I did everything you said and I turned it on and there's no fuel coming out so now I don't know what to do I'm stuck again but thank you for getting me this far
When you pull out the fuel nozzle and look at that and the spray igniters. If they are covered with fuel from repeated pressing of the button.Wipe them down and wipe out the area to prevent smoking or igniting? Thanking you in advance.
mine is kind of the same. what type of furnace series is it? i'm looking forward to take a training on how to give it a professional tune up. I'm serious on it. I would like to start little by littler like reading some basic materials with pictures of course.
Some of your advice here is good but your system is NOT legally up to code. You need a firomatic oil valve at BOTH your oil tank and directly at the fuel pump. Your system is missing one on both sides. This is the law pretty much throughout the country. Also, that is not the recommended way to bleed the pump. Many pumps have built in electronic check valves that will temporarily delay the fuel flow out of the electrode line. There is a 3/8 bleeder nipple on the bottom of the pump. That's the best place to bleed it. Also, a visual inspection of the nozzle will not indicate whether or not it is plugged. Nozzles can partially/fully plug without any visual indication. If there is any doubt about the nozzle, you should just change it. A visual inspection, especially without any knowledge of what a proper flame looks like, will NOT suffice. You do have a basic understanding of oil burners, enough to save yourself a service call perhaps. But there's way more to troubleshooting than what's presented here. For those who need to do more than just bleed it, calling a qualified service technician is heavily recommended..
Firomatic valves are not required in that situation anywhere n Canada. We only need them on systems that cannot positively shut off fuel flow on power failure. That being said, that oil tank is an atrocity.
@@labbeaj Yep. Except for mechanically vented gas systems. Those are no longer to be interrupted in the case of a fire, the fan needs to continue venting any possible raw fuel. Pretty sure both fuel line and power firomatics are still required on all oil fired systems though.
@@labbeaj as long as all components have a melting point above 1000°F, and the flow of fuel is positively stopped on power failure, we don't need firomatic valves. There are also no requirements or statements regarding firomatic switches in the ceiling. As I said though, his oil tank is an environmental disaster waiting to happen.
My furnace ran dry, added 5gals of diesel and got all of the air out of the line. My oil is air free and streaming smoothly out of the bleeder valve but I can’t get the furnace to ignite. Any ideas?
Hi. Got a Beckett gun on a Crown boiler. Furnace will start, but after 30-40 seconds, you can hear the tone of the burn change. It then becomes unstable, and a few seconds later, it shuts off. Furnace will restart after a short periods, and the cycle repeats... Usually, it takes 3-4 of these cycles, to heat the water in what used to take a single 3-4 minute cycle. Gotta be putting a lot of extra strain on the parts, too... Just before it quits, you can sometimes heat a hissing or sizzling sound faintly over the burner. No water leak, though... Anybody have an idea what is happening here? I am baffled...
Sounds like it's struggling to pull fuel. I'm sure it's fixed by now but I guessing that either your oil filter, oil line or pump strainer is plugged.. I'd change both the filter, pump screen and nozzle first.
Please close the transformer first . With those springs facing up you are unnecessarily exposed to 10 thousand volts at a very lethal current. Good points made with regard to bleeding from the outlet side of the pump and verifying that the ignition is working
The pump coupling which is driven by the burner motor and in turn drives the pump. It is made of plastic and joins the shafts of the motor and pump together.
I can handle that you are FORD guy. So am I fella. But the MUD part, well, that is optional with me. Just a personal response between two FORD guys. PEACE
Mudford was my screen name on classic broncos. I joined that forum when I bought a first generation Bronco to build as a mud drag racer. I just kept using that screen name. I'm older now and don't enjoy all of the work it takes to wash it after running in the mud. The screen name kind of stuck though.
@@Mudford Thank you for that little bit of history which really makes sense. Opening oneself is a sign of maturity and wisdom. I hope I will get some to rub off on me. Since we both are FORD men, this is a good day indeed. Peace vf
@@jasongreek2342 i changed the filter. Bled till no air. Burner started and shuts off. Have flame. Somtimes it will run long enough to heat the firebox and turn the duct fan on. But wont restart on thermostat. Red light. Sometimes will catch and run like explained on reset but mostly not
@@L2fish if you have a multimeter set it to ohms and get a cad cell reading. Start the burner and remove one of the yellow wires from the F-F terminal on your primary control. You want to be under 1600 ohms. If your reading is close to that replace it.
@@willys7974 if your reading is close to 1600 ohms it may not be a faulty cad cell, it could be dirty, there could be too much excess air, there could be something blocking the light. People are bad for over tightening the retainer clip for the electrodes, which bends it down and blocks off the holes through which the cad cell sees the flame. But he's said he's bled off a quart and a half of oil and he keeps getting air, his next step involves a vacuum gauge and some detective work to find either a leak or an obstruction.
