Trailing edge for led bulbs, leading edge for incandescent bulbs. Scrap the high load dimmer blocks in cupboard, which are only suitable for tungston or low voltage bulbs and not suitable for dimming LED bulbs but are capable for on off function.
Fucking incredible to see you Delroy. Excuse my language but for the past 3 months my Sundays weren't complete without your videos. In the words of Peter Crouch, let's hope you're back stronger
Thanks for watching. It's something I've always done I like to explain what I'm doing if the customer is interested. I don't mind answering questions clients seem to appreciate it. There is the odd occasion where the customer can be a bit irrigating most are ok.
No, often it "empowers" the customer, to do MORE of the same, except now, they feel as though they have been "professionally eductated" - whereas it actually takes an APPRENTICESHIP of upwards of 8,000 hours of both practical (hands on) and theoretical (after hours school tertiary education AND PASING OF EXAMS) to reach the bare minimum to be able to request a full licence. Thereafter, it's an ALWAYS LEARNING TRADE, just to keep up with rules and regulation changes, especially in compliance with the various Electricity & work/safety regulations and parliamentary enactments (called ACTS). Just watching a reg sparkie "work fast talk/explining what they are doing, in layman's terms, is nothing short of unhelpful, to those who do NOT want to delve into home owner DIY (and rather stupid, actually - if YOU suspect the owner/property user, to have been doing all that "not quite right" home DIY before you got there, as all it does, is empowers THEM to do it (again) next time, especially after getting your JOB invoice statement .. of registered AND LEGAL remedial work - you did. AND, they can claim YOU DID IT, as "you" were the LAST OFFICIAL registered electrician to be at our near that installation,should they (the unlicenced owner/occupier) do something even worse next time, that kills THEM or someone else.. YOUR NAME is on file, as having been there (recently) to do the remedial work, which they (or their relatives) will claim - YOU didn't do properly, didn't find, or didn't deaden a circuit, when YOU should have. I never talk about what I am doing, but rather about anything else, except wha am doing. Nowadays, wear a bodycam , and record everything, and KEEP THAT in a safe, or safe place, for at least TEN YEARS.
Hi Delroy glad to see you are back I have missed your videos, you always explain everything so well for the UA-cam audience and to the client as well. And the most important if you don’t know something you tell the client you don’t know and then if need be you do research and get back to them.
I love your videos Delroy , you explain everything so well , I trained as an auto electrician , but a few years ago at at nearly 60 I started a domestic electrical course I’ve got to level 3 but its got a bit expensive to carry on , I would love to I carry on but I’m semi retired now , would of loved to have worked with someone like you , great videos 😊
There is a big difference between leading and trailing edge dimmers. Most older dimmers are leading edge therefore if switching to LEDs these need to be replaced. Also, the quality of LEDs varies a lot - buy good quality ones from specialists, not the junk that most supermarkets and DIY stores stock (although what they stock has improved a lot in recent years) but also take note of the minimum load that the dimmer itself and this is easy to get caught out by as LEDs re typically low load. The LEDs must specifically state that they are dimmable too.
@@eastwayelectrical If YOU haven't got "a clue" as to which LED's are dimmable, which aren't "and the difference between BRANDS of the same wattage of LED's, (which all react differntly to a dimmer) - then DO NOT DIM THEM, "period". Install a lower wattage LED circuit, on it's own switch. That way the client has the option of low wattage LED/s, or HIGHER wattage on the 2nd circuit, or HIGHEST with both circuits ON. It's that simple.
Hi Delroy, Firstly, I'd like to take this opportunity to say welcome back, I know I'm not an electrician, but every time I watched your channel, it's always interesting, all the best to you.
This looks fairly straight forward 230v at switch, extra low voltage lights 12/24v the transformers are in the switch lines. Can’t dim through the transformers. Cabinet lights have 12/24v DC on the switch line and a LED driver has been added. 12v DC supply instead of 230v. Replace the transformers with LED drivers take the LED driver off the cabinet lights. If the cabinet lights are not supplied by one of the transformers, check polarity and LED compatibility.
Glad you back , from a sparky in the USA. The 3 small black boxes we call balusters they work best with halogen and other lights not led lights . Since he updated part of his lights to LED the run on drivers which won’t work proper on a baluster . You eluded to that in the video when you were talking about LED drivers .
