The turbo cooldown is also ignored with car owners, giving all turbo vehicles a bad rep when it user error. But it is tough to sit in running truck when I need to pee.
It’s definitely tough to wait sometimes! But your right, a lot of the bad rep comes from user error and not the vehicle itself and that goes for most things
@@jl6.790do you recommend the turbo cooldown all the time? Or just when you drive the piss out of your truck? Most of the time I drive my truck very very gently. Staying in the slow lane shifting around 1800 rpm (g56) and never really pounding the throttle. What scenario would you recommend the turbo cooldown?
I've had DODGE/RAM pickups since 1991, and I ONLY use HIGH QUALITY Engine oils{AMSOIL 100 % Synthetic} I also only use high quality oil filters and duel filters. My drain intervals mare usually 20- 25 K. I do OIL ANALY SIS at least once every 50 K miles, and the reports ALWAYS come back with EXCELLANT results!, and I NEVER add ATF or 2-stroke oil in the fuel, but I do believe in a HIGH QUALITY DIESEL FUEL Additive!
2-5 minutes cool down is a must oil in turbo will cake from heat if your idling around that's one thing but pulling then shut it off hot it will destroy it
You are the best on this I do everything you say and I have 675000 thousand miles on my 2003. I leave home in the morning and never cut it off in the day and time I knock out a thousand miles a day. 👍
I 'am watching your video '' so far you have been spot-on '' until Now ''' you say A.T.F wont Hurt anything ''' I'm a 40 year retired trucker ''' your 'almost' right '' the truth is it wont hurt the motor at all' infact the motor loves it ' But it 'Deuterates the inside of the Rubber Fuel Lines and the inside Collapses ' then your pump ''Looses'' Fuel & Pressure '''' Bad Deal '' and it may very well burn the pump up too ''''' but so far you have been spot-on ''' james.
I would recommend as a additive for lubrication '' Cheapest you can find '2' cycle oil mix '''''' I've seen it selling in 5 gallon bucket's at farm / ranch supply.... If your driving a newer one with all that pollution devices under it.... evenly it might stop--up one of those devices under it' on the Exhaust.
Been in PM fleet management business for over 20 yrs and work all brands light medium and heavy duty gas and diesel and follow the book is fine we got customers with 500k no major issues and theres a few that have some issues but predominantly make it till time that they like to change them out. Got FL with the cummins and theres detroits and they go every 5k but they are an insulation company they have PTOs that run full time 8-10hrs a day so it equivalates out to 15-20k driven miles Changing early wont hurt anything by any means but it is a waste 10-15k is fine on a 12+ qt engine
PD Diesel mentioned in one of videos that running 10w30 on the fifth gen 6.7L Cummins is the way to go. I agree with him after switching from 5w40 for 85k miles to the 10w30. The hydraulic lifters like the thinner oil
I will say that out of the big 3, I currently own a 20 3500 Cummins this is my 5th Cummins "different gens", I own a 23 f350 and used to own a 22 GMC 3500, Ive deleted every truck, the ram deleted stock can handle more abuse then the others
I have a 2017 Ram 3500 6.7 diesel. P2609 code my heater grid. Apparently there is a nut that gets cooked and can fall off and go into the engine. I am about to get an upgrade. I can get a stock set up or I was thinking about the Banks Ram which would give it more air flow. Will I need to modify anything else if I go that way or am I better off staying with the stock option?
I installed a Banks Ram in my 2007 6.7 cummins last year. It came with everything I needed and more. No mods and the Banks video was very detailed and easy to follow. I am an old school back yard mechanic with no formal training btw. I am totall happy with it and have driven it across country twice this year pulling a 10,000 lb camper.
