Bro, I watched all your electrical videos, then wired my house from the service-drop onward. Passed inspection on the first try, thanks to your insights. Now here I am doin' the plumbing at another site and I'm learning the skillset from YOU, yet again. I'll take it. I'm a Gen X guy bein' taught by a guy half my age. Ain't no shame in none o' that. I really appreciates your dedication to clarity and bein' thorough.
I hooked up mine on the basement for my washer about 5 years ago. I ran into this video again. I forgot to thank you for this video. Have a great week.
The trap is located too close to the drain T in the wall and is creating an "s" trap configuration. By code, the p-trap has to be distant from the drain-t by double the width of the pipe diameter. In this case, since you are using 2" pipe, there has to be 4" between the drain-t and the p-trap. The reason for this is that an "s" trap is susceptible to siphoning that can suck the standing water out of the trap allowing sewer gas to enter the house. This is also why washing machine boxes have become so popular as you can build the trap and all the piping inside the wall where you don't have to worry about getting in the way of the appliances and the p-trap can be integrated into the permanent piping.
Does 4" between the drain T and the the p-trap mean 4" between the p-trap and the sanitary tee fitting in the wall? - or does it mean 4" between the p-trap and the end of the pipe coming out of the wall from the sanitary tee?
I bought a house and went down to the basement . I always had the washers draining into utility sinks in the basement and in this house for the first time I saw a stand pipe and no utility sink so here I am looking at your video for info, and it was very good. Thanks.
Your videos are super helpful. between this and your electrical videos it's made my time as a first time homeowner super easy. Please keep making content, it genuinely saves me a TON of time and money.
This was very good thank you very much I watched it from a web browser and there's no way to give you a thumbs up. I finally figure out I had to create and use a UA-cam app to give you a thumbs up.
Love the video and page thank you. Son just purchased a home and was wondering he is having a leak I don’t see any purple on pipe. If they used clear and I need to take apart is it hard to take these apart without damaging it? Also forgive me I don’t know right wording yet
nice work, as always. Thanks. You could have rotated your santee 90 degrees to put it and the p-trap (fully glued) in the wall, then put a 45 degree and stop on the top of the standpipe to go out the wall. Cleaner and takes up less space against the wall...
You could have leveled before applying glue and just put a small mark on both parts. Then when you glue it in just line up the marks and you be level. Or if you dont want to leave a mark just put a piece of painters tape on both pieces and put your mark on the tape.
Ben you are really good at making videos on every aspect as well as very knowledgeable to be so young. I wish all videos were as such. They could and should take a lesson from you. Well done. Thank you
Good video. I'm watching this to learn how a washer drain instalation should look. Theres an apartment someone I know moved into and ever since the washer was installed theirs sewage smell filling the house.
The p-trap may be being flushed empty. Not tall enough and the pipe may fill & overflow, too tall and the hydrostatic head of water may flush the trap.
Maybe consider in future PVC work using Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue. No primer needed unless per local code. You did the cleanest job I've ever seen with the drippy a$$ primer, but the Christy' is a one shot deal. Just my 2 cents worth....
My problem is the only place I could put my washer and dryer was in a space under what was the back porch converted into the kitchen around 1950 and there was no basement under it, I dug it all out by hand, put in footings, block wall and concrete floor, but it's lower than the basement floor on the other side of the foot thick foundation wall where all the plumbing is. There's an opening in the block wall above the concrete foundation and at the time I didn't think the washer drain could go up 5 feet, over a foot and down, so I had to route a drain pipe around the long way. The alternative back when I did it was boring a 2" hole thru 12" of solid concrete lower than the opening to run the pipe thru and I wasnt up to doing that! I think though I am going to put a standpipe on the plumbiong side of the wall and run the washer hose over and down thru the opening. We dont worry much about code here in rural Iowa, there's no code guy going door to door checking your drains or anything else, not even when I got the $5 permit to add a room on the house, there was no inspector or anything.
Good video....I’m just a DIY guy, but I’ve never primed so carefully or that much....... For me, just a quick sandpaper over surfaces to join, quick prime, quick glue, then push and hold 20 seconds so it doesn’t push itself off. Did 180ft deep of well pump pipe, then 100ft of pressured pipe into house, no issues yet. I may just be lucky, but think from here on I’ll be a bit more careful. Maybe not 30 swirls but a bit more.
