Try using you drill in reverse after the bit drills the pilot hole. It should still cut through the polyethylene just fine. IT will take a bit longer but still give a very clean cut and less chance of kicking back as it is not as agressive.
Once you drill in the hole, place the drill in reverse, and the backward motion will not grab and jerk. However, it will create a nice circle that will help once you place it back to cutting direction.
Hi, We bought the stock tank bundle for plans and are trying to understand where the ball valve placement on the outlet fits in, where the output of the ball valve goes, is there a picture of the plumbing final setup you could share? We have the rubbermaid 100 gallon tank and plans, along with ozone, filter, etc, everything in the bundle of plans, we are past the framing part, but the plumbing is confusing us a little. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance
Hey Ben! Customer service questions are best handled over email where you can send images, etc. and it's easier/clearer for me to be notified. You can just reply to the email address from your order confirmation.
I just did mine and tried something different to clean the hole up. If you have a heat gun, pull anything excessive off by hand. After that, use your heat gun to melt up the rest of the little pieces. I tried this aesthetically on the top of the tup where I hit it with my saw and it shaped up nicely so I cleaned this up the same way.
The factory out let is plenty! Just fine reducers to fit it. For a outlet. Start drilling a bunch of holes in it, and rein it. Can always run the top hose over the top for a inlet. can use a spray bar, or like a water fountain. Its got factory holes around the top rail. for a mount if you wish
Just put in my bulkheads, It was a good call to replace the factory one. That thing is flimsy as hell. Im waiting on my custom sheet metal drip pan to get fabricated, then ill be on to the running of pipes and insulation. Drip pan will be under stock tank, going to mount my wheels on a slight incline to encourage any condensation caught in the pan to pool up towards the mech area where ill have an access panel on the back to put desiccant. Im planning on insulating the crap out of the tank area so shouldn't be too much sweating. There will also be a drip pan in the mech area that houses the pump and filter. Using some old pc fans to create a airflow in the mech area. I HOPE youll post my build to the blog as theres a lot of extra features the community could get inspiration from :)
Hey. Read some of the other comments and starting my own project. In his hidsight would you have just used the drain hole that’s already there and drilled one less hole? Or is two necessary?
Thank you for this video. I did do this for my plunge, but I did this only for the water filter, now I purchased an Active aqua .25 chiller and it's set up for a 3/4 hose not 1 inch, do you have any suggestion on how to match this up? I hope I explained myself here...Thank you!
Make your pilot hole without the hole saw on the arbor. After your pilot hole is complete then add the hole saw back onto the arbor. This allows you to slowly move the hole saw in rather than that abrupt start when the pilot bit goes through. 👍🏻
Would placing both holes on the short end of the tank be a mistake? Im thinking this would result in shorter hoses (less condensation/less heat loss), but Im not sure if this would impede proper circulation. Thanks!
Thank you for your videos. I bought your framing and plumping plans. I understand that you used the existing drain hole on the 100 gal rubbermaid tank as your outlet to the chiller. Did you use a y connector shutoff valve at the drain hole so the outlet hole can also be used to drain the tub? Hope that makes sense.
I am thinking about getting the framing plans off your website. I have a 150 gal Rubbermaid tub and wanted to know if the plans are speced for 150 gal. If not what changes would need to be made for 150 gal tub?
I prefer it a couple inches below the water line when no one is in the tub. Moves more water/breaks up the thermal barrier that way. Short answer is it's all preference. The tub is so small it will have plenty of recirculation
What is the reducer you use to go from this bulkhead fitting to the 1-1/4"ID x 1-3/4" OD braided vinyl tubing? Can you provide me with the Menards link? I think I have the rest, brother. Thanks. Just finished the OG 100 gal plunge and this is the last item I need.
I bought a water chiller that shipped with all the tubing, bulkhead fittings, elbow barb fittings, etc all sized at 3/4" (the Penguin Cold Therapy Chiller). Do you think I need to upgrade these parts to 1"? or am I fine using what they sent with the chiller?
I have a rubbermaid tub just like the one in your vid, and I use the icepod chiller. What do you recommend for insulation around the tub to help it stay cool, and what about the condensation? Thanks
Spray foam will be the only thing that will help with condensation, you'll want to get it on as much of the surface as possible. The Foambeak can help with that - diycoldplunge.com/products/foambeak-canned-foam-insulation-nozzle
I recently bought your video/pdf plans for the plumbing and I’m curious why you made another hole on the bottom right? The drain serves as an outlet and drain and then you have only one inlet which is the middle.
