1940's Delta Jointer restore: re-surfacing planes
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- This video is the first of four. It's (mostly) about flattening infeed and outfeed tables. The jointer is some variation of a 6" Delta Milwaukee, model 37-207. This is a very common machine to find on the second-hand market. This video series was designed to include all the information that I would have liked to know before restoring one.
(1) Re-surfacing planes:
► • 1940's Delta Jointer r...
(2) Installing new bearings:
► • 1940's Delta Jointer: ...
(3) Assembling the jointer:
► • 1940's Delta Jointer r...
(4) Assembling fence, simple sharpening, and installing knives:
► • 1940's Delta Jointer: ...
~~~~~
●Replacement Bearings (without extended race):
1) Front side (smaller one):
15mm/35mm/13mm (Inside diameter/Outside diameter/Width).
Search using the following title. “PGN (2 Pack) 6202-2RS Bearing Lubricated Chrome
Steel Sealed Ball Bearings 15x35x11mm with Rubber Seal & High RPM Support ”
2) Back/pulley side (bigger one):
17mm/40mm/13mm (Inside diameter/Outside diameter/Width).
Search using the following title. “PGN (2 Pack) 6203-2RS Bearing Lubricated Chrome
Steel Sealed Ball Bearings 17x40x12mm with Rubber Seal & High RPM Support”
●Replacement Knives:
POWERTEC 6 Inch Jointer Blades for Delta 37-190 37-195 37-205 37-220 37-275X Jointer, Replacement for 37-658 Jointer Knives, Set of 3 (148032)
●Replacement Set-screws:
These are found throughout the machine. Check local hardware store first. They have a ¼-28 thread pattern; that means the threads were cut from ¼" rod, and they're spaced at 28 threads per inch.
●Diamond Sharpening Plates:
I will not provide free advertisements here, but simply search for "Diamond 5 Pcs Knife Sharpening Stone," and try not to spend more than 15 bucks. If you're shopping on the 'big A,' save the item to your watch list (without buying it), and then watch as the price magically drops over the next day or two. This is called 'dynamic pricing,' also known as scalping. You're welcome. I'm one of the good guys, I swear. You should also be thanking me for not putting mid-roll ads in this video, but who's counting?
●DELTA MILWAUKEE operating and maintenance instructions
(applies to models 34-205 34-207 37-205 37-207 and many variants):
vintagemachiner...
Funny clip taken from "What Does It Really Take..." by "Tools In Action"
That's an attribution, not a channel recommendation.
Please look through the description. Lots of info in there. Will release a new part every few days. They get better as you go. Well over an hour of content in total. Hope you enjoy!
Said it before..BEST. Channel on YT..hands down!..
Most underrated in its category, for sure.
TOT - any day - but everything else is a fair shot for second :-D
Plane and simple videos. Best of the best!
Hey pocket, thanks for not putting mid-roll ads on your videos.
I was given a smaller (I think 4" cutter) Craftsman jointer a few years back. I thought, "It'll be just a couple of hours to get this thing back into shape." Ha!
I told myself, "Just get it done. Finish what you start." Ha!
Well, I finished it, and I've never used it. Oh, the irony.
Do you ever mill your own material? Because then a jointer sort of becomes a must. I'm sitting on quite a few years of rough-cut, and the cruder methods of giving a board a straight edge have gotten downright tedious.
Now that it's done, the tool is surprisingly easy and pleasant to use. It's not even that loud, at least, not relative to _E-wal,_ my resident yellow jet-engine powered planing machine.
@@pocket83squared I haven't milled my own material often. Although, I do have a few cedar trees that I will be working with someday.
Zips in the wire! Zips in the wire! Good presentation. Fabulously interesting.
I'm not going to re-hab an old jointer like this ( I have a 6" craftsman that I bought new in 1975 and is still in perfect condition ) but I do like to hear your thoughts on how to proceed. It never hurts to hear someone who knows something useful telling us how to do it. Never know when a bit of procedure will come in handy. Thanks for what you put out.
Yes, in my top 10 for sure
Oh we eating goooood this weekend fellas
I'm so glad to have some pocket videos in the feed!!!
Thanks. Scale tipped. I have my eye on a particular one of these for a few months now.
Make sure it has a well-built stand. I mention this in the third or fourth part; making one, or a lousy one, will soak up LOTS of tinkering time. Ideally, look for an old Delta that still has its factory stand.
Nicely done. Thank you for no mid roll adds - not that I see those anyway with the subscription.
I noticed that you didn’t show flattening the stone before using it. Maybe it wouldn’t make a difference on a large surface like this as it might for things like chisels. Just using it as such probably flattened out the stone.
Good point. Nice thing about dollar-store stones is that you can buy two of them and then swirl them against each other until they true themselves. Do you have a better way to flatten them? I'm asking seriously. Also, do subs really not have to see mid-rolls? I don't subscribe to any channels.
