I wouldn't recommend soldering them in that way. If they aren't rotated to the proper position you can get problems fitting switch legs into the socket, especially bigger ones like the kailh box switch legs and you'll have to end up doing something crazy like filing the legs or avoiding them altogether. Best way is to fit the sockets onto a switch's legs, fit them onto the pcb and solder, then pull the switch out and repeat. Just be slow and very careful.
Question about taping them all at once, if you're using a plate mount board does that method mess with the alignment with the switches at all? Or are the tolerances of fitting the Mill-Max in are sufficient? (Building a KBD75v2 so just wondering)
I have a kbd75 as well! And I didn't have any problems doing it that way. Though I will say. I have improved my method and instead of taping them, I mount the sockets to the switch and then mount the switches to the pcb/plate and solder the sockets in
So I just got some 7305 sockets and I can't get them over one of the two legs of my linjar switches (which are just recolored gateron yellows). Am I missing something here? It's the leg with the groove on it, it looks like it's too wide and just won't go into the socket (from the wide end). Weirdly enough, the same pin will go in from the other end partially, so I'm not understanding the issue. Any tips?
@@Absoult Turns out the linjars have a slightly too wide second pin. It can be filed down (which I haven't gotten around to). Still second guessing whether I should even bother wish hotswap on multiple boards, or if I should just make a macropad or single board hotswap. We'll see :)
If you have a through hole that isn't able to stay in place due to having multiple layouts. Use a switch to put it in place and then solder it on with the switch. I don't prefer this method since when you make a mistake it's less forgiving.
Yes they will stay in place. These are soldered on so they're not going anywhere. They're super secure, but that is also depending on the switch. Not all switches have the same thickness of leads.
Thanks for the great video. I’m pretty sure it is the digit after the dash that determines size rather than the first digit. As far as I can tell, the only difference between the 0305 and 7305 are the falange at the top. 7305 are more flush. The tall ones are 7305-2 and the short ones are 7305-0. And there is one in between 7305-1. (Same goes for 0305’s) I think the reason they are different size is because of that 5th digit being different more than the first. Thanks for the video and link
I'm curious, is it really necessary to solder those sockets in? Besides of course being loose, wouldn't they work if you just plain stick them in as well?
Depends on how you plan to mount them. The sockets in the video won't fit LED sockets, but if you can solder the LEDs under your switches that's the best method.
I'm looking into using these for a quefrency build, do you think i'd still have to use pcb mount switches for it with these or could i get away with plate?
if you have some pcb switch laying around, you can use it for alignment (put the socket into the switch pins, and remove them after soldering). after that, you can use plate mount
@@Looo0007 this is actually my preferred method now since the video is somewhat old at this point. I find it easier to mount the sockets to the pins of the switch and then solder the switch as normal as if the sockets were the pins.
You can use kapton tape(the tape shown in the video) to do your soldering work. I don't prefer using electrical tape since it can leave a sticky residue on your pcb. If electrical tape is all you have then use what you got. Usually I use poster putty since they're easier to work with as they peel off components in one piece and they're cheap. You can find them at the dollar store.
I'm considering these for one of my upcoming builds (disclaimer - I'm kind of new to this). One thing I don't fully understand is the following - if you've got a PCB that normally relies on having switches soldered in that hold it to the plate, does it mean that with these sockets all it would rely on is the friction of all the switches' pins to hold it?
I haven't gone any extensive durability tests. Though they are still holding my switches strong after 2 years. Even after changing the switches out multiple times. The connection should be good for a very very long time.
These are Mill Max 0305. The other ones that he mentions in the video are the 7305, which cost twice as much, are gold plated, are a bit shorter and should offer broader compatibility. If you are interested in them and live in Europe, there's a GB going on atm so you wouldn't want to miss that
Your lucky you dont get cold solder joints you gold it there to long you could also damage your board it's supposed to be 2 seconds max from touch to finish
I use a very low temp. Just hot enough to melt the solder. I also refuse to touch the solder straight to the iron since that's bad practice. Though when operating with extreme heat, yes you don't want the iron to sit too long this could severely damage the pads.
I wouldn't recommend soldering them in that way. If they aren't rotated to the proper position you can get problems fitting switch legs into the socket, especially bigger ones like the kailh box switch legs and you'll have to end up doing something crazy like filing the legs or avoiding them altogether.
Best way is to fit the sockets onto a switch's legs, fit them onto the pcb and solder, then pull the switch out and repeat. Just be slow and very careful.
Finally get this recommendation I need it 😀
any idea what "reversed 0305" means when applying these mill-maxes?
What temp do you have your soldering gun to when doing this?
300-350C usually
depends on the solder you're using, so hard to say.
Question about taping them all at once, if you're using a plate mount board does that method mess with the alignment with the switches at all? Or are the tolerances of fitting the Mill-Max in are sufficient? (Building a KBD75v2 so just wondering)
I have a kbd75 as well! And I didn't have any problems doing it that way. Though I will say. I have improved my method and instead of taping them, I mount the sockets to the switch and then mount the switches to the pcb/plate and solder the sockets in
So I just got some 7305 sockets and I can't get them over one of the two legs of my linjar switches (which are just recolored gateron yellows). Am I missing something here? It's the leg with the groove on it, it looks like it's too wide and just won't go into the socket (from the wide end). Weirdly enough, the same pin will go in from the other end partially, so I'm not understanding the issue. Any tips?
Check if you got any solder inside the socket that prevents the switch from going in
Did it work out ?
