THOSE LITHIUMS BMS BUILDING AND INSTALLATION ARE A SUCCES . RUNNING YOUR SYSTEM FOR !ST TIME ON LIPOFE4 IS WONDERFUL . I CANT WAIT TO GET MORE LIPOFE4 FOR MY AIMS IN THE FUTURE . KEEP THE GOOD THING GOING .
That is a lot of bms to get to get along with each other. I love watching the current flow from one into the other depending on which one is full first.
@@offgridwanabe mine topically balances per my parameters. It hasn't had to do much balancing since the top balance. 5 minutes or so and they're all in balance
On ANL fuses: several manufacturers and suppliers, including Windy Nation, have ANL fuses and holders that'll handle 48VDC easily. Windy Nation's fuse holders are rated for 250VDC and fuses are rated for 72VDC. The interruption current is sufficient for any reasonable battery bank, though I don't have those numbers in front of me right now. I'd not use 'em for a capacitor bank.
Yea, I did some research and BUSS makes ANL fuses that very reliable and robust. I didn't trust the ANL fuses I received. They looked like cheap Chinese junk. The holders are awesome though. Hah. Interruption ratings are important in the case of a dead short. This battery bank could easily dump several thousand amps on a short and those ANL fuses I had didnt give me warm fuzzy feelings. Lol windy nation has good stuff! Ive ordered some MC4 cable extensions and they're quality!
Love the set up, the LCDs definitely makes it easy to monitor! I was wondering about those fuses previously, glad you went with correct fuses. Although all those metal on the rack makes me nervous being so close to the wires and terminals lol. It does make everything more compact though. kilowatthour.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 US $12.32 12%OFF | for Ant Protection Board Waterproof LCD Display Screen Case Shell Outside Outer Frame Casing 24S 32S BMS Case Black External Box a.aliexpress.com/_d7Li4tk
OMGoodness you have done all the work for us. Cannot thank you enough! Amazing stuff for a newbie DIY'r. QUESTION: On that inverter (Aims?) what battery type setting do you have it set to? I have no lithium setting on my Aims inverter. Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! There is a LiFePO4 setting on this charger, but it is for 8S so I monitor it while charging. You can look at the charge cycles of the battery types you do have and see if any of the voltages match up. Typically sealed/agm settings line up fairly well.
Nice job! The BMS's are all connected to a busbar? The cable staples on the wall, where did you get those? You should cover the shelves with silicone or rubber mats to prevent a mishap when manipulating the cabling.
Correct, all of the batteries are paralleled to a busbar but each battery string has an independent BMS before the parallel connection, so all current flowing in or out of each of the five strings is monitored. I gotra get some mats and do that, I dont like the metal everywhere either.
You bet. m.aliexpress.com/item/32997552090.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0n.shopcart.0.d3.20adgGh2gGh2FK&gps-id=shopcartRecommend&scm=1007.15372.165446.0&scm_id=1007.15372.165446.0&scm-url=1007.15372.165446.0&pvid=114634b7-9124-4baa-93a5-42373a8e8137&_t=gps-id:shopcartRecommend,scm-url:1007.15372.165446.0,pvid:114634b7-9124-4baa-93a5-42373a8e8137
There was no arcing because I put the individual batteries in parallel before I did my series connections and connections to the busbar. There may have been a few hundred milliamps moving for a few seconds but that's it.
I did have two batteries about half a volt off from one another and tried paralleling them with a multimeter in between (you know, for science) and it shot to about 50 amps so I quickly disconnected it. It still didnt arc though.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Yea its that super high amperage, that even at low voltage gets very interesting (like welding) when you start adding your packs to the busbar. You skipped it in the video so I wondered about your experience.
That's way, way better than the ANL kits I bought..... I looked on a few websites and couldnt find any higher voltage ANL fuses so just gave up and went with the class T replacements I showed. What was the cost for the Bussman ANL's youre using? I am constantly being taught stuff by the viewers on here, thank you! Edit: which style do you think is better? Why?
