Can't Get Body Work Straight? - Try Feather Fill Polyester Primer
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- Опубліковано 2 вер 2021
- Find out how polyester primer surfacers like Feather Fill can save the day and help you get your body work straight every time. Tools and Materials listed below.
Polyester Primer Surfacer: Evercoat 713 Gray Feather Fill G2 Primer Surfacer
Long Block: www.autobodytoolmart.com/prod...
Medium Block: www.autobodytoolmart.com/prod...
Sand Paper: 80 grit on long board / 120 grit on shorter board
Glazing Putty: Bondo - Glazing and Spot Putty
Masking Tape: 3M Auto Body Refinishing Tape
/ lakesideautobody - Авто та транспорт
Master of your trade, you make it look so easy. I am trying and slowly getting better. Love to watch yalls videos as I learn more and more.
Thanks Ron - feel free to ask any ?s no matter the video or topic - I answer 1-2 times a day :)
Man, I have countless money invested in all kinds of blocks/boards through my 30 years plus of BW and yeah..I seem to ALWAYS come back to those Hutchins wooden longboards and hand blocks you are using for user friendly COMFORT and great results. Good video again. 👍
Thanks for the support Jim - can beat the old long board from Hutchins. Have a good weekend :)
Great video 👍
Yeah, I’m loving that feather fill. It sure saves a lot of time. Good info, Jerry!👍
Thanks 👍 have a good labor day w.e.
That's a world of difference!
Have a great labor day weekend, Jerry.
You have a good labor day to Jim :)
Thanks for sharing, Jerry.
Have a nice Labor day weekend!
Thanks, you too my friend :)
Amen
Nice video as always Jerry. Looks amazing.
Thanks PSG - have a good week :)
Great sanding demo, Jerry. Love the new logo, would look awesome on some t-shirts!!
Thanks Erich - that's where it's from - working on hats, shirts, stickers, mixing boards, etc. Glad you like the video and always good to hear from you my friend :)
Thank you. I’ll click the video link and learn.
Just in time for my upcoming project; thanks for the video,PJP
You're welcome - glad it was on time :)
For anyone in the UK & Ireland we'd call this Filler Primer.
Jerry - your videos are genuinely the best bodywork resource on the internet.
I appreciate the support AJ - I'll have to visit the UK one day - my grand parents were from Belgium and came over after WWII - opened a bar in Detroit. Must have been good times back then - 40's-60's
I look at photos and estimates all day from body shops for an insurance company. It’s nice to get a shop’s perspective every once in a while to recalibrate.
Prices keep going up and up :)
I'm restoring a 1971 HQ Holden Monaro (Australian muscle car). Currently at smoothing stage and your video's have been a godsend. Thank you, subscribed
Thanks for the sub FMC - glad you liked it and good luck on your project - super cool looking car btw - just looked it up - very cool 👍
Always a pleasure to watch a master tradey at work.
I appreciate the support Michael - Happy New Year 🎉
@@LakesideAutobody As a late starter in the panel repair and paint industry your videos have been both informative and enjoyable to watch. A happy new year to you too.
Thanks! Always use your videos as a reference when I'm looking at a panel and wondering "what should I be doing next??" :)
That's great to hear - I appreciate your support. Hope I can continue to help :)
👍🏻Thanks for the video! I like that stuff, I’ve been using EastWood products and been happy with them.
You're welcome Michael - you're right - this stuff can really help at times :)
Just got the Eastwood 2k Aerospray polyester primer today and some self etch primer got at Auto Value store today guy that works there didn't say nothing about having polyester primer though they have Nason products too I got a Goodyear air hose there last year too today sprayed expanding foam spray into these holes had on car but still will have to wait to the polyester primer come to use it over where put the foam I didn't put the straw on right when sprayed the foam but looked on how to do it on can on UA-cam last time I used spray foam was almost two years ago. I will applying the polyester primer after it comes.