How are you connecting to tubing from the chiller ? Are you using 3/4" tubing or 1"? Would you switch to 3/4" bulkheads if you were using 3/4" tubing? thanks
I use 3/4" tubing. The reason I used 1" is that the male threaded fittings reduce down so much on the 3/4" Nothing wrong with 3/4" bulkheads, I just wanted to keep flow open as much as I could
Thanks for all the great videos! Does it matter how high on the tank the holes are cut for the inlet and outlet? Any reason one should be higher or lower than the other? Thanks!
Do you think adding some plumbers putty along with the bulk head can ensure enclosure? Bought some cause I was going to use a drainage pipe instead but found this video, would want to make use of the putty if it helps😊
I haven't found the video where you talk about exactly where to put the holes. I see the one in this video but where do I put the other hole? (or holes?) I bought the plumbing plans and they don't say exactly
Utilize the existing drain for the outlet + drain, then what I did was drill a hole about 1/2 way up on the opposite side. It's the hole I am installing the bulkhead toward the end of the video. I mention disregarding the other hole on that side (this was before I thought of the design in my plans)
can you help me with the location of my inlet (from the filter/sanitation system? does the inlet need to be higher than the level of the water inside my tub?
I’ve downloaded the framing guide and complete parts list and the Bulkheads are not listed. Just watched the Bulkhead video again and I see now you used 1”.
I did 2 and connected them with a tee fitting... but it was only because I changed my game plan mid-project. I haven't seen any difference in water flow between doing it this way and using only the drain plug.
there’s no way you used 1 7/8 hole saw bit. I use 1 7/8 hole saw bit and the hole is way too small for the 1” bulkhead. now I have to make this hole bigger somehow….
Thank you very much for your videos. So, the chilled water goes into the top of the tub and you used the tub drain location as your return to the chiller?
@@DIYColdPlunge If you use spray foam/pink insulation combination how would you be able to access and open the return/drain pipe to empty the tank? wouldn't you still need the dedicated drain pipe to drain? or am I missing something obvious?
So there is no need too drill two holes then just use the one drilled at the top of the tank for the chilled water inlet and the drain that comes stock on the tank as the return to the chiller ?
I'll make a video on this, but the main reasons are that they are all the exact same size (Metal has some variance), and they are less prone to leaking because they are molded without seams.
Here you go! www.menards.com/main/plumbing/pipe-fittings/tank-fittings-strainers/green-leaf-inc-bulkhead-union-fitting/tf100/p-1444431646587-c-8560.htm?tid=6595766261027535501&ipos=1
You will need to double check the size of your bulkhead. I've purchased 1" bulkheads from the same store at different times and the thickness has been different.
@@DIYColdPlunge yes but all you have to do is show the tool, cut the hole and then show where to cut the other hole but you talk about the hole saw for 30 mins before even cutting a hole. you're prob still talking about the hole saw honestly. lol
@@eztwraps lol cutting the hole is the one thing you can't undo... causes a lot of stress for folks hence the focus for the video. Feel free to move along... unless you want to keep talking about hole saws.
@@DIYColdPlunge we can keep talking about it. If you like since you really like talking about it. So how do you cut a hole in a plastic container? I was thinking an utility knife would work better with a hand drawn circle?
If you have to take 5 mins to explain the process of drilling with a hole saw you have no business to be drilling. I'm surprised this guy knows how to use a drill.
Well, I am sure he did it for ladies like me!!! I SUPER appreciate it when these "how to" videos don't assume you know how to do everything! I had to google how to attach drill bit!!! LOL!!! SO THANK YOU @diycoldplunge
Try using you drill in reverse after the bit drills the pilot hole. It should still cut through the polyethylene just fine. IT will take a bit longer but still give a very clean cut and less chance of kicking back as it is not as agressive.
that's an awesome tip, thanks!
Once you drill in the hole, place the drill in reverse, and the backward motion will not grab and jerk. However, it will create a nice circle that will help once you place it back to cutting direction.
nice tip!
