I have been using this knot for years, I have never seen it tied this way. Just goes to show, we cannot know it all, there's always room to learn. I use this knot to hold my fenders to the side of my boat. When the fenders bang and bounce, this knot doesn't untie.
I've not read all the comments but wanted to mention that it must be pointed out that when using a girth hitch, the prusik loop can be completely removed from the carabiner without opening the gate. I know it was not recommended anyway....but using a girth hitch on a 'biner can be dangerous.
Honestly I didn't realize and I have recently been using a girth hitch on the biner for my personal anchor to keep it more tidy. A few days ago I was reaching for it to find the biner disconnected from the sling, luckily it wasn't a dangerous situation and nothing happened but I'm never doing that again
It could come of a ring of the ring was only attached to the girth knot, but surely the carabineer will be attached to something else as well, which will prevent that.
For all you well intentioned viewers: if you like it use it; if you don't... well, then don't use it. Or use it on your split key ring; carabiner w/ keys, etc. No knot is meant to be a knot for every occasion or to suit everyone. Always someone to cry why it won't fit their application. Example for those of you on the "harder to convince side"--I can tie a tent ridge line maybe around 10 different (more or less) ways. They all work. Some a little better or worse. Tomorrow, we will study colors.
The ones who cry are just either pissed that they hadent figured that out themselves ,or they cant even tie their shoes and their jealous lmao lol just saying .. I like the video and the info it gave me ...
Unless the carabiner is already attached to something else, both the girth hitch and the bull hitch can be tied (and untied) without opening the carabiner. In other words, they can both be tied by passing the bight through and back down around a ring. For the bull hitch, you have to add a twist on the bight after passing it through the ring.
Yeah, he showed us how to tie the bull hitch if you don't have full access to the ends of the rope or your rope is very long. A bull hitch is just a girth hitch with a twist (pull horizontal portion of rope at bottom of ears out to get slack, grab and rotate 180 degrees to form a loop, and then pass end of loop through it).
Personally for the prusik on my leg loop that I use as a rappel back up I use a "roofers knot" which is a half fisherman and bowline on the other end. saves weight with only a single line, never comes off my leg loop so it can't be dropped and is easy to add and take from the line. For the foot loop prusik on the back of harness it is simple loop that I step in and clip through this stuff seems like over kill since I use that prussik once a decade at most. Still interesting video I would be concerned about one users comments below that it can( if unattend) work itself free of the biner, just a concern. Good video though with clear explanations.
While this looks like a reasonable solution to lock a carabiner in place, it is a knot in the line and will reduce the breaking strength of the cord being used. However, if the prusik loop is not attached to an anchor but instead to a line as a typical prusik grab, the load would probably not be enough to be an issue. The prusik grip on a line would slide before the cord would break. Consider this, I agree that a side loaded carabiner is not ideal, but it is not a point of imminent failure. While strength is reduced, depending on the carabiner, there is still a workable (minor axis) load rating…and in some cases that can be considerable. Don’t get me wrong, I am not advocating that carabiners should be side loaded, or that side loading should not be avoided, instead, the impact needs to be understood for the equipment in use. That minor axis load rating may be stronger than the line, webbing or prusik cord, the carabiner is tied to with knots….
Thank you! Will be using this with some hammock gear this summer. Always liked the ease of the first knot but didn't like that it had movement. Now I know how to fix that! ATB, Bill
Well, from what I learnt I think you potentially reduce the breaking load by using a knot. In this case I think most cross-loaded karabiners will have a higher breaking load then a knotet prusik-sling, so think its safer not ot knot here. Also when using a friction know you increase the chance of the knot grasping to the opening mechanism of the carabiner and opening it. Interesting knot you*re showing and the discussion is legit! Nevertheless I have a different position here. Cheers
Great looking hitch but at what cost to rope strength? The normal prusik maintains 100% plus of the thinner prusik rope strength because of the doubled nature of the loop (tied with a double-fisherman) but if you tie a tightly bound hitch over the radius of the carabiner you’ll reduce the prusik loops strength by almost half.. choose your trade off wisely!
