🔧 Full Strip Down | Dewalt DCD 996 + Chuck Removal, easy repair and maintenance of your Dewalt Drill
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- In this video, I show you how to fully strip down your Dewalt DCD996 (Type 1). I go into full detail showing how to tear the Dewalt 18v battery drill, showing which screws to remove and even which stickers to remove for a clean strip down. The video also details the safe removal and fitting of a new replacement chuck for the Dewalt 18v DCD996 drill on how to remove the drive spindle from the chuck and also how to remove the chuck from the gearbox.
I really hope the video is helpful if it was please subscribe to my channel here: / @noseknows
I do believe you are the only man on UA-cam that truly explains how to remove a stubborn chuck as opposed to put in an Allen key Allen wrench and striking it with a hammer! Good job buddy thanks
Thanks John, appreciate the comment.
That's probably the worst way to remove a stubborn chuck. I didn't know better and almost broke my gearbox.
Your video gave me the incentive to try changing the chuck. The part of this job that makes your sphincter muscles pucker is the heating and removal of the shaft from the chuck. You have the luxury of a vice but for those of us that don't, when you screw on the new chuck with thread lock applied you can put a 3/4' socket on the nose of the chuck while tightening the shaft with a wrench.
Absolutely on the money. Detailed breakdown and reassembly of drill. I have just replaced my chuck as it had seized open and would not move and drill is back working 100%. Thanks again for this video.
Thanks Paddy appreciated - glad it helped.
I wish he’d get straight to the point though
Took the bat out first at 4+ min
@@SkinnyVinnyLivebeggars can’t be choosers…
If he was to “get to the point” faster, there would be 10 of your opposite doppelgängers wanting him to explain more and slow down…
My brother gave my his old 996 a few years back, after mine was stolen from my truck. He bought a new drill from another brand, but has asked for this drill back a time or two. But I've been very impressed with the power and durability and i shall be keeping it, though I do need to take it apart and clean, as well as inspect the bearings. Absolute beefcake of a drill
They are
No unnecessary babble, he has a watch and learn approach, loved watching, and actually learning something useful for a change... Thank You!
Thank you very much, this was just a video I was looking for I looked at other videos that said he had a setscrew but mine did not, very clear and precise instructions without any BS, you are right about factory toque on the shaft from the chuck, I applied a fair bit of heat and eventually it broke loose was able to strip my entire drill down and rebuild it. Thanks mate save me about $200 for a new drill.
Thanks Karl - Glad it helped.
Dcd995 has the set screw
A little tip on the drill stickers - when you use up postage stamps, keep the remaining no-stick sheet. You can place removed stickers temporarily on those sheets, which keeps the sticky side clean, and there’s no chance of accidentally goobering them up. 🧰 🛠️
Great tip!
Thank you sir! That is one of if not!!! The best tutorials I have ever watched. Absolutely outstanding!!! Fixed mine, don’t think I could have without it!! And you are right! You have to have patience of a saint to put that gear assembly in!!! Wow! Thanks again!!!
Thanks to this video my $300 flashlight can now drill holes again. I had to pull the chuck from a 986, cut the shaft a little and grind the flats a bit longer to get to fit into the 996 but it worked. Thank you.
What did you do to bugger the original chuck ?
@@interman7715 It locked up and wouldn't move.
Haha only just read your comment properly, glad the video helped. Your comment on the $300 flashlight gave me a laugh.
MAny thanks for this video. Based on your comments I cleared a big chunk of bench to make sure if any bits came adrift (and it did with the rollers) I could find them! Some additional info:
someone suggested the shaft could be removed without removing the gearbox. This is incorrect with my drill - the gearbox must be removed to get to the end of the shaft for drifting out.
My chuck was really seized on. In the end I cut of the outer thin metal parts of the chuck leaving just the solid steel core. This resulted in 3 things - I could put the flats at the other end in the vice using steel cheeks and really clamp it up hard; I could then heat the solid chuck core rather than the shaft which is better for several reasons; I then had room for 2x 14" stilson pipe wrenches on the core and really apply a lot of direct pressure to crack the joint
MOST IMPORTANT - if you do not get the exact same chuck remove and keep the plastic base of the old chuck. It is an integral part of the hammer action. When the chuck is screwed on it acts as a spacer and holds off the chuck which then holds up the shaft to keep the hammer ratchet rings apart. Like someone else I too had hammer permanently on. After dismantling and reassembling the drill, similarly the front drill/ hammer select ring and working out how it worked, I retrieved the ring from the waste, put it between the new chuck (generic Dewalt not an exact match as it had a metal back end not plastic) and it holds off the chuck unless hammer is selected and works just as expected.