These? I'm not sure if a 2,700 amp interruprion rating would be enough for these batteries. Theyre rated for a 600 amp pulse, so I'm guessing a dead short would push those ANL's to the limit if not exceed it. What are your thoughts? powerwerx.com/eaton-bussman-anl-fuses?*New%20-%20Fuses%20%26%20Circuit%20Protection&Margin%2040-49%25
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Yes, those are the ones. I got them on eBay for $5 each because I bought a box of 5. There are also listings for the $10 and $15 each range. You could also use ANN fuses, same form factor but faster acting. I guess Bussmann got bought a couple times because they also pop up under Cooper and Eaton. Bussmann is UL listed also. Most of the auto kits are crappy chinese fuses.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Yeah, there are fake ones out there but if you get them from a reputable source, you should be good to go. Buss stamps their name on one side of the metal contact, might miss that unless you look for it.
@@briandavis9975 it could have been done cheaper, but working with the batteries I had it wasn't overly expensive. If I looked for cheaper cells I likely would have been stuck with heavily degraded stuff that would be a nightmare to keep in balance.
What link did you have to download? I'm not having any luck with mine. Also did you use the black and red wire for the lcd screen before you connect the screen
diysolarforum.com/threads/72-bluetooth-ant-bms-software.3973/ I turned the BMS on with the red and black wires on a li-ion cell before I connected the screen. After I knew it was working I shut it off and connected the 4 wire connector to the screen then connected the red and black SCREEN wires, then turned the BMS on again. Let me know if this helps!
Hi, where did you get your class T fuses.. It's really hard to find the holders, I did learn there are so many different sizes of the Class T, I figured out the ones that look like yours are the A3T I think they are good for 300V ...next ones are a bit longer ( A6T ) and good for 600V I could not find out if that was for DC, but i usually am told that what ever rating you see is usually an AC rating, and that DC is usually half of what the AC rating is. So an A3T is probably good for just 150VDC
I got mine on Amazon, theyre 160v dc. I had an extremely difficult time finding holders as well, so I designed the mounts and 3d printed them lol. Do you have a 3d printer?
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 - Indeed. It's kinda between the lines in this design document, which is excellent. Such a great read. My jaw dropped a few times at how much better these batteries are than I expected. formula-hybrid.org/wp-content/uploads/A123_AMP20_battery_Design_guide.pdf And, yes I hope to never need to replace any fuses anywhere.
Where are you referring to? There are fuses on each battery string and between the inverter and battery busbar. Yea, it ends up being just shy of 12kwh of actual available energy out of the inverter. Upgrades are in the works! Thanks for watching!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 The inverter should be isolated with a DC disconnect close to the inverter. This is in addition to the fuses your are using with the batteries. This isolation will eliminate any arcing if and when the capacitors are charged or discharged when the batteries are being connected, cables being connected or any fuse is being replaced. The caps can also give you quite a zap if you are no paying attention.
That seems totally plausible. I trust these BMS's to about 60 amps. I don't think this system has seen more than about 30 amps at the inverter so these BMS's are not even struggling lol. Project overkill was such an appropriate name. Thanks for watching!
I bought the 320 amp version. Mine came with 4 12 gauge wires on both sides. I dont think the smaller ones have quite as many wires but I could be wrong. I went with the buy once, cry once mentality and so far they have been working very well. Overall these are very cheap modules compared to batrium or something similar.
Why are you adding power to red and black wires to turn on the bms? There ia supposed to be a momentary switch on them. All you have to do is touch them together. 2 one second touches to turn on and one 10 second touch to turn off.
Would you give it a try for me? I have some like the ones you have as well that I havent hooked up yet but the 5 that I have hooked all turned on and off the way I described
I would, but all of my wires are soldered together and installed already. If I get a new come down the road I will give it a shot. Yours may be a different style, I have seen a lot of the "ANT-BMS's" turned on with a lithium battery
THOSE LITHIUMS BMS BUILDING AND INSTALLATION ARE A SUCCES . RUNNING YOUR SYSTEM FOR !ST TIME ON LIPOFE4 IS WONDERFUL . I CANT WAIT TO GET MORE LIPOFE4 FOR MY AIMS IN THE FUTURE . KEEP THE GOOD THING GOING .
