How to Square the XCarve Easy (No Math and No Complicated Tools)
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- All you need is a couple of sticks to accurately square the XCarve. You won't see this anywhere else! This is a complete how to square the machine. I show you step by step with some easy no tape measure method. Works every time.
My email is: PawPawsWorkShop411@gmail.com - Розваги
I just did a test piece for some display boards as part of a project that I'm doing for a client. I'm glad that I did the test before going into production mode as the corners of the board were catawampus. After watching your video, I know exactly what I'm doing first thing when I get into the shop tomorrow. Your method is very easy to follow and makes a ton of sense. On a side note, I have gained a really good understanding of the XCarve from your videos. They are well edited, the sound is clear, and the way that you explain the subject of each video is very calm and inviting. Thanks for doing all of this work for us. It is very much appreciated.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate your comments.
You are a great teacher, make it look so easy ! Keep up the great work !!
Thanks again Phil, another great video. Stiffened my rails up last week WOW what a difference. I have been needing to square mine for a long time. I will be tackling this project next week Steve
Awesome! Thank you Steve
Thanks for doing the videos, for a new x carve person this worked perfect, I bought the machine used and I’m sure the previous owner never squared the x carve bed, it was actually cutting 1/4 inch out of square, with your method it’s now perfectly square.. thanks a lot
Awesome! I'm glad that it worked for you.
I finally squared my X Carve using your method. I was off by .003” distance C to D and A to B. I got it so close to being absolutely perfect. I could barely tell it was off running from one side to another if I didn’t know better I would have thought it ended perfectly square. I did a square test of 3, 4, 5 and passed with flying colors. Now to drill my holes for sacrificial waste board and surface it. I think I’ve watched all of your videos 10 times each.
Awesome! Thank you very much
FANTASTIC!!! Thanks for the amazingly simple and effective way to set up this sometimes stubborn thing lol
Thank you very much. This works extremely well.
This method worked great for me! Simple and effective. Thank you!
Awesome! I'm very glad that it worked for you. Thank you for giving it a try.
glad I found your channel. you are alot of help to me.
Thank you very much. I'm glad that you are here. If you have any ideas for projects that you would like to see or questions that I may answer, please leave a comment.
Thank you. Love your videos.
Thank you very much. I enjoy doing them. This one was a real challenge with the grandkids. Paw Paw at work but not in the shop. lol
Thank you so much!
Thanks, this was so easy!!
Awesome! I’m glad that this method help you.
Great informative no complications method! I really love how you simplified this and thank you for taking the time to make this! So my machine has Aliminium extrusions like yours but obviously not exactly the same... Would I simply do the same thing? I noticed you didn't loosen the board and mine is stewed onto the frame...I would imagine in need to loosen that too?
Thanks paw paw....i already had some v bits in my router bit set....i forgot i had....thanks
Great! That will save a little money
Another awesome useful video! Thank you sir! I got my machine running over the weekend and cut a few projects that looked great. When I cut star on a union that's when I noticed my machine was out of square. Is this method got it on track and no time and cutting perfect. Keep up the great work sir!
Awesome!! Glad that it helped you.
Great video and I learned a lot. I was 1mm off. I'm hesitant to make that small of an adjustment since I may do more damage then good.
You maybe right. On mm is very small. If you start to do tiling you will see the difference. On mm on one side will multiple over 1000 mm machine.
Great tip
Thank you. Doing this always seems to be over complicated by others. I tried to simply it and still get excellent results. No square or tape measure needed. A real plus in my book. I'm glad you liked it.
Just did this to my machine, although i had to loosen the front screws since I dont have easy access to the rear. I was off by about 1.58mm. The story sticks work great.Thank you
That's awesome! Yes, it does not matter if you loosen the back screws or the front. I did the back because of the camera. Thank you very much.
@@PawPawsWorkShop you have helped me a lot with my machine
Awesome! That means that I have done my job. Thank you very much.
@@PawPawsWorkShop now can you direct me how to get this thing to carve a circle properly?
Now that it is square, you still need to calibrate the machine. Take a look at my video on calibrating. Also, make sure that the v wheels and belts are adjusted correctly.