Hi Delroy ive come accross these impulse devices before, theres only two advantages to them 1) the switch line is low/12volts so usually they are useful for lighting/switching in a wet area like a swimming pool. 1) they can handle larger loads than a rotary dimm,er i.e. 1000watts which was useful with banks of halogen lighting. You did the right thing removing them and putting LED rotary dimmers in. Also, most dimmers even modern ones wont like a mix of LED and halogen bulbs on one gang, many wont even work well with a mixture of different brand of LEDs. Best to have all one brand of purely dimmable LEDs on any one gang dimmer Lastly i would have suggested a 'dummy' module for the undercabinet lights, it looks like a dimmer module and will fit on the plate just the same, but it doesnt rotate and is on/off only.
I had a similar problem with a 24v picture light from IKEA that never fully turned off because their wireless remote only turns off the load side of the LED driver. In the end I kept the wireless remote for dimming and switch it with a Quinetic switch and plug receiver instead.
@@eastwayelectrical DO NOT TRADE as an "electrician" if all of THAT is away over your head, as all it does is "prove" that you yourself, are NOT qualified, as an electrician. As installing lights, of whatever flavour (LED, Halogen, Sodium Discharge, Argon Arc, or any other "type"), is one of the simplest wiring work operatives, that a corectly trained REGISTERED electrician is licenced to install (and maintain). SO for someone "trading as" an electrician, either you are, or you are NOT. Telling people porkies, of being a sparkie, when you are NOT, or of telling them you do NOT have a clue about how LED's operate, instantly tells the rest of us "registered" tradies, wait up - you are NOT qualified to "work" even as a maintenance electrician, if you DO NOT HAVE A CLUE, about the modern LED lights..
I used a ceramic (I think) resistor across the live/neutral connections on one of the five LEDs I installed to stop the flickering. Similarly, I installed another resistor at the switch end to stop the bedroom LED flickering.
Putting a halogen lamp on the load side as well as the LEDs will have the same effect. With the resistor, it needs to be ceramic to stand the heat that it will radiate. Also something to be mindful of if hiding it in the back box as it won't have free air circulation to shed the heat easily. You want to be careful not to have too low a value so it isn't overloading the dimmer (and wasting power).
Yes It can be a complete nightmare sometimes you need the correct drivers and when you throw dimmable switching into the mix makes your day a lot more interesting 👍
Welcome back Delroy, I've dealt with those Impulse Xfrms before in a holiday home, they don't support LEDS I think - also they need a good earth, or you may get dim lights. I believe if you pressed and held the light switch button they dimmed. The ones I dealt with were all 12v Halogen. I think units were £100 + each to replace, luckily the new owner of the home no longer needed my services, so I dodged a bullet there with that lighting.
HI Alan. I think the installation of the original drivers and switch's wasn't done very well also I thought it was a bit elaborate. Thanks for watching
I had an issue like this on a first floor lighting circuit.. after IR testing and checking all the connections at each point a C curve b6 solved the issue !
Hi Del. How was the process with the insurance regarding the van theft? Did you get fully re-imbursed? Glad to see you back mate. Looking forward to some more “oh my days” jobs 😂
That's just terrible! I've seen other tradesmen on UA-cam that have also said that their tools have been stolen from their vehicles. This stupid, incompetent government and toothless police force don't do anything about it, and so it's become an epidemic affecting the livelihoods of hard working citizens. Sorry to hear you went through that...
😳 Home owner used a kitchen knife to remove the facia from the under cabinet light while the mains had not been isolated. I was expect a verbal warning for that.
Absolutely LED bulbs not working with old school dimmer switches. I had same problem with new cheap LED's on an old halogen based dimmer where they were either full on or dimmed flickering . Finally found some 8.5w LED bulbs which handle the dimmer function.
LED bulbs often partially work with old school TRIAC leading edge dimmers - at some dimmer settings and not others ('phase angle' extremes). Does the flickering matter? Technically yes, the dimming circuit electronics can occasionally be damaged in this fault condition.