I have always wondered if all those grid heater bolts melted off by cycling the key a lot of times after a filter change . 🤔🤔i have never personally owned a newer truck but my work places have always gave me brand spanking new dodge work rigs and they have a lot of problems... So many pros and cons it's hard to hop out of a 2023 and into a 2006 and sometimes it's hard to get out of a 2006 into a 2023 ill just keep working them and Build them better when they break 💪 it's a real nightmare when you are bound to the dot rules especially. Most of the dot rules basically destroy all these good trucks
I agree completey with any sort of regulating body overseeing the use of diesels and their strict emissions requirements its a huge nightmare. Id love to eventually get a pre-emissions truck if I could find the right one. As for the comment about the grid heater the grid heater should only cycle if the outside temp is below 65 degrees F I believe or 18 C it shouldn't be kicking in, so as long as you're working inside and cycling it when its not that cold you shouldn't have that issue, Not anymore then the painful grid heater bolts already cause anyway
you dont need to cycle the lift pumps on newer 5th gens man, they dont back drain when you shut the truck off, they only release pressure. you do need to cycle when changing fuel filters though. you would be surprised how quickly EGT's go down. I run the Banks iDash and can see all 3 EGT sensors. Even pulling a 10k toy hauler above 6k ft elevation, the EGT's rarely get over 900deg. Coming off the highway to the house pulling the toy hauler, my EGTs can go from 800-900deg down to under 600deg in less than 1mi. I do idle while re-fueling on long trips (towing or not), but short trips running around town and re-fueling on the way home, I will shut the truck off...no issues...
yea probably could have been alittle safer with that lol, The first and only day in awhile nothing has been on them so I normally leave them up. Thankd for the comment!
Its a Ram not a Cummins. Big thing with these trucks are your lifters, you can't push your oil change intervals. If you want it to last change your oil every 8000 kms or 5000 miles. As for priming, cycling it more than once before start up does nothing, cycle the pump half dozen times for a filter change sure. But your system isn't going to develop air in the system overnight. Hit the button and let it do its cycle
Correct its a Ram truck but for every point made in the video its about Cummins engines and not the rams itself because these points dont pertain to 3/4 and 1 ton ram trucks with the Hemi engine. As for the priming as I mentioned in the video I only do it more then once when I worked on it like changing the filters. But every time I get in it I press the button to the Run position and let the pump run once then start it as you said. Thanks for the comment!
If i got a dodge 3500 dualy chassie, w/no engine in it... some of those older semi truck engines are cheap like the 10L &14L V8's or I6's. costs less then the speeder rice burner tax put over everything else... enter list of broken things because it is 3000 pounds not 700lb, just for 260HP... everything else is a manufactured failure that needs to be fully rebuilt every 3 hours bad as those flying bug bike engines.
From what ive seen best thing you can do it run the 15w-40 they used to run in the previous engines. I seen they had to run thinner oil in the new ones to beat emissions. And delete them obviously. Fuck the epa.
DO NOT RUN!!!!! 15/40 in 19+ ram cummins trucks. You will shit out the lifters. 5/40 or 10/30. I a million % agree with all the people saying 15/40 is the diesel oil yadayada but in these new ones just look at what the oil cap says right on the top.
@nahaha4565 if you know of videos show a mechanic saying that please post it. I saw a video explaining why to run thinner oil and it made perfect sense. They showed a 6.7 lifer next to a 6.0 powsroke lifer, both looked very similar until he turned them around and showed you the hole used to pump them up, the cummins was half the size of the other, with the thicker oil they're collapsing because they aren't filling up fast enough.
Hot shot secrets oil changes at 5000 miles fuel at 10k treat the truck well and it will last you a long time. Also watch your right foot and change the oil in your axles and transmission. Maintenance goes a long way not just in Cummins all diesel’s and gas engine.
I'd definitely do some research online about your specific truck and see what people are recommending, I have seen everything from ATF to two-stroke oil and then Specifically made diesel additives. All of these in theory are supposed to provide extra lubrication to the fuel system components, Many are for and many against. Personally, I recommend doing something which is why I brought it up but will leave it up to everyone to make the decision as to which route! thanks for the comment
Former diesel mechanic here BEWARE of putting trans fluid into your tank. Used to work great back in the day, but modern trans fluid has more abrasive materials in them like teflon that will destroy a high pressure fuel system. Edit: Another thing to keep in mind, ATF typically has red dye. If DOT pulls you over for some reason and looks in your tank... and sees red, they will assume you are running farm fuel and can decom the truck. This can leave you stranded until you cough up some cash or prove your case.
