I don't actually shoot that regularly. Perhaps a couple of times a month. The secret is in the technique, rather than in raw strength. It's all about using your bodyweight to push the bow away from you as you draw. I hope to make a video showing this technique when I get the time. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I don't mind at all mate. I really want you all to play around with it and make your own bags and have great fun doing it. That's really why I make these videos, to share the information I have gained over the years to help promote traditional archery and help those who perhaps don't have fellow archers living close by to learn from. Glad you found it useful. :)
Just wanted to compliment you English here, so correct, but so accesible for non native speakers at the same time. "Dynamic" of the video is pretty well balanced, too. We watch it, so do not stop making more!
Thank you. I have used my bag at a few roving shoots since making it and having the ability to choose which arrow I use by its head is a great feature. In battle this may have been very important.
It's cool bag. It's more medieval and authentic. I like the arrows do not fall when the bag open on both sides. With the arrow spacer and video instruction I think I will do it Konrad
God that was an amazing work I'm really impressed, thanks you for sharing this knowledge I remeber when first searched for a tutorial on the english arrow bag there was no result but now seems my search was completed, thank you sir.
Nice bag Nick. As I said in the other video, I made 2 this summer. After the experience from the first bag, I made the extra cloth in the two ends far longer than the first time. I ended up with a pretty long bag, but it fitts the arrows perfectly. I also made mine so I could carry it on my back while walking, and attatch it to my belt while shooting. I also used a machine on the folds, and then did the visible stiches by hand. Next time I'll make one, I'll probably borrow some of your ideas too
Hey Vincent! Hope you are well my friend. The binding is supporting a repair that was done to the bow a few years ago after the back started to split at a knot. Steve Stratton did an excellent repair on it and I could probably take the binding off now but I leave it on just for added security.
Hey Nick, Thank you for making these great videos! They have been so incredible helpful! I made an arrow bag using this method and it works great. For extra water protection I pre wax the linen. I did the same with my linen bow bags.
Very nice video. The tempo of your speech goes well with the scenes in the video, and it covers everything quite thoroughly. If I were to make one of these, I think I would start with the tube inside out, sew the seam together and then turn it right side out. That would eliminate one step for you and you could use a smaller seam allowance. Yours is the first video I've seen with the arrows drawn point first, but I like your thinking on why it could have been done that way. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos and share your work.
Thanks so much for this video, I have now made two of these bags and they are great, I made a modification with the strapping so I can also wear it on my back or shoulder :-)
That sounds great mate. I am always keen to hear what designs others have come up with and if my video helps you make another bag then all my hard work has paid off and I am very pleased.
i love your diy arrow bag! your instructions are clear and easy to follow especially for beginners like me who can't sew to survive. I can't find any quiver or arrow bag that suit my taste in the market, of if there is, so out of my budget. So I've made myself one using your tutorial with some modification using pringles bottles :) thumbs up for your effort!
very impressive mate, must say I am a big fan of the back stitch my self in general repairs, but I think I need to practice the invisible stitch (hidden stitch) the bag looks very well made and authentic, well done Nick!
Preventing is always beter than letting it happen, good job! Yew is to precious to just leave it to the occasion. I am doing .. well lets just say I am getting better. My wrist is bending a little bit again and I have good hopes I can shoot again in a week or 5 - 6. Hope you are doing OK, your movies keep inspire me :) (and at this moment make me envy you of being able to shoot and I am not)
Hi My father and I wrote and article The Personal Carriage of Arrows from Hastings to the Mary Rose By Jonathan Waller and John Waller Arms & Armour, Volume 7, Number 2 (2010) That covers the various ways that arrows were carried we did a lot of work on arrow bags, based upon research from various sources and also the work we have done with The Mary Rose. Thanks for posting these videos. JW
Maybe you could sew a wooden hoop beneath the leather circle so that it rests on the sewn circle. This would give you the support you want. Great job. Our quivers in the American southwest were made of leather and mostly of mountain lion skin. Since our arrowheads were made of flint, I'm trying to find out what we used at the bottom the quiver so that the arrow points did not cut into the skin and/or chip the points. My brother suggested that hunters would put a circle of buffalo skin at the bottom; this would keep the arrows from banging against one another, the thick hair would protect the points and protect the skin from being cut from the flint arrowheads.
