A side note for those like me using an updated version of Luban: at the time of writing this, Luban 4.0.3 is somewhat different from what's explained in this video, which is obviously done on a previous version. And beware that doing camera capture seems to set the work origin to machine's 0,0 on bottom left, but when you start engraving from a saved g-code it will try to start from the center, if you don't re-set the work origin on the machine to bottom-left (that is: 0,0) .. frustrating and not so obvious to me...
Thank you, knowing that helped me and my dad a lot. We were struggling for probably half an hour, and then I told him that I saw a comment on their video that mentions the problem and a solution, and then we read your comment, set the origin to the bottom left corner of the plate, and the machine is currently engraving a piece of wood in (almost) exactly the right place.
I figured this out after the fact -- I just kept experimenting with moving the origin and then telling it to run the boundary, eventually ending up with the origin in the bottom left. I wish their instructions had been more clear.
I could not find directions on how to assemble the gift box anywhere on the Snapmaker website. It's not too hard, but would have been nice if someone had pointed it out. I can't upload photos in a YT comment, so here's my best try at explaining it: The "top" of the 6-sided box is two wood layers deep -- both of the circle ones. (That's really the key insight that will make the rest of it easier to do than to read about, but here you go.) Before removing the pieces, number them from left to right, top to bottom: 1 (square) 2 (bow) 3 (square) 4 (square) 5 (outer square) 6 (small circle) 7 (square) 8 (outer square) 9 (large circle) 10 (square) I wrote in pencil since I didn't really care, but you can use small pieces of masking tape if desired. Piece 4 is the "bottom." Place it face down on the table. You can tell, since it's the non-circle piece that doesn't have any side with "extra long" tabs. If you place the 4 face down and upside-down if you had x-ray vision (or right side up if you fix the far end on the table and tip it up toward you) and then work around the edges clockwise starting from the bottom, piece 1 goes in the slot nearest you, right side up in the assembled position. Piece 7 goes on the left, right side up. Piece 10 goes on the far side, right side up. Piece 3 goes on the right, upside down (don't ask me why, I didn't design this). Piece 6, the small circle, should be glued to the bottom of piece 9, the large circle, and piece 2 should be inserted in the slot in piece 9. Piece 5 (outer square with small circle) now goes on the top, with piece 8 on top of it. Once the glue is dry, the 6/9/2 configuration is obviously the lid. It is actually impressive to me how perfect the fit is and how smooth the edges are, given all the troubles I had initially getting the laser to focus (somehow my distance got set to 40 mm after calibration on my first run.) If I were going to change the design any, I'd rotate piece 3 to be right side up, and I'd add a notch in piece 6 so that when piece 2 goes through 9, it also goes into 6 and either glue wouldn't be necessary, or it would be easier to glue into exactly the right place.
@@Snapmaker Thanks! I'm going to try to use it again tomorrow and I'll let you know if I have any issues. Can you make a step-by-step first-use video with the current version of the software that shows how to use the camera method of placing your example box in the right place? Pay special attention to what you have to do both on the computer and on the device with respect to setting the origin in the right spot so it prints where you planned it to. Also be clear about how often one needs to print those calibration lines and do the paper square cut. (And also make it clear that the "square" isn't fully square and doesn't connect at the edges. At first I thought I'd done something wrong.
When I camera capture, and send the gcode via wifi or USB, the laser goes to the top right of the machine and not the middle. I do not see where to change this setting. I am using material to see where it burns and then placing the project material in place. Why does the camera capture and image placement not go to the center work origin the machine has set? Thanks
Hi! When laser engraving, we need a specific spot to decide the relative location of the engraving area. We call that spot "work origin", and it can't be included in the G-code file. If you use the camera to capture the background, generate g-code, load it to workspace, and run laser in Luban, the software will tell the machine where the spot is. But if you export the g-code to a USB drive or send it to the machine via wifi, the spot infirmation won't be exported together, and you need to tell the machine where the spot is, by setting a work origin on the machine touchscreen. So, if you need to use camera capture function, you can only run the laser in Luban directly. Hope it helps!