Don’t add ATF to your 4th gen. Power Service by Diesel Kleen, recommended by Cummins, uses 12oz per tank. I’ve used Hotshot but feel like the lubricating factor is lost with dilution. 2oz vs 12 in 40 gal. Definitely use a lubricant for longevity. Another benefit to additives is the increase in cetane, benefits combustion. Archoil AR6400-D is a quality product to use at least one a year to keep the emissions system functioning well. Use quality fuel filters, they are expensive but motors are way more. On time quality maintenance is a must for longevity. I’ve got a 2014 Cummins. If you want to improve drivability without messing with excessive fueling, a Banks Pedal Monster will change your world. Removing the built in lag will make you feel like you are driving a race car. Being able to use the existing power when you want it is amazing.
@@jl6.790 If my truck is running (05 3rd Gen) without the key in it. As soon as You hit the brake it will shut down.I also run i qt. of 2 stroke oil per every 50 Gals. of fuel sense it was new with no issues. Only major upgrade is a stage 3 Transmission.👍
1. Never lift your truck for so many reasons I can’t list them all. 2. Don’t idle your truck. 3. It’s for work towing and hauling if you never use the truck for that it’s worthless. Never have your tires wider than the truck and use mud flaps.
I also will pour 2 stroke oil into my tank! Pre mix oil! Pour a whole quart bottle of that stuff into a full tank! And not Them little 1 oz pre Mix oil bottle ain't enough! You'd need 12 of those little 1oz bottles. It works really really good! Cleans and lubricates extremely well! ATF, it's basically 5wt hydrolic oil with lots of detergents and cleaners. ATF cleans really really well! It'll clean and lube your injectors, and injection pump and keep it happy! ATF, 2 stroke oil, diesel service (white bottle) the red bottle 922 is for if you've jelled! Hot shots secret Lucas. I typically will dump at least full qt of ATF or 2 stroke oil into My tank every time I fill up with a half bottle or so of the white bottle Diesel Service every time I fill up. 2-3 quarts of atf in a full tank isn't gunna hurt anything! A diesel is an oil burner! The older first and secound gen 12 valves and 24 valves with mechanical Injectors you can run waste oil/ waste veggie oil, bio diesel or 'black diesel'. Diluted down with diesel to thin it of course. They are oil burners! And they run really really well on it to! I've seen people drain the oil out of their 12v first/ second gen into a CLEAN pan and then pour it directly into the fuel tank and then top the fuel tank off and fill it up! It works very very well! GET A FASS!!! The stock OE fuel filtration is inferior! Even on brand new trucks, the stock oe fuel filter isn't doing enough and filtering down fine enough. A fass will filter down to 1-2 micron! I like to run the big larger cap CAT filters. They're twice the size of the standard fass filters and water fuel separator. A fass fuel system is cheap insurance! On a common rail a single injector is like $800! Times that by 6 or 8 for a durajunk and a fass fuel system that costed $800 will more than pay for itself!! It's cheap insurance and price of mind known you're always have fresh filtered fuel at the injection pump inlet. On vp44 trucks this is imperative! A fass fuel system It's a must have! The vp44 relay on cool clean fuel to cool it and lubricate it. The stock oe lift pumps can't supply the required volume of fuel that the vp44 needs to keep it cool and when they over heat it cooks the vp44 and boom! On newer trucks with a cp3 or cp4 they have a hard time sucking the fuel from the tank up to the motor. Thats a long distance to have to 'pull' the fuel up to. Having a fass fuel lift pump will ensure that the cp3 or cp4 dosent have to work hard to pull the fuel up to itself! I like the fass. Air dog is basically the same thing. Few small differences. The fass systems you can get option add on probe heaters that thread into the manifold on the fass block. And it'll heat fuel as it flows thru and will prevent your filters and water separator from icing up and fuel from gelling in the line on the way up to the injection pump.