It is definitely always a temptation to keep expanding! Thanks for watching!
Nice BMS especially wit the big LCD display, that comes very handy and so does the bluetooth app as well, thanks for sharing man, cheers
Thanks for watching!
Nice work, very clean system and great decision going with the HRC fuses :)
Thanks! If the worst case scenario happens I definitely want that current to STOP!
That is a lot of bms to get to get along with each other. I love watching the current flow from one into the other depending on which one is full first.
Its crazy how it does that. I noticed mine doing that and also doing some weird mosfet action on the discharge when it gets to the release voltage.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Have you noticed it only balances when charging under 15 amps
@@offgridwanabe mine topically balances per my parameters. It hasn't had to do much balancing since the top balance. 5 minutes or so and they're all in balance
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Lucky you those are good batteries the old 26650's I use require more balancing
How long does your setup balance?
looks just awesome! ;) great system
I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 new diy channels always gives new ideas for my system ;)
It's becoming very affordable to build small backup solar generators. What a time to be a battery nerd! 😂
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 yup :D
Nice Good job man!
Thank you!
On ANL fuses: several manufacturers and suppliers, including Windy Nation, have ANL fuses and holders that'll handle 48VDC easily. Windy Nation's fuse holders are rated for 250VDC and fuses are rated for 72VDC. The interruption current is sufficient for any reasonable battery bank, though I don't have those numbers in front of me right now. I'd not use 'em for a capacitor bank.
Yea, I did some research and BUSS makes ANL fuses that very reliable and robust. I didn't trust the ANL fuses I received. They looked like cheap Chinese junk. The holders are awesome though. Hah. Interruption ratings are important in the case of a dead short. This battery bank could easily dump several thousand amps on a short and those ANL fuses I had didnt give me warm fuzzy feelings. Lol windy nation has good stuff! Ive ordered some MC4 cable extensions and they're quality!
Love the set up, the LCDs definitely makes it easy to monitor! I was wondering about those fuses previously, glad you went with correct fuses. Although all those metal on the rack makes me nervous being so close to the wires and terminals lol. It does make everything more compact though. kilowatthour.
Thanks! I don't like the metal rack either, I will probably end up trying to enclose/insulate things as much as possible.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I have the same BMS and LCD screen... So I bought this
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 US $12.32 12%OFF | for Ant Protection Board Waterproof LCD Display Screen Case Shell Outside Outer Frame Casing 24S 32S BMS Case Black External Box
a.aliexpress.com/_d7Li4tk
Nice video and good work
Thanks friend!
Nice work!
Thank you!
OMGoodness you have done all the work for us. Cannot thank you enough! Amazing stuff for a newbie DIY'r. QUESTION: On that inverter (Aims?) what battery type setting do you have it set to? I have no lithium setting on my Aims inverter. Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! There is a LiFePO4 setting on this charger, but it is for 8S so I monitor it while charging. You can look at the charge cycles of the battery types you do have and see if any of the voltages match up. Typically sealed/agm settings line up fairly well.
Nice job! The BMS's are all connected to a busbar? The cable staples on the wall, where did you get those?
You should cover the shelves with silicone or rubber mats to prevent a mishap when manipulating the cabling.
Correct, all of the batteries are paralleled to a busbar but each battery string has an independent BMS before the parallel connection, so all current flowing in or out of each of the five strings is monitored. I gotra get some mats and do that, I dont like the metal everywhere either.
Which cable staples? The ones that the metal conduit was held on with or the ones that the 3/0wire was held on with
Would you provide a link to those BMS? Thank you.