Hi, We bought the stock tank bundle for plans and are trying to understand where the ball valve placement on the outlet fits in, where the output of the ball valve goes, is there a picture of the plumbing final setup you could share? We have the rubbermaid 100 gallon tank and plans, along with ozone, filter, etc, everything in the bundle of plans, we are past the framing part, but the plumbing is confusing us a little. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance
Hey Ben! Customer service questions are best handled over email where you can send images, etc. and it's easier/clearer for me to be notified. You can just reply to the email address from your order confirmation.
I just did mine and tried something different to clean the hole up. If you have a heat gun, pull anything excessive off by hand. After that, use your heat gun to melt up the rest of the little pieces. I tried this aesthetically on the top of the tup where I hit it with my saw and it shaped up nicely so I cleaned this up the same way.
good to know! thanks for sharing. Those scrapes can be frustrating
The factory out let is plenty! Just fine reducers to fit it. For a outlet. Start drilling a bunch of holes in it, and rein it. Can always run the top hose over the top for a inlet. can use a spray bar, or like a water fountain. Its got factory holes around the top rail. for a mount if you wish
👍
Just put in my bulkheads,
It was a good call to replace the factory one. That thing is flimsy as hell. Im waiting on my custom sheet metal drip pan to get fabricated, then ill be on to the running of pipes and insulation. Drip pan will be under stock tank, going to mount my wheels on a slight incline to encourage any condensation caught in the pan to pool up towards the mech area where ill have an access panel on the back to put desiccant. Im planning on insulating the crap out of the tank area so shouldn't be too much sweating. There will also be a drip pan in the mech area that houses the pump and filter. Using some old pc fans to create a airflow in the mech area. I HOPE youll post my build to the blog as theres a lot of extra features the community could get inspiration from :)
Send me the final build!
@@DIYColdPlunge hoping for completion this coming weekend, July 7th
Hey. Read some of the other comments and starting my own project. In his hidsight would you have just used the drain hole that’s already there and drilled one less hole? Or is two necessary?
Hey Brad! Two is not necessary, I drilled that hole before I thought of pairing the drain with the outlet from the tank.
Would the drain hole be better for pulling water into the filter? Or for clean water re-entering the tub?
Do you need a 1 inch 7/8 hole saw or can it be another size? I bought the 1 inch plugs from Amazon so the 2 3/8s seems way too big
👉 ua-cam.com/users/shorts67xL39EhJSA
Thank you for this video. I did do this for my plunge, but I did this only for the water filter, now I purchased an Active aqua .25 chiller and it's set up for a 3/4 hose not 1 inch, do you have any suggestion on how to match this up? I hope I explained myself here...Thank you!
Yep! You'll want a 1" threaded to 3/4" socket fitting to thread into the bulkhead.
Make your pilot hole without the hole saw on the arbor. After your pilot hole is complete then add the hole saw back onto the arbor. This allows you to slowly move the hole saw in rather than that abrupt start when the pilot bit goes through. 👍🏻
good tip!
Would placing both holes on the short end of the tank be a mistake? Im thinking this would result in shorter hoses (less condensation/less heat loss), but Im not sure if this would impede proper circulation. Thanks!
As long as you can create a water tight seal on the bulkhead there's no reason it wouldn't work 👍
pro tip, start hole saw in reverse for a few seconds then go back right tighty direction and you shouldn't skip the bit anymore
Thanks!
Thank you for your videos. I bought your framing and plumping plans. I understand that you used the existing drain hole on the 100 gal rubbermaid tank as your outlet to the chiller. Did you use a y connector shutoff valve at the drain hole so the outlet hole can also be used to drain the tub? Hope that makes sense.
Thanks! I use a ball valve at the drain/outlet 👍
I am thinking about getting the framing plans off your website. I have a 150 gal Rubbermaid tub and wanted to know if the plans are speced for 150 gal. If not what changes would need to be made for 150 gal tub?
I'm working on the 150 gal. now - it hasn't been released yet. The one that is up there is the 100 Gal.
do you need the bulkhead that is going into the tub half way up? Is there any drawbacks to having it low?
I prefer it a couple inches below the water line when no one is in the tub. Moves more water/breaks up the thermal barrier that way. Short answer is it's all preference. The tub is so small it will have plenty of recirculation
Are these 1/2 in bulkhead unions? I don’t see it listed on any of the guides or description. Thanks!
These are 1" 👍
What is the reducer you use to go from this bulkhead fitting to the 1-1/4"ID x 1-3/4" OD braided vinyl tubing? Can you provide me with the Menards link? I think I have the rest, brother. Thanks. Just finished the OG 100 gal plunge and this is the last item I need.