@jl6.790 look up an episode of "the diesel podcast" with a title of something like home remedies for fuel additives or or old school diesel fuel additives, something like that. Anyway he has a guy from hot shots secret on and he goes into very deep detail on just how ineffective and expensive things like 2 stroke oil and atf are vs a "proper" formulated fuel additive is. There's a couple of those types of episodes on the diesel podcast and are definitely worth a listen.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The turbo cooldown is also ignored with car owners, giving all turbo vehicles a bad rep when it user error. But it is tough to sit in running truck when I need to pee.
It’s definitely tough to wait sometimes! But your right, a lot of the bad rep comes from user error and not the vehicle itself and that goes for most things
@@jl6.790do you recommend the turbo cooldown all the time? Or just when you drive the piss out of your truck? Most of the time I drive my truck very very gently. Staying in the slow lane shifting around 1800 rpm (g56) and never really pounding the throttle. What scenario would you recommend the turbo cooldown?
@@aiwohicdl I normally do it anytime I have been on the highway or towing anything, if I'm just into town and back I normally don't worry about it
I've had DODGE/RAM pickups since 1991, and I ONLY use HIGH QUALITY Engine oils{AMSOIL 100 % Synthetic} I also only use high quality oil filters and duel filters. My drain intervals mare usually 20- 25 K. I do OIL ANALY SIS at least once every 50 K miles, and the reports ALWAYS come back with EXCELLANT results!, and I NEVER add ATF or 2-stroke oil in the fuel, but I do believe in a HIGH QUALITY DIESEL FUEL Additive!
2-5 minutes cool down is a must oil in turbo will cake from heat if your idling around that's one thing but pulling then shut it off hot it will destroy it
Absolutely! Thanks for the comment!
As far as short trips and leave the truck running i go a step futher and also put it in high idle.
Not a bad idea at all!
You are the best on this I do everything you say and I have 675000 thousand miles on my 2003. I leave home in the morning and never cut it off in the day and time I knock out a thousand miles a day. 👍
Awesome glad to hear! hopefully I have the same luck as you and get over 600,000 miles as well! thanks for the comment
I 'am watching your video '' so far you have been spot-on '' until Now ''' you say A.T.F wont Hurt anything ''' I'm a 40 year retired trucker ''' your 'almost' right '' the truth is it wont hurt the motor at all' infact the motor loves it ' But it 'Deuterates the inside of the Rubber Fuel Lines and the inside Collapses ' then your pump ''Looses'' Fuel & Pressure '''' Bad Deal '' and it may very well burn the pump up too ''''' but so far you have been spot-on ''' james.
I would recommend as a additive for lubrication '' Cheapest you can find '2' cycle oil mix '''''' I've seen it selling in 5 gallon bucket's at farm / ranch supply.... If your driving a newer one with all that pollution devices under it.... evenly it might stop--up one of those devices under it' on the Exhaust.
The last set of injectors I bought for my 24v Cummins was $599 for DD Stage III injectors. Still running them 140k miles later.
I drove turbocharged diesel tractors in the 70s, and we always had to let them idle for at least 5 minutes, before we shut it down.
Don't care what manufacturer recommend oil change no more than 5000 miles between changes.
yep '' I agree '''''' at 5000 miles it real Gritty to the feel' its DIRTY '' could you Imagine what it would feel like at 9000 / 10.000 miles.
Some people change filters out at 5k and let the oil run longer
Been in PM fleet management business for over 20 yrs and work all brands light medium and heavy duty gas and diesel and follow the book is fine we got customers with 500k no major issues and theres a few that have some issues but predominantly make it till time that they like to change them out. Got FL with the cummins and theres detroits and they go every 5k but they are an insulation company they have PTOs that run full time 8-10hrs a day so it equivalates out to 15-20k driven miles
Changing early wont hurt anything by any means but it is a waste 10-15k is fine on a 12+ qt engine
I only run mine 5 to 6k. 10 to 15 especially if you have a EGR will trash on that motor.
GREAT CONTENT KEEP THE CUMMINS VIDEOS COMING
Thanks for the support!
What lift and size tire is on that truck in the beginning. Looks good!