Superb Video. Drawing the point first seemed a bit odd for me when i saw it, but after your explanations it makes absolute sense to me. I intend to build one myself, because I just bought a traditional Longbow fo fun shooting (normally I shoot FITA-Recurve) and like to keep the looks authentic. thanks for the guide
The sapwood back started to lift at a knot. Steve Stratton repaired it for me and the binding was just a precaution while the bow settled back in to being shot. That was years ago but I decided to leave it on for security and peace of mind.
Hi Nick, I'm very interested in making one of these as modern quiver designs really don't appeal to me. Really like the medieval looking stuff but I think I might design it as either a side or back quiver for practical club shooting. Hope to see more videos from you soon, they're really interesting and very well put together. Cheers G
I'm with you on the point first theory, it would be the only way you could differentiate between different head types while shooting from the quiver. Magyar & Cuman quivers were both point up orientation, presumably to make it easier to load the bow without accidentally spiking you or your horse.
I agree that relying on art alone would not be ideal but remember that we do have the leather spacer disks from the Mary Rose. There was also a similar bag surviving in the 1700s but which has since been sadly lost. My guess is the arrows were bundled in sheaves of 24, with the spacer, and packed in barrels. Individual sheaves would be given to the archers who would slot them into an empty bag of very simple design perhaps? Nice comment and thanks for posting.
Indeed this is something that needs to be considered, As we mention in the article ;) with a spacer any form barb on the head makes it impossible to draw them back out so they have to be drawn from the point. If we consider that war arrows are one shot ammunition, then any effect on the fletching is of little concern...
Yes it is a Poletti bow, made for me back in 2008. A couple of years ago the lower limb cracked and lifted at a knot in the sapwood so I had a different bowyer repair it. The binding was a temporary measure until the bow settled back in but I leave it on as an insurance against it reccuring.
That makes pretty good sense drawing the arrow point first. Even though you demonstrate it at a speed that most current experienced archers could easily replicate, I would imagine a combat archer from the Medieval period would have no problem reloading this way much quicker. I think what most people don't think of is that soldiers will find a way to do things that will work for them individually, even in modern armies where you're 'supposed' to have a standard way, you still see soldiers exercise their unique ways and it works for them. It's quite possible that not all archers of the Hundred Years War carried and reloaded the same way although there probably was a generally accepted method as evidenced by the historical artifacts found. That's very interesting though, I hadn't even though about a 'pass through' quiver as shown in your vid. It looks effective and makes good, simple sense.
Hi Jazzman. Great comment mate, and glad you enjoyed the video. Experimental archaeology is great for this kind of thing. Not only do we read the sources, but we build their equipment as accurately as possible and put it into use year-round, so we soon get a good idea whether it would have worked or not. I agree that the guys back then would certainly have tailored their kit and technique as they became more seasoned on campaign. Oh to have been a fly on the wall back then! :)
Yes there is a difference. The arrow bag seems to have been used in the medieval period to carry 24 arrows in a cloth bag with a leather spacer to stop the fletchings being crushed. They could be opened at either end with a drawstring. They may have been carried and used at the belt but most illustrations show them being used for transporting arrows only. The quiver is a leather tube that came in much later, open at the top only, designed to hold arrows at the waist for immediate use.
Hi. There isn't a great deal of information about arrow bags or quivers from the medieval period, but it seems that back quivers and leather side quivers like we use today were certainly later. I don't know why, but a cloth bag around the waist could be opened at both ends which would allow the archer to see the arrow heads and chose the type he needed quickly. More often in battle arrows were simply stuck in the ground at their feet though, rather than held in any kind of bag/quiver.
Truly interesting build. Is there any historical record of pine needles or felt pads being filled within to prevent arrowheads from puncturing out to the other end? I would be little concerned of that happening however thick the linen used may be, especially while carrying razor sharp broadhead arrows. Thanks
Well I am just be a stupid yank from across the pond, but that is one sweet arrow bag. I am going to make one alittle smaller as I dont have a sweet warbow to play with, just a simple recurve. Thanks for the Vid.
Thanks. I'm glad you like them. I am planning to do more but during the summer my group does so many public displays that I don't get much time to film and edit something new. The first part of my new series on how to make a self yew bow is coming along nicely though and should be uploaded soon. Sorry for the delay.
