Is this 55 Gallon Barrel Stove Safe? (Judge for Yourself!)
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- I used a 55 Gallon Barrel as a Wood stove in my shop. I tested out a kit that turns a 55 gallon drum into a woodturning stove. Is this safe? You be the judge...
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You might want to move the stove over.Away from the wood beam you have it against. The heat might start it on fire. And the rubber boot you put on the roof is going to melt and start letting in the elements. And if yo would have stacked a second barrel on top and ran pipe from front to back , you could have put a fan behind to blow warm air into the shop.
Yeah, I do need to move it over. The boot should be ok though. It’s made of silicone
that Isa silicone boot and it won't melts they use them in hot tents
Was about ready to say the same thing looks little to close or even slide a peace of metal behind it at least just for safe measures.
My stove has the ribs on the barrel. Easily remedied with furnace cement.
@@DIYMAN You didn't really have to move it.. You could just get slide a metal shield there and stand it off of the wood a bit. The stove will heat the shield, but the steel shield shouldn't really get hot enough to bother the wood--- a long as it's not touching it.
Just a thought for you. I put a layer of fire brick in the bottom of mine just coming up the sides slightly. Covering about a third of the barrel.Then put a log grate from a fireplace inside to keep the fire from direct contact of the bottom so as not to burn out the bottom of the barrel. Works great in my shop and haven't had to replace the barrel yet. Going on 11 years.
Great first build
FYI
Adding 24inches clearance to the back is a MUST (so you dont burn the paint on the outside of the building), also wrap the wall, especially wood, with heat reflective materials. Add second barrel on top and you will retain 80% more heat. Hanging a box fan blowing air through the 2 barrels really ramps effectiveness.
These are just old man lessons we have learned up here in Montana and Idaho
Good luck, always have fun, and keep innovating!
I don’t know why I didn’t see this comment sooner. Thanks for the tips!
I think since you already got the pipe ran so nice you could take a hear shield behind it. Dirock and maybe bricks behind that to sheild the wood and outside paint. Probably not code lol
I got on here just to see if someone else mentioned this.
Also he should have burned the paint off the barrel outside before installing it.
Shouldn’t there be an air gap between the chimney and the roofing tin?
This isn’t true mine is less that 12 inches from the wall I ran sheet metal along the wall behind the stove. It’s been burning everyday for months with no issues
ALWAYS remove the lids of a sealed container (if possible) when cutting into it. Trust me, I learned this the hard way
If your unable to remove lid you are able to fill them with water then cut
If you were to put the door as high as possible you could fill the bottom of the barrel with sand and a layer of fire brick. This keeps the bottom of the barrel from burning through so fast as the ashes are very caustic and degrade the metal.
I cant begin to explain how lucky you were. Cutting i to a barrel that had high ictane race fuel with the caps still on and not vented, that couldve went a whole lot different.
You had me at "instructions let's throw those away" ,,,😂
😂
@@DIYMAN I never subscribe to anything,I was cracking up and my wife said WTH are you laughing at? I said I just found a long lost relative.F instructions!! That's why God put a picture on the box , 😂
the two things i would stress is do something about that rubber gasket where your pipe went through the roof.....and being way too close to the wood purling.....that is a fire waiting to happen....double wall pipe and a proper roof penetration kit (expensive but your shop is worth a whole lot more) ..i know probably code would say 3 feet from the wall, you could sneak by with 2....My config is a double barrel in the corner of my shop and i lined the wall with 1/2 inch concrete board and to absorb heat. For those cold days I'm out there all day i also had some old cinder blocks that i have stacked between the stove and building to absorb heat and it even radiates heat after the fire is gone....For the inside of the burning box i lined the bottom with sand and used some regular cinder cap blocks flat and an old fireplace grate turned longways to hold the wood up off the burning surface and for a little more protection i leaned cap blocks on the inside at an angle on either side of the grate....finely get some good stove spray paint for the off season....after the fire burns off all the barrel paint its going to rust like crazy in the summer....stove paint goes on black and flat and wont stink when you start firing it up next winter... i love my heating barrel and the days you spend all day out there working....b4 u start in the morning cut some potatoes and onions up in quarters ...a couple pats of butter, drizzle some olive oil over the whole thing....sprinkle salt, rosemary, thyme and some cracked pepper ....roll it all up good in some aluminum foil and once it gets burning good, place it on the top of the stove......and in an hour or two (depending on how hot you keep your stove) lunch...the smell is awesome too......enjoy
Thanks Gary!