I bet those kitchen lights were still flickering as they were a mix of LED and halogen bulbs. It definitely wasn’t working properly though, I suspect the client will either be calling you back or calling someone else to try and get those sorted for the third time.
I wasn't able to watch the entire video a I'm heading into a meeting, but my initial thoughts are that the home owners have had a hand in fitting the lighting circuit themselves and the other electricians he's called out have clocked on and refused to sort out his mess... Yes, I could be way off mark in this instance, but I've seen it happen more than once...
I suspect that you are looking at 12 or 24V drivers used for LED’s alternatively you may also have some 12 or 24V used for IQ bulbs. Be careful as they are different. Likewise dimmers used an 240V circuits are different to those used for LED’s. Other factors to consider are are they constant current circuits or constant voltage. Get it wrong and you will get a hell of a bang! Start from the bulbs to learn of their voltages and types. Also remember that not all LED bulbs are dimmable which might explain the flicker.
Drivers most likely aren't compatible. From a quick glance, they look pretty old. A change of the driver would most likely fix the issue if it's suitably sourced
I get having dimmers in a front room or bedroom because it creates a nice chill atmosphere but why the hell does anyone need dimmers around the sink or cooker? That being said awesome work
Looks like some switch lines or feeds are crossed or mixed up. Needs all to be traced properly. Had a lot of this over the years. Where a DIY job was done and usually feeds get crossed or muddled up.
I've got to be honest, seeing all those wires behind that switch is kind of scary, it looks like a fire waiting to happen, I'd definitely want to organise that better than whoever installed this, the whole thing seems far more convoluted than neccasary, and like it couldve been planned a lot better so the LEDs work without all these conflictions.
Rule 1 as observation. The gas meter should never anywhere near the electric connection. Often the gas meter release gas pressure. It's a box of disaster waiting to happen.
What is over most peoples head is a good dimmable led bulb essentially has a little computer in it (microchip) and thus needs another computer in the dimmer to 'talk' to it to work correctly otherwise one of them is doing all the heavy lifting Why do some dim and others not then? Answer: dimmable ones need a better computer because of how the lights work and unfortunately that makes them a bit more expensive - but if you dont, they will flicker and rhat will be annoying, i can tell you. Any questions from there are personal opinion/ on economics generally.. I think diy stores and supermarkets should display some dummys split apart to show how an led bulb is constructed because its more of a circuit board than anything else and i dont think people realise because of how said bulbs are pacakged and sold. They see the exposed filiment types but i do wonder if that is what most peoplw think is going on in a normal bulb as thays what they always were, visually anyway. Thats the anology i end up using with most older people when explaining about anything with a microchip in it that is controlling the item to any degree. Microchips are everywhere... Its literally insane. Even usb cables... Rambles
Just ripped a load of this out, usually contactors controlled by 12v dimmers with the switches. Super archaic devices and lighting has moved a long way since then. Too many moving parts for me
Dimmers on undimmable LEDs will kill the dimmers AND the LEDs. The huge inrush charging the LED capacitors on each cycle is not good and the power factor will be in single figures!
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Delroy is the man, none of that artisan electrical willy waving. genuine bloke and will still be in work when artisan is up the job centre
What’s Jordan done to you? 😅
Trailing edge for led bulbs, leading edge for incandescent bulbs. Scrap the high load dimmer blocks in cupboard, which are only suitable for tungston or low voltage bulbs and not suitable for dimming LED bulbs but are capable for on off function.
Fucking incredible to see you Delroy. Excuse my language but for the past 3 months my Sundays weren't complete without your videos. In the words of Peter Crouch, let's hope you're back stronger
Its great how you engage the customer and explain what you're doing, bet it really helps clarify thoughts and work things out by speaking aloud
Thanks for watching. It's something I've always done I like to explain what I'm doing if the customer is interested. I don't mind answering questions clients seem to appreciate it. There is the odd occasion where the customer can be a bit irrigating most are ok.
@@eastwayelectrical irrigating?
thought water and electricity don't mix all that well
No, often it "empowers" the customer, to do MORE of the same, except now, they feel as though they have been "professionally eductated" - whereas it actually takes an APPRENTICESHIP of upwards of 8,000 hours of both practical (hands on) and theoretical (after hours school tertiary education AND PASING OF EXAMS) to reach the bare minimum to be able to request a full licence.
