@@nationalmuzzleloadingrifle8871 Thanks! Your series kind of makes me wish I had taken more time to document the build. Incidentally, keep the content coming! I've been burning through your podcasts and UA-cam videos.
I just did the whiskering process twice, and the stock still looks the same. It did feel kind of rough after the heat gun. Was that rough feel the whiskers?
It shore is a great project. My son and I have been working on the hawking for about a month now. I let my daughter stain the stock today. I'm so thankful for these videos. I'm gone do the Kentucky one next. I'm hooked
I am really enjoying this series. You my friend are to humble when it comes to wood. Newbies don’t have pattern vises. I could not see if yours was an original Emmet or a clone as it it had some patina on it. You call it whiskering. In the industry we call it simply raising the grain. As you move up in sandpaper grit, the paper cuts less and burnishes more. This causes a micro fiber surface compression. You also get fine dust packing into the grain. More so on open grain woods less so on closed grain woods. Beech is a closed grain wood for the most part. The water causes the compressed fibers to expand and stand up. As the industry seeks more water based finishes, this issue becomes more of an issue. Aquafortis may be super old school but it is water based so you should raise the grain two or three times if using it or a water based stain. Lastly, the cab scraper cuts with the action of a plane unlike sandpaper. You need to practice good edge management and maintain the burr. But the surface is super fine but not burnished. A burnished surface by its definition is a compressed surface so irregularities in stain are a real concern. Uneven burnishing can lead to splotching. So using the card scraper prior to finish is good idea. Also avoid using excessive elbow grease with fine paper at this stage. Personally I would not use sandpaper at the end to mitigate risk of splotching. Personally I prefer the older oil based stains over water based stains cuz I have not had the best results with water based stains.
Excellent. When I built my hawken, I didn't have a heat gun, and so did my whiskering over the kitchen stove. I cannot wait to see your completed gun.
@@nationalmuzzleloadingrifle8871 Thanks! Your series kind of makes me wish I had taken more time to document the build. Incidentally, keep the content coming! I've been burning through your podcasts and UA-cam videos.
I just did the whiskering process twice, and the stock still looks the same. It did feel kind of rough after the heat gun. Was that rough feel the whiskers?
@@jasonburrell3508 that was my experience. It didn't look much different, but you could feel it.
I felt the whiskers after the heat gun. I understand now. This video helped me.
It shore is a great project. My son and I have been working on the hawking for about a month now. I let my daughter stain the stock today. I'm so thankful for these videos. I'm gone do the Kentucky one next. I'm hooked
I am really enjoying this series. You my friend are to humble when it comes to wood. Newbies don’t have pattern vises. I could not see if yours was an original Emmet or a clone as it it had some patina on it.
You call it whiskering. In the industry we call it simply raising the grain. As you move up in sandpaper grit, the paper cuts less and burnishes more. This causes a micro fiber surface compression. You also get fine dust packing into the grain. More so on open grain woods less so on closed grain woods. Beech is a closed grain wood for the most part. The water causes the compressed fibers to expand and stand up.
As the industry seeks more water based finishes, this issue becomes more of an issue. Aquafortis may be super old school but it is water based so you should raise the grain two or three times if using it or a water based stain.
Lastly, the cab scraper cuts with the action of a plane unlike sandpaper. You need to practice good edge management and maintain the burr. But the surface is super fine but not burnished. A burnished surface by its definition is a compressed surface so irregularities in stain are a real concern. Uneven burnishing can lead to splotching.
So using the card scraper prior to finish is good idea. Also avoid using excessive elbow grease with fine paper at this stage. Personally I would not use sandpaper at the end to mitigate risk of splotching. Personally I prefer the older oil based stains over water based stains cuz I have not had the best results with water based stains.
Very helpful!!!Building a Pedersoli Scout 50 Flintlock.
I cant wait for my kit to come in
Oh i got it mid January it came out pretty good for my first muzzleloader
Wish those were still available. Everywhere I look .out of stock no back order
Nice job. I'm still looking for that .32 flintlock
Man I want to get one of these kits.
I sand the buttstock with the buttplate attached. This ensures a perfect match wood to metal.
It sure looks like mapel to me.