2015 - 2019 Subaru Outback Automatic Tailgate to Manual Conversion
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- As the description says.
You will need a couple parts.
Left and Right manual struts.
63269AL00A 63269AL01A
Simple to do! Took me an hour including editing this video.
Hope it helps.
Show your support and gain access to additional content: / bruceyyyyy
In the middle of this now, have a question about disconnecting the hatch motor. At about 4:34 in the video you indicate a small white plug to disconnect to de power the lift motor (white plug with small red and blue wires above the black box). I disconnected this, but my lift motor is still live and cycles when I hit the hatch button. Did you mean the larger plug out if site behind (and plugged into) the black box there? Edited to add: nevermind, can confirm, it's the plug behind the box. not the little one above. Much nicer now! Thanks.
I might have misspoke or the color might be sightly different by year. Try both and let me know!
@@bruceyyyyy In the vid you seem to be indicating the little white plug that can be seen in camera, but disconnecting it does nothing (or nothing to the lift motor). The plug you must have meant is out of view and actually on the backside of that black box (in my gen 2016 OB). Disconnecting it disabled the lift motor. So good to go.
@@davidmedeiros7572 Awesome! I pinned this comment to hopefully help someone else in the future. Thank you for sharing!
WHICH plug do you remove? The black box has three plugs going into it.
The one furthest away from the camera.
That's a very useful video! Thanks for posting. Can you also add the link on how to remove the panel?
At 4:06 you reference linking to another video about removing trim panel but I don't see your link in the video or in the expanded description.
I HATE POWER L/Gs!!!
Great video...auto tailgates eventually die and aren’t worth the money to continue to fix so might as well go with what always works. Thinking of doing the same to my RAV4 once the warranty runs out as the tailgate is already finicky after only 27,000 miles...
Worked great however the trunk will not stay locked. I can open it. Any tips? If i use the remote it doesn’t lock. But if i manually push the lock on the door it will briefly lock. But opens if I keep t open if i keep trying
has anyone tried this on a newer subaru? 2020 or later? i figure unless they’ve moved the motor (which seems unlikely) it should be much the same
Well I just went and did this whole project and now the hatch won't latch. I then disconnected the battery and reconnected it and it worked fine one time, then tried opening and closing and now it won't latch.
You were very UNCLEAR as to which of the three plugs that go into the controller to unplug, and they are VERY difficult to unplug in the limited space with the panel peeled back. Also you never said WHY the plug needs to be unplugged. I tested the hatch and it worked fine without disconnecting the motor.....
Frustrating!
I had the same problem with my 2015 Outback 3.6r. I fixed it cheaply buy getting new struts on Amazon. Unfortunately I no longer have that car now (got into a bad accident a week ago and the car is totaled). I’m planning on buying another one.
I'm sorry to hear that man. You and yours ok?
@@bruceyyyyy I was the only one in the car and surprisingly I walked a way with a bruise and a minor shoulder separation. The guy that hit me was in a big pickup truck going at least 55-60 mph. Proof to me Subaru's are safe!
I just finished installing the supports for a manual hatch in place of those for the automatic hatch. The added lift takes the weight off of the lift gate motor and eliminated the clicking. Thanks for the video and great idea.
Thank you. I love my Outback but that lift gate is so incredibly slow. I'll definitely be converting it like you
Let me know if you have any questions.
@@bruceyyyyy just finished the job. Thanks for uploading this video, it was perfect.
Glad to hear it!
@@bruceyyyyy the rear hatch will no longer lock. Since the conversion I could manually lift and shut shut the hatch, but the automatic lock would activate and fully fasten the gate.
Now as of today, the exterior button doesn't work and my dash says the lift gate is open.
Any help is appreciated
There is also small fuse which you can take off and rear door motor will not work
Good info! Do you still have to fight the motor with this method?
Does this fuse ONLY affect the rear motor ?
Can you still lock the latch using the the dash panel switch ? What about the key fob ? Am I correct in assuming the lock / unlock mechanism still works ? Can you demo that please ?
Yup. That all still works as normal.
@@bruceyyyyy Thanks ! What about the you-tuber that said that removing a small fuse can be done instead of disconnecting the motor under the panel ? Do you know if it does the same or else has additional side-effects ? I don't mean to make extra work for you; I can always ask him directly.
And thanks you your help. Great video !
That will work but I believe you'll still be fighting the mechanism. Try opening your auto tailgate to see what I mean.