Another great video Jerry and the new logo looks great!
Thanks UPK - I ordered one of your hats but hit the order button 3 times 'cause I didn't think it was registering or going through. I only need one - hope the order got to your website - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody hey Jerry I didn’t see the email of your purchase but I’ll check it to make sure it went through…I appreciate you Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody the order didn’t go through
@@UndergroundPaintKing I'll try it again tomorrow :)
Good video thank you for sharing
You're welcome Bill :)
Body work is an art.
Love your Mustang!
Like the old school Nitrostan primer putty. I really prefer using the polyester glazing putty Dries faster and does not shrink as much. The best one is the Pro glaze from USC or some of he Upol ones. Great video of Standard body work. How its done.
Good tips my friend :)
As always very informative Jerry do you think you could make a video one day on how to deal with ripples ? that's something I need to work on keep up the great work you do
That's a good suggestion. I'll put that on the list. For now though, try using the longest board you have with a firm backing pad - it will tell the truth every time.
Great video thanks🤠👍
You're welcome :)
Your videos have been amazing along the path and the detail you give is great. I’m about to try out some USC Eliminator polyester primer on a test hood to straighten it out for different Pearl concentrations over summit white to see what the customer wants on a ‘56 fairlane crown Victoria
I think you'll really like this stuff. Let me know what you really think about it after using it. Thanks the for the kind words too Tyler :)
@@LakesideAutobody wow, I’m already done blocking out my first 3 wet coats and I must say I’m very impressed. Found a couple spots I can hit with icing, and another 3 wet coats should get it ready for 2k primer without a problem!
@@tylerfraker7716 Glad you like it. For me at a younger age, it was a life saver. When I couldn't get something straight, I would bury it with feather fill, go to lunch, come back and block sand. Things would be better. Sounds like a hack but... that's what helped me get to where I am now. Still a challenge but I've got a few more tricks now :)
That glazing puddy, I only use one with a hardner in it like Dolphin or Icing Lite.
That stuff is real good too. If you use the old style, it's good to keep it real thin - just for very small low spots or imperfections :)
That's gonna be a sweet box! 😋
Been working on it for long enough... Have a good labor day weekend and hope everything goes well for you this year Snake Doc :)
@@LakesideAutobody you too bud!
How simple this gentleman explains it . Man the young guys too much information those 2 block and a Sponge from the house you can do any car lol I make my own blocks good job
Thanks Hobby A. Have a great weekend :)
very nice as usual. Can you please do a video on how to spray Feather Fill the right way?
Absolutely. That seems to be debated a lot online. Thanks for the suggestion Borna :)
I had a protec gun with a 3.0 tip it would lay down slick sand like crazy
Wow 3.0 tip - that's what you need too :)
I thought I was super cool 16 years ago and piled this stuff on then piled some lacquer, then piled the base coat 🧥 plus clear yikes, I’m sanding it now and that paint is soooo thick. Painting the Monte soon 🔜
Good to hear you're painting it soon - let me know how it turns out Gmguy.
Great info Thanks for sharing. I need to start over learning all the paper sizes & when to use them. I worked at a few places they were all different it was confusing.
I'm going to do a video on that very soon :)
Different body shops have their own preferences about which grades of sandpaper they like to use so eventually you will develop your own style of repair.
Not bad till you pulled out the spot putty! I never liked the feather fill either. Mixed it on a hot day, got a phone call and by the time I went to spray it, it had started gelling in the gun. What a mess.
Yes.... you don't want that stuff sitting in your gun - tough to clean up. Old fashioned putty is not bad if you use it the way it was intended - very lightly.
Jerry, how about a video on dealing with colder conditions? Thanks.
Excellent idea... do you mean for say, filler hardening, primer, paint, etc ?
I figured since you’re in Michigan you have a few tips 😀
Looks good Bud!! What size tip ya need in your gun!! And do you thin that stuff and with what if you do!!☺
I was using a 1.8mm tip and thinned it with lacquer thinner - no worries at all using lacquer thinner.