Thanks! The wide ones are 35x12.5r20s on 20x12 -44 wheels. The other ones are 37x12.5r18s on 18x9 -18 wheels
2001, 2008, 2011, and 2021. They have all been “Bulletproof” for me. The only one not built so far is the 2021. Waiting for the warranty to be up.
PD Diesel mentioned in one of videos that running 10w30 on the fifth gen 6.7L Cummins is the way to go. I agree with him after switching from 5w40 for 85k miles to the 10w30. The hydraulic lifters like the thinner oil
Ill have to take a look for the video, Thanks for the insight, Always like to see peoples take on things!
I run power service fuel additive in my 5th gen. As far as I found, its the only one that you'll find the cummins logo on
Good to know! ill have to keep an eye out for it and give it a go!
@jl6.790 Canadian tire is the only place I've found that carries it
I will say that out of the big 3, I currently own a 20 3500 Cummins this is my 5th Cummins "different gens", I own a 23 f350 and used to own a 22 GMC 3500, Ive deleted every truck, the ram deleted stock can handle more abuse then the others
I have a 2017 Ram 3500 6.7 diesel. P2609 code my heater grid. Apparently there is a nut that gets cooked and can fall off and go into the engine. I am about to get an upgrade. I can get a stock set up or I was thinking about the Banks Ram which would give it more air flow. Will I need to modify anything else if I go that way or am I better off staying with the stock option?
I installed a Banks Ram in my 2007 6.7 cummins last year. It came with everything I needed and more. No mods and the Banks video was very detailed and easy to follow. I am an old school back yard mechanic with no formal training btw. I am totall happy with it and have driven it across country twice this year pulling a 10,000 lb camper.
I have always wondered if all those grid heater bolts melted off by cycling the key a lot of times after a filter change . 🤔🤔i have never personally owned a newer truck but my work places have always gave me brand spanking new dodge work rigs and they have a lot of problems... So many pros and cons it's hard to hop out of a 2023 and into a 2006 and sometimes it's hard to get out of a 2006 into a 2023 ill just keep working them and Build them better when they break 💪 it's a real nightmare when you are bound to the dot rules especially. Most of the dot rules basically destroy all these good trucks
I agree completey with any sort of regulating body overseeing the use of diesels and their strict emissions requirements its a huge nightmare. Id love to eventually get a pre-emissions truck if I could find the right one. As for the comment about the grid heater the grid heater should only cycle if the outside temp is below 65 degrees F I believe or 18 C it shouldn't be kicking in, so as long as you're working inside and cycling it when its not that cold you shouldn't have that issue, Not anymore then the painful grid heater bolts already cause anyway
@@jl6.790 nice man 👍thanks for great video and conversation .
you dont need to cycle the lift pumps on newer 5th gens man, they dont back drain when you shut the truck off, they only release pressure. you do need to cycle when changing fuel filters though. you would be surprised how quickly EGT's go down. I run the Banks iDash and can see all 3 EGT sensors. Even pulling a 10k toy hauler above 6k ft elevation, the EGT's rarely get over 900deg. Coming off the highway to the house pulling the toy hauler, my EGTs can go from 800-900deg down to under 600deg in less than 1mi. I do idle while re-fueling on long trips (towing or not), but short trips running around town and re-fueling on the way home, I will shut the truck off...no issues...
Love the eye level meat hooks.
You do want to taken seriously, right?
I agree with you. Spot on about idling and turbos.
yea probably could have been alittle safer with that lol, The first and only day in awhile nothing has been on them so I normally leave them up. Thankd for the comment!
tip ''' if running extra lubricants' in the fuel' and towing ' watch your 'pyrometer ' ' ' Anything over 1200F will do Damage '' keep it under 1200'F.
Its a Ram not a Cummins. Big thing with these trucks are your lifters, you can't push your oil change intervals. If you want it to last change your oil every 8000 kms or 5000 miles. As for priming, cycling it more than once before start up does nothing, cycle the pump half dozen times for a filter change sure. But your system isn't going to develop air in the system overnight. Hit the button and let it do its cycle
Correct its a Ram truck but for every point made in the video its about Cummins engines and not the rams itself because these points dont pertain to 3/4 and 1 ton ram trucks with the Hemi engine. As for the priming as I mentioned in the video I only do it more then once when I worked on it like changing the filters. But every time I get in it I press the button to the Run position and let the pump run once then start it as you said. Thanks for the comment!
