The Best Oil Paints For Beginners | Oil Painting Crash Course Part 1
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2024
- The best oil paints for complete beginners. How to choose the right kind of oil paint for your needs. I offer a complete oil painting palette for beginner's and the ideal palette that I would suggest you work towards for a long term solution. First part of a series: the complete guide to classical oil painting for beginners.
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Really helpful video, most people just recommend the high end stuff but liked how you also gave a cheaper alternative.
Glad you liked it!!
Great
Thanks
Happy to help, thank you so much!!
Higher quality paints seem to go a lot further and end up working out cheaper in the long run. I really like Vasari and Rublev oils. As long as you have a red, yellow, white, blue (or black), you can mix a wide range of colors.
I ended up buying four tubes of Rembrandt by Royal Talens. Supposedly a good paint, but it's fine if it isn't. My goal it to make my own paint eventually. One thing that disappointed me was that I could not find Mars Black anywhere. Every store I go to, every brand is sold out. They have lamp black but not Mars. So I got ultramarine instead. Not ideal but since I'm interested in the tonal palette as well I can make it work. Thanks for making videos!
Buy some stearic acid or aluminum stearate, melt some of this into linseed oil, and there you have a good binder to make any oil paint you want. I use stearic acid, from which i can make any type of steareate i want even lead stearate or sodium stearate to use as drier or stabilizer. Its not that complicated to make good oil paint.
There is nothing wrong with ultramarine blue. Actually if you get that, and burnt umber, you can make a chromatic black, that is much more useful than mars black, or any black for that matter, as you can make a very nice black, but also use each color for other uses. If you thrown in raw sienna. you can make a black that so closely approximates real ivory black (made from actual ivory- not the bone black presently sold under than name), that it is indistinguishable. Making one's own paint is of great value, as many lessons will be learned, which I won't bore you with, but at a certain point, one can get so caught up in making their own materials, that they devote a great amount of time to it, and this can take away from valuable time for painting. I think it is a process though, and is super helpful. It is one that has taken me back full circle to simply buying a good tube of paint, but I wouldn't have wanted to miss the process.
how about permanent rose(PV19) or permanent alizarin crimson(pr177)?
I was lucky enough to be able to use old holland for my classes, honestly I’ll take Gamblin over old holland any day!!!
why?
Yes, making my own paint years ago, and testing every brand possible (even very old ones-no longer available) for pigment load, I have come to view Old Holland as over priced, and based on materials they allegedly use, not optimal regarding working properties. There are a lot of artists who believe if they use the most expensive paints on the planet, their work will be better, and this is simply not true. Gamblin makes a decent product.
@@fabrizio483the texture is like soft butter where I find O.H. many colors are quite dry and need a lot of oil to get smooth butter consistency(which adding so much to O.H. makes it rather thin and not cover well). The price difference really isn’t that much for the colors I use, and I can find them easier locally than having to wait for shipping and pay additional costs.
@@jimcortez3293 having started with O.H. and hating the results, the paint boogers within hours, drove me insane. I would love to try Michael Harding paints as I’ve read and heard so many great reviews, but who gets paid to say it and who doesn’t these days??? I tried gamblin for non school work and loved its consistency right out of the tube. I didn’t need tons of oil to make it work for me either. I think Gamblin has a really good product for the price.
Hi, Nic -- very helpful video (all of your videos, really)
Have you ever experienced white haze / efflorescence developing on the surface of paintings or studies made with Gamblin or "W&N Artist's" paints?
For Gamblin, I am looking at buying the Mars Black, but also their Indian Red PR101 and Venetian Red PR101 (as well as eyeing their Ultramarine). For W&N Artist's: their Bright Red PR254.
Are either of these brands adequate quality for professional commissions?
Thanks for any insight you may have, or experiences you could share.
Cheers!
Nic how can I contact you I'm very interested to learn all kitsch paintings and how can I get a book of you're paintings or nerdrum's paintings?
I hope to respond my message .
I sent you another message from other video that you did it .
Best regards master!
Hope you reply me
they add chemicals to extend the shelf life
What do you want a paint that die quickly? Odd nedrum students are funny, they dont even not how to make hide glue and think they know something, nothing but a bunch of amateurs.
Mars black will NOT produce the blue color depicted on this palette. There is no good reason to hamstring oneself, and not to have a blue on the palette, and the most useful is ultramarine blue. If one is going to use Winsor and Newton, get the artist grade, as the Winton (student) line is full of filler, and has less pigment. It has a Vaseline texture. whereas the artist grade is decent paint. Old Holland is alright, as is Williamsburg, but in my most unhumble opinion, the best bang for your buck is the Utrecht line, which is ground in linseed oil, and has a great pigment load. Some paints take longer to dry, because they are ground in safflower oil, or walnut, or Blockx which is poppy seed oil. Really though, nothing supersede linseed oil, for durability, and general performance. So, although people may be students, and just starting out, it is still important to do as any craftsman does when starting out, get the best tools possible. If you are rolling in it, yes get Old Holland, Williamsburg, Harding, Vasari, etc., if you want a good quality paint, but have limited funds, get something like WN artist grade, or again Utrecht, or Talen's Rembrandt.
All brands even higher brands that make oil paint use some kinda os metalic soaps or other kind of stabilizer to make their oil paint. Adding stearates doesnt make the paint dry slow. Its the quality of the oil that is using as a binder that can make the paint dry slow or fast. Its almost impossible to make good oil paint using only regular linseed oil.
Actually it is possible, but takes more work. If you want to see a good paint, it should be pigment in linseed oil, mulled to the perfection of a smooth texture, so that when you open a tube, oil runs out. Open a tube, and no oil is present, it generally has filler, and for me, is of a quality that I simply put back. Who wants to paint and wrestle with colored Vaseline? There are some hugely overpriced paints, that contain hydrogenated oils, that make them appear all thick and pigmented like, when in fact they are thick not from the pigment load, but from the hydrogenated oil.
@@jimcortez3293 Old masters already use metalic soaps in their oil paint binder and emulsions, they just didn't have what we call today stearic acid to make the stearates, but they use render animal fat to produce their own "stearates". People thinking sterates are bad, just dont know a thing about paint making.