Thereafter, it's an ALWAYS LEARNING TRADE, just to keep up with rules and regulation changes, especially in compliance with the various Electricity & work/safety regulations and parliamentary enactments (called ACTS).
Just watching a reg sparkie "work fast talk/explining what they are doing, in layman's terms, is nothing short of unhelpful, to those who do NOT want to delve into home owner DIY (and rather stupid, actually - if YOU suspect the owner/property user, to have been doing all that "not quite right" home DIY before you got there, as all it does, is empowers THEM to do it (again) next time, especially after getting your JOB invoice statement .. of registered AND LEGAL remedial work - you did.
AND, they can claim YOU DID IT, as "you" were the LAST OFFICIAL registered electrician to be at our near that installation,should they (the unlicenced owner/occupier) do something even worse next time, that kills THEM or someone else..
YOUR NAME is on file, as having been there (recently) to do the remedial work, which they (or their relatives) will claim - YOU didn't do properly, didn't find, or didn't deaden a circuit, when YOU should have.
I never talk about what I am doing, but rather about anything else, except wha am doing.
Nowadays, wear a bodycam , and record everything, and KEEP THAT in a safe, or safe place, for at least TEN YEARS.
Hi Delroy glad to see you are back I have missed your videos, you always explain everything so well for the UA-cam audience and to the client as well. And the most important if you don’t know something you tell the client you don’t know and then if need be you do research and get back to them.
Thanks for watching, thanks for you comments I try my best.
I love your videos Delroy , you explain everything so well , I trained as an auto electrician , but a few years ago at at nearly 60 I started a domestic electrical course I’ve got to level 3 but its got a bit expensive to carry on , I would love to I carry on but I’m semi retired now , would of loved to have worked with someone like you , great videos 😊
Looks like the last spark ran - nice to stay and get sorted. Great to see you back making content 😄
Hope all is well Delroy. Looking forward to seeing you back.
Hi Matt. All is well thanks hope we can put out some good content. Thanks for watching
Nice to see you back Delroy. you seem to have a very nice way of finding the issues and smiling about it all helping out the client. Your a gem...
There is a big difference between leading and trailing edge dimmers. Most older dimmers are leading edge therefore if switching to LEDs these need to be replaced. Also, the quality of LEDs varies a lot - buy good quality ones from specialists, not the junk that most supermarkets and DIY stores stock (although what they stock has improved a lot in recent years) but also take note of the minimum load that the dimmer itself and this is easy to get caught out by as LEDs re typically low load. The LEDs must specifically state that they are dimmable too.
Hi Nick. You seem to know your stuff I haven't got a clue thanks for watching
Some LED's are not dimmable .
This is excellent advice. Some of the best dimmer switches modules i have use is VPRO or Zano
Lagging*
@@eastwayelectrical If YOU haven't got "a clue" as to which LED's are dimmable, which aren't "and the difference between BRANDS of the same wattage of LED's, (which all react differntly to a dimmer) - then DO NOT DIM THEM, "period".
Install a lower wattage LED circuit, on it's own switch.
That way the client has the option of low wattage LED/s, or HIGHER wattage on the 2nd circuit, or HIGHEST with both circuits ON.
It's that simple.
Some LED bulbs are not dimmable so you have to get ones that say they're suitable for dimming.
Hi Delroy,
Firstly, I'd like to take this opportunity to say welcome back, I know I'm not an electrician, but every time I watched your channel, it's always interesting, all the best to you.
This looks fairly straight forward 230v at switch, extra low voltage lights 12/24v the transformers are in the switch lines. Can’t dim through the transformers. Cabinet lights have 12/24v DC on the switch line and a LED driver has been added. 12v DC supply instead of 230v. Replace the transformers with LED drivers take the LED driver off the cabinet lights. If the cabinet lights are not supplied by one of the transformers, check polarity and LED compatibility.
Hi Delroy it’s a good thing you engage and communicate with customers during the job which I cant😂😂wish you all the best mate
Glad you back , from a sparky in the USA. The 3 small black boxes we call balusters they work best with halogen and other lights not led lights . Since he updated part of his lights to LED the run on drivers which won’t work proper on a baluster . You eluded to that in the video when you were talking about LED drivers .