Thank You so much for posting this guide, it made the job of making my arrow bag painless, good clear instructions and pictures! Although I bought an arrow spacer ready made, I did the rest as per. Only difference was I used a plaited leather thong instead of the cord you used but when I added the aiglets I must say it looks the business, really medieval. Once again, Thanks, and BTW are you posting any new vids soon? Cheers, Norm.
Really intresting arrow bag and nice illustration and instructions while makeing it. im so going to try this a tad later on as im shooting a longbow thou not at thoose pounds =)
I guess it would depend on the type of bow and what poundage you make it. If you are making something low in poundage then yes it might help, but only for a "play around" bow, somthing you shoot in your garden etc. I doubt whether it would work on a proper bow but if you have a go and get good results then I would love to hear about it.
Yes that's correct Andreas, the ship was Henry VIII's flagship and she went down in 1545. I have often wondered whether wood could also be used for the spacer disk, and some people following my pattern have used wood instead and it seems to work well.
By the way, remember I told you in some comment I was getting my first warbow this summer? Well I did:D at first it was 105pounds at 32, then when the wood setteled, it came to 100 as i ordered. Brute looking wych elm made by Daniel Taralrud (guy who made the mad 210 pound bow for Joe)
Hi I have watched both of your videos, and found them great in the first one you though that the added v cut to the arrow slot holes were for brawdheads, but watching your demo at the end of the 2 nd video you draw the arrow from the bottom of the bag this would explain why the v cut it would not strip the fletchings this way, I am now going to try to make this thanks for your time in the videos keep up with your tips
Hi Nick, I have an idea why the triangular slits are for. The idea of being used to accommodate "broad heads" is rather based on speculation, isn't it? You also found that broadheads could be inserted without those. What if the slits had a different function. What if the holes were in fact 1-2 mm smaller than the actual arrow diameter and those slits had the actual purpose to prevent the shafts/arrows from slipping out. I don't know how to put it better - but I guess you understand what I am saying. Great videos, thanks for sharing!
Great idea Jean-Luc, and certainly possible. Remember however that it is also possible the arrows were pulled from the botton of the bag, so the fletchings would have to go through that hole as well. That's what makes history so interesting; the sharing of ideas and practical experimentation.
To me it makes more sense (especially as you had experienced that the arrows could sit tighter) than the "broad head theory. Bodkin heads were much more common if I am not mistaken. Like nowadays, they would have needed another solution for actual broad heads. I may even try it in a different design, as my specialty is not actually historical stuff. But you know, outside the box input is good but never even in a box is even better :) Cheers!
I buy most of my material from Bernie the Bolt who is based in Cambridgeshire. He can be seen at all major reenactment events and historical trade fairs in the UK. If he isn't there then there is always at least one other fabric trader on site.
Hello. I'm sorry, I don't speak Spanish but I used Google translate and I believe the fletching is cutting your finger when you shoot. If that is the case then you have your nocking point on the string too low. Raise the nocking point by about 1cm and try again. The arrow should lift over your finger so that the feathers do not cut any more. If they still cut then raise it again. I hope you understand my message and my advice helps.
Hi, have thought about using a wooden arrowspacer? I forgot where I read about it, but there the arrow bag was described as an wooden frame covered with fabric. Very cool videos by the way :-) Keep it on. Regards
In response to point 2 in the description, I had the same thought but have opted to make the bag as long as the longest arrow needs, and simply roll the bottom up and tie it off higher when using shorter arrows, and tie it off lower down when using la longue ones.
Yes I would guess that using a good glue would help. As for checking whether a bow is dry or not, the only way I know of is to use a wood moisture meter. They aren't very expensive.
I tried to ducttape back the bow. It worked great on the first day, but when the bow stood in my room for 1 night the ducttape started to get loose. I guess it would work if you put it on with glue or something that holds it there.
I wonder if the slits in the holes were there to allow for shrinkage of the leather. or even the taper of the arrow. First theory shrinkage, if you got your arrow bag wet the leather would theoretically shrink when it dried if the holes were snug it could grip your arrows tight enough you wouldn't be able to draw them. Second theory for tapered arrows the hole would allow the arrow to be held snugly yet still allow the larger nock end to pass through the hole. Not sure just what came to mind.