Great explanation of the knot tying process. Isn't the breaking strain of Prussik cord lower than a cross loaded karabiner? And when you the a knot in a rope you lower the strength of the rope further still. For example the comparative strength of a double figure 8 vs. Bowline. (Both receiving appropriate stopper knots.) Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
looking for a quick release knot where its tight and secure if you pull the main line but releases if you pull the tag and one i can quickly tie back to the prusik
Another advantage is that it makes the prussic more drop proof as a larks foot could unloop (un-“ring hitch”) itself if left dangling. My preference though is to use a pile hitch. It’s completely drop proof, quicker to tie and i IMAGINE has better loading characteristics.k x
Its a pretty knot. But in 25 years of climbing I have never needed it or seen it used. Probably because prussiks are generally used for body-weight only, and are always backed up. So the problem of cross loading the does nor really exist in normal climbing.
Yeah i was thinking similar (LOL-just add another 20 plus year to your 25 years; OMG am I that old??) but seriously, It was interesting to see the test results of static loading from "how not to high line" on girth hitches etc. But yeah I too have never ever used this knot for climbing with prusik knots- although I have only used ascenders because the climbing has never been over 800ft so no suer concerned with weight and or the use of ascenders in srt caving. Bt it is cool knot i will now take on board and remember.
My Mammut 6mm accessory cord is rated to 7.5Kn and my carabiner to 9Kn when cross-loaded. Does it then make sense for me to not tie and additional knots/hitches because I don't want to weaken the cord?
just use the clove hitch!! in the mountains KISS is very important: you've been climbing all day ,you are very tired, you're hands are hurting, maybe a storm is aproaching and you just want to get the down as fast as possible is not the best moment to try a new fancy hitch, just stick to the ones you know to tie with your eyes closed like the clove hitch.
@@Srealdan not really, the clove hitch is the one used by all climbers, mountain guides, rescuers, etc. Is not about being lazy is about not complicating was is simple and works
Thanks for another very interesting video! Wondering if you know what percentage a Bull Hitch has on the break strength of the prusik? Tried to google it but not finding it
Thank you, I've been hammock camping for years, but just bought carabiners to make the job of setting up and taking down the hammock much faster. Does the type of rope matter with this? ie, will this knot greatly reduce the capacity of a 1600lb Amsteel-blue?
Take this with a grain of salt, but there shouldn't be any knot as far as I know which degrades the material strength. Also.. for a hammock, unless you're setting weight records, shouldn't matter anyway.
Any knot is going to reduce the strength of your rope. a knot introduces a point where there are stresses on the rope beyond the simple tension on it. however, most knots shouldnt be by so much that a 1600 pound (around 800 kg, right?) rope is going to give you cause for concern
I don't know about the second knot but one of the problems with the girth hitch, at least in rope rescue, is that at the hitch a considerable amount of stress is placed on the rope potentially causing failure under high load situations like using it as a belay of a system. As single person climbing it may not be a problem but for anchoring systems it may be better to avoid.
There's a much easier way to tie this on a short line. Make a girth hitch and then pull slack in the part of the rope crossing the doubled line (the base of your two ears) and twist it 180 degrees to form a loop then fold that loop over and pull the far end of the rope through. It's a just a girth hitch with a twist and is not backpack and jacket makers put zipper pulls on so they don't fall off. It's easy to see this if you tie it as shown and then leave it on the carabiner and figure out how to untie it in that state.
Is the carabiner that you are using made of stainless steel, or an aluminum alloy? I am having trouble finding stainless steel carabiners. Even though they are heavier, I prefer them.
jdc31947 wesspur has lots of steel carabiners, they are definitely not worth the extra weight though, unless your rigging thousands of pounds. Get a double or triple locking model
Yep. Clove hitch is my choice. It's a darn tight hitch. Grabs that carabiner like a mother and is much safer than the bull hitch as it's not slicing it's own neck.