@@willys7974 Ok thanks. Its been running but was not restarting after its night sit on my thermostat setting. Now its been starting on its own for week. I have an ohm meter as I worked in the electrical field. I thought maybe the cad cell was sooted over
Fixed head beckett afg burners call for 1/8" to 5/32" apart, 1/16" ahead of the nozzle, and 5/16" above nozzle centerline. The pointy tips are nice, but not necessary. Many beckett burner packages come with flat tipped electrodes from factory.
@@jasongreek2342 Brand new electrodes from Beckett always come with pointy tips.... I wouldn't use new electrodes with flat tips for call back reasons... Nobody likes going back to a house at 2:00 a.m after working all day....
@@labbeaj brand new Nordyne trailer furnaces with afg becketts have flat tips... probably 90% of the becketts i service have flat tips, I have never once had an issue, nor has any other mechanic around here. I change them if they're too short, or if the porcelains are shot
@@jasongreek2342 That means they are worn out.... I dont know about Nordyne furnaces with Becketts with flat tipped electrodes.... Never seen it doesn't mean it doesn't exist...Do you have a link with a picture of them??
@@jasongreek2342 I can't find a single image of "flat tipped electrodes for beckett oil burner" on Google images. They are all pointy when brand new..... I've been enslaved in this field for 17 years.... I've yet to see a good, working pair of worn out, what was once sharp and pointy electrode tip.... I don't always replace worn out electrodes. They can still work just fine.... But if I go there for a no heat and it is locked out due to safety and there is no spark..... You better believe I'm gonna replace those worn out, O.E.M 30 year old electrodes!!! Cheers man
Wow. A man that uses the proper tubing wrench for the job. Lol. Nice video. Thanks
Thank you so much because of that information I didn't have to pay extra money to bleak my furnace thank you so much
I did everything you said and I turned it on and there's no fuel coming out so now I don't know what to do I'm stuck again but thank you for getting me this far
How do you start the furnace man, you don't show it on camera damn it.
My machine will turn on and I hit reset and the thermometer is turned on calling for oil. When i try to bleed it no oil comes out?
Any suggestions
Exactly the same problem with mine. Did you fix it and how?
When you pull out the fuel nozzle and look at that and the spray igniters. If they are covered with fuel from repeated pressing of the button.Wipe them down and wipe out the area to prevent smoking or igniting? Thanking you in advance.
mine is kind of the same. what type of furnace series is it? i'm looking forward to take a training on how to give it a professional tune up. I'm serious on it. I would like to start little by littler like reading some basic materials with pictures of course.
thank you for giving us this vital information.
Some of your advice here is good but your system is NOT legally up to code. You need a firomatic oil valve at BOTH your oil tank and directly at the fuel pump. Your system is missing one on both sides. This is the law pretty much throughout the country.
Also, that is not the recommended way to bleed the pump. Many pumps have built in electronic check valves that will temporarily delay the fuel flow out of the electrode line. There is a 3/8 bleeder nipple on the bottom of the pump. That's the best place to bleed it.
Also, a visual inspection of the nozzle will not indicate whether or not it is plugged. Nozzles can partially/fully plug without any visual indication. If there is any doubt about the nozzle, you should just change it. A visual inspection, especially without any knowledge of what a proper flame looks like, will NOT suffice.
You do have a basic understanding of oil burners, enough to save yourself a service call perhaps. But there's way more to troubleshooting than what's presented here. For those who need to do more than just bleed it, calling a qualified service technician is heavily recommended..
Firomatic valves are not required in that situation anywhere n Canada. We only need them on systems that cannot positively shut off fuel flow on power failure.
That being said, that oil tank is an atrocity.
@@jasongreek2342 We use them here for fire reasons.... same with the firematic switch at the ceiling...
@@labbeaj Yep. Except for mechanically vented gas systems. Those are no longer to be interrupted in the case of a fire, the fan needs to continue venting any possible raw fuel. Pretty sure both fuel line and power firomatics are still required on all oil fired systems though.
@@labbeaj as long as all components have a melting point above 1000°F, and the flow of fuel is positively stopped on power failure, we don't need firomatic valves. There are also no requirements or statements regarding firomatic switches in the ceiling.
As I said though, his oil tank is an environmental disaster waiting to happen.
@@jasongreek2342 🤣🤣🤣 People tend to think that oil tanks last forever!! They get shocked when i say it's 25 years old, time for a new one!!
Good job
My furnace ran dry, added 5gals of diesel and got all of the air out of the line. My oil is air free and streaming smoothly out of the bleeder valve but I can’t get the furnace to ignite. Any ideas?
Very interesting my teacher good training
There is also a strainer/filter inside the pump that will plug with sludge.
Hi. Got a Beckett gun on a Crown boiler. Furnace will start, but after 30-40 seconds, you can hear the tone of the burn change. It then becomes unstable, and a few seconds later, it shuts off. Furnace will restart after a short periods, and the cycle repeats...
Usually, it takes 3-4 of these cycles, to heat the water in what used to take a single 3-4 minute cycle. Gotta be putting a lot of extra strain on the parts, too...
Just before it quits, you can sometimes heat a hissing or sizzling sound faintly over the burner. No water leak, though...
Anybody have an idea what is happening here? I am baffled...