Great tip about the standpipe air gap, I did not know that. I do HVAC/R and when I installed my air conditioning in my house I put the air handler in the basement and ran the condensate pump discharge into the top of the washing machine standpipe. I will pickup an air gap, thanks.
Kenny W An air gap is only required if you have something from the "potable" water system discharging into a receptor like a RO system or water softener drain. If you have something that is isolated from the water system like a condensate pump or clothes washer then no air gap is needed because it isn't a safety hazard. So I think you're probably alright without adding an air gap! Hope that clears it up. :)
FYI washing machines have their own requirements. example: lg needs the sandpipe to be within ~ 30 and 96 inches from the bottom of the washer but with a pedestal this gets a bit tricky. so becare
Hi Benjamin - The drain pipe on the back of my front load washer comes out about 6 inches from the top surface of the appliance. Should the standpipe height be equal to, higher or lower than the drain pipe? I would think that if the standpipe is too much higher than the drainpipe height, some water may fall back in to the washer when the pump stops, no? Thanks for your great videos!!
Could you add this or tie into the clean out drain stack of the house. I have seen a few videos where plumbers remove the clean out and say there is another in the front yard. But I was wondering if you could add it without removing completely
i got way too much glue and primer on my lines yours look so nice and neat I am going to hook up a washer on wall behind bathroom sink do you do a double y for that or what in wall?
The 2 inch PVC adjustable traps I've seen develop small leaks at the threaded connection because they do not have a washer at this connection. They rely on a precise fit between two hard PVC edges and PVC isn't cast to such precison. Does the trap you used have a washer? If not, you may need to seal the threaded connection in some way - perhaps a little silicone caulk?
I've seen a lot of videos where people just slather the primer on loosely. This is the first time I've ever seen someone take so much care to do it neatly. I'd never heard the going around 30x thing before, but it sounds like a good rule of thumb. I like how detailed you are about making things level and keeping the primer from dripping. How high was the trap weir/ from the floor btw? Because in UPC 804.1 it stipulates that the trap must be a minimum of 6" but maximum of 18" from the finished floor. Is that electrical outlet for the washing machine attacked to a GFCI breaker? Because anything within 36" of water splashing is supposed to be GFCI (either at breaker or have a 20amp GFCI outlet). The NEC does not specifically say that washing machine receptacles have to be GFCI, but it does say laundry room receptacles need to be GFCI. Looks like that outlet is a 15amp regular one though. Thanks for the info about the air gap. I don't think my washing machine's hose has an air gap-- but then, my washing machine doesn't even appear to have a P-trap. If it does it's below the floor. I think it may just dump straight under the house. Our plumbing was done DIY by previous house owners who didn't know what they were doing & didn't care. LOL.
If you don't have a bad smell, more likely you have a p-trap. My washer doesn't have one, neither does my other sinks. I'll be using this video for the washer, and other ones for the sinks. For the bathtub and standing shower I'll be buying an inspection camera before I start breaking any floors.
Thanks for the video. I’m in the process of installing a washer box. My condo only has 1 1/2 “ drain pipes except the toilet. To do it in 2” will be costly since I’m on the second floor. I heard you say you can also do this stand pipe in 1 1/2 inch . Do you think a 1 1/ 2 drain will be ok if I buy a front loading washer.? I read they use less water. Any suggestions will be appreciated thanks.
He means that you do not seal the pipe coming out of your washer to the standpipe. There needs to be a (small) gap between the flexible pipe coming out of the washer pump and the PVC pipe it drops into. So, like the washer has a flexible pipe that comes out of it, it pumps water into that... There is probably a c-like, rigid plastic part that holds the flexible pipe, and the flexible pipe ends shortly after that C shape. This flexible pipe goes LOOSELY into the PVC drain. You do not seal it into your house's drainage system. If you do seal the flexible pipe to your drainage system then your washer might pull water/vapors back out of your drainage system, into the washer. This happens because the sealed pipe allows for a vacuum. The drain should be gravity fed.