Until you fall on it from just around the next bit of gear and you have so little rope in the system that there is no stretch/shock absorbtion. It basically radically increases fall factor and your gear pops. If you're worried about your draw crossloading in a fall then use a slipknot that will pop open when loaded or an elastic band that will break. 😊 The slipknots are easy to tie one handed and work really well. Thats my favoured approach. They even absorb a tiny bit of energy when they pop. 😁
What about a "cat's paw" knot? From the testing that I've seen on another channel, it appears that a good quality sewn eye is stronger than any of the various knots or splices.
Surely even cross loaded on the gate the carabiner is more than strong enough for any reasonable load applied to the prusik. Or am I just not being imaginative enough?
@@Burritosarebetterthantacos im not the subject of this topic. I just asked if u could give an example of said "emergency" and all u can do is bash me. So are u avoiding an answer cause u dont have one? Or do u just post random shit that sounds good but u have no experience in? Just wondering.
Nice knot, and definitely has its uses but not really necessary for a prusik. The adverage minor axis strength of a carabiner is 10Kn, the adverage breaking strength of a prusik knot made from 6mm nylon is 10.5Kn. There is minimal strength gain, and I can't imagine what someone would have to do to achieve those forces on a prusik. I'd much prefer just clip that loop and achieve the task quickly and simply
PLEASE do NOT use the second knot shown in this video. I haven't figured out if the same goes for the "best" know shown in the end, however the second knot ( 1:06 ) has potential of coming undone and escape the carabiner. If you are sitting with you rope and carabiner try to slide the "singe" of the knot over the carabiner and you'll see what I mean.
Bro, if you've got something else clipped into the carabiner, it's not coming off. That only applies if you're storing the carabiners on your kit with girth hitches, which is more work than it's worth since you could just, y'know, clip them onto stuff. This is to prevent loading your carabiner in a direction that could break it. If your carabiner is loaded, you have two closed loops on it, which blocks the locking bar from passing over the hardware. You're right, it's called a hitch not a knot for a reason, but it's perfectly fine for this use. To get over complicated, the girth hitch is a middle ground between all three of these options when it comes to strength in tension and shock. If the load is constant, no knot or hitch should be used as each knot creates a stress point on the rope. If you're just climbing, both the girth and bull hitches are perfectly satisfactory as long as your hardware and rope have enough strength to take a fall with a reliable safety factor.
@@steamingspud If it comes off the carabiner and you're using the prusik for body weight, best case scenario it's going to transfer all weight to the other sling, bypassing your carabiner and possibly damaging your slings with friction or sliding to a point beyond your control. Why on earth would you want to tie a knot that can catastrophically fail if it twists in the wrong way when just clipping the prusik directly is safer?
The problem I see with this is if you don't get the strands even when you're hanging off a rope, though it's probably an easy fix and the prusik rope itself is pretty strong hey? So would that be an issue?
What’s not to like about an upgrade. You saved me a lot of brain power. Thank you, sir.
You did a Great Job with your instructions, lots of patience..now, if only I can remember how to do this when I need it!
Thanks for the clear illustration & explanation.
I have been using this knot for years, I have never seen it tied this way. Just goes to show, we cannot know it all, there's always room to learn.
I use this knot to hold my fenders to the side of my boat. When the fenders bang and bounce, this knot doesn't untie.
This is such an ingenious knot!!! Thank you so much for such a great video!!!!!
I really love how your thumbs are covering the most most crucial part of the process.
I like it. Very concise. You give time to make a mental picture. And process your speech and the visual together.
That is one tight Hitch! I like it.
Nice demonstration
Excellent stuff! Girth Hitch aka Larks Head and Bull Hitch aka Piwich Knot
Your the goat. Needed to know for my boat to self unload and load from the trailer.