I had a double barrel one, one barrel mounted on top of the other the heat throw out was unbelievable and used to burn low all night the workshop was mad hot early on a winters morning fantastic.
you did good. If you cut out the flue hole first you can get your arm straight through to leg bolts. I also turned my bolts around after it was secure so they don't stick up on the inside and as someone else said I cut a hole in the wall instead of messing up the roof and the spring actually works better if connected to the latch instead of the door
I've got a double barrel stove in each of my shops. You should have at least 24 -36 inches all the way around it because they get about 700 degrees and will burn off the paint on your building steel. Also single wall flue pipe is ok on the inside but you should have double wall trough the roof and extend above the ridge of the building it will draw better. I have built several and I use the barrels with removable lids makes it easy. I also put them on a stand. Building another one now for the greenhouse.
Awesome! Thanks for the tips. I’m going to have to adjust mine a little bit before next winter
Can you help me with getting mine going?
@@OCDbrand they're lots of videos that show how to assemble one.
I had a double barrel one, fantastic bit of kit, if your building one for your greenhouse it must be some size. 👍
If anyone builds one of these make sure you have the 2" hole at the bottom instead of the 3/4" hole for better airflow to the stove if needed
The "Bungs"... belong on the back !
Wonder how long the actual barrel lasts . I wanna do fire stone in mine . I would
Like to build one
@@brandonfolk6442i have one 10yrs old. You need to line the bottom of the barrel with sand and cover that with fire brick from a stove store. The bung goes on the bottom and you can thread in a breather tube that is buried in the sand under the brick, add a flipper door to it for extra air flow. (You drill the tube for ventilation) If you get two barrel kits and stack them you can use the top barrel as a smoker of fill it with copper tube and pump water through it into a radiator for a radiant heater in a separate room. Just needs a small pump from a hot tub and some other bits and bobs. The back and sides get red hot so its best to have good clearance and add a hardy board box around the back three sides to contain the heat and help distribute it away from the walls.
The bung was too low after putting in fire bricks. Had to go on top
I used a barrel that had a removable lid, as it's face when set horizontal to aid in the clean out of ashes.
There are two types of removable lids, clamp type and a ring type that locks in place with a bolt.
I also lined the bottom with firebrick and used a heavy gauge expanded steel as a grating.
The brand of kit was a Vogalzang.
I have seen modifications you can get for the flue pipe, like a splitter manifold that divides into four smaller pipes to make a more effective radiator. Also a module that was like an enameled metal box with a small oven inside.
That’s super cool. I like the metal oven idea. That could come in handy if the power goes out or something and we needed to cook or something
The thing your talking about with the flue pipe going threw a box with horizontal pipes going threw that caught on fire at my old house highly recommend not using one it collects soot and can catch on fire lucky my parents were home and noticed the basement was filled with smoke and could put it out before it caused too much damage coal/wood furnace
Enjoyable watch, thank you. Good comments also. I do fancy trying the double barrel approach. Cheers. Gee.
Thanks!
If you cut the chimney hole you can reach through for the rear leg bolts 🤙🏽 I made a hot fire in mine outside before moving in my shop to burn the paint off as well and place the larger drain hole on bottom for a lot of air flow to make it hot
Very good video Diy man ! Ive got a very similar building at my place . I Think a follow up video is in order .Did the paint melt off the stove? Did your chimney boot leak ? Would you recommend this setup?