This is AWESOME. My only question is, if you're a right-handed bowman (as most are) how would having the arrowheads at your left hip make sense? Shouldn't they be on the right, where an archer has his most sensitive touch, and of course his best ability to draw? I'm genuinely curious and not at all critical.
I bought them off ebay from a store called Stuff Etc UK. They only cost a few quid. I don't think they are trading any more though as a quick search couldn't find them today.
Yes don't worry, they were received. Unfortunately I have to approve all comments to filter out the abuse and childish arguements and name calling that seems to be common practise on UA-cam, and I only have time to do this once a week. Many thanks for your comments.
The V cut out are not common to the spacers, if one can say that about the limited number that have been found. The thing with the spacers with out them is it will only allow heads of a certain size to be pushed through, the article my father an I wrote on arrow carriage. The v notches allow larger heads to be pushed through.
Hi mate, I've just made an arrow bag of pretty much the same design as yours to hold 32" medieval style arrows. One problem I'm finding when worn set up to draw the arrows through point first is that replacing the arrows into the bag after the shot is a very hit or miss affair. They tend to snag on the cloth inside on their way through. Do you find this happens? If not, it could be the way the bag is attached to my person, using a piece of rope looped around the bag in two places then around my waist with the bag positioned like yours. That said one of the guys I go roving mark shooting with has his attached the same way, which gave me the idea, and I haven't seen him with snagging problems... I do think that the bags weren't designed to be refilled on the fly, or even worn really. In action I believe they were just for storage, unloaded as needed, with the arrows stuck in the ground or into a belt, and certainly in combat I doubt archers would be stopping to thread arrows back into them slung around the small of their backs. If you're finding they don't snag much at all, I will sew on some belt loops and try hanging it from a belt as you do. Nice videos, keep up the good work, cheers, Steve.
Hi Steve. Yes, we all have exactly the same problem as you describe, and yes, I agree that bags weren't worn. It's likely they put the arrows through their belt, as there are many illustrations of them doing this. Bags were probably just for transport in carts.
Hi mate, thanks for the reply. It's comforting to know it's not just me ;) Since posting I've sewn on a couple of leather belt loops one near the bottom and one near the leather spacer but have found the best way to use the bag is as a belt quiver. hanging the bag off my belt behind my right side from the top belt loop only, tying off the bottom of the bag, and drawing the arrows feather end first. No problems using it like that.
Okey! Thank you a lot! My bow is standing in my room drying now. I'll try that when it's totally dry! Takes about 2 weeks. And yes, I'll tell you if it works good then! But do you know how to check if the wood is dry? Is it even possible?
I don't actually shoot that regularly. Perhaps a couple of times a month. The secret is in the technique, rather than in raw strength. It's all about using your bodyweight to push the bow away from you as you draw. I hope to make a video showing this technique when I get the time. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I don't mind at all mate. I really want you all to play around with it and make your own bags and have great fun doing it. That's really why I make these videos, to share the information I have gained over the years to help promote traditional archery and help those who perhaps don't have fellow archers living close by to learn from. Glad you found it useful. :)
Just wanted to compliment you English here, so correct, but so accesible for non native speakers at the same time. "Dynamic" of the video is pretty well balanced, too. We watch it, so do not stop making more!
Part 2, video 29 is just as wonderful as part 1!
excellent craftsmanship and great medieval paintings.
Good job, Nick. You are a very skilled craftsman and archer, I'm lucky you post your work on UA-cam. Keep it up!
Thank you. I have used my bag at a few roving shoots since making it and having the ability to choose which arrow I use by its head is a great feature. In battle this may have been very important.
It's cool bag. It's more medieval and authentic. I like the arrows do not fall when the bag open on both sides.
With the arrow spacer and video instruction I think I will do it
Konrad
That's beautiful Nick... Handstitched and all.. Very authentic..
God that was an amazing work I'm really impressed, thanks you for sharing this knowledge I remeber when first searched for a tutorial on the english arrow bag there was no result but now seems my search was completed, thank you sir.
Hello Sam. Good luck with your own arrow bag, and I'm glad you enjoyed my video.
Nice bag Nick. As I said in the other video, I made 2 this summer. After the experience from the first bag, I made the extra cloth in the two ends far longer than the first time. I ended up with a pretty long bag, but it fitts the arrows perfectly. I also made mine so I could carry it on my back while walking, and attatch it to my belt while shooting. I also used a machine on the folds, and then did the visible stiches by hand. Next time I'll make one, I'll probably borrow some of your ideas too
Hello Bear. Great to hear from you and I'm glad you found the video helpful. Best wishes mate.