Search for truckers hitch
Its guys like you that just makes me wanna learn all the knots. It's actually works of art 👍
I love this knot. It tightens up very well on carabiners. Perfect job. Thanks!
I love this "twist" on that knot
Dirving bag
Ah dude I absolutely love you - you just solved two major problems for me in 25s.
Awesome. That’s all knots are. Experimenting variations until you find a gem.
Nice video man. And you are one of the few out there that don't say "proo-sik" which is super annoying! haha thanks
Great video very clear thanks!
I've not read all the comments but wanted to mention that it must be pointed out that when using a girth hitch, the prusik loop can be completely removed from the carabiner without opening the gate. I know it was not recommended anyway....but using a girth hitch on a 'biner can be dangerous.
Honestly I didn't realize and I have recently been using a girth hitch on the biner for my personal anchor to keep it more tidy. A few days ago I was reaching for it to find the biner disconnected from the sling, luckily it wasn't a dangerous situation and nothing happened but I'm never doing that again
Thanks for your support
Thanks so much for your help and expertise! 🙂
Very interesting information. It never hurts to learn better techniques. Thanks, my friend.
Great stuff. I really appreciate the logical analysis.
Always knew this as a locking larkshead 👍
That's pretty slick !
Good stuff man! New to climbing and got knots on the brain
thanks you explain knots so well
nicely done. love the knot and the reason for using it.
Thanks, Simple Instructions. The Girth Knot can also Work Itself Loose Enough to Completely Come Off, (Especially with Rings).
And just how is that going to happen on the prussic loop?
It could come of a ring of the ring was only attached to the girth knot, but surely the carabineer will be attached to something else as well, which will prevent that.
Very nice!
For all you well intentioned viewers: if you like it use it; if you don't... well, then don't use it. Or use it on your split key ring; carabiner w/ keys, etc. No knot is meant to be a knot for every occasion or to suit everyone. Always someone to cry why it won't fit their application. Example for those of you on the "harder to convince side"--I can tie a tent ridge line maybe around 10 different (more or less) ways. They all work. Some a little better or worse. Tomorrow, we will study colors.
The ones who cry are just either pissed that they hadent figured that out themselves ,or they cant even tie their shoes and their jealous lmao lol just saying .. I like the video and the info it gave me ...
Lol
Unless the carabiner is already attached to something else, both the girth hitch and the bull hitch can be tied (and untied) without opening the carabiner. In other words, they can both be tied by passing the bight through and back down around a ring. For the bull hitch, you have to add a twist on the bight after passing it through the ring.
Yeah, he showed us how to tie the bull hitch if you don't have full access to the ends of the rope or your rope is very long. A bull hitch is just a girth hitch with a twist (pull horizontal portion of rope at bottom of ears out to get slack, grab and rotate 180 degrees to form a loop, and then pass end of loop through it).
Personally for the prusik on my leg loop that I use as a rappel back up I use a "roofers knot" which is a half fisherman and bowline on the other end. saves weight with only a single line, never comes off my leg loop so it can't be dropped and is easy to add and take from the line. For the foot loop prusik on the back of harness it is simple loop that I step in and clip through this stuff seems like over kill since I use that prussik once a decade at most. Still interesting video I would be concerned about one users comments below that it can( if unattend) work itself free of the biner, just a concern. Good video though with clear explanations.
While this looks like a reasonable solution to lock a carabiner in place, it is a knot in the line and will reduce the breaking strength of the cord being used. However, if the prusik loop is not attached to an anchor but instead to a line as a typical prusik grab, the load would probably not be enough to be an issue. The prusik grip on a line would slide before the cord would break. Consider this, I agree that a side loaded carabiner is not ideal, but it is not a point of imminent failure. While strength is reduced, depending on the carabiner, there is still a workable (minor axis) load rating…and in some cases that can be considerable. Don’t get me wrong, I am not advocating that carabiners should be side loaded, or that side loading should not be avoided, instead, the impact needs to be understood for the equipment in use. That minor axis load rating may be stronger than the line, webbing or prusik cord, the carabiner is tied to with knots….