Thanks! Yes, I should have burned the paint off. The boot works awesome. I should have made the chimney another 2 feet longer or so so it would draw better. Other than that, it works just fine. I really need to cover the wood up with some fire resistant material though
I would put some sand in the bottom and lay a few flat landscaping brick on top of that to clean ur ashes out and eliminate the burn through. I had a cast iron barrel stove one time and the thing was incredible...
Please post a follow up! Cold weather coming OK this week!
stack bricks and center blocks under and around it to absorb and radiate the heat. and add a flat metal slab on top to heat other stuff like coffee or pot of beans.
Can you do an update and show us what not following the minimum distance to combustibles did to the wood post and wall strapping?
I’ve used many drums and put bricks in bottom and sand last longer and heats fast to, using box fan to move heat around shop
This old welder used to tell me all the time “That’s exactly how I would have done it if I didn’t know what I was doing” lol. Hopefully your shop is still standing and you made improvements 🤞🏽🤞🏽🤞🏽
Lol. It’s still there. We did a few improvements after the video
They are safe I put one in 5 years ago I decided to go with the 18 gauge unpainted barrel at menards I really like it put it about 16 inches of the floor I had other wood stoves but I like this one the best thanks for the video
If you want that barrel to last get yourself a 1/4 plate steel floor liner for the inside of that stove !
Yeah, I’m probably going to build a small grate for the bottom as well
@@DIYMAN I've heard that you are supposed to put sand on the bottom. I assume to keep the hot coals from the bottom of the drum
I’d like to try that
Kind of ironic someone makes a video asking if these things are safe and then puts it in contact with two pieces of lumber.
I’ve never actually used - or even seen in real life - a barrel stove. My concerns based upon what I can see are:
a) Very little thermal mass - it seems like it would go dead cold quickly.
b) Very limited air control - which is everything.
c) Hard to maintain temperature over time.
d) Seems like it could consume a LOT of wood if you let it.
e) Seems like the drum could burn through pretty fast - especially if it gets run hot.
I realize that there are a ton of other factors. These are just my observations.
With the cost of purchased firewood - or even the considerable intangible costs in cash and and time to cut, split, and stack wood from your own property, I want to make sure that I’m getting the maximum return in BTU’s that I can get.
Of this I’m sure: I’m sure that I’d really appreciate warming up in front of a barrel stove in deer camp after a cold, snowy day sitting on a stand, but even the deer aren’t moving because the weather is so lousy.
My cousin had one in his garage the past 2 years the garage is not installed and we was able to get it up to 90 degrees in there on the coldest of days we just got 20 below 0 and we got it up to 90 he now got a real wood stove and we can only get it up to 70 in there dont no if he's got a problem somewhere so
@@thorodinson1843😮
If you have a bunch of saw dust build up you can get a fire starter brick maker make bricks of them to burn in the stove. Essentially with saw dust all you need to do is put it in a container and soak it in water with mulched up paper or coffee grounds or ripped up old tea bags, something along those lines to act as a binder, and once mixed just put some in the brick maker and press the water out then sit that brick aside to dry. I know of some that do a lot of wood working and take the saw dust and old news paper to make bricks and burn them during the winter months when the stove is going to keep the shop warm. If you're wondering, they aren't really expensive, single brick maker runs around $40-45 USD but a 4 brick runs about $90, you can even make your own like I've seen some do. That's just a thought I had when I saw you putting saw dust in it and thought since you're a fellow DIY person you might like that idea. Great video too!!
This is awesome! I didn’t even know that was a thing! I’m getting one. Thank you so much for the commment!
Seem to be a bit close to that Wood Beam. Otherwise I think I am going to make one. Hey if you can do it I'm pretty sure I can right?