@@Snapmaker Hello, and thank you for the reply! I have figured this out now. I have posted this fix in the snapmaker reddit group as well. The wording made it hard to get that pressing the play icon in the workspace sends it to the machine, we thought the send via wifi was what the documentation online was referring to. Now let's just share this information so other users can make -=Dope=- stuff!
I can't get this laser to work I have no idea what i am doing i followed every direction and i have been told i will be contacted 3-5 business days i have a $2000 paper weight lots of bugs not functional. Super frustrating, I've been watching youtube and going over every step over and over again and have no luck. I guess in 3-5 days i may get some better information.
Please follow the below article to check the Laser module. support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360059054894-What-should-I-do-if-the-Laser-Module-does-not-emit-blue-laser-light- If the problem persists, please contact us at support@snapmaker.com
When I try to capture the background image, it is aligned to the top right corner of the luban preview grid rather than in a place that reflects the actual work area. Any ideas how to fix this @Snapmaker ? Cheers
Hi! That's how the function is designed. You could just move your picture onto the captured background image and set the other parameters as usual. It will work properly😊
@@Snapmaker Thanks for your reply! :) When I export the gcode and load it on the snapmaker, the cut seems to be misaligned, it's off the work platform. Im looking to understand why when cutting from Luban it uses the upper right quadrant as the work area, but when exporting gcode to usb and then loading on the snapmaker, it uses the 0,0 point at the meeting of the x and y axis as the center of the work area. I would love to understand what's happening here. Do you have any ideas that might help? Thank you!
@@neuroblossom Thank you for your explanation! When laser engraving, we need a specific spot to decide the relative location of the engraving area. We call that spot "work origin", and it can't be included in the G-code file. If you use the camera to capture the background, generate g-code, load it to workspace, and run laser in Luban, the software will tell the machine where the spot is. When using USB flash, the spot infirmation won't be exported together, and you need to tell the machine where the spot is by setting a work origin on the machine touchscreen. So, if you need to use camera capture function, you can only run the laser in Luban directly. Hope it helps!
When I send the file using Luban to the device it defaults the work origin in the center of the platform, not at the bottom left like the captured image does - so does that mean I have to manually move the work origin of the X and Y axis to the bottom left 0/0 coordinates first?
Hello Philip. There are 2 ways you can use the camera capture function. 1st, connect machine with computer and use the laser online. 2nd, send the file to machine via wifi or USB flash drive and use the laser offline. For the 1st, you don't need to set the work origin as the computer will help determine the working area. For the 2nd, you need to manually set the work origin, as no info about working area could be included in the g-code file. Hope this could help : )
I was told that order #SMxxxxxxxxx going to ship in the Month September it is now 5 Oct and no shipment! When is it going to ship? The original date was March. And I know about the virus and I did not say anything about it. But since August it was going to ship that month. Well it time to give a real date! So WHEN WILL IT SHIP?
So this worked first time out. Now, however, when I have gone back to do my own piece, I do camera capture, then it asks me, on the Snapmaker, to position work origin. It then proceeds to not print on the piece of wood but way off.
I just got my Snapmaker a couple days ago so I maybe why off: I was going round-&-round too with the camera capture; wondering what the use was if you had to do the work origin every time you send the g-code over. Then it dawned on me..don’t send it. The manual even kinda says that...kinda. Load the g-code into the workspace on your computer and control the laser from there; not the controller on the unit. Once I figure=red out what they meant it worked like a charm. Hope I explained that right. I connect via WiFi from a desktop and when I do the the menu to control the laser appears under the ‘console’ display (when you have workspace selected in the upper left corner). I was sending the g-code to the device via WiFi & then running into the same issue about setting the work origin. If you just do your laser settings from the computer those options to set material thickness, work speed, & laser power are right there. At the bottom of page 52 in my printed quick-start manual it says "you can also start engraving/cutting by using the USB disc, connecting with the USB cable, or sending G-code files via Wi-Fi. For detailed instructions, please refer to our online user manual. Unlike the camera capture method, you will need to set the work origin if you use the messages above." Its kind of misleading but I pieced it together to mean "don’t send the g-code to the device if you want to use camera capture". I mean, y0u are of course sending the g-code in order to get it to run but you’re giving those run commands from your computer rather than the attached android controller. Hope I didn’t confuse too much (and hope I’m correct as well). Good luck.