Thank you so much for making these videos, I plan to make one myself, as soon as funds become available.
I just finished my first! i learned alot and a lot more bags will be made in the future. thank you for the wonderful video.
Hey Vincent! Hope you are well my friend. The binding is supporting a repair that was done to the bow a few years ago after the back started to split at a knot. Steve Stratton did an excellent repair on it and I could probably take the binding off now but I leave it on just for added security.
thanks :) it actually came out well and the muslin gives it a nice rustic look
Hey Nick,
Thank you for making these great videos! They have been so incredible helpful! I made an arrow bag using this method and it works great. For extra water protection I pre wax the linen. I did the same with my linen bow bags.
Very nice video. The tempo of your speech goes well with the scenes in the video, and it covers everything quite thoroughly. If I were to make one of these, I think I would start with the tube inside out, sew the seam together and then turn it right side out. That would eliminate one step for you and you could use a smaller seam allowance. Yours is the first video I've seen with the arrows drawn point first, but I like your thinking on why it could have been done that way. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos and share your work.
I make my own arrows although the heads are bought from a blacksmith. Glad you enjoyed the video.
great stuff, both the video and the details in the about section
Thanks so much for this video, I have now made two of these bags and they are great, I made a modification with the strapping so I can also wear it on my back or shoulder :-)
Thnx for the video!This way I have made my arrows bag!
Greeting from Hungary!
Thanks Konrad. Good luck with your own bag.
That sounds great mate. I am always keen to hear what designs others have come up with and if my video helps you make another bag then all my hard work has paid off and I am very pleased.
i love your diy arrow bag! your instructions are clear and easy to follow especially for beginners like me who can't sew to survive. I can't find any quiver or arrow bag that suit my taste in the market, of if there is, so out of my budget. So I've made myself one using your tutorial with some modification using pringles bottles :) thumbs up for your effort!
Man, you have some great sewing skills
very impressive mate, must say I am a big fan of the back stitch my self in general repairs, but I think I need to practice the invisible stitch (hidden stitch) the bag looks very well made and authentic, well done Nick!
A very interesting and well produced video. Thanks.
Sounds good. I will be interested to hear how you get on with it and whether it shoots a good distance. Joe is one of life's gifted freaks! :)
Preventing is always beter than letting it happen, good job! Yew is to precious to just leave it to the occasion. I am doing .. well lets just say I am getting better. My wrist is bending a little bit again and I have good hopes I can shoot again in a week or 5 - 6. Hope you are doing OK, your movies keep inspire me :) (and at this moment make me envy you of being able to shoot and I am not)
Hi
My father and I wrote and article
The Personal Carriage of Arrows from Hastings to the Mary Rose
By Jonathan Waller and John Waller
Arms & Armour, Volume 7, Number 2 (2010)
That covers the various ways that arrows were carried we did a lot of work on arrow bags, based upon research from various sources and also the work we have done with The Mary Rose.
Thanks for posting these videos.
JW
Maybe you could sew a wooden hoop beneath the leather circle so that it rests on the sewn circle. This would give you the support you want. Great job. Our quivers in the American southwest were made of leather and mostly of mountain lion skin. Since our arrowheads were made of flint, I'm trying to find out what we used at the bottom the quiver so that the arrow points did not cut into the skin and/or chip the points. My brother suggested that hunters would put a circle of buffalo skin at the bottom; this would keep the arrows from banging against one another, the thick hair would protect the points and protect the skin from being cut from the flint arrowheads.
Very interesting Christophe. Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
The Apache carved a wooden cup with a vertical handle or tail like a ladle to support their quiver and protect the quiver bottom.
Thanks for this mate, it's great. Cheers from Australia
Superb Video.
Drawing the point first seemed a bit odd for me when i saw it, but after your explanations it makes absolute sense to me.
I intend to build one myself, because I just bought a traditional Longbow fo fun shooting (normally I shoot FITA-Recurve) and like to keep the looks authentic.
thanks for the guide
Glad you like it mate. Best wishes.
Yeah nice idea Scott. I reckon they could.