805ROADKING- You can also use Acetone to thin most ANY Polyester Primer. Sometimes it's a little cheaper than even economy thinners but either way...And DON'T forget to stir the hell out of the poly primer when you open it, and IF possible? Even take it to a paint store or HD and put it on the paint shaker for awhile providing you don't have one. Poly primers settle probably the most out of most ANY primers and paints I have come across in my 40 plus years of seeing it used, and using it personally in over my 30 years with auto restoration. Also? The actual "Feather Fill" product is NOT warm temp/hot weather friendly. IF you have to use in such, and need to prime alot? Be sure you use quart at a time and within 20-30 minutes QUICKLY (IF NOT considerably sooner) and then CLEAN YOUR GUN before mixing more as it WILL/CAN harden right there in your primer gun and ruin it. These days considering Polyester Primers myself? I prefer to sway guys away from the Feather Fill with the just the tube of liquid hardener, and highly recommend "Evercoat's SUPER BUILD high building Polyester Primer" as it is a 4 to 1 mix ratio, (like standard POLYURETHANE high build primers) as it has a 1 to 2 hour pot life, you can also mix way smaller (than a pint) amounts for spot priming and KNOW your primer WILL cure successful (and NOT have to worry about it hardening in your gun either, OR IF you add just a drop of hardener TOO much!) And yeah, SUPER BUILD is way more warm weather AND USER FRIENDLY and? I think it sands way easier than Feather Fill, and it's only like 10 dollars more a gallon, granted you gotta buy the quart of liquid hardener. LOTTA experience with these products, Lol. BEST of luck!
@@jamescon55 Thanks for the input Jim - good info :)
Nice 👍
Thanks ✌
I remember when father fill came out. It was the answer to making a show car.
It really did help me out back in the 80's 'cause my filler work was subpar for sure. It allowed me to make it by though and survive! Eventually I used less and less to the point of not needing it that often anymore. It's good to know it's there though - just in case :)
Years ago it was called Lesanol spray filler
As usual your vids are full of useful pointers for those of us whose bodywork is in need of help
So glad you can use them - never can have enough weapons when it comes to getting panels straight :)
Feather fill is helpful but using long boards and the correct grit paper are the real keys to getting long "flat" panels straight. 25 years in the trade
You're right about that :)
Have you ever done a different types of fillers video ? Years ago I used bondo brand but know I like evercoat lite weight and evercoat rage what do you think ? Thanks and great video .
You're fine with the Evercoat light weight filler - I've used that before and it works just fine - not too pricey either. I spend around $20 on a gallon of filler - 'least I try to keep it in that range. Good idea for a video - thanks - needs to be done :)
So you have helped me get motivated to do the repairs on my wheelwells. I knew going into this that im green at all this so i expected it not being perfect. Ive def learned alot w the hands on. My problems were due to not having much time and needing my truck and also rain. My question is i applied a high build primer (thats where both sides are at currently) and i have pinholes in some areas and couple spots that should have had more filler. Am i able to put spot putty or filler over the primer coat or do i have to approach it differently? I appreciate all your time and videos, from a distance it looks great (without paint) but hoping to improve these spots before paint. And sorry one last question, how long do i have before i have to seal the primer? Thanks again
Yes you can put spot putty or filler over the primer. You can put it on first - then block sand or block sand then fill in any low areas and pits - what ever you prefer. You can seal the primer after it dries - basically that means that if you can sand the primer then you can seal it. To be safe though follow the back of the can or the technical data sheet on the product you are using. Feel free to ask any other ?s you have and have a good week end :)
@@LakesideAutobody Appreciating all of your help so so much, you have no idea. I left a question on your mixing ratios also, i got confused on the hardner part. You have a great weekend as well Sir, you have become a huge help and asset to me.
