpose of this?
The tools were a combination of precision ground and hand ground. I did the back of the ball tool by hand, and the front on a surface grinder. As for the trunion, I've seen them both ways. I offset mine to raise the barrel and show lore shine. No other reason for me. If I had to guess, early gunners could probably flip the cannon over to change the range of elevation. Just a guess.
Control the original position of the collar to the chuck jaws and machine on a registration diameter to assure its seated correctly. Possibly make this a collared collar to better control position.
OK Joe, tell us how you ground the left hand and right hand form tools to exactly .250. You did a video some time back about form tools but didn’t show the actual grinding process.
The outer radius tool was done on a surface grinder with a precision wheel dressed grinding wheel, and the inner relief and radius tool was done by hand with radius gages.
Tip for anyone reading: Good speed trick i found for getting metals ultra glossy very fast, though it is very abrasive so be careful on any edges you want crisp. Put AutoSol metal polish (www.amazon.ca/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM) or equivelent on your Scotchbrite. I tend to do this after 400-600 grit for a good enough for camera chrome like lustre. but i've also taken bronze straight from the sandblaster. Takes a bit longer but still gets shiny.
@@cannon440 I have 2 field artillery guns in play. This is a naval deck gun just for fun. Its the larger 14 spoke wheel models I want to focus on. Their trunions are partial and stop well of the bore. ua-cam.com/video/N3-XFfc82ew/v-deo.html
Joe, outstanding job. This illustrates the difference between a machinist and a craftsman! Sir, you are both! Well played.
Thanks for that. I take pride in my work.
If you watch no other part of this video, watch one (1) minute starting at 13:45. That one minute is worth the entire price of admission.
Thanks, Joe. That is a fabulous tip!!
Thank you. I may have to machine a chess set.
Maestro.. watching you craft is so therapeutic!
I appreciate that. Thank you.
Just watched a video of a guy polishing his knob and it was the highlight of the day. Listen at 19:45
Thats funny. You must have had a really bad day.
I just discovered your channel, and I have to say I am absolutely knocked out!
I started with the video on turning a crankshaft, using an offset collet.
Watched a couple videos on huge spiders, then binged on the naval cannon.
Your videos are intelligent, concise, and clearly filmed.
The narration is very good, and I like the guitar instrumental.
I haven’t touched a machine tool in 20 years, but your videos
remind me of the pleasure I experienced when things went
smoothly. I thank you for that.
By the way, the assembly on the breech end of the barrel is
the cascabel. Do a word search in Wikipedia for more information.
I look forward to watching more videos.
Once again, thank you.
Thanks for the comment. I hope I earned a new subscriber.
I can smell that blue magic polish. I love that stuff it works great on aluminum and brass. Canon is looking good Joe.
I just recently found that stuff. A suggestion from a viewer. I like it.
@@joepie221 I use either Brasso or Duraglit (depending on my mood), both give excellent results.
Many years ago now, when I was apprentice. I had to make the pattern for a copy lathe, for a very similar cannon. Then make 10 off(complete assemblies), for visitors to the factory.
BTW, I quite your indexing plate you made. Nice idea.
Gorgeous work Joe…but I was terrified watching that buffing rag 😳
Paper towel. If it grabbed, it would just shred.
Magnificent work of art. Afraid I’m not that good on a manual, I’d have to cheat and program that on the cnc unfortunately.
Thanks Joe for the efforts you still put into the trade and teaching others.
Joe, you make that look so easy! I just finished up a job working with brass that took me forever to get done and get it to look correct! The job had 2 pieces that were very similar in shape to your canon barrel and I even had to use your idea of the taper bushing to hold it in the chuck! These parts were much thinner than your canon barrel, I was trying to duplicate two antique furniture brass stanchions that were around 6” in length and the smallest diameter was around .250” . I wasted a fair amount of brass until I finally got the order of operations and the process correct. I hate to think about how much time I put in on that one job. I did learn a lot about turning thin pieces of brass!