You bet. m.aliexpress.com/item/32997552090.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0n.shopcart.0.d3.20adgGh2gGh2FK&gps-id=shopcartRecommend&scm=1007.15372.165446.0&scm_id=1007.15372.165446.0&scm-url=1007.15372.165446.0&pvid=114634b7-9124-4baa-93a5-42373a8e8137&_t=gps-id:shopcartRecommend,scm-url:1007.15372.165446.0,pvid:114634b7-9124-4baa-93a5-42373a8e8137
Thanks. Came for the same thing. I got one of the same units from Battery Hookup. Thank you for your service!
My Father-in-Law is a veteran. I will pass on your appreciation!
Impressive!👍👍
Thank you!
Wouldn't the bar fuses be ok if you put one on each battery or pair of batteries?
What do you mean by bar fuses? Thanks for watching!
When you hooked the batteries to the common bus bar, how much arcing did you see or did you have your packs perfectly matched?
There was no arcing because I put the individual batteries in parallel before I did my series connections and connections to the busbar. There may have been a few hundred milliamps moving for a few seconds but that's it.
I did have two batteries about half a volt off from one another and tried paralleling them with a multimeter in between (you know, for science) and it shot to about 50 amps so I quickly disconnected it. It still didnt arc though.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Yea its that super high amperage, that even at low voltage gets very interesting (like welding) when you start adding your packs to the busbar. You skipped it in the video so I wondered about your experience.
Thanks for the comment! It'll keep me thinking about possible info for future builds to include in the videos
I am using Bussmann ANL fuses. According to the datasheet, they are rated for up to 80VDC and an interruption current of 2,700A DC.
That's way, way better than the ANL kits I bought..... I looked on a few websites and couldnt find any higher voltage ANL fuses so just gave up and went with the class T replacements I showed. What was the cost for the Bussman ANL's youre using? I am constantly being taught stuff by the viewers on here, thank you!
Edit: which style do you think is better? Why?
These? I'm not sure if a 2,700 amp interruprion rating would be enough for these batteries. Theyre rated for a 600 amp pulse, so I'm guessing a dead short would push those ANL's to the limit if not exceed it. What are your thoughts? powerwerx.com/eaton-bussman-anl-fuses?*New%20-%20Fuses%20%26%20Circuit%20Protection&Margin%2040-49%25
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Yes, those are the ones. I got them on eBay for $5 each because I bought a box of 5. There are also listings for the $10 and $15 each range. You could also use ANN fuses, same form factor but faster acting. I guess Bussmann got bought a couple times because they also pop up under Cooper and Eaton. Bussmann is UL listed also. Most of the auto kits are crappy chinese fuses.
Yea, I didnt see a name brand on these fuses so I don't trust them lol. Thank you for the info!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Yeah, there are fake ones out there but if you get them from a reputable source, you should be good to go. Buss stamps their name on one side of the metal contact, might miss that unless you look for it.
I like the video, thumbs up.
Thank you!
Great build so how much are you into the whole project cost wise?
Spitball numbers would put it around $3200 or so.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 wow that's a great price for what you have there well done.
@@briandavis9975 it could have been done cheaper, but working with the batteries I had it wasn't overly expensive. If I looked for cheaper cells I likely would have been stuck with heavily degraded stuff that would be a nightmare to keep in balance.
What link did you have to download?
I'm not having any luck with mine.
Also did you use the black and red wire for the lcd screen before you connect the screen
diysolarforum.com/threads/72-bluetooth-ant-bms-software.3973/
I turned the BMS on with the red and black wires on a li-ion cell before I connected the screen. After I knew it was working I shut it off and connected the 4 wire connector to the screen then connected the red and black SCREEN wires, then turned the BMS on again. Let me know if this helps!
That link worked just want to say thanks👍👍
Excellent! Glad it helped.