@@brianb5779 Take a quick look at this video - if you have any more ?s just ask - Jerry
ua-cam.com/video/cua8Y7hXzak/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Got it,,, finally...always was so confusing till both your videos, so happy now. Ill be sharing this w others for sure
I first used a 'sprayable bondo' on a vehicle approx 35 years ago. The product was called 'Sandy' made by Clausen.
Made fine tuning a larger panel a lot easier than skim coating the whole area.
Interesting - thanks for that information Russ. Have a good week :)
I used a sprayable Bondo called Upol. Used it to fix hail damage on a Mustang roof. It was a Godsend.
If you have pin holes after you spray the featherfill ,,, take a small brush and go into the cup you mixed in ,before it jells too much , and glob some into the holes ,,work it in there,, there will be a bump , knock that off with a course grit first ,, then sand the rest of the panel,,, it wont shrink like that spot putty,, works for me ,90% of the time , youll know after you sand!
Good tip Von - I appreciate the support :)
The feather fill looks like a bugger to sand. Sounded like ur paper was cutting good though. Im a big fan of the red glazing putty. Saves alot of time.
Not even.
now i know what my body shop guy was missing
Hey what size nozzle did you use on your spray gun in order to shoot that Evercoat G2 Primer Surfacer? How much lacquer thinner did you use in order to thin it out before shooting? Thanks for any tips!
1.8mm - you can thin feather fill w/ acetone or lacquer thinner. We actually used thinner all the time at a shop I worked at - works just fine. Try a 1.8mm tip w/ a gravity fed gun :)
Question... Since you use 1K spot putty and lacquer primer what do you use to clean the panel in between blocking, spraying coats of primer and then before top coating with base/clear or single stage? Acetone would wipe those 1K materials away. I'd think maybe first using glass cleaner like sprayway and then just some alcohol would be fine. I'm not certain if wax and grease remover would react with the lacquer primer or not - I'd have to test a small area. BTW I love featherfill too I've used it on restoration work and it's a lifesaver. Thanks...
I use Auto Body Master wax and grease remover. I keep the wax and grease remover in an empty windex spray bottle and mist the rag with it - basically to pick up dust and clean it better than the air nozzle. It doesn't affect the lacquer primer. I think you're right with the acetone - that would probably "melt" it.
why are you cleaning with acetone ? I have never heard of anyone do that.
Hey can I apply my paint right over the Evercoat Superbuild primer surfacer that I am using if I prep it correctly first? When I am ready to paint I will be spraying base coat/ clear coat. I was going to final sand the Evercoat Superbuild primer surfacer with 400 grit right before paint...but not until after I have primed and blocked it a few times with 220 grit.
Yes you can paint over Evercoat SB primer surfacer. See info under description: evercoat.com/images/ePIM/original/TDS_100710_FEATHER-FILL-G2-3.2021-US-ENG.pdf
The real lesson here is, learn how to do a proper repair with your filler or you'll be stuck covering up your mistakes with more product$, like this fella'.
ua-cam.com/play/PLOP9eoG14-I_dTwNiWP5XJCitguFJzZEZ.html
@@LakesideAutobody I believe I could, at the very least, double your production and eliminate 1/3 of your waste in a one-day tutorial. You simply don't have 55 years of experience...yet.... Wait 'til you find out how brittle feather fill gets. I did with come-backs in the '70s when it first came out.
@@busmirror Feather fill doesn't crack - I've been using it since 1984 and never seen it crack once - never. Maybe you put it on too thick, didn't prepare the surface correct or thinned it with the wrong stuff.
The only problem I have with using "spot-putty" is that over time (a few months) it has a tendancy to shrink. What I have had the best luck with is Eastwood's High-Build Self-Etching Gray Primer (No, I get nothing out of this other than to share my experience). Builds fast, dries quickly, and doesn't shrink
Your correct. That red spot filler is garbage. It should never be used period.