Now all you have to do is remember it for next time.
Very good to watch after a bad day at work. You are an inspiration Joe. 👍😎
Glad it works. Have a better day tomorrow.
I LOVE turning brass, find it very rewarding. Thanks Joe, greight mini-series.
Joe....great series with so many teaching lessons within.....thanks for sharing your build, knowledge and craftsmanship
Hi Chuck. Thanks for stopping by. Some of the things we FOG's do naturally are sometimes Ah Ha moments when shooting a video. I try not to skip them. Hope all is well.
I made one of these - out of wood (don't do metal). Mine is also 50% bigger. On mine, I tilted the barrel 10 - 20 deg passed vertical (your choice) and use it for my pencil holder. Looks like yours has a big enough bore to hold your pencil/pen - if not - drill it. Now it not only looks nice but is also useful - it holds your pen/pencil/marker for use and at a convenient angle.
Very appropriate that the ball is exactly .5 since it is a .50 cal barrel. Great form tools!
The trunions are also supposed to be the caliber size too, but mine will be smaller.
@@joepie221 I didn't know that was a thing, cool. Got to fire 105mm and 155mm cannons in my youth. Talk about a "blast"!
Great job Joe, thanks for all the videos and the time you devote to posting these videos.
Thanks for acknowledging that. Positioning, focusing and other peripheral items really do add time and effort to this. Videos that just position a camera and roll are OK, but fades between scenes, different camera angles and smaller transparent details like that take real effort. Your comment is much appreciated.
The barrel looks great! Can't wait to see it on the carriage.
Outstanding Joe. A real thing of beauty!
This was fun. Thanks. Now I have to make the ring.
Really enjoying this build Joe. Many thanks
Haha. I know You had lots of fun turning the stock into this beauty. I turned a candle stick, in steel, the way normaly done in woodworks, more than 50 years ago, and got top marks for the work. I still have it somewhere…..
Guessing you made that look easier than it really is...thanks for all the stuff you post.
Thanks for watching.
Nice. Enjoying the artwork, still learning on every video.
Thanks.
That is amazing Joe. Absolutely unbelievable work. You know me I'm new to Machining. I thought how in the world he going to make a ball on the end of that thing. That was pretty cool to watch it unfold.
New or not, you have to try it.
Stunning Joe, great work. I’m glad you took the detour and made it a perfect .500
I must be getting better since I saw that discrepancy and it bugged me too.
Most would never notice, but I knew it was there. It had to go !!
@@joepie221 Because you are a Machinist that takes pride in everything you do!
Nice work Joe!!! Very nice.
You are happy and I am doing one legged back flips my fiend. This is a great post eh !
Beautiful job on that cannon barrel Joe. I look forward to future videos.
Chris at clickspring would love this too.
I enjoy his work as well. Amazing craftsman.
Looking good Joe can't wait for the next video.
I'm looking forward to all the small hardware fabrication.
Just bleeping beautiful!!!!
When you put the pen close to it at the end, in my mind I heard This Old Tony's voice. "This is the thickness of a human hair" kkkkk
TOT is one of my favorites. His material and presentatiion is top notch.
😂🤣🤣🤣
this is where you feel and hear the cut. something the old guys know not so much the cnc guys freehand yet preciscion. really liking this series. you mentioned the artifact in the trunyion bore . i was wondering why you were cutting it dry. a little atf or kero i wouldda thought woud be n order. brass is slippery till ya heat it
Very nice, thanks Joe
Thanks for the chatter tip Joe
Cheers
So cool! Thanks so much for sharing, Joe.
Thanks for watching.
You do nice work ! Very cool.
You made a Beautifull Berrel. One mistake everyone makes is to put the Trunnions on the center line, just one quarter of the diameter should be above it.
great job
Beautiful
Thanks Eric.