@@Absoult Turns out the linjars have a slightly too wide second pin. It can be filed down (which I haven't gotten around to). Still second guessing whether I should even bother wish hotswap on multiple boards, or if I should just make a macropad or single board hotswap. We'll see :)
If you have a through hole that isn't able to stay in place due to having multiple layouts. Use a switch to put it in place and then solder it on with the switch. I don't prefer this method since when you make a mistake it's less forgiving.
some more tip: put the tin on your solder tip. that's how i solder mine.
Can I do this on my ducky one 2 mini?
You would have to desolder off your current switches but yes.
@@sashkoification Those work, make sure they fit on the board you're ordering them for, I've heard those don't fit most PCBs
@@sojourn_tv yes i ordered and they are too wide. Got millmax sockets 7305, they fits better
Awesome tutorial, im wonder if you know which ones i should get for LEDs on the board. Thanks!
will this effect the stabs because this will make the switches sit a bit higher than the stabs
That's a good concern. I haven't had a full sized keyboard with the 0305 but the 7305 have a thin enough head where its not noticable.
I have the exact problem right now
How secure will the switches be? And when removing switches will the sockets stay in place
Yes they will stay in place. These are soldered on so they're not going anywhere. They're super secure, but that is also depending on the switch. Not all switches have the same thickness of leads.
Thanks for the great video. I’m pretty sure it is the digit after the dash that determines size rather than the first digit. As far as I can tell, the only difference between the 0305 and 7305 are the falange at the top. 7305 are more flush. The tall ones are 7305-2 and the short ones are 7305-0. And there is one in between 7305-1. (Same goes for 0305’s) I think the reason they are different size is because of that 5th digit being different more than the first.
Thanks for the video and link
I'm curious, is it really necessary to solder those sockets in? Besides of course being loose, wouldn't they work if you just plain stick them in as well?
They would work but when you pull out the switches they will come out with the switches
They will also be more wobbly if you don't solder them
Yes it's necessary. Without soldering there won't be a stable connection.
Would I need to get mill max for my LEDs too? (I'm planning to use them on my Ducky One 2 mini.
Depends on how you plan to mount them. The sockets in the video won't fit LED sockets, but if you can solder the LEDs under your switches that's the best method.
They make mill-max in tons of shapes and sizes. A little overwhelming if you ask me.
Very helpful mate 👍🏻 thank you!
What solder did you use?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this on all my projects, anything for a ngnl fan :3
Is it ok to solder with bigger solder ?
i recommend melting the tin to your soldering tip first, as the bigger diameter solder is usually hard to control.
Would the keyboard work without soldering the sockets on haha
I'm looking into using these for a quefrency build, do you think i'd still have to use pcb mount switches for it with these or could i get away with plate?
if you have some pcb switch laying around, you can use it for alignment (put the socket into the switch pins, and remove them after soldering). after that, you can use plate mount
@@Looo0007 this is actually my preferred method now since the video is somewhat old at this point. I find it easier to mount the sockets to the pins of the switch and then solder the switch as normal as if the sockets were the pins.
The question I have is...can you remove these later and go back to the regular PCB?
why would u want to?
@@oaf1575 I have a Discipline that has these and no plate to hold in the switches. They flex heaps so I will have to desolder the Mill-Max.
@@bakeraus you can remove them, just desolder
Yeah they're really easy to remove, just don't plan on reusing them.
Do you have to use this kind of tape for this or would electrical tape work?
nO, Only oRAngE trANspArEnT
Pierre Nodoyuna i don’t know i thought you might need heat resistant tape or something
@@carson2889 Well that is a good question then XD, I guess the socket gets quite hot in the process
You can use kapton tape(the tape shown in the video) to do your soldering work. I don't prefer using electrical tape since it can leave a sticky residue on your pcb. If electrical tape is all you have then use what you got. Usually I use poster putty since they're easier to work with as they peel off components in one piece and they're cheap. You can find them at the dollar store.
I'm considering these for one of my upcoming builds (disclaimer - I'm kind of new to this). One thing I don't fully understand is the following - if you've got a PCB that normally relies on having switches soldered in that hold it to the plate, does it mean that with these sockets all it would rely on is the friction of all the switches' pins to hold it?
Pretty much, yeah.
Is less of a problem if the switches are 5 pin.
Where'd you get them and what's the part number?
Thanks for asking! I provided links in the description
@@sojourn_tv Thank you :)
how durable are these? how long do they last?
I haven't gone any extensive durability tests. Though they are still holding my switches strong after 2 years. Even after changing the switches out multiple times. The connection should be good for a very very long time.
Awesome video! Which sockets are these, there seem to be a lot of different types?
These are Mill Max 0305.
The other ones that he mentions in the video are the 7305, which cost twice as much, are gold plated, are a bit shorter and should offer broader compatibility.
If you are interested in them and live in Europe, there's a GB going on atm so you wouldn't want to miss that
They look more resistant than the kailh ones.
For those looking for hotswapping LEDs as well, search for LED SIP sockets
Your lucky you dont get cold solder joints you gold it there to long you could also damage your board it's supposed to be 2 seconds max from touch to finish
I use a very low temp. Just hot enough to melt the solder. I also refuse to touch the solder straight to the iron since that's bad practice. Though when operating with extreme heat, yes you don't want the iron to sit too long this could severely damage the pads.
@@sojourn_tv i burnt my escape key, it can still input when i touch the pcb with tweezers,the metal pad is gone, dont know if i can still fix it
@@arsyasultan2505 depending on which pad was lifted, you can bridge a wire from a key in the same row or column to the socket and be fine.
instead of tape you can also use a switch to hold it in place (dont do this with box switches its a bitch)