Well said. Facts 👍🏻
Number one mistake, big lift kit, big tires and the tires sticking out beyond the sides of the vehicle really stupid
Appreciate the input lol
Awesome video, thanks for the info.
I do a 200 to 1 mix of 2 cycle oil in all of my diesel fuel..there is no such a thing as high quality diesel fuel ,, its all swill at best.
If i got a dodge 3500 dualy chassie, w/no engine in it... some of those older semi truck engines are cheap like the 10L &14L V8's or I6's. costs less then the speeder rice burner tax put over everything else... enter list of broken things because it is 3000 pounds not 700lb, just for 260HP... everything else is a manufactured failure that needs to be fully rebuilt every 3 hours bad as those flying bug bike engines.
That would be an interesting project! id love to see it documented if you were ever to make it happen
ATF in fuel is an old myth that won't die, it's ok in older trucks but will damage emissions systems in late model trucks, All makes!
From what ive seen best thing you can do it run the 15w-40 they used to run in the previous engines. I seen they had to run thinner oil in the new ones to beat emissions. And delete them obviously. Fuck the epa.
DO NOT RUN!!!!! 15/40 in 19+ ram cummins trucks. You will shit out the lifters. 5/40 or 10/30. I a million % agree with all the people saying 15/40 is the diesel oil yadayada but in these new ones just look at what the oil cap says right on the top.
@@allencanard979 the lifters shitting the bed is inevitable and thicker oil will absolutely help protect them. The new roller design is junk.
@nahaha4565 if you know of videos show a mechanic saying that please post it. I saw a video explaining why to run thinner oil and it made perfect sense. They showed a 6.7 lifer next to a 6.0 powsroke lifer, both looked very similar until he turned them around and showed you the hole used to pump them up, the cummins was half the size of the other, with the thicker oil they're collapsing because they aren't filling up fast enough.
Hot shot secrets oil changes at 5000 miles fuel at 10k treat the truck well and it will last you a long time. Also watch your right foot and change the oil in your axles and transmission. Maintenance goes a long way not just in Cummins all diesel’s and gas engine.
100% agree. Maintenance is the biggest thing for reliability as you said for any engine
Adding ATF into the tank? I’ve never heard of that. I just bought a 4th gen 3500 with 140K on it and I want to make sure it lasts
I'd definitely do some research online about your specific truck and see what people are recommending, I have seen everything from ATF to two-stroke oil and then Specifically made diesel additives. All of these in theory are supposed to provide extra lubrication to the fuel system components, Many are for and many against. Personally, I recommend doing something which is why I brought it up but will leave it up to everyone to make the decision as to which route! thanks for the comment
Former diesel mechanic here
BEWARE of putting trans fluid into your tank. Used to work great back in the day, but modern trans fluid has more abrasive materials in them like teflon that will destroy a high pressure fuel system.
Edit: Another thing to keep in mind, ATF typically has red dye. If DOT pulls you over for some reason and looks in your tank... and sees red, they will assume you are running farm fuel and can decom the truck. This can leave you stranded until you cough up some cash or prove your case.
Good to know! Thanks!
Don’t add ATF to your 4th gen. Power Service by Diesel Kleen, recommended by Cummins, uses 12oz per tank. I’ve used Hotshot but feel like the lubricating factor is lost with dilution. 2oz vs 12 in 40 gal. Definitely use a lubricant for longevity. Another benefit to additives is the increase in cetane, benefits combustion. Archoil AR6400-D is a quality product to use at least one a year to keep the emissions system functioning well. Use quality fuel filters, they are expensive but motors are way more. On time quality maintenance is a must for longevity. I’ve got a 2014 Cummins. If you want to improve drivability without messing with excessive fueling, a Banks Pedal Monster will change your world. Removing the built in lag will make you feel like you are driving a race car. Being able to use the existing power when you want it is amazing.