Hey! You'd need a 1" threaded to 1-1/4" barbed fitting.
Where did you purchase bulkhead fittings?
Menards. You can find them on Amazon too.
I bought a water chiller that shipped with all the tubing, bulkhead fittings, elbow barb fittings, etc all sized at 3/4" (the Penguin Cold Therapy Chiller). Do you think I need to upgrade these parts to 1"? or am I fine using what they sent with the chiller?
I would use what the manufacturer sent for the unit 👍
I have a rubbermaid tub just like the one in your vid, and I use the icepod chiller. What do you recommend for insulation around the tub to help it stay cool, and what about the condensation?
Thanks
Spray foam will be the only thing that will help with condensation, you'll want to get it on as much of the surface as possible. The Foambeak can help with that - diycoldplunge.com/products/foambeak-canned-foam-insulation-nozzle
thanks for this, but how do you connect 1 - 1/4 Tubing (from the intext pump) to that big 1 inch bulk head?
Same concept, just reversed. They make threaded x barbed fittings. You'd just need the appropriate size.
I recently bought your video/pdf plans for the plumbing and I’m curious why you made another hole on the bottom right? The drain serves as an outlet and drain and then you have only one inlet which is the middle.
This is my prototype stock tank. Those were all test holes
@@DIYColdPlunge that’s what I assumed but I was tripping out! 😂 so just the drain and inlet two holes is required?
Any reason you went with 1” vs 3/4” bulkheads? Curious because your filter is 3/4”. Thanks!
The male 3/4" threaded adapters constrict water flow quite a bit, which ultimately affected suction in my initial testing.
How are you connecting to tubing from the chiller ? Are you using 3/4" tubing or 1"? Would you switch to 3/4" bulkheads if you were using 3/4" tubing? thanks
I use 3/4" tubing. The reason I used 1" is that the male threaded fittings reduce down so much on the 3/4" Nothing wrong with 3/4" bulkheads, I just wanted to keep flow open as much as I could
@@DIYColdPlungebut how do you fit a 3/4 tubing into a 1” bulkhead, is our question…
@@jedslockedter4me "barded fitting" adapters. Was wondering this for a long time too
What size bulk head union for a 100 gallon rubbermaid stock tank drain?
I use 1" but just know there is not a standard outer size... 1" refers to the inner. Check on what hole saw size you need.
Would you recommend a special hole saw drill bit for a galvanized steel horse trough tank?
I used my standard one without issue - it's not super thick so it wasnt an issue. If you are buying new you may as well snag one for metal.
Thanks for all the great videos! Does it matter how high on the tank the holes are cut for the inlet and outlet? Any reason one should be higher or lower than the other? Thanks!
I have always put mine just below the water line when I'm not in the tub.
Do you think adding some plumbers putty along with the bulk head can ensure enclosure? Bought some cause I was going to use a drainage pipe instead but found this video, would want to make use of the putty if it helps😊
I've used silicone with the bulkhead in some builds and it has helped. I dont have experience with plumbers putty but it might work.
@@DIYColdPlunge When you say "it has helped", does that mean you've had leaks with the rubber gasket?
Did you end up using Plumber's putty to help seal the bulk head?@@DanSanniti I had the same idea and am considering using it to avoid leaks.
I haven't found the video where you talk about exactly where to put the holes. I see the one in this video but where do I put the other hole? (or holes?) I bought the plumbing plans and they don't say exactly
Utilize the existing drain for the outlet + drain, then what I did was drill a hole about 1/2 way up on the opposite side. It's the hole I am installing the bulkhead toward the end of the video. I mention disregarding the other hole on that side (this was before I thought of the design in my plans)
Can you add these bulkhead fittings to the portable material tubs?
I'm not sure...
How did you seal the bulkheads? I keep getting leaks mo matter how much silicone I use
I did it the exact way I show in this video
can you help me with the location of my inlet (from the filter/sanitation system? does the inlet need to be higher than the level of the water inside my tub?
Sure! I put mine opposite the existing drain hole - it's the hole in the middle at 6:32 in this video.
Don’t see the bulkheads in the build plans….where and which ones are preferred ?
All of the plumbing or start to finish plans include links to the exact products I used. Are you on the framing only plan?