Hi, Snapmaker Original - How to Use the CNC Feature ua-cam.com/video/2BKMsWtjOPY/v-deo.html Snapmaker Original - How to Use the Laser Engraving Feature ua-cam.com/video/-PSXRho7UV8/v-deo.html&start_radio=1&rv=-PSXRho7UV8&t=0
@@Snapmaker I just downloaded the latest firmware and updated via usb and the autofocus works now! The actual camera capture workflow on the other hand does not work. I am having the upper right quadrant issue.
@@Snapmaker When I try to capture the background image, it is aligned to the top right corner of the luban preview grid rather than in a place that reflects the actual work area. Any ideas how to fix this ? Cheers
A side note for those like me using an updated version of Luban: at the time of writing this, Luban 4.0.3 is somewhat different from what's explained in this video, which is obviously done on a previous version. And beware that doing camera capture seems to set the work origin to machine's 0,0 on bottom left, but when you start engraving from a saved g-code it will try to start from the center, if you don't re-set the work origin on the machine to bottom-left (that is: 0,0) .. frustrating and not so obvious to me...
ahhhhh thank you thats helpful
What about the z height ? And X=0 and Y=0 on the machine is a little outside the actual board is that an issue ?
Thank you, knowing that helped me and my dad a lot. We were struggling for probably half an hour, and then I told him that I saw a comment on their video that mentions the problem and a solution, and then we read your comment, set the origin to the bottom left corner of the plate, and the machine is currently engraving a piece of wood in (almost) exactly the right place.
I figured this out after the fact -- I just kept experimenting with moving the origin and then telling it to run the boundary, eventually ending up with the origin in the bottom left. I wish their instructions had been more clear.
been waiting for a while and september aint far ^^ been saving for this, as far best one i seen to my liking.
Have you received yours yet?
@@AG-zk3bb no sadly I have not.
Nice clear instructions - thanks guys. Looking forward to receiving my 350
Expandable modular system is so tempting! thinking about selling my cnc for this 🤔
September can’t come sooner. Can’t wait to see my a350 ship!
Come on Snapmaker, ship my A350 3D printer to my home in Geneva Switzerland please!
God bless you China about Coronavirus🙏
Hello, I want to manufacture some plastic products, if I buy this CNC machine does it will work and answer my needs?
I could not find directions on how to assemble the gift box anywhere on the Snapmaker website. It's not too hard, but would have been nice if someone had pointed it out. I can't upload photos in a YT comment, so here's my best try at explaining it: The "top" of the 6-sided box is two wood layers deep -- both of the circle ones. (That's really the key insight that will make the rest of it easier to do than to read about, but here you go.)
Before removing the pieces, number them from left to right, top to bottom:
1 (square) 2 (bow) 3 (square)
4 (square) 5 (outer square) 6 (small circle) 7 (square)
8 (outer square) 9 (large circle) 10 (square)
I wrote in pencil since I didn't really care, but you can use small pieces of masking tape if desired.
Piece 4 is the "bottom." Place it face down on the table. You can tell, since it's the non-circle piece that doesn't have any side with "extra long" tabs.
If you place the 4 face down and upside-down if you had x-ray vision (or right side up if you fix the far end on the table and tip it up toward you) and then work around the edges clockwise starting from the bottom, piece 1 goes in the slot nearest you, right side up in the assembled position.
Piece 7 goes on the left, right side up.
Piece 10 goes on the far side, right side up.
Piece 3 goes on the right, upside down (don't ask me why, I didn't design this).
Piece 6, the small circle, should be glued to the bottom of piece 9, the large circle, and piece 2 should be inserted in the slot in piece 9.
Piece 5 (outer square with small circle) now goes on the top, with piece 8 on top of it.
Once the glue is dry, the 6/9/2 configuration is obviously the lid.
It is actually impressive to me how perfect the fit is and how smooth the edges are, given all the troubles I had initially getting the laser to focus (somehow my distance got set to 40 mm after calibration on my first run.)
If I were going to change the design any, I'd rotate piece 3 to be right side up, and I'd add a notch in piece 6 so that when piece 2 goes through 9, it also goes into 6 and either glue wouldn't be necessary, or it would be easier to glue into exactly the right place.