Excellent.Congratultions
Thanks. This is a fun project.
Very very nice!
Great, Thank You
brass sure does machine nice!
Hey Joe... Love your videos. I was wondering if you could make a video showing how you grind the form tools you use to make the ball on the end of the barrel. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/I_Tr1hlPzB0/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/N3-XFfc82ew/v-deo.html
These were shot for the field artillery gun I have in process and the setup part shown is the blank I used for this current build.
True Artist
Thank you.
@Fester Blats There is more to this than just turning a ball. Process, form tools, sequence. I hope that message is getting through the shine.
@Fester Blats You are correct. But the sculptures I've sold, commissioned by the US and Canadian governments, the artwork I designed and supplied for the motion picture 'Robocop' back in the 80's, and the numerous pieces I've sold to private collectors all over the world, probably qualifies me as an artist. So lets go with "Both".
very nice , thanks for the lesson..
I'm sure plenty og brits had a giggle watching you polishing your bell end on camera.
You still had a small flat on the ball after the second try, it got blended slightly with the sanding and polishing bit it is still there. You have never broken the edge on the rear outside corner on the lower stepped section. But it looks rather good despite all that.
I think it looks great. I'm sure a cnc would make it "perfect" but it wouldn't have any personality. Id rather have one made by a human including its imperfections.
Hey, that flat and sharp corner were on the print.
Hi Joe. Great work. Beautiful.
Did you use a continuous, constant taper angle for the barrel?
After you split the bushing did you rebore it to get the diameter correct to hold the barrel around the whole circumference? That part would have been valuable info. Liked the part about turning that last part of the ball by hand to eliminate the chatter. Thanks for sharing.
No. The blade split line give the grip ability. It was a tapered bore on the collar, so just positioning it correctly on the barrel was most important for a good grip.
Yes, it is beatiful.
What is the triangular insert used for the plain turning, please? That is very beautiful, artistic work, but then even some of the pieces we make commercially appeal to us toolmakers as art forms.
As apprentices in the middle of last century we made these and loaded and fired them. Madness!
TPG321 kennametal
@@joepie221 Thanks for that useful info.
Magic to watch, 👍
You are SMOOTH!
Is this going to be functional or just a model?
Beautiful work!
For now, just a non functional desk model.
Almost smell that gun powder. TFS Joe, G :)
Awsome!
Is this going to be a working cannon or a decorative cannon?
This one is decorative. The field gun will shoot.
Nice work. How did you bore the hole in the canyon?
Drilled and reamed to .502
That's seriously impressive! I'm sure if I tried that I'd end up having to dodge a brass barrel shaped flying object!
Have you any tips for grinding the radius on your form tool? (Aside from 40+ years of practise). I do most of my turning with carbide inserts, & on the occasions I have to grind a specific radius on HSS I find an end mill with the correct shank diameter, & grind the tool to match. However, I often end up with an edge that looks a bit like a crinkle cut French fry which takes a few goes to get rid of.
A dressed fine grain wheel is good for hand grinding radius tools. Just take your time and check it often. Maybe a final lap with a cylindrical bar at the end to hone it in.
@@joepie221 Thank you Joe, those were excellent tips. I had a practise session, & roughly ground a .500 radius on my 12 inch grinder, then dressed the wheel on my 5 inch bench grinder, & got an excellent (for me) radius.
Lapping using a bar worked like a charm, & I got a perfect edge surprisingly quickly. I use lapping compound quite a lot when restoring knackered threads, but I never thought to use it on HSS tooling.
It's great that you're prepared to pass on your experience, & not act like machining is some kind of mysterious dark art. I consider myself to be reasonably competent on a lathe & a Milling machine, & I've learnt a hell of a lot from watching your videos. To the less experienced they must be a godsend.
You used two form tools with the same radius to cut the front and back of the ball, correct? How did you the tools to get the two radii to match? Specific grinding tool or the magic of experience?
