Kawasaki Ninja GPZ900R Rebuild EP5 - Starter Clutch Removal and Rebuild
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- Опубліковано 22 гру 2020
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It seems wrong to strip the Kawasaki GPZ900R engine down this far and not refurb its starter clutch.
The GPZ900R Starter Clutch has been know to give up and the thought of rebuilding the engine without first dismantling it and replacing the parts that frequently fail doesn't sit well.
They can fail in other ways but by replacing the starter clutch springs and rollers eliminates one of the most common part failures.
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#kawasaki #kawasakininja #gpz900r #starterclutch #enginerebuild - Авто та транспорт
Achiles heels of the beast! Great to see the internals
Absolutely fantastic vid. Clear and concise with very useful tips. Already shared and subscribed. Keep up the good work gents.
Thanks David. Much appreciated
Really good instruction video. Interesting to follow your rebuild, thumbs up!
I hope that I never have to do this job on my 900R but if I do this will be a lifesaver!
Thanks for this series, I'm learning a lot.
Happy Christmas!
Thanks Pat. I would say it's more time consuming than complicated so just take it slow and follow the manuals and you'll be fine.
When we decided to film our projects we wanted to make something snappy but informative so am so please you think it could be useful. We're really hoping the channel takes off and we can do more so please share with anyone you think may enjoy it. Have a lovely Christmas.
Excellent, very informative and educational
Thank you TT
Excellent, very informative indeed
Glad it was helpful!
Lovely video! Thank you
Some people seem to replacing the clutch with a z1000(i think). Would that a complete switch + the starter clutch gear?
Thanks for the good feedback.
Yes some do replace the unit with one from a ZZR1100 (might be a common unit in many models). Not sure if it's just a case of swapping the clutch unit, you might other components as well.
We wanted to keep the bike as standard as possible so stuck with the original.
Oh ! Bugger !! Now I've no excuse, I suppose I'll have to stop procrastinating and get on with rebuilding my 900R , where did you manage to get the rebuild kit from , last time I looked they were no longer available . cracking series looking forward to seeing more
I actually got the rebuild kit from eBay. Just rollers, springs and spring caps.
Always best to rebuild before they continuously fail to grab. If it's already slipping and clattering pay lots off attention to all of the components not just the rollers etc.
Great and helpfull video!
Maybe you could help me with the following:
After replacing the starter clutch parts like you, I dont get the starter cog into place ( tried it counterclockwise). Is there a „trick“? And: is it normal, that the housing is bended up a little bit in the area of the 3 zylinders?
Thanks a lot, Markus
It's a case of perseverance and making sure the rollers are recessed properly. Nothing should be bent though. Best of luck Markus
Thanks a lot!
Guess what, they had sold me the wrong parts! Looked similar but the 3 zylinders were a little bit too long. For this reason they bent the casing and the zylinders could‘t move. After receiving the right Parts everything worked out like you described it in the video :-)
Thanks again and best regards, Markus
Hi. Good video but you didn't show the alignment of the oil hole on the spline shaft to the center of the starter clutch. Perhaps you could add it as I think most people don't even realise that there is an alignment.
Hello Tony. I heard this theory before starting on the engine but don't recall it mentioned in the workshop manual.
In my opinion the hole in the shaft doesn't need to be aligned but always make your own call.
There is a turned cavity at the oil holes that will fill with oil and distributes the oil around and to the starter clutch.
Doesn't hurt to align the holes but I'm not convinced it's actually needed.
@@FixRideExplore Yes I agree it isn't written about but. If you look at the engine oil flow chart / diagram in the Kawasaki manual it clearly shows the oil flow from the pump along that shaft and coming out of the bearing. IMHO It was drilled there for a reason and if it's not lined up it won't flow to the centre of the bearing. Just as easy to fit it correctly so might as well.
@@tonymansell4691 Totally agree with the oil flow explanation. Maybe I didn't explain my observations very well.
The hole on the shaft fills the cavity between the shaft and the starter clutch. The cavity feeds the hole to the starter clutch. Very common arrangement with many applications.
As I said there's no harm in aligning the holes but personally I don't think it's needed.
We decided to film our projects and not make tutorials so always make you're own judgement call.
@@FixRideExplore Hi. Yes I agree I can see that there is a slight recess around the oil hole which will allow oil to move around the shaft.
Where did you get the Rebuilding Kit??
I can't remember now. We sourced a lot of parts from a company that sold GPZ kit. I don't believe the company exists now. There were also kit available on eBay and other online places. It's a pretty basic and common part so should be easy to find with some googling.
you have only done a quick fix you should also change the gear drive as they get flat spots and this fix will not last!
Your comment can be valid but wasn't a concern in this example.
Starter clutch was working perfectly before. Changed rollers/springs as a caution and to demonstrate how the starter clutch works.
Inspected for flat spots and any other wear. All good.
I've found with these starter clutches it's the initial engagement that causes them to start slipping. This usually is the springs reduced pressure, causing slip, then a polishing of the surfaces. This then exaggerates the wear further widening the tolerances to the point it then binds (rollers don't roll) creating flat spots.
Fortunately it was all in superb condition.