Looking for problem? Connect washer, refrigerator, ac, everything with motor to GFCI. They will trip constantly. That's why those appliances require separate circuits without GFCI.
@@bobsum1745 that’s 100 % correct, every time washer switches to spin cycle it will trip. They no longer require washer to be GFCI protected to many issues.
Max Wax it doesn’t necessarily needs to be closer to the floor but the stand pipe which is the vertical pipe where the clothes washer discharges also have their minimum and max in its length and those measurements have to be between 18” and 30” and its not to specifically to prevent overflow but it does prevent the bubbles to come back up out of the pipe.
If the down pipe is too short the water can back up and flow out onto the floor. The straighter section is to aid in a smoother flow to get the water moving with less turbulence before the p trap.
With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space below the floor.
Question....I plan on moving my washing machine 10 feet away from the drain and vent situation. Can I do that per code? My idea is moving the standpipe to the new location of the washing machine and then have 10 or so feet of pipe connecting to my drain pipe. If this is okay, do I keep the 10ft pipe level horizontally or do I have to have it at a slow decline? I have been struggling to find an answer on this so am hoping someone here could help
from what i have read horizontal runs should slope between 1/8 and 1/4 inch per foot and not fall more than pipe diameter so 10 foot is pushing it for 2-inch pipe definitely long for 1 1/2 they are all mostly to prevent traps from being sucked dry it would work but might let sewer gases out of trap
FYI ABS pipe should not be primed. That's for PVC. In fact an inspector might not pass you if he sees that purple stain on there. Just get the black ABS adhesive and you're golden.
Bro, I watched all your electrical videos, then wired my house from the service-drop onward. Passed inspection on the first try, thanks to your insights. Now here I am doin' the plumbing at another site and I'm learning the skillset from YOU, yet again. I'll take it. I'm a Gen X guy bein' taught by a guy half my age. Ain't no shame in none o' that. I really appreciates your dedication to clarity and bein' thorough.
I hooked up mine on the basement for my washer about 5 years ago. I ran into this video again. I forgot to thank you for this video. Have a great week.
Really good video...
You obviously know what you’re doing
I wish you would have kept on going with a full plumbing installation of a washer.
Thanks
Your glue joints are textbook! I can't make them that neat to save myself. Thanks for the inspiration.
The trap is located too close to the drain T in the wall and is creating an "s" trap configuration. By code, the p-trap has to be distant from the drain-t by double the width of the pipe diameter. In this case, since you are using 2" pipe, there has to be 4" between the drain-t and the p-trap. The reason for this is that an "s" trap is susceptible to siphoning that can suck the standing water out of the trap allowing sewer gas to enter the house.
This is also why washing machine boxes have become so popular as you can build the trap and all the piping inside the wall where you don't have to worry about getting in the way of the appliances and the p-trap can be integrated into the permanent piping.
Does 4" between the drain T and the the p-trap mean 4" between the p-trap and the sanitary tee fitting in the wall? - or does it mean 4" between the p-trap and the end of the pipe coming out of the wall from the sanitary tee?
Im sure the code varies by state...
I bought a house and went down to the basement . I always had the washers draining into utility sinks in the basement and in this house for the first time I saw a stand pipe and no utility sink so here I am looking at your video for info, and it was very good. Thanks.
Your videos are super helpful. between this and your electrical videos it's made my time as a first time homeowner super easy. Please keep making content, it genuinely saves me a TON of time and money.
This was very good thank you very much I watched it from a web browser and there's no way to give you a thumbs up. I finally figure out I had to create and use a UA-cam app to give you a thumbs up.
Love the video and page thank you. Son just purchased a home and was wondering he is having a leak I don’t see any purple on pipe. If they used clear and I need to take apart is it hard to take these apart without damaging it? Also forgive me I don’t know right wording yet
Just want to say thank you for the "how to" and "why" videos you provide for us. Thank you very much.
nice work, as always. Thanks. You could have rotated your santee 90 degrees to put it and the p-trap (fully glued) in the wall, then put a 45 degree and stop on the top of the standpipe to go out the wall. Cleaner and takes up less space against the wall...