A little of both. Knowing what the tool actually looks like is a big help. Thats where a large comparator comes in very handy. I usually grind my tools with some radius overlap on a slight angle so I don't leave the dreaded shoulder when making a radius. Back to back tool blends usually works out well.
great project . i always learn a lot watching you work. it seems to me that getting the ball to a precise ,5 dia requires precision ground tools ? i have made radius tools by drilling and grinding tool steel and then hardening but yours looks like a piece of hss. how did you grind it? also i have never noticed cannon grunions mounted off center, what is the purpose of this?
The tools were a combination of precision ground and hand ground. I did the back of the ball tool by hand, and the front on a surface grinder. As for the trunion, I've seen them both ways. I offset mine to raise the barrel and show lore shine. No other reason for me. If I had to guess, early gunners could probably flip the cannon over to change the range of elevation. Just a guess.
Veryptitty, now for the carrage.
Thats next.
Very impressive!
If you said what kind of polish you are using I missed it.. Is it simichrome?
Blue Magic
Take down the end with the outside forming tool. Leave a small highspot and finish with emery cloth 😉
Chatter tip o the day \m/ thanks!
If you don’t have an adjustable chuck, how would you have corrected the 5 thou eccentricity?
Control the original position of the collar to the chuck jaws and machine on a registration diameter to assure its seated correctly. Possibly make this a collared collar to better control position.
Are you using a super soft toilet tissue for the polishing operation or does it matter how soft the paper towel is?
Yes. My final polish is always done with facial or toilet tissue.
OK Joe, tell us how you ground the left hand and right hand form tools to exactly .250. You did a video some time back about form tools but didn’t show the actual grinding process.
The outer radius tool was done on a surface grinder with a precision wheel dressed grinding wheel, and the inner relief and radius tool was done by hand with radius gages.
Just need to ask Santa for a surface grinder, a set of radius gauges and an adjustable chuck, until then I’ll just carry on finagling.
I swear I could smell brasso, when you were polishing the cannon ball end.
Blue Magic
shudda made it 2 ft long :)
great work, as always
would it work with black powder?
It could certainly be made to.
How do you install the trunnions? I don’t see a video...🤔
The trunion receiver features have been machined but the trunions are not in yet. They will be soldered in if you want it to be functional.
@@joepie221 Thank you! I’m considering building my own. Love your videos!
Maybe you should have mentioned to use a paper like product as your polishing material, so you don not loose a finger if it gets in the chuck?
I am fairly sure its in the comments.
OD wont be what you wanted but it'll look nice!
Tip for anyone reading: Good speed trick i found for getting metals ultra glossy very fast, though it is very abrasive so be careful on any edges you want crisp.
Put AutoSol metal polish (www.amazon.ca/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM) or equivelent on your Scotchbrite.
I tend to do this after 400-600 grit for a good enough for camera chrome like lustre. but i've also taken bronze straight from the sandblaster. Takes a bit longer but still gets shiny.
That ball end is called a cascabel.
Thank you.
Beautiful work, sir
That ball still bugs me, man!
As Bono once said in a song about the late Dr. Martin Luther King..... "I didn't mean to bug ya"
Looks like a. 'judas' cannon (as in 'judas pistol' if the back end could blow off?
Best avoid gunpowder!
However very decorative model
The bore stops short of the trunion so I can ship it without worry.
Very nice, pretty in fact, until you ruined it with the pinion thru hole. Now it is an art object.
Coulda been a working canon.
I have 3 in process. This one is for show. I don't think ruined anything.
@@joepie221 You can't fire it, that's all.
@@cannon440 I have 2 field artillery guns in play. This is a naval deck gun just for fun. Its the larger 14 spoke wheel models I want to focus on. Their trunions are partial and stop well of the bore. ua-cam.com/video/N3-XFfc82ew/v-deo.html
@@joepie221 Oh OK sorry.