"You wouldn't happen to have a milling machine?" Got a good chuckle out of me
That clip of the drill going in to water had me chuckling
Tip for better diamond stones, if you can stomach buying from and sending money to Russia in the current climate (I bought mine before 2022) is Venev - these are diamond filled resin on a metal base. Double sided 2 grits per stone. Available in all sorts of sizes. There are probably other manufacturers of diamond stones of this type but I'm not aware of any available to me. They are VASTLY superior to any of the cheapy single-layer surface coating diamond ones like you show in the video as "consumable".
I'm just passing by to praise you and let you know (we should be more like that).
I love your videos and the work you put in on them: the information, the share of tips/secrets, the humor, and the attention of details (recording and editing).
I'm noticing on this side of the screen all your good work and 12000 passes on that plane part)
You help me fall asleep (you have a radio voice perfect for that. I review old big videos), you calm my mind after a hard day, keep me company when I wake up in the middle of the night, and you taught me a lot. And for all of that, THANK YOU
I miss when there's no video, but I love it when there is a new one (you are missed when you're out there living your life and all of that 😁)
Don't mind the critics, the "just by one."
Focusing on the compliments and being you.
Have you thought about being an Internet coach!? (just joking)
3:30 in Portugal 🫂
Sweet, I need to restore my jointer too. Thanks
Never apologize. We crave The Pocket’s wisdom.
I just adopted a 6" Craftsman that doesn't need much. I need to find someone to take my 4" Central Machinery so I'll have room for it.
Another way to flatten the jointer plate is to machine it on a milling machine. It shouldn't have to take much off the plate and is more accurate than sanding.
As a graphics teacher I loved the plane joke
Do you think the Ludacris song "Roll Out" was about installing sandpaper on a quarter sheet sander? A lot of people have been asking me about that.
And, yes, I do have a milling machine 😀 though I suspect the jointer surface is hardened and that you'd need a grinder if you wanted to use a machine tool for this sort of work. -JC
I have that exact set of diamond plates for knife sharpening. They work great but do indeed need a holder. But they are 1/4 of the price of 25-30mm thick diamonded stones and i'm pour
Do not use water or lube on diamond stones/plates btw. They are not made for that, they are not wet-stones, and Gum UP, fast.
It's funny to me that you apologized about the length when I must have watched your circular saw rebuild and the parging video a half dozen times each.
i feel attacked, how'd you know i stopped paying attention when smurffette came on screen?
And here I thought that you were going to fasten the whole sheet of sandpaper on the flat surface of the work table and then run the jointer plate over the top of the sandpaper to wear down the surface evenly.
The old stuff is almost always better. It’s not even less accurate it’s just less efficient and heavier.
@6:17 oh, sure it starts with sanding, and then maybe hand scraping and surface plates, and the 3 plate lapping method, and sub micron diamond lapping paste, and optical flatness gauges and weird lightbulbs with strange wavelengts....where does it end?!?! j/k
The more interesting question is, _where did it begin?_
No, seriously, think about it. Go outside into the woods, and look around: there is no flatness to be found in nature.¹ You can start to make flatness if you try, though; grab two similarly flat-ish rocks, and start rubbing them together. Eventually, some flatness emerges, and the refinement process can begin. But again, you choose the degree to which you become involved. Ultimately, flatness is an ideal, just like roundness. There is no plane. Such refinements require conscious effort, and natural processes will not get there on their own. Unless, of course, the universe happens to be infinite. But that's flat-out not knowable. Plainly.
¹Ice doesn't count, smarty-pants. It's spherical, because of gravity.
ever considered metal scraping it? A bit outside the carpenter realm though😅
On the mating surfaces, at very least some flaking to let the oil in...
Dubious flattening process IMO. Using engineer's blue and granite or glass or a cast iron surface plate and working on the high spots would get it flatter. Much of what you did was surface finish more than flatness. Decent effort overall though :-)
Passable try, conjunction, emoji, eh?
Thanks. I imagine that you must live in a castle of pure light; a place of pure harmony where the _a priori_ and _a posteriori_ have no discernible difference. But here in my lowly, sawdust-floored shop, mired in my ignorance, 'flat enough to make a straight edge' will have to suffice as planar.
It's always nice to be reminded (again) how my procedural, tool, and mental limitations have ended up contributing to a less-than-perfect end result.