Thanks again for a very helpful vid
Thanks Dave for your detailed observations, it’s always hard with these types of videos to cover every eventuality. I just want to try and help by creating this style of video. Thanks again and hopefully your comment will help other people repairing there Dewalt drills.
Wow, great break down video with clear explanations. I was told by dewalt that I couldn't change the chuck myself and have to get it to service. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for taking the time to do this. Excellent tutorial. I also had a bit of a hard time with the spindle and just when I was getting ready to throw in the towel I cooked the heck out of the shaft and finally broke it loose.
Hey Buddy - Glad you got the chuck off, they can be really tight to get moving.
@@noseknows Is there a retaining clip holding the spindle into the housing.?
Like a previous person I've had great difficulty in removing the chuck from the spindle. The chuck had seized up , luckily with nothing in the jaws. I put the flats of the spindle in the bench vice, as I decided that it was the best way of not wrecking the spindle. Several blowtorch sessions and a 1/2 drive impact socket later the chuck had un seized itself.
I Rounded off the 19mm nut on the nose of the chuck in the process. A new chuck cost me approx £37.00 , for an additional £16.00 I can get a spindle I think it's worth getting a new spindle when you get a new chuck, just to avoid the uncertainty of whether you'll be able to get the two apart .
Great video though, wouldn't have attempted it without you, and I've got a city and guilds qualification in motor vehicle repair. Cheers 😊
Absolutely brilliant thanks. Very clear and comprehensive. Best video angle so you can see everything, and clear explanation / narration.
Hey thanks that means a lot.
Hi last night I open my one completely put it back with gearbox and couldn't remove the chuck out. now I know how thank you very much!🙏👍
Glad it helped
Thank you for the informative video . I was able to fix the chuck. Reassembling the 1st set of gears was the trickiest just like you said. It took me about 10 try’s. Thanks for saving me money. Much appreciated!
Hey no problem glad it helped
I will add one extra secret step. Take some stranded copper wire, spiral out to a flat circle about the size of a penny five spokes maybe six. Bring that down through the gearbox at the very tip and hold from below and that will help install the very first gear train. Those five pins and that first rack are very tricky in my drill. Had to have some way to hold it from above, and below at the same time. Stiff copper wire did that for me. Hope that helps somebody else thanks for the video it was kick butt!!
I have a 4 year old drill/driver (not a hammer drill) that uses a chuck so bad that it quit working well after a month. The chuck used on the hammer drills is much better and will thread on perfectly.
Great video, just replaced the chuck in my DCD996 ... but I split the stickers, just worked best for DIY. Also, best to leave chuck and shaft OUT until finished and the gear boxes are all correct. I also found that to loosen the shaft from the old chuck, not enough to grip in a vice to use the spanner, but clamping the shaft flats in the vise with smooth jaw covering, crank tight, then use a 19mm socket to turn the chuck loose. Install the new one same way, with locktite. Lastly, put the chuck shaft in, turn to index, and then just smack chuck with the palm, a spring locks it in place.
Great William glad it helped - also thanks for putting down the method you used to repair your DCD996
I cannot get the drill to hold the shaft. It slides right out.
@@c.pierreorantes3703 There's a very small wire snap ring in there, smack the chuck with your other hand.
Did you re grease? Wondering if I should have greased those roller bearings in the front head assembly. If you tighten your chuck until it locks and then turn harder is it supposed to turn with enough force?
@@truthhurts2149 I added some bearing grease in mine, I used a bit of grey Valvoline High Temp wheel bearing greese with Molly because just what I had. The chuck shaft has two flats as I recall, it might turn with enough force but the reduction gears are gonna make it difficult if the shaft if indexed right.
Got my craftsman transmission apart, and the drivehaft was completely different. I was a six sided shaft that nothing would fit. Threw it in a vice and broke the chuck loose with a large pipe wrench.
Great video. Works for dcd999 as well
Excellent video, it's a shame that you don't have a lot more subscribers.
Thanks, yeah that’s why I stopped publishing really. Thanks though.
Thanks man you helped me a lot. Serviced mine today took everything off and its working better than before. Thanks again
Thanks kos - glad it helped.
nice video thanks for the advice. Knew there was a trick to installing the clutch drive assembly.
Thank you so much for this video! Really helped me out replacing the chuck on my DCD991. I don't have a vise so I ended up using a big Allen key in the chuck with a jack handle and an adjustable wrench on the shaft with another jack handle and that gave me enough leverage to break it loose
Great stuff Jake glad it helped, yeah the spindle on the chuck can be hard to budge.