Yeah Delroy back 👍
Thanks for watching
Hi Delroy ive come accross these impulse devices before, theres only two advantages to them 1) the switch line is low/12volts so usually they are useful for lighting/switching in a wet area like a swimming pool. 1) they can handle larger loads than a rotary dimm,er i.e. 1000watts which was useful with banks of halogen lighting. You did the right thing removing them and putting LED rotary dimmers in.
Also, most dimmers even modern ones wont like a mix of LED and halogen bulbs on one gang, many wont even work well with a mixture of different brand of LEDs. Best to have all one brand of purely dimmable LEDs on any one gang dimmer
Lastly i would have suggested a 'dummy' module for the undercabinet lights, it looks like a dimmer module and will fit on the plate just the same, but it doesnt rotate and is on/off only.
Thanks for watching and your comments. You seem to know your stuff all the stuff you mentioned is way over my head.
I had a similar problem with a 24v picture light from IKEA that never fully turned off because their wireless remote only turns off the load side of the LED driver. In the end I kept the wireless remote for dimming and switch it with a Quinetic switch and plug receiver instead.
@@eastwayelectrical DO NOT TRADE as an "electrician" if all of THAT is away over your head, as all it does is "prove" that you yourself, are NOT qualified, as an electrician.
As installing lights, of whatever flavour (LED, Halogen, Sodium Discharge, Argon Arc, or any other "type"), is one of the simplest wiring work operatives, that a corectly trained REGISTERED electrician is licenced to install (and maintain).
SO for someone "trading as" an electrician, either you are, or you are NOT.
Telling people porkies, of being a sparkie, when you are NOT, or of telling them you do NOT have a clue about how LED's operate, instantly tells the rest of us "registered" tradies, wait up - you are NOT qualified to "work" even as a maintenance electrician, if you DO NOT HAVE A CLUE, about the modern LED lights..
@@QUIX-KIWI calm down ya total melt
Another great video Delroy glad to see you back
Hi JIBS. Thanks for watching.
Great to see you back delroy missed your videos 😊
Hi Brian. Thanks for watching.
So glad to see you back!
Thanks for watching.
Hey Delroy, great to see you back!!
Hi Jason. Thanks for watching.
Nice to see you back!! Doing a great job as usual
Hi John. thanks for watching.
How cool to see you working again.
Thanks for watching
Great to see you back Delroy!
Hi Johan. Thanks for watching.
really good to see you back after the robbery, was worried you may never return. Great job on this one
Cracking video dude. Well done for keeping your cool there and slowing down to work out what is what.
Glad to see delroy back keep the good work up
Great vid, well done for sorting through all that!
He's back! I hope you were able to get some of your tools back! Any chance they caught those responsible?
Hello from Northern Ireland Delroy-good to see you up and running again
I used a ceramic (I think) resistor across the live/neutral connections on one of the five LEDs I installed to stop the flickering.
Similarly, I installed another resistor at the switch end to stop the bedroom LED flickering.
Putting a halogen lamp on the load side as well as the LEDs will have the same effect. With the resistor, it needs to be ceramic to stand the heat that it will radiate. Also something to be mindful of if hiding it in the back box as it won't have free air circulation to shed the heat easily. You want to be careful not to have too low a value so it isn't overloading the dimmer (and wasting power).
@@timbo19 Thanks for the advice.
Good old school attitude, well done my man.
Glad you’re back! Hope there’s more videos to come now? 🎉
Hi Dave Thanks for watching. hopefully we'll have some good content in the future.
Great to see you back Delroy 😀. I can see the guy who originally did the wiring saying 'It seemed like a good idea at the time' 😆.
Glad you are back😊
Thanks for watching.
Brilliant to see you back Delroy 👍
Hi John. Thanks for watching.
Phew... Good to see you back delroy .was getting worried u were gonna pack up after the van robbery
Great work I hope you charge him for your time to figure all that out ? looking forward to your videos again 👍👍👍
Hi Phil. I got paid hopefully I can put out some good content.
Good to see you back and hope you have put the theft behind you and were at least covered by insurance.
Nice to see you back Delroy
Good to see you back
Thanks for watching.