Definitley keeping this in the toolbox. Alot of my sewn loop Prussiks don't have enough to do this knot effieciently, unfortunatley.
Sub-optimally !! I LIKE that word ! 😃
And really like this hitch too . Really safe. Thanks
Yup. I paused and smashed the like button the second I heard "suboptimally". I would totally be his wingman.
Well they would be the best at it. English comes from England.
Vraiment excellent. Bravo
Really handy
Very good thanks.
Useful and easy
You explain really well - great video
Thank you I’ve been wanting to know this but not sure how to find it. How to tie into a carabiner I suppose.
wow. amazing
Thank you! Will be using this with some hammock gear this summer. Always liked the ease of the first knot but didn't like that it had movement. Now I know how to fix that! ATB, Bill
great channel and efficient presentation thank you so much please make more..
Thank you .
Well, from what I learnt I think you potentially reduce the breaking load by using a knot. In this case I think most cross-loaded karabiners will have a higher breaking load then a knotet prusik-sling, so think its safer not ot knot here.
Also when using a friction know you increase the chance of the knot grasping to the opening mechanism of the carabiner and opening it.
Interesting knot you*re showing and the discussion is legit! Nevertheless I have a different position here.
Cheers
Great looking hitch but at what cost to rope strength? The normal prusik maintains 100% plus of the thinner prusik rope strength because of the doubled nature of the loop (tied with a double-fisherman) but if you tie a tightly bound hitch over the radius of the carabiner you’ll reduce the prusik loops strength by almost half.. choose your trade off wisely!
Great explanation of the knot tying process.
Isn't the breaking strain of Prussik cord lower than a cross loaded karabiner?
And when you the a knot in a rope you lower the strength of the rope further still. For example the comparative strength of a double figure 8 vs. Bowline. (Both receiving appropriate stopper knots.)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Nice and a good idea, but does this compromise the strength of the rope?
looking for a quick release knot where its tight and secure if you pull the main line but releases if you pull the tag and one i can quickly tie back to the prusik
that was well explained .
Thanks
That's a good tip, thanks for posting it.
Thao tác nhanh gọn dứt khoát. Nút thắt an toàn và đẹp.
Another advantage is that it makes the prussic more drop proof as a larks foot could unloop (un-“ring hitch”) itself if left dangling.
My preference though is to use a pile hitch. It’s completely drop proof, quicker to tie and i IMAGINE has better loading characteristics.k x
I think that a rope attached to another rope or an object is called a hitch. Love the Prusik construction!!!
Really nice, thanks!
Cheers Mate!
Its a pretty knot. But in 25 years of climbing I have never needed it or seen it used. Probably because prussiks are generally used for body-weight only, and are always backed up. So the problem of cross loading the does nor really exist in normal climbing.
Yeah i was thinking similar (LOL-just add another 20 plus year to your 25 years; OMG am I that old??) but seriously, It was interesting to see the test results of static loading from "how not to high line" on girth hitches etc. But yeah I too have never ever used this knot for climbing with prusik knots- although I have only used ascenders because the climbing has never been over 800ft so no suer concerned with weight and or the use of ascenders in srt caving. Bt it is cool knot i will now take on board and remember.
Enough said. Wnt waste my time.
My Mammut 6mm accessory cord is rated to 7.5Kn and my carabiner to 9Kn when cross-loaded. Does it then make sense for me to not tie and additional knots/hitches because I don't want to weaken the cord?
Martyn Schwodler five knots won’t weaken it more than 1. I don’t climb on anything below 12kn myself, and usually more like 18kn
Just use a clove hitch. Easier and can do it one-handed. Just like the bull hitch, the clove hitch is secure once it's been loaded.