Man oh man... Best video on the whole fucking internet!!! Not criticizing little milto channel but I was so fustrated what a relief... It's can be removed indeed!!!! And it is a better way in my opinion since no stress is put on the gearbox unlike with the traditional screw off and Allen key hammering... In little milto channel he even fucks it up with the impact. Keep it up man, this is how a channel starts growing, it's by putting out good content. You're the next Chris fix, but instead of cars it's electronics/tools
Thanks Pedro that means a lot.
Great video. Very clearly shown and described. I had a hell of a job unscrewing the bolt from the chuck but a blow torch overcame.. eventually!
Very good I feel reasonably confident to change the chuck in my drill
Thanks Clive
Great video really enjoyed very well explained and broke down in simple steps,aerial close up view was brilliant too..this would of been a nightmare repair without your explanation thankyou..please can you do more content like this I'm sure your viewer would love as I did..best wishes
Great vid! You walked me through and saved me $70 not having to pay dewalt's $100 factory breakdown fee. Those gears were tricky!
Just an fyi for anyone else trying this, I heated the spindle housing like said in the video. I had to heat it quite a bit and didn't end up realizing that there is more plastic in the body of the chuck and now have a pretty gnarly headache coming on. Make sure you've got good ventilation and/or a respirator when you heat the thing. It was suck on there pretty tight too and I had to destroy the front end of it to get any access to something I could vice onto to stop the outer housing spinning.
Thanks again dude! Definitely earned the subscribe button
Thank you for the lesson on the 996 I have the American version. I hope that I don’t use it, but I glad I have the information.
No problem
Great detail in this video your knowledge is extensive. You didn’t fool me regarding the vide damage to the gear box housing.
As an engineer for over forty years it takes a lot to pull the wool you didn’t manage it. lol. Buy yourself some vice jaw
protectors, I use hard and soft ones it does help yo stop those ugly hardened jaw in prints that can happen.
Good luck with your channel.
Thankyou
Awesome video. Used it to repair a drill we threw away at work. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for this. I can use this info if I have to remove the chuck on my Craftsman drill, which is owned by the same company. Tried a local warranty center, and theyt hey gave up.
One interesting thing about online customer service with my drill : You deal with an AI program . Somehow, the way I answered the questions caused the program to send a new drill complete with the charger and battery ! This might happen with a Dewalt as well.
You saved my life man . Thank you🙏🙏
Happy to help
He is the Messiah!
Awesome video man top job! I seized my chuck and had to buy another because I couldn’t find good enough resources for repair... definitely going to fix it up now thanks
Thanks Austin
Best video about this topic on UA-cam. I have a DCD985 and I can't get the spindle to pop out of the body. Haven't even gotten to the part about heating the spindle to get the chuck off. Any hints? You make it sound like yours just came out with one whack.
No hints really apart from it took a fair bit of leverage to get it to let go.
I have a drill exactly like the one in the video, incredible, to replace the spindle you have to disassemble the whole drill. In almost all drills to remove the spindle it is sufficient to unscrew a screw located at the bottom of the spindle itself.
Yes I know it’s ridiculous that they change the design of things and make them harder to repair and maintain. Sometimes I think they do stuff like this just to make it harder to repair and keep sales up of new drills.
@@noseknowsSales and trying to lock down repairability. A big reason why Right To Repair is sooo so so important.
Excellent video
Hey thanks
This video was extremely helpful in fixing one of these my friend found in a scrap pile. Thanks!
Great vid mate I'm in the process of rebuilding one, it came with 2nd half of cogs missing hopefully I will have it finished soon
Good luck!
This is the video on the 996 i have been looking for. I figured getting the chuck off was trivial. My 991 i believe would follow the same procedure as here, and i think the 79x series will be similar.
Thank you very much for sharing the video... It's really inspiring 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼😁
Thanks for the help, got it open and some WD-40 made the trigger work again.
WD-40 is for cleaning only, then lubricate with grease. You can do this using a syringe with a thick needle, warming up the lubricant a little.
Appreciate this detailed video
THANK SO MUCH
Brilliant video managed to repair my drill. Cheers Dave
Thanks Dave glad it helped
G’day and thanks from Australia. I followed your instructions to the letter and my chuck replacement went perfectly and everything worked at the first pull of the trigger. I have made a video dealing specifically with the chuck and why they can’t be repaired so would you mind if I reference your video and add a link to show others how to remove the chuck? My channel is not monetised it’s just for entertainment/ education.
Im absolutely cool with it if you’re not happy about that. Thanks and Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
Thank you for this detailed video. Which part do I need to replace when my hammer function no longer works?
Thanks got mine working again
No problem Sewell, glad it helped.