But seriously - I like your stand, I will alter mine a bit and I don't think I will need the kit. I thinking or a stand tall enough to maybe put an ash barrel under for the cleaning process. I also think those legs are kind of a pain idea. Just need a Door, vent, and flue. Well and the pipe to vent. Great work.
Thanks! Yeah, I’m a little close. I plan on covering that with something to block the heat. Good luck!
I worked in a 45x80 foot automotive garage and it had a double 55 gallon barrel wood stove one barrel on top of the other, this was back in 1981 and on a zero degree day it would keep that shop at 62 degrees with the overhead doors going up and down during the day... I had fired the stove exceedingly hot one day and in the upper barrel it melted the small plug out of it which was a good thing because it put just enough oxygen on the fire that the creosote problem we had dripping off the stove pipe onto the floor had stopped all together and it burned more efficiently than it had when that little plug was in... Line your barrel with fire brick and you will have a great working stove, hang a small fan above the barrel and it will circulate the heat throughout your place....
That spring looking piece is your handle for the door
What is a wooden mast doung only inches away from the rear?
Reminds me of that song.burnin down the house
Got one of these in my garage, although it's 2 barrels, one on top of the other...on it's side. It also has a pipe goes up through the roof. Haven't used it...came with the house.
I saw that double barrel kit. Didn’t think I needed two of them.
Cut hole for stove pipe before affixing back legs so you can reach in to bolt them on.
Nice job my friend 👍🏽
We had a barrel stove when I was a kid... was not a kit stove either.. and they can get super hot... One thing I noticed, was that your stove was dangerously close to the 2X4 behind and beside it.....Things CAN ignite from simple heat....You need to put something between the boards and the stove, or you might possibly have a "flame on " situation...
Pls show us an update of the condition of the barrel after 11 months use ??
I had a quick question about the paint on the VP can will it burn off under extreme temperatures or has yours stayed stable
It has mostly burned off. I would need to get a high heat paint if I wanted to keep it covered with something
Nice job mate they seem to do the trick. Good thinking to make it a bit higher too.
Thanks! Yeah, I don’t think I would’ve liked it being that low to the ground
Hey young Feller what you doing putting the stove tied up against the 2x 4 and a six by six pressure-treated does not mean burn proof
Sawdust (Almost*) never burns as well as you'd think. A mate's dad used to pack sawdust into any cardboard box around the size of a breakfast cereal carton he could find. He'd also add a little used cooking oil into them as a binder. The finished bricks would burn a lot like like softwood......... The only down side was that you'd go into his living room and catch the faint small of chips (Fries), then instantly start feeling hungry. :D
(* Be careful of throwing handfuls/shovels of fine sawdust into a lit fire. If it's partical size is small enough, once it becomes airborne it can be explosive. A fare few sawmills have become VERY open plan because if this. You've unlikely to get more than a "Whoomph" and a foot or so of flame shooting out of the door with an opening that big in the front, but it can still shoot embers and chunks of burning wood out too, so it's best not to be too vigorous when adding sawdust).
That is very interesting! Thanks for the comment!
Put the sawdust in first as a 4 inch layer. The hot coals will burn down into it. Wood chips work well also.
How long until the fire burns through the barrel?
Maybe double wall them for extra safety
IF YOU WANT IT UP HIGHER OFF THE FLOOR~ Couldn't you get some type of block to raise it up? A friend of mine did and he made a "shelf" underneath that is used to keep food warm...just a suggestion.
I would like a fallow up report on the stove.. I just built a double barrel version and have only built a very small fire in it to cure the paint, as it’s still very warm where I live. But I’m at least 24” away from a wall and I’m concerned I may have to put a heat shield up. Your right next to the wall. Any updates would be great..
I have burned scrap wood in mine a few times, and it does get pretty hot. I definitely need to put up a heat shield. I would recommend concrete board. It’s not the prettiest, but it does a good job blocking the heat.
The only thing I see is to close to the wall and that wood post. Good job.👍 building that stove.