That's right... not meant to be burned internally @@marcochavanne
leaving a truck running can get it stolen quick.. :)
Definitely possible, I take the key with me and lock it, stays running but still a risk no doubt
@@jl6.790 If my truck is running (05 3rd Gen) without the key in it. As soon as You hit the brake it will shut down.I also run i qt. of 2 stroke oil per every 50 Gals. of fuel sense it was new with no issues. Only major upgrade is a stage 3 Transmission.👍
Great messages to the ones with more money than sense.
First one buying it
1. Never lift your truck for so many reasons I can’t list them all. 2. Don’t idle your truck. 3. It’s for work towing and hauling if you never use the truck for that it’s worthless. Never have your tires wider than the truck and use mud flaps.
Things Cummins owners should know, BUY A DURAMAX 😅😅😅😅
Ive personally never had one, But id be entirely open to getting one some day!
We didn't have very good luck at all with our lly. Stock for stock, the dodges just felt like they pulled better and had way less issues
The first mistake was buying a ram
Have had 6.7 and 5.9 12 vavle
New is nothing but garbage
I also will pour 2 stroke oil into my tank! Pre mix oil! Pour a whole quart bottle of that stuff into a full tank! And not Them little 1 oz pre Mix oil bottle ain't enough! You'd need 12 of those little 1oz bottles. It works really really good! Cleans and lubricates extremely well!
ATF, it's basically 5wt hydrolic oil with lots of detergents and cleaners. ATF cleans really really well! It'll clean and lube your injectors, and injection pump and keep it happy!
ATF, 2 stroke oil, diesel service (white bottle) the red bottle 922 is for if you've jelled!
Hot shots secret Lucas. I typically will dump at least full qt of ATF or 2 stroke oil into
My tank every time I fill up with a half bottle or so of the white bottle Diesel Service every time I fill up. 2-3 quarts of atf in a full tank isn't gunna hurt anything! A diesel is an oil burner! The older first and secound gen 12 valves and 24 valves with mechanical
Injectors you can run waste oil/ waste veggie oil, bio diesel or 'black diesel'. Diluted down with diesel to thin it of course. They are oil burners! And they run really really well on it to! I've seen people drain the oil out of their 12v first/ second gen into a CLEAN pan and then pour it directly into the fuel tank and then top the fuel tank off and fill it up! It works very very well!
GET A FASS!!! The stock OE fuel filtration is inferior! Even on brand new trucks, the stock oe fuel filter isn't doing enough and filtering down fine enough. A fass will filter down to 1-2 micron! I like to run the big larger cap CAT filters. They're twice the size of the standard fass filters and water fuel separator. A fass fuel system is cheap insurance! On a common rail a single injector is like $800! Times that by 6 or 8 for a durajunk and a fass fuel system that costed $800 will more than pay for itself!! It's cheap insurance and price of mind known you're always have fresh filtered fuel at the injection pump inlet. On vp44 trucks this is imperative! A fass fuel system It's a must have! The vp44 relay on cool clean fuel to cool it and lubricate it. The stock oe lift pumps can't supply the required volume of fuel that the vp44 needs to keep it cool and when they over heat it cooks the vp44 and boom! On newer trucks with a cp3 or cp4 they have a hard time sucking the fuel from the tank up to the motor. Thats a long distance to have to 'pull' the fuel up to. Having a fass fuel lift pump will ensure that the cp3 or cp4 dosent have to work hard to pull the fuel up to itself!
I like the fass. Air dog is basically the same thing. Few small differences. The fass systems you can get option add on probe heaters that thread into the manifold on the fass block. And it'll heat fuel as it flows thru and will prevent your filters and water separator from icing up and fuel from gelling in the line on the way up to the injection pump.
Thanks for all the info! lots of knowledge there I like it!
@jl6.790 look up an episode of "the diesel podcast" with a title of something like home remedies for fuel additives or or old school diesel fuel additives, something like that. Anyway he has a guy from hot shots secret on and he goes into very deep detail on just how ineffective and expensive things like 2 stroke oil and atf are vs a "proper" formulated fuel additive is. There's a couple of those types of episodes on the diesel podcast and are definitely worth a listen.