@@bruceyyyyy yes I know I would remove the linkage to prevent that
Thanks for this! I'm about to disable the auto lift gate on my 2016 OB. Discovered the lift arm over stresses the hatch and I'm getting stress cracks in the metal around the hinge! Have you had any issues to report with this modification? Or still working ok? I'm mostly concerned about difficulty locking or unlocking when trying to open and close.
No issues at all even years later.
Operates like a normal trunk hatch.
This is super helpful, thank you! Glad I can do something as simple as keeping the door open without worrying about killing my battery.
This exact thing happened to me recently. Why does leaving the hatch open drain the battery? Because it Definitely does. Cool video
Brucey! I love you man haha. I cannot believe how many times I've had questions and you've either already answered them directly or indirectly through your videos and/or posts on the forums. From the brakes upgrade to the left panel removal in the trunk. Thanks for everything. Seriously.
100%! New subscriber. Thanks for taking the time to share your Subaru knowledge.
Our 2015 lift gate still works but by the time it fully opens, I can probably make a video like yours 😉. Maybe if there was a way to replace the gear responsible for rate at which it opens and closes, it would be a bit more useful.
You could up the voltage going to the motor. Could be a fun experiment.
My 2015 outback liftgate would only open once every four or five tries. Starts to open them beeps three times and shuts itself. Took to dealer, they replaced the motor now it never opens; tries opening an inch or so then beeps three times and shuts. Tried opening it 30 times and it won't go at all now. Took back to dealer this morning. I'm not confident but somehow replacing the motor made it worse! Close to making this conversion myself.
Keep me updated! I haven't seen that issue before. I just didn't like the fact that I couldn't use it as a standard tailgate. I wish I could do both.
@@bruceyyyyy Just got it back. They told me it was a worn strut arm or as they refer to it, a damper arm. Seems to be working fine now... for now...
My 2016 Outback does this exact same thing, I’m sick of it. Took it to the dealer and they couldn’t replicate the problem, but of course for me it only works 25% of the time. I’ve read on forums that this is a surprisingly common issue with this model.
So can you lock and unlock the liftgate?
Yes
Super helpful. I'd like to simply replace the left strut connected to the motor. I can't find the part, though. Any suggestions on where to find that part number?
Disable the power lift gate with button ❌ spend time getting rid of while taking your car apart ✅
Fantastic, thanks!!! I'd probably do this to our 2015 Forester, but my bride wouldn't be happy.
This is the exact sound I heard before it completely ripped apart all of the plastic housing covering the panel of the lift gate motor. Thanks for the video. Wish I would have found this video sooner! Your video helped me remove the rod attached to the motor and the actual gate. Much appreciated
Does anyone know if it ends up opening further to avoid tall people hitting their head?
I'm considering doing this for my 2015 premium outback. Last year my tailgate started beeping when it finished opening and then it would slowly close. I took it into the dealership and they replaced the hatch struts. Now less than a year later, the same problem is reoccurring. My only question is concerning the button on the tailgate that opens it. Without the motor connected will this button open the door manually?
How would you access that button if the tailgate is closed?
@@bruceyyyyy Sorry I meant the button on the outside of the tailgate. The button that releases the latch.
@@chuckplimp My mistake. I thought you were talking about the other.
Yes. That button just acts as a handle to open it manually now.
@@bruceyyyyy Awesome, thank you!
@@chuckplimp But what about locking the tailgate--or is it always open after your fix?
Hey, I'd like to thank you for this video. I did it yesterday and now I'm happy. This system is so badly designed that the hatch was starting to bend because of the pressure being applied only on one side.
hi friend, are you interested in installing other model Auto tailgate?we could offer you the commissions.
Thats had some heavy use. Mine still looks like new. I need to throw more stuff in it !
Great Video! My 2015 OB with power rear gate started to get loud and I plan to replace the support struts. What's the difference between 63269AL00A and 63260AL02B (Hatch Lift Support. Stay Tailgate RHP), 63269AL01A and 63260AL03B (Hatch Lift Support. Stay Tailgate LHP)?
I believe they're just revisions. Subaru likes to update part numbers with newer ones that supercede old ones but no one seems to be able to tell the difference. It would be my guess but looking at them on parts.subaru.com I'm not sure.
I have a 2021 onyx. This video will be very handy in a few years.
Cool, not a fan of the auto lift gate. Also auto seats are a pain when trying to relax on lunch break.
One perhaps stupid question: what is the point of disconnecting the motor after you disconnect the lift arm? Is it that the car will think the motor is failing to lift the trunk and beep at you?