Thanks!
Hey dude you got that too close to your wood It will burn it too. Was that thing you put up on your roof Is that fireproof It look like it was rubber?
Figured by now you’ve read and heard all the comments.I’ve been running a double barrel stove for 10 years now. They make a grill that goes inside the barrel. I filled the bottom with sand, about a half inch from the bottom of the vent and put the grill on the sand. That keeps the fire from burning through the barrel. As you know, by now, it has to be at least 2 feet away from the back wall and the same on each side. I’m guessing that a year later you’ve burnt through the rubber grommet on your roof vent and it’s leaking. I came off the top of the stove about 10 inches and then went out the back wall of the shop.
If you ever replace it, make sure to do the first burn outside so all that paint on the barrel doesn’t stink up your shop.
I hope your insurance agent hasn't stumbled into this video.
Awesome video man ! Love it , definitely add a bunch of firebrick in there and it will make it last a long time and you will get even hotter and longer burns and hold hot coals 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks!
i gave you a thumbs up on the stove pipe issue.....most folks don't know what they are getting....yea!
i did not have a camera going when i put my pipe together, but i know it is a pain
Great job, but I'd be concerned how close you have it to that wood post on your wall.
That's awesome but my husband is a chimney inspector and the stove needs to be 18 inches from the wall. Plus there's a 10/2 rule for the chimney. God Bless. Everyone got to be a critical
Putting a 90° facing inward then down about 10ft up would get it away from the wall, and put heat shield up behind it going up where it's close to the wall. I heard you say you plan to extend the chimney up top, thats good. Nice build!
Thanks for the tip!
@@DIYMAN thanks for the video 👍🏻
Put the 2 inch bung facing down. Add a 2-in ball valve with associated black pipe to the outside. Bringing outdoor air into the combustion chamber. Creating a fresh air intake. I have a ball valve to slow it down on mine works great
Was that silicone you sealed the roof flange with? If so it will not hold. You have to use butyl rubber on metal.
I actually don’t remember
My dad's garage caught fire from 1, his buddy loaded it up , it turned cherry red, and the wall burst in flames
A 36 inch clearance is advisable for adequate distances on all sides. Put fire retardant board with brick on top for a stove board and base foundation for use in a house devoid of a concrete floor. Line the inside with fire brick for heat retention and coals. A top baffling with steel secondary burn pipes and flu damper should make a very good stove for garage or old cabin. Installation in a modern home should be at ones own discretion. I think this type of wood burning stove is more appropriate for pole,barn old cabin ,or work shop.
Yea I see others have said get the paint off outside, the barrel is too close to the wall, and you should have put a roof box at the top with stainless double wall through the roof and on the outside it definitely needs a storm collar, then the pipe needs to be at least 2 ft above the highest point on the roof. Oh and the barrel needs fire bricks on the bottom a thin barrel will burn out in no time.
I have a simple question. I bought this kit also and I'm wanting to install it since my local gas station is trying to charge me $6.60 per gallon of kerosene. Can you please tell me whether or not it is recommended that you use a double lined or triple lined flew pipe as opposed to the single wall that you used? Someone told me you have to get it hot enough to create a suction so that smoke doesn't roll back down into your shop. Let me know if this is correct or your thoughts on this?
Single wall is good unless you’re going through a wall or something made of flammable materials. I would’ve used insulated pipe if I was going through a ceiling full of wood and insulation, but only on for the pipe going through these areas
Spend the money for a class A 2000 degree chimminy kit.
If you install the flu collar first, you can use a socket and extension to tighten the hardware on the rear legs.
That would have been the smart way to do it lol
@@DIYMAN It's always easier when you're sitting on this side of the monitor. lol
@@jonnporter6081 lol, so true. It didn’t even cross my mind until I was done 😂
ALWAYS take the bunghole lid out of the barrel before cutting into it. Don't ask me how I learned this lesson!