You could have leveled before applying glue and just put a small mark on both parts. Then when you glue it in just line up the marks and you be level. Or if you dont want to leave a mark just put a piece of painters tape on both pieces and put your mark on the tape.
Ben you are really good at making videos on every aspect as well as very knowledgeable to be so young. I wish all videos were as such. They could and should take a lesson from you. Well done. Thank you
Damn. Your. His cheer leader?
Awesome! Thanks so much, I now know what supplies I am looking at for doing an upgrade from my old drain!
Good video. I'm watching this to learn how a washer drain instalation should look. Theres an apartment someone I know moved into and ever since the washer was installed theirs sewage smell filling the house.
here for same reason. guessing it's a missing cover on the top for my instance anyway
The p-trap may be being flushed empty. Not tall enough and the pipe may fill & overflow, too tall and the hydrostatic head of water may flush the trap.
Maybe consider in future PVC work using Christy's Red Hot Blue Glue. No primer needed unless per local code. You did the cleanest job I've ever seen with the drippy a$$ primer, but the Christy' is a one shot deal. Just my 2 cents worth....
Thanks for letting know the 18” to 30” requirement
My problem is the only place I could put my washer and dryer was in a space under what was the back porch converted into the kitchen around 1950 and there was no basement under it, I dug it all out by hand, put in footings, block wall and concrete floor, but it's lower than the basement floor on the other side of the foot thick foundation wall where all the plumbing is. There's an opening in the block wall above the concrete foundation and at the time I didn't think the washer drain could go up 5 feet, over a foot and down, so I had to route a drain pipe around the long way. The alternative back when I did it was boring a 2" hole thru 12" of solid concrete lower than the opening to run the pipe thru and I wasnt up to doing that!
I think though I am going to put a standpipe on the plumbiong side of the wall and run the washer hose over and down thru the opening. We dont worry much about code here in rural Iowa, there's no code guy going door to door checking your drains or anything else, not even when I got the $5 permit to add a room on the house, there was no inspector or anything.
I usually go around 3 times with the primer and never had a leak installing back flow devices and never had a leak. But A+ for effort!
Good video....I’m just a DIY guy, but I’ve never primed so carefully or that much....... For me, just a quick sandpaper over surfaces to join, quick prime, quick glue, then push and hold 20 seconds so it doesn’t push itself off. Did 180ft deep of well pump pipe, then 100ft of pressured pipe into house, no issues yet. I may just be lucky, but think from here on I’ll be a bit more careful. Maybe not 30 swirls but a bit more.
Well done. Thanks.
Wow this is exactly what I have been looking for. You are the only one who had what I needed . Hope I can pull this off. 😊👍🏻🙏🏼
Very nice explanation and demonstration!! Very much appreciated from all of us out here!!!
Great tip about the standpipe air gap, I did not know that. I do HVAC/R and when I installed my air conditioning in my house I put the air handler in the basement and ran the condensate pump discharge into the top of the washing machine standpipe. I will pickup an air gap, thanks.
Kenny W An air gap is only required if you have something from the "potable" water system discharging into a receptor like a RO system or water softener drain. If you have something that is isolated from the water system like a condensate pump or clothes washer then no air gap is needed because it isn't a safety hazard.
So I think you're probably alright without adding an air gap! Hope that clears it up. :)
Got it, thanks that does clear it up.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Do I still need a vent for this set-up, and if so, where and how does it go? Any recommendations for type of vent? Thanks.
That pipe cutter is awesome! I didn’t know they had them that big. Great video as always.!
Great until they shatter your pipe.
Hmm. I think code is standpipe between 18" and 30" from finished floor. P-trap height less than or equal to 12". Love your videos btw
Thanks, it was very instructional. Now I am going to create a disaster when I try to replicate what you have done.
Nice video thank you
Very well explained. Thankyou very much.
Enjoyed your video. How do you accomplish a standup pipe and trap to a drain above the washing machine? Thank you for your assistance.
My worry as well
FYI washing machines have their own requirements. example: lg needs the sandpipe to be within ~ 30 and 96 inches from the bottom of the washer but with a pedestal this gets a bit tricky. so becare
exactly what I needed. thank you!