@@pocket83squared I don't understand the first sentence/question at all. Not withstanding that, no, I live in an old house with many, many, many imperfections and a beautiful country with its own problems and benefits. It is evident in the video that despite stating the opposite you prioritised appearance and finish of the restoration over actual flatness. Actual flatness does not mind that scratch you managed to remove, nor that pitting you didn't get beyond. Lows like that are not an issue at all. Highs are an issue. Large valleys are an issue. Using a reference surface to true up your surface to will help get it flat faster. I would never put an orbital sander (of any type) near a surface I needed flat. Only one that I wanted to paint or had painted :-D Quit the defensive stuff, man, you're good value, but the attitude is entirely unnecessary. Get a slab of kitchen granite, validate its flatness (regularly they're part of a large sphere) and then use blue to test your work. You are right that a planer must be flat to do a decent job, and you may have it close, though the straight edge test immediately showed a low and the "high spots" you described were almost certainly uneven pressure/technique. It's not that I could do better using your techniques - it's that you could do better using different techniques. A machine of that vintage deserves it IMO. I have some old machines made here and will be giving them some love of a similar nature at some point.
@@fredio54 Wow. I'll make it easier to understand this time: you are insulting and unreasonable! First of all, I'm not going to buy anything extra to (unnecessarily) flatten something if it will just end up sitting around the shop. I didn't prioritize appearance over flatness here; I prioritized FUNCTION over every other consideration!
Don't make me put it in ALLCAPS: this was only a wood edge-jointer; it was already far flatter than it needed to be in order to produce a high-tolerance end product. And I did NOT cause any pits or high spots by uneven procedure! I addressed and reduced existing imperfections, and I ended up with a vast improvement, given very little time investment.
As for your own planes, polish them all you want. _This_ one will be used for milled lumber. Have you ever milled a log? You always test your jointer tables first with engineer's blue and granite, right?
Good old cheap tool depot has 2 sided stones for the low low price of $3. I cant even get a side at a fast food restaurant for that. I can just think of all of the fun I will have with that stone. I’m going to get the side
People like random orbital sanders because they don't want obviously visible swirls. Quarter and half sheet orbital sanders leave bad marks on the work piece, especially if fouled up.
That talking point may be why people like them, _but it's not true._ Sorry to say it, but "random" orbital sanders are a well-marketed scam that's been engineered to get people to buy overpriced replacement pads.
Stray pieces of debris caught under a "random" sander will _still_ cause pressure damage. And they still scratch; that's how they're able to sand. Swirls and scratches are functionally no different, because they both can only be removed by using (increasingly) finer grit sandpaper.
"Random" orbital sanders only temporarily disguise swirls. For those who are skilled, 1/4 sheet sanders are cheaper, faster, and more effective. Further, woodworking usually involves sanding in corners. As a person who's sanded to the Moon and back, I'm not buying it.
@@pocket83squared I'm not sure what you buy/don't buy - the random nature of short-stroke random orbital sanders means there is NO predictable pattern when used correctly and with no pattern, ie a random pattern, it is FAR less noticeable to the human eye. Yes, you still have to go between grits, yes it still leaves swirl marks, though far less obviously. Speed of sanding comes down to the stroke. If you want a fast sanding result use a polisher as a sander, 15, 21, and higher strokes are available. If you really want to hog off material though, pick up a belt sander. I own quarter, half, and random 5" sanders - each has their place - they perform different tasks to different standards. There is nothing to buy or not buy except the sanders themselves.
@@fredio54 "FAR less noticeable" is exactly what it sounds like; if you're after a nice finish, then you'd want to notice imperfections, so that you can address them. Funny coming from you-considering you'd have me hone my jointer table (a tool) to unrealistic flatness, but then you'd mask the symptoms of a poor wood finish (an actual project).
And 1/4 sheets are nowhere near the cost of buying disks. Even with all other things equal, a circle implies four spandrels, which means a higher manufacturing cost per surface area unit.
Man, you're a condescending one. You even slipped in a belt-sander lesson there. You _must_ be a boss somewhere. You'd find it intolerable as a subordinate, huh? Well, me too. But please, stop talking down. I'd much rather spend my exchange time talking about something productive. This subject is downright petty. If your future comments are going to be (more) unsolicited procedural 'improvements,' then you're going to end up ignored.
@@pocket83squared Wow, dude, chill. I talked about sanders in my initial comment in response to your loaded comment about sanders in the video. Your replied. I replied. You replied with ad hominem. Really? Ignore away.
Tech Ingredients would agree about not using oil with sanding metal, they told me that they don't do it cause metal shavings will scratch the surface when they use oil after their thermal paste testing
Seems like a shame not to upgrade the cutterhead while you have it apart, but I know they're not cheap!
@@pocket83squared Not so much YT but on woodworking forums people rave about the carbide heads. I haven't tried one and my old jointer does OK.
Don't like mineral oil and want something lighter?
3-in-one oil or just 10w oil which is what 3-in-one oil is.
Man, I love the smell of 3-in-1 oil, but I stopped buying it years ago. It became too expensive and they gave it a stupid container. Note that my mineral oil is in an old 3-in-1 bottle that has a piece of hardboard glued to the bottom (a DiResta tip).
Hi pocket
What it is, my man.
Trains and planes? 😂
no need for that fence to be that flat.
The same process was used on all the planar¹ parts.
¹As in plane-like; not 'planer.'
See you later man