What about a grate ? After a while the Ash will kill the fire
Put fire brick around the bottom maybe half way up the side on the inside then make a great or buy some , I like old railroad spikes welded together then you can burn the 3 foot logs with lots of heat , and you might want to burn off the paint first
I pretty sure they make a tool to put stove pipe together but I'm not too sure could just be a normal tool that was used but my buddy's dad put a Decent bit together with something
That would have been handy when I was assembling them. I’ll have to look into that
My name is Nicky Pate I want you to do more videos like this because I like you building stuff like furnaces it's just cool how you build I like your videos
Thank you! I’m hoping to build lots more in the future. I’m right in the middle of a big move right now, so I had to take a little bit of a break, but I’ll be back
Use the hole for the Chimney to reach the back legs
Throw away the instructions then state you don't know what this thingy is.
Brilliance is priceless
😂
Of course they are safe!!! When one installs a 5 foot square pad underneath it(mine is of slate tiles over backer board)there is no chance of harm to the floor.And if one uses a piece of diamond plate aluminum propped at an angle in front of the vents,there is no chance of sparks blowing out onto the floor. The biggest problem comes with insurance...most insurance carriers do not accept these stoves for use in the home.
I’m thinking about doing this myself. I have a 22x24 shop, would that warm up my shop enough?
If it’s insulated, yes
I’m definitely not afraid of heights. That pesky little thing called gravity is always at work. You definitely did a great job.I would have lost something in the first 10 minutes.
😂 that’s very true lol
D.i.y. man that chimney pipe should be at least 36 inches above the roof also i think you had your ladder upside down
Edit that stove is entirely to close to that wall and post
Where its at now you are absolutely going to have a fire please sir
Move that stove to minimum of 3 feet away from that wall and post
We used a 55 gal drum as wood stove for years, my dad would have that thing glowing
Put the sawdust in a kleenex box, shoe box, basically anything combustible you can collect the dust in, works alot better. Also, look into flue heights the flue should be several feet higher then what you have.
Yes, the flue definitely needed a raise. Great idea on the Kleenex boxes though
If you'll put a few inches of sand or fine dirt in the bottom it'll keep the bottom of barrel from burning out as quick.
Thanks for the tip!
I don't disagree with doing it. But. The barrels are so thin walled. That is my concern.
How well does it heat your shop? I have a 30x60 uninsulated shop in Colorado, think it would make a difference?
It definitely helps a lot, but the shop really needs to be insulated. My shop is 26x26 and when it’s in the 30s, it was bringing it up into the 50s
@@DIYMAN ok thanks!
Pre burn the barrel outside and get it hot to burn off the paint.
Move the stove out from wall and any combustible material like wood beams at least 36"
But yes, they make great heaters for a shop, I have one just like it. 👍
Cool idea with the sawdust.
Put it in a paper bag and then put some use cooking oil in it and then hold the bag closed and shake the crap out of it.. throw it in the fire and it will burn great
I’m in Oklahoma as well. Tulsa area
That’s awesome! Small world!
The first fire should be outside. The damper should be in the stove pipe half way to the ceiling. From st.Paul,Minnesota.
Great point. Thank you
18 to 24 inches from any object I also put fire brick on the bottom of mine.
Be easier to get to the bolts for the back legs after you cut hole for the chimney.
I agree with a few of the other guy move that thing away from the wall brother. That 2/4 will definitely catch on fire. And those things get hot will we’re your metal and peeel the paint right off.
Yeah, i need to. My original plan was to put some concrete board on the wall behind it
It’s been over a year ! Is it still intact or did it burn thru yet ? I’d like to make one
I ended up moving so I didnt use it a ton.
Sweetheart the reason it sits so low is so you have the heat from it traveling further through the room before hanging around the ceiling 😊!!!
I read one of your commentors mentioned a second barrel and a fan to blow the heat from over it to down maby into the room or I suppose you could invest in one of those heat reactive fans mounted on top to do the same but maby not as efficiently as his suggestion!!! But considerably less work and $denero$ !!!!!