That's what I want to know too. I tried this mod today but I couldn't figure out which wire to unplug. There are four options in the area he pointed at. If I DON"T unplug the motor is works fine manually, just that the motor does engage and make a whirring sound but it doesn't actually do anything.
Can you still program a PIN code for keyless entry after this?
No problems on mine.
Bruce, from where did you purchase the two manual replacement supports shown in your video?
A Subaru parts supplier website.
Just changed mine. Dealership asked $1200 to replace motor.
Hardest part was to remove panel to switch off power. In my case it wasn't white connector. It was black connecting black box with micro chip inside.
Thanks for helpful video. Lock, unlock works well. Hopefully no more drained battery on a camp trips.
There are three plugs going into the black box and I can't figure out which one is the right one.... no one in the video or comments says which plug to remove.....
The auto lift gate on my moms 2019 outback is wicked quick
Where’s the link to the video to remove the side panels, mentioned at about 4:03?
Thanks!
That's odd. It was there at some point but isn't now.
ua-cam.com/video/7Qa138u-1D4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=bruceyyyyy
Here ya go.
I’m about to do the same thing with my Volvo. Tho electronic lifts are horrible
I don't think this will apply for a Volvo. But if it is a similar design it shouldn't be that much different!
Came in very handy when my '16 OB lift gate motor started to go not long after the warranty expired. If I put in even stronger struts can it go up by itself after pushing the key fob?
I'm not sure. I worry anything strong enough to lift at full compression will cause problems else where.
Can you please address the impact of this work on the ability to lock the liftgate? If the button on the liftgate now just acts as a latch, is it possible to lock the liftgate?
Lock still works as normal. Hitting the lock button on the key or on the door locks it. Hitting the unlock button on the key or the door unlocks it.
This is excellent!
Can i try this in my forester 2013? Can i keep the same rod on the left and right ?
Try it. It's reversible.
Which nets do you have on the back side windows?
ADF Molle Racks.
It worked
Keep up the awesome videos!
How do you lock it?
The lock button still works as normal.
@@bruceyyyyy just did this and it will not stay locked. Comment above with better description…… help?
@@deonnar5178 Double check the right connection is disconnected.
@@bruceyyyyy we did top one on motor. Everything else is perfect. It locks but if you push it another time or two it then unlocks. Should we disconnect more wires?
After doing this can you still lock the tailgate?
Of course you can still lock it.
@@bruceyyyyy can you list the interior rear side panel removal video - mentioned in the rear hatch power convention to manual latching. I can’t find it.
I never fully removed it for this.
Ok, I'm back after having done this mod about a month ago. My 2016 subaru has started to drain it's 1.5 year old Interstate batt (charge it up to 12.8ish, by the next morning it's showing 12.3). I think this might be due to a parasitic draw possibly on the tailgate circuit (it's the only electrical mod I've made to the car). Wondering if anyone else has had this issue after disconnecting the tailgate motor? Anyway to test this?
I haven't had this issue. Is the correct plug undone in the back?
@@bruceyyyyy LOL, I think so, we talked about it before. I pulled the bigger one off the back of the black box, but left that smaller white one in place. The motor no longer responds to any buttons and nothing shows on the dash, but I'm worried some sensor is still pulling amps when the car is off, like it would if you left the tailgate open a crack (which I have done and can confirm kills the batt despite not showing that anything is running). Will pull that last plug to see if I still get a volt drop after 24 hours. I hate chasing electrical crap!
@@bruceyyyyy Still no idea if the this mod is causing me an issue but I went back into the side panel today to pull that other smaller white plug you can see in the vid, just in case. I also re powered the lift motor just to cycle it into the closed position (it was in the open position) in the off chance that constantly thinking the lift was open was causing a drain as well. We'll see if it does anything or if the parasitic drain is something else.
Let me know! I know there is an update available for the software from the dealer but I just jam a carabineer in if I plan to leave it open for a long time.
How has the conversion held up from last year?
@bruceyyyy I did everything the same except the button seems to do nothing to the latch. Like there’s no connection between pressing the button and the latch opening. This is in a 2017 Subaru Outback. Any advice?
Any downside to replacing the struts and leaving the motor connected? Could it reduce the load on the motor increasing it's useful life?
Should all questions come in threes?
I would imagine there would be downsides.
It could reduce the load while lifting but when lowering it would be more difficult. I guess it would have gravity in it's favor.
Yes.