Hey! If you need any technical support, please feel free to email at support@snapmaker.com
@@Snapmaker Thanks! I'm going to try to use it again tomorrow and I'll let you know if I have any issues.
Can you make a step-by-step first-use video with the current version of the software that shows how to use the camera method of placing your example box in the right place?
Pay special attention to what you have to do both on the computer and on the device with respect to setting the origin in the right spot so it prints where you planned it to.
Also be clear about how often one needs to print those calibration lines and do the paper square cut. (And also make it clear that the "square" isn't fully square and doesn't connect at the edges. At first I thought I'd done something wrong.
When I camera capture, and send the gcode via wifi or USB, the laser goes to the top right of the machine and not the middle. I do not see where to change this setting. I am using material to see where it burns and then placing the project material in place. Why does the camera capture and image placement not go to the center work origin the machine has set? Thanks
Hi! When laser engraving, we need a specific spot to decide the relative location of the engraving area. We call that spot "work origin", and it can't be included in the G-code file. If you use the camera to capture the background, generate g-code, load it to workspace, and run laser in Luban, the software will tell the machine where the spot is. But if you export the g-code to a USB drive or send it to the machine via wifi, the spot infirmation won't be exported together, and you need to tell the machine where the spot is, by setting a work origin on the machine touchscreen. So, if you need to use camera capture function, you can only run the laser in Luban directly. Hope it helps!
@@Snapmaker Hello, and thank you for the reply! I have figured this out now. I have posted this fix in the snapmaker reddit group as well. The wording made it hard to get that pressing the play icon in the workspace sends it to the machine, we thought the send via wifi was what the documentation online was referring to. Now let's just share this information so other users can make -=Dope=- stuff!
@@mistrfinga Roger that! Thank you for your sharing!😜
I can't get this laser to work I have no idea what i am doing i followed every direction and i have been told i will be contacted 3-5 business days i have a $2000 paper weight lots of bugs not functional. Super frustrating, I've been watching youtube and going over every step over and over again and have no luck. I guess in 3-5 days i may get some better information.
Sorry to hear it! So have you got your response yet?
How do you turn on the project projection onto the workspace material?
This has been advertised for years but I'm waiting for a confirmed shipment date before I order....
Did you check the online store for the shipment date?
@@jadewu3823 I will believe it when others start posting reviews
@@JustPete65 Good waiting.
Camera capture does not work for mine. Calibration is not possible with it.
Please follow the below article to check the Laser module.
support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360059054894-What-should-I-do-if-the-Laser-Module-does-not-emit-blue-laser-light-
If the problem persists, please contact us at support@snapmaker.com
Camera feature isn't in the latest version software? @Snapmaker
Hi now we have Snapmaker Luban V4.0, and you can check this video for how to use the camera feature: ua-cam.com/video/8xVTmtsnaDo/v-deo.html
How do you get the “select mode” to pop up, I don’t see the b&w greyscale or vector as it is shown in the video?
Hi. In the newer versions of Luban, the mode will default to vector if you upload a vector image. Try a non-vector image instead🧐
When I try to capture the background image, it is aligned to the top right corner of the luban preview grid rather than in a place that reflects the actual work area. Any ideas how to fix this @Snapmaker ? Cheers
Hi! That's how the function is designed. You could just move your picture onto the captured background image and set the other parameters as usual. It will work properly😊
@@Snapmaker Thanks for your reply! :) When I export the gcode and load it on the snapmaker, the cut seems to be misaligned, it's off the work platform. Im looking to understand why when cutting from Luban it uses the upper right quadrant as the work area, but when exporting gcode to usb and then loading on the snapmaker, it uses the 0,0 point at the meeting of the x and y axis as the center of the work area. I would love to understand what's happening here. Do you have any ideas that might help? Thank you!
My goal is to use the camera positioning on Luban, and then export gcode and print directly from the snapmaker, I hope that helps.
@@neuroblossom Thank you for your explanation! When laser engraving, we need a specific spot to decide the relative location of the engraving area. We call that spot "work origin", and it can't be included in the G-code file. If you use the camera to capture the background, generate g-code, load it to workspace, and run laser in Luban, the software will tell the machine where the spot is. When using USB flash, the spot infirmation won't be exported together, and you need to tell the machine where the spot is by setting a work origin on the machine touchscreen. So, if you need to use camera capture function, you can only run the laser in Luban directly. Hope it helps!