All this procedure accomplishes is squaring the FRAME/BED of the machine....this DOES NOT insure that your machine is CUTTING square.
To check if the machine is CUTTING square, use the "3, 4, 5" method and adjust the gantry accordingly......Peter over on CNCnutz channel has an excellent tutorial...
This video was done to answer a specific question. I did not discuss the gantry and how to square nor did I discuss the z axis. There are a lot of details to get the machine setup right. The use of 3,4,5 is a great method of establishing a square corrner.
Saw you have video on the shoppie penhold would like to know where I could purchase the same one that you use thank you very much
Phil Johnson is the one who designed it. You can reach him here designsbyphil.com
Hi PawPaw, in the video you made several mentions of "AD" and "CD" for the diagonal measurements, did you actually mean "AD" and "CB" (Rather than CD)? Just want to make sure I was not missing something.
Yes, you must measure diagonally across the machine. Did not catch the error until after the video was posted. Part of the reason that I am on disability. Can't think quite as clearly as I once did and I try to check and double check everything. Thank you
Yes! I thought it was just me! No worries though, we understood what you meant!
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thank you for posting the video an helping many of us!
I wish you was my pawpaw…even though we close in age ;)
Hi I believe you and I might live close to each other. I am just getting started with my x carve here in Mandeville and would love to talk to you sometime. Thanks for the videos!
Do you offer any workshops or anything like that? I would even pay to learn to use my xcarve better.
No, I do not offer workshops at this time. Currently, I am only doing the videos. I am will to answer any questions that you may have.
Hello Mark, How are you coming along with your X-Carve? I live in Pearl River so I'm not that far from you either.
I like the wood stick idea....i may try that tomorrow.....using a tape measure to measure the diagonal accurately is vitually impossible
der ddd. Don’t forget the stick between the rails to keep things parallel. The sticks work extremely well. Very accurate.
Has anyone tried to simple screw the Xcarve to a base without the waste board like the Oneinfinity CNC concept? Reason I’m asking is cause I’m going to do that and place support aluminum plates along the Y axis. I will also be using aluminum L-brackets for the feet’s to secure everything down.
I think you have a great plan. It should work just fine. Good luck. Please let me know how it works for you.
I have a long tapered bit that was recommended for doing an inlay but I am not sure how to add it to easel. Suggestions?
There is now real way to enter it into easel. The best way is to use the approximate diameter of the bit and enter that information
Wow, this method is awesome. Qq: if long side was 1380 and short side was 1374, the difference is 6, so would it work to just move the long side over 3mm? Thanks for laying this out in such a complete manner.
Yes, that should work. That's a good start. Double check it until the sides are equal. Don't complicate it. Use the sticks and measure until when measuring there is only one line when you measure both directions.
If they incorporated a some sort of precision dowl pin assembly it could be built square i believe
That's a good idea.
Which screws did u loosen. My machine is off, I believe on the Y axis as all my carves are.coming crooked, creeping up from left to right, about a 1/4 inch
The screws at the bottom of the plate on the y axis. That way they can slide left and right.
Could you screw this sticks to the waste board to keep your rails from shifting?
Why would you want to? It should not move and if it did move what is to say it would expand outward. The sticks would not help.
Ive never used v carve bits....where is a cheap place to buy?...and what would you recommend? 15 30 45 60 90 degrees?
60 and 90 are probably the most common bits used. You can get them at you local big box store. The other bits are based on your personal preferences and the type of projects that you plan to do. Inventables also has a good selection of bits also.
It’s been a long time since I’ve used my xcarve. I know something it out. But I don’t know what. I inherited from my brother when he closed his woodshop. So I was not the one that put it together. I think there’s definitely value in putting it together.
I haven’t used my cnc for over a year. Probably closer to a year and a half. But when i stopped part of the reason was that there was something off. One side of the bed was cutting deeper than the other. I had my husband check some things and I resurfaced my spoil board but it’s still off. I want to make some projects but it would require it to be cutting correct depths. I wonder if this video will help solve the problem? I just don’t know enough about it to know if it’s out of square or something else. It won’t hurt to try squaring it.