Hi Benjamin - The drain pipe on the back of my front load washer comes out about 6 inches from the top surface of the appliance. Should the standpipe height be equal to, higher or lower than the drain pipe? I would think that if the standpipe is too much higher than the drainpipe height, some water may fall back in to the washer when the pump stops, no? Thanks for your great videos!!
Could you add this or tie into the clean out drain stack of the house. I have seen a few videos where plumbers remove the clean out and say there is another in the front yard. But I was wondering if you could add it without removing completely
i got way too much glue and primer on my lines yours look so nice and neat I am going to hook up a washer on wall behind bathroom sink do you do a double y for that or what in wall?
I used a 1 1/2 abs pipe and it overflows it doesn’t drain fast enough?
Having the pipe too small will make it overflow? I am having the same problem with mine.
@@Lesberas In my area, the new code is a minimum of 2 inches for washing machine drain pipe.
Same problem here. I’m going to change the pipe to a 2” and I will let you all know if it fixed the overflow.
Thanks! A good video.
The 2 inch PVC adjustable traps I've seen develop small leaks at the threaded connection because they do not have a washer at this connection. They rely on a precise fit between two hard PVC edges and PVC isn't cast to such precison. Does the trap you used have a washer? If not, you may need to seal the threaded connection in some way - perhaps a little silicone caulk?
I've seen a lot of videos where people just slather the primer on loosely. This is the first time I've ever seen someone take so much care to do it neatly. I'd never heard the going around 30x thing before, but it sounds like a good rule of thumb. I like how detailed you are about making things level and keeping the primer from dripping.
How high was the trap weir/ from the floor btw? Because in UPC 804.1 it stipulates that the trap must be a minimum of 6" but maximum of 18" from the finished floor.
Is that electrical outlet for the washing machine attacked to a GFCI breaker? Because anything within 36" of water splashing is supposed to be GFCI (either at breaker or have a 20amp GFCI outlet). The NEC does not specifically say that washing machine receptacles have to be GFCI, but it does say laundry room receptacles need to be GFCI. Looks like that outlet is a 15amp regular one though.
Thanks for the info about the air gap. I don't think my washing machine's hose has an air gap-- but then, my washing machine doesn't even appear to have a P-trap. If it does it's below the floor. I think it may just dump straight under the house. Our plumbing was done DIY by previous house owners who didn't know what they were doing & didn't care. LOL.
If you don't have a bad smell, more likely you have a p-trap. My washer doesn't have one, neither does my other sinks. I'll be using this video for the washer, and other ones for the sinks. For the bathtub and standing shower I'll be buying an inspection camera before I start breaking any floors.
Baller, I'm about to make things happen... fantastic video.. thank you... #MAGA
Great video! Thank you
30 times! I haven’t met a pro that would go around more then 3 times!
You have done a nice job, but god almighty that was the longest primer job I have ever seen.
Thanks for the video. I’m in the process of installing a washer box. My condo only has 1 1/2 “ drain pipes except the toilet. To do it in 2” will be costly since I’m on the second floor. I heard you say you can also do this stand pipe in 1 1/2 inch .
Do you think a 1 1/ 2 drain will be ok if I buy a front loading washer.? I read they use less water. Any suggestions will be appreciated thanks.
Thanks man
Thanks for the video =)
Saves me the cost of a plumber.
no, the one and half pipe isnot passing inspection anymore.
Thank you. I was able to do it all on my own with your instructions..Whats the air gap thing you are referring to to put at the top of the standpipe?
He means that you do not seal the pipe coming out of your washer to the standpipe. There needs to be a (small) gap between the flexible pipe coming out of the washer pump and the PVC pipe it drops into.
So, like the washer has a flexible pipe that comes out of it, it pumps water into that... There is probably a c-like, rigid plastic part that holds the flexible pipe, and the flexible pipe ends shortly after that C shape. This flexible pipe goes LOOSELY into the PVC drain. You do not seal it into your house's drainage system.
If you do seal the flexible pipe to your drainage system then your washer might pull water/vapors back out of your drainage system, into the washer. This happens because the sealed pipe allows for a vacuum. The drain should be gravity fed.
Can it be ABS with a clean-out?
you did good job
Thanks!