Hi, what kind of grease i can use for the gears?
I couldn’t open my chuck to get to the screw. I had to cut it apart with a Dremel metal cutting disc. The jaws came out eventually then I could get to the screw and remove the remnants of the chuck.
Awesome video, but I was surprised why you didn't re greased it. It appeared king of dry
Great point!
Totally worked!!! Cheers bro saved me 90 on a new drill not hard at all worth trying before paying out for new drill or someone to do it for you
Great stuff Ryan - yeah always worth trying to repair.
Thank you… for the very detailed info… just one bit of constructive feedback… I think the video could have been at least 10 min shorter… because you tend to repeat info 3, 4, 5 times, or more, it just eats up time. You don’t need to be talking continuously… to fill air space around you… a little pause in talking, between points, is good! Thanks again, and keep on providing great tips!
Love how the hardest step (heating up and loosening the shaft) isn’t in the video. Would love to see an unedited version. The shaft is tight as fuck!! Just FYI.
Yeah I made no indication that it comes off easy, I literally say in the video it’s not easy to shift.
FYI, I made a video that includes removing the chuck from the shaft which may help you out. You can look it up at Scrounga’s Workshop from about 2 years ago. Cheers Stuart.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 Hey thanks for the follow up that was good of you. Sorry for the “smartass” in my last post. As it turned out I just needed more heat. All I had was a pencil torch that runs on butane. Ended up taking it to work to use a legit oxy/acet torch. My drill runs great. I did have to disassemble it once more cause it was stuck on hammer mode. Other than that it was like new. Thanks for the tutorial. Keep making videos.
@@samson4907 Hi Sam, it wasn’t me you were being “clever” to but the original poster. I just left a reply that showed how I used oxy to heat the shaft. The only reason I saw your post is because I’ve had a reply to my own video, the one I recommended to you at Scrounga’s Workshop and the commenter said to use an Allen key and just hit it harder. Your post was actually useful to me because you backed up my claim that it’s as tight as fuck😂😂😂. I tell you though, you’re a good man to apologise as not many people are big enough to publicly do that.
Cheers Mate, Stuart.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 oh right on my bad. Thanks for the clarification. Happy new year!
Fantastic video well explained 👍
Thanks irfan
Excellent job thorough and explained out everything excellent thank you
Nice video, thank you 👍
I just found your UA-cam channel. Wow! I learned so much just from watching this video that I tried fixing my own Dewalt DCD996. I had some problems with the chuck that were easily fixed thanks to your video and explanations. I have a DeWalt DCD460 that I use extensively in my Electrical Contracting business. Any chance you could do a teardown and reassembly video of this drill? Again, thank you for the videos.
Hey thanks Bruce for your kind words, it all depends what comes to me for repairs if I get a DCD460 in for repair then I will do the tear down. Thanks
Is this the only way to remove the chuck. Can I remove the chuck without totally stripping down the rest of the drill ?
Great video
Great video was surprised how easy it was. Had the constant hammer problem after it went back together but neoc03 video fixed that up. Putting those first gears and pins in is tricky. I ended up putting a dab of grease on the 2 loose parts to hold it all together so i could fit it upside down which made it easier.
Gdsy mate what video is this? I have the same problem
What kind of grease did you use?
You are good!
I have a DeWalt DCD777 which has a similar chuck. I thought the Chuck was integrated to the gearbox. Thank you for showing this!
No problem, glad it helped
We just usually put a socket in a vice and run the drill in hammer mode in reverse. that will usually unthread the chuck using the drill's power.
is there a reason the above method is bad for the drill?
@@mrfixit1121 The silver gear cover can bend/snap in 2, depending on the model like the DCD791. The bolt is pressed in there, similar to a car's wheel bearing. Instead of doing that, hold one end with an adjustable wrench.
Clear and nice explanation. Thanks!
Is this the only way to switch the chuck, I mean, you must disassemble the whole tool to change that?🤔
So what’s stopping/why couldn’t you just drill through the old garbage chuck before the spindle, secure the drill in place firmly and tensioning off the spindle/chuck in one piece and then popping a new one in?
Hello thanks for the video my switch dont work anymoredo you have any idea what to do . I test my motor and he works thanks
Thanks
Done, but the firing pin is always active as never?
Excellent! Thank you!
Thank you for making this great video!
Thanks 🙏 SA
Am now on my 3rd on of these they seem to have a built in fault where they get stuck on hammer mode.
Little addition A little grease in each part of the gearbox?
Owned mine for 2 years and have tortured it drilling and breaking granite rocks. Chuck is finished. Great video but you did not apply any grease in the rebuild. Why not and where would you apply lubricant?