Sir, I’ve watched a few different videos with rust repair process done with fiberglass and resin, also bondo glass and the mesh kit.
Which holds up better over a period of time? I understand nothing lasts forever.
My honest opinion on that is both of those methods will last the same amount of time. I'm sure folks will disagree with that but that's been my experience. Now... if you can seal the back side so no moisture ever penetrates the repair or allow for drainage so the panel stays dry on the inside - it can last many years. Sealed, it will last as long as a new panel.
@@LakesideAutobody
Thanks buddy.
Looks very good now but a lot of hours needed to get it correct from the first panel beating stage to being ready for top coat, those concave shapes on wheel archs etc can be very difficult to shape correctly, well done again.
Thanks Edmond, it does take some time and it can be frustrating around concave shapes on wheel wells for sure :)
I am working on a 1968 Shelby GT500KR and my brother prepped the car then sprayed primer on it. I am now doing more work to it. I wonder if I can sand the current primer with 180 then be able to spray the Evercoat G2 Primer surfacer over it so I can start blocking the car? I am not sure what kind or brand primer he used but I know he was going to spray a base coat/clear coat type of paint. I was trying to avoid a bad reaction between whatever primer he used and the Evercoat G2 primer that I plan on shooting.
Yes you can do that. If the primer is in good condition and he prepared the surface correctly, you'll be fine. Guys used to use feather fill in that exact way all the time where I worked and never had a problem. FF is essentially body filler that you can sprayed so in a sense, you are just putting 2K putty like Evercoat over primer which is normal.
@@LakesideAutobody Awesome and thanks! Yeah he definitely prepped the surface before he applied the primer. It sounds like it really builds up really good so enough material is there for blocking. I am not sure if I will use the Evercoat Superbuild or the Evercoat G2. But it sounds like I cannot go wrong with either of those. Thanks again!
@@VegasRT500 You're right - you can't go wrong with either. You're welcome :)
Hi Jerry, do you use just the feather fill or do you apply a regular 2K primer over the top of it before paint ? ….. Thank you
You can paint over feather fill but it's usually primed again with regular primer or like you said 2K then finish sanded and painted. Good ? Steve - have a good week my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry appreciate the advise
How hard is the Feather Fill to sand? Is it equivalent to good quality bondo?
It's harder than primer but not that bad really. It sands about the same as filler. Nothing miserable though for sure :)
Instead of feather fill I use Clausen’s (All-U Need) Polyester filler. Can be a lifesaver at times!
Thanks Okie-Tom - good info - have a good weekend :)
And another question is there a difference between the blue and red hardener ?
Good ? - there's no difference. Have a good weekend Ann :)
Red works best with fiberglass fillers. Easier to tell when you have it properly mixed.
Can we apply body filler over primer surfaces?
Yes. You can apply on both sanded or un-sanded primer but it's probably best to put it over sanded primer. Here's a good video on that topic - ua-cam.com/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/v-deo.html - Again filler can be put over epoxy, urethane, polyester or lacquer primer 😊
Hey Question Jerry can you put that G2 Featherfilled straight to metal . I am about to use it . I seen to guys do the opposite. I’m not gonna name no names . I would appreciate the Intel
Absolutely - don't listen to any other info. Remember that stuff came out in the early eighty's or maybe even earlier. There was no epoxy primer back then. We put it straight over metal, filler, paint, lacquer primer, old primer, etc and never had issues. Just make sure the surface is prepared correctly and your good to go :)
Thanks Jerry appreciate your wisdom keep up the great videos. I will be telling all the young cats about your channel. They always ask me . How I learn . I tell them beer bbq and a love for painting your own car 😌🤘
There’s nothing worse than getting your body work done thinking it’s straight putting it in the booth spraying it it looks like crap happened to me more than once that’s why it’s best to do it right the first time hardest lesson I have to learn was patients
Yes that is a real bummer. Try wetting a rag with wax and grease remover when you think you have it perfect. Then look right down the side of the vehicle while it's still shiny/wet that will give you a good idea if you have it or not :)
Can you spray the G2 feather fill over 2k urethane primer that’s been sanded ? I burned through the 2 k urethane high build if a few small areas
Yes. Basically you use feather fill if your body work is a little rough - maybe you need some extra thickness to help straighten it out. Otherwise you use regular primer surfacer.