Many thanks to you good sir. I will be making one of my own following your example. Cheers
That's really interesting to hear. Cheers for sharing.
Very smart design.
Excellent job !!! Really detailed video!!! Really really like it!!! :)
The sapwood back started to lift at a knot. Steve Stratton repaired it for me and the binding was just a precaution while the bow settled back in to being shot. That was years ago but I decided to leave it on for security and peace of mind.
Hi Nick, I'm very interested in making one of these as modern quiver designs really don't appeal to me. Really like the medieval looking stuff but I think I might design it as either a side or back quiver for practical club shooting. Hope to see more videos from you soon, they're really interesting and very well put together. Cheers G
You are very welcome mate. Glad you found the video useful.
I'm with you on the point first theory, it would be the only way you could differentiate between different head types while shooting from the quiver. Magyar & Cuman quivers were both point up orientation, presumably to make it easier to load the bow without accidentally spiking you or your horse.
beautiful work!
great build..thanks for sharing!
I agree that relying on art alone would not be ideal but remember that we do have the leather spacer disks from the Mary Rose. There was also a similar bag surviving in the 1700s but which has since been sadly lost. My guess is the arrows were bundled in sheaves of 24, with the spacer, and packed in barrels. Individual sheaves would be given to the archers who would slot them into an empty bag of very simple design perhaps? Nice comment and thanks for posting.
Indeed this is something that needs to be considered, As we mention in the article ;) with a spacer any form barb on the head makes it impossible to draw them back out so they have to be drawn from the point. If we consider that war arrows are one shot ammunition, then any effect on the fletching is of little concern...
Yes it is a Poletti bow, made for me back in 2008. A couple of years ago the lower limb cracked and lifted at a knot in the sapwood so I had a different bowyer repair it. The binding was a temporary measure until the bow settled back in but I leave it on as an insurance against it reccuring.
That makes pretty good sense drawing the arrow point first. Even though you demonstrate it at a speed that most current experienced archers could easily replicate, I would imagine a combat archer from the Medieval period would have no problem reloading this way much quicker. I think what most people don't think of is that soldiers will find a way to do things that will work for them individually, even in modern armies where you're 'supposed' to have a standard way, you still see soldiers exercise their unique ways and it works for them. It's quite possible that not all archers of the Hundred Years War carried and reloaded the same way although there probably was a generally accepted method as evidenced by the historical artifacts found. That's very interesting though, I hadn't even though about a 'pass through' quiver as shown in your vid. It looks effective and makes good, simple sense.
Hi Jazzman. Great comment mate, and glad you enjoyed the video. Experimental archaeology is great for this kind of thing. Not only do we read the sources, but we build their equipment as accurately as possible and put it into use year-round, so we soon get a good idea whether it would have worked or not. I agree that the guys back then would certainly have tailored their kit and technique as they became more seasoned on campaign. Oh to have been a fly on the wall back then! :)
Thank you for that excelent tutorial!
Yes there is a difference. The arrow bag seems to have been used in the medieval period to carry 24 arrows in a cloth bag with a leather spacer to stop the fletchings being crushed. They could be opened at either end with a drawstring. They may have been carried and used at the belt but most illustrations show them being used for transporting arrows only. The quiver is a leather tube that came in much later, open at the top only, designed to hold arrows at the waist for immediate use.
Hi. There isn't a great deal of information about arrow bags or quivers from the medieval period, but it seems that back quivers and leather side quivers like we use today were certainly later. I don't know why, but a cloth bag around the waist could be opened at both ends which would allow the archer to see the arrow heads and chose the type he needed quickly. More often in battle arrows were simply stuck in the ground at their feet though, rather than held in any kind of bag/quiver.
Thank you! Glad you like it.
Truly interesting build. Is there any historical record of pine needles or felt pads being filled within to prevent arrowheads from puncturing out to the other end? I would be little concerned of that happening however thick the linen used may be, especially while carrying razor sharp broadhead arrows. Thanks
I can't put my hand on any sources, however I think it likely the bags were reinforced in some way at the bottom.
I put a bundled up cloth or piece of wool if I am.worried enough.and.just.put it in there
Well I am just be a stupid yank from across the pond, but that is one sweet arrow bag. I am going to make one alittle smaller as I dont have a sweet warbow to play with, just a simple recurve. Thanks for the Vid.