@@Snapmaker Ahhh now I understand. Thank you!
Is Camera Capture available via USB?
Sorry, Snapmaker can not support this function currently. It can only work via WiFi.
When I send the file using Luban to the device it defaults the work origin in the center of the platform, not at the bottom left like the captured image does - so does that mean I have to manually move the work origin of the X and Y axis to the bottom left 0/0 coordinates first?
Hello Philip. There are 2 ways you can use the camera capture function. 1st, connect machine with computer and use the laser online. 2nd, send the file to machine via wifi or USB flash drive and use the laser offline. For the 1st, you don't need to set the work origin as the computer will help determine the working area. For the 2nd, you need to manually set the work origin, as no info about working area could be included in the g-code file. Hope this could help : )
I was told that order #SMxxxxxxxxx going to ship in the Month September it is now 5 Oct and no shipment! When is it going to ship? The original date was March. And I know about the virus and I did not say anything about it. But since August it was going to ship that month. Well it time to give a real date! So WHEN WILL IT SHIP?
NIce product
I got error unable to start
Hi! You could send us an email via support@snapmaker.com to give us more info about that error, and we'll help you solve it out.
So this worked first time out. Now, however, when I have gone back to do my own piece, I do camera capture, then it asks me, on the Snapmaker, to position work origin. It then proceeds to not print on the piece of wood but way off.
It is exhibiting this behavior on my first time use, hoping to figure out what's up or if I'm doing something wrong!
same any fix for this?
I just got my Snapmaker a couple days ago so I maybe why off: I was going round-&-round too with the camera capture; wondering what the use was if you had to do the work origin every time you send the g-code over. Then it dawned on me..don’t send it. The manual even kinda says that...kinda. Load the g-code into the workspace on your computer and control the laser from there; not the controller on the unit. Once I figure=red out what they meant it worked like a charm. Hope I explained that right. I connect via WiFi from a desktop and when I do the the menu to control the laser appears under the ‘console’ display (when you have workspace selected in the upper left corner). I was sending the g-code to the device via WiFi & then running into the same issue about setting the work origin. If you just do your laser settings from the computer those options to set material thickness, work speed, & laser power are right there. At the bottom of page 52 in my printed quick-start manual it says "you can also start engraving/cutting by using the USB disc, connecting with the USB cable, or sending G-code files via Wi-Fi. For detailed instructions, please refer to our online user manual. Unlike the camera capture method, you will need to set the work origin if you use the messages above." Its kind of misleading but I pieced it together to mean "don’t send the g-code to the device if you want to use camera capture". I mean, y0u are of course sending the g-code in order to get it to run but you’re giving those run commands from your computer rather than the attached android controller. Hope I didn’t confuse too much (and hope I’m correct as well). Good luck.
WHERE IS THE VIDEO EXPLAINING THE USE ON THE SNAPMAKER ORIGINAL!!!!!??????????????????????? I CAN FIND NOTHING AT ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi,
Snapmaker Original - How to Use the CNC Feature
ua-cam.com/video/2BKMsWtjOPY/v-deo.html
Snapmaker Original - How to Use the Laser Engraving Feature
ua-cam.com/video/-PSXRho7UV8/v-deo.html&start_radio=1&rv=-PSXRho7UV8&t=0
Jodo Kast, This is the way......
Funktioniert nicht wirklich gut. Bekommt eure Software in den Griff!
Funktioniert leider nicht wie es soll!
No matter what I do, my camera will not recognize the best engraved line.
Hi Ethan, you can send an email to support@snapmaker.com for help in such a case.
@@Snapmaker I just downloaded the latest firmware and updated via usb and the autofocus works now! The actual camera capture workflow on the other hand does not work. I am having the upper right quadrant issue.
@@Snapmaker When I try to capture the background image, it is aligned to the top right corner of the luban preview grid rather than in a place that reflects the actual work area. Any ideas how to fix this ? Cheers
DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT NOTHING EVER WORKS AS EXSPECTED!