Thank you Sir
@@theroughblueram114thgen5 👍💯
what grit paper on epoxy before spray ploy
You can spray polyester primer over bare metal, or un-primed filler. Polyester primer came out long before epoxy primer and that's how it was done (20th century). If you do decide to put it over epoxy primer though, you don't have to sand it.
@@LakesideAutobody You're a choice of Polly evercoat featherfill or high build DTM
@@Supanova70 I use the Evercoat Gray Feather Fill G2 Primer Surfacer - I'm sure all of the polyester primers are very similar though so what ever you have or can get will work just fine :)
What finish sanding means ? Just to lightly sand the primer everywhere so paint can stick with mechanical bond? 🍺
Here's a complete video on just your final coat of primer and finish sanding - ua-cam.com/video/Phd8cvKmapo/v-deo.html Nice to hear from you Petar :)
What is featherfill?
Feather Fill is super thick primer surfacer - it's a polyester primer. It's like spraying a thin layer of filler over your body work for extra material to black sand :)
Is that glazzing putty activated?? Looks like the old skool nitrostan
No - it's just the old red lacquer type putty - drys fast, convenient, works well, cheap, fast, sands easy. Just can't use a ton of it :)
@@LakesideAutobody true. Thats wby I ask
Does Featherfill use an activator?
Yes it does, it is in a small tube which is clear in color like fiberglass resin hardner.
There is also the super build. It comes with a bottle of hardener at a 4:1 mix. Also sprays one color and sands another so a built in guide coat much like z-chrome.
Yes
Are you always making videos with the same truck or just have a lot of jobs with the same models haha
Actually this truck was a real beater but ran great so I decided to fix it up to use as a car hauler. In between other work I'll make a video using this truck - one day it'll be all done - going with the original work truck rims/center caps and beauty rings. Should look real tough when finished - you'll see it done soon :)
If you can't get your bodywork straight then it is time to pack in bodywork and take up knitting...
There were a lot of guys I worked with couldn't get bodywork straight - it's not easy. Anyone who works in a high volume body shop would agree. Most stay away from serious damage like this: ua-cam.com/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/v-deo.html
Ok
Slick sand or feather fill always shrank so bad it wasent worth the money to me...
Does anyone want to comment as to what you would charge if you were only fixing that small area of the truck in the video. I feel like saying 800 but fear looking like a crook. A lot of coats and back and forth to straighten wavy panels.
If you are trying to come up with an easy way to price stuff just figure what your time is worth. For example if you don't want to work for less than say 20/hr calc. how many hours it will take you to do this job start to finish. Say it takes 22 hours then that would be 440 for labor plus paint and materials. Paint and materials can be right around 250 for this job (easy) - so you're right in the ball park for a DIY guy. Body shops might be in the 1500 range - but it varies greatly from place to place - hope that helps a bit. You don't want to be working for nothing that's for sure - Jerry
Thanks for the great videos and the advice Jerry. Love the video with the mustang that looked like an accordion.
@@motoworks7115 You're welcome - glad you like the videos - hope to have many more - I like making them :)
Should just put a new bedside on instead of spending 80 hrs block sanding & primering,primering& re- primering!! Lol
You could do that if you wanted to spend the money. There is always the risk too of it rusting faster than the original because lets face it you can never coat the inside, the welds, or the seams like the factory does. Thanks for the suggestion though Eric - have a good weekend.
LOL do not use primer to get your bodywork straight that's what butchers do learn to use bodyfiller to get your panels straight that's what it's for
Work on larger dents and serious damage ✌