Well the bull hitch is better cos the clove hitch is the weakest out of all of them
@@Srealdan Weak how? What's the safety factor with the clove hitch tie in point with a typical climbing line?
thank you very much! easy to do and remember
very nice
With non-dynamic rope you double the strength with your two loops. Thank you...Mplsfire
gracias por el video. un nudo muy practico y seguro
just use the clove hitch!! in the mountains KISS is very important: you've been climbing all day ,you are very tired, you're hands are hurting, maybe a storm is aproaching and you just want to get the down as fast as possible is not the best moment to try a new fancy hitch, just stick to the ones you know to tie with your eyes closed like the clove hitch.
That's for people that are lazy and dont want to learn new knots its better if you know more
@@Srealdan not really, the clove hitch is the one used by all climbers, mountain guides, rescuers, etc. Is not about being lazy is about not complicating was is simple and works
@@luis.borges Well if it works it works
Or just don’t tie it at all! This knot adds no value and eats up cord and time.
Thanks for another very interesting video! Wondering if you know what percentage a Bull Hitch has on the break strength of the prusik? Tried to google it but not finding it
Thank you, I've been hammock camping for years, but just bought carabiners to make the job of setting up and taking down the hammock much faster.
Does the type of rope matter with this? ie, will this knot greatly reduce the capacity of a 1600lb Amsteel-blue?
Take this with a grain of salt, but there shouldn't be any knot as far as I know which degrades the material strength. Also.. for a hammock, unless you're setting weight records, shouldn't matter anyway.
Any knot is going to reduce the strength of your rope. a knot introduces a point where there are stresses on the rope beyond the simple tension on it. however, most knots shouldnt be by so much that a 1600 pound (around 800 kg, right?) rope is going to give you cause for concern
what wrong with a clove hitch ? - will it loosen up using stiff cord ?
I feel like a clove hitch is actually better because it is stronger than the girth hitch.
It may put pressure onto the rope where it crosses the loops...looks to me like this hitch spreads the strain out.
Constrictor knot ftw
Rob Stone he didnt make à proper clove hitch.
He wasnt trying to make a clove hitch for his demo....did you see the title which included the name of the knot?
I don't know about the second knot but one of the problems with the girth hitch, at least in rope rescue, is that at the hitch a considerable amount of stress is placed on the rope potentially causing failure under high load situations like using it as a belay of a system. As single person climbing it may not be a problem but for anchoring systems it may be better to avoid.
It would b nice if gave a demonstration of short rappel down a wall with it
But you do a great job though.
very good !
There's a much easier way to tie this on a short line. Make a girth hitch and then pull slack in the part of the rope crossing the doubled line (the base of your two ears) and twist it 180 degrees to form a loop then fold that loop over and pull the far end of the rope through. It's a just a girth hitch with a twist and is not backpack and jacket makers put zipper pulls on so they don't fall off. It's easy to see this if you tie it as shown and then leave it on the carabiner and figure out how to untie it in that state.
Most climbers use a clove hitch. pretty secure and quicker to tie and adjust (not sure the Bull Hitch is very adjustable)
Is the carabiner that you are using made of stainless steel, or an aluminum alloy?
I am having trouble finding stainless steel carabiners. Even though they are heavier, I prefer them.
jdc31947 wesspur has lots of steel carabiners, they are definitely not worth the extra weight though, unless your rigging thousands of pounds. Get a double or triple locking model
Yep. Clove hitch is my choice. It's a darn tight hitch. Grabs that carabiner like a mother and is much safer than the bull hitch as it's not slicing it's own neck.
thanks well explained!
great! Thank you!
Is there a reason you couldn't use a clove hitch in this application?
It’d be a bitch to undo.....! 🤨
nice, does the clove hitch is not better in this case?
Whats it used for?
Another good use would be on extended QuickDraws
Until you fall on it from just around the next bit of gear and you have so little rope in the system that there is no stretch/shock absorbtion. It basically radically increases fall factor and your gear pops.