Sounds like it's struggling to pull fuel. I'm sure it's fixed by now but I guessing that either your oil filter, oil line or pump strainer is plugged.. I'd change both the filter, pump screen and nozzle first.
You might want to stand your cinder blocks up with a solid block on top. They will easily collapse with the weight of the tank the way you have them.
You have a bleeder bottle exactly like mine.
I have a huge coil in front of my bleeder valve. It’s in the way of using the screw driver. Any suggestions on that?
you know if somethings not working right if you’re looking for a solution on UA-cam lol here goes it
Please close the transformer first . With those springs facing up you are unnecessarily exposed to 10 thousand volts at a very lethal current.
Good points made with regard to bleeding from the outlet side of the pump and verifying that the ignition is working
It's low amperage, so it's not really that dangerous. No more than a stun gun. It'll hurt like a bitch though.
@@gstylez0107 yes it does lol
My Beckett boiler is about 2 years old.
The nut on the bleeder is so tight that I can't get it off. Do you have any suggestions, oil maybe? Thank you
Karen Venzen maybe a little bit of Kroil or PB Blaster. Use a six sided socket if possible to break it loose to avoid stripping it.
The space is narrow. I will try the oil and see if I can tap.
Thank,s I am now up an running..
which connector need to be connected in order to turn on the pump?
The pump coupling which is driven by the burner motor and in turn drives the pump. It is made of plastic and joins the shafts of the motor and pump together.
I can handle that you are FORD guy. So am I fella. But the MUD part, well, that is optional with me. Just a personal response between two FORD guys. PEACE
Mudford was my screen name on classic broncos. I joined that forum when I bought a first generation Bronco to build as a mud drag racer. I just kept using that screen name. I'm older now and don't enjoy all of the work it takes to wash it after running in the mud. The screen name kind of stuck though.
@@Mudford Thank you for that little bit of history which really makes sense. Opening oneself is a sign of maturity and wisdom. I hope I will get some to rub off on me. Since we both are FORD men, this is a good day indeed. Peace vf
5:02 what did you do to make the machine run? thumbs down. unhelpful
This guy definitely does not do this for a living
4:20 "You can't be sure you got it bled." Huh? Says who?
🤣
I’m pretty sure this guy doesn’t do this for a living
I bled a quart and a half and still has air.
You could have a leak in the fuel line, plugged filter or strainer, or other issue causing high vacuum in the fuel line.
@@jasongreek2342 i changed the filter. Bled till no air. Burner started and shuts off. Have flame. Somtimes it will run long enough to heat the firebox and turn the duct fan on. But wont restart on thermostat. Red light. Sometimes will catch and run like explained on reset but mostly not
@@L2fish if you have a multimeter set it to ohms and get a cad cell reading. Start the burner and remove one of the yellow wires from the F-F terminal on your primary control. You want to be under 1600 ohms. If your reading is close to that replace it.
@@willys7974 if your reading is close to 1600 ohms it may not be a faulty cad cell, it could be dirty, there could be too much excess air, there could be something blocking the light. People are bad for over tightening the retainer clip for the electrodes, which bends it down and blocks off the holes through which the cad cell sees the flame. But he's said he's bled off a quart and a half of oil and he keeps getting air, his next step involves a vacuum gauge and some detective work to find either a leak or an obstruction.
@@willys7974 Ok thanks. Its been running but was not restarting after its night sit on my thermostat setting. Now its been starting on its own for week. I have an ohm meter as I worked in the electrical field. I thought maybe the cad cell was sooted over
Electrodes should be pointy so that they can be measured to a 1/16 of an inch!!
Fixed head beckett afg burners call for 1/8" to 5/32" apart, 1/16" ahead of the nozzle, and 5/16" above nozzle centerline. The pointy tips are nice, but not necessary. Many beckett burner packages come with flat tipped electrodes from factory.
@@jasongreek2342 Brand new electrodes from Beckett always come with pointy tips....
I wouldn't use new electrodes with flat tips for call back reasons...
Nobody likes going back to a house at 2:00 a.m after working all day....
@@labbeaj brand new Nordyne trailer furnaces with afg becketts have flat tips... probably 90% of the becketts i service have flat tips, I have never once had an issue, nor has any other mechanic around here. I change them if they're too short, or if the porcelains are shot
@@jasongreek2342 That means they are worn out....
I dont know about Nordyne furnaces with Becketts with flat tipped electrodes.... Never seen it doesn't mean it doesn't exist...Do you have a link with a picture of them??
@@jasongreek2342 I can't find a single image of "flat tipped electrodes for beckett oil burner" on Google images.
They are all pointy when brand new.....
I've been enslaved in this field for 17 years....
I've yet to see a good, working pair of worn out, what was once sharp and pointy electrode tip....
I don't always replace worn out electrodes. They can still work just fine....
But if I go there for a no heat and it is locked out due to safety and there is no spark.....
You better believe I'm gonna replace those worn out, O.E.M 30 year old electrodes!!!
Cheers man
I'm gonna have to call a service person because i'm the idiot that hit the button twice
Nothing came out
nothing done here was right