I’ve downloaded the framing guide and complete parts list and the Bulkheads are not listed. Just watched the Bulkhead video again and I see now you used 1”.
Drilling in reverse will give you a much cleaner cut
That is an excellent tip
Anyway to connect the pump to the drain hole on the Rubbermaid?
Yep! That's what I recommend. Your plumbing starts from that bulkhead
@@DIYColdPlunge how did you make connection there? PVC reducer?
I know that center one is your out let but did you say you’re doing 2 inlet holes?? More water pressure since it’s gravity fed??
I did 2 and connected them with a tee fitting... but it was only because I changed my game plan mid-project. I haven't seen any difference in water flow between doing it this way and using only the drain plug.
The link you posted for the bulkhead says you need a 2-1/4" hole is that correct or should we go smaller and get the 1-7/8" hole saw
I didn't notice that! Mine was 1 7/8" and worked out just fine.
there’s no way you used 1 7/8 hole saw bit. I use 1 7/8 hole saw bit and the hole is way too small for the 1” bulkhead. now I have to make this hole bigger somehow….
@@pcahn621 It 100%, without a doubt was. It looks like the manufacturer changed the style of their bulkhead
@@pcahn621 is it for your inlet back into the tub?
@@pcahn621 Check this out - ua-cam.com/video/fwpOAsN0J9g/v-deo.html
just found your channel. thank you! any reason this wouldn't work with the galvanized steel tanks?
sorry... I asked too soon! you address this in the video.
No worries! Hope this helps 👍
Thank you very much for your videos. So, the chilled water goes into the top of the tub and you used the tub drain location as your return to the chiller?
Correct!
@@DIYColdPlunge If you use spray foam/pink insulation combination how would you be able to access and open the return/drain pipe to empty the tank? wouldn't you still need the dedicated drain pipe to drain? or am I missing something obvious?
I think I found what I was looking for in your intake/outake PDF, so no need to answer.
So there is no need too drill two holes then just use the one drilled at the top of the tank for the chilled water inlet and the drain that comes stock on the tank as the return to the chiller ?
Any reason for the Rubbermaid over the metal? Thanks for the video good stuff!
I'll make a video on this, but the main reasons are that they are all the exact same size (Metal has some variance), and they are less prone to leaking because they are molded without seams.
It appears that all of your EQ uses 3/4" fittings - any reason you use 1" bulkheads instead of 3/4?
The ID on the 3/4" restricts flow more than I wanted it to. Much more problematic on the outlet to the pump than the return though.
Link to the bulkheads used?
Here you go!
www.menards.com/main/plumbing/pipe-fittings/tank-fittings-strainers/green-leaf-inc-bulkhead-union-fitting/tf100/p-1444431646587-c-8560.htm?tid=6595766261027535501&ipos=1
@@DIYColdPlunge Thanks. Also, are you going to have ozone generators back in-stock soon?
@@ThanksWyatt I just got the shipping confirmation yesterday, I typically have them in about a weeks time
What size hole do we need to drill?
You will need to double check the size of your bulkhead. I've purchased 1" bulkheads from the same store at different times and the thickness has been different.
Why are you wearing sunglasses to drill a hole in plastic? Lmfao..
Um... it's bright out? Is that acceptable to you?
Why am I half way through the video and your still talking about the hole saw?
You need holes to use bulkheads 👍
@@DIYColdPlunge yes but all you have to do is show the tool, cut the hole and then show where to cut the other hole but you talk about the hole saw for 30 mins before even cutting a hole. you're prob still talking about the hole saw honestly. lol
@@eztwraps lol cutting the hole is the one thing you can't undo... causes a lot of stress for folks hence the focus for the video. Feel free to move along... unless you want to keep talking about hole saws.
@@DIYColdPlunge we can keep talking about it. If you like since you really like talking about it. So how do you cut a hole in a plastic container? I was thinking an utility knife would work better with a hand drawn circle?
@@eztwraps I'm all in if you are! But let's focus, we're talking hole saws here - not utility knives.
If you have to take 5 mins to explain the process of drilling with a hole saw you have no business to be drilling. I'm surprised this guy knows how to use a drill.
😂 thanks for stopping by
Well, I am sure he did it for ladies like me!!! I SUPER appreciate it when these "how to" videos don't assume you know how to do everything! I had to google how to attach drill bit!!! LOL!!! SO THANK YOU @diycoldplunge
🙏@@cycology3