Thank you my friend
can you show me what the air adapter is that you mention at the end of the video? i think I'm missing one and sewer gas is escaping from it >.
Very good video, and nice work.
Shouldn't that electrical outlet be a GFI in case of overflow?
Looking for problem? Connect washer, refrigerator, ac, everything with motor to GFCI. They will trip constantly. That's why those appliances require separate circuits without GFCI.
Is most likely protected upstream by another outlet or breaker.
@@bobsum1745 that’s 100 % correct, every time washer switches to spin cycle it will trip. They no longer require washer to be GFCI protected to many issues.
love the work, hate the flexible level. buy a stanley torpedo level.. lol
Hey man, great video. I have a problem with mine, its overflowing, I snake the pipes and everything. Any ideas?
Are you venting properly ? Did you find the problem ?
Do waist water have the pressure to climb to the height of the waist Pipe. Please answer
Se puede conectar el fregadero al desagüe de la lavadora
Where is the machine going, against the wall? What if you wanted to use a laundry box with hot & cold-water supply lines inside the wall?
Great video!
Very nice video, very well explained, but that ptrap seems to be higher than 18” ???
Does the ptrap need to be closer to the floor to prevent over flowing?
The trap needs to be between 6 inches from the floor to a max of 18 inches and that measurement is taken from the floor to the weird of the trap.
joarmape thank you. Of course mine is about 4 ft from the floor. I don’t know why they installed it like that but it was here before me.
Max Wax it doesn’t necessarily needs to be closer to the floor but the stand pipe which is the vertical pipe where the clothes washer discharges also have their minimum and max in its length and those measurements have to be between 18” and 30” and its not to specifically to prevent overflow but it does prevent the bubbles to come back up out of the pipe.
i love your channel
I have that same set up but the water stays in the trap and over flows, never goes all the way out. What am I doin fb wrong?
Dam I didn’t know you had to prime 30 times I do maybe 5 to 10
Does the vent need to go all the way to the roof or is a few feet good enough or flow
I believe the AAV just needs to be above the level of the top of the stand pipe, like when one is needed under a sink.
Is it safe/code to put a drain 3" away from electrical receptacle?
What happens if it's below 18 inches?
If the down pipe is too short the water can back up and flow out onto the floor. The straighter section is to aid in a smoother flow to get the water moving with less turbulence before the p trap.
Futura remodelacion
With the use of an Oatey laundry box, If I were to lower the box so the top of the drain pipe is 28”, could I put the p-trap below the floor? I have a crawl space below the floor.
Ben. Great job but by code there already should have been either a u-trap or a p-trap inside the wall. Did you check for that.?
How about that electrical outlet close to that water drain, lol I hope it’s gfi!
It is a GFCI thankfully. In hindsight a bit more space would have been helpful.
And how many inches the trap from the floor? Thank you
12" minimum
Ahmmm , I was also hoping to see how washing machine drain to that pipe...
I thought I was just needed a floor drain for a washing machine drain...
Your glue joints are great, but you use too much primer. It doesn't need to be grape Kool-aid purple.
Also, inspectors see the dyed cleaner and know the homeowner did the work. Trades use clear.
Question....I plan on moving my washing machine 10 feet away from the drain and vent situation. Can I do that per code? My idea is moving the standpipe to the new location of the washing machine and then have 10 or so feet of pipe connecting to my drain pipe. If this is okay, do I keep the 10ft pipe level horizontally or do I have to have it at a slow decline? I have been struggling to find an answer on this so am hoping someone here could help
from what i have read horizontal runs should slope between 1/8 and 1/4 inch per foot and not fall more than pipe diameter so 10 foot is pushing it for 2-inch pipe definitely long for 1 1/2 they are all mostly to prevent traps from being sucked dry it would work but might let sewer gases out of trap
Code allows maximum 5’ of horizontal piping from vent to fixtures for a 2” pipe.
FYI ABS pipe should not be primed. That's for PVC. In fact an inspector might not pass you if he sees that purple stain on there. Just get the black ABS adhesive and you're golden.
Primer? We just wipe and fit or a wipe with white spirit will do the job,sounds like a money spinner to me.
Great video thanx