I would put grease only if I had to bath clean the parts. As it was, the grease was fine and was plenty left on the moving parts. These components only need a very thin layer and should never be packed with lubricant.
Any idea what the two wires coming out of the gearbox are used for?
Does the DCD996 have antikickback function?
Is it going to be a good idea to install a grease valve on the gear housing so next time the grease leaks it could be easily replenished with the help of a grease gun?
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to make this and get it out to us.
I used a propane torch for a long time, trying to loosen it periodically, it never broke loose, even after almost 20 minutes of heat, I gave it up, it isn't going to loosen I guess.
Hi - Thanks for that, yeah they can be very tight on the shaft to the point where the twist torque feels like the shaft will shear when trying to loosen off.
I have a problem with the slip clutch. After reassembling the whole thing it just stops spinning and turns of the motor too when it has to use more force for screwing. It makes no difference to turn the clutchring..
Do you have any ideas what i can check. I did not put the clutch apart, thats why I think it is a problem with the wiring/electronics…
Looks like a good place to ask a
question about Dewalt drills.
What if I want the hardened steel
chuck from a 996 on my 985.
You can install any drill chuck with a 1/2" thread.
@@justbeyourself3086
I'll look into it 👍Thanks
Excellent video, I've have two self tightening chucks to fit to my 996 drills. I started with my old one and now it's back togeather it seems to be stuck on hammer, anyone have any ideas?
please can you tell me what the 2 wires going into the gear box do. my new trgger dosent have them
Great video BUT you assemble it wrongly meaning it will be stuck in hammer mode the shaft has to be assembled out of the drill then put back. After following you video I now have to redo the entire job.
I have one dawalt but stock up the drill bit cannot full off what should I do.?
Is this how every chuck is connect in general? Can use this method to replace a chuck on Stanley Fatmax 750w corded? Thx
I have a dewalt 20V max cordless hammer frill withe the chuck frozen open. Is it a similar repair?
is 3/8" 24UNF chuck fits in DCD796
Hi
Any idea why my 996 goes faster on setting 9 on clutch vs setting 11 in reverse. In forward it goes faster on higher clutch setting as supposed.
Also, it it slower in reverse vs forward.
Thx
My one stucks on screwing mode and doesn’t change to hammer position..any suggestions?🤔
Any links to the 996 replacement chucks??
Thanks
First of all great video. Just curious why didn't you grease the bearings and the gears when you assembled the gears and housing?
Hey Thanks, I didn’t re-grease anything as there was enough of the original grease still on the internal gears ⚙️ etc so I didn’t won’t to get into cleaning everything down and regreasing.
Hello hey great video. Im wondering if you could help as im having an issue with my dewalt 20v brushless DcD 995 where it wont hammer drill, all the setting work for drilling. I bought and replaced the whole gearbox and chuck but when i put it on hammerdrill mode it still doesnt hammmer only drills in that setting. Would you have any idea what may be the problem ??
So the day before this video popped up on my feed, I broke a torx bit off in the chuck bolt!
It is stuck in there and I can't get it out.
My chuck needs replacing as it is dropping bits constantly.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Well not really advice but if you follow the video you can remove the chuck and replace with new the trickiest part is removing the spindle that is locked onto the chuck.
great video, i tore my DCD996 apart and re assembled it, I cant get it off of hammer drill so since the first time ive torn it appart 3 different times and still on roto hammer. What am doing wrong??
What kind of grease do you use ?
Great video
Question though. Why not tap that chuck shaft without removing the 2nd set of gears from the casting? Looks doable and can save a lot of patience when accental drops happen no?
Hey thanks for commenting on the DEWALT drill video, and thanks for the positive comment. Yes there are other ways to do it but I wanted to show you can strip it completely especially if you want to check the gears. Also there is chance if you catch the gear set with the punch that you might bend something. Thanks again.
Great video, really helpful and well put together. I've just bought a DCD996 and was trying to learn as much about it as possible.
Since you clearly know these drills well can I ask if it's normal for there to be considerable play/backlash? I was surprised by this. On my drill this is enough that on stopping from full speed in gear 3 (no load), there is quite a "clatter" as the chuck and shaft "bounces" a couple of times clockwise and anticlockwise.
I've never had such a powerful drill before so I don't know if this is typical. I'd have thought that wherever this free movement is coming from, it's a recipe for wear over time?
Thanks in advance!
Alan
Hey Thanks - Yes there is normally a jolt or kickback as you call it when you release the trigger and the drill stops.
My 985 does the same thing, took awhile to get use to. Feels like it’s gonna jump outta your hand after you let off the trigger!