@@eastwayelectrical Think nothing of it- I’m a fan!
The Goat is back👍👍👍👍👍
Well done Del another exciting video. from one brother electrician to another. Keep it up.
There is nothing wrong with that layout, Delroy perfectly fine.
Yes It can be a complete nightmare sometimes you need the correct drivers and when you throw dimmable switching into the mix makes your day a lot more interesting 👍
Welcome back Delroy, I've dealt with those Impulse Xfrms before in a holiday home, they don't support LEDS I think - also they need a good earth, or you may get dim lights. I believe if you pressed and held the light switch button they dimmed. The ones I dealt with were all 12v Halogen. I think units were £100 + each to replace, luckily the new owner of the home no longer needed my services, so I dodged a bullet there with that lighting.
HI Alan. I think the installation of the original drivers and switch's wasn't done very well also I thought it was a bit elaborate. Thanks for watching
Glad to see you back buddy! :)
I had an issue like this on a first floor lighting circuit.. after IR testing and checking all the connections at each point a C curve b6 solved the issue !
Hi Del. How was the process with the insurance regarding the van theft? Did you get fully re-imbursed? Glad to see you back mate. Looking forward to some more “oh my days” jobs 😂
That's just terrible! I've seen other tradesmen on UA-cam that have also said that their tools have been stolen from their vehicles. This stupid, incompetent government and toothless police force don't do anything about it, and so it's become an epidemic affecting the livelihoods of hard working citizens. Sorry to hear you went through that...
And cash converters will buy and sell it for you... So government will get a cut lol
Nice to see you back. All the best from granpa elvis
Hi William or granpa elvis thanks for watching.
Good to see you back buddy 👊
good to see you didn't chuck it in Delroy
No I didn't thanks for watching.
"They haven't given us a load of room." Now, that's an understatement. 🙂
Great to see you again mate long time no see 😅
Hi Riley. Thanks for watching hope your Apprenticeship is going well.
@@eastwayelectrical hi mate, yea it's going well thanks
LED dimmers sometimes have adjustment to set the minimum dim level to stop the LED flicker.
Oh when you took that switch plate off my heart sank into depths of hell.
Always enjoy the videos, thanks for sharing
Nice one Delroy was waitin for your new stuff.Grettings from Germany 😊
Hi Dennis Danke fürs zuschauen.
Well done. ❤
Thanks for watching.
😳
Home owner used a kitchen knife to remove the facia from the under cabinet light while the mains had not been isolated.
I was expect a verbal warning for that.
Leading edge and trailing edge!
delroy uploading again
Thanks for watching
Absolutely LED bulbs not working with old school dimmer switches.
I had same problem with new cheap LED's on an old halogen based dimmer where they were either full on or dimmed flickering .
Finally found some 8.5w LED bulbs which handle the dimmer function.
Once you have the permanent live , touch each other line sw cable to live to see which lights turn on
LED bulbs often partially work with old school TRIAC leading edge dimmers - at some dimmer settings and not others ('phase angle' extremes). Does the flickering matter? Technically yes, the dimming circuit electronics can occasionally be damaged in this fault condition.
Where u been mate ? Missed ur vids ⚡️⚡️⚡️
got his tools done, he forgot to bring them inside and they did his van
@@ChristmasCrustacean1 Just disgusting that shit like this happens so often.
Thank for watching.
You are a good guy
Those drivers need to be swapped out for a LED driver to prevent the flicker. So there needs to be a Part 2 to this video.
The Job is done those driver are redundant the lights are controlled by the new dimmers.
@@eastwayelectrical you said there was a driver controlling the kitchen surface lights and these were flickering and not dimming properly.
Yeah just think he forgot about the driver on the top of the cupboard
I bet those kitchen lights were still flickering as they were a mix of LED and halogen bulbs. It definitely wasn’t working properly though, I suspect the client will either be calling you back or calling someone else to try and get those sorted for the third time.
@@justanotherdave.you should not use LED and halogen on the same circuit.
I wonder whether the client plans to have the electrical installation fundamentally and properly renovated in the “longer term”.