If you're worried about your draw crossloading in a fall then use a slipknot that will pop open when loaded or an elastic band that will break. 😊
The slipknots are easy to tie one handed and work really well. Thats my favoured approach. They even absorb a tiny bit of energy when they pop. 😁
"I like you all" what an unusual thing to say at the end. But thanks :)
I appreciate you.
UA-cam was "Unusual" in the beginning lol
"you are acceptable"
Thanks.
What about a "cat's paw" knot?
From the testing that I've seen on another channel, it appears that a good quality sewn eye is stronger than any of the various knots or splices.
takes longer to set up but I guess it is ok too.
Spice World!!
Surely even cross loaded on the gate the carabiner is more than strong enough for any reasonable load applied to the prusik. Or am I just not being imaginative enough?
Knot poetry...!
When the Prof says “ I think that this is the BEST way” , ya better believe it !
🤓
I wish UA-cam was around when I was a BM striker. Endless hours of sitting around with a line and a BM 3&2, could've been avoided. LOL
The first knot is also known as the cow hitch, or the lark's head.
We call it girth hitch
I thought it was a Larks Head.
I use in line clove hitch
Clove can be tied easily with one hand in an emergency.
Can you give an example of an emergency where u use one hand?
@@southern_merican Can you give me an example of an emergency where you have used two?
@@Burritosarebetterthantacos i didnt ask for a question. So clearly u have nothing.
@@southern_merican I asked a simple question. Have you ever used a prussic in an emergency situation even once in your entire life?
@@Burritosarebetterthantacos im not the subject of this topic. I just asked if u could give an example of said "emergency" and all u can do is bash me. So are u avoiding an answer cause u dont have one? Or do u just post random shit that sounds good but u have no experience in? Just wondering.
Twist my cord too much but definitely good to know it
Nice one. Thank you :)
Nice knot, and definitely has its uses but not really necessary for a prusik.
The adverage minor axis strength of a carabiner is 10Kn, the adverage breaking strength of a prusik knot made from 6mm nylon is 10.5Kn. There is minimal strength gain, and I can't imagine what someone would have to do to achieve those forces on a prusik. I'd much prefer just clip that loop and achieve the task quickly and simply
I like everyone
Good
PLEASE do NOT use the second knot shown in this video. I haven't figured out if the same goes for the "best" know shown in the end, however the second knot ( 1:06 ) has potential of coming undone and escape the carabiner. If you are sitting with you rope and carabiner try to slide the "singe" of the knot over the carabiner and you'll see what I mean.
Bro, if you've got something else clipped into the carabiner, it's not coming off. That only applies if you're storing the carabiners on your kit with girth hitches, which is more work than it's worth since you could just, y'know, clip them onto stuff.
This is to prevent loading your carabiner in a direction that could break it. If your carabiner is loaded, you have two closed loops on it, which blocks the locking bar from passing over the hardware. You're right, it's called a hitch not a knot for a reason, but it's perfectly fine for this use.
To get over complicated, the girth hitch is a middle ground between all three of these options when it comes to strength in tension and shock. If the load is constant, no knot or hitch should be used as each knot creates a stress point on the rope. If you're just climbing, both the girth and bull hitches are perfectly satisfactory as long as your hardware and rope have enough strength to take a fall with a reliable safety factor.
Casper Jonathan is
@@steamingspud If it comes off the carabiner and you're using the prusik for body weight, best case scenario it's going to transfer all weight to the other sling, bypassing your carabiner and possibly damaging your slings with friction or sliding to a point beyond your control. Why on earth would you want to tie a knot that can catastrophically fail if it twists in the wrong way when just clipping the prusik directly is safer?
The third knot can do the same thing, it just needs to fold once, allow the twist to pass out of the knot, and you're left with knot number two again.
The problem I see with this is if you don't get the strands even when you're hanging off a rope, though it's probably an easy fix and the prusik rope itself is pretty strong hey? So would that be an issue?
ok so what use is it?