Darn, the ONE THING I NEEDED TO SEE and he never shines a light on that spot: where the business end of the tube attaches to. The switch end is shown perfectly, of course.
I'm changing the vacuum switch on my Vistaflame VF100 pellet stove. I tested with a jump wire and this seems to be the issue. My question is.... The new vacuum switch has + and - next to the pegs for the wires. Does it matter which wire goes to which peg? ("pegs" for lack of knowing what to call those 'sticky outty things') Or can I just hook them back up, paying no attention to the order? My old switch didn't have the + and -.
My Quadra Fire (AE) has a Vacuum Sw. Error. If after jump the leads and still have the same error, the Auger Housing was filled with wood dust over the years due to moisture that clogged the dropped down hole to the pot. I removed the Auger from the Auger Housing and cleaned the wood dust inside the Auger chamber, in which the Auger does the feeding of the pellet wood down into the pot. When I put the Vacuum Sw. laying down flat on the ground to check for its continuity, it read closed (has continuity). When it is standing vertical (on sideway as mounting position), the continuity read opened. That means Switch is still good. .
How is the vacuum switch tested to make sure it that?? Is it a "normally open" switch or "normally closed"? if so.. can you suck or blow on the tube with a ohm meter to test it?
I have the same model. I replaced it once since 2008. Today (10052017) I noticed my Quandary-Fire (AE) has the same message Vacuum Sw Error. After I jumped, the stove started releasing wood pellets down to the pot. I then checked the continuity of the Switch, and find out the Switch is on the closed position (read 0.1 ohm from post to post). I assume the closed position is bad and open position is good switch. Base on my experiences of AE module repaired in the last 9 years, the TC gone bad once, Igniter gone bad 4 times, and the Vacuum Sw. gone bad twice. I did all myself with the help of UA-cam. I hope this would answer your question. By the way, to keep your igniter last longer is to put a spacer between the igniter and the frame to prevent the igniter contacting the frame so it doesn't burn out. I learned this after I went through the first three igniters.
Darn, the ONE THING I NEEDED TO SEE and he never shines a light on that spot: where the business end of the tube attaches to. The switch end is shown perfectly, of course.
I'm changing the vacuum switch on my Vistaflame VF100 pellet stove. I tested with a jump wire and this seems to be the issue. My question is.... The new vacuum switch has + and - next to the pegs for the wires. Does it matter which wire goes to which peg? ("pegs" for lack of knowing what to call those 'sticky outty things') Or can I just hook them back up, paying no attention to the order? My old switch didn't have the + and -.
My Quadra Fire (AE) has a Vacuum Sw. Error. If after jump the leads and still have the same error, the Auger Housing was filled with wood dust over the years due to moisture that clogged the dropped down hole to the pot.
I removed the Auger from the Auger Housing and cleaned the wood dust inside the Auger chamber, in which the Auger does the feeding of the pellet wood down into the pot.
When I put the Vacuum Sw. laying down flat on the ground to check for its continuity, it read closed (has continuity). When it is standing vertical (on sideway as mounting position), the continuity read opened. That means Switch is still good.
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How is the vacuum switch tested to make sure it that?? Is it a "normally open" switch or "normally closed"? if so.. can you suck or blow on the tube with a ohm meter to test it?
Not sure, I replaced it because there was an error on the wall unit.
I have the same model. I replaced it once since 2008. Today (10052017) I noticed my Quandary-Fire (AE) has the same message Vacuum Sw Error. After I jumped, the stove started releasing wood pellets down to the pot. I then checked the continuity of the Switch, and find out the Switch is on the closed position (read 0.1 ohm from post to post). I assume the closed position is bad and open position is good switch. Base on my experiences of AE module repaired in the last 9 years, the TC gone bad once, Igniter gone bad 4 times, and the Vacuum Sw. gone bad twice. I did all myself with the help of UA-cam. I hope this would answer your question. By the way, to keep your igniter last longer is to put a spacer between the igniter and the frame to prevent the igniter contacting the frame so it doesn't burn out. I learned this after I went through the first three igniters.
my stove gives the error "vacuum switch alarm" does that mean it has to be replaced or is there another solution to this error?
I would vacuum out the exhaust pipe and the blower and see if that works. Good luck.
thanks works fine for time being
Outstanding! thank you.
You didn’t show out mention where the hose went and didn’t show where the wires Connect