Thanks. I'm glad you like them. I am planning to do more but during the summer my group does so many public displays that I don't get much time to film and edit something new. The first part of my new series on how to make a self yew bow is coming along nicely though and should be uploaded soon. Sorry for the delay.
Thank You so much for posting this guide, it made the job of making my arrow bag painless, good clear instructions and pictures! Although I bought an arrow spacer ready made, I did the rest as per. Only difference was I used a plaited leather thong instead of the cord you used but when I added the aiglets I must say it looks the business, really medieval. Once again, Thanks, and BTW are you posting any new vids soon?
Cheers, Norm.
Very good job! Greatings from Italy!! ;)
Good luck with the muslin Matt. eBay is also a good place to look for fabric.
Yeah I think it was. It seems to work quite well.
Really intresting arrow bag and nice illustration and instructions while makeing it. im so going to try this a tad later on as im shooting a longbow thou not at thoose pounds =)
I guess it would depend on the type of bow and what poundage you make it. If you are making something low in poundage then yes it might help, but only for a "play around" bow, somthing you shoot in your garden etc. I doubt whether it would work on a proper bow but if you have a go and get good results then I would love to hear about it.
Thanks Greg. Many more videos on their way mate!
Yes that's correct Andreas, the ship was Henry VIII's flagship and she went down in 1545. I have often wondered whether wood could also be used for the spacer disk, and some people following my pattern have used wood instead and it seems to work well.
that is some nice needle work :)
By the way, remember I told you in some comment I was getting my first warbow this summer? Well I did:D at first it was 105pounds at 32, then when the wood setteled, it came to 100 as i ordered. Brute looking wych elm made by Daniel Taralrud (guy who made the mad 210 pound bow for Joe)
Much appreciation!!! Well done, got a new subscriber
pretty amazing, nick. thank you for the video. :-)
Hi I have watched both of your videos, and found them great in the first one you though that the added v cut to the arrow slot holes were for brawdheads, but watching your demo at the end of the 2 nd video you draw the arrow from the bottom of the bag this would explain why the v cut it would not strip the fletchings this way, I am now going to try to make this thanks for your time in the videos keep up with your tips
Thanks for your comments John, and glad you enjoyed the videos. Good luck with your own bag.
Hi Nick, I have an idea why the triangular slits are for. The idea of being used to accommodate "broad heads" is rather based on speculation, isn't it? You also found that broadheads could be inserted without those. What if the slits had a different function. What if the holes were in fact 1-2 mm smaller than the actual arrow diameter and those slits had the actual purpose to prevent the shafts/arrows from slipping out. I don't know how to put it better - but I guess you understand what I am saying. Great videos, thanks for sharing!
Great idea Jean-Luc, and certainly possible. Remember however that it is also possible the arrows were pulled from the botton of the bag, so the fletchings would have to go through that hole as well. That's what makes history so interesting; the sharing of ideas and practical experimentation.
To me it makes more sense (especially as you had experienced that the arrows could sit tighter) than the "broad head theory. Bodkin heads were much more common if I am not mistaken. Like nowadays, they would have needed another solution for actual broad heads. I may even try it in a different design, as my specialty is not actually historical stuff. But you know, outside the box input is good but never even in a box is even better :) Cheers!
I buy most of my material from Bernie the Bolt who is based in Cambridgeshire. He can be seen at all major reenactment events and historical trade fairs in the UK. If he isn't there then there is always at least one other fabric trader on site.
This would work well for modern usage too. You could use oilskin/ tin cloth. It would keep your shafts dry in the bush, really well.
great work nice sowing
Hello. I'm sorry, I don't speak Spanish but I used Google translate and I believe the fletching is cutting your finger when you shoot. If that is the case then you have your nocking point on the string too low. Raise the nocking point by about 1cm and try again. The arrow should lift over your finger so that the feathers do not cut any more. If they still cut then raise it again. I hope you understand my message and my advice helps.
Wow, great video. I drew up a few designs that I derived from your bag. I hope you don't mind. Thanks for the very educational and detailed video :)
Hi,
have thought about using a wooden arrowspacer? I forgot where I read about it, but there the arrow bag was described as an wooden frame covered with fabric.
Very cool videos by the way :-) Keep it on.
Regards
Skullpainting I used to have a bag similar to mine but with a wicker frame inside. It worked really well.