But he's definitely spot on when being wary of hazardous situations with the hot 🔥🥵 stuff😊 please 🥺 be careful handsome!!!!😊
Have you Burnt that shop down yet? Already had comments to fix it I want to know if you burned it down yet
Lol. Not yet
Stove pipe needs to be a minimum of 24" from the roofing deck. Your stove should be 24" away from combustible materials so you should seal that wood post and sleeper near the butt of that stove.
Kindo of clise to wood at back and side I would say!
The spring is for the door Handel is what I’m guessing
It is
Little close to the Wood in the wall?
Yeah, I am going to add some heat shielding to that
I lined the bottom and one row up with 1" fire bricks.
Did you really put a single walled pipe through a rubber gasket on the roof? Did it melt the rubber after a hot fire?
It’s silicon lol. It’ll handle the heat
@@DIYMAN Cool. I was wondering
That barrel is too close to the wood post and purlin. I would also add an additional pipe outside to ensure the top is above the peak of the roof. nice job.
Yeah, I will probably put some kind of shielding on that post. I haven’t decided what yet. I do plan on adding another second of pipe to the top as well. I don’t like how close it is to the roof either
@@DIYMAN This is good advice, from the angle in the video it looks very close to the wall, I'm not sure I would be comfortable just adding a heat shield. Seriously consider moving that out further from the wall in addition to a heat shield.
I appreciate that. I will see if I can move it out a little more
Yeah, I’d be surprised if that 2x4 purlin hasn’t burned up by now… 😳
You did it the hard way!
I vented it out the back (bottom of the barrel, at the top with the barrel lying flat) and cut a 6" round hole in my shop wall through which I passed galvanized (way cheaper and more readily available) vent pipe.
I made up the entire vertical run of flu pipe, including the termination cap, screwing it all together AT GROUND LEVEL, then merely strapped it to the overhanging eve.
My method allows all the stove (30-gallon barrel in my case) to be inside like yours, but all the nasty parts, which could leak or catch fire (flu fire) are outside, making the installation way safer as well as not having to cut and seal a hole in my roof!
Now, to answer your question, "Is it safe?"
ABSOLUTELY NOT!
Well, yours is not. You're going to set that post and purlen on fire - 🔥 too close to wood.
My shop is all steel.
PS - start a tiny fire at the back and get a draft going up your flu before lightning the main fire and the stove won't belch smoke through the combustion air inlet, filling up your shop with smoke.
You got the kit installed correctly.
Better read up on wood stove clearances and chimney heights.
Your asking for trouble with your placement.
Have not read the comments...
But you want your pipe above 2 feet of your peak...
Also you have the wrong cap..
It cant breathe
So smoke will back up..
Keep it away from wood.meaning wood beams..clear silcone around the flashing, smooth well.lay barrel down on side test fit legs leval to be sure they are aligned.level on damper also.
You also want to buy a volgelzang cast iron grate that goes inside..so your not overheating your barrel floor.the original height of the legs is perfect on a concrete floor due to heat naturally rises so i dont recommend raising it any higher..
The back legs you put on after you drill the damper hole..easy to reach.lastly,be sure that you get a "heavy duty" barrel not a cheapie
If you tap on it it should be a thud.
Not a ring and a echo...the most we have got from one barrel is 12 full winters
Then youll get a pinhole.
Best wishes.
We have used this forever
They work fantastic.
The spring goes on the door handle
How much was the stove kit
I think it was about $85 when I bought it
In Australia we use the original gallon from Britain, a 200 litre drum is actually 44 gallons of so we refer to it as a 44 gallon drum, one innovation would be to turn the top of it into an oven by adding a baking compartment to the top. Take out the small bung which allows more air into them, they burn much more efficiently with the extra oxygen.
That’s super interesting. I had no idea