I wasn't able to watch the entire video a I'm heading into a meeting, but my initial thoughts are that the home owners have had a hand in fitting the lighting circuit themselves and the other electricians he's called out have clocked on and refused to sort out his mess... Yes, I could be way off mark in this instance, but I've seen it happen more than once...
I suspect that you are looking at 12 or 24V drivers used for LED’s alternatively you may also have some 12 or 24V used for IQ bulbs. Be careful as they are different. Likewise dimmers used an 240V circuits are different to those used for LED’s. Other factors to consider are are they constant current circuits or constant voltage. Get it wrong and you will get a hell of a bang!
Start from the bulbs to learn of their voltages and types.
Also remember that not all LED bulbs are dimmable which might explain the flicker.
Does anyone provide any software to document the circuit diagrams of houses?
Have you found such a software?
Missed the funky music on the video delroy
Drivers most likely aren't compatible. From a quick glance, they look pretty old. A change of the driver would most likely fix the issue if it's suitably sourced
I get having dimmers in a front room or bedroom because it creates a nice chill atmosphere but why the hell does anyone need dimmers around the sink or cooker?
That being said awesome work
As regards to the lights under the wall units in the kitchen, it's possible that the driver wasn't suitable for dimming either.
Good job
I would definitely be dropping him a letter re the condition of installation in the property.
lovely house
Looks like some switch lines or feeds are crossed or mixed up. Needs all to be traced properly. Had a lot of this over the years. Where a DIY job was done and usually feeds get crossed or muddled up.
You cant have 2 dimmer swiches on the same light Delroy
Those type of LEDs may not be designed to dim and flicker when the voltage gets lower.
Low voltage wirering need to be stranded and heavier guage and normal 240v ac switches are not compatible
Of all the people I know that have dimmer switches fitted not one of them actually uses them. They either have their lights on or off.
Delroy the minute i dropped that switch front off and seen that hash up i would have said this ones not for me and walked.
cherry pick jobs eh most cant be choosey
Good job some people can adapt and overcome situations…
Can someone help me please. Can a 63 amp 3phase breaker feed a 125amp 3 phase main switch for a 3 phase board.
I've got to be honest, seeing all those wires behind that switch is kind of scary, it looks like a fire waiting to happen, I'd definitely want to organise that better than whoever installed this, the whole thing seems far more convoluted than neccasary, and like it couldve been planned a lot better so the LEDs work without all these conflictions.
Rule 1 as observation. The gas meter should never anywhere near the electric connection. Often the gas meter release gas pressure. It's a box of disaster waiting to happen.
Welcome back! Missed your videos. Hope all is well. Cheers from Florida.
Thank you hopefully we ca upload some good content.
What is over most peoples head is a good dimmable led bulb essentially has a little computer in it (microchip) and thus needs another computer in the dimmer to 'talk' to it to work correctly otherwise one of them is doing all the heavy lifting
Why do some dim and others not then? Answer: dimmable ones need a better computer because of how the lights work and unfortunately that makes them a bit more expensive - but if you dont, they will flicker and rhat will be annoying, i can tell you.
Any questions from there are personal opinion/ on economics generally..
I think diy stores and supermarkets should display some dummys split apart to show how an led bulb is constructed because its more of a circuit board than anything else and i dont think people realise because of how said bulbs are pacakged and sold. They see the exposed filiment types but i do wonder if that is what most peoplw think is going on in a normal bulb as thays what they always were, visually anyway.
Thats the anology i end up using with most older people when explaining about anything with a microchip in it that is controlling the item to any degree.
Microchips are everywhere... Its literally insane. Even usb cables...
Rambles
Bet the upstairs lamps are non dimmable, change them for dimmable ones.
Will say, what a silly elaborate setup for basic lights. lol
Just ripped a load of this out, usually contactors controlled by 12v dimmers with the switches. Super archaic devices and lighting has moved a long way since then.
Too many moving parts for me
Those look like ballast
😮 the whole house needs rewiring.lol😊
The reason the led flicker because their is a surge of current.
Dimmers on undimmable LEDs will kill the dimmers AND the LEDs. The huge inrush charging the LED capacitors on each cycle is not good and the power factor will be in single figures!
That laugh 😂
I don’t think those cupboards should be so close over the cocking hob .
It’s a ballast