In response to point 2 in the description, I had the same thought but have opted to make the bag as long as the longest arrow needs, and simply roll the bottom up and tie it off higher when using shorter arrows, and tie it off lower down when using la longue ones.
Nice one Tom. Yes, that works just as well. Enjoy your archery and I hope your bag gives you years of good service.
Great video, really enjoyed it :D
Yes I would guess that using a good glue would help. As for checking whether a bow is dry or not, the only way I know of is to use a wood moisture meter. They aren't very expensive.
Great job. Greetings from germany
Nice ending.
good job man...
I tried to ducttape back the bow. It worked great on the first day, but when the bow stood in my room for 1 night the ducttape started to get loose. I guess it would work if you put it on with glue or something that holds it there.
Yeah maybe. Nice theory. I do mention something similar in the video details box too.
Thank you for the video. It's great. I would like to know how often do you train or shoot to be able to use such a powerful bow.
Great piece!
I wonder if the slits in the holes were there to allow for shrinkage of the leather. or even the taper of the arrow. First theory shrinkage, if you got your arrow bag wet the leather would theoretically shrink when it dried if the holes were snug it could grip your arrows tight enough you wouldn't be able to draw them. Second theory for tapered arrows the hole would allow the arrow to be held snugly yet still allow the larger nock end to pass through the hole. Not sure just what came to mind.
Do you think they treated the linen with anything like lanolin perhaps, in order to weather proof the bag in rainy weather?
Thanks, no worries and I understand, just wonder sometimes when things disappear in to the ether.... ;)
This is AWESOME. My only question is, if you're a right-handed bowman (as most are) how would having the arrowheads at your left hip make sense? Shouldn't they be on the right, where an archer has his most sensitive touch, and of course his best ability to draw? I'm genuinely curious and not at all critical.
I bought them off ebay from a store called Stuff Etc UK. They only cost a few quid. I don't think they are trading any more though as a quick search couldn't find them today.
Yes don't worry, they were received. Unfortunately I have to approve all comments to filter out the abuse and childish arguements and name calling that seems to be common practise on UA-cam, and I only have time to do this once a week. Many thanks for your comments.
If you draw with your right then you would turn the bag round so the arrowheads were on the right. The bag can be worn either way :)
The V cut out are not common to the spacers, if one can say that about the limited number that have been found. The thing with the spacers with out them is it will only allow heads of a certain size to be pushed through, the article my father an I wrote on arrow carriage. The v notches allow larger heads to be pushed through.
Thank you for the video
Hi mate, I've just made an arrow bag of pretty much the same design as yours to hold 32" medieval style arrows. One problem I'm finding when worn set up to draw the arrows through point first is that replacing the arrows into the bag after the shot is a very hit or miss affair. They tend to snag on the cloth inside on their way through. Do you find this happens? If not, it could be the way the bag is attached to my person, using a piece of rope looped around the bag in two places then around my waist with the bag positioned like yours. That said one of the guys I go roving mark shooting with has his attached the same way, which gave me the idea, and I haven't seen him with snagging problems... I do think that the bags weren't designed to be refilled on the fly, or even worn really. In action I believe they were just for storage, unloaded as needed, with the arrows stuck in the ground or into a belt, and certainly in combat I doubt archers would be stopping to thread arrows back into them slung around the small of their backs. If you're finding they don't snag much at all, I will sew on some belt loops and try hanging it from a belt as you do. Nice videos, keep up the good work, cheers, Steve.
Hi Steve. Yes, we all have exactly the same problem as you describe, and yes, I agree that bags weren't worn. It's likely they put the arrows through their belt, as there are many illustrations of them doing this. Bags were probably just for transport in carts.
Hi mate, thanks for the reply. It's comforting to know it's not just me ;) Since posting I've sewn on a couple of leather belt loops one near the bottom and one near the leather spacer but have found the best way to use the bag is as a belt quiver. hanging the bag off my belt behind my right side from the top belt loop only, tying off the bottom of the bag, and drawing the arrows feather end first. No problems using it like that.
Okey! Thank you a lot! My bow is standing in my room drying now. I'll try that when it's totally dry! Takes about 2 weeks. And yes, I'll tell you if it works good then! But do you know how to check if the wood is dry? Is it even possible?
nice video, cheers from germany ^^