It’s great to hear from you again. It actually sound like your machine may be twisted as well as out of square. I would try setting the machine on a known perfectly flat surface. Then loosen the bolts and make sure it’s sitting completely flat and then square the machine. Don’t forget the gantry, pull it to the front and make sure that the gantry hits evenly on both sides of the Y axis front rails.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks. I watched another of your videos about calibrating it. I feel like I have at least a good place to start and investigate. Thank you so much.
Will this method work if the wide marker is crooked? when I slide the Gantry all the way to the bottom I hit the left plate first and about 1" away from hitting the right plate
You must get the base square first, then move the gantry all the way to either the front or back. It must be adjusted until it it even on both side
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks for the response! I have tried 2 times. I used a square on each rail to make sure they were all square. also the 1000MM rails are sticking out past the wasterboard 30MM on each corner like the instructions say, so not sure what I'm missing but I will try it again tonight! I've been watching your videos and I have learned a ton from you! Thanks for all you do for us newbies
Thank you for the video, per your method mine is not square in the process of adjusting
Awesome, this is the easiest method that I have designed using no special tools.
Hopefully now my xbox carve is square
But did you cut out or engrave a large rectangle with the machine and measure the diagonals of the part to make sure the machine is actually cutting square?..that excarve is very similar to the neje laser i bought..i struggled getting it square and even though the frame was square the machine still wasn't cutting square..i had to put some shims in the x rail on one side to get it..its still not perfect but is now acceptable to what i do..im thinking about getting a shapeoko pro and that thing had better stay in square or i will not be happy..ive read some ppl recommend checking square before every project and i sure do want that!..instead of throwing away 3 grand i would rather spend 12 to get something that is accurate
I do not believe it is necessary. When I setup my machine and I know it is square then it will machine the projects correctly. No, I do not square the machine each time. That’s just crazy. Setup the machine once then enjoy making the projects. You do not have to continue messing with the setup unless something actually happens to change the setup.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks for the info..yeah its just that what i make( fairly large rectangles) need to be square..i have to pull my gantry forward up against the hard stops and hold them there while i turn on the power so the motors will lock the gantry square with the y rails..if i just turn on the machine without being up against the stops it will not cut square at all..there is a lot of twist and play in the x gantry to the y rails..i just figured these hobby rotors are going to be the same maybe just not quite as loose..do you have to do that or do you just turn on the machine wherever the gantry is?
I just turn on the machine wherever the gantry is located. The gantry does not move unless the machine is on
Out of the blue, my x axis drifts by 3/32” from the front to the back. My frame is squared and I’ve squared and trammed x and z. Any ideas? I didn’t realize it until I tiled a project and and I kept being 3/32” off when I slide the project to the second half.
That is a small amount for normal carving and you most likely never noticed it. However, for tiling it a whole different world. That will make a difference. I would check everything again.
@@PawPawsWorkShop thank you. I just 3 stage tiled an 8 foot board a few weeks ago and it was fine. Just started happening this past week. Maybe a screw came loose or something.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks again. I was about 4mm out of square.
That will do it! It does not take much to mess up a tiling operation
What size x carve is this? 1000mm x 1000mm?
Yes, this is the 1000mmx1000mm
Sure will......im sure most peoples xcarve are not square since there is no built in assembly process that assures its square which they should redesign so that it is assembled square
You are probably right. However, there are so many variations in people's machines that may make it very difficult. This simple method ensures that the machine is square.
You are saying the short (410mm) line is C to D and its not its C to B...
Yes you are correct. I made a mistake and have addressed this before in the comments. Thank you very much.
This is not on the books great !! Tks
You're welcome
C to B diagonal not C to D !
Yes, I misspoke thank you
I've heard good feedback about the Woodglut plans.
how to do it it's "easy" first you use calculus so simple...
Thank you for your comment. I attempted to demonstrated the most straight forward method with the least amount of math to achieve the desired results. (Three stick Method) I needed a good laugh, thank you.
That's far from calculus. It's basic geometry.
So much no maths lol
Lol, so simple with the correct technique