Hi, where did you get your class T fuses.. It's really hard to find the holders, I did learn there are so many different sizes of the Class T, I figured out the ones that look like yours are the A3T I think they are good for 300V ...next ones are a bit longer ( A6T ) and good for 600V I could not find out if that was for DC, but i usually am told that what ever rating you see is usually an AC rating, and that DC is usually half of what the AC rating is. So an A3T is probably good for just 150VDC
I got mine on Amazon, theyre 160v dc. I had an extremely difficult time finding holders as well, so I designed the mounts and 3d printed them lol. Do you have a 3d printer?
www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0E84E7?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 No i do not,, But i think i found me a 3 place holder that will work.. even comes with the fuses.. 3x 100A
Excellent! Glad to hear you found a resolution.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I made a nice score this weekend,, 19x 295W panels for $150 each, and localish too, 2 hr drive.
I have the same BMS 16S ANTI but seller never sent me the Zip-File with the APK-Code ! So I’m unable to set is used 15 Qty if 3.2v batteries !
What is your email address? Ill send you the files I have.
13:18 - the batteries also have built in fuse(s) that should trip at 1800A. Not sure how that will play into the 20kA interrupt rating on those fuses.
Really? I did not know that. Thank you for sharing. Hopefully neither are ever needed 😉
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 - Indeed. It's kinda between the lines in this design document, which is excellent. Such a great read. My jaw dropped a few times at how much better these batteries are than I expected.
formula-hybrid.org/wp-content/uploads/A123_AMP20_battery_Design_guide.pdf
And, yes I hope to never need to replace any fuses anywhere.
You need to add DC breakers or fuses on the DC sides. 12Kwh less the inverter effeciency
Where are you referring to? There are fuses on each battery string and between the inverter and battery busbar. Yea, it ends up being just shy of 12kwh of actual available energy out of the inverter. Upgrades are in the works! Thanks for watching!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 The inverter should be isolated with a DC disconnect close to the inverter. This is in addition to the fuses your are using with the batteries. This isolation will eliminate any arcing if and when the capacitors are charged or discharged when the batteries are being connected, cables being connected or any fuse is being replaced. The caps can also give you quite a zap if you are no paying attention.
Makes sense. Thanks for sharing!
MeritSun ! ?
Could you share the BMS app? I was never able to find the apk
Ill try tonight. What is your email address?
The supposed 320A rating is probably a 15-second surge rating. Chinese suppliers are _famous_ for that particular lie on BMSs.
That seems totally plausible. I trust these BMS's to about 60 amps. I don't think this system has seen more than about 30 amps at the inverter so these BMS's are not even struggling lol. Project overkill was such an appropriate name. Thanks for watching!
Do you have a link to the BMSs?
You bet.
US $53.12 24%OFF | Smart 7S ~ 20S ANT Lifepo4 li-ion Lipo LTO Battery Protection Board BMS 400A 300A 100A 80A Bluetooth APP 10S 13S 14S 16S Balance
a.aliexpress.com/_mtsXa9L
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Did you get the 300a one? Seems expensive and like they would all have the same cables.
I bought the 320 amp version. Mine came with 4 12 gauge wires on both sides. I dont think the smaller ones have quite as many wires but I could be wrong. I went with the buy once, cry once mentality and so far they have been working very well. Overall these are very cheap modules compared to batrium or something similar.
Why are you adding power to red and black wires to turn on the bms? There ia supposed to be a momentary switch on them. All you have to do is touch them together. 2 one second touches to turn on and one 10 second touch to turn off.
I didn't know that you could turn them on that way. I was just following the instructions provided/listed on the BMS. Thanks for the heads up!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 maybe its different then mine.
Would you give it a try for me? I have some like the ones you have as well that I havent hooked up yet but the 5 that I have hooked all turned on and off the way I described
I would, but all of my wires are soldered together and installed already. If I get a new come down the road I will give it a shot. Yours may be a different style, I have seen a lot of the "ANT-BMS's" turned on with a lithium battery
Any help with the App I’m am to get please !
Do you have an email address I can send it to?
Looks like a 2s 5p. I don't see how you 7s with 10 batteries.
Each of the batteries have 7 cells in series. So its actually 14S 5P if you break it down to the individual cell level.
Thats why I needed a 14S BMS for each 2S string.